Knowing when to intervene with deadly force and when to not.
On May 15, 2021, a Fort Smith, Arkansas, man entered his apartment, procured a loaded hunting rifle and shot a man dead in front of the apartment building. The unnamed shooter (as of this writing) will likely not face criminal charges. Why? Because the shooting was done in defense of his neighbors; the individual who was shot was in the process of trying to kill other apartment dwellers after already killing one person.
Two legal doctrines allow a person to use force in self-defense. The first is when you reasonably believe the lives of others are in immediate danger of death or great bodily harm. This is what allowed the armed citizen to legally kill the perpetrator in the above example. The danger was imminent, and the shooter had amassed the facts and applied these facts, under the circumstances he was in, to legally shoot the individual.
This construct is also necessary with the second legal situation—that being to not only have a reasonable belief innocent lives are being endangered, but also you must be able to “stand in the shoes” of the individual or individuals one was protecting.
Stand In The Shoes
Let’s say you turn the corner to go into your local convenience store and see a subject on the ground, being kicked in the head and screamed at by another. Thinking that a severe, life-threatening beating was occurring, you pull your gun and shoot the person who was assaulting the “victim” on the ground.
Stopping another from suffering this kind of life-threatening assault would, in most jurisdictions, be deemed a legitimate act of use of force to save the life of another. However, if you were in a jurisdiction where you were required to “stand in the shoes” of the “victim,” you might be guilty of murder.
In this example, the apparent innocent victim had just robbed the store and was being confronted by someone who saw the robbery and wanted to prevent the robber’s escape but was using excessive force.
Another example would be if the person you were defending was, in fact, the initial aggressor in the altercation and, unbeknown to you, started the fight. Under these circumstances, you likely won’t get a self-defense jury instruction and be convicted of manslaughter.
So, how do you know?
Well … you don’t.
Think It Through
Let’s go over the thinking processes one should employ when possibly inserting oneself in a situation where you’d be defending another—not yourself.
If the person you’re defending is known to you, perhaps has been accompanied by you before the incident and you know they’re not a felon or first aggressor, then you should be on safe ground to defend them.
An example of this is if you’d been out shopping with your significant other, and as you return the shopping cart to the store, your significant other has been accosted and is either being robbed at knife- or gun-point … or being forced into another car. In this example, you’d be safe to stand in the shoes of the significant other and have reasonable grounds to believe your significant other is in grave, imminent danger. It could also equally apply to a child of yours.
But what if the person or persons you’re defending aren’t known to you? If that’s the case, you really need to have viewed the run-up, to the point where deadly force is warranted.
For example: If you walk into a convenience store and interrupt a robbery in progress, how do you know that, moments before, the clerk hadn’t drawn his own gun or disarmed the alleged suspect? Unless you personally know the clerk, you don’t. You’d be better off getting behind some cover, or at least concealment, and watch. After all, most robberies end without bloodshed, so playing the odds isn’t a bad tactic. If the robbery turns to you, though, then it’s your life in danger and a different analysis is warranted.
If you had been shopping and saw the beginning of the robbery (knowing the robber was in fact the robber), how do you know the gunman doesn’t have a partner watching for anyone like you to get involved?
In the case of a robbery in a store, bank or otherwise, my personal tactic is to get behind cover or leave. Unless I’ve seen bloodshed, then and only then am I likely to get involved. You should be making these decisions ahead of time. Being in the middle of a life-threatening event is a bad time to be making decisions that should’ve been made long before. You’ve decided to arm yourself; with that decision comes the responsibility to not go blindly through life without having studied, trained and practiced until the decision making in circumstances like these won’t be the major issue.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
With the coming of bulkier smokeless powders, the .44 Russian cartridge case proved too small to permit efficient use of full charges of the new propellants. Though originally a blackpowder cartridge, the .44 Special—which is about 0.2-inch longer than the Russian—eliminated this problem and provided more power, while using the same bullets as the older .44 Russian.
This cartridge was introduced about 1907. Both Colt and Smith & Wesson made revolvers in this chambering, and a few Spanish and other European revolvers were also made to handle it. There has been a rebirth of interest in the .44 Special in the past few decades.
.44 Special Hornady projectiles in unfired, cross-sectioned and expanded states.
General Comments
The .44 Smith & Wesson Special is one of the most accurate and powerful big-bore revolver cartridges. However, it was never factory-loaded to its full potential. It was left to the handloader to develop truly effective hunting loads.
Experiments to maximize .44 Special’s big-game hunting potential by men like Elmer Keith, culminated in the .44 Magnum. The .44 S&W Special is still popular for target and field use. Revolvers for the .44 Special aren’t strong enough to handle loads as heavy as those used in Magnum guns. Winchester, Remington, Federal, Black Hills, CorBon, and others load this ammunition.
A new 9mm optics-ready pistol from Poland, the FB Radom VIS-100 M1 is now being imported and will be available later this month.
Developed as the next service pistol for the Polish military, the FB Radom VIS 100 was finalized in 2017 and sold to the Polish government over the following years. Originally called the PR-15 Ragun, it is a fairly typical 9mm double-stack hammer-fired service pistol with a DA/SA trigger and aluminum alloy frame. Now that Poland has seemingly ordered enough of these to fulfill their handgun needs, FB Radom can finally begin focusing on the export market. What that means for us in the U.S. is that a civilian variant will soon be available for purchase as the VIS-100 M1, with the importer Arms Of America promising them to be for sale later this month (July 2022).
The name change is obviously a reference to the Polish FB Vis pistol of WWII fame, but the designs themselves don’t have much in common besides being semi-automatic and 9mm. While it’s a new design, the overall profile and features of the VIS-100 M1 are reminiscent of a SIG P226. Its standard 15-round magazine capacity of 9mm suggests some influence as well. Otherwise, the VIS-100 M1 features a 4.3-inch barrel, fiber optic iron sights and a standard Picatinny rail segment beneath the dust cover. The pistol is also fully ambidextrous thanks to the inclusion of a mag release, thumb safety and slide release on each side, and the slide is milled to be optics-ready as well (the footprint pattern is not currently known).
The product page on Arms Of America’s website suggests that once available, the VIS-100 M1 will be able to be purchased with either a black, Inox or Cobalt Cerakote finish. Spare magazines will also be available in the standard 15-round, compliant 10-round and extended 17-round capacities. Depending on options, the MSRP of the pistol will range from $939 to $1,149. This is the least exciting part about the announcement, as when the VIS-100 M1 was originally teased it was advertised as having a significantly lower price of $739.
For more information, please visit the importer's website at armsofamerica.com.
A muzzle brake is an excellent way to reduce a firearm’s recoil, but it can come with some downsides. Here's what you need to know.
A muzzle brake is a common recoil-reducing accessory available for most modern small arms today. Because they are most commonly found on rifles, we'll focus on these for the buyer’s guide. But be aware that the muzzle device does exist for certain shotguns and handguns as well, despite some differences in design and terminology.
How A Muzzle Brake Works
Overall, how a muzzle brake functions isn't all that complicated. No matter its design, a brake redirects gasses at the muzzle to pull or push the gun much like a thruster. Generally this is in a rearward or sideways direction, counteracting the force of the recoil rearward into the shoulder.
Muzzle Brake Vs. Compensator
Before discussing muzzle brakes in greater detail, it’s important to know what separates them from compensators.
The boring reality of the situation is that it’s far more likely to come down to the marketing of a product rather than the specific way it functions. Companies often name a product a certain way to skirt restrictions or capitalize on market trends.
There is a tremendous amount of overlap between muzzle brakes and compensators, as they both utilize the expanding gas at the muzzle to redirect the gun in a constructive way. Simply put, the primary goal of a muzzle brake is recoil reduction while the primary goal of a compensator is to keep the muzzle level during firing.
Because of this difference, compensators are usually only seen on rifles that are intended to be fired from standing with little support. Compensators don’t do the shooter much good in a supported position, so if you are shooting off a barricade or with a bipod, a muzzle brake would be a better choice.
To make matters more confusing, there are a significant number of products available today that are truly neither a brake nor a compensator specifically but serve as neither and both equally.
Strictly speaking, a compensator is something that serves to reduce muzzle flip. Because of how they are currently made the vast majority of muzzle brakes could be considered to be compensators too.
The reverse is also true, and the result is that the terms have become nearly interchangeable for some individuals despite technical differences between the devices.
What this means for the buyer is that the individual qualities and features of a muzzle device should have a greater influence on your decision than whatever the manufacturer decided to name it. It also means that other aspects of a muzzle brake’s design are worth considering as well.
A substantial number of companies today make quick detach suppressor mounts as muzzle brakes. Companies like Q, SilencerCo and others all offer brake designs that are integral to attaching certain models of their suppressors. Even as standalone products, these usually deliver excellent function.
Muzzle Brakes For Rifles
As mentioned, the primary type of gun that benefits from a muzzle brake is the rifle.
In years past, it was not a usual thing to see a muzzle brake on a low-recoil rifle such as an AR-15. These types of rifles typically came with a simple flash hider, or during the ban years were not threaded at all. A muzzle brake on a rifle is most useful when recoil is too high for the shooter to maintain a proper sight picture in between shots.
In the old days, you would only typically find muzzle brakes mounted on large-caliber or magnum-class rifles. Because of the recoil of these guns, the ability to reduce their kick and gain confidence at long range was paramount.
What spurred brakes popularity on small-caliber semi-auto rifles was the end of the Federal Assault Weapons Ban in 2004. Up to that point, most rifles did not have threaded barrels thanks to the legislation. Today virtually all rifles come from the factory ready to accept a muzzle device regardless of their caliber. Times are changing, for the better.
There are quite literally hundreds of options when it comes to muzzle brakes nowadays. You can easily find one that will suit your specific firearm and shooting needs.
Many are designed for high-volume, rapid-fire competition shooting, and others to enhance precision. Concerning long-range rifles, brakes are favored to aid the shooter in spotting impacts on the target. Likewise, people interested in three-gun competitions often will mount a substantial muzzle brake on their AR to prevent the gun from rising under the recoil of a long string of shots.
Hunters similarly benefit from adding a muzzle brake, as it makes more powerful calibers easier to take to the field. They aren’t just for the recoil-sensitive, as a brake can help to improve your skill across the board and aid in making cleaner kills.
Large-bore rounds like the popular .450 Bushmaster are greatly aided by the addition of a muzzle brake due to it being chambered in light rifles. Under such circumstances, the brake helps its user put more meat on the table.
Muzzle Brake Vs. Flash Hider
While both are quite common, flash hiders are typically seen only on semi-automatic rifles that have minimal recoil, to begin with.
A typical flash hider does not have any function other than simply dissipating the physical flash of burning gas at the muzzle. There is no recoil reduction offered, and as such, it is a relatively uncommon sight on large-bore guns or magnum-class rifles. Because of their limited benefit and generally simpler construction, cheap flash hiders are often used as a placeholder muzzle device until the rifle’s owner decides to go with something else.
A Tapco AK-74-style muzzle brake vs. an AR-15 A2 flash hider.
Large-format pistols and SBRs are especially well served by flash hiders because of their short barrels. These guns are quite concussive as it is, and benefit from something that tames the fireballs they often produce.
Muzzle brakes on short-barreled rifles tend to only increase the concussion and produce a more formidable blast. Because of this, a flash hider may be a better choice for certain short-barreled firearms.
Another reason that one may opt for a flash hider over a muzzle brake is that in many types of shooting disciplines, such as service rifle competitions, only the former is allowed. The common military A2 flash hider is a great example of this, as it is legal in most service rifle and CMP competitions. This is to ensure that no shooter is competing with an unfair advantage through the use of a muzzle brake.
Discussion On Report
Blast is the unfortunate elephant in the room when it comes to any kind of muzzle brake. The energy created during firing has to go somewhere, and as a result, its redirection by a brake is often as unbearable on the ear as recoil is to the shoulder. For this reason, many people decide that mastering recoil makes more sense than risking their hearing.
The increased noise level produced by brakes may also dissuade hunters from using them, as many prefer to keep their wits about them by not wearing hearing protection.
While the benefits of a muzzle brake are many, the discomfort of using one in a field setting is often not worth it. Whether you are considering mounting one on a tactical carbine, a long-range rifle, a shotgun or otherwise, the pros and cons of each scenario must be weighed.
Best Muzzle Brake Buyer’s Guide:
Best AR-15 Muzzle Brake:
Midwest Industries Two Chamber Muzzle Brake
While this two-chamber design may seem simple at first glance, it does more than meets the eye. The Midwest Industries brake may be simple, but its design is incredibly effective at redirecting gasses to mitigate recoil and balance the gun. There’s a video floating around online of a man mag dumping his AR-15 in full-auto with one hand, and this muzzle brake alone was enough to make it seem as if it were locked in a vise.
An interesting side note is this brake’s shape is very reminiscent of an AK-74 muzzle brake, considered by many for a long time to be the most effective standard-issue device of its kind. Midwest Industries make their Two Chamber Brake in a variety of calibers and thread pitches, but the 1/2×28 5.56 version is an excellent way to turn your low-recoiling AR-15 into a no-recoiling AR-15. MSRP: $47.95 // midwestindustriesinc.com
Best AK Muzzle Brake:
Definitive Arms Fighter Brake
This muzzle brake has become a go-to recommendation in many AK circles. It’s simple, effective and extremely lightweight, and it’s less than a quarter-inch longer than a standard AKM slant brake. It also has a 14x1LH thread pitch, meaning it’s ready for any standard AKM-pattern AK, the most common variety on the market. If mounting it on something besides a 7.62x39mm gun, however, know that it’s rated for up to .45 caliber.
Also, while not a true flash hider, the Fighter Brake has “flash regulation” capacities as well, keeping it usable in low-light conditions. Compared to many other muzzle brakes on the market, this is an incredibly balanced, non-concussive design that presents few drawbacks when compared to a standard-configuration AK. MSRP: $39.99 // definitivearms.com
Best Precision Rifle Muzzle Brake:
APA Gen II Little Bastard
For those with powerful, long-range rifles that want some help keeping their sights on target after a shot, the APA Gen II Little Bastard is a big help. Its three-chamber design reduces a good amount of shoulder pain as well. It features 5/8×24 threading and is rated for up to .308 caliber, making it ready to mount on the most common precision rifle models out there.
Another major feature of this muzzle brake is it’s self-timing, meaning that it's easily swapped between rifles without the hassle of properly aligning the ports each time. The Little Bastard has become popular with many competition shooters in recent years as well, but less so with those who shoot next to them. This brake is loud, and prospective buyers should keep that in mind. Besides that it’s an extremely effective solution for long-range shooters. MSRP: $160 // americanprecisionarms.com
Best Suppressor Mount Muzzle Brake:
SilencerCo ASR Muzzle Brake
This three-port muzzle brake is available in a wide variety of different calibers and thread pitches, making it compatible with nearly anything you might want to mount it to. From standard AR-15s to 9mm PCCs to big-bore bolt-actions, this is an effective recoil-reducing option.
The real feature of these brakes, however, is that they are compatible with SilencerCo ASR suppressor mounts. This allows the user to quickly attach and detach one of SilencerCo’s many suppressor options without any tools in the field, increasing the versatility of the weapon. Even if you have no interest in a suppressor, this model is an effective and relatively affordable option that is compatible with a huge number of different guns. MSRP: $64.40-$92.00 // silencerco.com
Best Recoil-Reducing Muzzle Brake:
Precision Armament M4-72
Of all the muzzle brakes on this list, this is the one that best exemplifies both the benefits and drawbacks of devices such as these. The Precision Armament M4-72 is big, heavy and very concussive. It spits flames out the side like a hotrod when it shoots too. This is not a subtle design and both its appearance and effects when firing can be described as having an intimidating presence.
If all you want your muzzle brake to do is mitigate recoil, however, this is likely the most effective model on the list to accomplish it with, as Precision Armament claims that the .223/5.56 version reduces recoil by about 75 percent. MSRP: $89.99-$99.99 // precisionarmament.com
Editor's Note: Adam Borisenko contributed to this article.
Not imported for over seven years, the Zastava M77 .308 AK is now back in the USA and will be available soon.
At SHOT Show 2022, hidden on the back wall of the Zastava Arms USA booth, there was an unassuming AK with black furniture and a larger-than-usual magazine. Many passed by without an extra glance, but others recognized it as the famed Zastava M77 chambered for .308 that was last imported in 2015. The rifle’s presence at the show was cause for excitement, but much to the disappointment of AK aficionados, all the Zastava rep could answer when asked about future imports was “maybe.” Thankfully, however, that maybe is now a yes.
Two days ago, the official Zastava USA Reddit account posted the above photo to the AK subreddit with a bit of extra good news. He claimed that not only is the Zastava M77 now in-country and shipping out to distributors, but he announced an MSRP of $1,479, lower than what most were anticipating. Atlantic Firearms already has a page posted for the Zastava M77 with details and an even lower listed price of $1,373.99.
Officially called the PAP M77 Rifle, it can fire both .308 Winchester and 7.62x51mm NATO and features a 19.7-inch cold-hammer-forged and threaded barrel. It comes with black synthetic furniture with an adjustable stock, has an adjustable gas system and each rifle will ship with a 20-round magazine. If different furniture is desired, however, the Zastava M77 will also be able to accept Yugo-pattern handguards and buttstocks as well as standard AK pistol grips. A side-scope rail can be found on the left of the receiver as well.
An M77 as seen at SHOT 2022, sporting different furniture than the final import.
An official release date is not yet known, and Zastava USA doesn’t even have a product page up for it yet. Despite this, all signs point to its release in the near future, so keep an eye out if you want your own Combloc battle rifle.
When it comes to budget CZ-75 clones, the SAR 2000 wins.
Had things been different, Josef and František Koucký might’ve whiled away their days smoking big cigars in a villa overlooking the Vltava River. As it stands, the talented gun designers’ names are little more than footnotes. That’s difficult to reconcile, given their creation is perhaps one of the most prolific handguns of the last half-century: the CZ-75.
Why yes, one of the original “Wonder Nines” of the 1970s earned the Kouckýs little kudos … and even less money. Therein lies the rub, given the sheer number of CZ’s iterations of the recoil-operated, semi-automatic pistol and its throngs of mimics. Weak Combloc patent laws allowed the bird to fly the coop, and every Tom, Dick and Harry with a manufacturing concern popped off their version of the “Wonder Nine.” Perhaps no other gun of the past 50 years has been more copied; it took more than a century for John Browning’s 1911 to develop as many facsimiles. Alas, if there were only royalty checks for the Kouckýs.
The talented Czech designers’ loss has been many shooters’ gain. The CZ-75 clone wars spurred some true gems, many long on performance and some short on price. Which, for all intents and purposes, describes the Sarsilmaz 2000, more commonly known as the SAR 2000.
The duty-sized CZ clone is an ideal home-defense option or an entry-level option for a dedicated competition gun.
The Turks Are Coming!
The who and the what? You’re forgiven if Sarsilmaz isn’t part of your everyday firearms vernacular—it doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue like Browning, Glock or Sig Sauer.
But the Turkish company has the historic chops to hang with many of the top names, and it has proven that in the recent decade. Operating out of Istanbul, Sarsilmaz has turned out sporting and military-grade firearms since around 1880. Currently, the company’s claim to fame is outfitting the Turkish National Police and armed forces with sidearms—the country’s only privately held company that can make that boast.
If an American has heard of them, it’s been through Sarsilmaz’s more recent forays into the American market under its U.S. operation, SAR USA. Most notably, the SAR 9 striker-fired pistol has earned its share of kudos, offering one of the best-priced, no-compromise Glock 19 clones to come down the pike. The SAR Model 2000 does much the same for CZ clones, though this isn’t the pistol’s first time around the block in America.
Yanks have fawned over the Turkish double-action/single-action (DA/SA) pistol previously under the banner of Armalite, the somewhat forgotten AR-24. Though this latest iteration is more closely related to the original 9mm Sarsilmaz DA/SA—the Sarsilmaz Kilinç 2000—than the AR model. To that end, as for the pistol’s CZ-75 DNA, it has much more of an Italian accent than a Czech. The heater is an echo of an echo.
In particular, the SAR 2000 seems to more closely mimic Tanfoglio’s take on the CZ-75 more than the original. This isn’t only seen in the pistol’s Mediterranean aesthetics, but also some of its more weighty design points. In particular, the SAR 2000’s fire control adopts the Tanfoglio design.
Disassembly of the SAR 2000 is straightforward for anyone familiar with the CZ-75 or any of its mimics.
At times, many shooters have contended the Italian pistol offered a better, more consistent trigger pull than what came out of CZ. That’s a barbershop debate point, not set-in-stone gospel. I could find few complaints about how the Turkish pistol tripped, so there might be something to the contention.
While it’s comparable to the Italian CZ-75 clone, it beats it in one of the most difficult categories—price. With a suggested retail price of $478, it’s among the most affordable options hitting gun store shelves. On top of that, there isn’t a lot of compromise in what a shooter receives.
Out Of The Box
I have a soft spot for hammer guns and plenty of steel, which is to say, I was taken aback when I unpacked the SAR 2000 for the first time. Sans the magazine follower and grip panels, the pistol is head-to-toe metal—good stuff to boot. Now, the 9mm isn’t quite stainless steel, but a high-quality, high-chromium alloy known for its toughness and corrosion resistance. But where the material mattered most, at least in this initial take, was its heft.
When it comes to CZ-75 clones that don’t run an arm and a leg, and don’t compromise on performance, the Sarsilmaz more than holds its own.
Make no mistake: The SAR 2000 is no lightweight. In fact, there’s a full 32 ounces of pistol to contend with, making it an out-in-out behemoth. The duty-sized pistol balances nicely in the hand, with its 4.5-inch barrel giving it a bit of front weight. Honestly, these are welcome attributes, though they break from the modern herd. The 9mm Luger is polite as far as semi-auto pistol rounds go and is a plum kitten out of a gun with the 2000’s bulk.
Despite the gun’s weight, it fit my medium-sized hands very well with enough room; small-handed shooters most likely will find it comfortable. Sarsilmaz puts curves and contours in the perfect places, allowing it to snake to the palm and intuitively form a fundamental high grip. The soft, rubber grip panels also do their part, keeping the pistol in place and on target. They’re needed, given there’s only a small patch of checkering on the front and back straps, so something has to make up the difference.
A largish trigger guard gives fast access to the trigger and is spacious enough to run with gloved hands.
As to the SAR 2000’s aesthetics, it’s a racy-looking gun. First off, it sports a traditionally shaped dust cover, another way of saying it’s sans an accessory rail, lending traditional appeal. Next, its classic lines are set off by an unconventional beveled slide, which reminded me of another famous CZ-75 mimic—IWI’s Jericho. The comparison is furthered given the more aggressive cocking serrations—rear only—which is similar to many versions of the Israeli pistol.
The 2000 I handled was finished matte black thanks to the Turkish company’s proprietary nitrocarburizing process. This gave the pistol a tactical and rugged look, as well as protection from the elements. However, for those who need a bit more bling, Sarsilmaz offers an equally attractive flat, stainless steel finished model.
Controllability
Lefties, you might not care for what’s coming. Pleasant as the SAR 2000 is, it won’t play nice with your wrong-handed ways. All the controls are on the left side of the frame and non-reversible. However, there’s plenty of utility in what’s offered up to run the gun.
Here I speak primarily of the thumb safety lever. What a relief! A thumb safety, in my humble opinion, vastly improves the utility of a DA/SA pistol. Simply put, you can carry such a piece cocked-and-locked, skipping the long-and-heavy, double-action stage. That’s an advantage for anyone who values greater accuracy on the draw.
The safety proved very positive and easy to manipulate on the fly, making the pistol a great candidate to carry cocked and locked.
My Wheeler trigger pull scale averaged around 5 pounds flat with a very sharp and consistent break in single action. In double-action, the pistol required nearly 12.5 pounds of rearward force to crack off a shot. So, the advantage of the safety is obvious.
That said, if you prefer the insurance against missteps hastened by sympathetic nerve responses, the DA trigger is respectable. Smooth goes a long way in defeating heavy, and the DA pull on the SAR is slick. The steel trigger does its part, too. Sporting a traditional steeply curved shoe, it proves very responsive no matter what stage the pistol is in. The reset is terse as they come and picks up the pistol’s pace.
Typically contoured, the 2000’s trigger was responsive in both double- and single-action. But SA is the way to go.
There are some other minor points worth touching on that enhance the control and manipulation of the SAR. An ample trigger guard makes getting onto the switch hassle-free; though I didn’t shoot with gloves, its large enough mitts shouldn’t prove a barrier. An ample beavertail not only protects from slide or hammer bites, but also offers a solid landmark for fast and proper hand placement. A well-sized mag release picked up reloads considerably. Well, that and the fact the magazine dropped like ripe apples.
Sarsilmaz At The Range
I was excited to see what the Turkish heater had to offer in live fire … and I wasn’t a bit disappointed.
Through 200 rounds—no torture test, to be sure—the gun didn’t have one hiccup, and I challenged it in this facet. In addition to three Federal SynTech loads, I also pitched Wolf steel-case 115 FMJ—not always the easiest stuff to extract.
As for accuracy, it was spot on. At 25 yards in single action, the best showing came from Federal 150-grain SynTech Action Pistol, which printed the tightest group of the day—3.25 inches. However, through all the ammo I ran, none veered much over the 3.5-inch mark when shooting supported off sandbags. This is more than adequate for a pistol and greatly aided by the 2000’s top-notch forged and crowned barrel.
I ran several dot drills and target transitions with the pistol. The SAR 2000 shined through it all. As expected, the copious iron was gentlemanly in recoil, allowing me to move quickly between targets, and the trigger more than did its job. I didn’t walk away a fan of the double-action trigger. The weight is challenging and a polar opposite of its impressive single-action trigger. That said, for what it is, I didn’t hate it and found it more than acceptable for this style of gun.
As to sights—typical steel three-dot—they’re more than familiar to any modern shooter and were easy to run. For most, they should prove a solid option; if not, the rear is dovetailed and easily upgradable.
Parting Shot
Affordable and ready to run, the SAR 2000 might be the top budget CZ-75 clone out today. That’s a steep statement, but one I feel my time with the pistol backs up. This is a good thing beyond penny pinchers adding a version of the classic to their collection.
The fit is excellent on the Turkish pistol, with nary a wiggle between slide and frame.
While the gun is more than up for home defense duty and would excel in this role, where I think it best fits is as an entry-level competitive pistol. I imagine the practical-pistol competitor in the market for his or her first dedicated race gun—with a tab in the hundreds, not thousands—will appreciate what Sarsilmaz has accomplished. But at the price the Turks are asking, really you don’t require a set-in-stone objective to enjoy what the SAR 2000 brings to the table.
It’s no genuine CZ-75, nor one of its high-end clones, but it doesn’t have to be. The SAR 2000 more than represents the lineage—only at a fraction of the price.
SAR 2000 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm
Action: DA/SA
Sights: Steel Three-Dot
Barrel Length: 4.5 Inches
Weight: 35.2 Ounces
Capacity: 17+1 ; 10+1
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the October 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
The Fourth of July is, of course, a time for we Americans to celebrate our liberties and inalienable rights. Here at Gun Digest, one right is always floating around our heads, particularly on our Nation's birthday — the right to bear arms. Not only does the Second Amendment give us the ability to thwart tyranny and protect ourselves and our families, it also has spawned incredible firearms along the way.
We Americans have a knack at engineering, especially when it comes to guns. We cut some out of whole cloth and others we improve on time-tested designs. And in the end, we come up with implements that change world history.
With that in mind, here are the top 10 most American guns of all time. Of course, we know we might've left out your favorite or added one you don't agree with. Share your thoughts in the comments below.
Good for injecting lead into distant deer and Red Coats alike. More generally known now as the Kentucky or Pennsylvania rifle, these elegant flintlocks are a symbol of American independence. And they gave the Colonists a great advantage in the American Revolution, with the gun's rifled bore and long barrels extending their user's effective range out to 200 yards and beyond. While they played a role in the American War for Independence, it was small compared to the British-made Brown Bess Musket, the primary arm of our Nation’s Army. The rifles came about during the French and Indian War with Lancaster, Pa., the most commonly referenced place of origin. It is generally accepted that the American Long Rifle was a modification of the Germanic Jäger rifle, produced by Swiss and Germen settlers of the region. But there are more recent theories that suggest English Trade Guns also had a large influence on the design, particularly the American Long Rifle’s longer barrel and smaller caliber.
Colt Paterson
To be sure, old Sam Colt and his company would go on to produce much more iconic firearms. But the wellspring was the Paterson. Patented in 1836 and produce until 1842, the cap-and-ball, black-powder pistol was the first commercially successful repeating firearm to use a revolving cylinder. As Colt’s fans most likely know, the popular story is Colt conceived of the revolver during his teenage years at sea, inspired by the ship's steering mechanism. That might be, but there were likely examples of flintlock revolvers — such as Elisha Collier’s — he saw on his trip. They were somewhat common in India, and his destination was Calcutta. No matter how inspiration struck, we Americans are sure happy it did. Not only did the design lead to some true firearms legends, it’s still a concept that dominates nearly 200 years later. Photo: Hmaag
If the brass receiver of the 1860 Henry doesn’t spark some primal urge to thumb off 16 rounds as fast as you can work the lever, then there is no hope for you. The repeating rifle was the brainchild of Benjamin Tyler Henry, sort of. It was basically an improvement on Volition and Volcanic rifles, designs Oliver Winchester acquired when Volcanic Repeating Arms went bankrupt. Henry soon set to refining the design when he was hired by Winchester in 1858 as superintendent at the New Haven Repeating Arms Company. Perhaps one of the weightiest modifications was the self-cocking mechanism that operated in concert with the lever-action. The gun saw some action in the Civil War, but was by no means the dominant arm of the conflict. However, the fact soldiers would spend their own hard-earned pay — one would say wisely so — to purchase them to take into battle speaks volumes as to what the rifle brought to the fight. It was also the foundation — with improvements — for the majority of lever-action rifles that would go on to win the Old West, such as the Winchester 1873.
There probably isn’t a single pistol that encapsulates more of America than this Colt. It is the West forged in steel. A testament to this, these single-action legends have been rolling off — reluctantly so, upon occasion — Colt's assembly line for going on 150 years. The gun itself doesn’t represent a huge technological leap from what was being produced at the time. But when prevailing design points of the era were married to the powerful .45 Colt round, well, it was like when Butch met Sundance. While the U.S. Army originally adopted the revolver, the lore around it grew from its use by famous good and bad guys of the Old West. The likes of Wyatt Earp, Bat Masterson, Doc Holliday and others all relied on the accuracy, power and reliability of the Colt at one time or another. Then Hollywood got a hold of it and brought the SAA to near godlike stature. Dave Campbell perhaps said it best, “Whether used to protect and defend, an ersatz hammer to pound fence staples or as a movie star, the Colt Single Action Army has delivered every time.”
As far as warhorses are concerned, few have been ridden longer than the Springfield 1903. The tried-and-true five-round bolt-action made its appearance soon after the Spanish-American War and served all the way up to Vietnam. Heck, the U.S. Army’s Drill Team still snaps to attention with this classic at their side. The rifle came about due to U.S. troops being outclassed by the Spanish Army’s M1893 Mauser in the Spanish-American War. Utilizing design points from the Springfield Model 1892–99 Krag–Jørgensen (which the Springfield replaced) and the Mauser G98, the 1903 was born. The two biggest improvements on it from the ’Krag–Jørgensen were a faster-to-load internal magazine, one able to utilize stripper-clips, and a chamber able to handle higher-pressure rounds. It was originally chambered to shoot the short-lived .30-03, but was soon upgraded to fire the legendary .30-06 Springfield.
A true red-blooded American semi-auto. In the 20th Century, there has been no more revered firearm than the M1911. Created by prolific firearms designer John M. Browning, the semi-automatic pistol, or some variation on it, has seen action in nearly every American conflict since World War I. And like the Springfield Rifle, the pistol was born out of the harsh lessons of war. In the Philippine-American War, Moro guerrilla just wouldn’t drop after multiple shots of .38 Long Colt from soldiers’ Colt M1892 revolvers. Long story short, this sparked trials to replace the revolver that lasted nearly 6 years. In the end, Colt’s M1911 was the last gun standing. What made it a desirable sidearm is what still attracts shooters today — its simplicity and reliability. A look back at the field tests themselves sums it up pretty well, “[D]uring a 6,000 round test fired over two days in 1910… (Browning’s) sample pistol became so hot that it was simply dunked in a pail of water to cool it for further firing. Browning’s sample reportedly passed the test with no malfunctions.” The other aspect of the M1911 that makes it so desirable, it’s chambering. The .45 ACP delivers a lot of energy on the target, but not at the cost of being unmanageable.
Ma is American fury in .50 caliber. Next to the M1911, the M2 Browning is the longest serving firearm in the U.S. inventory. And unless there is some major breakthrough in the near future, expect this wicked behemoth to continue slinging whoop ass down range for years to come. As its name suggests, it is yet another brainchild of firearms genius John M. Browning and came about due to the increased use of armor in World War I. Pitching the mammoth .50 BMG (Browning Machine Gun) round, the M2 could make mincemeat out of all but the heaviest armored vehicles and a whole bunch more. In fact, Ma Deuce’s versatility is most likely what keeps her forever young. The massive .50 caliber has and is used for nearly every conceivable military purpose, from anti-personal to hard-target interdiction to anti-aircraft to primary and secondary weapons on fighting vehicles. And it has an incredible range of projectiles to send at enemies, giving a heavy machine gunner an astonishing toolbox from which to work.
Of all the arrows in the U.S. Military’s quiver during World War II, the M1 Garand was the sharpest. While the rest of the world’s military forces were playing around with bolt-action rifles during the conflict, the Yanks were laying down accurate, high-volume fire with the M1. In short, the Garand was decisive. No wonder Gen. George S. Patton dubbed it “the greatest battle implement ever devised.” The .30-caliber M1 Garand was adopted by the U.S. in 1936, replacing the 1903 Springfield. John Garand, who was as unique as his weapon, devised the rugged and reliable rifle. The French-Canadian immigrant caught the attention of the government, who gave him a position at the Springfield Armory. The machinist turned engineer spent the next decade and a half basically devising the M1. Luckily, it was just in time to lead our boys to victory in the countryside of Europe and the islands of the Pacific.
This is the undisputed modern day American rifle. If for no other reason than how dang widespread the AR-15 and all its variants have become both on the civilian and military markets. And with manufacturers playing with new chamberings and design points all the time, only expect the Black Rifle to grow in scope and scale. As far as American gun designs are concerned, at least circa the 1950s, the AR-15 was a radical departure. Plastic, aluminum, small caliber — it seemed to run counter to all intuition, especially for a rifle that would (or more precisely its military adaptation, the M16 would) eventually take the place of the wood and steel M14. Perhaps the most revolutionary point of Eugene Stoner’s design was the use of direct gas impingement (though he did not consider it exactly this) to cycle the AR-15. While the concept existed, it was not the dominant design point at the time, with most of the world’s semi-automatic rifles utilizing short- and long-stroke piston systems. Opting for DI, Stoner not only engineered a lighter rifle, but a more accurate one, due to the fact that the AR-15’s barrel was essentially free floating. The other aspect that has kept the rifle rolling is its capacity. The AR-15’s eventual chambering of the small-bore, high-velocity 5.56 NATO/.223 Rem., not only allowed more rounds per magazine but also more ammunition to be carried on person.
It makes sense there is only one shotgun on this list, because there are few other smoothbores that are even half as prolific as the Remington Model 870. The only one that gets close is the Mossberg 500, which has surpassed the 10 million mark. As of 2016, more than 11 million of the rough-and-ready Remington pump-actions had been produced. That puts it up there as one of the most manufactured firearms in history — a list primarily dominated by military rifles. The reliable 870 has played nearly every role expected of a shotgun, from hunter to home-defense weapon to law enforcement tool to battle implement. To the first point in that list, 870s could very well have put more meat on the table than any other gun given its sheer profusion. What made the 870 (and still makes it) such a hit when it was introduced in 1950 was its affordability and performance. Utilizing new post-World War II manufacturing techniques, Remington was able to churn out these dependable, well-made smoothbores en mass and economically. The first year alone there were 15 different models to choose from. And given their sturdy construction, they’re pretty danged hard to stop from chewing through shells. Good chance rats and cockroaches will use the 870 to fight each other long after man disappears from the face of the earth — at least the American ones.
While today there is no shortage of lightweight, intermediate-caliber carbines, that was not always the case. The AR-15 was only beginning to be adopted by U.S. armed forces in 1962, and it took quite a while longer for it to become the ultra-common working man’s rifle that it is today. For many decades following WWII, that role was filled by the M1 carbine. Officially designated as the United States Carbine, Caliber .30, M1, the M1 carbine is very lightweight and handy, even having a folding stock variant. It’s chambered for .30 Carbine, a 110-grain projectile that travels about 1,990 fps. This allowed it to serve as a pseudo-intermediate cartridge before that concept was truly introduced with 8mm Kurz. Issued with 15- and 30-round detachable box magazines, the M1 (and eventually M2) carbine served as one of our nation’s most formidable small arms for many years both at home and abroad. Much like what would happen later with the AR family of rifles, servicemen who had experienced the M1 carbine at war understood its utility, leading many to acquire their own after returning home. For many years before the proliferation of AR-15s, the M1 was the most “tacticool” option available. The M1 carbine may have never received the household-name recognition that the General Patton-endorsed M1 Garand did, but it is equally as historically important and was arguably an even more forward-thinking design when it was introduced.
Editor's Note: Adam Borisenko contributed to this article.
A look at some American-crafted gear for American gunners.
Political correctness has never been my strong suit. My editors have gotten used to it; they just replace potentially offensive comments with smoother language. I’m OK with that; that’s their job, and it makes them feel like they’re doing something good for humanity.
However, while this article isn’t intended to offend anyone, it’s all about American made. There are a lot of sub-par products in the gun world, but there’s also a lot of good stuff, too. This article is about stuff for shooters that’s made in America—and works. I know, because I’ve used them.
You might already know about some of these companies but might not know about some of the cool stuff they make. If you believe in supporting American manufacturing but also demand high quality … well, here you go.
Hunters HD Gold
Hunter’s HD Gold shooting glasses are premium eye protection that protect your eyes from more than just ballistic concerns.
Most shooting glasses are less than great, but you can’t say that about the glasses from Hunter’s HD Gold. They’re ballistic rated—but more importantly, they’re photochromatic and treated to eliminate harmful rays. The gold-colored lenses also enhance contrast and help you see better when shooting, hunting, driving or … well, doing just about anything.
Several styles are available, but unlike most of the overseas junk, you can have Hunter’s HD Gold lenses cut to your prescription and fitted to you own frames! I don’t shoot or hunt without them. Prices start at $375. HuntersHDgold.com
Lehigh Defense
Lehigh Defense Controlled Chaos bullets are precision machined from copper. They’re extremely accurate and deadly.
There are several great American bullet companies, but none have embraced the leadless projectile like Lehigh Defense. They create some incredibly magnificent bullets for special applications and special operations. Black Hills and Buffalo Bore are now using Lehigh bullets.
One of their most creative projectiles is the Controlled Chaos. This is a solid copper bullet with a front end that turns to shrapnel during penetration, creating massive tissue damage. But like with the Nosler Partition, the base of the bullet continues to penetrate. They’re offered in a variety of calibers and bullet weights. My son killed his Africa buffalo with a single Lehigh Defense Controlled Chaos bullet. Enough said! LehighDefense.com
Wyoming Sight Drifter
The Wyoming Sight Drifter is an ingenious tool that’ll make installing or removing dovetail sights easier than you can imagine.
Installing and adjusting iron sights on rifles and handguns has traditionally been done by pounding on a brass rod with a hammer. If you’ve done this, you’ve no doubt wondered how it’s possible to hit a brass rod so hard and not move the sight. You’ve also probably missed the brass rod and hit your gun or your finger, all the while thinking, There has to be a better way. Well, there is, and it’s called the Wyoming Sight Drifter.
This is an incredibly simple device, consisting of a brass punch on one end and a spring-loaded hammer on the other. It’s only about 5 inches long and weighs less than 3 ounces. You place the brass end against the sight, pull on the spring-loaded end … and let it go. The spring-loaded hammer impacts the brass end, and inertia causes the sight to move. I’ve used mine hundreds of times and have yet to find a sight it won’t install. It costs only $35. WyomingSightDrifter.com
Skinner Sights
Incredibly well-made and compact, the Skinner takedown rifle case is a perfect way to carry and transport a takedown rifle.
Montana-based Skinner sights is known for their rugged aperture-style peep sights, and they’re used by several firearms manufacturers. However, what you probably don’t know is that Skinner Sights has recently gotten into gun cases. They offer a variety of cases to include a very unique garment bag rifle case that’ll hang in your closet.
But their coolest new case is one made for take-down rifles. I picked up one ($59) for my Dove Custom Marlin 336 lever-scout in 35 Remington, and it’s amazing how compact this case makes for carrying this gun and a full box of ammo. While you’re ordering, take some time and enjoy the Skinner Sights website, you’ll find all kinds of goodies there. SkinnerSights.com
EDC CLP
I’ll keep this one short and sweet. If you like for your guns to run and you like for them to last, you should use a high-quality cleaner, lubricant and protector. EDC CLP’s detergent properties penetrate deep into the crevasses of moving parts to prevent carbon buildup, and it’s designed to function in high heat.
It not only increases the firearm’s lubricity, but it also cleans while you’re shooting. It’s patented, it’s made in America and it works. A 2-ounce bottle retails for $14.99 EDCclp.com
Gauge Outfitters
The Gauge Outfitters paracord tool is a piece of kit that should be in every shooter’s or outdoorsman’s ditty bag.
I stumbled on this company by accident, and what I found was a fantastic range bag and a very unique tool to manage paracord. Their Heritage Gun Range Bag is 100-percent American made out of durable 1000D Cordura. It measures 16 by 12 by 9 inches and comes with two dividing inserts, has a removable hard bottom and one of its neatest features is a built-in, roll-out gun mat that can be used for cleaning or just as a clean place to lay out your gear. At $150, it’s not cheap, but it’s without question the best range bag I’ve seen.
As for the paracord tool, essentially, it’s a spool to store paracord on. In reality, it’s much more. It has a built-in blade to cut the paracord and a built-in socket to store a lighter to burn the ends of the cord after it’s been cut. Retail price is only $16.49, but if you use a lot of paracord, this tool is worth three times that much. GaugeOutfitters.com
Wilson Combat
Looking for one magazine that’ll work with the 223/5.56, .300 Blackout and .300 Hamr? Look to Wilson Combat.
If you’re a gun person and haven’t heard of Wilson Combat, we probably can’t be friends. Wilson Combat builds the best-quality ARs and 1911-styled pistols, but what many might not know is that Wilson Combat is now offering a 30-round, multi-caliber AR-15 magazine that’ll work with the .223 Remington/5.56 NATO, .300 Blackout and the .300 HAMR. It retails for $18.95. The .300 HAMR was specifically designed for the AR-15 by Wilson Combat and is probably the best dual-purpose hunting/tactical cartridge available in that platform. It duplicates the ballistics of the .30-30 Winchester and is now SAAMI approved.
Wilson Combat’s eXperior EDCX9 pistol is the ultimate expression of a self-defense handgun.
You can convert your .223/5.56 AR to .300 HAMR with nothing but a new barrel and the aforementioned magazine. Wilson Combat has all the ammo you need, and while you’re there ordering, do not check out their Experior Commander Double-Stack pistol unless there’s a lot of space on your credit card. WilsonCombat.com
Andy’s Leather
Andy’s Leather crafts some of the best leather shooting slings available anywhere, at any price.
There’s lots of custom leather crafters out there that make holsters, straps and other gun accessories. Andy’s Leather, however, specializes in shooting slings—not carry straps—that help stabilize your shooting position.
Andy at Andy’s leather is Gunsite Academy trained and is the go-to source for Ching slings and Rhodesian-style shooting slings. Prices range from about $40 to $65, and he also offers a variety of other quality leather goods. AndysLeather.com
Wicked Grips
Humans have been fascinated by weaponry since some caveman used a rock to kill something. Like a hammer, a firearm is just a tool, but to humans these tools have a special meaning. And, just like a caveman probably decorated his favorite rock, soldiers, shooters and hunters have been decorating their weaponry for centuries.
With handguns, the best way to do this is with custom grips, and you won’t find any cooler than those from Wicked Grips. Ed Strange with Wicked Grips told me, “I manufacture all my stuff here. If it’s not made from raw materials in my facility, it’s made in a vendor/partner facility here in the USA. The aluminum panels we use are bare machined parts my buddy Chris at Alumagrips machines for us, to our specifications. Everything else we make. There are 1,200 products when all variations are counted. Nothing foreign!” WickedGrips.com
Kitanica
The RSP pants from Kitanica are great for range wear, farm work and hunting. They’re nearly indestructible.
Kitanica’s new Nightwatch pullover has become one of my favorite outer garments. It reminds me of the commando-type wool sweaters of World War II, but it’s made of Power Stretch Pro Polartec. And comfortable and warm it is. It also makes a fine-looking outer garment with enough length to cover an IWB holster. It’s $150 and you’ll look good in it; maybe not as good as I do, but good enough.
Kitanica’s RSP pants might be even better. I tried them three years ago and have been hooked ever since. They have more pockets than you can use, and the pocket placement, belt loops and closures are all well thought out. However, their most important attribute is durability. They’ll outlast most relationships, they’re American made, retail for $175 and are worth every single penny. Kitanica.com
Versacarry
The Versacarry Ammo Caddy is, hands down, the best device for carrying extra ammunition on your rifle.
Versacarry is a well-known manufacturer of well-made-but-affordable handgun holsters. What many don’t know is that they make the best gadget for carrying extra ammunition on your rifle. Lace-up leather butt-cuffs have always been popular, especially on lever guns, but the Versacarry Ammo Caddy is lighter, easier to install and looks and works better. It even comes with a belt pad that allows you to switch its location or carry an extra Ammo Caddy.
I’ve written about the Ammo Caddy multiple times in these pages, and I’m astonished it’s not one of Versacarry’s best-selling items at $54.99. Pay attention, because there’s no better way to carry ammunition on your rifle. Period! VersaCarry.com
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the 2021 USA special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Sig Sauer has just announced the M400-DH3 rifle, a new competition AR-15 designed in collaboration with competitive shooter Daniel Horner.
Designs are often refined by people who are skilled at using the item in question. Just as a high-performance vehicle can be improved by an expert driver’s input, so too can the designs of firearms with the help of professional shooters. Daniel Horner is one such individual, and after years of shooting competitively for Team SIG, he and the company collaborated to create the M400-DH3 rifle.
The M400-DH3 has been configured to exactly match what Horner has been competing with for the past two years, and he’s already used it to rack up several more titles in that time. The rifle features an aluminum frame and utilizes the SIG Direct Impingement (SDI) gas system. It features a .223 Wylde chamber and the stainless steel barrel is 16 inches, fluted and has a 1:8 twist. Each gun also includes an adjustable DH3 competition buttstock, a 2-stage adjustable Timney trigger and a 3-chamber compensator. Other notable features of the M400-DH3 are its ambidextrous bolt release, low-profile M-LOK handguard and its light weight of only 7 pounds.
Horner said this on the M400-DH3:
For the past two years I have been shooting in competition with the M400-DH3 rifle and what you get right out of the box is my set-up. We took our time to release this gun because I wanted all the elements to be my competition set-up from my trigger to the stock…I’ve won multiple titles with this exact build and even if you’re not taking it into competition, you are sure to enjoy the custom features that we have put into the M400-DH3.
The official MSRP is not yet listed, but expect it to be at least $1,600.
Looking to trick out your Ruger 10/22 or build one from scratch? An aftermarket 10/22 receiver is a great place to start.
Factory-configured Ruger 10/22s are great firearms with a well-deserved reputation for being rugged and reliable. However, 10/22 shooters today can enjoy the ability to employ aftermarket components, including receivers, to customize their rifle and tailor it to their specific wants and needs.
Many aftermarket 10/22 receiver models feature integral scope mounts, often utilizing Picatinny rails that make mounting a variety of optics much easier. This also eliminates the need to install a conventional optic mount on top of a drilled and tapped receiver.
If desired, one could easily cobble together a lightweight 10/22 using aftermarket options like a Volquartsen Superlite receiver. Swapping receivers can also yield other benefits such as better resistance to the elements or innovative features such as easier internal access for cleaning.
There is such an abundance of aftermarket components on the market that it is possible to build a 10/22 without using a single Ruger factory part. While starting with a factory 10/22 certainly helps, as you will have the other major parts to work with once you get a new receiver, it is not a prerequisite.
If you were to buy just a 10/22 receiver, you could complete the firearm only using components that best fit your needs and desires. This method also allows one to get what they want from the get-go rather than ending up with a heap of useless spare parts.
Again, there is nothing wrong with the original 10/22 receivers made by Ruger. The company has been producing this model since 1964 and certainly knows what it is doing.
The 10/22 in standard configuration already had what it took to establish itself as the premier semi-auto .22 rifle in the U.S., but the considerable aftermarket that followed only helped to solidify its eminence. An already versatile design when introduced, today’s ability to replace every component with a non-Ruger one allows the rifle to be made even more so.
As shooters’ tastes and needs constantly evolve, so too do the options for aftermarket 10/22 receivers and parts. Regardless of what you need your rifle to do for you, there’s a possible 10/22 build out there that can do it.
Replacing A 10/22 Receiver:
Swapping out a factory 10/22 receiver for an aftermarket one is a straightforward process that can be accomplished at home using common tools. No trips to the gunsmith or specialized instruments are required.
After verifying that the firearm is unloaded and safe, the barreled action must be removed from the stock or chassis. This is achieved by loosening and removing the screw forward of the magazine well on the underside of the rifle. Next, the safety must be pushed into a neutral and centered position that will allow the barreled action to be lifted from the stock or chassis.
Once the barreled action has been freed from its bonds, the trigger pack can be removed easily by pushing the trigger pins out with a punch or similar tool. Then, push out the recoil buffer at the rear of the receiver and pull the bolt rearward. The charging handle can be removed while the bolt is at its rearmost position by tilting the charging handle down from the front of the receiver. Once the charging handle is removed, the bolt assembly can be taken out of the receiver.
Next, the barrel must be removed. The barrel removal process on a 10/22 is simple and only requires the removal of two screws from the V-Block on the underside of the receiver where it meets the barrel. Once the barrel has been removed, the receiver is now fully stripped, and you can begin installing everything on the new aftermarket 10/22 receiver. This is achieved by reversing the process described above.
A disassembled aftermarket 10/22 receiver, barrel and chassis. Photo: Luth-AR.
The takedown process may also require an extra step or two depending on the 10/22 model you are working with. For example, the carbine models feature a barrel band that must be removed before separating the barreled action from the stock. However, with some specific exceptions aside, the takedown process is generally the same across all 10/22-based designs.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of aftermarket 10/22 receivers, but these selections represent a variety of designs from multiple manufacturers. There are also more specialized aftermarket receivers that were excluded from this list, such as those for 10/22 Takedown models, so just be aware that options are plentiful. Since most 10/22 models on the market are the common non-takedown variant, these options were chosen to be compatible with a majority of 10/22s out there.
If you’re looking to upgrade an existing 10/22 or build a rifle or pistol from scratch, these options have you covered. Some receivers on the market come with little to no extra components while others include more parts. Most receivers will include a V-Block assembly, eliminating the need to reuse the one that came with your original 10/22. Other options include the entire bolt carrier assembly and V-Block as well, providing an additional upgrade and making it easier to complete your build. Now let’s look at some receivers.
Tactical Innovations ELITE22 Receiver
This 10/22 receiver features a billet aluminum construction and an integral Picatinny rail. The extended rail provides ample space for mounting whatever optic you wish. Tactical Innovations also offers a variety of add-on options if you purchase the receiver from them. Options include bolt assemblies, hardware packages and trigger assemblies. The receiver is also available in a variety of Cerakote colors such as black, red, blue and olive drab. Tactical Innovations also runs frequent sales on their parts and components, allowing you to keep more money in your pocket. This receiver is a good choice for those who want a lightweight 10/22 receiver that won’t break the bank. MSRP: $194.49 // Weight: 8.3oz // Site: tacticalinc.com
Fletcher Rifle Works OpenTop 11/22 Receiver
Fletcher Rifle Works’ OpenTop 11/22 is a unique receiver design. Most of the top of the receiver is covered by a removable lid that allows one to remove key components such as the bolt, extractor and firing pin without fully disassembling the rifle. The process of cleaning is also improved thanks to the removable lid, as the internals of the receiver can be accessed more easily. A Picatinny rail is present forward of the lid and provides an integral and versatile optics mounting solution. All in all, the OpenTop 11/22 demonstrates the kind of innovative features that can be incorporated into the 10/22 design when using aftermarket components. MSRP: $250.00 //Weight: 16oz // Site: fletcherrw.com
F.J. Fedderson 10/22 Nickel Alloy Receiver
This receiver features a nickel-bronze alloy construction that provides increased resistance to the elements. Particularly, rust and corrosion are staved off by the properties of nickel. An extended Picatinny rail hangs over the barrel, providing ample real estate for a variety of optics. While this nickel-bronze alloy receiver weighs a few ounces more than aluminum models (including those of original Rugers), the increased ruggedness and integral optics rail are worth the slight increase in weight. This receiver is a great option for those who wish to give their 10/22 the all-weather treatment and enhance their optic-mounting potential. MSRP: $300.00 // Weight: 22.6oz // Site: fjfeddersen.com
Volquartsen Superlite Receiver
This model yields two major upgrades that can be achieved through the use of an aftermarket 10/22 receiver. Firstly, the Superlite receiver from Volquartsen is exceptionally light and is CNC-machined from aluminum. The lightweight nature of the receiver makes it a welcome addition on any 10/22 build that may need to be carried. Ditching the more commonly used Picatinny rail, Volquartsen instead utilizes their Universal Red Dot Mount.
Thirteen pistol red dots are advertised as being compatible with the Universal Red Dot Mount system, including options from prominent brands such as Trijicon and Leupold. The matrix of optic mounting holes reduces bulk and weight, as there is no rail protruding from the top of the receiver. The red dots simply screw directly into the receiver via the appropriate holes. This receiver is a lightweight option that provides its user with an innovative way to mount popular red dot sights. MSRP: $365.00 // Weight: 6oz // Site: volquartsen.com
Tactical Solutions X-RING VR Receiver
This offering from Tactical Solutions represents a premium aftermarket receiver package. A bolt is included that utilizes a dual guide-rod system and features a charging handle that can be configured for left or right-handed use. The proprietary dual-guide rod system in the bolt assembly promotes reliable and smooth cycling, and the rear of the receiver also features a cleaning port that allows it to be cleaned without extensive disassembly. This offering from Tactical Solutions is a good choice for those who wish to assemble a premium 10/22, as it combines a lightweight receiver with other upgraded components and features. MSRP: $552.00 // Weight: 20.8oz (Including bolt assembly) // Site: tacticalsol.com
Designed by Winchester in 1925 for its Model 54 bolt-action rifle, .270 Winchester caused quite a stir in shooting circles. At the time of introduction, it offered better long-range performance than any big-game cartridge available on the American market. The cartridge is based on the .30-06 case necked down to .277 inch. The case neck is .050-inch longer but, except for the neck and headstamp, the .270 Winchester is otherwise identical to the .30-06.
General Comments
Along with the .30-06, this is one of the most accurate and effective all-round American big-game cartridges. Its reputation and popularity have increased steadily since its introduction. Although not intended as a varmint cartridge, the .270 will serve very well in that capacity when loaded with bullets of 90 to 110 grains.
The 130-grain bullet at 3,100-fps muzzle velocity is considered adequate by many experienced hunters for any North American big game.
The present 150-grain bullet at 2,860 fps is intended for maximum penetration on heavier animals such as elk, moose or bear. Some disagree, but current evidence reinforces the conclusion that the .270 is adequate for any North American big game, and some African plains game as well.
Assuming the hunter uses the proper bullet for the job at hand, the .270 will deliver reliable performance. In any comparison of the .270 with the .30-06, much depends on intended use and hunting conditions. For some reason, many individuals shoot better with the .270 than the .30-06. The .270 is flatter shooting than the .30-06 and, thus, makes a better varmint/big-game rifle where this is a consideration. The .30-06, with its 180-, 200- and 220-grain bullets, must be conceded as a better heavy-game cartridge.
In accuracy and general performance, there isn’t a great deal to argue about. Anyone trying to make a big case for one against the other is beating a pretty dead horse. The .270 Winchester is commercially loaded by all large domestic and most foreign ammunition manufacturers.
Why is there so much variation among reliable sources of reloading data?
“I only use the [insert company name here] reloading manual. It has the correct reloading data.”
I’ve heard that line only slightly more than the classic, “I got this reliable reloading data from the internet.” Both statements are skewed—the latter much more than the former—for different reasons.
What’s a reloading manual? Is it gospel? And, if so, why is there so much variation between the numerous (supposedly) reliable sources? If a reloading manual isn’t gospel, is one set of data more correct than another? All this confusion can drive a guy crazy, especially when starting out.
Photo: Massaro Media Group.
Ignore The Internet
Regarding reloading data taken from forums, chat rooms and internet posters—I’ve seen enough absurd claims and ridiculous information that I pretty much ignore it all … and it can be downright dangerous. I’m not sure if some folks think they’re funny, or if they feel their guns are capable of withstanding pressures that the rest of ours aren’t, but my simple rule is not to trust internet data.
Looking at the myriad selection of reloading manuals, you’ll notice there can be a considerable difference in charge weights and velocities for a particular cartridge/bullet weight combination. The short answer is this: A reloading manual is a snapshot in time, of a particular test rifle or barrel, interacting with the other variables in the equation, such as primer brand/type and case brand.
The long answer will need some further explanation.
Barrel Variations
Barrel length can, quite obviously, play a role in the velocities attained with any given combination. It’s generally accepted that each additional inch of barrel, in comparison to the test barrel length, will add 25 to 30 fps to the velocity. The reverse is also true; each inch shorter than the test barrel will reduce the velocity by that amount. Take a good look at the test barrel listed in the data and you may find that the company used a universal receiver and a barrel of extraordinary length. That will, logically, equate to a published velocity figure your shorter barrel cannot equal. I’ve seen so many reloaders turn down a load that produced a bug-hole group just because the velocity was 100 fps or so below the advertised book velocity. Odds are, unless you’re developing a load for true long-range shooting, that variation won’t make much difference in the field.
Barrel dimensions can absolutely play a role in the pressures generated by a particular load. I’ve seen barrels that are both “fast” and “slow,” with respects to the velocities and pressures generated in comparison to published data. I’ve also seen circumstances where two reloading manuals, using data developed with bullets of similar profile and bearing surface, reach the upper pressure/velocity limits at radically different charge weights. The two manuals used similar rifles, the same primers and identical barrel lengths, so the logical deduction would point to a variation in barrel dimension.
In testing the data in two of my own rifles, which shared the same barrel length, I found that one of the manuals—which topped off at the lighter charge weight—simply had to have had a “tight” barrel. The velocities obtained in that manual, in comparison to the charge weights posted, didn’t correlate with what I found in either of my rifles, which coincided more closely with the data published in the other manual.
The point here is there are most definitely variations in barrel dimensions and how they react to ammunition. And that is one of the main reasons why it’s so important to start at the bottom of the test data and work your way upward until you find the velocity or accuracy you desire, at a safe pressure level.
Primer Influence
Primer choice is another factor in the differing velocities and pressures. Most reloading manuals will indicate which brand and type of primers were used in the testing, others may not, depending on how in-depth the data is. Make no mistake: Using primers other than the exact brand and type of those used in the test data can and will result in a variation in velocity and/or pressures. If you must switch primers, start at the bottom of the data once again and work up to ensure safety.
While all three of these are large rifle primers, they’ll give different results. Always check the load data to see the type and brand of primer used. Photo: Massaro Media Group.
Bullet Specifics
Finally, the shape, conformation and construction of the bullet you’re loading can have an effect on your results. Nosler’s reloading manual (which is generously offered online at: Load-Data.Nosler.com) will provide load data for each cartridge by bullet weight. For example, their data for the .308 Winchester and 175- to 180-grain bullets covers eight different bullets. One can easily see the difference in bearing surface between the flat-based 180-grain Partition Protected Point and the 180-grain AccuBond Spitzer boat-tail, and how the two bullets might react differently to the same powder charge. Add in the lead-free options—which are longer than their lead-core counterparts of the same weight—and you can see why the data isn’t all universal.
Pistol bullets can suffer from the same issues; in fact, things can get more complicated when you compare jacketed bullets, plated bullets, lead-free bullets and pure lead bullets. The data certainly changes among the differing bullet types, and in some of the pistol cartridges, the difference in powder weight from the bottom to the top is less than one grain of powder.
Bullets come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and that can change the pressures generated. Two bullets of the same weight and caliber but different shape may have different powder charge weights to attain the same velocity. Photo: Massaro Media Group.
Dote On The Details
Here’s what I feel is the most important part of the whole data game: the meticulous records you keep for your firearm. Just as the reloading manual is a lab report for a particular set of gear, your records are the key to loading for your firearm.
Imagine inheriting your grandfather’s rifle or pistol—which is cool enough in and of itself—replete with his book of load data for that particular gun. Knowing what works, what doesn’t, performance notes, game taken, great days at the range and whatnot, it’ll become a veritable treasure for shooters of future generations.
I collect as many reloading manuals as I can in order to get a feel for the variations in the different tests, to better know what to expect from my rifles and pistols, as well as to keep up on the latest powders and cartridges. I actually enjoy poring over the data in these books, and over the years it has changed the way I look at load data—and it also has driven me to record all of my loading sessions. For my guns, my own reloading manual is as important as anything else in print.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Years of shooting data have shown that the best defensive ammunition uses a hollow point bullet that expands reliably in the target and penetrates sufficiently to reach vital organs. There may be instances where that choice isn't possible, but under most circumstances, the modern hollow point is what's needed.
Since most defensive revolvers are chambered in .38 Special or .357 Magnum, it shouldn't be surprising that the majority of ammo suitable for self-defense is in these two cartridges.
.38 Special:
In .38 Special, the best results seem to come from the mid- to heavy-weight bullets (135 to 158 grains) in +P loadings. When I wrote the first edition, the Speer Gold Dot Hollow Point (GDHP) +P 135 grain stood out. A decade later, renamed “Gold Dot Short Barrel Personal Protection .38 Special +P,” it's still the dominant bullet in the category. Developed initially for the NYPD for backup and off-duty guns, it's racked up many shootings and has performed exceptionally well. Most modern lightweight revolvers shoot this load to the point of aim.
Also, in that first edition, Winchester had a new load called the PDX1 Defender, which was promising. Today, renamed “Defender,” it uses the same 130-grain jacketed hollowpoint bullet in a +P load and has developed a good track record in police backup guns around the country. The bullet is intelligently engineered and has been turning in good performances. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in my own guns.
Today, the new load is Federal's HST 130-grain +P, which is developing a good reputation. It's especially suitable for the new generation of short-barrel, lightweight revolvers.
An older load that has a very long track record of decent (though not outstanding) performance is the 158-grain +P lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoint (LSWCHP). This load has been offered by Winchester, Remington and Federal at various times and has the virtue of being relatively inexpensive and packaged in 50-round boxes. Based on diameter expansion in my testing, I prefer Remington, Federal and Winchester — in that order. The load generally shoots to point-of-aim in older revolvers. It wouldn't be my first choice, but it's still usable. Be aware that some people find the recoil of the heavy bullet to be painful.
.357 Magnum:
The 125-grain hollow point (left) is the usual recommendation in .357 Magnum, but the author prefers the Speer 135-grain load (right).
The .357 Magnum has long been ruled by the 125-grain semi-jacketed hollow point (SJHP) loads from the major ammunition makers. It's the load that defined the .357 as a “manstopper” back in the 1970s and '80s (though recent analysis of shooting data by experts such as Greg Ellifritz casts doubt on that reputation). The 125-grain load has a mixed record; when it worked, it worked very well, but it sometimes expanded far too quickly, leading to shallow and ineffective wounds.
While I don't recommend that most people carry a magnum of any type these days, primarily because of the much greater difficulty in controlling the gun in strings of fire, for those who insist, I suggest a more modern and slightly heavier bullet. Speer makes its excellent 135-grain Gold Dot GDHP in .357, and that would be my pick for its ability to maintain structural integrity in the target. Hornady also loads a 135-grain “Flexlock” bullet in its Critical Duty line, which should also perform well.
Once you move away from those calibers, the pickings get very slim.
.327 Magnum:
The “Baby Magnum” has issues with getting a bullet of sufficient mass to penetrate deeply enough. What's more, the caliber has fallen out of favor since I wrote the first edition, and the only defensive load on the market that I trust is the Speer Gold Dot 100-grain GDHP. To the best of my knowledge, there are still no actual defensive shootings using this load and caliber sufficiently analyzed for us to derive any solid conclusions. The recommendation is still based on seeing the results of gelatin testing.
.44 Special:
This cartridge is the very picture of an on-again, off-again round. There are times when everyone seems to rediscover this old cartridge, and ammunition suddenly becomes widely available, only to disappear as people move on to something else. I've watched this same sequence replay itself several times over the years.
The technical problem with this load is the same as faced by the .38 Special: lack of bullets that expand reliably and penetrate sufficiently. In addition, there are very few defensive shootings on record with this caliber, which further complicates matters.
Today, the .44 Special seems to be “on again,” and there are several loads worth considering. My original recommendation, based on talking with people who use the .44 Special for hunting, is still available: the 200-grain Winchester Silvertip. This round is still the top pick in a relatively narrow field, followed by the 200-grain Speer Gold Dot and the newer Hornady 165-grain Critical Defense (which is very promising, but reliable information on its performance is hard to come by).
.44 Magnum:
“Dirty Harry” notwithstanding, the .44 Magnum is a poor round for self-defense, being overly penetrative and challenging to control for all but the most experienced of handgunners. However, there may be circumstances where you need a revolver that can do double duty for hunting and self-defense against criminal attacks in the field and might be pressed into protective service.
The first preference would be to use one of the .44 Special rounds listed above in such cases. If those aren't available, it's preferable to pick a relatively lightweight (no more than 200 grains) hollow point to limit the round's penetration. My recommendation (and the only one that fits the criteria) is still the Hornady Custom 180-grain XTP load.
The preceding is not intended to endorse anything other than the .38 caliber revolver for self-defense. I'm of the considered opinion that when recoil and terminal effects are considered together, it is still the optimum choice for defensive shooting.
What About +P Ammo?
Remember that hollow points expend some of their energy expanding in diameter, but that energy can't be used to drive the same bullet forward. There is no such thing as a free lunch; if you want the bullet to expand, it will use energy. If there is too little of it to start with, there won't be enough left to carry the bullet on its path.
In those cases, the expanded bullet will stop forward movement too soon, which results in very shallow wounds that don't reach vital organs. As such, you don't find many expanding bullets in standard .38 Special cartridges — there just isn't enough energy to drive a bullet deeply into the target and expand it simultaneously.
The answer is to start with more energy, enough to expand the bullet and penetrate sufficiently. This task is often accomplished with “+P” ammunition, simply a cartridge loaded beyond “normal” pressure. The +P loading boosts the cartridge's energy to accomplish a specific task.
A common misunderstanding of +P loadings is that they're useless since they don't increase power considerably. Here's the thing: they don't need a lot more, just enough to change the performance envelope.
In .38 Special, the best loads are all of the +P variety.
The idea behind the +P load is to add enough energy to reliably deliver an expanded bullet deeply enough to do its job. If a normal-pressure load can't quite deliver that bullet to where it needs to, but a slightly hotter +P version does, then that is sufficient for the task at hand.
It's important to understand that you don't need vast increases in power for defensive applications; you simply need enough power to perform the twin tasks of reaching vital parts and destroying them. Some will argue that it's better to have a more significant reserve of energy on tap than a +P, but everything comes at a price. In the chapters on technique, we'll delve into that concept more.
Ammunition For The Recoil Sensitive
Many people, particularly those with ultra-light revolvers, find that the recoil of .38 Special +P ammunition is too much to comfortably handle. Sadly, there aren't a lot of alternatives; the Special, in standard-velocity loadings, isn't well known as a fight-ending cartridge.
Many “low-recoil” loads are now available in .38 Special, but they all combine a very lightweight projective clad in a tough jacket that generally doesn't expand at .38 Special velocities.
The only choice I can recommend for the recoil sensitive is the old 148-grain wadcutter target load. It actually has some good traits: the flat-nose profile cuts a full-sized channel through the target and retains enough energy to penetrate adequately. The downside of the profile is that it's harder to reload quickly. Some will argue against its use, but it performs better than any round-nosed or fully jacketed bullet in the caliber from what I've seen. It would not be my first choice, except for those cases where +P ammunition is not an option.
What About .22 LR And .22 WMR?
There is no shortage of snobbishness in the defensive shooting world. For instance, most defensive shooting trainers look down on revolvers, and nearly everyone disparages the so-called “pipsqueak” calibers — the .22 Long Rifle and .22 Magnum.
The .22 calibers, more commonly found in rifles than in handguns, are the most prolifically produced ammunition on the planet. It's estimated that some 2 to 2.5 billion rounds of .22 LR alone are made every year.
Given their ubiquity, it's a sure bet that some of them get pressed into use against attackers. And they do. While precise data is sketchy, they are often (though not always) effective in that role.
But should the .22 be considered a viable defensive choice?
First, the good news: a .22, even the Magnum version, will have minimal recoil fired from a revolver. It's much easier to make accurate rapid-fire hits with it than any other caliber (and, it must be said, they're an awful lot of fun on the range). For someone who is genuinely recoil-averse, that's a significant benefit.
The bad news: except in rare instances, the .22 simply isn't as immediately effective as a larger caliber bullet. No matter how adroitly fans of the .22 cartridges try to argue their point, it isn't and never will be.
However, in self-defense, doing something is usually better than doing nothing. And a .22 revolver, even though it doesn't have the reputation of its larger-caliber cousins, is a better tool than empty hands and loud words. While I wouldn't necessarily recommend any .22 revolver as an unqualified first choice, in some instances, it may be the best alternative — if the other choice is to be unarmed.
If you or someone you know is considering a .22 for personal protection, there are a few caveats you should heed. First, most .22 handguns are single-action revolvers; these are never good for self-defense. Their light single-action triggers are a liability in shaky hands, and they're challenging to fire rapidly, which is necessary for the small .22-caliber. Not only that, but they require practice and attention to detail to de-cock safely, should a shot not be fired. If you're considering a .22, stick to the few double-action models available.
Second, choose the heavier bullets in the cartridges. For the .22 Long Rifle, that would be the 40-grain projectiles. In the .22 Magnum, the 45-grain bullets are preferred. Expansion of these smaller rounds will not be significant (and may even reduce necessary penetration), so solid bullets are preferable.
Practice with these rounds should focus on delivering many shots in one volley accurately to the most vulnerable part of the target to maximize the potential of the tiny bullets. That should be achievable by even the most recoil-shy.
Holosun has just released the SCS-MOS micro pistol sight, featuring solar-charging capabilities and a potentially infinite battery life.
First teased at SHOT Show 2022, the Holosun SCS-MOS micro pistol sight is finally available. “SCS” stands for “Solar Charging Sight,” the most distinguishing feature of this optic, and “MOS” refers to its use of the Glock MOS mounting footprint. Holosun designed the optic to seamlessly integrate into the slide of any MOS Glock by matching the slide serrations with serrations on the body of the SCS-MOS. The result is an incredibly low-profile, aesthetically pleasing optic with apotentially infinite battery life.
The solar-charging feature not only supplies the SCS-MOS internal battery with up to 20,000 hours of run time, but also automatically adjusts the reticle brightness according to ambient light conditions. Holosun claims that with this feature, the SCS-MOS could potentially function indefinitely if exposed to enough light before losing charge. If desired, the auto-adjust system can be overridden as well. The optic’s reticle is green, and the user can switch between a 2-MOA dot, a 32-MOA circle or a combination circle-dot. The optic is also mounted low enough that standard-height Glock iron sights can still be used.
Designed for everyday carry, the SCS-MOS is durable as well. It features a “grade-5 Titanium IP67-rated housing,” making it both water and dustproof while keeping the weight at only 1.3 ounces. The large viewing window on the optic has been treated with several helpful coatings as well.
Each SCS-MOS will also come with mounting screws, a manual, a lens cloth and a multitool. MSRP is $435.28 and it is available now.
If your gun is spewing too much fire, a flash hider is the best solution.
For the most part, you find most flash hiders on modern sporting rifles such as the AR-15 and other common semi-automatic rifles.
These semi-auto rifles are typically available with barrels in the 16-inch range. While that is certainly long enough for adequate accuracy and velocity, it leaves something to be desired regarding the fireball found at the muzzle.
Of course, barrels in the 20-inch range are going to have flash as well, but it is not nearly as significant as on short barrels. As you get shorter, flash tends to increase, primarily due to unburnt powder.
Most large-format pistols and SBR’s have a tremendous amount of flash and blast. The latter is often made worse with the addition of a muzzle brake.
The effect of muzzle flash in low light is quite dramatic. Unfortunately, most rifles equipped with brakes actually increase flash and produce a distinct signature, visible from a distance.
It is not uncommon for many muzzle brakes to emit a jet of flame out both sides. While this is cool, it does little to aid in identifying what happened after you fired.
Why You Need A Flash Hider
In a self-defense scenario, especially in the home, a muzzle brake is not necessarily a disadvantage. It can, however, prove a liability if you have not trained to overcome the blast and flash.
A defensive rifle is much better suited with a flash hider in these instances. Managing recoil with these guns is not as important as retaining the ability to see.
A .30-caliber A2 Birdcage flash hider on an AK vs a .22-caliber A2 Birdcage on an AR-15.
Flash Hiders, Mainly a Rifle Affair
While compensators are becoming more common on handguns, it is rare to find any pistol-dedicated flash hiders.
A large reason is the device adds length to the barrel without adding a tremendous amount of function in return. It doesn't control recoil and it doesn't suppress noise. All it really does is make for an interesting hood ornament.
Despite its name, a flash hider does not typically eliminate flash completely–much as a suppressor does not fully suppress the report of a gun. Regardless of the device used, there will always be some amount of flash or noise.
Not All Flash Suppressors Are Created Equal
Different flash suppressor designs dissipate gasses with varying degrees of success. Even if some models look externally similar, there are nuanced differences separating the devices' performance.
Just because it looks like it works does not mean that it will. Even the best flash hiders may work better with one load than it does with another. If you find you have virtually no flash with one factory load, it does not mean you will have the same results with the next one in line.
Best Flash Hider Options:
Standard Military A2
The basic military A2 flash hider has been around for quite some time. It is just about as simple as it gets. All it really does is vent the flash in a semi-circle with the 12 o’clock position being center.
The bottom of this flash hider is solid to prevent the blast from kicking up a cloud of dust if firing prone, the most substantial change from the fully open A1 version.
It doesn’t really look all that advanced, but this little, cheap and reliable flash hider is a solid option and extremely affordable. Some companies make new ones, but they can be found by the dozen in surplus bins at just about every gun show. Expect to pay around $5 for a used one and not more than $20 for a new one.
Yankee Hill Machine Phantom
The YHM Phantom serves as a flash hider and a mount for the company’s line of suppressors. It is a longer flash hider, but it is extremely effective, even in larger calibers and on short barrels.
This may be one of the better flash hiders for shorter .308 Winchester and 6.5 Creedmoor rifles and large-format handguns. While the effectiveness of a flash hider on such types of guns is debated, the author of this article has used one on a 13.5-inch .308 Winchester for over 10 years and there is very little flash, even in low light.
The effectiveness of this simple product cannot be understated, it was way ahead of its time when it was introduced. Yankee Hill makes several types of this mount in various calibers that can accept their suppressors, with choice between a smooth and an “aggressive” end as well. MSRP: $32 // yhm.net
Noveske KX3
A relatively common sub-genre of flash hider is the ‘flash can’ style. The design is essentially a cylinder that traps and dissolves the initial flash at the muzzle.
The Noveske KX3 is designed primarily for shorter rifles, and it performs exceptionally well on anything shorter than the standard 14.5-inch M4 barrel length. Not only does it reduce blast and concussion, but it also aids in reducing recoil and does not generate a tremendous amount of side flash. MSRP: $125-$135 // noveske.com
SilencerCo ASR
An extremely effective flash hider, the ASR doubles as a mount for the company’s various suppressors. Not only is it great at mitigating flash, but it’s very aesthetically pleasing as well.
The slight downside to this model is it is on the heavier side, but this is a necessary part of the design in order for it to accept a suppressor. Directly behind the prongs is a beefier threaded area that interfaces with your suppressor. MSRP: $64.40-$92.00 // silencerco.com
SureFire 3P Eliminator
This is one of the most effective standalone flash hiders currently on the market. It does not function as a suppressor mount and it is relatively simple in terms of design. It is longer than a standard military A2 flash hider, but it is very effective in low-light and dark conditions. MSRP: $99 // surefire.com
SureFire WARCOMP Flash Hider
This SureFire flash hider also works as a compensator and a suppressor mount. In terms of the overall design, it is not any longer than the above 3P Eliminator, but has extra features for only a little bit of added weight.
It is a well-designed and very functional flash hider, though because it is also part compensator there will be some amount of flash behind the prongs. This is a good choice for someone who still wants recoil compensation in their muzzle device. MSRP: $149 // surefire.com
Forward Controls Design 1815 Flash Hider
The main advantage of this design is its compactness. Not only is it similar in size to a regular A2, but it also has some compensating ability as well. For being as small as the 1815 is, it really is an effective design that allows the user to mitigate flash without increasing the overall length, a concern on some other flash hiders. Cost is also very low considering the benefits. MSRP: $50.00-$74.99 // forwardcontrolsdesign.com
Brownells Early 3-Prong AR-15 Flash Hider
Brownells has made a name for itself in the retro market. If you are looking to attempt a replica build from the Vietnam era, it has you covered with replica small parts.
Its 3-Prong is an effective flash hider, but it’s also a faithful reproduction of those found on some of the early military M16 variants. If you are trying to make something historically accurate, this is a great way to go. MSRP: $29.99 // brownells.com
The SpeedStrip, Tuffstrip and other similar products are rubber strips that hold rounds by their rims. (SpeedStrip, like “Kleenex,” is a brand name that's come to be used to refer to any such devices. It's a registered trademark of Bianchi International.) Generically referred to as speed strips, these loaders hold the rounds in a row, so they're flat and convenient to carry.
Since speed strips are only used to insert two rounds simultaneously, they're much slower and more dependent on fine motor skills than speedloaders. To help compensate for their shortcomings, I have a specific way of configuring and using them.
First, carry only four rounds in your strips. Start at the tab end and load two rounds, leave one blank space, and load two more rounds leaving a leftover space at the other end. This setup provides a handling tab at each end and one in the middle.
No matter how you wind up grabbing the strip, you'll have a way to hang onto it and sufficient space to get your fingers in to manipulate the rounds as they go into the cylinder. This makes a big difference when peeling the strip off the rounds after inserting the cartridges into the chambers.
Retrieve the strip (I prefer carrying them in a back pocket or the watch pocket of a pair of jeans) and insert two rounds into adjacent chambers. Again, proprioception is your friend: bring the ammo toward the palm of the hand holding the cylinder, wiggle slightly to get the bullet noses started into the chambers and push the rounds in. Then ‘peel' the strip off the case heads, allowing them to drop the rest of the way into the cylinder.
If time permits, do the same with the other two rounds. I don't shift the strip in my hand; I simply use the heel of my palm to push them into the chambers and then peel off the strip.
Now drop the strip and close the cylinder. You're back in business.
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 excellent concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
