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Building Military Replicas: The M16A1 Clone And Beyond

By
Josh Wayner
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0

Whether you’re after an M16A1 clone or another iconic military firearm replica, there are a few different ways to go about it.

The early years of the Vietnam War saw the AR-15 as the Colt M16, a supposedly space-age rifle that rejected notions of wood and blued steel, and instead went for plastics and aluminum. It was the image of the new dawn, where Americans were graduating into a degree of combat lethality the likes of which had never been seen.

Unfortunately, this wasn’t the case in the field, and the use of the M16 in combat proved to be a faith-shaking experience. Where the American in WWII had a dependable, powerful and accurate rifle, the soldiers in Vietnam were left with rifles that fit none of those criteria.

The M16 eventually became a mature system after much trial and error. It’s the progenitor of the most effective and common rifles in use today, most of which only bear a passing resemblance to the common M16A1. Because of this constant remodeling, there are many variants of the design that appeal to different niches of collectors and shooters. There’s also a flourishing market for modern military replicas.

M16A1-clone-feature

Brownells and the Retro Revival

Brownells surprised the industry when it, a well-known supplier of parts and tools, began to market a brand of retro-style AR parts under their own brand. Coming to the table with replicas of never-before-seen AR models and close to 1:1 copies of long decommissioned military weapons was risky, but it panned out instantly.

The product line did not, however, start out with today’s result in mind.

“We started out in what was essentially an empty market for the retro and replica parts,” says Paul Levy, director of product management at Brownells. “There just wasn’t much out there. We license Nodak Spud’s forgings to our specs, both upper and lowers. We spent lots of time procuring original furniture to make copies, and then we moved to finding authentic barrels with particular sight bases and twist rates. At one point we had all the parts sourced, and we decided, ‘Why not build complete rifles?’”

The guns they began producing made a splash, as many newer shooters had never seen or had access to original-style Vietnam-era AR rifles. Today’s shooters grew up with the AR, but not the AR of the previous generation. Carry handles, iron sights and triangle handguards have all vanished on modern variants. The excitement spread, enthusiasm grew—along with demand for more variants.

M16A1-clone-handguard
The old “triangle” handguards are rare in original form these days. This particular set dates to circa 1968 to 1971 and was unissued.

“The older guns reached a value point, probably $1,500, where there was not a great value to buying one,” Levy added. “The market for original Colt parts was dry and costly, and we were pleased to have great engagement from the AR-15 community when we brought these retro products back to the market.

Most of the products in the Retro line are about $1,000 to $1,400. The fact that you can get a factory-new rifle that’s as close to an exact copy of the originals is incredible. Imagine being able to buy a factory new M1 Garand for that price. Compared to what’s out there, the Retro replicas are an extraordinary deal and an example of living history that’ll help preserve the culture for a new generation.

“You can own C&R eligible AR-15 rifles that are 50-plus-years old,” said Levy. “The AR design is not new, and it’s closer in age the M1 Garand than people know. Only 20 years separates them [the Garand being finalized in 1936 and the AR-15 in 1956]. The original guns were so light and handy, and they were made as a system. Our modern versions are adapted and changed, and many people are surprised at how light and soft-shooting the 20-inch M16 is. It’s probably the most elegant of the AR family and really showed that Stoner knew what he was doing when he came up with the rifle.”

M16A1-clone-stock
The M16 stock here was a used military issue. It bears faint markings, but nothing decipherable. A complete set of M16A1 furniture is expensive—sometimes as much as $500 for a set.

Brownells does sell separate receivers, uppers and many parts and furniture that are comparable with modern AR rifles. You could piece out your own build, or use a retro receiver as the basis of a modern build for added flair. The company has introduced a copy of the original 4X carry handle scope used in Vietnam was well. While not as flashy as an ACOG, it does add some capability and cool factor to your own retro build.

Brownells is producing the BRN-16A1, XBRN-16E1 and XBRN-177 as complete rifles. The other rifles in their Retro lineup are no longer going to be offered as complete guns, but the parts will remain. In addition to the true Retro line, Brownells has also offered modern parts, such as the HK-style BRN-4 should you wish to start a modern USMC build.

Replica Vs. Reproduction

With companies like Brownells producing replicas outright, there has been some discussion as to what constitutes a replica and how many parts are necessary to make something more “original.” What, then, counts as a replica and what counts as a reproduction?

Colt-1911-M45A1
The Colt M45A1 1911 is an example of an as-issued item that’s commercially available. The first versions were different, but the later examples came off the Colt production line. While it didn’t serve officially for long, the M45A1 is highly sought after and is the final variant of a long line of 1911 M45 pistols that never stopped serving after the M9 was adopted in 1985. These variants are often painstakingly copied by 1911 enthusiasts. The SureFire X30U-A is the correct issue light, as are the Wilson Combat metal bottom magazines.

A replica, at least to me, is something that cosmetically, but not necessarily functionally, is as close to identical to the original as possible. The AR-15s out there today that look like the M16A1 are, in my mind a replica—not a reproduction. The military versions made by Colt in the 1960s were fully automatic and had different metal finishes and even variances in parts size and pin diameter over what’s offered commercially today. The Colt SP1 commercial guns are semi-auto variants of the company’s M16, but even those are something of a stand-alone design in that they’re not a direct part-for-part copy of the military rifle.

All the AR rifles today are, despite what I hear from collectors and hobbies circles, in-spirit replicas. I know people who strive for extreme detail in their replicas, but at the end of the day they’re all simply cosmetic look-alikes, not the real deal.

A reproduction gun is something that’s essentially a complete copy of the parts in function and appearance. I’ve seen reproduction Single Action Army revolvers that were so close to an actual Colt that I would’ve put money down that they were. Likewise, I’ve been fooled by a modern M1 Garand copy more than once. This is hard to do with the AR rifle, but not impossible.

Why do people try to build out replicas in the first place? Well, people feel a connection to history. I know a decent number of shooters who won’t touch an Uberti, despite them being great guns and often indistinguishable from a period piece. Other people don’t care about originality, figuring that even a 1970s Colt SAA is technically not the same as one from the 1870s, so they don’t feel the need to pay extra for one.

The M16A1 Clone

The M16A1 clone in this article is a very close in-spirit replica that’s, of course, semi-auto only. The external appearance is extremely accurate to what was issued in the late 1960s and early 1970s. The upper is a Brownells retro line product, complete with a period-correct 1:12 rifling twist. It has a modern bolt carrier group, but this isn’t discernible from the exterior. The lower is also a Brownells Retro model, but it’s stocked with the latest Geissele Automatics parts.

M16A1-lower-receiver
The Brownells replica lower is cosmetically correct as far as exterior features, but the markings are obviously different. Note that the magazine, while also close to the original, is dated to 5/19.

To make it feel more authentic, I tracked down and replaced the Brownells furniture with real M16A1 parts. The handguard, stock and grip are all correct and made, as far as I can tell, in about 1970. The sling is also original but was a gift from a Vietnam vet and was one he actually had in-country during his tour. These parts lend a degree of gravity to the rifle and it, while a new build with match-grade parts, has a feel so close to the original that it has turned heads at the range—and even elicited a few tear-filled memories.

M16A1-clone-brownells
What’s a more authentic replica? This M16A1 clone has original parts but is less authentic overall as compared to the USASOC buildout.

I decided to start a different USASOC URGI build and acquired parts that are quite close. The upper is a real-deal Geissele product that’s as close to the uppers in use today in combat as possible. It’s a near-clone and is functionally identical, but not exactly the same in the origin of some of the parts. It uses the same handguard and rare four-prong SureFire flash hider, which is pinned and welded to make it a proper legal length. The military version is not, as far as I have researched, permanently pinned. The upper carries all the appropriate markings and NSN numbers. It even came with a coveted Velcro patch you can only get with that upper. The patch alone sells for $100 to a dedicated collector.

USASOC-Build
This USASOC build has as close to the appropriate upper and suppressor as you can get from the manufacturer.

This rifle has a BRN-4 HK-style lower stocked again with Geissele parts. It has an SSA-X Government Trigger, which was a contract overrun. This cosmetically resembles the USMC M27 IAR, but it’s not functionally the same in really any way. In addition, the upper has similar sights, a similar light (Cloud Defensive instead of SureFire), and a correct model SureFire suppressor. The carbine also has a Geissele optics mount that’s correctly issued, but not the issue optic, though it’s functionally similar.

USASOC-build-2
The rifle here borrows from both the USMC M27 and the USASOC carbine. This is an example of the best of both worlds for function and cosmetics, but it’d be unacceptable for someone trying to be as real as possible.

How Close is Close Enough?

When it comes to replicas, reproductions and direct copies or originals, all that matters is that you get what you want out of it. I’ve owned authentic guns from history and owned copies. I believe that, for some people, having the real thing matters. For others, having something that does the same thing without the guilt of potential damage to a historical example is worth more.

USASOC-build-3
The author uses this rifle for rigorous competition. The Triad Tactical forend wrap is functional, as is the Cloud Defensive light. Are they correct? Not necessarily, but neither takes away from the spirit of the URGI upper.

Still, others just want something that they feel connected to, even if it’s a replica of a gun from the movies or fantasy. Replicas can be great as “close enough,” and for many guns like the AR-15 and its military cousins, close enough is all you really get.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Editor’s Note: Brownells no longer offers complete retro rifles but individual parts are still available.

More On Retro ARs:

3D Printed Suppressor Tools

By
Patrick Sweeney
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Niche tools for items like silencers can often be out of stock right when you need them, but 3D printed suppressor tools can fill the gap.

Ever need a tool, only to find out there seems not be any for that specific task? Or the manufacturer is temporarily out? Welcome to the club. When it comes to suppressors, and disassembly of the same, you’re pretty much locked in. If you buy the Whiz-Bang suppressor, then the W-B Co. LLC is likely the only company that makes the tools to take them apart.

Well, almost.

Warren Innovative Technologies makes 3D printed suppressor tools to fit any suppressor. No, really. By my count, 33 different spanners, sockets, splined or cap-fitting tools. These are all made from injection-mold grade ABS, but 3D printed. Where there are pins needed, the pins are held in place during the printing process, so they’re firmly held by the finished product.

I know what some of you are thinking: ABS? How is that going to hold up to my leverage with a breaker bar?” My first thought is: If you need a breaker bar to get your suppressor apart, you’ve done something wrong already. My second thought is: Warren will replace busted tools, so you’ll have some thinking to do while the box wends its way to you.

After all, suppressors are supposed to be hand-tight. Yes, the mounts should be torqued on to a certain level, one that ABS might not withstand, but we already have perfectly good steel wrenches for that. If you want more than hand-tight, Warren makes a wrench handle/spanner to do that.

3D-printed-suppressor-tools-feature
Warren Tech 3D printed suppressor tools are light, non-marring, inexpensive … and you can actually get them when you need them.

The ABS Advantage

The two big advantages of the ABS printed tools are that they’re unlikely to mar your suppressor, and they’re readily fabricated. The ABS-M30 won’t leave scars on your aluminum tubes. By being readily fabricated (once all the engineering, R&D, etc. has been done, of course), Warren can make them when you need them. If they were made from forged aluminum, machined to fit, you’d have to wait until the next batch of that suppressor was made. If not a commonly owned one, that wait might be a while. This way, everything is either in-stock or made so quickly it might as well have been.

Oh, and do you have the spring-loaded workroom strips, the ones used to click your other tools into? Well, the Warren tools click into those. For those of you who aren’t one to leave tools behind when tired, there’s also a dedicated hole to put a loop of 550 cord (aka “dummy cord”) on it, so you can keep track of your tools.

3D-printed-suppressor-tools-Warren-TiRant
Here’s a TiRant wrench and the Warren Tech spanner that makes it easier to use.

Also, once the printing software has been generated for each tool, it was easy as pie for Warren to integrate the suppressor type name into the instructions. So, each one is clearly marked as to what it fits.

Now, if you only own one suppressor, or own several, but all from the same maker, this might not be needed. But what do you do when your .22 rimfire, your .223 and your .308 are each from a different maker? Or, you lose your one-and-only tool, and the suppressor maker is in-between production runs of that tool?

Why, you just track down Warren Innovative Technologies (SuppressorTools.com) and order up what you need.

As an example, the first tool I clicked on proves the point. It’s a socket tool to tighten or loosen an AAC three-prong mount. AAC is gone, and they aren’t around to make a tool for you.

But Warren is.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the 2021 Buyer's Guide special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

More Suppressor Info:

The 80 Percent Lower Jig Buyer’s Guide

By
Sam Hoober
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You can’t finish your 80 percent build without an 80 percent lower jig to show you where to cut.

We’ve already discussed 80 percent lower receivers, the unfinished and unserialized component that’s at the heart of “ghost gun” builds. An integral step in finishing lowers like these is cutting away the remaining material, and to do that you’ll need an 80 percent lower jig.

We’ll cover what jigs are, how they’re used and what other tools you’ll likely need to complete a build. We’ll also take a look at five great jigs for completing common 80 percent builds.

What Is An 80 Percent Lower Jig?

Taylor-Guitar-Jig
A jig being used in the construction of an acoustic guitar. Photo: wikipedia.com.

When speaking about jigs in general, they are tools that control the movement of parts and/or other pieces of tooling. It can hold something in place like a vise, or it can guide a particular tool to complete a particular action.

When it comes to 80 percent lower jigs, however, what we’re more or less talking about is called a drill jig. Its primary function is to hold a part in place so that a hole can be drilled in the correct location.

In other words, it’s a drilling template. While some 80 percent lower jigs are made for use with a router with an end mill bit, most are made for use with a hand drill or drill press. This is partly why the process is so accessible to even casual home builders with rudimentary setups.

Does The ATF Regulate Jigs?

As you might be aware, the ATF’s recently-enacted Final Rule 2021R-05F attempted to increase the difficulty of building a firearm at home by amending its definitions of frames and receivers. With this change, the ATF considers a “readily completed” kit to be no different than a fully manufactured lower, therefore requiring serialization and a background check.

With the clear intention of this rule change being to crack down on “buy, build, shoot” kits, does this mean that 80 percent jigs and lowers must now be bought separately?

Polymer80-Buy-Build-Shoot-Kit
An old Polymer80 “Buy, Build, Shoot” kit that included a jig with an unserialized frame.

The truth is that at the time of this writing, nobody is perfectly sure. It appears that may be the case, but the situation is still currently fluid.

The ATF has stated that they may rule on kits that include tooling and a receiver blank on a case-by-case basis. While they haven’t said that the tooling associated with completing receiver blanks will require a background check or serialization, they did state that they may “consider any associated templates, jigs, molds, equipment, tools” as part of their purview. 

What does that mean?

It means that a kit that includes jigs and tooling with a clearly recognizable receiver is considered a receiver rather than a blank, meaning serialization and a background check is required. 

Jigs and tools themselves aren't considered receiver components and can be purchased separately, but the ATF has left themselves the option to consider jigs and tooling as components for completing a receiver.

In short, following this rule change, your best bet will be to simply buy the receiver blank and 80 percent lower jig separately for the time being.

What Do I Need To Complete An 80 Percent Lower Besides A Jig?

Exactly which tools you will need is dependent on the specific lower receiver blank you intend on completing. This means that you need to check the build list yourself!

If tools aren't included on the list, some must-haves include an electric drill and a set of drill bits. Imperial/English is usually good, but some kits may require metric. It's also a good idea to have a Dremel tool and attachments for polishing, along with a few basic files such as a rat file and possibly a half-mill bastard file. A set of digital calipers is also recommended.

Some jigs are designed to be used with a router with an end mill bit. If you have a router, this may be a good option to consider because it makes the milling a little more precise than when done with a drill or drill press.

Speaking of drills, a drill press will be better than a hand drill in every way. It will be easier, faster and safer, and the results will be cleaner too. If you don’t already have a drill press, it would probably be wise to buy one before embarking on an 80 percent build. Perfectly acceptable models for this task are sold for less than $100.

80-percent-lower-cowboy-mode
Don't worry about getting a drill press if this lower looks OK to you. Photo: AR15.com.

Glock/poly-striker pistol frames typically only require the jig and a few drill bits. Sometimes they're included, sometimes not. These are the easiest to complete and usually the cheapest of all 80 percent builds.

For AR-15 lower receivers, you'll need the jig and drill bits along with either a drill press or possibly a router with an end mill bit.

1911 lowers will require a drilling jig and a cutting jig for cutting the frame rails, along with drill bits. You'll need additional tools for fitting parts as well.

Again, the above-mentioned tools are just a starting point. Exactly what you will need depends on what receiver/blank you select and what jig you buy to complete it.

So, with that said…what are some top jigs to buy?

The 5 Best 80 Percent Lower Jigs

Broken Armory AR-15 Lower Receiver Jig

Broken-Armory-80-Percent-Lower-Jig

The AR-15 Lower Receiver Jig from Broken Armory is a high-quality drilling jig for completing AR-15 lowers. Their drilling jig design allows you to swap out the AR-15 top plates for their 308 top plates if you want to complete a .308/AR-10-style build at another time.

The kit includes top plates and side plates, CNC machined from anodized aluminum with hardened drill bushings. You get drilling depth charts, and all plates are marked with the correct drill bit size. All you need to supply is the drill bits and a drill press.

MSRP: $179 // BrokenArmory.com

Polymer80 Build Kits

Polymer80-Jig

Polymer80 is the company that started it all when it comes to 80 percent pistol kits, and they've found a way to stay alive despite the ATF's ruling. While not available yet, the company plans to offer what is in essence the same build kit as before only now with serialized frames. This will require the whole kit to be transferred through an FFL like a completed firearm, but it will include all the necessary parts and jigs.

You can read their statement on 2021R-05F here. The kit will include the frame, the Polymer80 jig, drill bits, the frame rails and instructions on how to complete the build. You'll have to supply lower parts and a drill. A vise would be wise to have as well.

Ideal? Maybe not, but the company’s frames are still excellent.

MSRP: TBD // Polymer80.com

80% Arms Universal Drill Press 80 Percent AR-15 Jig

80-Lower-80-Percent-Lower-Jig

Simple and budget-friendly, the Universal Drill Press jig from 80-Lower only requires a drill press and some drill bits to complete an 80 percent AR-15 lower. It's made of anodized aluminum and has movable side and top plates that serve as your drilling guides.

However, it comes with some caveats. It's only compatible with mil-spec AR-15 lowers, so ambi builds, AR-9 and .308 builds are not feasible with it. It's not recommended for the total novice, so you will need to do your homework on the cuts and drill bits needed. The universal model is very affordable, but the company also offers the Easy Jig for beginners at a much higher price.

MSRP: $99.99 // 80PercentArms.com

Stealth Arms 1911 Phantom Jig

StealthArms-1911-Jig

The Stealth Arms 1911 Phantom Jig is a drilling and cutting jig, which gives you the template for drilling the hammer and sear pin holes, cutting the frame rails and cutting the barrel seat. The kit includes two carbide cutters, one for cutting the frame rails and one for the barrel seat.

You only need to have a vise and a drill press—you could use a handheld, but a press is strongly recommended—and an 80 percent 1911 frame. The jig is designed for cutting an aluminum frame, as steel usually requires multiple cutters for each operation. The best practice is to use an aluminum frame cut for a ramped barrel and to use a ramped barrel on the build.

MSRP: $174 // StealthArms.net

Modulus Arms Universal 80 Percent Lower Router Jig Extreme

Modulus-Arms-80-Percent-Lower-Jig

This universal kit works with any AR-related lower, including AR-15, AR-9/45, DPMS-308 and AR-10 style 80 percent lowers. It's designed to be used with a router to perform the milling, with a proprietary one-piece guide pin design to keep the end mill from touching the jig.

Side plates are included as are depth gauges. Besides the jig (and a lower) and drill, you'll also need a router, a Router Jig Extreme Speed mill for your make and model of router and the appropriate drill bits. You may also, depending on the router you have, need a full-size router plate.

This model is on the pricier side, but the versatility it offers makes it worth it for those who plan on building a wide variety of ARs.

MSRP: $349.99 // ModulusArms.com

More DIY Stuff:

First Look: Savage Arms Impulse Mountain Hunter

By
Adam Borisenko
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1

Savage Arms has just expanded its straight-pull Impulse lineup with the addition of the backcountry-ready Impulse Mountain Hunter.

Straight-pull bolt-action rifles have never exactly been popular in the U.S., so Savage was taking a bit of a risk when the company launched the original Impulse in 2021. Lucky for them, the gamble paid off, as the Impulse has become quite popular since its introduction. However, the biggest complaint that early adopters had was the rifles’ weight. Hunters wanted a lighter option that was more suitable for long treks, rough backcountry and mountain hunting. Savage’s answer is the freshly announced Impulse Mountain Hunter.

Savage-Impulse-Mountain-Hunter-feature

The new Impulse Mountain Hunter is available in nine different chamberings. That includes .308 Winchester, 28 Nosler, .30-06 Springfield, .300 Win. Mag., .300 WSM, 6.5 Creedmoor and 6.5 PRC. All models have either a 22- or 24-inch barrel depending on the caliber. Other features shared across the Mountain Hunter line include an adjustable AccuTrigger, an ambidextrous and multi-positional bolt handle and a gray AccuStock with adjustable length-of-pull and comb height. All nine versions also feature Proof Research carbon fiber-wrapped barrels with threaded muzzles and muzzle brakes.

Savage-Impulse-MH-bolt

The biggest improvement found on the Impulse Mountain Hunter series is the weight, with changes like the carbon fiber-wrapped barrel helping to dramatically decrease it without compromising accuracy. Of the existing Impulse models, the lightest was the Impulse Hog Hunter at about 8.4 pounds, and many others weighed close to 9 pounds or more. The new lightweight Mountain Hunter models weigh 7.3 pounds on average, making them much more viable for hunts that entail a lot of trekking.

Savage-MH-carbon-fiber-barrel

Beth Shimanski, Director of Marketing at Savage Arms, said this about the new rifles:

At Savage, we not only value the input of our customers, but we also listen to it. Since 2021 when Savage launched the first Impulse variant, the number one request we’ve received is for a lightweight version ideal for hunting in the mountains … With extreme accuracy and breakthrough technology, the Mountain Hunter is light, sharp, and encompasses all that the Impulse family represents, thus giving our customers what they wanted.

Regardless of the model chosen, all Savage Impulse Mountain Hunters have an MSRP of $2,437. At the time of writing, all calibers are available on Savage’s website except for the 7mm Remington and .270 Winchester versions which will presumably come later.

For more information, please visit savagearms.com.

Take Aim At Rifles:

The Stun Gun Buyer’s Guide: Watt Are They Good For?

By
Sam Hoober
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0

Frankly, the stun gun isn’t an ideal self-defense weapon, but some people may still benefit from carrying one.

Stun guns can, on their face, be effective…but they are one of the least-preferred self-defense tools for good reason.

We’ll go over what those reasons are, and cover some justifications for why one still may choose to carry one and five top stun gun models to consider for those who do.

Stun Guns Vs. Tasers

While the terms are often used to refer to each other, stun guns and tasers are not one and the same. Firstly, while the word taser is now an accepted colloquialism for any similar device, the name is derived from the original manufacturer TASER International and is still a trademarked term by the current manufacturer Axon.

Stun-gun-feature

The more important distinction between stun guns and Tasers is how they function. While stun guns impart their electric current to their target via direct contact, Taser devices instead deliver their current at range through two small, wired darts. The darts may be fired at distances up to 15 or 34 feet depending on the model, and if both electrodes make good contact with their target, the circuit will be completed and the subject will be shocked.

Regardless of the style of device that provided it, electric shocks hurt. The only trick is reliably delivering the charge.

Stun guns, and for that matter Tasers, are legal in most states, but there are some restrictions. For example, Wisconsin requires a permit to carry one, Hawaii prohibits carrying them at all and several individual counties and cities have enacted stun gun bans…though legal challenges to them usually prove successful.

Types Of Stun Guns

Generally speaking, stun guns can be broken down into two categories: batons and compacts.

Batons are too large to conceal and deliver electric shock either by electrodes at the end of the device (like a cattle prod) or by wired contact strips, pads or rings along the outside of the shaft.

Stun-Gun-cane2
A baton-type stun gun disguised as a cane. Photo: Wikipedia.

Compact stun guns are handheld, with two electrodes at one end of the device. When you activate the device, the current jumps between them, completing the circuit. They can be made to resemble many different objects such as phones, vapes or flashlights, but some are the classic stun gun design that you probably picture in your head.

stun-gun-phone
A stun gun disguised as a cell phone. Photo: Wikipedia.

Regardless, all stun guns fundamentally work the same way. They create a current which can be applied directly to an attacker.

Why You're Better Off With Pepper Spray

In terms of less-lethal self-defense tools, the default is and should be pepper spray. It has the best track record (good pepper spray works very well when correctly deployed), and it's also cheap and easy to conceal and carry.

Taser devices have a high failure rate in the field (upwards of 50 percent according to some studies) and good ones are usually not cheap.

One major drawback is that stun guns are less than ideal for self-defense because they require the user to maintain direct physical contact with the threat long enough for them to be successfully incapacitated or dissuaded.

That may not be possible, depending on the exact fight you get into. If they're on top of you (almost all fights eventually go to the ground) it's most likely only going to delay harm rather than end the engagement. Heavy clothing can interfere with getting the necessary contact to deliver an electric shock as well.

Taser-electrode-darts
The wired electrode from a Taser attempting to penetrate a layer of clothing, results may vary. Photo: Wikipedia.

Secondly, unless you're zapping someone in the eyeballs…you're only affecting a muscle group for a second or two. That may not be enough to stop a fight when it comes to some attackers, and OC spray is known to do so much more reliably.

Finally, stun guns rarely put out enough amperage to produce serious-enough muscle spasms to be unfailingly effective. If they did, they'd likely be treated the same as firearms under the law.

To help better understand that, consider the classic analogy that compares voltage to water pressure but amperage to water volume or flow rate. An ounce of water at incredible pressure is still only an ounce of water, but four gallons per minute is a lot of water to move regardless of the pressure. 

This is why humans can withstand thousands and thousands of volts with nearly no effect. It's the amperage that does the damage.

Humans generally need to be subjected to 5 to 10 milliamps to even register pain. Inducing mild muscular reactions can require 10mA to 30mA. Defibrillators, by contrast, typically have an output of around 45mA or more.

The batteries aren't the problem. AA batteries have around 2,800mAH (milliamp hours; 1 milliamp per hour for 2,800 hours) of charge, and a 3.7-volt 18650 battery has about 3,400mAH.

To be a reliable fight stopper, you'd need to deliver enough amperage to guarantee muscle seizure, which can require anywhere from 50mA to 150mA…but the problem there is that even 100mA (0.1 amp) can be fatal.

So, an inherent flaw in stun guns is that they can't be made powerful enough to be reliably effective while remaining a non-lethal tool. An Axon-brand X26 TASER (a common model issued to police) has an output of 2.1mA. 

With so many downsides, you may be starting to gather that stun guns are a limited tool. But is there a possible niche?

When Would A Stun Gun Be Practical?

On paper, the stun gun is not an entirely useless defensive tool. Providing that yours has sufficient enough amperage (with fresh batteries) to actually induce not only pain but mild muscular contraction, a stun gun could (in theory) be an effective contact weapon.

Knives are not less-lethal tools. Bludgeons of any kind such as batons or saps are not either…and any “pressure point” pokey thing is unlikely to do much in a real fight.

In other words, where a stun gun could be tenable is in a fight or attack where you are in contact with your assailant. Pepper spray requires distance—at arms' length, it's possible to spray yourself as much as your opponent.

Stun-gun-pain
This soldier's face demonstrates that when energy weapons work, they work. Photo: Wikipedia.

Since an obvious concern for women, the elderly and the physically disabled is winding up on the ground under an assailant, a stun gun gives you a weapon that isn't potentially lethal (response to force must be proportional, after all) but can potentially distract or dissuade someone enough to flee.

It shouldn't be your Plan A, but it could still be a potentially useful tool to have as a backup, especially for those who want a less-lethal option but lack the physical constitution to fight off an attacker.

At that, here are some of the best stun gun models on the market that may actually be worth considering.

Top 5 Stun Gun Options:

The Runt Stun Gun

runt-stun-gun

The Runt has been on the market for some time, and it has some features that indicate it may be one of the few stun guns that will actually work. It's a compact unit, with an output of 4.5mA on a full battery. The onboard battery pack is rechargeable. You unlock the charge prongs and plug them directly into a wall socket.

The Runt has a rubber housing, and is 4.25 inches long, 1.63 inches wide and 1-inch thick, and at less than 1.5 ounces can be easily carried in a pocket or worn in the included belt holster. They cost less than $20.

TASER Professional

Taser-7-CQ

If you're seriously contemplating an electrical weapon…why mess around? Axon's TASER brand is now selling to the public, and their Professional Series, including the X2 and TASER 7 CQ which are the same units sold to police.

The output is just under 4mA, and the X2 and 7 CQ models have a warning arc that could be used at contact distance…or you can fire the cartridges.

However, a professional grade comes with professional pricing. The X1 is the cheapest…at $999. The X2 is $1,499, and the TASER 7 CQ is $1,599.

SABRE Red Self-Defense Kit

Sabre-Red-Kit

The SABRE Red Self-Defense Kit includes pepper spray and the SABRE S-1009 stun gun, which emits 1.250 micro coulombs per burst, enough to likely induce pain compliance. 

Why this kit? Because you can get the stun gun and SABRE Red spray for about $25. That way, you get some good OC spray out of the deal too.

Guard Dog Katana Stun Gun Flashlight

Guard-Dog-Katana-Stun-Gun

The Guard Dog Katana is a flashlight stun gun. It has a strike bezel on the bulb housing with concealed electrodes; when you activate it, they create an arc.

It has a rechargeable battery, an output of 420 lumens and an aluminum housing with a glass breaker tail cap.

Why this flashlight stun gun? It's about the same size as most other tactical flashlights, so it's slim enough to carry every day. If the electric shock doesn't work, it's also a good impact weapon. If nothing else, you’ll at least have a flashlight.

Vipertek VTS 989

Vipertek-Stun-Gun

The Vipertek VTS 989 has been on the market for quite some time and has a very similar design to the Runt. Its output is over 1 microcoulomb, and it includes an LED light that activates with the eclectic current.

The onboard battery is rechargeable, and it comes with a wrist strap and belt holster. It's rather large for pocket carry at 6.5 inches long, 2 inches wide and 1-inch thick, but should still fit most pockets. These also typically sell for less than $25.

More Self-Defense Info:

Daniel Defense Announces Daniel SoundGuard Suppressor Line

By
Adam Borisenko
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Daniel Defense has just announced the Daniel SoundGuard suppressor line, featuring three models of rugged, hard-use rifle cans.

Daniel Defense has just partnered with KGM Technologies to release the Daniel SoundGuard suppressor line. The new series is being launched originally with three models, the SG-556, SG-30 and the SG-30Ti. The new rifle cans were designed with mitigating backpressure in mind and are being marketed as rugged, reliable and capable of withstanding abuse.

Daniel-Soundguard-feature
SG-556, SG-30 and SG-30Ti (left to right).

As the suppressors’ names suggest, the SG-556 is a dedicated 5.56/.223 can, the SG-30 is a .30-caliber can and is rated for everything between .223 and .300 PRC, and the SG-30Ti is rated for the same but is constructed out of titanium instead. All three models feature a 1.75-inch tube diameter, but the titanium model is .75-inches longer than the two 7-inch steel models. While longer, the titanium Daniel SoundGuard is much lighter as well, weighing about 7 ounces less than its steel counterparts.  Daniel Defense claims that the KGM technology found inside each suppressor does an impressive job of directing gasses forward and reducing the flash signature to near zero, all while having a minimal effect on accuracy or impact shift.

Daniel-Defense-AR-15

Marty Daniel, President and CEO of Daniel Defense, said this about the new Daniel SoundGuard suppressors:

Through years of working with multiple military/law enforcement agencies – as well as consumers – our team pinpointed specific criteria for this family of suppressors…In addition to the obvious, sound reduction, limiting the amount of toxic gasses, reducing muzzle flash and accuracy were all critical.

Daniel-SoundGuard-mount

All three models will ship with direct thread mounts for the most common thread pitches for their respective caliber (1/2×28 for the SG-556 and 5/8×24 for the .30-caliber models), but they will be compatible with quick-detach systems like Keymo and ASR as well. The SG-556 and SG-30 share an MSRP of $750 while the SG-30Ti has an MSRP of $1,000.

For more information, please visit danieldefense.com.

More On Suppressors:

Reloading On A Component Crunch Diet

By
Philip Massaro
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How do you survive when reloading components are running low? The answer is a diet of consuming leftovers.

Well, here we are again. As if the lack of factory-loaded ammunition wasn’t enough of a challenge to shooters, reloading components are becoming increasingly scarce, and costs are increasing daily. Even the reloading gear is a scarcity in some cases, with folks having issues getting presses, dies and more.

To put some rumors to rest, the drought is a result of a few factors, though none are intentional on the behalf of the producers. First, we have nearly 8 million new shooters, all of which who need some amount of ammunition to feed those new firearms. Second, this COVID-19 pandemic has forced manufacturers to adopt different work environments; social distancing requirements have certainly led to a reduction in output in several businesses. Third, the majority of the components produced are allocated to loaded ammunition, which makes sense, as that’s where the demand is greatest.

Component-Crunch-feature
The saddest sight: empty component containers, with no replacements in sight. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

With the fate of Remington only recently decided, one of the four producers of primers has ceased production. While Vista Outdoor has acquired Remington Ammunition and their component production as well, that means that we are temporarily down one primer producer. So, as if things weren’t tight enough, we reloaders are left with the “leftovers,” if you will.

There’s also the fact that some folks are undoubtedly hoarding both ammo and components. I’m not here to pass judgment on anyone, nor am I about to suggest that there should be any sort of limit on the amount of ammo, components or firearms anyone should be able to own, but the truth is the truth. If you’re sitting on 10,000 primers, the problems outlined here might not pertain to you—but if you’re new to reloading or your supplies are low, they’re a reality.

Looking at the situation, we reloaders are now forced to make do with what we have. This could easily translate into changing brand of primer, or using a magnum primer where a standard primer was once employed. While the transition is possible in some situations and not a wise move in others, there are issues involved with switching primers. The same can be said for switching brands or type of cases, as the volumes of varying cases can be different enough to affect the pressures generated.

Switching Cases

When I was a relatively new reloader, a friend gifted me about 50 once-fired nickel-plated Remington cases for my new-to-me .300 Winchester Magnum. I’d developed a handload using a 180-grain Sierra GameKing boat-tail over IMR 4350, in Frontier (Hornady) cases. Eager to use those nickel cases, which wouldn’t tarnish in the damp of the Catskills and Adirondacks, I full-length resized them, installed the same CCI250 primers and charge weight of IMR 4350, then seated those Sierra 180s on top.

Reloading-Components-cases
Pistol cartridges aren’t as finicky as rifles to changes in pressure and bullet shape, and mixing case brand doesn’t pose an issue. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

Initially, I thought something happened to my riflescope—it was an old steel-tube Weaver—because the bullets were striking 2½ inches higher and 1½ inches to the right, in a group about twice as large as it had been. Puzzled, I grabbed three rounds of the Frontier ammo and printed the same ¾-inch group the rifle had been printing, centered on the bull’s-eye. The difference was the cases. Though there was no issue with excessive pressures, I ended up using those cases for a different bullet, and it worked out just fine.

This phenomenon seems to be amplified in the higher-pressure cartridges; lower-pressure rounds like the .30-30 Winchester or the .45-70 Government won’t show these effects nearly as much as the .22-250 Remington or the 7mm Weatherby Magnum, both of which operate at or near SAAMI’s 65,000-psi maximum. Should you be forced to switch brands of rifle case, I recommend using a lighter powder charge and working back up; as an example, those Remington cases held 88.2 grains of water, while the Frontier cases held 93.1 grains of water, and that volume difference equated to a significant pressure difference.

Switching Primers

Switching primer brands can also have a considerable effect on the performance of your ammunition. If your loads are on the edge of giving high pressure, a primer switch has the potential to push things over the edge. I had this happen to me with a Ruger .308 Winchester that gave the best accuracy with charge weights near maximum. In the crunch of 2013—which may be surpassed by this one—I ran out of the CCI 200 primers and could only get Remington No. 9½ large-rifle primers.

Reloading-Components-primers
Primers play an important role in the pressure game, and switching rifle primer brands requires reworking your loads. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

The difference in primer heat generated a higher pressure in my rifle, flattening and cratering primers, and making bolt extraction very difficult. Until I could get the CCI 200s, I had to back off the heat (and, subsequently, I actually switched from IMR4064 to H380 powder when using those Remington primers) and gave up a bit in the accuracy department, though not enough for deer to notice.

Switching Bullets

Switching bullets has also been a challenge in certain rifles. I’ve had guns like projectiles with more bearing surface, and I’ve had some show a preference for lighter bullets. When one or the other is unavailable and a switch is made, problems can arise.

Switching from a cup-and-core bullet to a monometal bullet will create a different pressure curve. While many of us take this for granted, I know many novice or inexperienced reloaders believe that a 180-grain bullet is a 180-grain bullet, irrespective of construction or conformation, and feel that no adjustment need be made when switching between them. The monometal boat-tail spitzer with polymer tip is a different animal from a flat base, round nose cup-and-core bullet, and though a black bear on bait 65 yards from the shooter might not care, the barrel will.

Massaro-Rifle-Cases
Switching brands or types of rifle cases can result in changes in velocity and pressure as a result of the differences in volume. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

Likewise, a 6.5mm 140-grain Sierra MatchKing has a different design than a 140-grain Berger VLD Target. Both are good bullets, but will probably not be interchangeable if you’re serious about long-range shooting.

Pistol cartridges, with the exception of the big guys like the .454 Casull, .44 Magnum and .460 and .500 S&W, aren’t nearly as sensitive to changes in case brand or primer brand. Winchester’s large pistol primers (WLP) are labeled for use with both standard and magnum loads. But, in my experience, the .45 ACP won’t deliver radically different ballistics with any one of the large pistol primers, and switching between them isn’t a big deal.

The Final Round

It’s times like these that cause many people to stock up on those components they use most, sometimes to excess, and it’s definitely times like these that spark an interest in reloading. Though I shoot much more reloaded ammunition than factory ammo, even in times of plenty, I hope this drought serves to inspire all shooters to learn how to reload their ammo, whether it’s for a handgun, shotgun or rifle.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

More On Reloading:

First Look: Sauer SL5 Waterfowl Shotguns

By
Adam Borisenko
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J.P. Sauer & Sohn has just added three new waterfowl models to the SL5 shotgun line.

J.P. Sauer & Sohn has just added waterfowl models to its SL5 line of 12-gauge semi-auto shotguns. The German company already offered turkey, tactical and classic configurations of the SL5, but now three options for waterfowlers are available as well.

Sauer-Waterfowl-black

Sauer may be German, but like the rest of the SL5 shotgun line, the new SL5 Waterfowl models are made in Italy. Also in common with the previous SL5 models, the Waterfowl line are inertia-driven semi-auto 12-gauge shotguns with a 3+1 capacity and chrome-lined barrels. Unlike the older models, the SL5 Waterfowl guns feature a 3.5-inch chamber. The barrels also feature a stepped rib and are available in lengths of 26, 28 and 30 inches.

Sauer-SL5-waterfowl-Fred-Brown-Camo

Other features of the SL5 Waterfowl series include sling attachment points, a recoil pad, a red fiber-optic bead sight and a rubber comb integrated into the synthetic stock. Each shotgun ships with five extended Crio Plus chokes as well. The three models vary only in their finishes. The standard configuration features black furniture and a black finish on the metal, but the other two are a bit more eye-catching. One sports a Fred Bear Old School Camo coating all over, while the other features the same retro camo on the stock and forearm but with a brown Cerakote finish on the metal instead.

Sauer-Waterfowl-brown-Cerakote

Jason Evans, CEO of Blaser Group, said this about the new waterfowl models:

We are excited to introduce these new, high-performance SL5 Waterfowl shotguns…They are designed to withstand the brutal elements waterfowl hunters experience throughout the season, year after year, and the Fred Bear Old School Camo pattern is a true classic that is popular with many hunters of all ages. We’ve had a lot of requests for this pattern and are happy to finally meet the demand.

All three new models are available now and are backed by a 10-year warranty. MSRPs range from $1,579 to $1,799.

For more information, please visit jpsauer-usa.com.

More On Shotguns:

Aim Small, Miss Small: Riflescopes For Varmint Shooting

By
Patrick Meitin
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Center-punching tiny targets requires top-notch glass, but what makes a riflescope acceptable for varmint shooting?

Any old scope will suffice for varmint shooting—unless you actually want to hit something. For what’s to follow to make any sense, you must first have some small interest in serious burrowing rodent shooting. I’m not talking about causal dabbling with your favorite deer rifle, or sniping the occasional prairie dog, ground squirrel or farmland woodchuck out of pure boredom, but sure enough serious small-varmint shooting.

Serious typically translates into serious money spent on serious varmint rifles, something chambered in a fast, reach-out-there small bore and holding a chunky tactical-style stock and bull barrel. Something chambered in, say, .204 Ruger, .223 Remington or .22-250 Remington. Something weighing 10 or 12 pounds out of the box. Something capable of at least ½-MOA five-shot groups at 100 yards on a very consistent basis. And shooting regularly resulting in burning multiple hundreds of rounds per diem. That kind of serious.

Varmint-Shooting-feature

Of course, small varmint shooting can also involve rimfires, and I’ll get into that too but we’re, again, usually talking about something a little more serious than your childhood single-shot directing bullets with iron sights. My two serious .22 LRs, built on Ruger 10/22 actions, hold $750 to $850 worth of aftermarket parts. So that tells you where I’m coming from when I say serious burrowing rodent shooting.

I’m a real gun nut with a serious addiction, and I shoot small varmints—burrowing rodents mostly—with body counts reaching into the thousands. For instance, I shot 750-plus rounds of ammo in 2½ days at tiny eastern Oregon Belding’s ground squirrels last week. I can rattle off my latest truly impressive shot at the drop of a hat: rock chuck, 403 yards, 10- to 11-mph crosswind, .22 Creedmoor, Berger 85.5-grain LR Hybrid Target (G1 BC .445) sent at 3,202 fps, 300-yard zero, 3.9 MOA come-up, 3.4 MOA wind correction. Cold-shot kill, and I hiked all the way across that rough canyon to take a picture, too. 

I always say you can’t hit what you can’t see, and most small varmints grow awful small with the perspective of a couple hundred yards added. I find a single precision kill more satisfying than any number of lucky hits generated by a requisite number of bullets sent downrange.

The ambiguous “they” will warn of the horrors of midday heat shimmer, your every heartbeat telegraphed into wiggling reticles, the difficulty of finding targets and excess weight. The heat-shimmer argument, in my experience, is greatly exaggerated. I just don’t seem to suffer the same degree of problems related in print—but then again, my varmint rifles generally hold glass with MSRPs far greater than the rifles that hold them. It regularly hits me that my high-end variables rarely come off the highest magnification, even on the warmest days. Regarding unsteady crosshairs, well, I just don’t do that much unsupported varmint shooting. There’s usually a portable bench involved or a cradle or bags tossed onto the roof of the truck (to gain some vegetation-penetrating elevation) or situated over the hood of a truck. If I go for a hike—as I often do while hunting rock chucks on rough-and-tumble public ground—my rifle wears a quality bipod.

If you have a difficult time finding your target in the scope, no matter the magnification, I’d say you aren’t spending near enough time behind said optic. Getting on target quickly, even with excessive magnification, comes easier with practice. Or twisting the magnification rings up and down between shots … weight? We’re talking varmint shooting here, not mountain hunting. When sniping tiny, distant targets, weight is your friend.

Varmint-Shooting-rifles
The majority of today’s rifles are capable of very good accuracy. Top-notch optics, and good shooting techniques, are what ultimately make the difference.

Centerfire Glass

A dedicated varmint rifle, one used exclusively to target burrowing rodents, deserves serious glass. This doesn’t include predator calling, which average big-game scopes cover quite well. When choosing a serious varmint scope, my demands are pretty dogmatic. I want a side parallax knob (not front bell). I insist on exposed turrets. I’ll take ballistic holdover marks only if they don’t become clutter. I want second focal plane—period. A 50mm or larger objective lens and top-notch optics coatings are preferred. As far as magnification, I’d call 6-24x just about ideal.

Side parallax serves double duty; bringing targets into gin-clear focus and—just as importantly when shooting at extended ranges—ensuring reticles are precisely aligned in the image plane, eliminating the absolute need to center the eye perfectly in the scope before each shot.

When taking 150- to 250-yard chip shots, ballistic holdover marks are acceptable, though I cannot abide ultra-busy reticles that only serve to obscure the target. At 300 yards and beyond, hit-to-miss ratios began to erode quite quickly, and this is where turrets take over. Kentucky windage offers no consistent precision at extended ranges, turrets shifting the program from luck to decisive aiming once again. Larger, more wary varmints, such as rock or woodchucks, provide a wider margin for error, prepared ballistic charts usually getting the job done even on longer shots. On smaller burrowing rodents, especially ground squirrels, some trial-and-error dialing (particularly for wind) is sometimes required—which isn’t out of the question, as you’ll commonly receive multiple shots at a single critter, or one of his buddies volunteering at a similar range. 

Why dedicated varmint shooters (or big-game hunters for that matter) would choose a first focal plane scope (FFP) is a mystery to me. The common reasoning is that FFP maintains a consistent relation to the target throughout its full range of magnification, which allows making more accurate yardage and moving-target lead estimations through the scope via MOA or MIL marks of known value. This might prove useful to military snipers engaging human targets in fluid battlefield scenarios, but we’re varmint shooters, not military snipers, despite any delusions to the contrary.

The problem in varmint shooting, engaging tiny rodents (not humans), is FFP crosshairs appear coarser in relation to the target at higher magnifications, and often begin to obscure targets at longer ranges—when such magnification is most useful. Too, we own laser rangefinders, so don’t need to judge range via crosshair relations. I prefer the frog-hair-fine crosshairs of a quality SFP reticle, which remain thin at every magnification setting. The ability to aim at a specific point on a rodent, even see hide to each side of the crosshair, goes a long way toward connecting on the trickiest shots.

I’ve pointed to the 6-24x50mm configuration as my top preference, with my three Vortex Viper PST turret scopes responsible for much of that reverence. Some other current favorites include a Trijicon 5-20x50mm AccuPoint, Leupold VX-3i 8.5-25x50mm and Meopta Optika6 MeoPro 4.5-27×50.

Vortex-Razor-HD-LHT
Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15x50mm.

Rimfire Glass

My tricked-out Ruger 10/22s I’ve mentioned, one holding a match-chamber Volquartsen bull barrel, another a Benz-chambered Adaptive Tactical Tac-Hammer tensioned barrel, both including Little Crow Gunworks’ GRX recoil jobs and professional bedding. Other recent .22 LR experiences involved Ruger’s American Rimfire Long Range Target and Bergara’s B-14 rifles, .22 LRs holding grown-up stocks with adjustable cheekpieces and such. All include accuracy potential far exceeding any high-velocity hollow-point ammo that might be counted on to anchor tenacious burrowing critters. In some places, like eastern Oregon or southern Idaho, bulk packs of .22 LR shells are consumed per diem during these campaigns.

I also spent this past spring shooting an Anschutz 1761 chambered in .17 HMR, despite owning a laminated-stocked, heavy-barreled Marlin XT-17 in the same chambering that’ll hold its own against the expensive German rifle. In some places, against the smallest ground squirrels, in particular (eastern Oregon’s Belding’s, Southern Idaho’s Richardson’s), when wandering northern Idaho’s vast clear-cuts or cruising private ranch roads between centerfire portable-bench setups, I’m simply in a rimfire frame of mind. This doesn’t mean I take this shooting any less seriously than centerfire sniping.

A rimfire scope should include parallax adjustment—simple as that. If it doesn’t, even if it’s given a rimfire label, I’ve zero interest. The reason has less to do with parallax corrections and more to do with focus. A rimfire is generally chosen in high-volume arenas, meaning a “rat” might be engaged out to, say, 150 yards (the point at which even the fastest .22 LR energy drops off exponentially) or pop out of a burrow at 15 or 20 yards. Even if only 15 yards away, I prefer shooting at tack-sharp targets.

Rimfire scopes need not be expensive to remain functional—and I beat mine up pretty hard. Some of the best examples include the two Bushnell Rimfire Optics held by my 10/22s. One, a A22, includes a 3.5-10x36mm configuration, the other a 3-12x40mm. Zeroed at 50 yards, the A22 includes lower hash marks that correspond to 75-, 100- and 125-yard impacts relatively well. The 3-12x40mm includes exposed pre-etched turrets providing options marked 75, 100, 125, 150 and 175—as in yards. The A22 includes an objective-bell parallax (not my favorite, but acceptable on a rimfire) and the other, a side parallax adjustment. I don’t think either one set me back more than $150 to $175.

A rimfire scope need not have a rimfire label to remain viable. That Ruger American Rimfire Long Range mentioned earlier wears a 30mm-tubed Bushnell Engage 2.5-10x44mm big-game scope, for instance. It includes, firstly, side parallax focus, and not only Deploy MOA hold-over marks but exposed turrets. I’ve made some rather long .22 LR shots using both systems. That Anschutz 1761 wore a Burris RT-15 3-15x50mm all spring—a pretty serious centerfire scope with side parallax adjustment and exposed turrets. My Marlin XT-17 is now paired with a Vortex 6-18x44mm Crossfire II with objective-bell focus and ballistic compensation marks. I’ve used all to snipe ground squirrels at ranges well outside what would be considered normal rimfire ranges.

Burris-Scope-varmint-shooting
Burris RT-15 3-15x50mm.

Extreme Glass

There are circumstances or times when you simply feel like challenging yourself. I’d say anything past 400 yards (when wind stirs) to 500 yards (on calm days) qualifies here, because we’re talking burrowing rodents and not man-sized steel gongs. I’ve certainly made such shots with standard varmint cartridges in a pinch, but when I know I’ll be going long—or when seeking such scenarios—my varmint rifles become a little more specialized.

Traditionally, this has involved my custom 6mm Remington with a fast-twist barrel or Ruger Precision Rifle in 6mm Creedmoor (both fed sleek, ballistically talented 105- to 110-grain bullets), more recently my Little Crow Gunworks-built, 1:7-twist .22 Creedmoor sending 85.5- to 90-grain bullets with BCs in the .500s at around 3,200 fps. Unlike rounds such as the .22-250 Remington or .220 Swift launching 50- to 55-grain bullets with BCs in the high .200s, these cartridge/bullet/rifle combos trim 10-mph/400-yard wind-drift margins from feet to inches.    

Eotech-Vudu
EOTech Vudu 5-25x50mm FFP.

Optic features mirror those already touched on, I just adopt a touch more magnification in the interests of clearly seeing my target way out there. A Trijicon AccuPower 4.5-30x56mm tops my .22 Creedmoor. Hawke’s Frontier 30 SF 5-30x56mm SF Mil Pro graces my 6mm Creedmoor. My 6mm Remington presently holds an EOTech Vudu 5-25x50mm compact, because this has become my walkabout rockchuck rifle. All include exposed, zero-stop turrets that track reliably and easily return to a known zero after substantial vertical corrections. The Trijicon and Hawke sport 56mm objective lens to tame heat shimmer on longer shots in rocky terrain. All include exceptional optics, allowing separating chameleon-like rockchucks from cluttered backgrounds, and nearly microscopic crosshairs to allow precise shot placement. All but the Hawke include alarming price tags. 

I’m not all that particular about what optic is tacked on to my big-game rifles. Give me a decent straight-6 and you’ll hear no complaints from me. Big game is, well, big. The burrowing rodents, which hold so much fascination for me, not so much. Interestingly, I also tend to shoot at small varmints at much greater distances than I consider prudent with big game. A gut-shot varmint is still a good varmint—good and dead.

And you simply can’t hit what you can’t see!

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the 2021 Buyer's Guide special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

More On Riflescopes:

  • 8 Revolutionary Reticles For Long-Range Accuracy
  • Buying the Perfect Precision Scope
  • The Best Tactical Red-Dot Performance-to-Price Option?
  • Shifting Winds: SIG BDX Changing Shooting For The Better

Sig Sauer P320 Review: Completely Customizable

By
Richard A. Mann
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A review of the completely customizable Sig Sauer P320 along with some upgrades from Wilson Combat.

I’m not a fan of hammerless handguns, and I’m not a plastic pistol guy. I’m not suggesting plastic pistols are junk or that you shouldn’t own or like them; they’re just not for me. However, I’m a red-blooded American, meaning that I, as many other patriots do, like to have the same handgun our military trusts. I grew up with a 1911, and it was my standard issue as an M1 tank commander. I also won the West Virginia National Guard Pistol Match with a Beretta. So, in 2017, when the United States Army adopted the Sig Sauer P320 as their new handgun, well, I had to have one. Ironically, I was in the Sig Sauer booth at SHOT Show when the news was announced.

When my P320 showed up, I dutifully took it to the range and shot it quite a bit. I was impressed by the trigger, the way the gun fit my hand and how well I was able to shoot it. However, I cleaned it, boxed it, put it in the safe and continued to carry one of my Browning Hi Powers or my Wilson Combat EDC X9. Sure, on occasion, I’ll pull the P320 out for some range time or to work with it for an article, but beyond that it was a safe queen.

Things change.

Last year, Wilson Combat introduced a fully customized Sig Sauer P320. After receiving the pistol, the first thing I did was call Bill Wilson—Wilson Combat’s founder—and ask him why Wilson Combat, which was founded on the steel-framed 1911, decided to offer a custom P320. Bill’s response was, “Let’s face it, like the 1911 and the M9 [Beretta] being adopted by the military, the P320 is here to stay for a while. Also, we immediately saw ways we could improve on the basic gun.”

Sig-P320-shooting

And improve on the gun they did. The pistol worked, fit my hand well, had an excellent trigger, was controllable, easy to reload, reliable, and most importantly, I shot it well—better than I did the factory stock version. Almost reluctantly, I had to admit I liked it. This was due in no small part to the Wilson Combat grip module, which is a large portion of the customization. Wilson combat offers 14 different aftermarket grip modules for the P320 in various configurations and in either black or tan. They all retail for $64.95.

Small Change, Big Change

What makes these grip modules so special? The grip size is minutely larger than the Sig Sauer “small” module, but they feature a higher and deeper cut at the tang. They also have deeply dished cuts for the thumb on the sides near the magazine release, and a deeper undercut at the trigger guard. The sides of the grip feature the Wilson Combat starburst pattern, and the front strap and backstrap have a sandpaper-like texture. The magazine well also has a generous bevel, an accessory rail is standard and steel rods can even be added to the module to increase weight.

Sig-Sauer-P320-wilson-combat-frame
Here you can see the differences between a factory Sig Sauer P320 Compact grip module (left) and a Wilson Combat P320 grip module (right). Notice the Wilson Combat grip module has the optional cut-out for the manual thumb safety.

I felt the Wilson Combat grip module was more comfortable and stuck to my hand better. At the same time I was working with this pistol, I was also helping Benghazi hero David “Boon” Benton train some local patrol and SWAT officers. Benton, a man with serious combat handgun experience that matters, told me he’s been using a Wilson Combat P320 grip module since it was introduced. He said, “That Wilson Combat frame makes [the P320] feel more 1911-ish, it points better for me as well, so I get a better natural point of aim … and it helps me get higher underneath the trigger guard.”

I mention all this so that you understand how my relationship with the Sig Sauer P320 went from an obligatory patriotic admiration to more of an awakened appreciation of the platform’s versatility. I say platform, because that’s what the P320 really is. I know the gun’s modularity has been hashed out in these and others, but I’m not convinced the average shooter truly realizes what’s possible with it. Though it’s my job to know these things and share them with other shooters, I believe I’ve somewhat ignored this aspect of the P320 as well. I must thank Wilson Combat for helping me get my shit together as far as the P320 is concerned.

A Platform Dissected

So, just so you understand the particulars of this pistol—platform—let’s start with the actual portion of the pistol that’s considered a firearm. It’s not the grip frame, slide or barrel. The serialized portion of the Sig Sauer P320 is what is called the fire control unit. This is a metal assembly of parts that include a frame, slide catch, disconnector trigger bar, trigger, sear and springs. It’s also where you’ll find the serial number.

Sig-P320-takedown-lever
To remove the P320s fire control unit, you must first remove the takedown lever. After the fire control unit is installed in a grip module, the next step is the installation of the takedown lever.

This means that the grip module, slide and barrel are not controlled parts. So, technically speaking, you could have one fire control unit and multiple grip modules, slides and barrels. To put it another way, you can have one fire control unit and several pistols, even for different cartridges.

Essentially, you can get it any way you like it.

The configuration of these pistols around the fire control unit is much easier than you might expect. To remove the fire control unit, you lock the pistol’s slide to the rear, move the takedown lever—clockwise—to about the 7 o’clock position and remove the slide and barrel.

Sig-P320-takedown
After a new fire control unit is installed in a grip module, and the takedown lever has been fully inserted, you can then install the barrel/slide assembly of your choice.

The next step is to fully remove the takedown lever. To do this, you pull on it and continue to rotate. The fire control unit can now be removed by lifting up and pulling forward on the two slide rails at the front. This will extract the T-shaped flange at the rear of the fire control unit from the tang of the grip module. Once completed, you can then begin to reconfigure the platform in whatever version makes you the happiest.

As an example, my M17 P320, which is the civilian version of the military’s pistol, has a 4.7-inch barrel and an ambidextrous manual thumb safety. Being a 1911/Hi Power guy, I really like the thumb safety, but the 4.7 barrel and slide makes for a big pistol that’s a bit difficult to conceal. I also much prefer the Wilson Combat compact grip module.

SIG Talk: Explore Reviews, Tips, and Insights

CCW-ing The P320

So, what did I do?

I inserted the M17’s fire control unit into a Wilson Combat compact grip module. Then, I took a slide and 3.9-inch barrel from a P320 RXP Compact, which comes out of the box with a Sig Sauer Romeo1 reflex sight and high-profile three-dot night sights that can be co-witnessed and installed them on the Wilson Compact grip module.

Sig-Sauer-P320-wilson-combat
This author’s reconfigured P320 for home defense. It has a Wilson Combat grip module, the fire control unit from a P320 RXP Compact and an M17 slide and barrel, with a Sig Sauer Romeo1 reflex sight and a protective shroud.

This accomplished two things that were very important to me. First, the original P320 RXP Compact didn’t have a manual thumb safety. The M17 fire control unit fixed that. Second, the conversion essentially turned my full-size M17 into a more compact, easier to carry and conceal, handgun.

But just like on those late-night infomercials, there’s more.

I then took the fire control unit from the P320 RXP Compact and installed it in another Wilson Combat compact grip module—one without a cutout for a manual safety—and then took the 4.7-inch barrel and slide from the M17 and installed it on that grip frame. I also installed a Crimson Trace CMR-208 Rail Master Universal Tactical Light on the rail.

I still have two pistols, but one is configured for concealed carry and the other for home defense. Both have the same size grip module, both have reflex sights and both feel identical in my hand. The home-defense version is longer and heavier and doesn’t have the manual safety.

Sig-Sauer-P320-aiming
Out of the box and unaltered, Sig P320 pistols are great handguns. However, their modularity combined with the grip module options from Wilson Combat, make them the most versatile defensive handguns you can own.

Now, I could’ve accomplished this switch without the Wilson Combat grip modules, except the P320 RXP Compact grip module didn’t have a cutout for the manual thumb safety of the M17’s fire control unit; Wilson Combat offers compact and full-size grip modules with and without a manual safety cutout. And, given that I much prefer the Wilson Combat grip modules to the Sig Sauer factory grip modules, that was an easy $64.95 answer.

Two Fire Control Variations

There’s one important point that needs to be discussed. In 2016, it was discovered that the P320 could possibly fire if dropped. Sig didn’t issue a recall but did offer a voluntary upgrade. Due to this upgrade, there are two variations of the fire control unit. If your P320 has a thick trigger, it’s the pre-upgrade version. If it has a thin trigger, it’s the post-upgrade version.

Sig-P320-FCUs
The original fire control unit for the P320 (left), note the thick trigger and lack of a disconnector, versus the post-update version of the P320 fire control unit (right). Note the thinner trigger and addition of a disconnector.

The trigger shape isn’t the only difference; the post-upgrade unit has a disconnector. A pre-upgrade slide will not work with a post-upgrade fire control unit, but a post-upgrade slide will work with a pre-upgrade fire control unit. Keep this in mind when assembling a P320 in a configuration other than in its factory form. 

The point of all of this is that the Sig Sauer P320 is much more than just a pistol. It’s a highly modular handgun system that has almost endless possibilities. I’m strongly drawn to the potentials of this platform, much in the same way I appreciate the AR-15’s modularity. I wouldn’t say I’ve become a striker-fired/plastic pistol guy, but I’ll say that you shouldn’t be surprised if you see a Sig Sauer P320—in some form or another—on my side.

Like me, maybe you should give the P320 another—keener—look.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the 2021 CCW special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

More CCW Handguns:

Handgun Gear: Best 9mm Suppressor Choices

By
Elwood Shelton
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1

The top 9mm suppressor options to put a lid on your nine.

What are the best 9mm suppressors:

The most shot centerfire cartridge in the United States, the 9mm is as pervasive as the air we breathe. Chances are you have one in your collection, even if you’re lukewarm on the caliber. Admit it.

Its prominence is no mystery. The caliber is easy to shoot well, is a capable self-defense option, and is perhaps only eclipsed by the .22LR in economy of ammunition. It is also something else – eminently suppressible. The right can and your pistol – or pistol caliber carbine for that matter – is as stealthy as it gets in the centerfire world. That raises the question, however, what is the right 9mm suppressor?

No easy answer there, like choosing a gun it matters what’s right to you. There are a few facets you’ll definitely want to consider when shopping for an accessory that’s potentially as expensive as your pistol. Among these are:

  • Size: Do you require something short and dexterous for shooting on the move or will a full-sized unit fit the bill.
  • Weight: Will it throw the balance of your gun out of whack?
  • Sound Suppression: How much do you need to achieve your goals?
  • Flexibility: Is the suppressor dedicated to one caliber or will it sever multiple guns?
  • Cost: How much can you afford, given you have a tax bill on top of costs?

As usual, you’ll have to assess your own situation and what suppressor ticks off the right boxes. In the meantime, we’ll give you a taste of some of the best choices out there today. On top of their games, these 12 9mm suppressor options fill about every conceivable niche and will certainly keep a lid on your nine.

Best 9mm Suppressor Options

Sig ModX-9

Sig Modx-9

Sig certainly built suspense with its modular pistol suppressor. The ModX-9 made its debut at the 2019 SHOT Show to great fanfare, exciting shooters with the direction the company was taking its burgeoning suppressor empire. Flash forward to the winter of 2020 and the ModX-9 finally hit store shelves.

Despite the thumb-twiddling the wait was worth it, with Sig delivering among the slimmest, lightest and effective modular cans on the market. Thank advanced manufacturing for the ModX-9’s attributes, with the 3D-printed titanium device boasting a flawless fit and function. To its fine points, the 9mm suppressor comes in at 7.75-inches in its full configuration and weighs a very manageable 8 ounces. But it shrinks down to 3.25 with just its blast baffle and end cap for a tidy 5-ounce package. With eight total baffles, shooters can modify it to their situation at hand. No matter the size, it does a capital job of noise reduction, cutting a 9mm’s report to around 127 dB at full length to 145 dB in its smallest alignment.

Sig includes two springs with the ModX-9 with different tensions, two pistons with metric and imperial thread patterns and a fixed barrel spacer. The final point makes the suppressor compatible with carbines and sub guns, where the reciprocation of the entire booster assembly isn’t required. A nice point bout the ModX-9, it carries its weight reward, which adds to its nimbleness even when run at full length.

Sig ModX-9 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm
Weight: 8/5 ounces
Length: 7.75/3.25 inches
Diameter: 1.35 inches
Materials: Titanium
Finish: N/A
Attachment: 1/2×28 and M13.5x1LH
Average Decibels: 127 (approx.) dB full configuration
MSRP: $925

YHM 9mm Sidewinder

YHM Suppressor

Even before ponying up for the tax stamp—not to mention your time filling out paperwork and waiting—a suppressor is often a sizable investment. Most retail just shy $1,000, in turn, often costing more than the guns they’re destined to hush up. This makes the Sidewinder so refreshing. Ringing up at less than $600 at most outlets, the 9mm suppress doesn’t put a shooter in the poorhouse and performs well beyond its price.

Yankee Hill’s can is pretty straightforward, a user-serviceable unit with an aluminum tube and monocore, and stainless steel blast baffle. Yeah, like many monos it suffers from first-round pop—a function of larger chamber volume. But once settled in shooters can expect generous noise reduction in the neighborhood of 36 dB—more when wet. Though, there is a bit of a trade for price and performance. The Sidewinder runs on the heavier end of the spectrum at a hair over 10 ounces, which is fairly hefty particularly for something pistol specific. For many, the Sidewinder might make a better PPC option.

The drawback for those who figure the suppressor is perfect for a carbine, it’s purely a direct-attachment affair. Not a deal-breaker, but certainly a slower switchover compared to quick-attach systems. As to its threads, three patterns are available: 1/2″-28, 1/2″-36 and metric 13.5×1 LH.

YHM 9mm Sidewinder Specs:
Caliber: 9mm /.300 Blackout
Weight: 10.2 ounces
Length: 7.8 inches
Diameter: 1.375 inches
Materials: Aluminum/Stainless Steel
Finish: Hardcoat Anodized
Attachment: 1/2″-28, 1/2″-36 and metric 13.5×1 LH
Average Decibels: 125 (approx.) dB full configuration
MSRP: $745

Gemtech Lunar 9

Gemtech_lunar_9-005

Modularity, it’s pretty much becoming the norm in suppressors. Why not? Drop the coin and jump the hoops, might as well have a can with versatility baked into the cake. Which makes the configurability of Gemtech’s newest offering a surprise to absolutely no one.

The ability to run two different lengths—7 or 4.7 inches—both extremely lightweight with a 10-ounce top end, makes the Lunar 9 a do-all, perfect for tactical and pleasure shooting. Though, this just the tip of the iceberg. Making matters considerably more convenient, the 9mm suppressor is also compatible—thanks to Gemtech‘s Multi-Mount system—with a variety of the company’s mounting systems—three-lug, direct thread, what have you. As for noise reduction, the Lunar 9 gets the job done, no matter what size you run it. In full configuration, it’ll knock a pistol down into the 120 dB range, shortened up the mid-130s. Not quite enough to go without plugs, but a comfortable level nonetheless.

Gemtech Lunar 9 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm /.300 Blackout
Weight: 10/7 ounces
Length: 7/4.7 inches
Diameter: 1.4 inches
Materials: Aluminum/stainless steel
Finish: Hardcoat Anodize
Attachment: 1/2×28 booster included. Compatible with GM-9 mounts
Average Decibels: 129 (approx.) dB full configuration
MSRP: $654

CGS MOD-9

CGS Mod 9

Doesn’t matter if you’re talking handguns or precision optics, striking a balance is always a challenge. Suppressors are no different, though CGS goes a long way in finding middle ground with its MOD 9. Lightweight, yet durable and an excellent noise-reduction profile, the 9mm suppressor walks the line on all the desirable attributes shooters search for in a can.

Yeah, the MOD-9 is a full-sized, measuring in at 7.7 inches in length, with a 1.37-inch tube diameter. If you aren’t kicking in doors for a living that should prove more than manageable, especially for the payoff. CGS has cooked up a quiet suppressor—mouse-sneeze quiet. Of course, this varies depending on ammo and barrel length, but expect most 9mms with a 4-inch-plus fire tube to generate between 113 and 120 dB with a MOD-9 mounted. Aluminum is the main ingredient of the build, including the suppressor's 6 baffle stack and tube. This keeps it a light 10 ounces. One last note, the piston assembly is impressive, with 12-point rotational adjustment to dial in for impact shift.

CGS MOD-9 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm/.22 LR/.300 Blackout
Weight: 10 ounces
Length: 7.7 inches
Diameter: 1.37 inches
Materials: Aluminum tube and baffle stack, stainless steel blast baffle
Finish: Black Anodized
Average Decibels: 123.7dB full configuration
MSRP: $915

Rugged Suppressors Obsidian 45

9mm Suppressor Rugged-Suppressors-Obsidian

Technically, the Rugged Suppressors Obsidian 45 is much more than a 9mm suppressor. Rated for .45 ACP, the extremely robust device handles some real heavyweights, including .450 Bushmaster, .45-70 Government and .458 SOCOM—with the appropriate barrel length. Quite a spread, to say the least, making the Obsidian an ideal choice if you not only want to hush up your ‘Nine’, but a load of rifles and carbines.

The versatility doesn’t stop with caliber compatibility. Modular, you can tailor the Obsidian to your firearm and application with an 8.7-inch full configuration and 6.7-inch K configuration. This gives you ideal lengths for use on your rifle or pistol. Either way, the suppressor is full-auto rated for all pistol calibers, as well as .300 Blackout and does a number on your gun’s report. At full length, it knocks a 9mm pistol’s report down to 123.7dB run dry. The unit features a non-slotted piston design, cutting down on gas blowback from handguns, and is constructed of a durable aircraft-grade aluminum tube and stainless steel baffles. This is a true jack-of-all-trades.

Rugged Suppressors Obsidian 45 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm/.45 ACP
Weight: 10.7-12.8 ounces
Length: 6.7-8.6 inches
Diameter: 1.37 inches
Materials: Aluminum tube, stainless steel baffles
Finish: Hard Coat Anodized and Cerokote
Attachment: .578×28 Piston
Average Decibels: 123.7dB full configuration
MSRP: $875

Dead Air Odessa-9

9mm suppressor odessa

Sound suppression, for obvious reasons, is what headlines suppressor innovation. But what about the little things that make a can more functional and practical to a greater swath of shooters? Dead Air homed in on these and, it’s safe to say, knocked it out of the park with the Odessa-9.

Among the most notable aspects is the 1.1-inch tube. On the surface, the slim design might not sound like much, until you consider it is fully compatible with nearly every pistol’s stock sights. Moreover, the 9mm suppressor adapts to any application put in front of it, given its modular design. You can run the Odessa with all 11 baffles if noise suppression is at a premium or with just one if you need to take the edge off your gun’s report. And it will do its job when run short, with four baffles putting subsonic ammunition at or near safe hearing levels. Full length, the 10-ounce suppressor reduces subsonic 9mm ammo to around 122dB. There’s little argument, the Odessa-9 makes going suppressed a whole lot easier.

Dead Air Odessa-9 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm/.380 ACP, .32 ACP, 5.7x28mm, .17 HMR, .22 Mag, .22 LR
Weight: 10.6 ounces
Length: 8.59 inches
Diameter: 1.1 inches
Materials: Stainless Steel
Finish: Black Nitride
Attachment: 1/2×28, M13.5X1 LH
Average Decibels: 122dB full configuration
MSRP: $899

SIG Sauer SRD9

9mm suppressor srd9

Move over King Midas! It’s Sig Sauer that has the golden touch—at least when it comes to firearms and firearms accessories. The SRD9 is proof enough of this.

The user-serviceable 9mm suppressor is an absolute top-shelf choice. Made with a Grade 9 titanium tube and high nickel alloy stainless steel baffles, the device isn’t only lightweight (9 ounces), it’s effective. Run dry, the SRD9 knocks a 9mm’s report down to around 128dB. Full-auto rated, the suppressor also is compatible with the most popular pistol calibers: 9mm, .40 S&W and .45 ACP. It also comes with both a 1/2×28 and an m13.5x1LH pistons, giving it the ability to mount across the board, regardless of a gun’s origin. With the SRD9, you’ll pay near an entry-level price, but get pro performance.

Sig Sauer SRD9 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm
Weight: 9 ounces
Length: 7.2 inches
Diameter: 1.38 inches
Materials: Titanium Tube, Stainless Steel Baffles
Finish: PVD
Attachment: 1/2×28, M13.5X1 LH
Average Decibels: 128dB
MSRP: $775

SilencerCo Osprey

9mm Suppressor osprey

SilencerCo’s uniquely shaped Osprey isn’t a spring chicken by any stretch of the imagination. But that doesn’t make the 9mm suppressor any less effective at doing its job. It’s among the best at cutting down noise, as well as offering one of the best possible shooting experiences.

The eccentric suppressor (meaning the bore doesn’t run down its center axis) offers a load of advantages over its cylindrical counterparts. First and foremost, it provides more internal volume for gases to expand, thus offers more noise-reduction capabilities. A 9mm’s report is reduced to 127dB, which is dynamite. Furthermore, its off-center design helps it stay out of your sight picture, in turn you get to keep your stock sights. Additionally, the device is extremely lightweight, composed of aluminum tube and baffles, and stainless steel blast baffle. Top noise reduction capabilities, user-friendly and lightweight—what’s not to like?

SilencerCo Osprey Specs:
Caliber: 9mm, .300 Blackout, .40 S&W, .45 ACP
Weight: 9.8 ounces
Length: 7.06 inches
Diameter: 1.30×1.75 inches
Materials: Aluminum Tube and Baffles, Stainless Steel Blast Baffle
Finish: Black Oxide
Attachment: Interchangeable Pistons
Average Decibels: 127dB
MSRP: $840

CMMG DefCan 9

DefCan9
Not everyone shoots 9mm from pistols. In turn, not every 9mm suppressor need be designed for handguns. A fact plain as day to AR specialists CMMG. Jumping into the noise reduction game this past year, the company tailored the pistol-caliber members of its DefCan line for sub-guns and AR pistols, rifles and carbines.

Unmistakably, the DefCan 9 looks the part. While extremely slender (1.38 inches), it is long – long as they come on this list at least. At 10.25 inches, even if it could fit your pistol, you wouldn’t want it there anyway. On a long-gun, SBR or AR-pistol it’s a completely different story. That extra length to dissipate gases does a number on a gun’s report, cutting it 32dB on average.

For its size, the DefCan 9 should prove a second thought mounted, given its featherweight. The suppressor adds a scant 10 ounces to a firearm, which is akin to adding many lighting options to the fore of a rail. Aluminum construction keeps the unit light, as well as imparting it with some desirable thermal properties, dissipating heat in a flash.

In its guts, the DefCan 9 uses a stack of seven M-style baffles, each of which has a squared port on the aperture. The design point further improves noise reduction, directing gas particles laterally inside the tube. The suppressor is completely sealed, in turn, not user accessible. However, it requires no routine cleaning.

DefCan 9 Specs:
Caliber: 9mm
Weight: 10 ounces
Length: 10.25 inches
Diameter: 1.375 inches
Materials: Aluminum Tube and Baffles
Finish: Hard Coat Anodized
Attachment: Bi-Lock Flash Hider with Included Peel Washer, Threaded 1/2-28
Average Decibels: 128dB (estimated)
MSRP: $700

SilencerCo Omega 9K

Omega-k
It’s difficult to make a suppressor list without the SilencerCo Omega K rearing its head. That goes for the ubiquitous 9mm. Residing on the tonier end of the market, the Omega 9K is hardly money wasted. It’s light, compact and does what it was designed to do – keep a lid on your noisy guns.

Among the smallest 9mm suppressors on this list, the tubeless Omega K adds a negligible 4.7 inches to the overall length of your gun. Yes, you’ll still know it’s there, but if you happen to compete or engage in any shooting activity that requires agility the suppressor won’t hang you up. Furthermore, at 7.2 ounces, the can won’t knock your pistol out of balance as greatly as heavier options.

Made from stainless steel and stellite (a cobalt-chromium alloy), the Omega K is wang-leather tough. The abrasion-resistant and extremely hard alloy is renowned for its wear resistance, standing up to long shooting sessions as well as the most rugged external punishment.

As to the suppressor’s performance where it counts – noise reduction – it’s a bit below par compared to longer options. SilencerCo pegs the average report of a 9mm outfitted with an Omega at 131.5dB, around 28.5dB of noise reduction. Not top of the charts, not a slouch either – especially for its size. If you need a push over the edge to spend the money, it can digest sub and supersonic 300 Blackout rounds as well.

Omega 9K Specs:
Caliber: 9MM AND .300 BLK
Weight: 7.2 ounces
Length: 4.7 inches
Diameter: 1.48 inches
Materials: Stellite Tube, Stainless Steel Baffles
Finish: Black Oxide
Attachment: Direct Thread
Average Decibels: 131.5dB (estimated)
MSRP: $750

Griffin Armament Revolution 9

griffin-arm
Adaptable to your requirements, the Revolution 9 is akin to two cans in one. Modular in design, the 9mm suppressor has two configurations – full length and what Griffin Armament’s call its “K” version. The latter arrangement shaves 3-inches off the Rev 9, making for a more adroit unit, ideal for a nightstand gun or the like.

You guessed it, you run small, you run louder. Never fear, you’ve got plenty of sound suppression to work with in the Rev 9. Booster housing on and all eight baffles in, the 7.6-inch suppressor shaves an impressive 34dB off a 9mm’s report. In the smaller “K” configuration, three baffles removed, it still provides a respectable 32dB of noise suppression.

Griffin Armament designed the Rev 9 as more than a range toy, stoutly constructed with stainless steel baffles and a hard-coat anodized aluminum tube. This, as you might expect, makes the suppressor a bit weightier – 11.2 ounces at full length. However, if you can stand a little more noise the “K” configuration drops the Rev 9 to 9.7 ounces.

Overall, it’s a clever and flexible concept that should cover all your bases, whatever they might be.

Revolution 9 Specs:
Caliber: 9MM AND .300 BLK
Weight: 9.7-11.2 ounces
Length: 7.88 inches
Diameter: 1.375 inches
Materials: Aluminum Tube, Stainless Steel Baffles
Finish: T3 Hard-coat Anodize, Nitride
Attachment: 1/2×28 or M13.5×1 LH
Average Decibels: 127dB (full length)
MSRP: $795

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Premier Body Armor Releases Everyday Armor T-Shirt

By
Adam Borisenko
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0

Premier Body Armor has recently released the second generation of the Everyday Armor T-Shirt or EAT2.0, a simple shirt that provides level IIIA ballistic protection.

Premier Body Armor mostly makes traditional armor, with its products spanning a wide range of different ballistic protection levels and intended uses. While the company has offered concealable soft armor before, it wasn’t concealable like the newest generation of the Everyday Armor T-Shirt or EAT2.0.

Everyday-Armor-T-shirt-feature

While traditional concealable armor vests are still typically quite bulky, the Everyday Armor T-Shirt takes the comfort and concealability to a new level. The garment itself, available in white or black, is a simple moisture-wicking polyester t-shirt. What makes these special is the fact that they feature built-in ballistic panel pockets on the front and rear.

Everyday-Armor-T-shirt-black

Each pocket will fit one of the two included ballistic inserts. The panels are NIJ tested to meet level IIIA standards, weigh .8 pounds each and are only .22-inches thick. Each panel is 7.75×12.75-inches in size and positioned to efficiently cover the Cardiac Box while remaining concealable. The newest generation of the Everyday Armor T-Shirt also features concealment channels which help keep the armor panels closer to the wearer’s body.

Premier-Body-Armor-EAT2

Alex Stewart, President of Premier Body Armor, said this about the EAT2.0:

Keep your traditional soft armor vest ready and on standby for SHTF situations, but for daily use consider the Everyday Armor T-Shirt 2.0 … This revolutionary product, now in its second generation, is the cutting edge of daily wear body armor. With the EAT2.0 you can wear real, Made in the USA, Level IIIA body armor all day without the awkwardness, discomfort, or lifestyle change that comes with a traditional bulletproof vest. This is the next evolution of EDC body armor.

The EAT2.0 bundle that includes one shirt plus two armor panels has an MSRP of $299. It’s offered in white or black, in sizes small through 3XL and it’s available now.

For more information, please visit premierbodyarmor.com.

More On Body Armor:

Red Dots Vs. Presbyopia

By
Richard A. Mann
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0

Taking the fight to presbyopia through the use of red dot optics.

Presbyopia sucks. I’ve written about presbyopia in these pages before, and how I had the prescription for my shooting glasses custom tailored to allow me to see the handgun’s sights and the target with near equal focus. In case you don’t know, presbyopia is the loss of your eyes’ ability to focus on nearby objects. It’s a natural and annoying part of aging and usually becomes noticeable in your early 40s. For shooters, the first sign of presbyopia is the inability to focus on handgun sights.

Prescription shooting glasses are an obvious and common solution to presbyopia. The problem is, at least from a self-defense standpoint, that for glasses to help you see your sights you must have them on. If you must hastily respond to a bump in the night, will you have time to get your glasses—the ones you only use for reading and shooting—on in time?

If you’re out and about in the real world, will you always be wearing them or even have them with you when you might need to shoot an attacker? Maybe, maybe not. Unless you wear glasses all the time, it’s not such a good idea to trust your survival to a situation where you’ll need them.

Presbyopia-feature-bantam-red-dot
The addition of the Holosun HS507K X2 sight on the SDS Imports Bantam Carry makes it well configured for home defense, especially since there’s still an option of conventional sights in case the reflex sight isn’t working.

Saved by the Dot

For that reason, reflex handgun sights have become very popular. Sure, they have a heritage rooted in competition and have proven to be faster than conventional handgun sights. But for those of us who need glasses to see conventional handgun sights precisely, reflex sights offer an eyewear-free solution to old eyes that might need to deal with bad guys.

I can swiftly and effortlessly aim a handgun outfitted with a reflex sight and obtain quality hits without the aid of my shooting glasses or any corrective eyewear. No, a reflex sight doesn’t allow me to shoot with the same eyes I had when I was 30, but it allows me to shoot with precision without having to wear something on my head.

Now I’m not suggesting a reflex sight is the ultimate answer to a defensive handgun. In fact, I’m somewhat hesitant to make the wholesale conversion because there are a lot of unknowns. It’s unknown exactly how durable these sights are. We tested some at Gunsite Academy not too long ago and the lens fell out of about 20 percent of them.

It’s also questionable how these sights might deal with light shining toward them or bright reflections. I’ve constructed some situations where light, combined with smudges or dust on the lens, made them unusable. On the other hand, for a handgun that’s specifically used for home defense, I think a reflex sight makes a lot of sense, especially if there’s a redundant set of conventional sights there, just in case.

For example, a handgun kept for home defense can be stored away from where dust or inadvertent finger contact can create lens aberrations. The safe storage also keeps the handgun from banging on things during normal daily wear, creating impacts that make the sight inoperable. Also, if you must quickly grab your handgun after being roused from a deep sleep, you won’t have your shooting glasses on or maybe even within reach. And, finally, nothing simplifies both eyes open shooting like a red dot can.

Pistol-red-dot-slides
The front slide is the original slide for the SDS Imports Bantam carry. The rear slide is the one machined by Fink’s Custom Gunsmithing to work with the Holosun HS507K X2 sight.

The Home-Defense Handgun

For all these reasons, I recently set up a handgun specifically for home defense that’s outfitted with a reflex sight. After talking at length with Dave Fink of Fink’s Custom Gunsmithing—they serve as the gunsmithy at Gunsite Academy—Fink convinced me to give the concept a try and suggested I give it start with the Holosun HS507K X2.

Fink suggested this sight because he said it holds up well, is offered with either a green or red dot, comes with three reticle options and has an integrated rear sight. Of course, durability is important and so is being able to choose a reticle/dot you like. But the integrated rear sight means this sight simplifies mounting and the need to work around or with a higher conventional sight setup.

Springfield offers a pair of 10mms with red-dot sights already installed. Your choice: 5 inches or 6 inches of barrel.
Springfield 10mm 1911s with red dots equipped.

I’ve been shooting a SDS Imports Bantam Carry a good deal and have been very impressed with what it offers for the money. So, I sent an extra slide for that pistol to Fink’s for the Holosun HS507K X2 installation. The milling job they performed on the slide was impeccable and, given the slides unique contour, they managed to make the Holosun look like it belonged there.

Just as importantly, they reduced the height of the front sight to provide point of aim/point of impact match with the integral rear sight on the Holosun. I dabbed a bit of white paint on the face of the front sight to make it a bit easier to see, you know, just in case.

In a few short months, I’ve become very fond of this pistol and its modern sighting system. I can shoot it with the red dot, without corrected vision, just as well and a bit faster than I can shoot it with the conventional sights on the original slide. That gives me some peace of mind when it comes to a late-night gunfight that I hope I never have to have.

I’m still not ready to go to the reflex sight for everyday carry … but I’m continuing to investigate that possibility. One thing is for sure: My eyes—and yours—aren’t going to get any better.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the December 2021 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

More On Pistol Red Dots

First Look: Versacarry Mayhem Shoulder Holster

By
Adam Borisenko
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1

Versacarry has just released the Mayhem Shoulder Holster, the company’s second up-top carry option that now features molded polymer for improved retention.

Versacarry has been releasing a lot of holsters this year as a part of its new Versatac series. One of those new models is the Mayhem Shoulder Holster, and it’s only the second shoulder holster to ever be offered by the company. Versacarry's original model has been a popular choice since its release, but due to its leather construction, it’s a more universal holster in design. Offered in three holster sizes, each size is advertised as being compatible with a wide range of pistols. While these guns may fit just fine, they’re mostly secured by the retention strap. The new Mayhem Shoulder Holster may be compatible with a much smaller list of pistols, but it makes up for it with greatly improved retention.

Versacarry-Mayhem-shoulder-holster-feature-1

The enhanced retention capabilities are provided by the custom-molded polymer front of the holster. Fit specifically for each model of gun that the Mayhem Shoulder Holster is offered for, it can hold its cargo much more securely than what is possible for leather. The holster’s retention is adjustable and can be tuned to match the user’s desired draw strength, and the dual magazine holders found on the opposite side are made from custom-molded polymer and have adjustable retention as well.

Versacarry-Mayhem-Mag-Pouches

The Mayhem Shoulder Holster is offered for some of the most popular carry pistols currently on the market, including the Glock 19 and 43, the Sig P320 and P365, the Springfield Hellcat and XDM, the Taurus G3C and GX4 as well as the HK VP9SK, Ruger Max 9, S&W M&P Shield, Walther PDP and Kimber Mako. Regardless of the model selected, the design of the Mayhem makes it inherently compatible with optics. The open-bottomed nature of the holsters makes them compatible with threaded barrels as well.

Versacarry-Mayhem-Shoulder-holster

The cherry on top is that the Mayhem Shoulder Holster’s MSRP is set at $154.99, making it significantly less expensive than Versacarry’s original model. It’s currently only offered in right-handed configurations and a black finish, but the holster is available now.

For more information, please visit versacarry.com.

More On Shoulder Holsters And CCW:

Critical Carry Theory

By
Richard A. Mann
-
4

Simplifying some of the more complicated aspects of carrying a concealed handgun.

The carrying of concealed handguns is becoming more prevalent. Even with a push for more stringent gun control by politicians, we’re seeing more and more support for concealed handgun carry by citizens and state governments. Currently, 21 of 50 states have Constitutional Carry, meaning that the concealed carry of a firearm is allowed without a permit. This also means there are now a lot of folks who can conceal carry legally who may have no training at all.

I do not believe in government-mandated firearms training. I do believe anyone intent on carrying a firearm for personal protection should attempt to—on their own accord—obtain as much training as possible. The problem is that basic and more complex instruction on concealed carry and self-defense aren’t provided free of charge. This means those who’ve realized they’re their own first responder must pay for training, buy videos or turn to periodicals like Gun Digest for their education.

Of course, a full education on concealed carry can’t be presented in one training class, video, article or even in one or several books, of which there are many (I even wrote one of them). What can be provided in an article such as this is a critical look and maybe a simplified overview of some of the most important aspects of carrying a concealed handgun for personal protection.

Concealed-Handgun-feature

Safety Concerns Simplified

Firearms aren’t dangerous. They don’t mysteriously go “bang” and injure or kill. Humans are dangerous. They’ve committed atrocious acts throughout history and frequently do foolish things with firearms. An internet search will reveal anywhere from four to a dozen firearm safety rules. Jeff Cooper gave us the four most popular firearms safety rules. But, with all due respect, firearms safety isn’t that complicated.

In fact, it could be simplified with one rule: Never allow a firearm to point at anything you don’t want to put a bullet through or destroy. Learn all the rules and strictly follow them, but if you adhere to this one rule, your firearms accidents will only be loud noises.

Handgun Choice

The topic of handgun choice is one of the most argued and debated topics regarding self-defense, mostly because modern humans are driven by gear as opposed to skill or application. As with gun safety, handgun choice can be simplified: You should choose the most reliable and most powerful handgun you can comfortably carry concealed, and that you can shoot with speed and accuracy.

HK45
What’s the best defensive handgun? The answer will be different for everyone.

Notice I didn’t name a particular handgun or cartridge. This is because the most important aspect of a handgun that’ll be carried for personal protection isn’t its type, cost, caliber or potential interaction with a threat. The most important aspect is its interface with the user. A Smith & Wesson 44 Magnum would be ideal for shooting someone who is intent on killing you. However, most humans cannot easily conceal a revolver that large or deal with recoil that intense.

When it comes to the selection of a handgun, there’s an unlimited collection of variables to consider. What kind of handgun will your body type and usual dress allow you to conceal? What type of handgun does your strength allow you to manipulate? How much recoil can you tolerate? What type of handgun can you grip comfortably? How good are your eyes; do you need big bold sights or a reflex sight? The list could go on an on. Find what’s right for you; there’s no best answer for everyone.

Carry Method(s)

There are a variety of ways a handgun can be carried concealed. Though strong side, inside the waistband (IWB) carry is the most popular, it’s not best for everyone. Neither is ankle carry, pocket carry or the use of a shoulder holster. You see, not only do humans come in all different sizes, but they also circulate in all sorts of social settings. To further complicate choices, few humans exist in only a single environment. You may wear a suit and tie at work but spend your nonworking hours in shorts and a T-shirt.

concealed-handgun-appendix-carry
This concealed carrier prefers appendix carry and is exercising good trigger discipline. All should exercise trigger discipline, but appendix carry isn’t for everyone.

Varied public interactions and lifestyles demand different carry methods. They can also mandate different firearms. If you’re a runner, you won’t be able to comfortably conceal a Glock 17 during your course through the park. When you’re vacationing in 100-plus-degree temperatures, your shoulder holster for that 5-inch 1911 won’t work. For me, I’ve found I can conceal a Browning Hi Power or Wilson Combat EDC X9 in and IWB holster almost year-round here in West Virginia. However, there’s times when I need a much smaller gun carried elsewhere. There’s no best all the time answer for everyone.

Concealed-Handgun-ankle-holster
What’s the best location for carrying a concealed handgun? That depends on a lot of things, and the answer isn’t the same for everyone.

Accessories

I’ve read some gun writers who insist you carry a handgun with two extra reloads, pepper spray, an impact weapon, a fighting knife and even restraint devices everywhere you go. I get it, you need to be prepared. However, some logic and common sense needs to apply as well. You don’t have a fire extinguisher in every room, and you only carry one spare in your car as opposed to four. If you want to carry all that stuff every day, go for it. While you’re at it, maybe you can find a used Sherman tank to drive around as well.

I’ve been in locations where I felt a fully loaded Batman belt wouldn’t have supported enough gear to keep me safe. I’ve found that the best way to avoid that feeling is to avoid bad locations. If your lifestyle demands you frequent bad locations, equip yourself accordingly or maybe reconsider your life choices. Take it from someone who wore a police duty belt for many years; most humans can’t comfortably and normally live their lives carrying around that much stuff. The tools you carry for protection must dovetail into your lifestyle. Be reasonable in your choices, and practice with what you carry, from where you’ll carry it. 

Skill Level

For those who conceal carry, skill level varies considerably. Not just with shooting, but with firearms manipulation as well. What most want to know is how proficient they need to be to successfully defend themselves from a murderous attack. The only acceptable answer to that question is that you can’t be good enough. This is because you have no idea what the specifics of a potential life-threatening situation will be. From a training standpoint your only logical approach is to attempt to always improve at every aspect of concealed carry, personal protection and self-defense.

Richard-Mann-drawing
Concealed carry simplified: Choose the most reliable and most powerful handgun you can comfortably carry concealed, and that you can shoot with speed and accuracy.

I recently read on social media where a firearms trainer/gun writer suggested practicing reloading drills was a waste of time because most self-defense shootings are sorted out well before a magazine or cylinder of ammunition has been expended. Well, that’s a ridiculous way to determine your training. Though it varies greatly depending on several factors, by that same logic, you don’t need to carry because the chance of becoming a victim of a violent crime is so small.

You need to be able to draw your handgun from concealment fast and efficiently. You need to be able to place shots with speed and accuracy out to about 15 yards. You need to be able to manipulate your handgun so you can effectively reload, clear stoppages and keep it in the fight. You need to learn to exploit cover and concealment while doing all those things. And you need to continually work on being able to do all these things better.  

CCW-shoulder-holster
How about a shoulder holster? Sure, they’re great, but they require a jacket or cover garment at all times.

Justification

Finally, we get to the most critical aspect of the use of force in a self-defense situation: justification. What will justify your use of a firearm to stop an attack? The truth is that neither I, you nor anyone else knows the answer. Justification is something for a jury of your peers to determine; it’s not determined by a checklist guaranteeing your freedom from incarceration or civil liability.

Oddly, for a question so complex, the answer is quite simple. And while it doesn’t guarantee anything, it provides you some logical guidance. Your freedom will depend on the perception of the jury based on the evidence presented. By the same token, your actions must depend on your perception of the situation as it unfolds. You won’t have time to consider what the jury will perceive; you must, in a moment, determine that shooting is the only way you can reasonably escape death or grave bodily harm. Even if that’s your perception—and an undeniable fact—you may still be found guilty of manslaughter or homicide. However, short of that perception on your part, lethal force can’t be justified.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the 2021 Buyer's Guide special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

For more information on concealed carry holsters check out:

.22-250 Vs .223: Is Extra Velocity Worth Extra Money?

By
Sam Hoober
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3

The debate between .22-250 versus .223 Remington boils down to velocity and price. Do your shooting needs justify the increased cost?

The .223 Remington and .22-250 Remington are both small, light and very fast. Both are also very popular, but one much more than the other. So, if you find yourself deliberating between .22-250 versus .223, the real question is whether the increased velocity and performance of the former outweigh the affordability and abundance of the latter.

22-250-vs-223-feature
The two 55-grain soft-point loads from PPU that provided the data for this article. .22-250 on the left and .223 on the right.

.22-250 And .223 Ballistics

On average, a typical .22-250 cartridge will launch its projectile 300 to 500 feet per second faster than a .223/5.56mm with about the same increase of energy at the muzzle.

For instance, Winchester Super-X 55-grain soft-point load in .22-250 has an advertised velocity of 3,680 fps and energy of 1,654 foot-pounds. By contrast, the Super-X .223 55-grain soft-point load has advertised figures of 3,240 fps and 1,282 foot-pounds of energy. 

Bear in mind that other loads may have a wider or narrower disparity between the two cartridge types, but the Winchester Super-X data represents an average delta.

22-250-vs-223-trajectory-chart
Trajectory graph for .22-250 vs. .223 Remington from shooterscalculator.com. Each load's data used to calculate this can be found on their respective tables below.

When comparing the trajectories of these two 55-grain loads, we start to see what effect the increased velocity truly has on performance. As the above Shooter’s Calculator trajectory chart shows, .22-250 starts dropping later than .223 and does so less dramatically. The data tables shown below demonstrate that .22-250 is less influenced by wind and reaches its target in less time than .223 as well.

223-Remington-Shooters-Calculator-table
.223 Remington trajectory chart from shooterscalculator.com.

At 600 yards, .223 has dropped a dramatic 33 inches more in elevation than .22-250 and shifted an extra 13 inches of windage as well. While the .223 is transonic by 600 yards, .22-250 doesn't go transonic until about 650 yards.

22-250-Shooters-Calculator-Table
.22-250 Remington trajectory chart from shooterscalculator.com.

Bear in mind, factory velocities are more art than science. Test barrels are typically longer than factory rifle barrels–often 24 to 26 inches. Most factory rifles are 22 to 24 inches for bolt-action rifles. The typical .223 rifle sold today is an AR-15 with a 16-inch barrel.

With this in mind, it makes the average difference between the two cartridges even greater. Unless your .223 rifle has a barrel as long as that of your .22-250, expect the disparity in velocity to be even more extreme.

So…a little extra velocity, a little more energy and a little less drop at distance. That's certainly something…but that also begs the question of how much that matters in the real world.

After all, 9mm is considerably slower at the muzzle and has considerably less muzzle energy than .357 Magnum, but the reality is both are about equally effective in gun fights. It’s good marksmanship, not caliber, that determines who’s left standing.

So, when it comes to.22-250 versus .223, how much do the differences matter in the real world?

.22-250 Vs. .223 For Varmints

While .223 is a more than credible varmint cartridge, the .22-250 (the artist formerly known as .224 Varmint) is considered one of the finest varmint cartridges available. The velocity (which can top 4,000 fps in some loads) with very mild recoil and modest drop out to 300 yards speaks for itself.

The .22-250 is also very well-regarded for coyotes and other small to middling predators for the same reasons. When it comes to making good hits on small targets, every advantage helps, and .223 drops farther, drops sooner and gets pushed by even mild wind more than .22-250.

The author barely pulled the rifle off his shoulder in Wyoming with nearly unlimited targets of opportunity and plenty of Prairie Enemy ammunition at hand.
Sierra makes the appropriately-named “Prairie Enemy” flavor of .22-250. Here it's being used on some Wyoming varmints to great effect.

That's why .22-250 has been prized as a varmint cartridge in the western states for decades and continues to be.

If you have a rather large property with livestock, a ranch rifle in .223 may not have the same legs as .22-250 rifle depending on how far the back of the pasture is from the farmhouse.

About the only advantage that .223 brings to the table in varmint or predator hunting is that it’s cheaper, more abundant and can be fired out of common AR-15s.

.22-250 Vs. .223 For Medium Game

Here's a hot take for you.

The .22-250 is better for hunting on paper due to the extra zip on the bullet. Realistically, shot opportunities in most states that allow game hunting with sub-.24-caliber guns are usually close enough for it to not matter.

A good bullet loaded to .223 velocity and accurately placed (a key concept there) is going to be just as effective as a good bullet loaded to .22-250 velocities and placed just as well.

If you're only shooting 100 yards across a beanfield, frankly, the extra few hundred feet per second isn't going to make so great a difference to a whitetail or hog that it matters. Both will work. If you picked a good bullet and do your job as a marksman…it doesn't matter.

The places where it might matter won't let you hunt with a .22-250 or a .223, so it's a moot point.

.22-250 Vs. .223…For Defense?

About the only valid argument for using .22-250 over .223 as a defensive cartridge is its more reliable fragmentation at farther distances.

Even when calculated using velocities typical of a 24-inch barrel, a 55-grain .223 load (i.e., the same bullet used in M193) drops below the fragmentation threshold very quickly. The reliable fragmentation threshold for M193 is generally accepted to be about 2,700 feet per second, and .223 starts dropping below that at barely beyond 100 yards. Compare this to .22-250 which doesn’t dip below the threshold until about 200 yards.

556-M193-Fragmentation
This illustration shows the typical effects of a 5.56 NATO M193 projectile in soft tissue when fragmentation is achieved. Image Source: Wikipedia.

Despite this shortcoming, there’s virtually no realistic defensive scenario where one would have to shoot beyond 200 yards, meaning there’s no real practical advantage to using .22-250 for this purpose.

So, when it comes to anything defense-oriented, stick to a normal AR-15 in .223. While .22-250 ARs exist as well, it doesn’t change the fact that the ammo, magazines and guns themselves are less common and more expensive. Sticking with .223 will enable you to practice more often for less money, and good training is worth a lot more in the field than slightly better ballistics.

When And Where .22-250 Is Really Worth It

The .22-250 cartridge shines as a varmint and predator cartridge that is useful and effective at longer ranges than most other varmint cartridges. That's what it was more or less invented for and that's where it shines the most.

It can be used for hunting bigger game too, and does make a good caliber choice for a youth hunter in areas that legally and practically allow for it. But the same can be said for .243, .25-06, .257 Roberts and a slew of other calibers as well.

Ultimately, the AR-15 looms over any small caliber cartridge. It’s the 600-pound gorilla in the room and it needs acknowledging.

Unless you need to punch prairie dogs or cull coyotes at 300 to 400 yards, you're going to get a lot more out of .223 than .22-250. The guns are cheaper. There are more models to choose from. The ammo is cheaper. The magazines are cheaper. There is more aftermarket support.

To get a feel for just how much cheaper .223 is than .22-250, take a gander at the two cartridges on AmmoSeek. At the time of writing, it shows that the cheapest .22-250 ammo of any kind for sale online is from PPU at about $1.35 per round. The cheapest .223 from the same manufacturer is about 55 cents per round. That gives you almost three trigger pulls of .223 for every one of .22-250, and there's even cheaper .223 available than that.

Prairie Enemy 5
Unless you plan on taking on a lot of critters at extreme ranges, a setup like this is probably overkill.

For most shooters who purely use their small-bore centerfire rifles to ring steel, punch holes in paper and maybe be kept handy in case of an emergency, then sticking with .223 is the smartest choice. If you do shoot at prairie dogs or coyotes at longer ranges, then .22-250 may very well be worth considering instead.

Ultimately, the .22-250 is “better” than the .223 at pushing the same bullet faster, but there are only so many instances where that really matters. For most people, a .223 is simply the more practical choice.

Raise Your Ammo IQ:

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