Mexican carry can work in a pinch, but a good holster is key to practical and comfortable concealed carry of a handgun.
I sometimes get belittled by so-called “defensive handgun experts” because I’m fond of stuffing my lightweight Browning Hi Power in my waistband without a holster. This is commonly referred to as Mexican—or appendix—carry. I’m often told this is an inherently unsafe practice because the trigger isn’t covered and it doesn’t provide any retention.
Most handguns aren’t configured well for comfortable and secure Mexican carry. The slim and tapered Hi Power, with its wider-than-its-slide grip, might be the most suited to this method of concealed carry. The key to effective Mexican carry is a sturdy form-fitting belt, like this Galco EDC Holster Belt, that holds the gun firmly to your body and covers the trigger and trigger guard.
Well, this is partly true; the only thing that keeps your gun secure is the tension between your belt and your body. This is a variable tension that’s dependent on what activity you’re currently engaged in. As far as the uncovered trigger, if the gun is shoved in behind your belt so that your belt—and pants—are covering the trigger, I’m not sure what’s going to pull that trigger.
Now, maybe you have gremlins roaming around in your underwear, or maybe—like a fool—you plan to, or will accidentally, stick your trigger finger inside your waist band when you intend to draw your handgun. (If your belt is tight enough to hold up your gun, I’m not sure how that’s possible.)
But aside from gremlins or your own stupidity, you should be OK. For what it’s worth, people negligently shoot themselves by accidentally pulling the trigger when drawing from holsters. Also, one of the most common self-inflicted—holster-related—gunshot wounds occurs when inserting a handgun into a holster that covers the trigger.
One of the most comfortable and convenient IWB holsters is the Galco V-Hawk.
Doing It Right
Now, I don’t think holsterless carry is a better option than a good holster. It is, however, sometimes very convenient. I work from home, which is where I spend most of my time. If I’m simply running a quick errand or meeting my wife for lunch, I’ll shove my Hi Power in my waistband and carry on. If I know I’m going to be out and about for longer periods of time, I use a holster. A good holster is more comfortable for extended carry and does provide a higher degree of retention.
Galco’s Royal Guard 2.0 is an excellent, high-quality and comfortable IWB holster that’s offered for many different handguns.
Also—and this is important—a Browning Hi Power, because of its shape and size, lends itself very well to Mexican/waistband/holsterless carry … maybe more so than any other handgun. The Hi Power just seems like it was made to shove in your belt line. Most other defensive handguns, and especially the micro-nines that are so popular today, are just not shaped right for effective holsterless carry.
By Any Other Name
Now, you may be wondering why they call it “Mexican Carry.” Well, as the story goes, in response to Mexican anti-gun laws, they say many Mexicans started carrying without a holster. Should they come into unsuspected contact with the authorities, this allowed them to easily ditch their gun, leaving no evidence of ever being armed. That makes sense, but I’m guessing that practice has been used by all nationalities, for the exact same purpose, ever since handguns became a thing.
The Simply Rugged Cuda holster is a brilliant design that works well for IWB or OWB carry. This one is made of shark skin.
A more accurate description of this carry method is probably just “waistband carry.” Incidentally, during World War II, French resistance fighters often carried guns with what was called the “OSS string holster” for the same reasons. I’ve never seen any evidence that these brave souls—or Mexicans—experienced self-inflicted gunshot wounds at a rate any higher than folks who carry with a holster.
With that little rant and history lesson taken care of, truth be told, I utilize a holster more than not. The key to practical and comfortable concealed carry of a handgun, especially the itty-bitty ones, is a good holster. I’ve tried a bunch of different holsters, and those pictured here are a few I recommend without hesitation.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
For more information on concealed carry holsters check out:
A quick look at two classic revolver cartridges, .38 Short Colt and .38 Long Colt.
The .38 Long Colt was once the official United States Army revolver cartridge (1892 to 1911). The short version was used mainly in the Colt Army & Navy Model revolver with swing-out cylinder, developed in 1887. The .38 Long Colt was introduced in 1875 as one of several chamberings for Colt New Line, New Police and New House revolvers.
Since it was once a military cartridge, a number of Colt and Smith & Wesson revolvers in this chambering are still around. The .38 Long Colt cartridge can be fired in a .38 Special revolver, but not vice versa.
During the Spanish-American War and the Philippine Insurrection, the U.S. Army found that the .38 Long Colt had insufficient stopping power for combat use. The cartridge was therefore dropped in 1911, in favor of the .45 Automatic. This was the experience that made the military reluctant to adopt the 9mm Luger. However, it was forced to do so in 1985 largely as a NATO-inspired political decision.
Advocates of the smaller caliber admit the superior stopping power of the .45, but they point out that extra weight and reduced magazine capacity are detrimental factors that should also be considered.
The .38 Long Colt is in about the same class as the standard .38 Special loading, but it’s not nearly as accurate or as versatile. Some of the old .38 Long Colt revolvers will accept .38 Special or .357 Magnum ammunition, but never fire these in the old .38s. Firing the .357 Magnum would be particularly dangerous, probably wrecking the gun and possibly injuring the shooter or bystanders.
Remington has recently manufactured .38 Short Colt ammunition. Black Hills Ammunition has recently reintroduced .38 Long Colt ammunition in response to demands from the Cowboy Action Shooting fraternity.
Over/Under shotguns tend to cost a lot of money. But there are some affordable double-barreled gems available nearly any shooter can work into their budget.
There are over/under shotguns out there that cost more than I paid for our three-bedroom brick ranch house in 1961. These would be the likes of Krieghoff, Kolar, Perazzi and others. Similarly, there are used side-by-sides, especially old English types, that in current-day prices can cost as much as a Southern California fixer-upper. This is not about such double guns.
The game plan here is to tell you about several over/unders and a side-by-side that won’t break your bank, melt your plastic or get you in too much Dutch with your spouse. There aren’t too many hunters, upland specialists and waterfowlers who wouldn’t love to see a nice double gun in their gun safe — as well as be proud to carry one come November. So, let’s start with CZ-USA and their flagship hunting over/under shotgun.
CZ is short for the Czech Republic company that the “C” and the “Z” in the company name are too hard for Americans to pronounce, so this is made simple with CZ — with CZ-USA the American importer of their many products. This company’s most traditional and most long-term products have to be their bolt-action centerfire rifles. But CZ also makes a complete line of rifles, plus Dan Wesson handguns and other firearms-related products. CZ’s many shotgun models are imported from Turkey.
But let’s get back to that CZ flagship over/under — the Redhead Premier. Of special interest, this model is not only available in 12, 20 and 28 — each of these gauge receivers is delivered in their own size frame, which means the 12 gauge is made on one size receiver, the 20 on a smaller receiver and on down the line with the 28.
The CZ Redhead Premier features a bright satin receiver, a bit of engraving, as well as a classic-style Turkish walnut stock. Both the 12- and 20-gauge guns come in either 26- or 28-inch barrels, and five flush-mounted screw-in chokes are included — all at a suggested retail of about a grand!
I missed the SHOT Show when the Turkish-made double guns were first introduced, then imported by a company called Armsco — the doubles made by Huglu in Turkey — the same maker that CZ now uses for their double-gun imports. But I did make the next SHOT Show, and the Armsco booth was the first I visited because I had been told of these over/unders and side-by-sides. I was so impressed that I eventually bought five of these doubles.
There’s fine laser-cut checkering on today’s CZ Redhead, a solid 8mm mid-rib (so no brush can accumulate while bulling thickets), a top rib, extractors and pistol grip that does not have a lot of re-curve. Thus, Prince of Wales style on that grip. There are 3-inch chambers in the 12 and 20 CZ Redhead Premiers, with 2¾-inchers in the 28 bore. The 28 come only with 28-inch barrels (probably CZ’s most popular length in all four gauges).
There’s a single extractor instead of ejectors on all gauges — plus the 12, 20 and 28 come with screw chokes.
The length of pull has been updated at 14.5 inches, the drop at comb 1⅜ inches and the drop at heel is 2¼ inches. Triggers are mechanical, and the thumb safety is manual. Weight in the 12 gauge runs an average of 7.7 pounds, depending a bit on density of the walnut. Don’t expect a lot of walnut figure, but do expect wood strength.
What does a $12,000 over/under have over one like the CZ Redhead Premier that costs about $1,000? The Redhead is a hunting gun, though it can be used plenty on any clay target field. Hunting guns are simply not shot all that much when compared to a competition over/under that might be shot 20,000 times per year for decades! I doubt the Redhead will hold up to that type of long-term punishment.
Plus, on a $14,000 shotgun, there tends to be better fit and finish — a higher grade of walnut — as well as many other factors that increase costs. Still, if you're looking for a double gun that you want to hunt with, this CZ Redhead Premier and the others that will follow are definitely worth your consideration.
Sharp-Tail Specs Barrel Length: 28″ Overall Length: 45.75″ Weight: 7.3″ Max Shell Length: 3″ Chambering: 12-guage (20, 28, .410) Length of Pull: 14.5″ Receiver Finish: Color Case Hardened Barrel Finish: Black Hard Chrome Stock: Turkish Walnut Rib: Raised MSRP: $999
Pros
Classic Design with Modern Durability
Gauge-Specific Frames
Versatile Choke System
Cons
Lacks Ejectors
Heavier for a Side-by-Side
While over/unders outsell side-by-sides by a large margin in America, there are those who feel that the side-by-side is the ultimate hunting gun. Many of the old English doubles can sell for over $100,000 — and they’re over 100 years old — so they weren’t made with modern stronger steels. This Sharp-Tail model is made with high-strength steel, and it sells for a pittance in comparison. Regardless, the gun comes with classic lines and classic appeal.
Further, the CZ Sharp-Tail is offered in 12, 20, 28 and .410 — each gauge built on its own size frame. Thus, the 28 gauge weighs only a whisper compared to the 12 gauge. But, even the 12 gauge is no heavyweight at 7 pounds, 3 ounces. All Sharp-Tails come with a 28-inch barrel only and extractors that lift both shells out for easy removal.
There’s a classic feel to these guns with splinter fore-end (though CZ calls it a semi-beavertail) and a semi-pistol grip stock of Turkish walnut. Swing one on an upland bird and your mind will maybe take you back into history 100 years. The 20 gauge and 28 gauge weigh 6.3 and 5.9 pounds, respectively. In my view, these are the gauges to select for upland shooting, and the 12 for waterfowl and turkeys. The .410 CZ Sharp-Tail also weighs in at 5.9 pounds. List price is just under $1,000.
Adding to this model’s appeal is the color case-hardened receiver finish. This is a new receiver compared to CZ side-by-sides of some years back — smaller and lighter, and probably stronger as well — and is forged in one piece. Trigger springs are now coil type. The trigger is a single, selectable one. Fine laser-cut checkering adorns the grip and slender fore-end. Five screw-in chokes are a part of the Sharp-Tail package (though fixed Modified and Full in the .410), and don’t forget the plastic protective case.
Three-inch chambers reside in the 12, 20 and .410, and a 2¾-inch in the 28 gauge. Barrels of both the CZ Sharp-Tail and CZ Redhead are black chromed on the outside (great for corrosion resistance), and inside there's full-length chrome protection. Stock dimensions are 14.5 x 1.5 x 2.25 inches. There’s a raised rib, and the mechanical trigger has a selector for barrel choice. So, if a side-by-side has long been on your “I wanna” list, maybe you better check out a CZ dealer.
Sharp-Tail Deal
Sportsman's Warehouse
$980
Brownells
$950
Euro Optic
$663
Mossberg International Silver Reserve
International Silver Reserve Specs Barrel Length: 28″ Overall Length: 45″ Weight: 7.5 lbs Max Shell Length: 3″ Chambering: 12-guage (20, 28, .410) Length of Pull: 14″ Receiver Finish: Satin Silver Barrel Finish: Matte Blue Stock: Satin Black Walnut Rib: Vented MSRP: $820
Pros
Versatile Choke System
Durable Lockup Design
Comfortable to Handle
Cons
Lack Of Ejectors
Plain Receiver Design
While this over/under no longer has a touch of engraving and a bright coin-finish receiver, the Mossberg International Silver Reserve is still a blast in the field. Once known as the Silver Reserve II, now the International Silver Reserve is an import from Turkey. Yes, the scrollwork is gone, in it place a matte silver receiver. But at the shoulder it remains equally as pleasant and responsive. In my mind, it brings up dreamy ideas of chasing native chukers somewhere in the Middle East.
However, this Mossberg over/under will be right at home whether you're chasing ruffed grouse, Hungarian partridge, pheasants, woodcock, quail, doves — even pest pigeons. Gauge choices run the gamut here — though no 16 bores are offered. May I suggest a 20 gauge? All gauges come with five flush-mounted screw-in chokes that are compatible with Benelli and original Beretta Mobilechokes.
Checkering on the pistol grip and slim fore-end of the over/under is the cut type. The website suggests 7 pounds for the 20 gauge with 26-inch barrels. However, my test 20 hefts 6 pounds, 9 ounces on my digital postal scale. Chambers are 3 inches in the 12, 20 and .410, and 2¾ inches for the 28 gauge. Length of pull is only 14 inches, which is a little short for most of today’s new guns but maybe just right for you. The stock is select Turkish walnut. There’s a vent rib with a front bead. All models models come with extractors, a bit of a regressions in the line, given the Sporting Silver Reserve II 12 gauge came with ejectors.
Full retail price starts at $756, but who pays full retail for most anything these days? I’ve already mentioned melted plastic credit cards and empty cookie jars, but neither need take place with this series of Mossberg International Silver Reserve over/unders.
Lockup is similar to the CZ Redhead Premier — with barrels pivoting on trunnions and a full-width locking bolt that slides forward upon closing to engage lugs milled into the bottom of the monobloc. Further, two recoil lugs milled into the base of the monobloc dovetail into milled-out areas in the bottom of the receiver upon closing, resulting in a very strong lockup. A barrel selector on the safety switch allows choice of the top or bottom barrel. Picture yourself in a field of South Dakota CRP, a Minnesota tangle of wrist-thick aspens, approaching an old apple tree in New England, or watching a pointer quarter back and forth on a Southern plantation of pines with the undergrowth burned over the previous spring — in each scenario you are carrying a Mossberg International Silver Reserve over/under.
Guns.com
$640
Sportsman's Warehouse
$670
Gritr Sports
$619
Savage/Stevens Model 555
Model 555 Specs Barrel Length: 28″ Overall Length: 45.28″ Weight: 6.2 lbs Max Shell Length: 3″ Chambering: 12-guage (16, 20, 28, .410) Length of Pull: 14.57″ Receiver Finish: Black Barrel Finish: Black Stock: Turkish Walnut Rib: Vented MSRP: $769
Pros
Lightweight
Gauge-Specific Receivers
Nimble Swing
Cons
Aluminum Receiver
Extractors, Not Ejectors
Lightweight is the byword when it comes to the Savage/Stevens model 555 over/under because the receiver is not steel but high-strength aluminum alloy — but with a strength-enhancing steel insert at the breech face. Even the 12 gauge hefts only 6 pounds, the 20, 28 and .410 — 5.5 pounds — and each gauge is made to its own specific receiver size. These are the types of guns grouse and woodcock hunters seem to like because they want to carry their upland ordnance in a ready, somewhat port arms position full time … or at least for hours on end. Most of us can’t do that with a 7.5-pound shotgun. The heft of the smaller gauge 5.5-pound Stevens 555 makes such ready-carrying easy.
The 12 gauge comes with a 28-inch barrel — the other three with a 26-incher. Barrels are rigged for flush-mounted screw chokes, with five of them included. The stock is Turkish walnut in a matte finish and the trigger is mechanical. There are extractors instead of ejectors, and there’s a manual safety — meaning the safety does not engage automatically when you open the gun. Lockup is similar to the previously described over/unders; barrels pivoting on trunnions — plus that full bolt based in the bottom of the receiver, and the strength-enhancing recoil lug.
There’s a vent rib with white bead at the muzzle; there are vented side panels, and the barrel wears a matte finish. The receiver and the fore-end iron are deeply blued — almost black. There’s cut checkering on the pistol grip and the fore-end — the latter Schnabel in style.
Mearns quail habitat in southern Arizona is some steep and thick cover. In my experience, they erupt with almost blinding speed — just the situation where a very lightweight shotgun can pay dividends. Why? Because in shooting scenarios like this, the bird’s jump has them already ahead of the barrels. So, the shooter must catch up — thus, the swing-through shooting technique is almost universally required here. The low weight of the Stevens 555 makes catching up easier.
Experienced swing-through shotgunners have a mantra as they are swinging to catch up: “Bum, Belly, Beak,” and “beak” is when they hit the trigger.
Palmetto State Armory
$659
Guns.com
$577
Sportsman's Warehouse
$700
Browning Citori
Browning Citori Specs Barrel Length: 28″ (26″) Overall Length: 45″ Weight: 7.6 lbs Max Shell Length: 3″ Chambering: 12-gauge (20, 28, .410) Length of Pull: 14.25″ Receiver Finish: Polished Blue Barrel Finish: Polished Blue Stock: Black Walnut Rib: 1/4″ vented MSRP: $2,180
Pros
Durable
Variety Of Models
High-Quality Craftsmanship
Excellent Lockup
Cons
Expensive
Heavy
No Recoil Pad
Yes, we are moving up in price range with Browning’s Citori, but this over/under is a worthy consideration as the cost is relatively low compared to the quality, and so many of them have been sold that Citoris are readily available on the used market at less than retail prices. Further, these guns have performed on all the clay target stages — many of them for hundreds of thousands of rounds. So, you can rely on a Citori to hold up long term whether it's new or used.
I’ve visited a number of firearms factories over the years, and most are basically sophisticated machine shops that turn out high-quality firearms. Visiting the Browning factory in Japan, I saw things differently. Sure, there was plenty of “machining” going on there, but what impressed me in that factory was the inordinate amount of handwork that goes into making a Citori.
The Citori is, in many ways, a knockoff of the Browning Superposed. It was made in Belgium for decades. In the early 1970s Browning brass saw the financial handwriting on the wall. Belgian labor costs were mushrooming, and who knows how much the machinery there was aging and in need of replacement. Thus, the move was made to Japan, and the model name went from Superposed to Citori.
For decades now the Browning Citori has become available in a near unimaginable series of models — mainly specialized renditions for trap, sporting clays and skeet. These are more expensive than the basic Citori, but the ensuing paragraphs are devoted only to the Citori.
Today’s basic model is the Citori Lightning — in style similar to the Superposed Lightning — with Lightning-style rounded fore-end and semi-pistol grip. The Lightning model Citori is offered in 12 gauge — and on a smaller, lighter receiver in 20, 28 and .410 — all three smaller gauges based on the 20-gauge receiver and thus of similar weight.
Further, there are Citori models with a steel receiver and those with an aluminum alloy, the latter offering almost a pound in weight reduction — this one dubbed the Citori Superlight. There’s even a White Lightning model with a bright silver nitride receiver. The basic Lightning receiver is richly blued. The current full retail starts at around $2,200. You also get good quality engraving on the receiver and fore-end, engraving that closely resembles the engraving on the old Superposed.
The semi-pistol grip (again think Prince of Wales style) seems to offer quicker, surer gun mounting. Tight re-curve pistol grips are more suited to an already-mounted gun — as in clay target busting. The stock is gloss finished, and the checkering is cut very fine at 24 lines-to-the-inch. There is no recoil pad, which is important to a hunting gun, as less weight is involved with the Citori’s black plastic buttplate. Better balance is maintained, with the average balance point right at the hinge.
That “hinge” is also different in the Browning Citori compared to most all current-day over/unders. Barrels don’t pivot on trunnions but instead pivot on a full-width hinge pin. There’s also the full-width locking bolt and a recoil lug milled into the base of the monobloc that dovetails into a matching milled-out area in the bottom of the receiver — that recoil lug going all the way through the base of the receiver. Check out this square notch in the accompanying photo. This lockup design is extremely strong.
The 12 gauge tends to weigh a tad over 8 pounds with 28-inch barrels. Three screw chokes are included. Barrels are overbored to .74 inch. Chambers are 3 inches in the 12, 20 and .410, and 2¾ inches for the 28. The 12-bore Citori is also offered with 26-inch barrels, but the 20-gauge barrel possibilities are most interesting — 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches! With a 28-inch barrel, the 20 gauge goes 6 pounds, 9 ounces. Both the .410-bore and 28-gauge guns come with either 26- or 28-inch barrels. How about the 12-gauge in Mississippi at one of Nash Buckingham’s favorite waterfowl haunts? If the birds aren’t flying, you can always look down and admire the fit and finish of your Citori.
Want lighter weight? Then go with the Browning Citori Superlight models. These come with the alloy receiver, but the grip is straight and the fore-end features a bit of the Schnabel flare. More money is demanded here, but still a full retail of under $2,400. Other specs include: 26-inch barrels and 6 pounds, 12 ounces for the 12 gauge; and 5 pounds, 11 ounces for the 20 gauge. There are no 28s or .410s in the Superlight renditions. Receivers are bright silver nitride like the White Lightning — so expect even better corrosion resistance than a blued receiver.
Guns.com
$1,300
Sportsman's Warehouse
$1,900
Editor's Note: Elwood Shelton contributed to this article.
Whether you’re a competitive precision rifle shooter or just need to zero a firearm, a shooting bag is one of the most useful and versatile pieces of kit you can own.
Shooting bags, also called bag rests, are exactly what they sound like. Essentially just small bags filled with some sort of media, they act as a gun rest to provide additional stability, precision and support. They can be used as an ersatz bipod or in conjunction with one, but they’re a lot more user-friendly and typically cheaper, too. Heck, the concept is so simple that you could make one with a sock and some sand, and people do. While homemade versions can work fine, they won’t be as nice as what’s available for purchase these days.
They're an incredibly handy accessory to have on hand, but there are a lot of different makers, models and types to choose from. So, let's get into what kinds there are, how you'd use one and what to look for when choosing the best model for your needs. We'll also go over our picks for the 10 best shooting bags on the market.
How Do You Use A Shooting Bag?
The first and most obvious use is as a monopod, meaning that you rest the barrel, handguard or action on the bag to steady the gun.
You can use one in place of a bipod or in combination with a bipod by putting a shooting bag under the butt of the gun. They're great for benchrest shooting at the range, for zeroing firearms and for shooting groups, but they are also incredibly useful in more dynamic environments such as hunting and shooting sports.
Here a shooting bag is being used as a monopod in place of the bipod.
Front bags go under the barrel, handguard or action, while rear bags are designed to support the butt of the gun. There are also all-purpose shooting bags, typically a pillow or pad-like design, that can be used as a front or rear bag as the shooter desires.
Some bags are designed to be used anywhere the shooter can deploy one, be it in the field hunting, off a barricade or obstacle in a competition or off a bench or the ground at the range. Others, however, were designed to specialize in only one type of shooting.
Some are small and light enough to be easily carried in the field, but the smaller they get, the less useful they typically become for shooting as well. The larger ones are easier to use, but more cumbersome to carry. Like all things in the gun world, it’s a tradeoff.
Precision shooters also use rear bags for more than just a rest. By placing the rear bag under the stock, curling your support arm back to grip the bag and squeezing it, you can use the bag itself to refine your point of aim. This trick alone makes a shooting bag an almost indispensable accessory for precision rifle shooting.
Pro shooter Robert Brantley demonstrating the bag squeeze technique at a Vista Outdoor event in Wyoming.
The idea is to use a front bag or a bipod to get the reticle almost where you want it, and then refine your aim to a specific point by squeezing the bag. This will compress the media inside and micro-adjust the rifle on a much finer scale than you’d be able to by just moving it.
How To Choose A Shooting Bag
As with anything else, start with your use case. Shooting bags can be used for both general purposes or specific purposes, and designs vary accordingly. Ergo, know how you plan on using yours.
For example, pillow-style bags can be used almost anywhere, but some bags are made to shoot off a bench, such as the benchrest “X” or “H” bags.
Fill media can also matter in some cases. The most common is polyfill, little chunks of rubber or plastic, and it works pretty well in most instances. Corn cob tumbling media and sand are also common, and you might find the odd small bag with lead shot. Different fill media can give the shooting bag either more or less compression, but that's mostly a matter of the shooter's preference.
A bag that's going to be used in the field needs to resist moisture, so organic material is not the best choice unless the bag and the media are well sealed.
So, consider what you're going to use it for, and look at the fill material accordingly. The more you need good support and structure, the denser the fill should be. Also, consider whether you want a general-purpose bag, a dedicated front bag, a dedicated rear bag or a set of both.
Modern rifle shooters should pay attention to bag height as well. A lot of shooting bags aren't tall enough to keep the bottom of a 30-round AR or AK magazine off the ground, so be aware of the dimensions if you intend to use your bag with 30-round mags. Of course, if you want a smaller bag, you could always just use smaller mags instead.
An Armageddon Game Changer shooting bag used on a barricade. This model also has straps for attaching the bag to a rifle.
Another feature of some shooting bags to consider is the ability to attach it to a rifle. If you plan on using one as a monopod, especially in a dynamic environment, it can be extremely helpful to have one that can attach to the front of your rifle. Different bags have different means of attachment, however, so pay attention to which style your rifle can use. Straps are pretty universal, but some come with other mount styles like M-LOK.
So, with that all in mind, what are some of the best shooting bags currently available?
Made for precision shooters, by precision shooters. The EL-Rx Rear Bag is a pillow-style rear bag with dual adjustable straps, an optional carabiner loop for QD attachment and enough compression to be wedged under a rifle stock.
The nylon fabric shell resists tears, and the fill is Precision Underground's proprietary locking blend for stability. The bag weighs 2 pounds and is easily portable at 6x1x8 inches. MSRP is $85 without the carabiner attachment, and $89 with it included.
The Python is made to shoot off a barricade, irregular surface or rest, with cinch straps to fine-tune shooting position or stiffness. At 4 pounds and dimensions of 8x6x4 inches, it's sized for use as a front bag but can be used as a rear bag as well.
You can choose 1000D nylon with a half-and-half ultralight and heavy fill blend, or waxed canvas with sand fill. MSRP is $49.95 for the standard and $54.95 for the waxed canvas version.
The DeadShot Combo Set from Caldwell is a great, inexpensive, general-purpose set that includes both front- and rear-support bags.
The bags are made with water-resistant 600D polyester fabric, a corn cob media fill and the front bag has a weight of just under 8 pounds. The smaller rear bag weight is not listed. You can get the set for about $40 online with the fill or get them unfilled for $20 and add whatever media you prefer.
Versatile set, can be used for rifles and handguns
Tall enough to use with 30-round mags
Stable, easy to use shape
Cons:
Large, not ideal for field use
No means to attach to rifle
The X-Bag Shooting Rest is a bench rest bag set, including the main X-bag and a detachable pistol rest bag that can be used for handguns or as a rear bag for rifles. The main bag has adjustable bottom straps to set elevation, and textured ears to help hold the gun steady.
The X-Bag Shooting rest is tall enough to use with modern carbines, has a lightweight polyfill and tips the scale at a mere 2 pounds. A more versatile bag set for static environments will be hard to come by. MSRP is $119.99.
Shape is ideal for both bench shooting and use off barricades/obstacles
Cons:
Rifle attachment provision sold separately
Wiebad's Fortune Cookie series features bags with a quasi-rabbit ear shape beloved by PRS shooters, but they’re useful for almost anyone. It can be employed as a rear bag or front rest, and it’s available with a water-resistant 1000D Cordura shell or waxed canvas in both standard and mini sizes.
Polyfill is standard, but Wiebad will make one with a different fill on request. Standard size is 8x7x5 inches with a weight of 6.2 pounds, while minis are 7.5×4.5×6 inches and weigh 3 pounds. MSRP starts at $79.99 for the standard and $74.99 for the minis.
Another good budget offering, CVLIFE offers a lightweight, general-purpose mini bag that won't break the bank with an average price of about $25.
The shell is 1000D nylon, with four choices of color/pattern. The fill is poly BBs but they come in a removable inner pouch if you want to change the fill to something more substantial. The bag includes a carry strap for use as a rear bag or as a loop over the barrel. The bag is 4.13×1.38×5.7 inches and weighs 1 pound with the plastic bead filler.
The Big Front Bag is a tall, heavy front bag perfect for shooting or zeroing any firearm. It has a pyramid shape to minimize wobble, textured ears and a non-skid bottom.
The BFB is 9.5 inches tall at the ears, making it usable for any long gun including modern carbines. The shell is 1000D Cordura, with a coarse-ground walnut fill that's a little more flexible than corn cob media, but it also makes the bag heavy at 13 pounds. The shell is zippered if additional fill is desired. This is a great option for static shooting, but you won’t want to carry it around. MSRP is $49.95.
Armageddon Gear X-Wing Large Enhanced Rear Shooting Bag
Designed as a squeezable rear bag, the X-Wing has an X-shape and a tacky waxed canvas shell to be gripped by the support hand. It’s available in multiple colors and with your choice of a nylon web loop, a QD socket or an HK clip for attachment options. MSRP starts at $44.95.
An affordable front and rear bag set that’s tall enough to use with modern carbines. The rear bag also has two sets of ears, so it can be repositioned as the shooter needs.
It features a woven nylon shell with textured fabric ears and a mid-weight fill. This is a good all-purpose front and rear bag set for a shooter who wants to cover multiple firearm platforms without breaking the bank. The dimensions and weight aren't listed, but it's tall enough to use with modern carbines and 30-round mags. MSRP is $44.99, but it can be found for as little as $30.
Incredibly versatile shape, ideal for most environments
Small and light enough for field use
Straps for attaching to rifle
Cons:
Expensive
The Game Changer is a favorite among top PRS competitors, as it is incredibly versatile. It works on irregular surfaces, off barricades or as a rear bag. The Game Changer has top straps that loop over the action/barrel too, so it can be left attached if desired.
At 9x6x7 inches and a weight of 5 pounds with the standard polyfill media, it's only as big and heavy as it needs to be. The bag is zippered to adjust or replace the fill. Multiple color options are available, and MSRP is $119.95 for standard fill or $169.95 with the SpexLite fill material.
Improve Your Marksmanship:
5 AR-15 Drills That Will Help You Master Your Rifle
A look at the Arrowhead Tactical Apparel ROSE line of dedicated concealed carry clothing for women.
It’s not always easy to carry a gun, especially when engaged in activities that necessitate clothing besides a proper pair of pants. Arrowhead Tactical Apparel is one of the companies trying to solve this problem with its athleisure wear designed from the ground up to allow the carrying of a firearm. The company’s Carrier Shorts and Carrier Joggers have proven very popular with men for this reason, but now women can take advantage as well with the ROSE line following its launch late last year.
Developed in partnership with ROSE by Sig Sauer, the line currently features two colors of ROSE Carrier Joggers (black and gray) and one color of ROSE Carrier Shorts (black). The clothes are functionally identical to the male versions but are instead catered to women’s body shapes and preferences.
Like all of Arrowhead Tactical’s pants and shorts, they enable the wearer to carry a handgun thanks to the internal belt loop system. Once your belt is installed and properly sized, it will keep the pants, an IWB holster and a handgun securely in place. When purchasing a pair, you have the option of adding Arrowhead’s OmniCarry retention belt for an additional fee, but the system is also compatible with most 1.5-inch belts.
Hana Bilodeau, Senior Instructor and Director of Training & Special Events for Sig Sauer, said this about the Arrowhead Tactical ROSE line:
The Arrowhead Tactical Apparel partnership with Rose by SIG SAUER is one that we are very proud of. This line of concealed carry apparel fills a void in the industry for women … Not only are the products fashion forward, but the garments are also made from top quality material. The design and structure provided by using the OmniCarry Retention Belt takes concealed carry retention to a whole new level. As a former federal officer, I am very particular about what I use for concealment products, this line by far exceeds my expectations.
ROSE Carrier Joggers have an MSRP of $87.99 and ROSE Carrier Shorts have an MSRP of $59.99. Including an Arrowhead Tactical belt will increase the price by another $18.
The author explains the difference between Castle Doctrine and Stand Your Ground and how they can affect you if you’re confronted with a deadly threat.
Castle Doctrine and Stand Your Ground (SYG) laws can be confusing, especially when misinformation in the self-defense community is spread by well-meaning people who simply want to abide by the law.
Before we can jump into SYG with both feet, let’s first discuss Duty to Retreat and how this important legal concept applies.
Duty To Retreat
All states have some form of Duty to Retreat statute. Most have no duty to retreat if certain conditions are met, while others have a duty to retreat prior to using deadly force, as long as it’s safe to do so.
For example, in my home state of Michigan, there’s no duty to retreat as long as you meet these four conditions:
1) You are not in the commission of a crime;
2) You are in a place you have a legal right to be;
3) You have an honest and reasonable belief that deadly is necessary; and
4) That deadly force is only to prevent imminent death, great bodily harm and/or sexual assault.
According to the most recent update from the National Association of State Legislatures, 28 states plus Puerto Rico have no duty to retreat from a deadly force attack as long as you are in a place you have a legal right to be lawfully present. A few states require you at least make an attempt to retreat to safety, as long as retreating doesn’t increase your risk of death or great bodily injury.
Skewed Public Perception
Stand Your Ground laws have found their way into the lexicon of the general public through what seems are weekly shootings across the United States. Although the news media try to define SYG, they usually make a poor attempt at explaining these laws, which further leads to the confusion and spread of misinformation.
So, essentially, SYG simply means you don’t have to retreat to safety, or try to escape the deadly force situation, as long as you meet the conditions laid out in your jurisdiction.
However, SYG isn’t quite that simple. If you can retreat, or avoid any fight, why wouldn’t you at least make an attempt to retreat to safety to avoid using deadly force? That said, sometimes using deadly force, or any level of force, requires that you act in the moment because there’s no time to retreat, or retreat alternative.
In Brown v. United States, 256 U.S. 335 (1921), an often-quoted U.S. Supreme Court decision even today, the Court held “that if a man reasonably believes that he is in immediate danger of death or grievous bodily harm from his assailant he may stand his ground, and that if he kills him he has not exceeded the bounds of lawful self-defense.”
Justice Oliver Wendell Holmes, in writing the Court’s opinion stated, “Detached reflection is not required in the face of an uplifted knife.” Therefore, back as far as 1921 (and even farther), we see SYG in the common law and held by the Supreme Court.
Certainly, other case law has developed in the previous 100 years; however, the legal concept has always been there. For the most part, states have codified common law into statutes for their jurisdictions; some make it easier to understand and others have confused the issue. Know the rules and conditions in all jurisdictions you live, work and travel.
How it All Applies to Your Castle
Castle Doctrine is considered an exception to Duty to Retreat. This doctrine, in its most simple form, means that one doesn’t have to retreat from their own home (castle) before using deadly force. Even though you may have a back door exit or could climb out of a window to relative safety, there’s no need to do so.
In 1753, English jurist Sir William Blackstone published his four-volume set titled Commentaries on the Laws of England. England owned many colonies around the world, and the English laws sometimes didn’t make it to these outlying colonies and territories. Therefore, judges were left to make their own law as cases were presented to them. Blackstone’s purpose was to bring consistency of English law to all subjects of the Crown throughout the world.
In so many words, Blackstone opined that a man’s house is sacred and should be the last stronghold of immunity to attack. If someone attacks you in your home, you may defend against their attack with deadly force. That was Blackstone’s belief.
But you must be careful, because you can’t just shoot someone who breaks in to you castle. In most jurisdictions, you still can only defend against deadly force when deadly force is presented to you.
Outlying Factors
There are a few exceptions to the Castle Doctrine that need mentioning.
One exception is if your attacker lives in the same household, or in the house you own but you don’t live there. Think domestic situations. Some jurisdictions require you to retreat, in your own home, if your attacker lives with you, before using deadly force.
Even if you own the home but your ex-spouse has a court order keeping you out, you cannot use Castle Doctrine. What about a guest living in your home with you? Retreat may be required. If a person has a legal right to enter your home (police with warrant, child protective services or spouse), then Castle Doctrine is off the table.
The curtilage of your home is important as well. Some states include the curtilage as part of your home. The curtilage is defined as that area immediately surrounding your domicile. Some states will extend curtilage to the sidewalk or steps that are just beyond your porch, and a few states are very restrictive by only including the porch.
In Michigan, curtilage has expanded in recent years to include the flower bed area, as long as it’s in near proximity to the dwelling. How’s that for confusion? Some states might consider the detached garage as part of the curtilage, while others consider an attached garage as part of the home.
The pole barn or structure on the back forty? Not a part of your home as far as Castle Doctrine is concerned. Some jurisdictions have extended Castle Doctrine to your vehicle and your place of business.
But, you must keep this in mind: You can’t just shoot someone you find in your home. You must still have an honest and reasonable belief deadly force is necessary.
When I give legal lectures in educational environments, people still believe if someone breaks into my house, I can simply shoot them. No, not exactly. Again, in Michigan, people confuse this with our Rebuttable Presumption. Other states have it as well.
A rebuttable presumption means that it’s presumed that you have a legal right to use deadly force, with an honest and reasonable belief, simply because a person is in your home unlawfully, but that presumption can be rebutted by the prosecution if there’s any evidence that shows otherwise.
Such evidence could include a witness, a video camera, security camera or other information that can clearly show you didn’t have an honest and reasonable belief that you need to use deadly force. Video might show the criminal’s hands in the air giving up in the face of your gun. You shoot them anyway. Your self-defense claim just went out the window.
Learn Your Local Laws
So, Stand Your Ground and Castle Doctrine, although similar in some respects, are very different. You must still meet the conditions set forth in your jurisdiction, you must still have an honest and reasonable belief that deadly force is a necessity, the attack must be imminent (no opportunity to retreat), and you can’t claim self-defense if you are in the commission of a crime.
If you can retreat safely, without using deadly force, it’s best to do so. But if your attacker pursues you or doesn’t give you an opportunity to retreat, then you may have to resort to deadly force.
Check your jurisdiction and all those places you work, travel and reside. It’s a lot to consider if you choose to carry a firearm.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
A look back at drum magazines, their pros and cons and why they’ve fallen out of favor for professional and military use.
Drum magazines, those big, round mags that store cartridges in a spiral rather than in a flat stack, have been around for longer than you might realize. While once a relatively common sight in the hands of soldiers around the world, the drum magazine has since largely fallen out of favor with militaries and armed professionals.
There are a few that remain popular on the civilian market for several different platforms (because more bullets is always better when fun is the priority), but drum magazines are now rare compared to box magazines and belt-fed weapons in professional and military settings.
Drum magazines were relatively common during WWII. Here, three Soviet soldiers are holding two PPSh-41 SMGs and a Degtyaryov LMG, all equipped with drum mags.
So, let's talk about drum magazine history, how they work and what you should know before trying to assemble a full kit based around several Magpul D-60s.
A Brief History Of Drum Magazines
The first device that could be considered a drum magazine was designed in the 1850s (patented in 1853 by Charles N. Tyler) as a loading mechanism for revolvers, with the ramrod pushing a paper cartridge from a drum into the cylinder., While noteworthy, and an interesting invention, it’s not quite what we think of when people refer to drum magazines today.
The original Tyler patent, the predecessor to modern drum magazines. Photo: Google Patents.
The first truly modern drum magazine emerged in the early 1900s with the 32-round “snail magazine” (Schneckenmagazine) for the Luger P08. Typically issued with the longer-barreled, shoulder stock-equipped Artillery Luger, these saw combat during WWI.
Officially called the LP08 (Lange Pistole, for the 7.9-inch barrel), it saw some service with artillery crews, the Luftwaffe and occasionally with some infantry units, but these primordial pistol-caliber carbines otherwise saw limited use. However, the drum magazine itself was also used by the MP 18 submachine gun at the end of World War I and again in World War II.
The most common use of drum magazines from that point forward was with submachine guns, although they’d be developed for rifles and machine guns as well.
The Soviet PPSh-41, the Finnish Suomi and the Thompson are some prominent SMG examples. The Thompson was originally designed to use either a 20-round box magazine or a 50-round drum magazine, though 100-round drums would eventually be made as well.
Outside of submachine guns, even historically, the use of drum magazines has been more limited. Some early machine gun designs such as the Lewis Gun and the Degtyaryov used a variation of the concept known as pan magazines. In the 1960s, drums got another boost of life when the Soviets developed and started widely issuing them with the RPK (the light machine gun version of the AK).
Past the RPK, the development of new drum magazines became a rarer and rarer sight. The Soviets didn’t even issue a new version of it for the RPK-74 after switching to 5.45×39, opting for larger box magazines instead (although a new 5.45 drum mag was developed in 2016 for the RPK-16, it's yet to be widely issued). As it stands today, when it comes to the firearms used by modern militaries and armed professionals, box mags and belt-feds have firmly secured their place as the global standard.
How Does A Drum Magazine Work?
There are a few different designs of drum magazines, but in almost all cases the basic mechanical principles remain the same.
Rather than being stacked next to each other in rows of either one, two or more as what happens in traditional box magazines, in a drum magazine, ammunition is instead coiled in a spiral inside the mag’s body.
This rear view of a loaded Beta C-Mag with a transparent back gives a good idea of how bullets feed through a drum magazine. Photo: Wikipedia.
To load, the magazine is (usually, but not always) disassembled, and the ammunition can be individually placed into their proper positions. The magazine is then reassembled and the user winds the spring until set to the desired tension for proper feeding. Again, some of the more modern designs can be loaded like a normal magazine without disassembling or winding.
When firing, the spring tension pushes on the follower to feed ammunition towards where it can feed into the firearm, just like a normal magazine.
Some drum magazines have a feed tower like a conventional box magazine but others do not.
The aforementioned pan magazine variant essentially functions the same way except for the orientation of the bullets (the rounds face the center of a pan magazine rather than being parallel with the firearm’s action). This difference is why guns that use pan magazines can typically only use pan magazines, whereas most guns that use traditional drum magazines can also use box magazines since both designs feed rounds in the same direction.
A loaded Lewis Gun pan magazine. Photo: Wikipedia.
Why The Military Doesn't Use Drum Magazines
Militaries generally don't use drum magazines anymore for two main reasons:
They’ve historically proven to be less reliable than traditional box magazines or belt-feed systems
They actually decrease the total ammunition loadout that an individual soldier can carry.
Consider this for a moment.
The PMAG D-60 (Magpul’s 60-round 5.56 drum magazine for ARs) is 7.4 inches tall and about 4 inches wide at its thickest point. Fully loaded, it weighs roughly 46 ounces.
One Gen 3 PMAG, more or less the gold standard for AR-15 magazines, is 7.5 inches tall, 3.1 inches front to back and just under an inch wide. Fully loaded, they weigh about 16 ounces.
One D-60 occupies the space of three 30-round PMAGs and weighs about the same to boot. In terms of the total amount of ammunition compared to the space the mag takes up, the D-60 provides 60 rounds for the price of 90. That may not matter for plinking at the range, but if you have to carry your own supply of ammunition, that makes a huge difference. And that doesn’t even take into account the awkward shape of drum magazines that prevent them from easily being stored in pouches.
The same size comparison made above but with a 75-round drum and three 30-round 7.62 AK mags. The point remains the same, the three box mags combined hold more rounds and are much easier to carry.
Even though Magpul’s drum magazine is relatively new in the grand scheme of things, this problem isn’t.
Thompson 50-round drum mags occupy more space than three 20-round box magazines. While Thompson drums were issued by the U.S. Army and the U.S. Marine Corps in the 1920s and 30s (including some action in the Banana Wars, among other limited engagements of the period) they were not widely issued in World War II and only saw limited use in the early years. Instead, as the Thompson was refined into the M1 and M1A1 models, the Army removed the ability of the guns to accept drum mags at all.
Another common complaint regarding drum mags was the noise they made in the field. Unlike box magazines, where cartridges are mostly held tightly in place by the spring tension, cartridges are held much more loosely in a drum. When you walk, they rattle.
Further, while most of the commonly used drum magazines of the 20th century were reliable enough, they were never as reliable as the tried-and-true box mag.
Mechanically speaking, pushing something in a straight line is easy. Pushing bullets in a spiral is not as easy. This simple principle will always prevent the best drum mags from being as reliable as the best box magazines.
Failures to feed have classically been the biggest issue plaguing drum magazines, along with the additional requirements for maintenance, loading and so on. It's just easier to deal with box magazines, and they tend to work a heck of a lot better, especially on the scale that militaries operate on.
So, while some very good drum mags have been designed and used to great effect over the past century of warfare, the lesson learned seems to be that their downsides outweigh their benefits enough for the concept to be mostly abandoned. If sustained fire is your goal, belt-feds are a much better solution.
Pros And Cons Of Drum Mags
While the pros and cons of drum mags are the same for both militaries and individual recreational shooters on the surface, the context for their use completely changes things. When your life isn’t on the line, a minor hit to potential reliability is acceptable. When you don’t need to haul your own gear for miles, weight and bulk are irrelevant. When shooting is your hobby, cleaning and maintaining a more complicated device isn’t the end of the world. Point being, a drum mag can still be an excellent thing to have on hand for today’s modern shooter.
For plinking at the range or participating in the appropriate competitions, there are some well-made modern drum mags available for ARs of various calibers, 10/22s and PCCs. Most of these are generally considered to be reliable, and when working properly they could definitely save you a reload and some seconds when on the clock.
A CZ Scorpion EVO in 9mm equipped with a Magpul PMAG D-50 drum magazine.
For AKs, military surplus drums are considered the best quality, especially top-loaders from Russia or Romania. The commercial reproductions from China are usually more finicky, but even they can run well enough for range fun.
If you have an old-school AR-15, a Beta C-Mag can also be an excellent complement to enhance its retro vibes. Most other relatively common guns in question that can accept a drum mag are either original historical firearms or reproductions, such as the Thompson. If you own something like that, you might as well pick up a drum mag too just to complete the package.
A Romanian top-loading drum magazine for 7.62 AKs. A fun toy, but not very useful.
Historically, a common trend of civilian firearms is that they take inspiration from what the military is using. In the case of drum mags, it’s generally a good idea to follow suit. Given the number of guns equipped with drum mags that were developed and used in the past 100 years, nobody can say that the concept didn’t get a fair shake. They were tried, saw some success, but ultimately didn’t offer any benefit great enough for them to live on in a world of box mags and belt-feds. If you’re considering buying one for practical purposes, especially relating to defense, you’ll be better off with a box mag. Even extended models will be more reliable than a drum.
If plinking, LARPing, collecting or competing is your aim, however, drum mags can still be very fun. Plus, if nothing else, their existence helps to ensure that 30 rounds is the definition of standard capacity.
Vortex Optics has just launched its first eyewear, featuring two styles of glasses that offer protection from both the sun and the dangers of the range.
When you’re around gunfire, you need to be wearing ballistic eye protection. Everyone who shoots steel targets with handguns has felt some shrapnel come back at them before. When it’s in the leg, no problem, but you don’t want that hitting your eye. When it comes to shooting safety glasses, however, not all offer protection against the sun as well, and even fewer look good while doing it. Vortex Optics has decided to try and tackle all three at the same time with its new line of Jackal and Banshee eyewear.
The Vortex Eyewear line currently features two styles of glasses, each available with your choice of lens color. The Jackal is more of a sport or wraparound style, and the Banshee is more of a classic wayfarer style. Whichever model suits you better, both offer the same benefits. Primarily, that includes shatter-resistant lenses and construction featuring ballistic-rated materials to protect your eyes at the range. For comfortable use while shooting, they also have anti-reflective properties, a non-slip bridge and temples and they’re designed to be worn with earmuffs. And, of course, the scratch- and smudge-resistant lenses are polarized and offer 100% UV protection.
Both styles of Vortex Eyewear are available now and share an MSRP of $179.99. Each pair will also ship with a protective case and a microfiber cloth and are backed by Vortex’s lifetime VIP warranty.
For anyone who enjoys working on their AR-15s without marring the finish, the Midwest Industries Lower Receiver Block is a great tool to have.
Handling an AR-15 lower—while also assembling it, tightening something or just making it behave—can be a hassle. Midwest Industries (MI) has a solution, and their lower receiver block serves you in two ways.
First, you can simply slap the block down on your workbench and fit the receiver into it, nestled in place. It’ll stay put while you install the hammer and trigger pins and the trigger guard, even making it stay put while you hand-screw the buffer tube in place. (You’ll need more than the MI block to do the torquing and staking.)
While you’re doing this, the smaller section of the MI block has a recessed tray, where you can put the small parts you’ll need. No worries about them rolling off the bench or getting bumped by an inadvertent sleeve or put-down screwdriver. Nope, they’re safe in the recess.
If you want to view the interior as you install the fire control parts, you can. Simply take the block and slide the narrower part up into the magazine well. Yes, it’s shaped like a magazine for a reason. Now, clamp the bigger part of the MI block in your vise. You can now work on the lower, install and inspect as they function, or the fire control parts, without having to juggle the receiver in one hand while working with the other.
The Midwest Industries receiver block handles a lot of tasks and does so without risking marring your receiver.
Being bright blue, it won’t glare in your shop lights, but it also won’t let parts hide, as a black or dark material might. Also, as a relatively soft polymer, it won’t ding your lower or mar the finish. I know some of you want to keep your build as pristine as possible. (Some of us use our rifles.)
As if all this wasn’t enough, MI added one more function: a gas block gas tube installation recess. The hard part of getting a gas system assembled can be getting the blasted tiny roll pin driven into the gas block, with the gas tube in place.
I dare you to find a non-marring position in your bench vise to clamp the block in, with an orientation of the gas block that allows you to drive the pin in. I’ve been wrestling with AR-15s for 35 years now, and that’s the part I hate the most.
The block is designed to work with forged receivers, so if you have a milled one, it might not be as nice a fit as MI intended it to be. They offer it in AR-15 and AR-10 sizes in one color: blue. Now, I’ve been wrestling with AR-15s for so long that I have some bad habits. I’ve found workarounds to get things done … doing them without fixtures. But I’m going to have to add this to the AR-15 toolbox, because it’s so useful for the things it does that it earned space in the kit.
Forty bucks may seem like a bit much for “a simple piece of plastic,” as one person I showed it to commented, but don’t be fooled: Not 5 minutes later he was asking to borrow it.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
If you’re a fan of double-action/single-action 9mm service pistols, you owe a lot to the Walther P38.
The Walther P38 was the Wehrmacht’s less expensive replacement for the iconic P08 Luger pistol. The P08 was reliable and well-liked by the German Army, so you might assume that a cheaper gun would suffer from lower reliability or generally worse construction. Of course, this wasn’t the case.
While Walther may have primarily set out to design a pistol that would be cheap and efficient to mass-produce, the company ended up developing what would become one of the most influential handguns of the 20th century.
Not only did the Walther P38’s construction utilize manufacturing techniques that were then considered nontraditional, like a stamped steel slide cover and polymer grips, but also innovative features like a double-action/single-action trigger, a decocking safety lever, a loaded chambered indicator and large combat sights. These would soon become incredibly common features on pistols following WWII. Between that period and the advent of polymer-framed striker-fired pistols, DA/SA hammer-fired guns reigned supreme, and the Walther P38 was the first of that description to be adopted as a standard military sidearm.
Even today, plenty of Walther P38s are still in use, and all things considered they remain quite an effective choice compared to many other surplus military pistols of its era. There are obviously more modern options available now, but the P38 continues to see use around the world along with more modern pistols that were heavily inspired by it.
Walther PP On Steroids
Development of the Walther P38 took about six years and started in 1932 when the German Army began looking for a replacement for the P08. The Luger is a machinist’s nightmare, featuring metal parts that need to be hand-fitted. This results in more time spent producing the pistols, making each one more costly in terms of both money and time efficiency.
Walther introduced the PP (Police Pistol) in 1929 and it almost immediately became one of the most popular handgun choices for European law enforcement, both inside and outside of Germany. The PP itself was an influential design and was the first truly commercially successful double-action pistol produced. The PP used a simple straight blowback action, a double-action/single-action trigger and a decocking safety lever located on the slide. The German Army liked the 9x19mm cartridge, so Walther figured it would just scale the PP up to 9mm and everything would be wunderbar for the Wehrmacht.
The PP is chambered for .32 Auto or 7.65mm Browning as it is called in Europe. Walther super-sized the PP and called it the MP/PP, a gun that was nearly identical to the PP but chambered for the larger 9x19mm cartridge. While the idea sounded good on paper, in practice, the 9mm cartridge was too powerful for a simple blowback mechanism.
The next design was also called the MP or Military Pistol, but it used an entirely different mechanism in the form of a locked breech, a system that was much better suited for the powerful 9mm cartridge. Features included a shrouded hammer, an open bridge slide design and an extractor located on its top. Only a handful were built because the slide tended to jump off the frame when fired. Not a desirable trait.
It was back to the drawing board for Walther, and by about 1935 the design had evolved and now featured a bridge on the front of the slide to keep it from jumping out of the rails. This model was called the Armee-Pistole or Army Pistol, but collectors refer to it as the AP following the naming convention Walther used previously. The AP used a similar mechanism to the previous MP. Some features of both the MP and the AP eventually made their way into the P38 design such as the slide stop and take down lever. Since the AP was again more of a research and development gun, very few were produced. The AP still didn’t cut the mustard as far as the German Army was concerned, so work on the design continued.
The next revision reverted to the MP nomenclature and changed the shrouded, enclosed hammer to an exposed, round hammer. The extractor was moved to the left side of the slide giving the new and improved MP that characteristic flat-sided slide found on the final Walther P38. At this point, the design was almost completed.
Commercially Known As The HP
The HP or Heerespistole was the next and final iteration. This model incorporated a spur hammer instead of a rounded hammer, and the extractor on the HP was now exposed instead of hidden under the slide like on the second model MP. The polymer grips fit together to form the rear backstrap which saved on the steel for the frame. The HP was the first pistol of this line to become available for commercial sales and military markets, and it would soon be tested by the German Army and quickly adopted and formally renamed the P38 in 1938. Sweden adopted the HP as the M39 pistol in 1939 as well. Some 24,000 to 30,000 HP pistols were sold on the commercial market before World War II broke out and Walther shifted all production to military needs.
The mechanisms of the HP and P38 pistols are identical. They are virtually the same gun aside from their roll marks and a few minor differences like grip material. That said, the P38 would feature multiple different grip styles over its production life.
How Does The Walther P38 Work?
When the P38 is fired, a wedge-shaped falling block keeps the slide and barrel locked together until enough pressure has dissipated to allow the slide to reciprocate safely rearward. The locking block stops barrel movement and allows the slide to continue rearward to eject the empty case and cock back the hammer. Dual recoil springs return the slide forward to chamber a round. This system is different than most other pistol designs today which typically use a Browning tilting barrel action.
A field-stripped P38 and its holster.
The 9mm P38 feeds from an 8-round single-stack magazine. Unique to the P38 at the time was a loaded chamber indicator. A metal pin protrudes from the rear of the slide when a round is chambered, providing both visible and tactile indications. The decocker safety located on the slide allows the user to decock the hammer and safely carry it with a round in the chamber.
Another important feature of the Walther P38 is of course its double-action/single-action trigger. While this became an incredibly common attribute of military handguns post-WWII, it was the first widely issued service pistol to include it. The pistol’s sights were very ahead of their time as well. Larger than average and offering a good sight picture, they’re definitely faster to use than most tiny military handgun irons of the era. The magazine release is located on the butt of the grip and the left grip has a metal loop to attach a lanyard.
Wartime P38 Production
By the end of WWII, over one million P38 pistols had been manufactured. While Walther had the highest output, it was not the only factory to make them as Mauser and Spreewerk were contracted to do so as well.
This P38's factory code “ac 42” means that it was made at the Walther factory in 1942. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.
During the war, manufacturers were assigned codes to confuse the Allies where production was located. Walther produced the initial run of pistols using the Walther logo from 1937 to about mid-1940, at which time Walther switched to its military “480” identification marking during production from mid-1940 through October of 1942. After, Walther used the code “ac” until the end of the war. Mauser used the code “byf” and Spreewerk used the code “cyq”, although there were some other codes used near the end of the war as well. The codes are roll marked on the left side of the slide, and on Walthers and Mausers this was usually followed by the year of production. This means that a pistol marked with “byf 43” is a Mauser made in 1943. If trying to identify a P38 yourself, there are more detailed guides available in books and online that will cover the nuances and caveats not mentioned here.
Postwar WWII P38 Production And Variants
After the war, West Germany’s Bundeswehr geared up again with the P38 after Walther retooled and rebuilt the factory out of the rubble of WWII. Postwar P38 production ran from 1957 to 1963.
In 1963, Walther launched the P1 model which replaced the steel frame with an aluminum one and introduced a few other small changes. Commercial P1 guns were produced in 9mm as well as .30 Luger and .22 Long Rifle, and they were also manufactured by Manurhin in France under license. Amazingly, Germany did not start replacing its P1s until the 1990s, a testament to the original design that let it remain in service as a viable military sidearm for nearly six decades.
A P4 variant was produced in the late 1970s with a shorter 4.5-inch barrel and several other minor improvements. This gun was issued to various German law enforcement agencies, but it was only created as a stopgap measure and produced in relatively small numbers as the more advanced Walther P5 was already in development.
One rare and unique variant of the P38 worth mentioning is the P38K, which features an abbreviated, snub-nose barrel with the front sight attached to the bridge of the slide. The “K” in the model names is an abbreviation of the German word “kurz” which translates to short. Walther used the same naming convention for the PPK, the smaller version of the PP.
Not only did the Wehrmacht use the P38 on all fronts during WWII, but it was also issued to the Gestapo and many units of the SS. The P38 performed well and was extremely popular with troops. Not only was the P38 reliable and more rugged than the P08 it replaced, but it was much easier to disassemble and maintain. What the P38 lacked in sleek looks, it made up for in performance. American GIs were not familiar with a pistol like the P38, as the double-action/single-action trigger was odd and foreign compared to the revolvers and single-action 1911s they were accustomed to.
An American soldier holding a German officer and his first sergeant prisoner with the officer's P38.
Dozens of different countries would go on to use the P38 after WWII, resulting in the pistol seeing action in several of the conflicts that followed. American soldiers in Vietnam would encounter the P38 as captured guns were given to the North by the Soviet Union as military aid, and the pistol showed up in many conflicts in the Middle East as well.
Collecting the P38
GIs returning home from WWII brought back battlefield pick-up P38s as souvenirs. These guns have no importation marks and have a higher value than guns that do have import marks. If you plan on collecting P38s from WWII, you’ll typically find pistols that are very well-worn or nicer examples that were refinished by the Soviet Union after being captured. That said, the few out there that still have their original finish in excellent condition can fetch a very pretty penny. The finish on wartime production guns is usually lower than the quality of pre- and post-war guns, and quality worsened as the war went on. P38s from 1940 will have been made with a lot more care than what Germany could afford by 1945.
There are many very wealthy collectors out there with an interest in WWII German firearms, so original P38s naturally fetch incredibly high prices. Value depends on factors like the manufacturer, condition, rarity and provenance, but regardless, you should be prepared to pay over $1,000 if you’re interested in even an average example of WWII vintage. If you’re looking for a shooter rather than a safe queen, look for mismatched serial numbers or just consider buying one that was produced after the war.
Surplus P38s
After WWII, large quantities of P38s were captured by Soviet troops and shipped back to Soviet arsenals for refinishing. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, many Soviet-captured P38s were dumped onto the U.S. commercial surplus market. Most of these pistols have been refinished and have mismatched serial numbers, and they often have “X” marks over the old serial number and other German markings like swastikas removed or stamped over. Beware if a WWII P38 looks too pristine at first glance because there’s a good chance it's a refurb and not in original condition. With that in mind, even a Soviet-captured refinished P38 will be more valuable to collectors than one produced after the war’s end.
A Soviet captured and refurbished P38. Notice the large X mark on its side. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.
By comparison, P1 variants are widely available on the surplus market. Many of these guns were used by European law enforcement before being imported into the U.S. These do not have nearly the value of wartime P38s, and you can still routinely find them for $500 to $800. Some even come with a surplus holster and extra magazines. I picked up a P1 for a song a few years back, but like all surplus, prices rise as supplies dry. If you want one, buying sooner is better than later.
The P38 Lives On
Many of the features of the Walther P38 would go on to influence successful pistols designed after it, but the gun most directly inspired by it is of course the Beretta 92, later adopted by the U.S. Army as the M9. Other guns would merely take inspiration from the P38 with features such as a DA/SA trigger and the use of stamped sheet metal and polymers in their construction. Its 9mm chambering has also obviously become the global standard for handgun cartridges. Frankly, the single-stack magazine is the pistol’s most dated design aspect. If a P38 was all you had access to, it still would be a very effective pistol for personal defense.
If you’ve never shot a P38, you should, as that’s the only way to truly understand just how modern it still feels for a design that’s over 80 years old.
More Classic Military Guns:
Why The Mauser C96 “Broomhandle” Still Looms Large
A look back at the Greener, because nothing gets a young shotgunner’s attention like touching off both barrels—simultaneously!
The first shotgun I ever fired was a 20-gauge J. C. Higgins single-barrel single shot. It belonged to the wife of a close family friend, one of two hunting and shooting mentors I had as a kid. I believe Stevens made the gun, but back then, it was marketed under the J. C. Higgins label by Sears, Roebuck and Company.
As was typical of that type of single-barrel shotgun, it was very light and gave a healthy jolt with standard loads. So, to offset the recoil, my mentor loaded a few cartridges with about half an ounce of shot and reduced powder. In short, he made .410 loads in 20-gauge hulls. I shot at a tin can about 15 yards away; it was the first time I fired a shotgun. It was a good thing that it hardly kicked since, at age 12, I wasn’t a large kid. I was kind of scrawny, about 90 pounds soaking wet!
A few months after shooting the powder-puff 20 gauge, I shot a regular 12-gauge load at a live target. I was out with an uncle, my other childhood mentor, hunting. We had been after partridge and drove to one of his “secret” spots after an unsuccessful hunt in one area. While driving, my uncle suddenly stopped and pointed at a tree about 30 yards away. A crow sat on the top branch. We exited the car, and he assembled his shotgun from its case, a W. W. Greener 12 gauge with double triggers and side safety.
This FH25 is like the old Greener the author’s uncle owned. That gun had the original horn buttplate, and the wood showed just a bit more grain. Otherwise, this one is like that old gun.
He loaded both barrels with those wonderfully aromatic waxed green paper Remington Express loads with round yellow paper stickers on the crimp marked with the shot size. He checked to ensure the gun was on safe, then handed it to me and said to aim, take it off safe, and shoot. If I missed with the first barrel and the crow started to fly off, I was to pull the rear trigger for the second barrel. He reminded me to “lead” the crow if it was flying. Eagerly, I took the gun from his hands and attempted to do as I was told. I aligned the bead on the crow and took the safety off. Then I pulled the trigger, or at least I thought I had pulled the front trigger, but apparently, I did more than that.
The shot was thunderous and almost knocked me off my feet! I missed entirely, and the crow disappeared before I could shoot again. My uncle laughed as I stood there somewhat dazed, staring at the Greener that kicked like a mule. He took the gun from me, thumbed the top lever, and popped two empties. In my excitement, I pulled both triggers at the same time. It was quite a shock, and I never repeated that mistake.
This Greener Model F35 has rather nice wood, nothing spectacular, but nicely grained.
I later shot that wonderful Greener more successfully, pulling one trigger at a time. I discovered that it did not have a vicious kick at all. I often shot those mild, maroon-colored, low-base Remington Shur-Shot loads, and the recoil was minimal. It was a game gun and weighed about 61/2 pounds, the same as my uncle’s other game guns. My uncle was a wealthy man and a hunting fanatic who owned many shotguns, all 12 gauges. As far as he was concerned, the 12 gauge was the only bore size worth shooting. He owned a successful company, and he concentrated on hunting for about four months each year during the hunting season. During that time, he rarely visited his office except in emergency cases, leaving the company business in the hands of his deputy.
He used to jokingly say that if Clark Gable, the reigning “King of Hollywood” at that time, could take off during hunting season, so could he. (Gable was famous for having a clause in his contract with MGM Studio that specified he would not make any movies during hunting season.) My uncle may not have been the “King of Hollywood,” but he had his priorities straight.
It was from this uncle that I learned about fine English and European doubles. He had a Purdey, a Holland & Holland, and some fine Belgian guns, including a Jules Bury, which he said was as good as any English Best Gun. However, despite all these guns, it was apparent that he preferred to shoot the Greener. The two guns he shot the most were the Greener and a Belgian boxlock “Guild Gun” with no name, which he told me Francotte made. He didn’t shoot his Best Guns with finer pedigrees as much.
Many years later, he surprised me with his generosity and presented me with one of his prized guns, the Holland & Holland. It was a beautiful Royal Model, and I was grateful for this unexpected and priceless gift, but to be honest, I secretly wished it had been the Greener instead. There was something about that old Greener that made it special. The Holland & Holland was a superb gun and felt like a magic wand in my hands, and it came in a fancy oak and leather trunk case. But I had never shot it before and hadn’t developed the connection and feeling I had for that old Greener. The Greener felt solid yet light and like magic, at least for me. That was many years ago, and much time had passed since that Greener gave me such a wallop.
I still remember that Greener very well. Its trigger guard tang, worn white, had the serial number followed by “Grade FH25” engraved. The bluing on the barrels was thin, especially in front of the forearm, where it was held by the forward hand. The color casehardening on the receiver was gone entirely, making the receiver appear to have a pickled gray finish. The barrel flats were stamped with Birmingham proof marks and 2¾ inches and 1¼ ounces. Both barrels were stamped “choke,” but my uncle told me that the left barrel was “half choke” while the right was “quarter choke.” I knew, from reading articles about shotguns, that “half choke” meant modified and “quarter choke” was improved cylinder. The stock, though not fancy, was attractive with lightly grained wood and had that distinctive Greener trademark rounded Prince of Wales grip, which was almost a straight grip, and it had a horn buttplate. The wood finish had numerous scratches and minor dents but was otherwise still in good shape.
The Greener in two parts.
I cleaned the gun thoroughly each time after shooting and lightly oiled everything. I would then slip the barrels with its forearm and the receiver with its stock into their frayed, oil-stained red flannel cloth sleeves. Then, I would put the two parts into the much worn and scuffed old leather leg o’ mutton case in which it was kept. The top lid of the case was stamped “W. W. Greener, Ltd” with an image of an elephant, a Greener trademark. My uncle kept his other guns in the cabinet, but there was no space for all his firearms, so the Greener and several others stayed outside. Besides, he shot the Greener the most, so he kept it handy.
Through the years, I have owned a couple of Greeners. I once had a worn-out Empire-Grade Greener that had belonged to an old duck hunter who shot it every duck season for over half a century. I got the gun more for sentimental reasons than actual use, and it was pretty beaten up, badly off-face, and its side safety did not work. It had consumed its share of heavy loads, perhaps too many. I kept it for a while, never actually shooting it before trading it for something else. I also had a very early Damascus-barreled high-grade Greener that was a nice gun and proofed for 23/4-inch loads, but it was not quite to my liking, so it also left my house.
My current Greener is an FH35, a grade higher than that old one I shot as a kid. According to Greener records, it was made “between the wars” for sale in America with its factory single selective trigger and 26-inch barrels. It is a light upland gun, a few ounces lighter than my uncle’s old Greener, and being a grade higher, slightly finer with more engraving and better wood on the buttstock. It, too, has the shallow, rounded wisp of a Prince of Wales grip on a very nicely grained stock with dark streaks.
This 12-bore Greener is light at 6 pounds, 4 ounces, as light or lighter than most modern 20 bores. It makes for an excellent upland gun with its 26-inch barrels and open boring.
I suspect it was initially purchased by a grouse and woodcock hunter or a bobwhite enthusiast. It came to me in an old, restored canvas and leather Brady case. I don’t know whether the case was initially purchased with the gun, but the shotgun is nicely fitted to the case, which has been relined with new fabric.
The Greener I own today is not a Best Gun. It is a Birmingham boxlock, albeit a very lovely graded model. But, just as my uncle of long ago seemed to prefer his old Greener over other, more costly and pedigreed guns, I too like this Greener a lot. It is choked cylinder in the right barrel and modified in the left, an excellent combination for upland gunning. I haven’t shot it much, not as much as I once shot my uncle’s old FH25. But I did take it out after quail and dove a few times, and it did its job perfectly, as long as I did my part.
Since my introduction to shotguns with my uncle’s old Greener gave me such a violent jolt, I have always been partial to Greener shotguns. Some dislike the Greener cross-bolt, considering it an unnecessary appendage. Others don’t like the side safety. Yet others claim Greeners are nothing but Birmingham “working guns,” not as finely made as London guns. I find it to be quite the opposite. In my experience, Greeners are as well made as any London gun. Granted, their basic models, like the Empire Grade, are not as finely finished as the London “best guns,” but they don’t cost the price of a small house!
Like the Royal Grade, the top-grade Greener boxlocks are as finely made as any London Best sidelock. And Greener made very fine sidelocks that are as good as the London counterparts and cost as much. However, the boxlock gave Greener worldwide fame; the proprietary boxlock action called “Facile Princeps” with its famous Greener top lock and side safety.
The Greener in its perfectly fitted “restored” Brady case. The author is unsure whether the case initially came with the gun or was a later addition.
A Greener will last as long as any London gun, maybe even outlast it. Not surprisingly, when Winchester held a torture test for its Model 21, shooting thousands of rounds of unreasonably heavy overloads, all other guns, including London Best Guns, broke down early on. Only the Greener hung on for a while longer, although it couldn’t keep up with the tank-like, overbuilt Model 21.
But my fondness for the Greener is not based on its strength. It is simply that it was a Greener that I shot first as a kid. So for me, a Greener will always hold a special place.
When too much still isn’t enough, it may be time to consider a big-bore AR-15.
Just what is a big-bore AR-15?
Before we can determine that we must clearly define our task. To me, it first means it’s the AR-15 not the AR-10 or other amalgams, derivatives or evolutions. So, despite our esteemed editor’s suggestion, a rifle in .308 is not a big-bore AR-15.
The second variable one might think of would be that any cartridge hurling a bullet larger in diameter than 0.224 inch is a “big-bore” AR-15. I’m not buying that, either. Oh, I’ve bought such rifles, but I don’t consider a 6mm ARC, 6.5 Grendel or a .300 Blackout to be “big-bore” in an AR-15 … or any other rifle for that matter.
The various bottlenecked cartridges aren’t big-bores. The 6.5 Grendel, the 5.56 and the 6.8 Rem SPC are fine cartridges, but not big-bores.
No, for me, a big-bore AR-15 has to be pushing a bullet more than 0.308 inch in diameter. So, what are the choices these days?
.350 Legend
I’ve got one, and I am fond of it. For those who hunt where a bottlenecked cartridge is prohibited, it’s the next best thing to sliced bread or an already-dressed whitetail. It’s a Winchester cartridge, and it fires 0.357-inch bullets of 160 to 180 grains in weight. “Oh, a .350 Remington,” you’re thinking. Well, yes, but no one has ever complained about the effectiveness of the .350 Rem. on deer. In testing, I shot some Hornady American Whitetail 170-grain interlocks into clear ballistic gel and got 26 inches of penetration and a fully expanded bullet. Sounds like venison time to me.
A good group with the .350 Legend. It would have been better if not for the one trigger-snatch shot fired.
The .350 case has the same rim diameter as that of the .223/5.56, so you can get an AR rebuilt to it by a simple-enough barrel swap, pulling out the worn .223/5.56 barrel and installing one in .350 Legend. Yours might be magazine-picky, and it might not—there’s an easy way to find out. The .350 is the smallest of the big-bore ARs, but it’s plenty enough for hunting, and as a bonus you could even use it in self-defense if you had to.
This is a test shot into clear ballistic gel, and 26 inches later, an expanded bullet.
.400 Legend
OK, you’re Winchester, and now that you’ve updated the .350 Rem to the 21st century, what’s next? Well, how about the .400 Legend? Winchester designed an entirely new case for this one, and on the front end, it uses bullets of 0.400 inch in diameter. As a straight-walled case, that means it doesn’t need a rebated rim, and the rim is 0.422 inch in diameter, the same as the 6.8 Remington SPC.
What this means, with a 215-grain bullet going a nominal 2,250 fps, is that the .400 Legend has less recoil than the .450 Bushmaster (but more than the .350 Legend, obviously) while delivering almost the same energy at 100 yards that the .450 does, and with less drop. As a big bonus for those considering a step up from using a shotgun with slugs, the .400 has half the recoil but twice the energy at 100 yards that a 1-ounce slug generates. I’ve fired enough slugs in my life that that alone makes the .400 very attractive.
So far, it’s loaded only with a 215-grain Power-Point bullet, but any jacketed bullet of 0.400-inch diameter will work for reloading. You’ll have to show some restraint, as your typical bullet made for the .40 S&W or 10mm pistol cartridge will not be as stoutly made as the 215 Power-Point, and shouldn’t be used for hunting—period, end of story. But if you want to load up some low-recoil practice/training ammunition using those bullets, the future looks rosy. Just be sure and use jacketed; the all-lead and the coated ones will be murder on your gas system.
.450 Bushmaster
The Bushmaster uses pistol-diameter .45 bullets, so jacketed .451-inch bullets are what you need to stock up on if you plan to reload your empties. The case calls for bullets heavier than those you’ll find for the .45 ACP, but the 450 has been out long enough (it was new in 2007) that you’ll have plenty of choices. The case was derived from the .284 Winchester and uses a rebated rim to fit into an AR bolt face, with a rim of 0.477 inch in diameter. Specifically, the diameter used for the 7.62×39 or 6.5 Grendel cases.
Once you get to the big-bores, the magazines of the AR-15 become single-stack feeding systems. Still, holding 10 rounds of .450 Bushmaster is not a bad thing—five if you’re hunting, of course.
The .450 Bushmaster is plenty robust, hurling 250-grain Hornady FTX bullets (with a soft polymer tip) at 2,100 fps out of a carbine-sized AR-15. You’ll feel the recoil.
The .450 Bushmaster has the energy required by the DNR in states that permit straight-walled cartridges for hunting, but you’ll have to eat your Wheaties, as the recoil from a typical AR-15 (let’s say, under 8 pounds) is going to be stout. This made it not so attractive to new hunters, and those of small stature, which is how Winchester came to develop the .350 and then the .400 Legend.
.458 SOCOM
The SOCOM, as its name might give you a hint, was developed for use by the bearded gents who track down bad guys and deal with them in faraway places. They wanted something with more horsepower than the 5.56, and boy did they get what they wanted. The SOCOM uses rifle-diameter bullets, so you will be looking at relatively “lightweight” bullets starting at 300 grains and going on up.
The case is a lengthened .50 AE, necked down to hold 0.458-inch bullets, and it also has a rebated rim, as there is only so much space on an AR-15 bolt for a case rim. The .458 SOCOM rim is 0.473 inch in diameter, which is the absolute limit of what an AR-15 bolt can take.
The .458 SOCOM is a real heavyweight, figuratively and literally. With bullets from 140 to 600 grains, it covers all the bases … and obliterates some of them.
In the 300-grain hunting load offerings, you’ll see velocities from 1,850 to just shy of 1,900 fps. If you are looking for lighter-weight bullets, the Inceptor 140-grain can be pushed up to 2,450 fps. If you prefer heavier bullets, then you can find offerings in the 400 to 500 and even up to 600 grains, and the latter ones can be had in subsonic loadings. A quiet sledgehammer, anyone?
The .458 SOCOM in those loads is essentially a 12-gauge slug equivalent, but with better bullets and out of an AR-15. One detail you’ll have to look out for is ejection. The .458 SOCOM tests the limits of the ejection port opening, and you may find ejection a bit laggard if you have built yours on a vanilla-plain upper. When I built mine, I used a flat-sided billet upper, and simply milled the ejection port larger so as to accommodate the cases. I didn’t bother with an ejection port cover door; I’m not going to be using a .458 SOCOM like I’d use a combat AR-15.
.458 Ham’r
I am fond of the .458 Ham’r, designed by Bill Wilson, but it falls outside of our definition. The Ham’r runs at higher pressures than those of the SOCOM, and as a result, it has to have an AR-10 sized bolt. That makes it a Chimera, an AR-15 lower with an AR-10-dimensioned upper, in order to take the pressures. I love it; it fires a 300-grain bullet at 2,100 fps, but it isn’t an AR-15 as we defined things here.
The .458 Ham’r is a really stout cartridge, but it doesn’t fit into the basic AR-15 platform. Bill Wilson makes a hybrid, and you need it to use this cartridge.
.50 Beowulf
Designed by Bill Alexander, the Beowulf is one of the first big-bore AR-15 cartridges. Coming out in 2001, it’s a rebated-rim straight-walled case holding bullets of 0.500 inch in diameter. The case is a stretched .50AE, with the overall length of the loaded cartridge just enough to fit into an AR magazine and still feed properly. It, like the .45s, feeds single-stack out of the magazine.
The .50 Beowulf and a lineup of loadings for it, compared to a .223 in the middle.
The 300-grain bullet loads run just under 1,900 fps and heavier 325- to 335-grain loads run from just under 1,800 fps to almost 1,900 fps. The Beowulf is a proprietary cartridge, so it is not SAAMI-approved, and thus not loaded by other ammunition makes. Ammunition comes solely from Alexander Arms, but they have plenty, and loaded with bullets from 200 to 400 grains in weight.
The .50 Beowulf I tested came with their “Tank” brake, and I was glad of it. Firing 12-gauge slug recoil-equivalent ammunition from a rifle that full-up tipped the scales at 8 pounds would be … interesting, were it not for the brake.
When I tested the .50 Beowulf, it came with their Tank brake, and I was glad for it.
The Little Things Matter, Too
All of the big-bores are accurate. When I was testing the Beowulf, I found that it hit so hard on the other end and hit so precisely to where I was aiming, that what I was plinking at simply disappeared when the bullet got there. They’re probably all more accurate than 99 percent of the shooters using them, so there’s no concern in that point. And if you reload, then the world will be your oyster.
With the exception of the .458 SOCOM, they are all straight-walled cases, and as a result, they will be relatively easy to resize. No need to worry about bumping back the shoulder just enough, and if you do not invest in carbide sizing dies (I heartily recommend that you spring for the extra few dollars it takes) then a little lube, cleaned off after resizing, will go a long way.
While the .400 Legend is really new, and thus bullets for it might be a bit tough to source, the others are in common diameters, and bullets for them have been being made for years, if not decades. And there’s also the economy.
The .350 Legend is plenty accurate, as you can see.
The .350 legend, for example, uses much the same weights in powder as does the .223/5.56 (although not the same powders, just to be clear) which is half that of what a .308 load requires. Yes, the .308 generates more velocity and thus more energy, but how much do you need for a whitetail? For a 180-grain bullet, 25 grains of powder gets you 2,200 fps in a .350, while it takes 39 to generate 2,375 fps in the .308. Do you think the whitetail would notice the difference? Perhaps not, but your shoulder and wallet will.
The best part? You can build or buy a new AR to handle these cartridges, or you can just invest in an upper and some magazines. The uppers of the big-bores will have been tuned to operate on regular AR-15 lowers, so if you buy an upper in .350 Legend, you can have range time with the .223/5.56 upper you usually park there, and then once you’re zeroed, go off and hunt with the Legend. The buckets of practice ammo you’ve burned in .223 will carry over to using the .350 Legend (or the others) and you will be a better shooter for that.
For hunters in the Midwest who have to deal with DNR straight-wall-case regulations, there are a lot more choices now than there had been just a few years ago. And for those looking for a new challenge, or a different range experience, big-bores can be a lot of fun.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the May 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
A look at the new Bear Creek Arsenal Grizzly pistol, the company’s first polymer handgun.
Bear Creek Arsenal is mostly known for its AR-15s and AR components, but the company broke into the handgun market a couple of years back with its Genes1s and Genes1s II pistols. Both of those are full-size 9mm Glock-style handguns, but their frames were entirely made of metal. Now Bear Creek Arsenal has announced the Grizzly pistol, a full-size 9mm with a traditional polymer frame. The company is advertising it as a handgun with out-of-the-box upgrades at an unbeatable price.
The Bear Creek Arsenal Grizzly is described as a full-size duty pistol, meaning it will feature the same 4.49-inch barrel length as the Glock 17. For the barrel, customers will have a choice between 416R Stainless Steel or 4150 Chrome Moly with a black nitride finish. The pistols will also feature a 20-degree grip angle, a textured thumb rest and plenty of grip stippling with a texture inspired by bear fur.
Other out-of-the-box upgrades include an RMR-cut slide for optics, photo-luminescent night sights and a window cut in the slide. Naturally, it features a Picatinny rail for a light or laser as well. As for upgrading the Grizzly pistol further, they will be compatible with Gen 3 Glock components and accessories, including many made by Bear Creek itself.
Bear Creek Arsenal Grizzly pistols will become available on April 10th, and each handgun will ship with two 17-round magazines. MSRP is not yet available.
The author hits the range with a Ruger New Model Super Blackhawk Bisley, a .44 Magnum revolver with some serious heft.
Back in the early ’80s, a friend showed up at the farm with a .44 Magnum revolver. I think he’d traded a set of chrome wheels off his Chevy Nova for it. Like most used .44 Magnums, this one came with a half-box of ammo, and we did our best to try and shoot it all up. I think we gave up after we’d both fired about two cylinders full. If my memory serves, he soon traded it for some other now forgotten gun. That was my first introduction to the .44 Magnum, and though I’ve messed with several since, I’ve never had an inkling to own one. Until now.
I was recently browsing the Lipsey’s website to see what was new. Lipsey’s is a Louisiana-based firearms dealer known for offering unique limited edition guns, especially from Ruger. For example, they’re currently offering a Ruger 77/22 chambered for the .22 Hornet, but it’s configured like an Africa Express rifle. The gun that really caught my attention, however, was a Ruger Super Blackhawk in all stainless-steel with a Bisley grip and a 4.625-inch barrel. It was a .44 Magnum, but inexplicably it seemed to scratch an inch I didn’t know I had.
Even though the barrel is short and the recoil intense, hits on a 10-inch 50-yard steel plate were possible while shooting off-hand. The revolver’s good trigger helped immensely.
It Keeps On Giving
This is a beautiful revolver. The brushed stainless finish contrasts nicely with the dark laminated wood stocks. And while I’ve never really liked the Bisley grip, it seems to fit this revolver—both esthetically and ergonomically—perfectly. More importantly, with the Bisley grip it seems to balance in hand better than a Super Blackhawk with the standard grip.
The Bisley hammer on this compact big-bore revolver is easier to manipulate than the standard hammer.
Also, the Bisley grip is known for being much more comfortable on a revolver that has stiff recoil—but more on that in a moment. The revolver’s 4.625-inch barrel keeps it compact and not too heavy. It’s only slightly heavier than a 5-inch 1911. The shorter barrel also makes it easier to wear in a hip holster. The adjustable rear sight and black, ramped front are standard for a Ruger Blackhawk, and the trigger was light to the touch and exceptionally crisp.
I needed serious ammo for a serious handgun, so I turned to Buffalo Bore because they make the most serious .44 Special and .44 Magnum ammunition you can buy. And if you’re gonna shoot a .44 Magnum, you might as well get serious about it. I chose four loads. The first was their .44 Special Anti-Personnel load intended for self-defense. It uses a 200-grain hardcast wadcutter bullet at an advertised 1,000 fps.
The rear sight on the Lipsey’s Super Blackhawk in .44 Magnum is the standard sight Ruger uses on their single-action revolvers.
The second was their .44 Special Outdoorsman load, which I think might be the best all-round load for this revolver. It pushes a 255-grain hardcast SWC Keith bullet to an advertised 1,000 fps. The other loads were heavy-hitting .44 Magnum loads. One pushes a 300-grain jacketed flat nose to 1,300 fps, and the other a 305-grain hard cast SWC Keith bullet at 1,325 fps.
The front sight on the Lipsey’s Super Blackhawk in .44 Magnum is the standard sight Ruger uses on their single-action revolvers.
From the bench, both the .44 Special loads were pleasurable to shoot, and out of the 4.625-inch barrel, they both delivered better than advertised velocity. The two .44 Magnum loads were a handful and maybe more, and they too exceeded advertised velocities. I had no trouble shooting sub-inch three-shot groups with the .44 Special loads from the bench at 15 yards, but due to recoil, I really had to concentrate and grit my teeth with the .44 Magnum loads. When it was all said and done, after firing three, three-shot groups with each load, the overall average group size was only 0.97 inch.
Though this Heavy .44 Magnum load for Buffalo Bore is a handful, it shot very well out of the Lipsey’s Super Blackhawk, delivering more than 1,200 foot-pounds of muzzle energy.
Almost All Roses
If there’s a downside to this hand cannon, it’s that the ejector rod is a bit short to fully push fired cases from the cylinder. You can pop the rod and usually force them out, but with some of the hotter loads this will not work. While this might seem like a major detractor, in reality it’s not. This isn’t a revolver designed for house clearing or another application like mass zombie eradication, where you’ll need to shoot a lot a reload in a hurry. If a couple shots from this thing does not solve the problem, your problem is unimaginably bad or you just can’t shoot.
I do not need a .44 Magnum revolver. There’s nothing big and bad enough in West Virginia that requires that much nastiness to stop it. But there’s something about this hand cannon that I can’t shake. Johnny Walker, my best friend who lives in Kodiak, Alaska, has been begging me to come up and visit. If I go, I can think of no better revolver to have on my side; Walker has already had to shoot one Kodiak bear who thought he looked like an appetizer. The thing is, my friend frequently comes back home to West Virginia to visit, and other than him, there’s nothing on that bear-infested rock of an island I care about.
Lipsey’s Ruger Super Blackhawk in all stainless-steel with a Bisley grip and a 4.625-inch barrel.
Nope, I just don’t need a lightweight, compact, easy to carry .44 Magnum revolver. But then again, my house and gun safe are full of guns I don’t really need. The thing is, sometimes—when it comes to guns—“need” has absolutely nothing to do with it. I like this gun, and I get a feeling it likes me. And who knows, with all the talk about aliens, this might be just exactly the gun we’ll all need one day. We just don’t have enough information right now to know for sure, and I like being prepared.
Epilogue: Recoil
So, let’s talk a bit about the .44 Magnum. In general, it kicks—everybody knows that.
Federal lists a 280-grain Swift A-Frame load at 1,170 fps. If you plug that into a recoil calculator with a 46-ounce handgun like this one, it’ll tell you you’re going to experience about 16 foot-pounds of recoil energy. That’ll get your attention. To put it in perspective, Federal’s 230-grain HST load for the .45 Auto will recoil with about 8.5 foot-pounds of kinetic energy out of a 5-inch 1911, and a very hot 10mm load will generate about 13 foot-pounds.
While shoving a Buffalo Bore heavy loaded .44 Magnum cartridge in the cylinder of the Lipsey’s Super Blackhawk, you feel there’s nothing you can’t take on, and you’d be right.
Out of the Ruger, the Buffalo Bore 305-grain Heavy load for the .44 Magnum recoils with 25 wrist-twisting foot-pounds! It doesn’t feel anything like a hot 10mm load. In fact, it doesn’t feel like you’re shooting a handgun. It feels more like you’re trying to hold on to a mule’s leg to try to keep the mule’s leg from kicking you in the face. I might’ve peed myself a little the first time I fired one of those 305-grain loads. It’s not that it was painful—it was a bit painful—it was just, well, a bit scary.
NOTES: Reported average muzzle velocity (VEL), standard velocity deviation (SD) and average muzzle energy (ENG) were established by firing 10 rounds over a Caldwell G2 chronograph with the screens positioned 10 feet from the muzzle. The precision (PRC) of each load represents the average of three, three-shot groups fired from a sandbag rest at 15 yards. Recoil (REC) was calculated using an online recoil calculation source. Temperature: 58 degrees, Humidity: 48 percent, Pressure: 29.90 in-Hg, Elevation: 2,200 feet.
I shared my impression with Tim Sundles who owns Buffalo Bore. He said—in a nonchalant, matter of fact way—and I quote, “Yeah, it’s hard to write a letter after shooting the hard kickers.” Ya think?! Hell, it’s hard to pick your nose or scratch your ass with any efficiency after a cylinder full of these dinosaur killers.
I know this is a review about a revolver and not intended to be a dissertation on the .44 Magnum, but give me some leeway, precision testing those heavy .44 Magnum loads from the bench while trying to shoot the best groups I could was daunting. This would have been quite different with Ruger’s 7.5-inch Super Redhawk Bisley Hunter at 52 ounces, which would recoil about 14 percent less and have a lot less muzzle flip. You’re more than welcome to call me a wuss. I could care less. I think with this revolver reminded me of the lesson I learned on the farm about 40 years ago, and that’s that I’m pretty much a .44 Special kind of guy.
The 4.625-inch barreled Super Blackhawk from Lipsey’s fit perfectly and carried comfortably in Galco’s SAO holster.
Two Final Comments And I’ll Let It Go
First, after all the shooting, I sat down at the computer to draft this report. I couldn’t. My fingers didn’t want to respond efficiently to what my brain was trying to tell them to do. And finally, if you own a .44 Magnum, you owe it to yourself to get at least one box of Buffalo Bore’s 305-grain Heavy load. It’s expensive; Buffalo Bore is proud of this stuff, and they should be because it’s near the pinnacle of practical handgun power. A box of 20 retails for $53.68. But it’s worth the price to at least, just once, feel all that power in one hand.
I let my 24-year-old son, who’s a Gunsite graduate, shoot it. I cannot write what he said. Just don’t shoot this stuff in a revolver with a scandium or aluminum frame, or any revolver of questionable strength. If you do, you might experience something worse than a little bit of metacarpal numbness.
Sturm, Ruger & Co. New Model Super Blackhawk Bisley SPECS:
Catalog No.: 0876
Action: Single
Trigger Pull: 2.75 Pounds
Chambering: .44 Special/.44 Magnum
Frame: Stainless-steel
Barrel: Stainless-steel, 4.625 Inches, 1:20 RH twist with 6 grooves
Looking for a new iron or piece of kit to enhance the one you already own? Check out these 7 new bits of guns and gear to grow your firearms wish list.
Tailored for all-purpose use, the Staccato C strikes a balance between carry convenience and duty/home defense effectiveness. The slim and short design of the pistol offers a confident grip across various hand sizes. Whereas its wide frame, flush with the slide, enhances durability and reduces felt recoil, delivering a more controllable shooting experience. Being a Staccato, the C is a 2011, giving shooters ample firepower in a 1911-style gun—in this case, 16 rounds of 9mm. As expected, the company has outfitted the gun with a lights-out trigger, breaking at right around 4 pounds. MSRP: $2,600
Walther Arms PDP Compact Steel Frame
Kicking 2024 off in style, Walther Arms upped the level of its popular PDP line of pistols with the release of a Compact Steel Frame model. As its name suggests, the 9mm boasts an all-steel frame, prioritizing both durability and performance in the 4-inch barreled gun. The nice part is that the added weight considerably enhances recoil absorption, making the PDP much quicker and more accurate shot-to-shot. As a bonus, Walther maintains its hallmark ergonomic design in the grip frame, ensuring a comfortable yet robust feel. MSRP: $1,700
Taurus TH10 10mm
In the market for a robust full-sized DA/SA handgun chambered in potent 10mm Auto? Taurus has you covered with the TH10. Boasting a 4.25-inch stainless-steel barrel and a 15-round magazine capacity, the pistol doesn’t want for firepower. And, the TH10’s 28.5 ounces weight strikes a nice balance—light enough to carry, but hefty enough to soak up the 10mm stout recoil. Notable attributes include drift-adjustable front and rear sights, an accessory rail and an ambidextrous safety/de-cocker—making it righty and lefty friendly. MSRP: $530
CCI Uppercut Defense .22 LR
The gun industry has gotten more serious about the .22 LR as a self-defense caliber. Case in point: CCI Uppercut Defense. This purpose-driven round is tailored for small handguns and topped with a 32-grain hollow-point designed for appropriate penetration and consistent expansion in its terminal destination. The bullet, for the most part, resembles the iconic Stinger line and boasts a thicker copper jacket, similar to those found on .22 WMR. What you end up with is a round that ups the defensive potential of .22 handguns. MSRP: $13, box of 50
Daniel Defense Daniel H9
Daniel Defense has resurrected the innovative Hudson H9, unveiling the Daniel H9 at SHOT Show 2024. Acquiring Hudson’s patents after the company’s unfortunate closure, Daniel Defense meticulously redesigned the 9mm handgun. While externally similar, the Daniel H9 only shares one component with its predecessor due to Daniel Defense’s commitment to elevated manufacturing standards. Retaining the 1911’s beloved features but incorporating modern elements like a striker-fire mechanism and an optics-ready slide, the Daniel H9 boasts the lowest bore axis in its class. MSRP: $1,300
Ruger PC Carbine in .45 ACP
The PC Carbine has proven it’s a viable and potent option in PCCs. Now, Ruger is kicking the little fireball’s game up a notch with the introduction of the gun in .45 ACP. With a 16-inch threaded barrel, the carbine utilizes a blowback operating system and features an AR-style folding buttstock for enhanced portability. Adding utility to the platform, the company outfits the gun with an M-Lok handguard allowing for accessory attachments. And perhaps best of all, the design is Glock magazine compatible. In turn, magazine options are highly available and very economical. Overall, it’s not a bad package for those who prefer to shoot fat and slow. MSRP: $1,010
Diamondback SDR (Self-Defense Revolver)
Diamondback Firearms unveiled its Self-Defense Revolver (SDR) at the 2024 SHOT Show, marking its entry into centerfire wheel guns. Chambered in .357 Magnum, the SDR has the chops for both home and personal defense, and at a mere 21 ounces, it makes for a more than acceptable CCW option. A good looker, the 2-inch barreled revolver is machined from premium stainless steel and has six rounds on board. Furthermore, its low-profile fiber-optic sights, concealed hardware and rounded edges prevent snags and optimizes the gun for carry. And, the DA/SA pistol has a top-notch trigger, making for a smooth, non-stacking break in double action and a very sensitive trip in single. MSRP: $777
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
The author takes a look at the ultra-powerful .408 CheyTac and compares it against other anti-materiel cartridges like .50 BMG.
The .408 CheyTac is an odd cartridge, in that it has almost no practical civilian use and doesn't fit any military need well enough to result in widespread adoption.
Like many niche calibers, there's a certain mystique that the .408 has attained thanks to firearms culture and, of course, the movie Shooter. Almost everyone who longs to own a CheyTac M200 Intervention rifle in this caliber does so because it was prominently featured in that film.
Pop-culture references aside, let's take a peek behind the curtain and discuss what the cartridge was made to do, what it does and what anyone would stand to gain from using it.
What's An Anti-Materiel Rifle?
Anti-materiel rifles are specialized firearms designed to destroy or otherwise disable equipment, hardware, vehicles and similar targets that are resistant to conventional small arms fire.
The concept was born out of the anti-tank rifles of WWI. These were used even more widely in the Second World War, but as tank armor grew more effective the job of the rifles gradually shifted to be more anti-materiel in nature. By the end of the war, tanks had generally become robust enough to render the anti-tank rifle obsolete, despite this they stayed relevant thanks to their continued effectiveness against other, lighter targets. Some WWII anti-tank rifles like the Soviet PTRS-41 are still actively used in an anti-materiel role around the world today.
Rifles of this description are traditionally chambered for very large centerfire cartridges, typically .50-caliber or bigger. Some popular anti-materiel rifle cartridges over the years include .50 BMG, 14.5×114mm Russian, 12.7x108mm Russian and 20mm.
The .408 CheyTac cartridge, however, was built differently. It was devised to deliver .50 BMG-like terminal performance or better with a smaller-diameter projectile, giving it a lower total weight and enabling soldiers in the field to either lighten their pack or carry more ammo without making other concessions to their loadout. Equal performance at a lower weight certainly sounds promising.
What Is .408 CheyTac?
The .408 CheyTac, or more accurately .408 Cheyenne Tactical, started as a wildcat cartridge combining a dangerous game case with a high-BC bullet to achieve maximum effective range and multi-role capability.
The inventors are Dr. John Taylor and William Wordman. The latter was a machinist who was seeking to improve on Taylor's earlier wildcat, the .400 Taylor Magnum. The .400 Taylor is more or less a .505 Gibbs (a dangerous game cartridge) necked down to 0.375 inches.
To create the .408 CheyTac, the case is trimmed to 3.04 inches in length from 3.15 inches and necked down to .408 inches. To solve the issue of case pressures, some different metallurgy had to be used to create stronger brass capable of handling the nearly 64,000 psi of chamber pressure that the .408 produces.
The result is a cartridge that will propel a 419-grain solid projectile at 3,000 feet per second with 8,373 foot-pounds of energy.
To stabilize the bullet, solid projectiles must be used rather than jacketed. This gives the bullet more stable flight, which is partly why (along with the bullet’s aerodynamic profile) it has such a ridiculously high ballistic coefficient. Various ammunition manufacturers have claimed that their .408 CheyTac projectiles have BCs of 0.949 and higher. While these figures have been disputed, it seems apparent that the bullets perform very efficiently in flight regardless of what the exact numbers are.
But what does this all actually mean?
The .408 CheyTac puts a lot of powder behind a large, heavy and very aerodynamic bullet. As a result, it stays supersonic a lot longer (potentially to over 2,300 yards) and can penetrate things better at greater distances. It does so more efficiently than .50 BMG and with a longer effective range than .338 Lapua Magnum.
Ergo, it has the capabilities of a long-range sniper rifle round and an anti-materiel rifle round all rolled into one.
.408 CheyTac Ballistics
The .408 CheyTac is incredibly impressive.
The original load is a 419-grain solid projectile, such as CheyTac Ammo's load with the company’s patented Balanced Flight Projectile. This has an advertised G1 ballistic coefficient of 0.949, which is astounding. Here's a 3,000-yard trajectory table for that load using Shooter's Calculator. All tables were calculated presuming a 1.5-inch sight height, a 10 mph 90-degree crosswind, zero corrections for atmosphere and a 100-yard zero.
As you can see, it stays supersonic past 2,500 yards. At 3,000 yards, it still has more velocity (and almost double the energy) of a .357 Magnum at the muzzle.
Another “common” commercial load is a 400-grain solid projectile by SBR Ammo, with an advertised 0.983 G1 ballistic coefficient.
The table shows that it doesn't go transonic until more than 2,700 yards. At 3,000 yards, it still has more energy than a .44 Magnum at the muzzle!
.408 CheyTac Vs .50 BMG
This is the same trajectory table for Hornady's A-Max Match .50 BMG load, with a 750-grain bullet and a G1 BC of 1.05.
Comparing the results with those of .408 CheyTac shows that .408 is every bit .50 BMG's equal in terms of velocity and range, only trailing behind in terms of energy.
This is incredibly impressive, given that .408 CheyTac is half the size of .50 BMG.
The .50 BMG is an enormous cartridge. The case length is 3.91 inches, with a COL of 5.45 inches, a capacity of 292.8 grains of water and a base diameter of 0.8 inches. One loaded cartridge weighs just over 4 ounces.
By contrast, .408 CheyTac has a case length of 3.028 inches, a COL of 4.465 inches and a capacity of 159 grains of water. It weighs nearly half that of .50 BMG.
But what you have to remember about ballistic tables is that they only give you a very dry, on-paper sense of what a bullet does. How the bullet actually performs in the real world is something entirely different. What is .50 BMG known to do that the .408 CheyTac doesn't?
Well, at this point…almost everything. The .50 BMG has proven itself as an anti-materiel, anti-aircraft and anti-…basically everything short of tanks cartridge. The armor-piercing ammunition works. The incendiary and standard tracers work too.
We know they work because they’ve been heavily used to great effect in two-way firing ranges all over the world since the .50 BMG was invented. If .408 CheyTac has been used in a theater of war, knowledge of it is either hidden or so small in scale that it's never been disclosed.
And that is ultimately why it hasn't caught on to the extent that it would seem it should. It doesn't do anything so much better than .50 BMG that it justifies the expense of replacing it with new rifles and ammunition.
You can get a basic .50 BMG rifle for around $1,500. A Barrett M99, the company’s single-shot bolt-action, will run you about $5,000, and that's for an actual Barrett rifle. Feeding a .50 BMG is also insanely expensive, but cheap ammo is at least somewhat attainable.
In contrast, getting into the .408 CheyTac is a much taller order. About the “cheapest” rifle you're likely to find is the DesertTech HTI which has an MSRP of $7,600 for the basic model. Most others will run you well north of $10,000.
Then you have the cost of feeding it. You can get .50 BMG ammo for less than $40 for 10 rounds, which is stupidly expensive for 10 rounds but not awful when accounting for the size and specialty of the ammo. You can find it in some stores, and it's certainly available online.
While .408 CheyTac ammo theoretically exists…it’s like hen's teeth to find. AmmoSeek has over 5 pages of .50 BMG ammo, but only a single result for .408 CheyTac at the time of writing. That listing was from Optics Planet…for about $15 per round. That said, if you can afford a .408 rifle, you can probably afford the ammo too. Your bigger problem will likely be just finding any for sale. It’s also worth mentioning that .408 projectiles and reloading tools are available, so loading your own is theoretically possible too.
Does The Military Use .408 CheyTac? What Could I Use One For?
There are some reports of the M200 Intervention and the .408 CheyTac cartridge being purchased by various militaries, but nothing on a serious scale.
Look up the list of the world's longest sniper shots, and you'll notice it is not on it. A .408 CheyTac was used to set a world record long-distance rifle shot…in 2018. It's since been not only broken, but shattered with a .416 Barrett.
In other words, while you technically can do things with it, mass adoption has not occurred.
Why not?
Mostly because whatever increase in capability the cartridge gives you isn't so much of an improvement that it justifies the monetary and logistical cost of a caliber change.
You Really Just Want A CheyTac M200 Intervention, Don’t You?
If you look at what the on-paper benefits are compared to the cost and availability of ammunition, the only reason to even consider this cartridge is because you want an M200 Intervention rifle from the movie Shooter.
Marky Mark firing his M200 Intervention in Shooter (2007). Image: IMFDB.
It's an amazing rifle, and Shooter is a darn good flick. Like so many other boutique guns, the movies make us want stuff that is insanely expensive and desperately impractical. Smith & Wesson could barely give Model 29 revolvers away before Dirty Harry, and Wind River sold a lot of guide guns.
There's nothing wrong with that, but it is what it is.
The reality is that there are plenty of other long-range cartridges that can do everything you'd want to use .408 CheyTac for, but for a lot less money. It's an amazing cartridge with a lot of potential. Maybe someday it will be worth getting into…but it is not this day.
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 excellent concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
