Ringing steel is great, but the humble paper target still has a lot to offer when it comes to improving your shooting skills.
How do you practice shooting targets at long range? Common sense would say, by shooting targets at long range. But not everyone has access to long-distance ranges. So, how can we train ourselves to succeed when the range is less than 200 yards?
Maximize Paper
I love to shoot on paper. Paper targets don't lie to you—there’s no place to hide with it. However, we’re seeing increased pushback toward shooting paper. For many long-range shooters, steel is a much easier target to manage. But paper tells a story, and it’s one worth listening to.
Putting up a paper target at 100 yards is very easy. The average range in the United States is 200 yards. There’s a lot of very productive work you can accomplish inside these distances. I’d highly recommend you stop shooting prone or bench-style groups at 100 yards unless you zero the scope.
You may be surprised by a new shooter’s difference in group size when comparing 100-yard versus 200-yard results. While the mindset everyone uses is 1 inch at 100 becomes 2 inches at 200, this rarely plays out in real life when it relates to group size. Instead, we see a student with a .65-inch group at 100 shoots 2 inches at 200 yards. Two hundred is a much more difficult distance for groups. This very reason is why we recommend groups at 200 instead of 100.
What we see in terms of practice success at 100 yards is positional shooting.
Build and Break Drills
Building and breaking drills means you step back from your position and rebuild that position for every new shot or series. It’s creating positive repetitions, so you’ll revert to muscle memory when faced with a similar scenario under less-than-ideal conditions.
Here’s the original Kraft Data target. Some shooters found the center difficult to see, so the contrast was increased in the other versions.
Local competitor Chris Way has introduced the Kraft Data Challenge that many of us are using today. This target gives the shooter an instant visual to diagnose shooting problems. Using his uniquely styled target, the shooter takes three shots from sitting, kneeling, standing and prone to identify accuracy and precision. Accuracy tells us how close to the center of our aiming point we’re impacting, while precision identifies the group size.
Here’s the Sniper’s Hide updated version of the Kraft Target. The rings are used to score the drill.
Dot Drills
For some of us, shooting groups is a lesson in frustration. Not every shooting discipline uses groups as a metric for success. The tactical shooter and hunter are “one hit, one kill” types. Hunting rifles aren’t designed to shoot groups; the barrels are too thin, heat too fast and can walk. That brings us to the Sniper’s Hide Dot Drill.
Here’s the original 21 Dot Drill target from Sniper’s Hide. Your only limitation is your imagination when it comes to shooting paper.
When I worked in Texas at Rifles Only, I designed the Dot Drill. The majority of our classes were military and law enforcement—the single-shot crowd. On top of that, these shooters are dynamic; their training requires them to get on target as quickly as possible. Speed wins in this case.
The Dot Drill was designed to put one round on each target. The original sheet was all 1-inch dots. It has since been modified and adapted by numerous groups of shooters. Each row of five targets was designed as a single drill. The first row would slow fire, giving 1 minute. The second row might be the support side—right-handed shooters use their left. The next row was the up-and-down drill.
The up-and-down drill starts with the shooter standing behind the rifle, magazine in and bolt back. On the Gun Command, the shooter drops down and fires one round in 15 seconds. The drill is then reset, and the next gun command gives 12 seconds for the next target. After each reset, you reduce the time: 10 seconds, 8 seconds … and finally, 6 seconds. Try it—it’s a great drill for working at 100 yards and will make you much faster on the rifle.
The Progressive Dot Drill is designed to increase the difficulty. The ¼-inch targets are extremely hard to hit even under the best conditions.
Mix And Match
Mix up your training; a combination of both steel and paper targets is a great way to improve. Paper is cinematic storytelling, while steel is the equivalent of a wolf whistle. The report back of an impact can be satisfying, but all you know about the shot is that it worked.
Paper explains the process. Are you strung vertically or more so horizontally? Do you have multiple groups, two touching here with the other three scattered? Each pattern is an explanation of what the shooter is doing behind the rifle. Please don’t ignore this valuable information when it’s available.
Training is essential—the best way to improve is through practice. How you practice has a bearing on the results and your long-term success.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Originally only available to law enforcement, Aimpoint’s Duty RDS red dot sight can now be purchased on the commercial market.
Founded in Sweden in 1974, Aimpoint got its start developing red dot sights for hunting and sporting purposes. Eventually, the technology caught on with warfighters too, and by the late 1990s Aimpoint was under contract to produce red dot sights for the U.S. Army. Jump to 2022, and red dot-equipped rifles seem more commonplace than iron-sighted ones, and Aimpoint is still at the forefront of the technology’s progression. This is evidenced not only by the company still serving as the gold standard of the electronic optic industry, but by their continued procurement of government contracts. The most recent of these was the Aimpoint Duty RDS. The red dot was developed to meet the requirements of law enforcement agencies and became exclusively available to them in January of 2022. Now, four months later, the Duty RDS is finally available on the commercial market as well.
The Duty RDS features a 2-MOA red dot reticle with 10 brightness settings; four are for use with night vision and six are for daytime conditions. The sight is powered by a single CR2032 battery and can stay illuminated for over three years on brightness setting seven. The battery can also be replaced without removing the optic thanks to its side-mounted battery compartment.
Developed for duty-use, as its name implies, the Duty RDS is incredibly tough and resistant to the elements. The optic features a pressure-forged aluminum housing that can withstand most temperatures found on Earth, and it can survive being submerged in up to 80 feet of water. Despite being so rugged, the red dot sight manages to remain very light as well, weighing only 3.8-ounces without its mount.
Each Duty RDS includes one single-piece mount/spacer, two flip-up lens covers, one battery and an Allen T10 wrench. The sight is now available to the U.S. commercial market and has an MSRP of $499.
Zeroing your rifle is one of the most fundamental skills a shooter can have, yet many still lack the knowledge to do so.
A rifle that doesn’t hit to the sights isn’t of much use. I saw a lot of those as a gunsmith, and I spent a lot of my time handling that chore for customers. No, really: You’d be surprised how many hunters back then (and for all I know, today) buy a rifle, scope, mount and ammo, and ask, “Can you sight it in for me?” Sometimes, they even have detailed instructions for that outcome: “I want it 2 inches high at 200 yards.” (No idea why that was a common request, but it was. Someday, I’ll run the math and see what it gets you.)
If you do a proper job at 25 yards, your 100-yard target will be close enough to the center that it’ll take just a few clicks to get it on zero. If you start at 100 yards, it might be several boxes of ammo before you see something like this.
So, once a week, leading up to Opening Day, I’d load up my pickup truck with guns to be sighted in and head off to the gun club. Zeroing a rifle (or shotgun or handgun) ends up being one of two processes, one of them easy and one of them hard.
The easy one? Checking something that was already sighted in and hadn’t been changed since then. A previously zeroed rifle that has been in the rack or gun safe since the end of last hunting season isn’t likely to have changed its zero. So, you just post a target (usually at 100 yards) and shoot as many rounds as it takes to determine to your satisfaction that it was still zeroed. For me, that was a grand total of three rounds.
The hard ones? Those where the scope has just been mounted. Or the owner says, “I don’t know where it’s hitting.” On those, posting a target at 100 yards was almost always a waste of time.
Before we get started, here’s a reminder: There’s no such thing as “offhand zero.” You don’t check the zero of a rifle standing, kneeling, sitting…and rarely even prone. Get a solid bench, use sandbags or a shooting support. Get the rifle as solid and unmoving as you can. Then, you can shoot.
There are two ways of dealing with this. Both are easy at some ranges and really tough at others, for different reasons.
You want to have a solid, comfortable and stable position when you go to zero. No doing it offhand or in a “handy” rest. Get solid.
The 25-Yard Approach
Post a target at 25 yards. Carefully shoot a group (three shots will do) and see where it’s hitting. Given a foot-square target, on a 2-, 3- or 4-foot square target holder, you’re going to get hits somewhere. Then, you crank the sights or scope around until you’re as close to your point of aim a 25-yard target can get you.
Quick tip: You probably want to be about an inch or so low at 25 yards, to be dead-on at 100.
Oh, and remember: The scope units of adjustment are predicated on a 100-yard distance. So, if your group is 1 inch from the point of aim at 25 yards, you have to crank in 4 inches of scope adjustment. If the scope instructions read “four clicks per inch,” that means 16 clicks. And don’t be bashful—don’t “sneak up on it.” If the group looks an inch off at 25 yards, give the scope the full 4 inches of correction for your 100-yard target testing.
Now, you can go out to 100 yards and do a final check.
Eye relief is important. If you’re too close, the scope will hit you in the face. If you’re too far away, you don’t get the full field of view through the scope.
When doesn’t this work? When the range setup or organization doesn’t permit a 25-yard rifle target check. If it’s 100 yards or nothing, then you have your work cut out for you.
The ‘Getting Dirty’ Method
The other method is what I called the “dirt splash” method.
First, I’d post a half-dozen targets at 100 yards and set up my spotting scope. I’d then set up my gear (and the pile of rifles) at the 100-yard firing line of my gun club, and as soon as shooting time rolled around in the morning, I’d get started. I’d pick a spot on the backstop (our club had a 60-foot backstop, with mature pine trees on top), and from a sandbagged shooting position, I’d fire a shot. I’d compare the hit to the aiming point and crank the scope over. If the next one obliterated the dirt clod, I’d then pick one of the targets and fire a shot.
Make sure the scope mount, or base, is solidly attached to the rifle. If not, your zero won’t be. This is a Scout Rifle setup, but the same rule applies: It must be solid.
From there, it was simple: Plot the hit, make a correction and fire another shot. I could, when things worked out, get a rifle on-center in three shots. If it took more, then I’d shoot more. When a target got too many hits on it to keep track (even plotting the hits on a chart on the shooting bench, it got messy), I’d switch to the next target. Each target was good for two, three or four rifles.
It’d take me a couple of hours to zero a truckload of rifles. I’d stack them back in their cases, in the truck, and get back to the shop to write them up and put them in the rack.
When doesn’t the dirt-splash method work? When the light or the condition of the dirt doesn’t let you see the splashes. Back before cheap digital video, this was sometimes a problem. Now, I’d just set up a camera, video the shot into the dirt and play it back. Sometimes, technology is wondrous. Sometimes.
The scope rings must be tight enough to hold the scope securely. If not, it’ll slip or vibrate, and both mean a non-zero zero.
Last-Resort Troubleshooting
What if a rifle just won’t zero? There are a few reasons that are simple … and one that you don’t want to be telling people about. First, check the action screws. If it’s a bolt-action rifle, are the screws holding it in the stock all tight? If it’s a two-piece stock, is the stock tight and the forearm snug? Loose screws cause problems. Yes, obvious, I know, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t check.
Next, check the scope mount and ring screws. Anything loose here causes problems.
I was at a gun writer event and took a few shots on a manufacturer’s .338 Lapua, at a steel plate in the next zip code. My third shot was high-right. “Hmm, I held center on that.” My spotter remarked, “It did the same thing, low-left, to me.” Yep, a loose scope base was the problem.
So, check those screws and make sure they’re tight. A busted scope? There’s nothing you can do about that but send it back to the manufacturer.
The action screws must be tight or your accuracy will go away. It might not change the zero, but a “zeroed” rifle that shoots 10-inch groups is rarely useful.
The last one is simple: wrong ammo. In an AR-15, putting “green tip” 62-grain ammo in a 1:12 twist rifle will get you keyholes at 25 yards and nothing on paper at 100. There are some rifles with too-slow twists, and if you aren’t careful, using a bullet that’s too heavy can cause problems.
But the classic instance I experienced was a customer who brought in his Marlin lever-action because “it won’t hit the target.” I checked it out, took it to the range, and printed three shots touching at 50 yards, on-center. He picked it up and, later that afternoon, came back saying, “Won’t hit the target.” I finally got around to asking about his ammo, and he produced an ancient box of .30-30 170-grain soft-points. That’s great deer ammo, but it’s not at all suited for a rifle chambered in .35 Remington. He had only ever known of lever-action rifles being chambered in .30-30 Winchester, so that was the ammo he bought for his new rifle. No wonder it wouldn’t hit the target. A .308-inch bullet going down a .358-inch bore isn’t going to receive much in the way of guidance or stabilization.
In a pinch (but I don’t recommend it), you can get a good zero from prone, with a support under your off-hand … but do it only if that’s the only choice.
You Get to Define Accuracy
Oh, and how much is “enough” accuracy?” That depends. I had another customer who, by the 1980s, had gotten a deer each hunting season since the Eisenhower administration. His kids were embarrassed at how grubby his rifle was, and finally prevailed on his bringing it in for a cleaning and checkup.
It was a worn-to-white-steel Winchester 94 rifle in .32 Special. I scrubbed it up, checked the bore and, just out of curiosity, took it to the range. That rifle shot 8- to 10-inch groups at 100 yards. When he picked it up, I mentioned that I had range-tested it. “You didn’t change my sights, did you?” Nope. But how did he get a deer each year with accuracy like that. “I neck-shoot them in the swamps” was his reply.
If this is your 25-yard target, then you are in business. From this, you can adjust to be on paper at 100 yards.
Well, 8 to 10 inches at 100 yards doesn’t seem like much, but if you’re ghosting in the swamp and shoot a deer at 50 feet, you have plenty of accuracy. The man was a hunter, not a rifleman.
So, when you’re fussing over your zero, trying to get the last half-inch of precision at 100 yards, keep in mind that the “A” zone of a whitetail is about the size of a basketball. If you can keep your shot within 3 or 4 inches of your point of aim, you’re going to get the job done. Well, the shooting part. Then, there’s the tracking, tagging, cleaning and hauling.
Once your rifle is zeroed, the rest, of course, is on you.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Sig Sauer has just been announced as the winner of the U.S. Army’s Next Generation Squad Weapon (NGSW) Program.
The Next Generation Squad Weapon Program, or NGSW, was announced by the U.S. military in 2017. The goal of the initiative was to find replacements for the currently issued service rifle, light machinegun and their shared 5.56x45mm cartridge. After 27 months of testing design submissions from at least five different companies, the U.S. Army has finally announced the winner. Sig Sauer’s MCX-SPEAR (XM5) rifle is slated to replace the M4, their SIG-LMG (XM250) will replace the M249 and both new weapons will fire Sig’s 6.8×51 FURY Hybrid Ammunition (6.8mm Common Cartridge). SIG SLX suppressors were also selected to be used with the weapon system.
The benefits offered by the new equipment are multi-faceted, but the 6.8mm cartridge is the heart of the upgrade. It was designed to be flat-shooting and powerful enough to defeat modern body armor without a dramatic increase in recoil, and the hybrid nature of the case allows for a much higher chamber pressure without significantly increasing weight.
It’s not surprising that the Army ended up selecting Sig’s rifle design over the other manufacturers' submissions, as the MCX-SPEAR’s manual of arms is the most similar to the AR family of weapons. For those interested in owning their own Next Generation Squad Weapon, Sig has already made commercial variants of the rifle and ammunition available for purchase. As for those who are issued their gear, it will likely be quite a long time until we actually start to see these new weapons in soldiers’ hands.
Ron Cohen, President and CEO of Sig Sauer, said this in response to the company being awarded the contract:
The U.S. Army is taking a bold step toward command of the 21st century battlefield and SIG SAUER is immensely proud to be the selected provider for this historic revolution in infantry weapons. The fielding of the SIG SAUER Next Generation Squad Weapons System will forever change the dynamic of military engagement for America’s warfighters with American innovation and manufacturing,
Once the gentleman’s way to carry concealed, pocket pistols have fallen out of style. Should they be left to rest, or do they still have merit as defensive weapons?
Updated 4/21/2022
Defining Characteristics Of Pocket Pistols:
Small enough to be comfortably concealed in a pocket.
Typically semi-automatic if not a Derringer.
Commonly chambered for .22, .25 ACP, .32 ACP, or .380 ACP.
Have been replaced in common usage by subcompact 9mm pistols.
These days we take holsters for granted. Whatever model of pistol you’ve chosen to carry, odds are you’ll have no trouble finding a holster that was made for it. For much of modern history, however, the only holster choices were the military belt-style which are worn on display for the world to see. Until recently, those who wished to conceal a handgun did so by either tucking the gun in their waistline “Mexican style,” or by choosing a pistol small enough to be carried in a pocket. Unergonomic and chambered for anemic calibers, it's understandable why the world moved on as technology progressed, but this ultra-small class of pocket pistols may still have their place.
The greatest argument against pocket pistols is the fact that they are chambered for calibers considered far too anemic for proper self-defense today. Colonel Jeff Cooper once said this on the subject:
“Carry a .25 if it makes you feel good, but do not ever load it. If you load it you may shoot it. If you shoot it you may hit somebody, and if you hit somebody, and he finds out about it, he may be very angry with you.”
It’s a funny quote, and there’s some truth to it, but it is directly at odds with another common adage:
Rule #1 of a gunfight: Bring a gun.
So, which to listen to? Ideally, both. While it’s true that a pocket pistol of any kind would prove too weak to dissuade a bear from mauling you, humans are not so resilient. During the pocket pistol’s heyday, they were as popular with grandmas as they were with criminals, and any coroner from this era will tell you that these mouse guns have put more than their fair share of people in the ground. Ultimately, shot placement if far more important than ballistic capability regardless of the round being fired. The efficiency of modern bullet construction has placed less emphasis on pistol marksmanship than there was during the days of FMJs, but it hasn’t changed the reality that a .22 in the eye will kill someone just as dead as emptying a box of 9mm into their chest.
This obviously is not an argument against carrying more powerful calibers with modern defensive loads, but it is an argument that having a pocket pistol is better than only having a knife or your fists.
Raven MP-25 “Saturday night special”. Photo: Wikipedia
Better Than Nothin’
How many times have you stepped out of your house unarmed because you’re “only checking the mail?” While it’s a pretty safe bet that your trip to the end of the driveway will be uneventful, you never know for sure. Pocket pistols fill that niche between “I want to be armed” and “I don’t want to get dressed”, offering a convenient way to carry a lethal weapon without donning jeans and a belt.
Pocket pistols’ primary draw is their unparalleled concealability. Whether being carried in an ankle holster, stuffed in a pocket or affixed to a spring-loaded arm contraption à la Travis Bickle, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better gun to do it with than a pocket pistol.
Robert De Niro in Taxi Driver with his S&W Escort. Photo: IMFDB
Picking The Best Pocket Pistol
For a class of gun that’s existence is justified by an “it's better than nothing” attitude, some might feel that not too much thought needs to be given to the selection process. Pocket pistols are also often used as backup guns, however, and even your plan B needs to be reliable. There are a wide variety of pocket pistols in existence, spanning a slew of different calibers, makes, models and designs. The issue is further complicated by the fact that many of these pistols are no longer in production and are only available used. Thankfully, however, there are still some good options on the market.
5 Great Pocket Pistol Options For 2022:
L.W. Seecamp Model 32 These little guns have been renowned in the pocket pistol world since they were first introduced around 1985. During pocket pistols’ height of popularity in the U.S., most models were imported out of Europe, and most of those were very cheap. This style of gun is what coined the phrase “Saturday night special”, and their importation was banned following the Gun Control Act of 1968. This law definitely contributed to the decline of pocket pistols’ popularity in the following decades, but Seecamp attempted to revive the concept by domestically producing their own take on it.
The most popular model, both then and now, is their Model 32. Chambered for .32 ACP. these pistols are double-action-only, delayed-blowback and have a six-round magazine capacity. They weigh less than 12-ounces unloaded, have an overall length of 4.25-inches and a width of less than 1-inch at their thickest point. Seecamp pistols have been extremely popular backup guns with law enforcement since their introduction, and most who own them find that they are very reliable with the right kind of ammunition. While most older models of pocket pistols will need to be hunted down on the second-hand market, these guys can still be bought new and have an MSRP of $510.
NAA Mini Revolvers One of the weakest points of pocket pistols is often their reliability. With most designs being automatics, there are a lot of moving parts that need to fit into a very small amount of space. While some auto pocket pistols can be extremely reliable, many shooters still have more faith in a wheelgun. Here’s where North American Arms comes in with their slew of different mini revolver designs. These guns are available in .22 Short, .22 LR and .22 Magnum, and they even have options for folding pistol grips and belt buckle holsters. The standard .22 LR version has a 5-shot cylinder, 4-inch length and a weight of 4.6-ounces unloaded. While these aren’t exactly hand-cannons, they are certainly lethal and enable their owners to comfortably conceal a reliable tool for self-defense. On top of all that, these are affordable and available as well, as they are still in production and have an MSRP of $239 for the most basic model.
Ruger LCP II Firearms design is all about compromise, and choosing the right model for you depends on what traits you value the most. While the Ruger LCP II is a bit larger than what many think of when they hear “pocket pistol,” it more than compensates for its size in other areas. Its overall length of 5.17-inches makes it about an inch longer than the Seecamp, but it can still fit in a pocket and its polymer frame helps keep it light. As one of the most modern guns on the list, the LCP II is held to contemporary standards of reliability, and its slightly larger size likely helps to facilitate that quality as well. While it has the same 6-round magazine capacity as the Seecamp, what sets the LCP II apart from the rest on this list is the fact that it is chambered for .380 ACP. A more powerful round means more recoil, but obviously provides better results on target as well. These guns are also still in production and the standard model has an MSRP of $419.
Beretta 3032 Tomcat Beretta has made pocket pistols for quite a long time, and they still have a few models in production. One of those is the 3032 Tomcat, a .32 ACP DA/SA pistol that feeds from a 7-round magazine. This gives it a higher capacity than the otherwise similar .32 Seecamp, but it’s also a bit larger and heavier as a result. If compactness isn’t your number one priority in a pocket pistol, however, the Tomcat has some features that keep it in the running as an interesting option. Firstly, as a DA/SA hammer-fired pistol with a manual thumb safety, the manual of arms is far more similar to common full-size pistols than most other pocket guns. Tomcats also feature a tip-up barrel design that enables them to be chambered without ever manually racking the slide. These are still available new and they have an MSRP of $539.
Zastava M70 The last position on this list is reserved for an oddball choice, because I can’t resist including at least one surplus Combloc gun. The Zastava M70 is the only pocket pistol featured here that is not available new, but enough were produced and imported that they are still available and affordable on the U.S. market. The biggest draw these still have in the current year is their price point, as they can still be commonly found for around $200. The M70 isn’t the smallest, lightest or most ergonomic pocket pistol you could get, but if you’re just looking for a cheap backup .32 that can still be comfortably carried in your trousers, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better option. These are single-action-only guns that descended from the Tokarev family, and the lineage is apparent when looking at one. While the M70 is a certifiable brick by comparison, for a similar price they offer a lot more firepower than an NAA Mini Revolver in .22 LR. These blowback pistols have 8-round magazine capacities, which helps compensate for their heft and size. While you would definitely notice one of these in your pocket more than the other options on this list, they’re at least cheap, reliable and still relatively compact.
What it takes to turn a muzzleloader kit into a functioning black powder firearm.
Fortunately for enthusiasts interested in making their own muzzleloader, there are a plethora of kits available on today’s market. Building a muzzleloader kit has always been something of a pastime between fathers and sons (and daughters), and it used to be something of a rite of passage for a kid to take their own gun out hunting. Because these are a relatively simple type of gun, building them from kits is relatively easy… except when it isn’t. To do it correctly can be time-consuming and, unlike more modular and common guns like the AR-15, each kit is going to be something of a unique case.
Building guns at home is a very fun hobby, but as time has gone on, the skills and tools required to do so have drastically changed. The increased modularity of modern firearms means that most rifle builds today are going to be accurate without glass bedding or adding pillars to the stock. The skills required to do these things have started to become rarer as fewer people have invested time in learning them. While installing an aluminum chassis on your bolt action requires nothing more than a few turns of an Allen key, building a muzzleloader kit usually isn’t that simple.
If you already have the skills to work wood and metal, making a muzzleloader from a kit can be easy. If you don’t have those skills, well, a muzzleloader kit is a great place to learn because they are relatively low risk and can be completed in a few different ways.
Most who decide to build a muzzleloader will end up starting with one of the kits commonly available at sporting goods stores, typically being either .45 or .50 caliber and featuring a Hawken-style half stock. These kits usually contain most of what you need to finish the gun immediately, and at their core are really just disassembled pre-fit builds. Very few of these kits require a huge amount of material removal and will likely only need some sanding, staining and light metal finish work. These types of muzzleloader kits are what you’d probably think of as the ‘Boyscout Special’.
Moving up in difficulty are muzzleloader kits that prioritize historical accuracy over being a simple project. Getting one of these built isn’t hard, but making it look right is not an easy task if you want a beautiful heirloom.There are several models of this style, and historical reenactment groups often recommend them to new members looking to join their ranks. Several companies make kits for the Civil War Springfield and Enfield rifle-muskets, while others produce variations of the German Jaeger flintlocks and various mainland European muskets. There are far too many to list here, but if you enjoy history and period-correct replicas, this is a rewarding challenge. For those who are truly committed, you could even try to replicate markings or simulate battle wear.
Many of these kits, most notably from makers like Kibler’s Longrifles, are completely modern, meticulously made semi-replicas that are among the most accurate for hunting and field use. These are kits similar to what you may see on the shelf at your nearby hardware store, but can cost upwards of ten times as much in some cases. However, they will likely last ten times as long too.
It is in this level of kit that you really begin to see cost climb as well as difficulty if you're doing it historically right. Even though these kits are almost drop-in, they do require a deep knowledge of traditional metalworking and woodworking to make them fit precisely and look correct. You’d not want to mess up the fit with globs of polyurethane or a cold blue wipedown.
Because their most critical parts are CNC machined to the highest quality, you’ll end up with a wood-to-metal fit that looks absolutely perfect, however the devil is in the details as you’ll need to make all your material removal laser-precise when engraving or adding inlays. Tuning these guns can result in extreme accuracy for what they are, and thanks to modern materials, the ignition, especially on the flint guns, is far better than it would be on originals. You begin to see things like enhanced nipples and flash holes on these high-end kits, and you should also see wonderful accuracy.
The last muzzleloader kit style worth mentioning is those that are in very rough shape. These are for experts only, and you really need a full shop with a slew of wood and metalworking tools to finish these. In this type of kit, the wood will arrive inletted, but not all the way. You’ll need to finish it all yourself, and you’d best be skilled with everything from Dremel tools to hand chisels to do so. The metal also arrives in what appears to be sorry shape. Brass, bronze, and iron fittings are usually sand cast and will come to you unfinished. You’ll need to even the surfaces out and polish them yourself. This advanced type of kit isn’t something a beginner would have fun with unless they know how to shape the materials. It may seem like a breeze to just deburr a buttplate, but it isn’t as easy as it looks. While some of the simpler kits can be completed in a weekend, expect a roughly finished kit to take much longer. You’ll be hand-fitting literally every part with sometimes very small tools, so if you want a long winter project with lots of on-the-job learning, this may fit your bill.
The Top Muzzleloader Kits And What They Require To Complete:
Traditions Kentucky Rifle Percussion Muzzleloader Kit This muzzleloader kit comes with the entire gun in the white and is about 95 percent ready for assembly. This is a 2/10 difficulty project and could be accomplished in a weekend.
Tools and Materials Needed: 80-, 120-, and 220-grit sandpaper, punch set, oil stain for the stock, brass polish compound, a screwdriver and a hand drill. Optional steps would require bluing or browning compound for the barrel. MSRP: $373 //traditionsfirearms.com.
Traditions 1861 Rifle Musket Kit This muzzleloader kit has all the parts necessary to construct a North-South Skirmish Association (N-SSA) approved rifle-musket in .58 caliber. This kit is about a 5/10 difficulty level if you’re concerned with historical accuracy, as it will need to be period-correct if you plan on taking it to any reenactment events. This kit is pre-fit at the factory, but it will still need to be finished.
Tools and Materials Needed: 80-, 120-, and 220-grit sandpaper, punch set, oil-based stain, a screwdriver and steel polishing compound. Historically, these guns were not blued, but you will want a period correct sling and bayonet to finish it out. MSRP: $975 //traditionsfirearms.com.
Kibler’s Longrifles Colonial Rifle Flintlock Kit While not an exact copy of any specific rifle, these flintlock kits are among the very best and offer a wide number of options and wood species from plain walnut to cherry to fancy maple. They are offered with smoothbore or rifled barrels in calibers up to .58. These are CNC machined, but the parts will still need to be lovingly fitted together. The difficulty level to just assemble one of these kits is only a 3/10, but doing traditional metal finishing and inlays would raise it to a 7/10.
Tools and Materials Needed: 80-, 120-, and 220-grit sandpaper, punch set, oil-based stain, a screwdriver and steel/brass polishing compound. You will also certainly want to put a browned finish on these barrels for an authentic look. For that, you will need compound and a heat source such as a torch, though there are ways to do this in a heated tank. Knowledge of special stains to use with certain types of wood is very beneficial here as are traditional metal finishing techniques. MSRP: $1,075-1,325 //kiblerslongrifles.com.
Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading Builder’s Kit This muzzleloader kit is the least finished on this list. It will require you to fit and finish everything, including inletting the stock and installing the breech plug on the barrel. This is a 10/10 difficulty kit.
Tools and Materials Needed: Just about everything you have. You’ll probably need to buy tools to finish this out unless you already have a full machine and wood shop. Advanced gunsmithing skills are also necessary. This will not be easy, but it provides the advanced craftsman with greater flexibility in making a custom rifle. MSRP: $950 //tvmnatchez.com.
Snub-nose revolvers are a staple of the defensive handgun world, but are they still worth carrying given other available options?
Commonly referred to as “snub-nose” or “snubby,” the sub-3-inch revolver has been a mainstay of self-defense for over 150 years and is even now a common, everyday item for millions of Americans. The thing about these guns is that they’ve always been a severe compromise and are, in terms of overall features and ammunition, something of a vestigial holdover of two bygone centuries. Nevertheless, we love these guns and their cartridges, and the technology around them has continued to improve.
S&W makes many flavors of J-frames, in various finishes and chamberings. The most practical is the .357 Mag., due to the fact that it can also chamber .38 Special, but there’s nothing wrong with carrying a straight .38 either.
Tradition Or Travesty?
Revolvers are deeply entrenched in the American mind—and for good reason. We relied on them on the frontier and while our nation expanded. Indeed, the brands in this article, Smith & Wesson and Colt, were present in these foundational episodes. There’s certainly a sentimentality about revolvers in this country, and this drives both dreams of yesteryear and ideas to make these guns more relevant in a semi-auto era.
I don’t see the development of new revolvers and ammunition as a net negative, nor do I feel that they are irrelevant for self-defense. If you spend a moment in the gun community, you’ll see that we have indeed come a long way in terms of how much ammo can be fit into a tiny polymer gun. Sig Sauer’s P365 is a perfect example, itself a trendsetter in that it opened a new competitive market for high-capacity micro nines. I have a P365 and carry it regularly; it holds 12+1 rounds as opposed to five with my favorite J-frame. Yet, when I go about town, I usually have the latter on me.
Colt has reintroduced much of their famous Snake Gun lineup. Both of these guns, the Colt King Cobra and the rare S&W Model 1989, have 3-inch barrels, which the author considers the absolute limit to merit a “snub nose” classification.
There’s a prevailing mindset that five shots are simply not enough. We live in a world where looters and rioters are apparently allowed to have the run of a whole city, and you may end up facing an armed mob of dozens. An old friend of mine once told me that in the modern day, a revolver is a gun you carry among civilized people in case of an anomaly, not something you have if you’re expecting violence in bad places. I don’t know how true this is overall, but the philosophy should be to have a gun in the first place, even if that gun isn’t the most advanced on the market.
Considerations For .38 & .357 Snub-Nose Revolvers
I carry a revolver most days as a regular item about my person. For me, the J-frame M&P 340 (no lock version) in .357 Mag. is just about ideal for going about my day. It’s exceedingly light and fits in a pocket. This merit alone ensures I have a supremely reliable self-defense gun on me, especially when I don’t feel like dealing with the weight of something larger. The size factor alone, combined with the reliability of a revolver, is the reason I carry it. I have plenty of other options; however, for my considerations and lifestyle, it’s excellent.
What I consider a strong benefit of these guns is ammunition variety. It’s true that there isn’t a huge amount of dedicated ammunition out there for short-barreled revolvers—most is geared to 4-inch guns or longer. Most .357 Mag. ammo out there is wasted in a short barrel in that, while it produces higher velocity and energy as compared to a .38 Special or .38 +P, it’s not often ideal for such small guns. I like that the S&W 340 has the ability to chamber and fire .357 Mag, but I don’t make a habit out of it, nor do I often carry it with anything other than .38 +P.
The .357 Mag. is welcome in a snub nose, but it’s really not at home. The author prefers this cartridge in a gun longer than 3 inches, as the velocity numbers increase exponentially with each inch gained. You can use these in a snubby, but you’re going to pay for it in recoil.
I really like the .357 Mag., but I like it most in guns over 3 inches just from a standpoint of getting more speed for the price paid in recoil. Dedicated .357 short-barrel loads are hard to come by, but they do exist. Buffalo Bore makes two loads advertised for the 2-inch class short-barrel .357 Mag., both featuring Barnes bullets, these being the XPB 125-grain and 140-grain at 1,225 fps and 1,150 fps, respectively.
These two 158-grain cast loads, from Federal (left) and Buffalo Bore (right), are hard to beat in a snubby. The Buffalo Bore load is hard cast and will drive deep, while the hollow point on the Federal load will more than likely expand and stop in an attacker thanks to its soft material.
I’ve tested these loads from several .357 Mag. revolvers and found that, while the velocity is definitely there, it’s the mechanical function of the bullet that sometimes isn’t. I’ve shot these loads in the 340, as well as the shorty eight-shot 327. About half the bullets failed to expand, even at point-blank range in bare gel, and offered penetration generally between 12 and 14 inches. Moving to a slightly longer barrel or a standard 4-inch yielded substantially better results.
In testing a wide variety of .38 Special and .357 Mag. ammo in short barrels, I’ve concluded that the only way to really get effective performance is to accept that you’re working with a compromise and reduce your variables accordingly.
Tried And True
There are plenty of good and great options out there for this class of firearm. I think that the ammunition variety alone is a reason to have one in that it’s not at all picky about what you put through it. While firing isn’t usually the problem, what that bullet does when it hits is another story.
Various .38 Special loads that perform well in a short barrel can take many forms and make use of vastly different types of bullets.
I’ve tested so many kinds of ammo from snubbies in gel and material that I need a full notebook to keep track of it. Failure rate of projectiles is high, a failure being constituted by a bullet not expanding, breaking apart or not offering sufficient penetration. Bullets are one of those things rarely tested by a third party.
In most of my testing in gel and materials, I’ve come to expect a 25-percent failure rate for any given projectile, but I’m confident in saying that it’s a much higher failure rate for snubby ammo. This has to do with the fact that most of these bullets are either too soft and break apart, sometimes on impact, or too hard to expand and deliver energy into tissue. The main culprit is that much of the advertising out there only looks at bare gel—the second you introduce even a basic T-shirt, the wheels start to fall off.
I look at it pragmatically: If you can’t guarantee a velocity necessary to allow for a bullet to expand reliably, you need to remove that from the equation. The technology around short-barreled revolvers should, in my opinion, be focused entirely on penetration and nothing else. Expansion is great, but if you’re starting with as little barrel as you can physically have, there needs to be something that gives. This is the case in point for why this technology was perfected so long ago, but at the time it wasn’t known to be at its peak.
Modern bullet construction has greatly helped the issues with bullet failure. Hornady Critical Defense and Critical Duty loads are tough and reliable in terms of expansion. They are a choice load for most revolvers in general.
Big-Bore Snubs
The weird world of revolvers encompasses guns so small they fit on a belt buckle … and guns so large they’re chambered in the likes of .45-70 Government. There are plenty of guns we count as “big-bore” that fit into the snub-nose category. Many of these are specially made pieces in .44 Special or .44 Magnum, .41 Mag., and even rounds like .480 Ruger. These sub-3-inch guns are almost universally meant for self-defense in places where you have a greater chance of getting eaten than robbed.
Keith bullets in .38 Special and .44 Special are very hard to beat. These are both factory Buffalo Bore loads, and they’re as potent in energy and lethal on target just as they were decades ago.
The .44 Special is one of the unsung heroes of the snubby world. On merit of size and ballistics, it’s almost impossible to beat. Not only can it launch 200-grain bullets at 1,000 fps from a 2.75-inch barrel, but it also offers low recoil and is quite easy to master for most shooters. Smith & Wesson makes a gun called the 69 Combat Magnum (it’s in fact chambered for .44 Mag. but can shoot .44 Special). I’ve put countless rounds through it and love everything about it—except that it’s made of steel and weighs 35 ounces. What I want is that exact profile but with a 2-inch barrel and made in scandium and titanium, ideally in the 20-ounce range.
While I can keep dreaming about my ideal .44 Special, there are plenty of other short-barreled revolvers out there in more practical offerings like .45 ACP. I have a rare Model 1989 in .45 ACP with a 3-inch barrel. While on the edge of what we call a snubby, it’s fantastic using .45 Auto Rim brass for heavy loads. I use a jacketed Hornady 200-grain XTP .451-inch bullet in this for 1,150 fps, and it shoots point of aim to 50 yards.
The author's rare S&W Model of 1989 in .45 ACP.
Notable Snubbies
Kimber has pleasantly surprised me with their K6. Not only is it a very well made and reliable gun, it also holds six rounds in the same general size as the five in a Smith J-frame. I really like that they pulled this off, and the ones that I’ve handled and fired have been very nice considering that Kimber is so new to the revolver game. It’s slightly heavy as compared to a comparable Smith, but it’s an entirely new design.
Colt has recently come back swinging with their revolver offerings. I’ve had the pleasure of firing most of their new “classics” and found them to be very slick. Like the K6, they boast a six-shot capacity but are again slightly larger than the J-frame. I really appreciate that Colt has come back with these; collectors and purists aren’t exactly happy, but I’m completely fine with them. I especially like their Night Cobra.
Smith & Wesson’s J-frame is one of the most common and popular snubbies available. This one has seen thousands of rounds and has been exceptionally accurate and reliable.
Ruger has always had some great snubbies—their LCR redefined the class when it was introduced. If you count their large guns as “short barreled,” they make some of the most powerful sub-3-inch guns around.
Well, Should You?
With all the exceptional polymer concealed carry guns available, carrying a snubby these days is certainly controversial, especially when considering ammunition to feed it. My best advice is to do your homework, determine what works best for you and your lifestyle … and then train like your life depends on it, because it might.
Without that training, hitting a target (imminent threat) while under a tremendous amount of stress means that errant rounds are going to be as much of a concern as potential over-penetration.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the CCW 2022 special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Federal has announced that 30 Super Carry is now available in both their American Eagle and HST ammunition lines, making it ready for both training and defense.
Federal Ammunition officially unveiled their new cartridge, 30 Super Carry, at SHOT Show 2022. Many walked away impressed, but others had their doubts about its viability given that the defensive handgun market has seemingly already crowned 9mm as king of the jungle. Regardless, only time will tell if 30 Super Carry can make the cut or if it will go the way of .45 GAP and .357 SIG. Since Federal has just announced the addition of 30 SC to both their American Eagle and HST ammunition lines, shooters will finally be able to start testing this new cartridge the way it deserves.
For Training
A defensive handgun is useless without the ability to train with it, so relatively affordable ammunition is a must for any cartridge intended for such a role. With Federal’s announcement that 30 Super Carry will soon be available in their American Eagle line, this new cartridge will suddenly become a more viable option. American Eagle 30 SC will feature 100-grain, full metal jacket projectiles that have an advertised muzzle velocity of 1,250 feet per second. They will be available in boxes of 50 with an MSRP of $31.99, giving the bullets a cost of about 64 cents per round.
For Defense
Federal’s HST line has become one of the standard defensive loads in the handgun world, so it was no surprise when 30 Super Carry was added to the list of available calibers. This variety of 30 SC will also feature 100-grain projectiles with an advertised muzzle velocity of 1,250 fps, but naturally will be loaded with HST jacketed hollow points instead of FMJs. 30 Super Carry HSTs are available in 20-round boxes with an MSRP of $36.99, giving each round a price tag of about $1.85.
It's not easy to build a 1911, but if you want a custom gun with a personal touch, it can be a worthy pursuit.
I’m something of a new dinosaur in my generation. I don’t own much technology, I hunt and grow much of my own food, and I have a deep-set love for the 1911. I’m an old man at an early age, apparently. In the course of my experiences with this venerable platform, I’ve come to respect it for its reliable performance, both mechanically and in terms of accuracy.
That said, I’ve also come to understand the valley between working on modern guns, such as a Glock or P320, and the 1911. I have hundreds of working hours on the 1911, and I can honestly say that 90 percent of those hours were spent screwing something up.
Building a 1911 offers many options, but a finished product takes a great deal of time.
1911 Building Vs. Buying
Building a 1911 by hand doesn’t mean it’ll turn out functional or accurate. The crux of the argument here is that, in theory, a hand-built 1911 will give you pride in ownership as well as bragging rights in addition to tighter tolerances. Some would consider it to be an apex of personal ability to get one of these guns up and running from their choice parts, and for many this is true. I love the pistols I’ve put sweat and blood into, but there’s always the nagging doubt that I didn’t do something correctly.
The first consideration you’ll need to make when looking at a project like this is just what you plan to get out of it. If it is, in fact, the journey you seek, then by all means put in the effort. If you’re trying to save a dollar, this isn’t the way to go. I really can’t make sense of people who think they’re somehow saving money by spending a minimum of 40 hours, maybe more, on top of parts cost, to come out with a gun that might—and might is a strong word here—be better performing than a factory gun.
The Colt M45A1 is a good-to-go 1911 right out of the box. A factory-built pistol like this comes with night sights, a match barrel and a great trigger. For the cost of a gun like this, you get pretty much everything you need. Can you build one better? Maybe, but it’ll get expensive.
I’m never one to judge a person’s financial status, and it’s true that not everyone can afford a $4,000 1911; however, there are many wrong ways to go about this. It’s not just the finished product you’ll end up with, but also a host of specialized tools necessary to make this old warhorse start running. I’ve done it with a few tools, the wrong tools and the right tools, and somehow there’s little difference: You’ll make a mistake, regardless of how well prepared you are.
Are you willing to eat the cost of a barrel you incorrectly machined? How about a frame or a slide? The associated cost of building one of these guns can be a deterrent, and you might end up with more money in tools than you have in the gun.
What I’d recommend is to write down a list of features you want your 1911 to have, such as barrel length, caliber, hammer and trigger style, and then look for a factory gun that closely approximates what you want. It might surprise you when you total up the shopping cart that your dream gun is as much as 50 percent more expensive than just biting the bullet and going with a full-featured factory gun.
With all that said, the reward of shooting a gun you built is substantial. Again, I don’t intend this to be a deterrent, but rather a call to fully investigate the requirements. Let’s have a look.
Diligence Required
To build a 1911—at a bare minimum—you’ll need a Dremel tool with basically every attachment made, a good table-top vice, drill press, files, sandpaper, lapping compound, staking tool, radius cutting jig, various punches and drift tools, calipers, lug cutters, a case of beer for your frustrations and a good bit of time on your calendar.
This isn’t a fast process; the fastest I ever built was 3 weeks, working on it a piece at a time. Average time spent on one is probably 3 to 6 months.
Fully customizing a frame is an easy route to success. Here, the author’s 1911 sports LOK grips, Cylinder & Slide internals, a checkered mainspring housing and a cleanly hand-fit RMR slide from Brownells. The only Sig part on the gun is the frame; the rest is aftermarket.
A lot of the problem with building a full pistol is that, if it’s your first build, you’ll also be learning how to use the tools. Instruction videos are a great resource, but they don’t allow you to get a proper feel for how the parts should look after they’ve been worked on by specialized tools.
I find this to be the hardest part of the whole process, because there’s a wide degree of variance between parts across manufacturers, and this can lead to problems on a wide scale. What if the slide you bought allows your barrel to drop right in? Is something very right or very wrong? I’ve had it happen where the lugs on the barrel were correct, but the lugs in the slide were too large. I thought it was an incorrect fit on the barrel and began working it over. You can guess what that bad calculation cost me.
Unlike today’s drop-in parts on the AR and Glock, the 1911 requires every part to be measured and looked at in detail. I don’t want to come across as pessimistic here, but you must check every single thing, even the tension of springs and how they work together. Building one of these guns can be so frustrating that you might end up just putting the parts in a bin and using them as replacements for your factory guns as need be. I’ve been there myself.
A radius jig is needed to cut a proper angle for installing a safety into the frame. You can get away with drop-in safeties, but they don’t look as clean or have as nice of a feel to them. This is an example of a tool you can’t get away without using.
The Cheater’s Way
If you want a custom 1911 but don’t want to mess around with the heavy lifting, I have a method that I greatly prefer. Some purists will call me a cheater for doing things this way, but I think my version of custom building is perfectly sensible—and it results in an accurate and reliable pistol virtually every time.
My method is to locate used 1911s at my local stores or online listings and completely strip them down to the frame. Why would I waste my time with this when I basically bought a 1911 used and have a working gun? Well, what I’m after is the frame here because many of the factory guns I find out there are lacking in features and have subpar internal parts. What I enjoy about a factory frame is that it’s finished with parts that I know fit.
Starting off with a frame is a large undertaking. Note that this one has fitted rails, but the slide in question was severely damaged because of a bad measurement. Mistakes happen, and they can be costly with the 1911.
When I go in and measure the new parts, I can compare them to the old ones to draw exact numbers and specs, and then I can go about fitting them. If I want to go tighter, I can … knowing how much space I have to work with.
This way of doing things creates little if any frame work to be done, and the most labor will be fitting the new slide and barrel, which again should be easy, considering that the correct measurements are right there on the original parts.
My personal preference of frames is Sig Sauer. It’s a personal thing, but I dislike the “profile” on their slides and external extractors. I’m also not a fan of the Series 80 safety internals … but I like those Sig frames. The best part about going with a Sig frame is that it’s hard stainless steel, and the frame rails are usually just a hair (actually less than a hair) oversized, which really lets me get in there and make a precision fit to the slide. The fact that the Sig frames usually come pre-checkered on the front of the grip is also a plus for me because I can ensure my finished pistol has a coherent and functional wrap-around texture.
I’ve used other frames for this type of work in the past; many don’t require any modification at all and will readily accept new slides and barrels. In these cases, the pleasure of building the pistol is often over too quickly, and I’m left with a great gun but empty project hours.
What about the extra parts from the stripped frame? Well, I keep these as backups in case something goes wrong with the custom gun. If I need them, the extra parts are ready to go. Selling them is another option, and you might actually be able to fund most of the new parts by selling the old ones.
The Brownells staking tool is critical for a 1911 build. You can also use this tool to replace or repair plunger tubes on used guns. It’s a specialized tool that every 1911 enthusiast should own. I can’t even recall the number of used guns I’ve seen with loose tubes out there.
A Build By Any Other Name
The prevailing idea among 1911 guys is that my “cheater” method is somehow the wrong way to do it. I counter this with asking if it’s any less of a build to start a bolt-action on a custom action, or an AR on a stripped receiver. A custom bolt-action build is usually just a matter of attaching a barrel and chambering it, but how about a Remington build? Never has a person told me that buying a factory 700 and sending it in to be rebarreled and trued out is the “wrong” way to do it.
I ask the 1911 purists just how many parts need to be hand-fitted for a pistol to be custom, or how many factory parts are allowed to remain? I can’t get a clear answer, so I take my method as being effective and safe for the home builder to learn the craft. When it comes down to it, there’s just so much that can go wrong on a hand-build that taking this mid-level step is important to understand how the 1911 works.
If you have a new slide you want installed and know that your frame is fitted and working, you can focus on just fitting that slide. Once you have that knowledge, you can work on the barrel and so on and so forth. It’s easier to learn one step at a time and piece by piece than it is to take on the whole elephant. Is your 1911 “custom” with a new safety? I’d say maybe not, but even I don’t know where the line is between an accessorized factory gun and a custom gun on a factory frame.
1911 Builder Beware
If you do decide to take on this mighty challenge, I’d start small and buy a 1911 to begin fitting custom parts to. You can always put the old ones back on if you need to. Building is and always will be a rewarding experience, and it’s my advice to ask for help when you have a question. Messing up is never more than a Dremel slip away … and that can be costly.
The true cost to build a 1911 is in the tooling, and you must also beware that these tools will get you close, but perhaps not all the way. The little bits of missing know-how are what’ll hang you up, and just having all the tools isn’t enough to make a perfect build.
This is a skilled undertaking, and often not a quick plug-and-play tabletop project. So long as you’re aware of this, you’ll likely make the 1911 gods happy with your offering.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the October 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Want a black powder revolver but don’t know where to start? Here are a few of the best models currently on the market.
A common stereotype regarding black powder revolvers is they are dirty, slow loading and inaccurate. Luckily, only two of those things are true. You can expect excellent accuracy out of these old wheelguns if you know how to load them properly, but the affair will be neither clean nor fast. As firearms technology progressed over the years, a great deal of knowledge concerning black powder revolvers has been lost. While their designs are antiquated today, even some of history’s most famous duelists, such as Wild Bill Hickok, used cap-and-ball revolvers well into the cartridge era. This brings us to the first of five highly recommended black powder revolvers.
Uberti 1851 Navy .36 Caliber
Wild Bill’s favorite pistols were Navy revolvers, and he had one on him during his famous duel with Davis Tutt—widely considered the first-ever quickdraw showdown. Tutt was shot once in the chest at 75 yards and was killed near-instantly. Many folks today wouldn’t believe that a little .36-caliber ball has that capability. However, when the Colt Navy was introduced in 1850, it was the premier weapon of its day and is mentioned substantially in period literature where it is praised, even over the later Army version. You too can get in on the action for a relatively low buy-in price. Not only is the Uberti Navy affordable, but it is also quite cheap to shoot and very accurate to boot! This is a great starter gun for new black powder revolver shooters and easy to become proficient with. MSRP: $349-399
Taylor’s & CO 1858 Remington Target
If you have a flair for the old but want some of the features of the new, the Taylor’s 1858 Target is the gun for you. It is a cap-and-ball revolver but features modern-style target sights that are fully adjustable. A large part of the difficulty surrounding fixed-sight black powder revolvers is that their point of aim and point of impact may vary by a magnitude of feet past a certain range. For those who want the extra challenge of hunting with a black powder revolver, this particular model makes it easier to get on target and stay there. Taylor’s also has a conversion cylinder that allows this model to fire low-pressure .45 Colt cartridges. MSRP: $607.88
Taylor’s LeMat Cavalry Revolver
The LeMat is certain to draw attention at the range… or wherever else you want to take it. Not only is it a staggering 9-shot .44 caliber revolver, but it also has an integrated 20ga smoothbore barrel! You're packing ten rounds with this bad boy, one potentially a load of buckshot. This pistol isn’t a new invention, utilized by Confederate cavalry during the Civil War. It is certainly the most expensive black powder revolver on this list, but it is arguably the most unique and visually striking as well. MSRP: $1,383.53
Pietta 1836 Texas Paterson
The Colt-Paterson revolver is considered to be the first successful revolver design in history. It was patented by Samuel Colt in 1836 and is the ancestor of all modern revolvers we have today. It has a ‘hidden trigger’ that pops out when the hammer is cocked, making for a rather unique appearance. This Pietta is a working and firing copy of the original design and would make a rather good conversation piece at the range. Of interest is that the Paterson was created concurrent to the fall of the Alamo, which also occurred in 1836. The parties involved largely had flintlocks, which few realize overlapped with the original Colt revolvers. MSRP: $890
Dixie/Pietta Revolver Kits
If you are in the mood to try a revolver build or learn more about their internal workings, the Dixie build kits are worth considering. Available in various models, they come pre-fit but unfinished and without engraving. They present a great opportunity to experiment with metal finishing and various types of scrollwork, should you want to get practice on a real gun without having to buy and strip down finished examples. It’s not particularly challenging to put one of these kits into working order, but for many, the real work is in creating a visually appealing final product. MSRP: $245
A bonus pick is the Taylor’s Howdah black powder pistol. While not a revolver, it is a pretty cool little gun that has a great deal of history behind it. It was designed as a self-defense gun for hunters riding on the backs of elephants, mainly as a deterrent against tigers. It has 20-gauge smoothbore barrels and can use a variety of shot types. Because it uses standard revolver caps, it is a good companion for your other black powder revolvers. MSRP: $1,036.21
Honestly, you needn’t get a trigger job on your pistol or break out your wood-burning kit to stipple its grips to upgrade your carry rig. There are plenty of down-to-earth, sober options that will make you a more efficient armed citizen and the whole process a load easier. To boot, most of them fall within any shooter’s price range and will end up being money well spent. With that in mind, here are 4 Must-Have Concealed Carry Upgrades that are certain to enhance going armed.
Grips
A proper grip is a cornerstone to accurately delivering defensive fire from a handgun. In addition to mitigating recoil, thus making the handgun more comfortable and controllable, the correct grip also ensures you’ll hit what you’re aiming at. Grips are a design aspect gunmakers have turned their eyes to in recent years, offering much more aggressive texturing to facilitate a more positive purchase. If you aren’t lucky enough to have a brand-spanking-new carry pistol, there are still ways to get a handle on your handgun. There are tons of aftermarket grip options, among the simplest concealed carry upgrades, from manufacturers such as Hogue, Blackhawk and Pachmayr.
Talon Grips (pictured above) offers one of the simplest with its wrap-around peel and stick grips, tailored to a vast spectrum of popular handgun makes and models. Available in aggressive granulated and rubberized variations, the modification only takes minutes to apply and greatly enhances the control of a firearm.
G-10 is another material that has been a popular choice for aftermarket pistol grips in recent years. Made out of a type of compressed fiberglass laminate, G-10 can be made incredibly thin while remaining very strong. While beefy rubber grip sleeves like the ones made by Hogue tend to be preferred by those with larger hands, G-10 grips are a great choice for anyone who wants to add texture to their handgun without increasing its bulk.
Magazine Holder
If you carry concealed, you should carry spare ammunition. This isn’t as simple as it sounds, because you aren’t just throwing a few extra rounds in your pocket and calling it good. You need to have it easily accessible and ready to manipulate when you have a tanker load of adrenaline pumping through your veins. This is an easier problem to solve for those who carry semi-automatics with much more clandestine magazine carry options. For those who want to carry at the beltline, Alien Gear has a slick system in its Cloak Mag Carriers (pictured above). The units can be carried inside and outside the waistband. The unit can even be set at a cant to run perpendicular to the belt itself.
Among the most intriguing concealed carry upgrade in this arena are pocket magazine holsters, such as the SnagMag and ExtraCarry that keep spare ammo at hand, while breaking up the profile of the magazine. Extra rounds for revolver shooters can be a bit trickier. Wheelgunners are still stuck with speedloaders, pouches and Bianchi Speedstrips. None of them are ideal, due to size or reload speed, but they’ll do the job.
Night Sights
A deadly assault can happen any time, even in broad daylight. But that doesn’t mean that you won’t have to defend yourself in the dusk or dark. Night sights are among the most prudent concealed carry upgrades. Presently, tritium night sights are the go-to choice for those looking to make certain they have a clear sight picture in low light. They offer a great advantage over other night sights, given the radioluminescent hydrogen isotope is continuously aglow, thus always ready for action. TrueGlo, Trijicon (pictured above) and Meprolight all offer excellent options for nearly any conceivable make and model of handgun. But perhaps you’d like to take it up a notch and consider a laser sight. These handy aiming solutions shouldn’t be considered replacements for traditional sights, since electrical devices can malfunction or run out of battery power. But something such as the Crimson Trace Rail Master does provide an outstanding way to get on target in dusky conditions.
Gun Belt
Are you still using that strap you got at a department store’s summer sale to tote your gun? No wonder your rig is so danged uncomfortable. Your average everyday belt just doesn’t cut it when it comes to concealed carry, though there are plenty of folks who try to jam that square peg into a round hole. A gun belt, among the most overlooked concealed carry upgrades, ties your whole carry system together, makes sure your handgun is where it needs to be on the draw and makes carry just a whole heck of a lot easier. Nice thing is, there are plenty of concealed carry belts out there that won’t draw attention and provide the rigidity required to support a handgun. Galco, one of the oldest holster makers around, knows gun leather and has a good selection of leather belts, as does Crossbreed (pictured above). If you're looking for something nylon, Blackhawk and Ares both are excellent places to start.
There’s a new type of CCW belt that’s been gaining popularity lately too, commonly known as micro-adjustment belts. They’re made by a few different companies including Nexbelt and Kore Essentials, but the general concept remains the same between all of them—these belts feature no traditional holes or buckles, and instead use an internal ratcheting system that allows for much more precise adjustments to be made. This is a great feature for anyone who frequently switches up the gun, holster or position they carry in, or just for keeping your gun secure regardless of how your waist size may fluctuate.
Looking for a new iron or piece of kit to enhance the one you already own? Check out these 7 new bits of guns and gear to grow your firearms wish list.
Best known for its relatively affordable and well-built 1911 pistols, Rock Island Armory has seemed to buck recent trends. And, despite jumping into the striker-fired pistol market, the Filipino company still is. That’s because the STK100 isn’t your ordinary striker-fired. Built around an aluminum frame, the 17-round 9mm offers the advantages of metal—such as a bit more heft for excellent recoil mitigation. Further enhancing the pistol is a beavertail that helps facilitate a fundamental high grip, positive grip texturing, a Picatinny accessories rail and front and rear cocking serrations. The STK100 also comes optic-ready, with a slide cut for the addition of a red-dot. MSRP: $599
Federal Premium Shorty Force X2
When shotgun firepower is at a premium, Federal’s newest shotshell delivers without compromise. The Shorty Force X2 might only measure 1.75 inches in length, but it serves up a lethal payload of Federal’s segmented buckshot. Six of them to be exact. Designed to split upon impact, the shot has the potential to create 12 devastating wound channels—which is more than enough to neutralize a threat. What’s more, the unique projectiles lessen the chance of pass through, thus collateral damage, making them fit for CQB and home defense. Not to mention, for most guns, it nearly doubles capacity. MSRP: $29/Box Of 10
Standard Manufacturing Toros Coppola T4
Benelli’s M1014 shotgun is proven—used by the Marine Corps—but costly. However, Standard Manufacturing offers up the same combat-proven technology at a fraction of the price in its slick Toros T4 12-gauge. Aside from its tactical features—such as ghost-ring sight, 5.25-inch Picatinny rail and pistol grip—the scattergun’s biggest draw is digesting whatever it’s fed. Based on the Italian system, the gas-driven gun chews through both high- and low-wall brass, making it extremely versatile for home defense. Additionally, the Toros is as reliable as tomorrow morning—able to take its licks and still deliver punishment trigger pull after trigger pull. MSRP: $899
Crimson Trace Micro Pro RAD Electronic Sight
Once known only for its on-target laser sights, Crimson Trace has expanded its horizons to optics in recent years—much to the benefit of shooters. Case in point: its Micro Pro RAD reflex optic. Among the most compact options on the market today, the aluminum-housed red-dot is ideal for EDC pistols or the heater you keep in your bedstand—just in case something goes bump in the night. With a highly visible 3-MOA dot and multi-coated lens, the aim solution offers extremely fast and intuitive target acquisition. And, its CT Radiant Ambient Light Sensor and CT Motion Sensor get the optic into the fight as soon as you are. MSRP: $275
Trijicon RMRcc
It’s difficult to study a Trijicon optic and not walk away amazed. Take the company’s RMRcc: At 1 ounce in weight and 1 inch in width and height, the red-dot is as inconspicuous as honesty in a politician. Yet, the red-dot outperforms nearly everything on the market. Meticulously tested to meet military standards, the reflex optic is as rugged as they come. And with brilliantly clear coated glass, the unit delivers an unparalleled aiming window, with its 3- and 6.5-MOA aiming dots getting you on target fast. MSRP: $699
Hornady Security RAPiD Safe Shotgun Wall Lock
A homeowner’s conundrum: How do you keep a firearm secure, yet within reach? Hornady has put plenty of thought into the problem and has cooked up a fairly elegant answer—the RAPiD Safe Shotgun Wall Lock. Mounting directly to a wall, the 14-gauge steel box keeps a defensive smoothbore under lock and key when not needed. Yet, at a moment’s notice, the RFID system puts the gun in your hands. And you needn’t worry if you don’t have the fob or bracelet key at hand, with a backup six-digit code and a physical key unlocking the unit. MSRP: $275
Mossberg 590S Series
Among the most trusted names in defensive shotguns, Mossberg has only continued to improve on its already stellar legacy. The 590S series of 12-gauge pump-actions keeps what’s right with the iconic 500 line … but it throws some very welcome tweaks. Perhaps the most notable is the ability to cycle 1.75-, 2.75- and 3-inch shotshells interchangeably without the need for an adapter. This makes the Shockwave model firearm—with its very manageable birdshead grip—the perfect home-defense option. At once, the 30-inch gun is nimble and overpowering. Plus, with the ability to hold up to 9+1 shells, it’s also more than satisfying in firepower. MSRP: $623
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
B&T USA has just announced the 16-inch SPC9 Carbine, a new variant of their 9mm SPC9 PCC.
SPC9 stands for “Special Purpose Carbine 9”, and it’s a new line of 9mm firearms released by B&T earlier this year. When originally shown, the SPC9 series only consisted of short-barrel PCC-style models, but B&T has just announced the release of a new 16-inch SPC9 Carbine variant.
Like the other models in the SPC9 series, the new SPC9 Carbine combines the best features of the B&T APC9, H&K MP5 and AR-15 weapons systems. The result is a 9mm carbine that B&T claims to be supremely light, reliable, safe and modular.
A primary reason for the SPC9’s handling qualities stems from B&T’s hydraulic buffer system. The system not only reduces recoil, but also increases accuracy and allows for faster follow-up shots. It also puts less wear on the internals of the firearm and any optics mounted on it, making the SPC9 a great choice for competition shooters or anyone who puts a high round count through their PCCs.
This diagram shows the B&T hydraulic buffer system in a shorter-barreled SPC9 model.
Jon Scott, Vice President of Sales at B&T USA, said this about the SPC9 Carbine:
The new 16-inch barreled SPC9 is a PCC competitors dream — the carbine is incredibly flat shooting, handles like a race car and has minimal recoil thanks to B&T’s effective hydraulic buffer system…We expect the SPC9 16-inch to dominate both at home and on the competitive field, thanks to an ideal formula of features. Those in search of a premium home defense solution would be well served by this very lightweight, well balanced and incredibly easy to shoot well platform — flatteringly so. Most importantly the SPC9 has a proven record of reliability, produced by a company who has built its reputation on being dependable in the most austere conditions imaginable.
When it comes to Ruger 10/22 mods, a little tweaking can go a long way.
In the more than 7 million copies produced, you’d be hard-pressed to find a serious gun owner who hasn’t owned at least one Ruger 10/22 at some point in their shooting career. Even though the rifle is one of the most common in America, some shooters overlook the diamond in the rough due to the 10/22 carbine’s unassuming hardwood stock and pencil barrel—the truth is, they don’t look very exciting.
While the standard Ruger 10/22 carbine looks boring, it’s well-suited to either modify till your heart’s content or introduce a new shooter to marksmanship in stock form.
You see, that’s the beauty of the Ruger 10/22. Its simple design is anything you can dream up; you can build it into a rifle that’s truly yours. Sure, the 10/22 is a fine rifle in stock form, but where is the fun in that? Aftermarket companies have fully embraced the easy customizing of the design with enough options to make your head spin.
Ruger’s Custom Shop gives you the option of buying a hot rod without all the guesswork.
If your heart desires a rifle that looks fit to beat back alien invaders, you might want to look into some of the shells that accept a barreled 10/22 receiver to transform it into a bullpup. How about a rifle that looks like it belongs to a Special Forces operator in some far-off land? One of the tactical chassis that make a 10/22 look strikingly like an HK G36 or an AR-15 might be the ticket. Most opt for accuracy and build a rifle well-suited for use in Project Appleseed events or something with a high-quality bull barrel and a sweeping laminate wood stock so accurate that it makes shooting the tacks off your buddy’s targets almost dull.
Even with all that flexibility, three of the four 10/22 rifles in my safe are nearly identical. After owning north of a dozen of these excellent rifles since I started shooting, I found that a rugged, lightweight rifle happily at home bouncing around in a pack or traipsing around the woods fits my needs quite well. That isn’t to say I haven’t had the laminate stocked hot rod or even an entirely stock rifle; this happens to be where I am in my 10/22 journey currently.
Ruger Factory Hot Rods
If modifying your rifle isn’t your jam, Ruger offers several models that come off the production line looking very similar to a living room-built hot rod for pretty close to the same money. If you’re after a cool-looking takedown, the 10/22 Takedown Lite sports an upgraded modular stock and a lightweight bull barrel with 1/2×28 threads ready for a suppressor.
Ruger even offers a left-handed rifle with all the trimmings for lefty shooters.
If your tastes run toward the heavy barreled target rifles, Ruger’s target or competition line of rifles will have something that gets the juices flowing. Surprisingly, even the high-end 10/22 Competition rifles top out at just a hair over a grand MSRP, which is a pretty solid value when you consider it comes out of their custom shop.
10/22 Clones
Since the Ruger 10/22 patent expired, a handful of companies introduced rifles that are the next evolution of the 10/22 design. Innovative rifles are readily available from Bergara, Thompson Center, Magnum Research, Volquartsen, Tactical Solutions and Winchester, which incorporate more modern features generally found on higher-end custom shop rifles.
Each variation brings its own special flavor to the venerable design, like the interesting slider approach to a magazine release Winchester took or Magnum Research’s .22 Magnum variant of the 10/22 should you want more oomph.
The Volquartsen Summit is arguably one of the coolest variants of the 10/22 design. Even though it isn’t semi-automatic and features a straight-pull bolt similar to biathlon rifles, it still accepts most 10/22 accessories. It’ll be incredibly quiet once you throw a suppressor on the threaded carbon-fiber barrel.
Originally a PWS design, the Volquartsen Summit features an interesting straight-pull bolt instead of being semi-auto.
Build A Receiver
Now, if you’re a perpetual tinkerer like myself, starting with a bare receiver might be the most cost-effective solution. The best bang for your buck is the Brownells BRN-22 receivers that come either stripped or as a barreled receiver. The BRN-22 can be had in either a non-takedown or takedown variants with your choice between a more modern integrated optics rail or the traditional drilled and tapped style.
Even with an optic and suppressor fitted, the Brownells BRN22 Takedown is still small enough to stow in a backpack.
Volquartsen and Tactical Solutions offer very similar semi-auto receivers; you couldn’t go wrong with either one. If a premium receiver is what you’re after and you want something more understated, the Volquartsen is a good bet. Those who like more flash should look at the Tactical Solutions X-Ring.
While there are a ton of other receivers out there, most of them are pretty comparable to one another except for the unique Volquartsen Summit straight-pull bolt-action receiver I mentioned earlier. While pricey, nothing compares to the Summit action when paired with a suppressor and some subsonic ammo.
Magazines
Since most models of the Ruger 10/22 ship with a single 10-round magazine, adding some more to your mag stash is a good idea to get the most out of your range time. Shooting 10 rounds and reloading a singular magazine gets old fast; thankfully, there are a ton of really great options out there that range from a single-shot magazine up to big ol’ drum mags.
Winchester took a very different approach with the Wildcat’s magazine release that almost looks ornamental but is very functional.
If one of the Ruger-produced BX magazines isn’t to your liking, look for one that uses metal feed lips. Cheaper magazines with plastic feed lips will wear over time and eventually experience feeding issues. The gold standard for non-Ruger mags has been the Butler Creek Steel Lips for as long as I can remember, but unless you have to have a 110-round drum, there isn’t a great reason not to buy Ruger’s excellent BX magazines.
10/22 Internal Upgrades
If you buy a stock rifle, some minor internal tweaks will improve reliability and accuracy with a minimal cash investment. Some of the more common upgrades are replacing the extractor with one designed to handle cheap bulk pack ammo more reliably or installing an aftermarket firing pin for more reliable primer ignition.
Adding a bolt buffer to slow the bolt down a bit makes suppressed shooting quieter and can improve reliability with hot ammo. While you have the bolt out, it might be worth replacing the charging handle with one that’s easier to use with a magnified optic mounted.
Once you’ve done all of that, some 10/22s benefit from an aftermarket V-block to get a tighter barrel-to-receiver fit that squeezes the last little bit of accuracy out of your rifle.
Thompson Center’s T/CR22 massaged by their Performance Center is a great value at the $642 MSRP.
Triggers
Pulling the trigger feels a whole lot like someone was eating Fritos while the trigger pack was assembled. Thankfully, you can take a couple of routes to address the less-than-stellar trigger—the easiest of which is to replace the OEM trigger pack with Ruger’s upgraded BX-Trigger.
Some DIY solutions are out there, but they’ll run you about the same money as a BX-Trigger, making it hard to justify. Kits like the Powers Custom result in a slightly better trigger pull than the BX-Trigger but require more work to install. If you’re willing to spend a few more dollars, the absolute best option is an aftermarket drop-in trigger from Volquartsen, Timney or CMC Triggers.
Stocks
While triggers and internal upgrades are nice, a new stock truly transforms a rifle. As is always the case, the kind of stock you choose is entirely dependent on what you want out of your rifle. For rifles often in the woods where exposure to rain or other moisture is a concern, a synthetic stock is a great idea, since the wood will swell when wet and can affect your zero.
The Magpul line of stocks for the 10/22 is very functional while looking cool. Specifically, the Backpacker takedown stock is something special, thanks to a place to store some ammo on the rifle and the frond that mates to the stock keeping the rifle together when stowed.
The Boyds At-One adjustable stock gives you the ability to fit several members of the family.
Target shooters might want to consider a sweeping laminate stock from Boyds Gunstocks or Tactical Solutions. The sky is the limit with a laminate stock; you can get something that resembles grandpa’s hunting rifle or go for the racy thumbhole stock in neon pink. Look for a stock that has a sling stud if you plan on using a bipod. It’s a lot harder to mess up a stud install when it’s done at the factory.
Neither one of those styles excite you? Look at some unconventional stocks on the market. Pro-Mag’s Archangel Quick Takedown Stock is a cool option that turns a standard 10/22 into a takedown rifle for about the same cost as an aftermarket sock.
Archangel stock and standard 10/22 Carbine (top): $400 Magpul X-22 Backpacker Stock, Tacsol barrel and 10/22 Takedown (bottom): $825.
Barrels
Most stocks are set up for either a .920-inch bull barrel or the skinnier, shorter profile. Thicker bull barrels are generally stiffer and more accurate; the thinner profile, shorter barrel weighs a lot less typically than the thick bull barrel. The exception to that rule are barrels made from aluminum or carbon fiber, where a thin barrel liner is tensioned between the breech face and muzzle of the barrel. As a result, these tensioned barrels only weigh a fraction of a full-on steel barrel.
Tactical Solutions’ suppressor shroud allows the installation of a suppressor without adding a ton of length like an SBR but without the tax stamp.
If you intend on shooting the rifle suppressed, take a look at Tactical Solutions’ shrouded SBX barrel line. To keep the ATF goons happy, Tactical Solutions came up with a shroud they can add to the end of a short 10/22 barrel, bringing it to a 16.5-inch overall length. When you install your suppressor, you get the benefits of an SBR Ruger 10/22 without the hassle of a second tax stamp.
Optics
Fitting your 10/22 with an optic is entirely dependent on what you intend on doing with the rifle. Common sense applies; a high magnification scope is probably best if you want tiny little groups. If you’re going to be hunting with the rifle, look into a lightweight scope or red dot. Don’t get too cheap because it’s “just a .22;” good glass is always a wise investment.
Not only is the 10/22 rugged, it can also stay light with this example coming in at a mere 5.75 pounds as shown.
Just One More
There’s a world of possibilities out there when it comes to modifying the 10/22. The only hard part is deciding what direction to go with your build. If you can’t make up your mind and decide to build three, four or a dozen rifles, no one is going to judge you. In fact, the Gun Digest social media pages are kind of a support group for those of us who give in to the temptation; the only problem is we might encourage you to build “just one more.”
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the December 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Accurate. Versatile. Reliable. Advocates of the AR-15 will most likely cite one of these vital attributes as the reason why they pledge allegiance to the gun. Spot on, but dig a little deeper another reason platform’s popularity surfaces. Customization.
Modular in design, there isn’t a creek or crevasse that can’t be tinkered with to perfection. As Tom Wolf might have said, AR-15 is the regular Kandy-Kolored Tangerine-Flake Streamline Baby of the 21st Century. In short, every rifle is potentially a hunter, fighter, plinker, match gun, or what have you. Its fate lies in your hands. A veritable sea of performance AR-15 parts and accessories swamp the market, so a point in the right direction wouldn’t hurt. That’s what we’re attempting here.
The working assumption for this piece is you have an off-the-shelf rifle of some repute in your possession. Now you’re looking to kick it up a notch or two or even three. We’re veering away from involved upgrades—no barrel swaps—and home in on drop-in enhancement (for the most part). Economy is also at a premium in this litany, this means there are some top-shelf AR-15 parts and accessories left off. That said, this is your first foray into upgrading your gun. Worry about five-star, gold-standard parts once you gear up your 3-Gun career.
AR-15 Triggers
Splitting the bullseye straight down the middle, no single AR-15 part plays a larger role in doing this consistently than the trigger. Most rifles are factory outfitted with a relatively sub-standard fire control, the Mil-Spec trigger. It gets your gun to go bang but does little to enhance its accuracy. Of all AR-15 upgrades you consider this should be among the first
This piece on AR-15 triggers is a good place to nail down the finer points before you buy.
Single-Stage AR-15 Triggers
Timney AR-15 Competition Trigger
Timney’s Competition Trigger is a legitimate upgrade, giving you everything you want in a single-stage trigger: no pre-travel, terse reset and reliability pull after pull. Its drop-in design makes for no-brainer installation and you have three pull weights to pick from—2-2.5 pounds, 3-3.5 pounds and 4-4.5 pounds—and three bow styles—curved, straight and skeletonized. MSRP: $219 // timneytriggers.com
CMC Single-Stage
Spartan for sure, CMC Single-Stage triggers shine where it counts—performance. Especially nice, a very positive reset that picks up the pace once you master trigger control. It also ticks off all the other boxes you want in a single-stage trigger. You have the choice of a flat or curved bow and pull weights from 2.5 to 6.5 pounds. MSRP: $196 // cmctriggers.com
Geissele Single-Stage Precision
Predictable as the next minute and built to stand up to rough handling, Geissele’s Single-Stage Precision has everything to improve your rifle. The knock on it, you’re limited in pull-weight—3-3.5 pounds. Still, you have the option for a straight or curved bow. MSRP: $240 // geissele.com
Rise Armament RA-434 High-Performance Trigger
Don’t be fooled by its mid-tier price, the RA-434 delivers top-shelf performance. It boasts a very smooth pull, thanks to a self-lubricating nickel-boron coating on the internal parts. The bow architecture is nice, facilitating intuitive finger placement. MSRP: $179 // risearmament.com
Hiperfire AR-15-EDT
Best known for high-end competition triggers, Hiperfire’s Enhanced Duty Triggers cost a fraction of the price. Yet, they’re on par with the rest of the company’s catalog. Replaceable springs give you the option to tailor pull weight from 4.5 to 5.5 pounds. Powerful hammer spring ensures a solid strike each trigger pull. MSRP: $99 // hiperfire.com
Two-Stage AR-15 Triggers
LaRue Tactical MBT MBT stands for Meticulously Built Trigger, and that’s an accurate description. This two-stage, drop-in trigger from LaRue Tactical is made from S7 tool steel, and it brings a lot to the table for a very economical price. Each MBT comes with two trigger springs, one 4.5-pound and one 6-pound. Each purchase also comes with replacement hammer and trigger pins that do a better job of holding the trigger where it should be, just in case your lower isn’t playing nice with the MBT right out of the box. MSRP: $99 // larue.com
CMC AR-15 Two-Stage Trigger
Another of CMC’s drop-in marvels. A clear wall gives a good definition to the trigger, while its break is crisp and reset short. It’s quick when you need it to be. Available with breaks from 3 to 5 pounds and straight or curved bows. MSRP: $240 // cmctriggers.com
Timney AR-15 Targa
A very affordable Timney option, the Targa defines what you want out of a two-stage trigger. Available with pull weights from 2 to 4 pounds, there’s an option for nearly every shooter. And a more vertical curved bow facilitates proper finger placement. MSRP: $199 // timneytriggers.com
Geissele 2 Stage (G2S) Trigger
A cost-effective option, the G2S offers defined stages and overall performance improvement. Take up come in around 3 pounds, then breaks at a very terse 1.5 pounds. Short reset gets your next shot downrange fast. MSRP: $165 // geissele.com
AR-15 Handguard
Manufacturing costs decreasing over the years, a stock rifle is likely to have a better handguard or rail system then in the past. Even so, you might find the factory-install model isn’t exactly bringing the best out of your AR-15. Particularly if it isn’t free-floated or doesn’t have accessory attachment points.
We’ll touch on two versions of this vital AR-16 part: drop-in, which requires no gunsmithing, and free-float, which take a bit more know-how to install. The effort is worth it, free-float handguards are lightweight and, more importantly, maintain pristine barrel harmonics.
Check out Kevin Muramatsu’s rundown on installing a free-float handguard for the finer points of the process.
Get On Target With The AR:
Go Small With These 8 Economical AR Pistol Options
No frills, but the MOE gets the job done better than almost any other drop-in handguard on the market. It being Magpul there are M-Lok slots aplenty for accessory attachment. Reinforced and heat resistant, it’s a top-notch polymer option. MSRP: Starting at $37 // magpul.com
Bravo Company BCMGUNFIGHTER PKMR
An austere option, but one with plenty of functionality. Slim as a second to boot. A bit of a twist, BCM opted for KeyMod attachment points. They’re not quite as prevalent at M-Lok, but no less useful. Rugged, the polymer handguard is heat resistant and reinforced. MSRP: $40 // bravocompanyusa.com
Free-Float Handguard
Aero Precision AR15 Atlas R-One
Lightweight and relatively slim, Aero’s Atlas R-One Handguard gives you a full-length top rail and plenty of attachment points. Both M-Lok and Keymod options are available, so you aren’t confined. Available 7-, 9-, 12- and 15-inch lengths. MSRP: Starting at $150 // aeroprecisionusa.com
BCM MCMR If you feel that you need a name-brand rail like what the real operators use, BCM is always a solid option, and their MCMR series has plenty of sizes to choose from. Made of 6061-T6 aluminum alloy, these free-float rails are light, strong and provide ample M-LOK real estate. There’s an MCMR rail out there for just about every build too, since they’re available in 7-, 8-, 9-, 10-, 13- and 15-inch varieties. MSRP: Starting at $171.95 // bravocompanyusa.com
Brownell’s Wrenchmen Handguards
Brownell’s in-house brand is up to snuff and easy on the pocketbook. Plus, it comes with the company’s forever guarantee, which means they’ll take it back no matter what. Full-length top rail and M-Lok compatible, the aluminum handguard is ready to get decked out. Available lengths include 10.5, 12.6 and 15 inches. MSRP: Starting at $124 // brownells.com
Bolt Carrier Group
The beating heart of your AR-15, the bolt carrier group (BCG) is among the your rifle’s most critical components. There are three main BCG designs prevalent today:
AR-15 BCG: Deeper cut toward the rear of the bolt, lower overall mass. M-16 BCG: Shallower cut toward the rear of the bolt, more mass. Note, this will not make your AR-15 full-auto. Lightweight or Low-Mass BCG: Made of lightweight material, such as titanium, to increase the cycle-rate of an AR-15. Note, to function reliably it typically requires other upgrades.
Overall, the most commonly found BCGs are AR-15 and M-16. If well made, a gun will function reliably with either. However, shooters have tended toward M-16 BCGs in recent times, the argument being they are the more dependable of the two. Low-mass BCG are a bit out of a basic upgrades article—mainly favored by competitors. In turn, we’ll focus on AR-15 and M-16 versions.
Patrick Sweeney gets your mind right about this AR-15 part and how even the economy BCGs are built for the long haul.
Aero Precision Bolt Carrier Group
Fully Mil-Spec and HPT tested/MPI marked, Aero’s BCG is up to snuff. It comes complete with a phosphate coating and with or without Aero’s logo. MSRP: $150 // aeroprecisionusa.com
Daniel Defense M16 Bolt Carrier Group
Great name and manufacturing history, Daniel Defense doesn’t disappoint, delivering a rough-and-ready Mil-Spec BCG. You’ll pay more, but likely it will last as long as your rifle. MSRP: $217 // danieldefense.com
Spikes Tactical M16 5.56 Nickel Boron Bolt Carrier Group
Has all the Mil-Spec goodness, along with a nickel-boron finish. This makes it easier to clean and smoother operating. Plus, shiny! MSRP: $225 // spikestactical.com
Muzzle Brakes, Flash Hiders And Compensators
Unless you reside in a draconian state where muzzle devices are verboten, these handy little AR-15 parts give your gun a notable edge, depending on your ends.
Muzzle Brake: Work by using expanding gas to reduce felt recoil, not necessarily muzzle rise. Flash Hider: Reduces the muzzle flash caused by still-burning powder exiting the barrel behind the bullet. Compensator: Uses expanding gases to reduce muzzle rise, not necessarily recoil.
Stock guns usually come with an A2 flash hider, lovingly known as a “birdcage”. If all you want to do is cut down your rifle’s visual signature or keep your line of sight clear this is a proven option. Improving shot-to-shot accuracy, that’s the muzzle brake and compensators job. Forewarning, there’s a tradeoff—both increase your rifle’s report.
If you need to know the ins and outs of all three, here’s a deep dive into muzzle devices.
Seekins Precision ATC Muzzle Brake
Front-facing ports do a good job of eating up recoil. Plus, utilizing a knurled nut instead of a crush washer, installation and timing don’t get much easier than the ATC. MSRP: $89 // seekinsprecision.com
Strike Industries JCOMP
It’s a riff on the Type 89 compensator used on the Japanese Howa Type 89 rifle. A double-chamber design cuts recoil and muzzle rise considerably. Slots at the fore also do a number on muzzle flash. MSRP: $44 // strikeindustries.com/
Faxon MuzzLok Ported Flash Hider Faxon's Muzzlock makes it a snap to install and time. Once on, it cuts flash down considerably. Good price too. MSRP: $60 // faxonfirearms.com
AR-15 Charging Handle
One of the easiest AR-15 upgrades, the charging handle is also a fairly minor improvement. Though, there are certainly more rugged options than the factory-installed unit on your gun. And, if you’re a lefty, there are options more in tune to your southpaw ways.
Strike Industries Extended Latch Charging Handle
More latch to snatch, making your AR easier to manipulate. Plus, plenty of colors to choose from. MSPR: $44 // strikeindustries.com
Radian Raptor Ambidextrous Charging Handle
Standby AR-15 upgrade at this point, making gun ambidextrous—nice for lefties. Additionally, about as rugged charging handle as there is. It’s a quality AR-15 part. MSRP: $90 // radianweapons.com
BCM Gunfighter MOD 4
Simple design, the Gunfighter MOD 4 is intuitive and makes your rifle easier to manipulate. Available, if needed, with ambidextrous latches. MSRP: $54 // bravocompanymfg.com
AR-15 Slings
Divergent opinions aside—some love and others hate slinging AR-15s—it remains one of the most convenient ways to tote around your gun. We have an entire article dealing with AR-15 slings, how to attach them and use them to their utmost well worth reading. There are three main sling styles: one-point, two-point and three-point. Overall, two-point slings are the most popular presently given their simplicity and ability to facilitate quick movement, so we'll home in on those.
Magpul MS4 Dual QDM Sling
Outfitted with a quick detach system from the box, Magpul gives you a system you can configure to your preferences. Adaptable, the sling can also be used in a one-point configuration. Most importantly, boasts a rapid adjustment system, allowing for quick transitions to weak-side shots. MSRP: $65 // magpul.com
Blue Force Vickers Sling
Developed by industry legend Larry Vickers, the Vickers Sling still proves revolutionary. The two-point system is designed for rapid adaptations, particularly to weak-side shooting. At the same time, the rapid adjustment system can be cinched up for comfort and control when not engaged. MSRP: $55 // blueforcegear.com
The LaRue MBT, or Meticulously Built Trigger, offers a very crisp trigger pull in an easy to install package.
Gun writers can be trigger snobs, and competition shooters often are, too. When you combine the two, things can get … interesting. Listening to a small group of competition shooters talk about trigger pulls, weights, feel, tuning and the like can drive you to drink—if you aren’t involved in the discussion.
You can avoid the drama and simply invest in a LaRue MBT (Meticulously Built Trigger).
The two-stage trigger has a 2.5-pound take-up. The rest depends on which trigger spring you install. All of this machined and assembled by toolmakers out of tool steel.
The Easy Upgrade
MBT is a drop-in, two-stage trigger for your AR-15 that brings your black rifle of the 1960s into the 21st century. The MBT comes in a sealed can with a clear lid. There’s a hammer and trigger in there; the hammer has its own spring, and the trigger has two springs. You can choose between the regular spring or the heavier spring to determine your trigger pull weight. The regular spring delivers a 4.5-pound pull, and the heavy ups that to 6 pounds.
“Six pounds for a trigger?” I know what you’re thinking—too heavy. Except, the two-stage design makes it feel lighter. The take-up is 2.5 pounds. Then, once the trigger seems to stop, it takes another 2 pounds (with the light spring) to fire. For the heavy spring, that’s 4 pounds. So, take up the slack, and then it’s either 2 pounds or 4 pounds. Clean, crisp and not at all GI.
Each MBT is made from plates of S7 tool steel, and Mark LaRue puts toolmakers to work making them, with no time limit. Yep, they don’t have a quota or a daily target. They make as many MBTs as they can—that are exactly as they should be and that is that. This might mean you have to wait a short time. Be patient; it’s worth it.
The LaRue MBT trigger kit, complete with extra-heavy trigger spring and pin.
As for the drop-in aspect of it: The beauty of a two-stage design is that the timing and engagement surfaces of the sear are determined by the fit of the dual hooks on each of the trigger and the hammer. A two-stage design is therefore a lot more resistant to the vagaries of pin location in your lower.
Now, nothing’s perfect, and it’s entirely possible that your MBT dropped into a given lower won’t work right. If that’s the case, the fault lies with the lower and not LaRue.
And just to make things even better, it ships with a pair of hammer and trigger pins. “Oh, but I already have those.” Yep, and yours are the two-groove design that can cause a problem if you slip up in assembly. The LaRue pins have three grooves, so you have the chance of both hammer spring legs catching into a groove and keeping the trigger pin in place. I really don’t know why that minor detail wasn’t corrected by Colt, or the government, back in about 1975. Certainly, for the A2 upgrades in the 1980s. But they didn’t. So, LaRue takes care of that for you.
And all this goodness costs you $99. Yes, 99 bucks for a clean, crisp, drop-in trigger pull for your AR-15. You’ll wonder why you put up with USGI trigger pulls for as long as you did.
For more on LaRue Tactical, please visit LaRue.com.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the November 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
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