Finding time to maintain shooting fundamentals can be a challenge, but the Blowback Laser Trainer provides a realistic solution.
Basics about the Blowback Laser Trainer:
Laser trainers have evolved a lot recently and can help with basic marksmanship.
The Blowback Trainer has a similar weight and feel to a Glock 19.
The trigger functions much like a two-stage trigger, with a long take up and clean break.
The mag drops out and houses a CO2 cartridge, which is used to simulate recoil.
The Blowback Trainer comes with a laser-sensitive target.
While no replacement for range time, it serves as a good way to fill training gaps.
I was at my desk on a random Tuesday afternoon in mid-January when it hit me: I hadn’t been to the range for nearly 3 weeks. Granted, that’s not long for some and a very long time for others — and I’ve certainly had longer stints between pulling some triggers at the range — but it bothered me more than usual this time.
I was in the middle of editing an article about being fully prepared (it’s actually printed in this issue beginning on page 36) as a gun enthusiast who carries concealed. Although it’s near impossible to discuss the concept of “being prepared” or having a defensive strategy without talking about trigger time, the article focuses just as heavily on the other equally important facets of preparation — physical, mental and legal.
On that particular afternoon, that article got me thinking just how difficult it can be to train properly. Really think about that for a moment. If you’re training for a marathon (not that I’d ever recommend that), putting a treadmill in the basement or simply lacing up and hitting the road out front of the house is easily attained. Getting into woodworking? Put a lathe and a table saw in the garage and you can make dust to your heart’s content.
See where I’m going with this? Having chosen a lifestyle dedicated to firearms proficiency, it’s not always easy to practice — in any facet. Unless your backyard is measured in acres instead of feet, the neighbors can get a little jumpy at the sound of gunfire. And for most of us, the ol’ ball and chain would frown at the installation of an indoor range in the basement where the treadmill used to be.
Another editor on the Gun Digest staff and I were participating in some water-cooler-style whining about these and other range withdrawals, and he asked me if I’d spent any time with the Blowback Laser Trainer.
Negative.
The Blowback Solution
Laser-training pistols have evolved dramatically as of recent, and although every product in that category is far from the real thing, you can train and maintain your basic marksmanship principles such as sight alignment and trigger pull quite effectively. And because there’s minimal (if any) muzzle report and no projectiles being launched down range, no down range is needed.
Here’s the problem: You don’t need to be the head cashier at Bass Pro Shops to know that recoil plays a dramatic effect on, well … everything we train around. Yes, you can argue that lack of recoil is exactly why many train with a .22 LR, but that doesn’t solve the range problem. And most laser trainers have no recoil. That’s right — most.
To aid in alleviating range withdrawals, I got my hands on the Blowback Laser Trainer system as recommended. I figured it couldn’t hurt, and it surely had to be less than trying to convince the Mrs. that a basement range was mandatory.
Here’s the skinny:
The Blowback pistol (known formally as the Blowback Laser Trainer) has a similar weight and overall feel to that of a Glock 19, though it’s pretty non-denominational with a metal actuating slide and polymer grip. The muzzle brandishes the bright orange designation of a training gun. The trigger is interesting, in that it functions much like a two-stage trigger with a very long-take-up and then a clean break. It pulls a bit hard, but it is one of the better trigger’s I’ve tickled on a training pistol.
Here’s where things get interesting: The mag drops out and is actually the housing unit for a standard, tubular CO2 cartridge. It’s also home to the battery that powers the laser — but I’ll get to that in a minute.
Upon firing, the Blowback Laser Trainer pistol releases a CO2-powered blowback, cycling the slide like any live-fire semi-auto pistol and simulating felt recoil. Simultaneously, a laser mounted just under the bore is activated, to visually indicate the hit location. It’s pretty damn cool.
The Doorknob Test
For the next few weeks, I snuck around the house (having a home office does have its benefits), assaulting every doorknob and receptacle plate from the basement mechanical room to the upper-level master bedroom closet. I even had time to work in a Labrador hunt or two, though he no-doubt thought I had lost my mind. And, an early delivery by the mailman one morning led to a very random conversation that culminated with me learning that he’s a Sig connoisseur. Who knew?
Confession: I was quite skeptical about the Blowback Laser Trainer system, but then again, I’m skeptical about absolutely everything. But the Blowback surprised me.
Although the recoil isn’t overly significant — I’d put it on parallel with a light 9mm target round — it makes a marked difference in how I trained with that laser pistol versus other stagnant laser pistols without any sort of recoil or report. Upon firing, you receive the audible burst of the CO2 dispersion in addition to the metal racking of the slide functioning during blowback, which brings the entire system that much closer to realism.
The sights are wide and prominent for quick target acquisition, though a little nail polish — my wife’s nail polish; I don’t own any — would go a long way on both the front post and the rear U-notch. It’s a simple home fix, but I would like to see that from the manufacturer.
On average, I was getting 47 trigger pulls from a single CO2 cartridge, which is very reasonable given the amount of inertia it takes to drive the slide. Remember: It’s for the weight and feel of a “real” gun overall, including the slide. CO2 canisters are not hard to come by, and Blowback sells a 20-count box of them on their website for $20.
The CO2 canisters seat easily into the magazine through the bottom, and they’re installed/removed via a large Allen bolt. The process is a bit slow and I would love to see a Gen2 with a “fast change” option for swapping the CO2 canisters, but this certainly doesn’t detract a bit from the overall effectiveness of the Blowback Laser Trainer system.
Blowback also makes a Laser Trainer Target, which features two target faces that light up and report a “ping” sound when hit, and it features a timed and a standard score mode. It’s a great addition to the Blowback pistol, and it sees daily action on the shelf across the room from my desk … namely whenever I have writer’s block. Still, I prefer slinking around the house and preying on unsuspecting inanimate objects, but that’s just the hunter in me.
Can the Blowback Laser Trainer replace range or simulation time with live ammo? Hell no. And it’s not designed for that. However, it does fill in the gaps between trips to the range rather nicely.
Blowback Laser Trainer Pistol Specs Height: 5.5 inches Width: 1.18 inches Length: 8 inches Weight: 28.5 ounces Cost: $450 Laser Trainer / $665 Laser Training System with Target
Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the 2018 Concealed Carry issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Understanding the difference between a $25 and a $300 EDC knife.
Top 10 things to consider when buying an EDC knife:
Overall material quality
Top-quality blade steel
Maker/manufacturer and customer service
Application
Price point
Type of lock mechanism
Design for use
Ergonomics
Size and weight
Ease of carry
Gun and knife enthusiasts know it to be true: A person can have a personal connection to an inanimate object, one that cuts or shoots, and particularly if it’s carried every day.
The Brad Southard “Downing” LinerLock folder, showcases marbled carbon fiber handle scales, titanium liners, a 2.125-inch blade and a pocket clip.
Getting ready for work in the morning, you grab your wallet, keys, phone and everyday carry (EDC) piece. Gun guys can tell a high-quality carry piece from trash and what works best for them, what they feel comfortable shooting, how it feels in their hands, which model, caliber and configuration suits their purposes, as well as what they’re most comfortable carrying.
Maybe that’s the key — what is comfortable, what feels right, like a good pair of jeans, a favorite T-shirt or a jacket that hangs just right. And all those things are personal items, familiar and comfortable. They are worn because they fit.
It might not always seem so obvious with knives, and price ranges for knives vary considerably. So how do you get the best everyday carry knife for your money? Will a $25 knife from a big box store suffice? Is there such a thing as a high-quality $25 knife, or does it become necessary to spend $100, $500 or $1,000 for a blade?
I guess you’d have to ask a knife guy — and you’re in luck. There happens to be as many knife enthusiasts as there are tactical knives, fixed-blade hunters and assisted opening folders with thumb studs, pocket clips and locking liners. There are also experts in the field, those willing to assist with choosing the right everyday carry folder or fixed blade for you.
Choosing The Blade For You
“Directing a customer to an EDC knife is somewhat like pointing them toward an everyday car,” says Mike Dye of New Graham Knives in Bluefield, Virginia. “Some think a base economy model suits them well, whereas others want a high-end luxury model. “Obviously, a good mid- or high-end blade steel is paramount,” Dye continued. “And the feel of the knife in the hand — it must fit the user. Different handle materials can make a world of difference in the feel of the knife. Micarta, G-10, smooth or worked titanium, stainless-steel, bone and stag — these choices are of a personal nature.”
Though Dye says everyone likes something different, there are keys to finding the right everyday carry knife. One tip, he notes, is to choose a knife that’s neither too small for the tasks it might encounter on an average day, nor one that’s too large to carry daily.
Matt Salazar, store manager for House of Blades, agrees, and he even has a suggestion as to blade length, saying a 3- to 3.75-inch blade is ideal for an EDC knife. He mentions modern blade steels, such as CPM S35VN or M390, as those that are more than adequate for everyday cutting tasks.
Kershaw makes great knives in every price point. The entire lengths of the flipper folders are ergonomic and flowing, including the blue-anodized handles.
“Stick with a good, high-quality brand that has a track record of great customer service,” Salazar recommends. “G-10 and aluminum are great options as far as handle material goes, although titanium and carbon fiber are widely available if you want something a little more high-end.”
High End Or Affordable?
Dye says a $25 knife might be the perfect choice for a farmer, miner or auto mechanic who uses the knife for any task that comes up. “If broken or lost,” he states, “it’s easier to repurchase a $25 knife than it is a more expensive piece. For others who are less likely to overwork or ask a knife to do chores it’s not designed to do, a higher-end model with ‘prestige’ might be in order.”
“As for a high-quality $25 knife … ,” Dye continued, “yeah, they’re out there. Over 40 years ago, when I started selling pocket knives, the China-Made knives were a joke. That’s not the case today. Some factories in China are producing amazingly high-quality knives at popular prices.”
Dye says such companies as Kershaw and Spyderco (specifically in its Byrd line) market knives manufactured in China with great success. “Ontario and ESEE have great EDCs at a reasonable price,” he notes, “and they offer support for warranty issues.” When tasked with helping someone find the right EDC knife, Salazar always poses the question, “How long do you want the knife to last?”
“In my opinion,” Salazar said, “you’re going to be really hard-pressed to find a high-quality knife for $25. I will say that Kershaw makes great knives in every price point, but I’d also say that $75-$100 would get you an excellent EDC knife that should last you many years with proper use. You can certainly spend more if your budget will allow.”
Many steels in lower-end knives will not retain a sharpened edge for as long as high-quality blade steels, which means more frequent sharpening and a shorter life expectancy for a knife.
“Steel quality, in general, would be the biggest drop-off in opting for a lower-end knife,” Salazar explained. “Inferior edge retention is likely the most significant downfall when purchasing a budget knife. After all, it’s a cutting tool.”
The Zero Tolerance Sinkevich Frame Lock Flipper boasts a carbon fiber front handle scale with a titanium rear scale and a 3.25-inch CPM S35-VN blade that opens smoothly on a KVT ball-bearing system. The knife weighs 2.7 ounces.
High-dollar production knives, such as those available from Chris Reeve Knives, Hinderer Knives and Zero Tolerance, exhibit high-quality craftsmanship, better steel options and stricter quality control. “Look for solid lockup if it’s a locking folder, smooth action and overall quality construction,” Salazar recommended.
“Generally, when the customer has tired of the off-brands and low-end offerings at the big box stores, they come to me asking for a high-quality knife,” Dye added. “That said, most of our walk-in folks have a ceiling of around $50-$100, and there are dozens of excellent choices in that range.”
Tangible advantages to higher-end knives include titanium versus pot-metal knife frames, and handle materials such as Micarta, carbon fiber and natural bone versus molded and crude plastic grips.
“Fit and finish on higher-end knives are rightly expected to be superior,” Dye stated. “A customer will have a good experience with a knife that sharpens easily, cuts well and retains an edge. With high-end EDCs, you start to get into higher-quality frame materials, better steels with superior heat treating, and locking mechanisms that hold greater tolerances.”
“If possible, handle the knife before purchasing it,” he suggested. “Look for lack of blade play on folders, both horizontally and vertically, and examine lockup. Look at fit and finish. Well-made knives at any price will show well in those areas.”
This Enrique Pena handmade “Zulu” frame-lock folder sports a 3-inch blade (an ideal size for an EDC knife) and jigged titanium handle scales.
In conclusion, Dye said, “I tend to steer customers away from fancy opening mechanisms, unorthodox locking mechanisms and knives that have obvious marketing gimmicks associated with them.”
Evaluating Knife Properties
Stainless-steel, as opposed to high-carbon blade steel, is a consideration for Julie Maguire and Ryan Thompson of Arizona Custom Knives.
“In order to be an EDC candidate, a knife should have a high-quality stainless blade,” Maguire said. There are more stainless-steels to choose from today than ever before. Do your research and choose the one that fits your cutting needs,” “Finding a knife with durable handle materials is also important,” Thompson added. “Titanium, G-10, Micarta and carbon fiber are all great options that hold up well in various conditions.”
Weight of the knife should also be a consideration in an EDC knife, according to Thompson and Maguire. “If a piece is too heavy, you will be constantly reminded of it as you go through your daily activities,” Thompson said. “A great EDC knife is one you forget about until you need it!”
“And the same applies for size,” he adds. “Try to choose a knife that’s just large enough to handle the cutting needs you’ll encounter in a normal day. Carrying a knife that’s larger than needed can become cumbersome and frustrating.”
When asked for the No. 1 thing to consider when deciding between a $25 and $300 knife, Thompson answered, “Quality, plain and simple — if you’re choosing to spend $300 on an EDC knife, you should expect superior handle materials, blade steel and craftsmanship.”
“A customer would be unrealistic to expect the same level of quality in a $25 knife that one should get in a high-end production or custom knife,” Thompson says. “As an example, certain handle material can cost more than $25 in and of itself.”
The Spyderco Para Military 2 folder has G-10 handle scales and a 3.43-inch CPM S30V blade. It weighs 3.9 ounces and is available from NewGraham.com for $136.47.
Other signs of high-quality knives include excellent workmanship throughout and added features such as an IKBS (Ikoma-Korth Bearing System) on folding knives or custom-made sheaths to accompany high-quality EDC fixed blades, Maguire says.
Some qualities to look for, she adds, are blade centering between handle halves on folders, overall fit and finish, secure lockup on folders, smooth opening/closing action and comfortable overall knife ergonomics. Gimmicks to avoid on an EDC knife include less-practical opening mechanisms and locking devices.
“There are incredibly creative opening, closing and locking mechanisms that unfortunately don’t translate well to an EDC cutting tool,” Maguire explains. “In general, if a knife can’t be opened, closed or drawn from its sheath with one hand, it probably isn’t a great fit for an EDC.”
“Consider how often you hold an item in your hand and realize you need your knife to cut, peel, open or trim that same object,” she proposes.
Buy From A Reliable Source
Where a customer buys an EDC can be just as important as what they buy, Thompson said. He suggests researching a manufacturer’s track record when buying a production knife, or to educate yourself about a maker’s reputation when considering a custom knife.
Jordan Saldana, general manager of American Edge Corp., suggests customers receive a more personal experience when they “shop small.” “At American Edge, we always try to find the best knife for the customer based on what they will be using the knife for, as well as the price range that he or she falls under,” he explains.
Chris Reeve folders are consider quality knives with ergonomic designs, thick frames, solid locks and easy-opening, high-end steel.
“It’s hard to go to Walmart and receive the custom experience of going to a small business that specializes in knives,” Saldana added. “We take the stress of guesswork off customers by customizing the right choice of knife.” Saldana’s ideal EDC knife is lightweight, slim and compact, with a blade length between 2.5 and 3 inches. “You want something that’s capable of handling any task that you would find during your normal daily routine, but it also must be light and small enough where it isn’t burdensome in your pocket all day,” he said.
“You can get a decent knife at $25, but it will probably not last nearly as long as one that is more expensive,” Saldana continued. “I suggest purchasing an EDC knife for between $100 and $300. The quality at that price range should be great, and it will hold up. You’ll see more ultra-premium blade steels and handle materials, tight machining tolerances, and mechanisms and locks will be smoother to operate and solid.”A company with a good reputation stands behind its products and offers hand-fit and hand-assembled knives, Saldana explained.
As far as gimmicks on knives, he said, “A good rule of thumb is that if you can’t look at the knife and figure out how it operates, the mechanism is probably not user friendly.”
One thing is for certain: As knife designs, blade steels, materials and mechanisms improve, the perfect EDC will always be a moving target.
Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the 2018 Concealed Carry issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
The PepperBall is a non-lethal weapon system designed to incapacitate would-be attackers with a stinging projectile filled with a concentrated powder irritant.
Many of those who take their safety within the home seriously might have a handgun in a nightstand or a shotgun propped nearby for addressing threats. However, for those unfamiliar with or untrained with firearms, or for those not prepared to or unwilling to defend themselves with lethal force, a non-lethal response tool might be the ticket. And a great option that’s currently available is the PepperBall non-lethal weapon system.
At the crux of this system are a spherical projectile (typically filled with a concentrated powder irritant designed to incapacitate threats) and a launcher designed to propel it. One of the nice things about this, of course, as opposed to simple pepper spray, is that the risk of accidentally spraying yourself is dramatically reduced, as the ball is launched at decent speed to the target.
During the recent 2018 SHOT Show, Gun Digest Editor Luke Hartle was able to get a hands-on look at the PepperBall system. More specifically, he examines and tries out the “Life Light,” or Flashlauncher, which sends the projectiles downrange at around 300 feet per second — plenty fast to bust the PepperBall open and unleash its payload.
As an added bonus, the launcher, as its name suggests, comes equipped with a 180-lumen flashlight. A light is critical in any home defense scenario, and with this PepperBall launcher, it’s built right into the design.
It also incorporates a laser sight to assist the user with aiming. Just as a laser makes sense on a home defense firearm or carry gun, so too does it here.
Although it’s the powder irritant that most will be looking at with the PepperBall system, the manufacturer’s website also lists a host of other projectile options. These include various types of visible and non-visible marking rounds, a water-filled training round and a glass breaking projectile, among others.
For more information on this innovative non-lethal weapon system, check out the video above or visit the PepperBall website.
Next to your delicates, there’s nothing more personal than a holster. And like underwear, you pick the wrong one and it’s a real pain in the rear.
That’s the short and long of why there are so many dang makes, models, styles, designs and systems to secure your handgun to your person. Not every holster was meant to or will function optimally for every person. It’s a somewhat uncomfortable lesson armed citizens quickly learn; and in the process, it earns them a small legion of just-off Kydex and gunleather that junks up the back of a closet or utility drawer.
DeSantis Gunhide has either simplified this process or complicated it, depending on where you stand, with the introduction of two new holsters. Executed with the company’s eye to detail, the two rigs cover nearly every carry style short of pocket and ankle.
Osprey
Constructed from premium tan saddle leather, the Osprey has a classic holster look, configured for convenience and versatility. With slots that accommodate belts up to 1 ½ inches wide, the holster is designed for both inside- and outside-the-waistband carry. Additionally, when utilized IWB, the Osprey can cant to user preferences and is adjustable without tools. And a single screw gives a user complete control of the holster’s tension. The Osprey has a fairly affordable price tag, $69.99, and is compatible with medium and large autoloaders and is available for a number of popular makes and models, including:
Glock 19, 19 GEN 5, 23, 32, 43
SIG P250C, P320C, P938
Ruger LC9
S&W M&P Shield 9/40, M&P Shield M2.0 9/40
Springfield XDS 3.3″
Standard 1911 models 5″ FROM Colt, S&W, SIG Sauer, Ruger, Kimber, Springfield, and others
Kimber Micro 9mm
Infiltrator Air
Strictly an IWB holster, the Infiltrator Air is designed for the utmost comfort when it’s up close and personal. A backboard constructed of breathable synthetic material accomplishes this, molding to the body, while allowing airflow. Additionally, the material has wicking properties, pulling perspiration away from the skin, so the holster doesn’t create a personal swamp even on hot days. DeSantis’ hybrid holster features a precision-molded Kydex retention system, custom fit to specific makes and models. Retention is adjustable by tightening or loosening six screws that marry front to back. The holster attaches to a belt with adjustable C clips; however, J clips are available for the rig. Compared to many hybrids on the market today, the Infiltrator Air is competitively priced at $89.99 and is compatible with a wide spectrum of semi-automatic pistols and revolvers, including:
Glock 17, 17 GEN 5, 19, 19 GEN 5, 22, 23, 26, 27, 36, 42, 43
The means of propelling a projectile is an often-overlooked link in the ballistic chain. Whether you credit the Chinese — who had developed the substance earliest — or the works of Friar Roger Bacon, the use of gunpowder to launch a bullet changed the world forever. Black powder, that mixture of sulfur, saltpeter and charcoal, remained relatively unchanged until the mid-19th century, when nitric acid was put upon cellulose to produce nitrocellulose.
Three of the original IMR powders, released in the 1930s. They gave good accuracy then, as they do now, but the modern developments offer some advantages.
This substance was known as guncotton, and it was capable of producing pressures and velocities much greater than its black powder counterpart, and it took a bit to develop metallurgy that could withstand the pressures generated. Later, in 1887, Mr. Alfred Nobel invented Ballistite, which consisted of a mixture of nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and created a plasticized substance that was a stabile compound. This substance was something of a precursor to cordite, a British version introduced two years later.
Cordite was the chosen propellant for many of our classic cartridges. One of cordite’s little peculiarities was the fact that it was extremely sensitive to temperature fluctuation, and those cartridges that were developed in England and Continental Europe often saw dramatic pressure increases when brought to Africa and India. The heat of the tropics quickly brought out the flaws of cordite, from extraction troubles to cracked receivers, and this is why some of the huge cases like the .416 Rigby and the .470 Nitro Express came about. They simply needed that case volume to keep the pressures at an acceptable level.
Our modern era of smokeless powders has seen incredible advances in the science of propellants; these new developments have made the older cartridge designs even more effective, and they’re an important part of the excellent accuracy we are all enjoying today. It’s relatively simple: Accuracy is — taking the shooter’s effects out of the equation — a product of consistency, in cartridge, projectile and barrel.
The Silent Partner
We’re all pretty familiar with the quality of modern barrels, and most definitely with the fantastic bullets of the 21st century, but the powders have an equally important role. If you’re not a handloader, you might not have an opportunity to examine or experiment with the variations in powder performance, at least not in a method that is controllable.
IMR4350 has been faulted for its velocity variations as temperatures change, but it sure has served the author well in many different climates, in many different cartridges. Old is not dead, and IMR4350 will remain a staple.
If you handload your ammunition, you’ve more than likely seen how big a part that powder choice plays in the results of your handloaded ammunition. In either case, a deeper investigation is warranted in order to best understand how our ammunition works and how to arrive at the best results for your particular shooting situation.
There are three types of grain structure we need to be concerned with: flake, ball and stick. Flake powders are usually employed in handgun cartridges and shotshells, as they tend to have a fast burn rate that is optimal for both of those applications. Ball powders are good choices for rifle cartridges with a lesser case capacity, especially when using the longer-for-caliber bullets. Stick powder is extruded into thin, spaghetti-like sticks and then cut to a specific length. It’s stick powder that dominates the rifle cartridge market.
We owe much to the DuPont company, founded in America just after the turn of the 19th century, for the development of powders we’ve relied on for the past 80 years. Under the IMR, or Improved Military Rifle, brand, DuPont gave us the classic IMR 3031, IMR 4064 and IMR 4350 — all during the 1930s. These powders gave handloaders and wildcatters a means of expounding on the magnum cartridge idea, developing higher pressures and correlative velocities.
Alliant Reloder 16 gave great results in the author’s .318 Westley Richards, keeping the Standard Deviation on Velocity to single digits.
After the Second World War, Bruce Hodgdon — who learned that the U.S. government had burned huge amounts of surplus powder at the end of WWI — decided that he’d market surplus powder. The Hodgdon Powder Company sold kegs of 4895 — designed for the .30-06 but useful in many cartridges — and began a journey that continues to this day. While those early powder developments are still used by many today, there are many new offerings that have changed the game.
As a handloader, I use many different brands of powder, including Hodgdon, IMR, Winchester, Alliant, Norma and Vihtavuori. Some of the first accurate loads I ever developed are still in use and will more than likely remain so, based on the “if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it” theory, but I also enjoy experimenting with new powders in a constant effort to improve performance.
In the effort to enhance accuracy — something every shooter chases — powder engineers have made every effort to reduce the velocity variations produced by temperature fluctuation. It has been an accepted premise that ammunition would lose 1-2 fps for every Fahrenheit degree of change from the mean temperature of 68 degrees, which might not seem like much, but it’s a definite factor when hunting in extreme temperatures. It also might not dramatically affect trajectory at sane hunting ranges, but it can be a nagging problem for the long-range target shooters.
New-But-Proven Champions
Three of the four IMR Enduron powders, engineered for temperature insensitivity, as well as reducing copper fouling.
Hodgdon has been at the forefront of powder development, in both their Extreme line — which includes VARGET, H4831SC, and H322 — and in the IMR Enduron line (IMR is currently owned by Hodgdon), and both series of powders are designed to virtually negate the effects of temperature fluctuation. I’ve done a bit of work over the years with both of these lines of powders, and they’ve been true to the advertised claims.
When I handload my ammunition for African hunting, I do my best to test the ammo in the hottest conditions I can muster. I leave the cartridges and rifle in the summer sun to get them as warm as possible, and then test for pressure signs. If the area of Africa I’m hunting is cooler, then there are no pressure concerns, perhaps at worst a change of point of impact.
When I was heading to South Africa to hunt the first week of November, I knew things would be warm, but not as warm as I found out it would be. I had loaded a bunch of .300 Winchester Magnum with IMR 4451 — one of the quartet of Enduron powders — and found the accuracy pretty close to maximum. Temperatures during load development peaked at about 80 degrees, but our first full hunting day in South Africa rose to 112 degrees, and that’s hot enough to test the mettle of any powder. I’m happy to report that the Enduron powder functioned perfectly, giggling at the effects of the African blast furnace.
H335, one of Hodgdon’s spherical powders designed to run perfectly in the .223 Remington, saved the day for me when my Dad and I headed to Tanzania. Ol’ Grumpy Pants was bringing a Winchester Model 70 in .458 Winchester Magnum for Cape buffalo and wanted 500-grain bullets at 2,150 fps. I had some of the old A-Square Dead Tough softpoints and Monolithic Solids and went nuts trying to find a powder that would give me velocities anything close to what I wanted. Enter H335, a powder that took up the least amount of room yet delivered the goods in both the accuracy and velocity department. Three-shot groups measured an average of 1.5 MOA, and muzzle velocities ran at 2,120 fps. Mission accomplished.
Ramshot’s TAC saved the day with an older, finicky .300 Savage, bringing it quickly out of retirement.
A key part of accurate ammunition is a consistent muzzle velocity. The serious long-range shooters strive for a standard deviation on velocity in the single digits to ensure the most consistent performance. Hunting ammunition doesn’t necessarily need that same level of consistency, but it sure doesn’t hurt.
Sometimes, experimenting with new or different powders will yield some unexpected results in a rifle that will appear unsatisfactory. My buddy has a family heirloom: a Savage Model 99 in .300 Savage. That rifle, while equally handsome and sentimentally valuable, didn’t like any factory offerings; some groups were as large as 4 inches. Mike had given up on the rifle until I suggested we handload for it. The first attempts were fruitless. I grabbed a canister of Ramshot TAC powder, which has a burn rate perfect for the .300 Savage cartridge, and set to work. The first set of loads gave us 1.5-MOA groups, and after some tweaking, we got that rifle to print sub-MOA.
When my wife was preparing for her first safari, she knew she wanted to use her Legendary Arms Works Big Five rifle in .375 H&H Magnum. She trained with all sorts of ammunition, but we settled on a 235-grain Cutting Edge Raptor for the plains game species she was after. Experimenting with a few powders that I’d used in the three-seven-five before, I wasn’t getting what I wanted for Mama.
Once again, I tried some Norma 200 powder on a whim and was more than pleased with the results. Group size was 0.8 inch at 100 yards, and muzzle velocity was just shy of 2,800 fps. Had I stayed with the powders that work so well with the 300-grain bullets, I might have given up on the bullet and missed out on a great combination.
Pistol cartridges are equally benefitting from powder advancements. The Barnes XPB bullet is a good choice for those who hunt with a handgun, but it will definitely pose some different reloading challenges. They are long for caliber and take up a good amount of room in the case. Classic powders like Unique and Bullseye are still valid, but other choices such as AA No. 9 from Accurate Arms can make a huge difference in performance, especially with the monometals. Likewise, powders like Titegroup, CFE Pistol, IMR Unequal and Alliant’s Sport Pistol all deserve a worthy audition in your favorite handgun cartridges, where applicable.
Time-Proven Propellants
Now, with all these new developments, does that mean the old standbys are sent into obscurity? I don’t believe that’s the case at all.
Norma’s 200 powder gave some unlooked-for accuracy in the .375 H&H Magnum, using lighter bullets.
Good old Reloder 19 — a powder oft cursed for its mood swings correlative to the thermometer — has given me some very accurate results. The same can be said for IMR 4350. Alliant’s Reloder 15 is a neat little secret for so many of the big-bore cartridges I love, giving good velocities with what feels like an appreciable reduction in recoil. IMR 4064 has been with us for over 80 years, yet it still fuels a .308 Winchester, .22-250 Remington and .375 H&H perfectly. That said, if I know for certain that I’m headed into an extreme environment, be it hot or cold, I might take full advantage of one of the less volatile powders and develop an entirely new load.
Battling Variances
What about the variances in powder, from one lot to the next? Does it play a part in the accuracy equation? Absolutely.
I was invited to tour the Norma Precision ammunition plant in Sweden and got to see how the manufacturer’s African PH line of ammunition is put together. This ammunition line has a great reputation — my own Heym .404 will put three 450-grain Woodleigh softpoints from the Norma stuff into ¾-MOA — and I wanted to see what made it tick.
It turns out that the Norma African PH line is handloaded by a very talented man named Victor, and it’s part of that process to check the lot-to-lot variation in powder pressures and velocities. For example, the .470 Nitro Express ammunition needs to be at an even 2,150 fps in order to regulate properly in a double rifle. Each lot of powder is tested in a machine to verify that the tolerances are acceptable, and if not, an adjustment is made to rectify the variance.
Trust But Verify
I know — first hand — that all of the powder companies take every possible step to ensure that their products are the most consistent and repeatable that they produce, yet we handloaders need to be aware of the possible pitfalls, and the same theories explain why some factory ammunition will show variances from case to case. It’s better than it ever was, but still part of the bigger picture.
Should you change your favorite powder/bullet/cartridge combination? Well, that’s a personal decision, but I’m the type of hunter and handloader who likes to hedge his bets, always having a backup plan should we face the drought of 2013-2014. At the very least, you’ll enjoy the time spent with your handgun, shotgun or rifle while experimenting for a minimal investment.
Having good loads already developed for most of my rifles and handguns, I enjoy the sheer experimentation involved with new powders, adding to my library of loads. Either way, I feel that modern powder developments are as important as modern bullets or modern optics — they’ve made our lives as hunters and shooters much easier.
Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the December 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Improved accuracy can be as simple as a few scope adjustments to sharpen your view and relieve eye strain.
Some things to know about focus and your rifle’s scope:
Many riflescopes are improperly fitted to the shooter.
A simple adjustment almost always results in improved accuracy.
Ocular focus ensures the reticle is properly focused for your eye.
Properly adjusted, your eye won’t strain trying to focus on the reticle.
Parallax is where objects at different distances appear to change position when your head moves.
Many scopes have parallax adjustment knobs to place reticle and target on the same focal plane.
Most of my students have had one thing wrong with the setup of their rifles when they start a course (this includes military and police snipers, as well as recreational shooters). The improper setup has a direct impact on their ability to shoot as good as they should and, once we change it, there’s almost always an instant improvement.
This means that there’s a good chance you have this problem, too — and it just might be holding you back.
The common issue is not having the riflescope adjusted for the particular shooter. This doesn’t just apply to having the scope mounted in the correct position or the stock’s cheek piece (comb) adjusted to the proper height. The most common error I see is not properly adjusting the scope’s ocular focus to the shooter’s eye.
What Is Ocular Focus?
The ocular focus ensures that the reticle in the scope is properly focused for your eye. It’s typically adjusted by turning the adjustment ring closest to your eye; however, sometimes the entire ocular housing must be turned.
If your eye becomes fatigued, or if you have trouble keeping the reticle in focus while you’re shooting, this is likely a problem on your riflescope.
The best way to adjust the ocular focus is to have a friend help, but it can be accomplished on your own.
1. First, have your friend place a white sheet of paper halfway down the barrel (or, if you don’t have any friends, position your rifle near a light-colored wall a few feet in front of the muzzle).
2. Next, get on the rifle with your eyes closed and only open your shooting eye once you’re in a comfortable position. If you need to adjust your head’s position in order to see clearly through the scope, that’s a good clue that you need to adjust your scope’s mounting position or adjust your cheek rest.
3. Once you can see clearly through the scope, quickly glance (one or two seconds) at the reticle and then close your eye. Then, make a bold adjustment to your ocular focus and re-open your eye for another quick glance. Make a determination on whether the reticle’s image/focus is better or worse than last time. There’s no need to over-think this process or make an overall determination immediately. Better or worse is all we care about right now.
A quick glance is important — if you stare too long, then your eye will play a trick on you and work to focus the reticle’s image.
Keep making bold adjustments to your ocular focus in each direction until you have figured out where the best/crisp image of the reticle is.
4. Now that it’s adjusted properly, you’ll be able to shoot better because you’ll be able to clearly focus on the reticle and not strain. However, the ocular focus is only half of the “focus” battle.
Parallax/Target Focus
Your scope is now focused to your eye, but it’s not focused on the target. There is no perfect focus for the target because it changes with different target distances.
Many (most) hunting scopes don’t have an adjustment for target focus — you’ll still be better off for having adjusted your ocular focus properly. However, most higher-end hunting scopes and tactical-style scopes have a parallax/target focus knob that you should use whenever you shoot at a new distance.
What Is Parallax?
Parallax is the name of the phenomenon that makes objects at different distances appear to change position when you move your head. For an example, place a finger from each hand in front of your face at different distances and line them up with your eye. Now, move your head from side to side and notice how your fingers are no longer lined up. That is the effect of parallax.
In your scope, the target’s image is focused at one location within your scope. If that location is different than where your reticle is located, then you’ll notice parallax when you move your eye side-to-side. The goal is to get the target’s image and the reticle on the same focal plane so that they move together (as if one finger was directly behind the other).
The parallax knob (or target focus knob depending on what your scope’s manufacturer calls it) moves the location of the target’s image in your scope. You can use the distance markings on the parallax knob to get close, but the only way to check it for sure is to adjust the knob until the target’s image is clear.
Some scopes have an adjustable objective. This is not the same as adjustable parallax or target focus. Instead, it means that the objective housing (the lens facing the target) turns to adjust for target focus. It does the same thing as a side-focus knob, but I much prefer the knob on the side because it’s easier to adjust. Don’t specifically hunt for an adjustable objective scope — instead, look for one with an adjustable parallax or target focus (regardless of how that particular scope adjusts for it).
Once you’ve done this, you’ll have no parallax issues (which can make you miss with imperfect head position) and your reticle and target will be clear (without that sensation of having to focus on one or the other).
I’m going to make a bold claim: Properly adjusting these focus settings for your eye and the particular target you’re shooting will make you a better shooter.
This article originally appeared in the Winter 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
This is an old-style front sight, properly staked onto a 1911 slide. Done right, this won’t come off short of a hammer.
Iron sights on handguns remain a durable and cost-effective option. Check out these tips to adjust the iron sights on your fixed-sight pistol or revolver.
Sights come in three types; fixed, adjustable and optical. Fixed and adjustable sights are referred to generically as “iron” sights. Despite their name, fixed sights can still be adjusted, though they require filing or welding, and drifting with a hammer and copper punch, to adjust. Adjustable sights can be moved with just a small screwdriver, and you can easily make incremental changes. A lot of shooters wonder why, if the fixed sights are so hard to adjust, they should use them. The answer is this: Fixed sights are cheaper and more durable.
Adjust Iron Sights On A Fixed-Sight Revolver
There are two directions to adjust on a sight: Vertical and horizontal. Do not make vertical (up-down) adjustments until you have the revolver hitting on the centerline horizontally (left-right adjustments).
Adjusting the horizontal is done by turning the barrel fractionally in or out of the frame. When you turn the barrel slightly tighter into the frame, you will move the bullet strike to the right. When you slightly unscrew the barrel, you will be moving the bullet strike to the left.
Before you start, examine the top of the barrel where it joins the frame. You need to record exactly how the two fit together before you make any adjustment. If the barrel is a smooth round cylinder, take a permanent marking pen and draw a straight line from the barrel to frame. With a barrel that has a rib or grooves on the top, make a drawing of just where the rib or lines match up with the frame.
Take the cylinder out of the frame. Clamp the barrel vertically in a padded vise, or in barrel blocks in the vise. Secure a frame wrench firmly around the frame. Depending on which adjustment you need, right or left, use a wrench to tighten or loosen the barrel slightly.
The amount you will adjust the barrel is extremely small. Make your first adjustment so the mark you are using as an index on the barrel/frame alignment is moved no more than .010 inch. Take the revolver to the range and test fire it. Your group will be moved by the adjustment you have made. Use the difference between the unadjusted and adjusted groups to determine how much additional adjustment may be needed, or what fraction of the correction you need to undo.
For example, your bullets had been striking 6 inches to the right, and you loosened the barrel .010 inch. Now the bullets are only 2 inches to the right. A .010-inch adjustment corrected 2/3 of the error (4 of the 6 total inches). To correct the remaining 1/3, or 2 inches, you need to make another adjustment of .005 inch, or half the adjustment you already made. Setting up a simple proportion will help you calculate the adjustment with any set of numbers.
Vertical adjustment can be made only by filing the front sight to raise the bullets’ impact, or welding more steel to the sight to lower the impact.
Except when you change barrels, you will rarely have to adjust the horizontal impact. You may have to “tweak” the new barrel back and forth a couple of times until the sights are dead-on. Filing the front sight for vertical adjustment is common only on single-action Colt or Colt clone revolvers. On these, the barrel is often made with the front sight too tall. You file it to the correct height after adjusting horizontal impact. I have never had to adjust a Smith & Wesson barrel for vertical impact.
Adjust Iron Sights On A Fixed-Sight Semi-Auto Pistol
To make horizontal adjustments on most pistols, you move the rear sight. Use a brass or copper punch and a hammer, or an adjustment fixture. To move the bullet impact to the right, move the rear sight to the right. Move the sight to the left to move the bullet to the left. Many modern pistols will have a front sight that is installed in the slide by means of a dovetail. Just like the rear, the front sight is pressed into the dovetail and left centered on the slide.
If you have a pistol that strikes right or left of your aiming point, look first at the front sight as a check. Measure it. Is it centered? If it is, then you can proceed to make your corrections on the rear. If it is not, plot the front sight offset, and how it affects your problem. If you find that you have a pistol that hits to the right, and curiously enough your front sight is left of center, perhaps the front is more of your problem than the rear? Center the front sight, test-shoot again, and see what happens.
Unlike barrel turning, you can calculate the exact amount you have to move your pistol sight without trekking back and forth to the range. The ratio of the sight radius to the correction needed is the same as the ratio of the distance to the target and correction on the target. This is the same formula in Chapter 3, using a mill to adjust your sights. The sight correction divided by the sight radius equals the target error divided by the target distance.
For vertical adjustment, file the front sight to move the bullet impact up. Install a taller front sight to move the bullet impact down.
Glock makes vertical adjustment very easy by offering their rear sights in a range of heights. If you find that your Glock is off vertically, check the side of your rear sight and find the line or lines cast into the plastic. The lines indicate the height of the sight. When you write to Glock for a replacement, state which model Glock you have, how far off your pistol is at what distance, and what your current sight says on the side. If you plan to own several Glocks, you can order one sight of each height, and then swap them around as needed.
This article is an excerpt from Gunsmithing Pistols & Revolvers 4th Edition.
The first thing to do is buy from a reputable shop, one with a clear return policy. The best chance of buying a good used gun is from a shop with a gunsmith in residence. With a ‘smith on premises, you can be pretty sure every used gun in inventory went through his hands. And any you buy can be returned for an inspection to see if the problem you are encountering is real or caused by an outside force.
The process is simple: look, feel and listen. Look for things out of place; wear that is odd, or signs of abuse. Feel for the way it functions compared to a new model or a known-good used one. Listen to the noise of the springs, the clicks, the slide cycling. They’ll all tell you something.
And ask what the owner/merchant knows about its history, previous owners, performance, or reputation? Buying a competition gun can be good, and it can be bad. Was it the backup gun of a Grand Master that spent most of its time lounging in his range bag waiting its turn? Or was it the experimental subject of an aspiring gunsmith or competitive shooter? Be careful, ask, listen, and get the return policy in writing.
Etiquette Of Buying Used
There are a few things you have to know about buying a used firearm. First of all, remember that until you hand over the money, it is someone else’s firearm you’re handling. It is entirely within the performance parameters of many handguns to be dry-fired from now until the end of time and suffer no damage. However, some people don’t believe it, and will be very grumpy if you dry-fire their handgun. Ask before you dry-fire. If they refuse, then you have to either move on or do your pre-purchase due diligence without dry-firing.
Ask before you disassemble, as again, some people just don’t like having their handgun yanked apart. They may be cranky, and they may simply have had too many bad experiences with people who didn’t know what they were doing.
Properly done, negotiation and a resulting purchase is a mutually pleasurable social event, not a dental visit.
When buying a used firearm, look for signs of dropping. This dented barrel may not have harmed the crown, but it might have lead to the barrel being bent or the frame twisted. Look, check, and get a return guarantee if you can.
Buying A Used 1911
When you’re considering a used 1911, start with a good visual inspection. Has the exterior been abused? Hammer marks or rough file marks on the outside should make you wonder how careful the previous owner was with the inside. If the original blued surface is now gray from years of use and carry, but the owner never dropped it and fired it seldom, you have a great opportunity. The looks are likely to bring the price down, but mechanically it can be just fine. If it is a pistol used in competition, you might be able to find some answers by asking about its history with other competitors. Did the previous owner have a reputation of always shooting unreliable guns? Or were his pistols always reliable, just ugly?
But also be aware history, or rarity, might overwhelm the other factors. I was just looking at a nice 1911. It had most of its bluing. It had dents and dings and a mildly stained fingerprint on the slide. The wood grips were worn down past the checkering, where it had been exposed outside of the holster. Actually, it is worth the price of a small used car because it was made in 1912 and remains unmolested though honestly worn, and it came in a USGI holster issued with it in WWII. Age and rarity elevated the price far beyond the price-lowering variables of its condition.
After visual inspection, check operation. If you haven’t already done so, make sure the pistol is unloaded, and tell the clerk at the store you want to perform some safety checks. Cock the pistol and dry fire it. Was the trigger pull very light? A very light trigger pull will have to be made heavier to be safe and durable. Or was it very heavy? Did it feel as if it was crunching through several steps before it finished its job? A very heavy or gritty trigger pull will have to be made smoother and lighter.
Execute a “pencil test.” Cock the pistol and drop a pencil down the bore, eraser end first. Point the pistol straight up, and dry fire it. The pencil should be launched completely out of the pistol. If it isn’t, something is keeping the firing pin from its assigned duties.
You must perform a mechanical safety test. Cock the hammer again and push the thumb safety on. Holding the pistol in a firing grip, press the trigger a bit harder than you would to fire it. Seven or eight pounds of pressure is sufficient. Let go of the trigger, and push the thumb safety off. Now hold the pistol next to your ear and slowly draw the hammer back. You should not hear anything. If you hear a little “tink” when you draw back the hammer, the thumb safety is not engaging fully.
If you heard the “tink,” here’s what happened. When you pulled the trigger with the safety on, the sear moved a tiny amount until it came to a stop, bearing against the safety lug. It shouldn’t have moved at all. The hammer tension kept the sear from moving back into its start position when you pushed the safety off, leaving the sear partially bearing on the hammer hooks. When you held the pistol close to your ear and drew back the hammer, the tension on the sear was removed. The sear spring pushed the sear back in place, causing the “tink” you heard. If the hammer stayed cocked, the sear only moved a tiny amount. The fix is easy. What if you never got to the “tink?” If the hammer fell when the safety was pushed off, before you even tried to listen, the thumb safety fit is very bad and you will have to buy and fit a new safety. In the worst case, the hammer falls even when the safety is on. These also need a need thumb safety, and perhaps some other new parts inside as well. Considering the amount of work needed, and the possibility of other things being badly fit, you might just want to pass on this particular 1911.
Next test the grip safety. Cock the hammer and leave the thumb safety in the down position. Now, holding the frame so you do not depress the grip safety, pull the trigger. Release the trigger, and, now grasping the pistol so you do depress the grip safety, hold the pistol up to your ear again and draw the hammer slowly back. If you hear that “tink” again, the grip safety is barely engaging. Look at the grip safety. Because some competitive shooters don’t feel the need for one, they grind the tip of the grip safety off where it blocks the trigger. If this has been done to the 1911 you’re thinking of buying, you will need to have the tip welded back up, and fit it to the trigger. If the tip hasn’t already been ground off, or otherwise altered, you’re looking at an easy fix. It is probably just a simple misfit, which you can correct with careful peening.
Some “problems” are cosmetic. This crack in a 1911 has been the same size for over 10 years and 5,000 rounds. There isn’t any real need to weld it up and re-finish the frame.
The last test you need to perform is a hammer/sear engagement or hammer flick test. There’s a good way and a bad way to perform this test. In the caveman days, we would lock the slide open empty. Then we would release the hold-open lever and let the slide crash home on an empty chamber. This is more abuse than test, especially since it doesn’t fairly test the hammer sear engagement. Continued “testing” this way can actually do harm to your hammer and sear and abuses the barrel, link, and slide.
In the modern, improved “flick” test, you cock the hammer, grip the pistol so the grip safety is depressed, and hold down the thumb safety. With your other hand, flick the hammer back against the grip safety, and let the hammer go forward to sear engagement. This non-destructive test can be performed until your fingers bleed, and will not harm the sear and hammer hooks. If, however, during this test the hammer falls — even once — the hammer/sear engagement will require work. You cannot depend on this pistol to stay cocked when firing. The pistol may simply require re-stoning the engagement surfaces, or it may require a new sear, or both new sear and hammer. Until you look at the engagement through a magnifier, there is no way to tell.
Buying A Used Glock
What with every police department on the planet going to the Glock (or so it seems) there are large numbers of used Glocks for sale everywhere. Every wholesaler flyer I get has used Glocks listed, sometimes pages of them. So, you’re peering through the glass at your local gun shop or cruising a gun show, and you see a used Glock offered at a good price. What to look for?
First, give it a good visual external inspection. Look to see if there are any signs of abuse, neglect and/or experimentation. External abuse would be things like the corners of the slide being chewed up and or dented from being dropped. Dropping the slide when it is off the frame can bend the recoil spring retaining tab. Neglect would be rust (rare) or a cracked slide from too many hot reloads (even rarer). Experimentation would be something like the slide being machined to take some other sight system than factory, or milled for ports other than factory. The good news is that the cracked slide might be replaced by the factory for free or at little cost. The other cosmetic problems or experimentation done by previous owners are items that Glock will likely leave you on your own to cover. Don’t worry about what sights might be on it; sights are cheap and easily replaced. At the current pricing, an armorer’s cost for a new set of sights is only $5! You can get good replacements other than Glock polymer for around $20 to $30.
A scarred and chewed-up frame can be cleaned up, but Glock won’t be replacing it just because it got scraped along a curb during a fight. Glock will replace it, regardless of condition, if it is one of the E-series Glocks that were made from September 2001 through May 2002 that they deem needs replacing. If you aren’t sure, give Glock a call. One way to tell is the serial number of the frame. The E series will be marked (as an example) EAA123US. If the frame has been recalled and replaced, the slide and barrel will still have the original serial number while the frame will be marked “1EAA123US.” The “1” indicates replacement.
With the permission of the owner, cycle the slide and dry fire it. Try firing it without depressing the trigger safety. It should not fire. Try pulling the trigger normally and then hold it back and cycle the slide. Does the trigger return? If not, it may be due to a broken/bent trigger spring or a “trigger job” gone awry. The parts don’t cost much, so bargain the price down as much as you can but don’t expect the owner to budge much.
Disassemble and inspect the slide and barrel. Is the barrel clean? Un-marred? Look down the bore. Do you see dark rings? “Smoke rings” are bulges in the barrel from lodged bullets being shot free. A new barrel costs money. At the armorers cost, a Glock barrel runs $95 to $125, with compensated barrels running up to $140. Aftermarket match barrels can run up to $200. If the barrel is bulged, bargain hard; a replacement won’t be cheap.
Look at the slide, in the breech face area. Inspect the area around the firing pin slot. In a very high-mileage 9mm, fed many rounds of +P or +P+ ammo you may find the area around the firing pin slot eroded or even peened back. The erosion comes from blown primers jetting hot gasses back at and through the firing pin slot. In those, you should check the firing pin to make sure it is in good shape. The peening comes from the high-pressure setback of the primer. The wall between the breechface and the firing pin tunnel isn’t thick (it can’t be) and the repeated hammering from a steady diet of hot loads can peen it back. The Tenifer makes the slide hard, but the substrate isn’t hard. If the area is too hard, it may break. If it is too soft, it may peen.
If a Glock with a peened or eroded breechface still works fine (you won’t know until you test-fire it) then you can use it. But the drag on an empty case from the primer expanding into the bulge or erosion can create malfunctions. Glock may or may not replace the slide. If they do, and they charge you, it can get expensive. The old armorer’s manual listed slides and frames as parts that could be ordered. The new manual does not, so I cannot look up the expected price. You will know only after you ask Glock. Aftermarket slides can cost up to $200. Check the underside of the slide for peening from impacts with the locking block. A small amount is OK, but very heavy peening indicates something is wrong. Peening happens mostly with the .40 Glocks, as they have a relatively high bullet mass/velocity ratio. 9mms rarely have it, and the 10m/.45s do not show it much at all.
Other parts of the Glock may have been stressed. Look at the front of the slide. Excessive recoil from hot loads may have stressed the front of the slide where the recoil spring assembly bears on it. A crack there is very bad and cannot be repaired. The slide must be replaced. Bargain the price down. Also, the slide is thin on the ejection port side, and a steady diet of +P or +P+ loads may have cracked it there. (If you’re lucky, a peened breechface also has a cracked slide, and Glock will likely replace it at low or no cost.)
We also face a new wrinkle these days – lead-free ammunition – but the bullets aren’t the problem; it’s the priming compound. Traditional non-corrosive primers use a compound called lead styphnate. There is also a pinch of other heavy metals in there, too. Lead is bad for you, there’s no doubt about that, but the exposure can be controlled. The problem is with the new compounds. They have a higher brisance or shattering power, so the primer gets hammered by a sharper, higher-pressure combustion. This is directed at the breechface, which is not the strongest point of Glock’s design.
Glock now tells everyday shooters not so use lead-free ammunition, but what about law enforcement shooting Glocks who are required to train with lead-free ammo?
If you have a Glock with a cracked slide, I suggest a letter and some photos first. If Glock is willing to replace the slide for free, ship it. If they want to charge you for it, find out how much. A replacement Caspian slide can be had for $140 for a G-17, and you may want to go that route if Glock will charge you more. But if they already have your pistol, and won’t ship it back without repairing it, you won’t be able to exercise the Caspian option.
Check the firing pin safety for function. Press the striker back, then try to push it forward. If it goes forward past the firing pin safety, the firing pin and its safety need inspection and replacement.
The extractor needs a look. A chipped extractor may not function 100 percent, but a replacement isn’t very much. What you may need is the armorer to replace it, as Glock needs to know the serial number and caliber to use the correct one.
Don’t worry about what sights might be on it; sights are cheap and easily replaced.
Look at the trigger parts. Black? Silver? Black is really old, and must be replaced, but Glock will do it for free. Check the trigger safety engagement. With the slide off, press the trigger bar forward and listen for the safety clicking in place. While still pressing forward, pull the trigger and ease the bar back. If there is a problem, it may be very dirty. Then again, it may have been polished, ground, filed or otherwise experimented on. Internal parts for Glocks are inexpensive, easy to replace, and common. At a good enough bargain price, you can replace all the guts and still be in for not much money.
Inspect the frame forward of the locking block. Gently flex the recoil spring housing right and left, up and down. Some guns, especially the major-caliber compacts and subcompacts, have been known to crack near where the serial number plate is inserted. A cracked frame will be replaced by Glock but gives you an opportunity to bargain the price down. It also gives you an opportunity to create a collector’s piece. If Glock returns the gun with a new serial number, keep the paperwork. You have a factory mis-match, and it may bring a bit of a premium at some future time.
Recoil springs on Glocks don’t give up the ghost very easily, so looking at the spring won’t tell you much. Unless you have a Glock so old that it pre-dates the switch to the captured recoil spring assembly. (It probably has the old trigger parts, too.) A new recoil spring assembly is inexpensive, so don’t worry about it, but keep bargaining.
Magazines are almost always part of a handgun purchase. Pistols don’t work very well without magazines. Inspect the magazines to make sure they are as stated. Old-style or drop-free? If they are drop-free, do they? Insert them in the Glock in question and see. Make sure they are Glock, especially if you are paying a premium for honest to goodness Glock mags. Check the feed lips to see if the polymer is still attached. We’ve been seeing more Glock magazines delaminating, that is, having the polymer separate from the steel feeds lips. Glock won’t replace magazines that have delaminated, but are still functional. The internals and base plates can easily be replaced, so your main concern is the tube itself. If it is in good shape and correct for the pistol you’re buying, then shake over a price and have fun with your new toy.
The inspection and test process is the same for all striker-fired pistols.
Buying A Used Beretta 9mm
The first thing you must be careful of are military “surplus” parts. As a relatively controlled item, there are no surplus items released from government stores. Second, it is current government policy that no useable parts are allowed out for civilian sale. Yes, that’s right, they torch everything.
Buy government-marked items with caution or not at all. A manufacturer may well have deliberately made a production over-run, to have “surplus” items for sale. Then again, they might be parts that were spirited out of government ownership.
Check a used Beretta to make sure the safety operates properly. Make sure it is unloaded. Cock the hammer. Drop a pencil (eraser first) down the bore and use the safety to drop the hammer. If the pencil does more than bounce, the safety is not blocking the firing pin. Check that the trigger returns smoothly when released after dry-firing. Check that the magazines drop free. Look down the bore for bulges. You could easily drop another $150 on a replacement barrel, so if you see a bulge, bargain the price down accordingly.
Remove the top end and look at the locking block seat. That is where the locking block cams down and ramps to a stop in the frame. The block, barrel and slide are steel. The frame is aluminum. It is not unheard-of for high-mileage frames to crack at the locking block seat.
A heavily used Beretta should have all the small springs and some parts replaced. A high-mileage Beretta may need a new locking block. If the block shows as much wear as the barrel does, and the finish on both is heavily worn, get a new block. You could even use the need for a new block as a bargaining lever. However, if you’ve already bargained down from everything else, you may find the seller is at his or her price limit.
The above process works for any other traditional DA pistol, be it Sig, S&W, Taurus, etc.
If you’re a gun guy, you know the name Doug Turnbull. Turning out some of the most marvelous and unique creations in the firearms world today, he’s pretty much the Willy Wonka of classic firearms restoration, inimitable metal finishes and custom manufacturing.
This week, Modern Shooter goes behind the scenes where the magic happens with a visit to Turnbull Restoration and Manufacturing in upstate New York. There, Turnbull’s master craftsmen tirelessly ply their art — not to mention a dab of blood and sweat — to make peerless one-of-a-kind guns and the old new again. And boy howdy, do they pull off some miracles.
Sam Chappell gives a solid example of one such feat in the above video. The Turnbull restoration specialist goes step by step through what it takes to breathe new life into an old gun — in this case an early 1911. Stripping the pistol to its bones, smoothing every well-earned dent and pit, and applying a rock-solid new finish, the true classic is born again hard. In all honesty, it would be difficult to tell Turnbull’s project from an original that rolled off the assembly line more than a century ago. And that’s Turnbull’s aim with every timeless pistol, rifle and shotgun that passes across the workbenches.
Catch the rest of Turnbull’s incredible creations in this episode of Modern Shooter 10:00 p.m. EST Friday on the Pursuit Channel. The episode rebroadcasts Monday at 12 p.m. EST and Tuesday at 11:30 a.m. EST.
Scale down to a .22 LR AR for mastery of the basics and cost-effective training.
How the .22 LR AR will help you master your carbine:
With similar ergonomics and controls, the .22 LR ARs is an ideal training tool.
Also, they are light on the pocketbook, as ammunition is affordable.
Learning requires repetition, and cheap, .22 ammo offers more trigger pulls for training.
Ideally, try to match a .22 version closely to your standard AR for better training.
One of the best calibers ever created is the .22 LR rimfire. It’s fun to shoot, affordable — and you can have almost any style firearm you want in .22. Every gun owner needs a good .22 LR, and the AR is one of the great firearms of all time, so pair the two with a .22 LR AR and you’ve got shooting bliss.
The .22 LR is available in a variety of types. You buy bulk ammo for plinking, and match ammo if you’re working on marksmanship. With a .22, you’ll need to experiment until finding the right ammo for your gun.
In addition, the AR’s ergonomics are perfect, with all the controls exactly where they should be. With the variety of accessories available, the AR can be set up to fit anyone, and almost any application. Combining the .22 rimfire and the AR gives you the best of all worlds: The .22 LR AR is fun, easy to shoot and a perfect firearm for every gun owner.
Most of us learned to shoot with a .22, so we all know how it works. Walk into any store that sells ammo and you’ll be able to buy a variety of .22 ammo. (There’s only been one time in my life when .22 wasn’t readily available, and that seems to have been a fluke.)
The .22 LR is also cheap to shoot. You can buy plinking ammo by the box, brick or bucket for about eight cents a round. Match-grade ammo — for added accuracy — will cost around 45 cents a round. Regardless of the application, the cost is going to be significantly less than any other caliber. For example, 5.56 in 55-grain ball ammo is running 30 cents a round in this part of the country. This makes the .22 LR an excellent round for fun, training and practice.
Eugene Stoner was a genius. One of his greatest works is the AR-15. He made the AR easy to use for both right- and left-handed shooters. It’s lightweight, which is always a plus, and the recoil from the .223/5.56 is easily managed — another advantage of Stoner’s influence. The AR quickly rose in popularity, which created a huge surge in design and production of aftermarket accessories.
S&W’s 15-22 can be modified to suit your needs or tastes. The stock and grip are easy to swap out, and with Tacticool22’s handguard kit, you can change handguards — mounting any type of handguard you get, from factory to aftermarket.
It doesn’t matter whether you’re a left- or right-handed shooter; it’s an intuitive, easy to use rifle. You can configure an AR for any application. Manufacturers took notice of the AR market and began producing models in a variety of calibers. One of the best is the .22 LR version.
A Classic Combo
The .22 LR AR versions vary according to how closely they resemble the real thing. My favorite is the S&W 15-22. Shooting and manipulating the 15-22 is very close to the full-caliber AR. The 15-22 weighs about 4½ pounds — vs. 6 pounds for my defensive carbine — the charging handle doesn’t come back as far as a “real” carbine, and the mag is shaped a little different, which isn’t a concern. Other than that, all the controls are exactly the same. This makes it a great platform for introducing new shooters to the fundamentals of safety, marksmanship and manipulations. Then it’s an easy transition from .22 to a full-size AR — which comes in an extensive variety of calibers.
The .22 LR AR is also a good idea for experienced shooters and provides an affordable option for training and practice. I’m a big believer in consistency, so I wanted a .22 AR that matched my defensive carbine, which is a Shootrite Katana, built by MHT Defense.
This meant modifying my 15-22. As .22 ARs became popular, aftermarket companies stepped up to provide accessories for them. I used a Handguard Conversion Kit from Tacticool22 to mount a PRI handguard to the 15-22, and attached a Magpul MOE adjustable stock. The front sight is a steel A2 tower — modified to fit the S&W 15-22 barrel — and the rear is a Daniel Defense A1.5 rear sight. The 15-22 has the same grip — a DuckBill Tactical Grip — same red-dot sight and the same sling as my Katana. The S&W 15-22 is almost a perfect match to my regular work carbine, except it weighs less and it’s much cheaper to shoot.
Train To Perform
Learning requires repetition, and the brain — where all the learning takes place — doesn’t know whether you’re shooting a .22 or a full-size caliber. The fundamentals are all the same. To shoot accurately, you aim, hold, press and follow through — recovering from the recoil, reacquiring the sight picture and resetting the trigger.
A .22 AR set up like your defensive carbine allows you to practice skills and tactics at a reduced cost. There are small differences — the mags are a little longer, and the gun’s charging handle doesn’t cycle back as far as a real AR — but these are minor. Remember, it takes repetition to learn, and the .22 is an affordable way to get those reps.
With a .22 LR, you can get in more repetitions cheaper. The same applies to skills like moving and shooting, using cover and manipulations like reloading. “But,” you ask, “what about recoil?” Use your normal stance and mount, shoot, and then, like any other firearm, concentrate on recovering from the recoil as opposed to trying to control it. If you try to tense up in anticipation of trying to control the recoil, it’s going to affect your accuracy regardless of caliber. The .22 LR is more than ideal for new and experienced shooters.
At one time, practicing with a .22 LR meant using a weapon that was radically different from what you might normally carry or shoot. Today, you can practice with a .22 AR — which is going to be very close to what you normally use. You’re learning just as much, maybe even more, and it’s not costing you nearly as much as shooting larger calibers all day long.
The .22 LR is ideal for introducing new shooters to the AR platform. Plus, for me at least, there’s a nostalgic connection to the .22. I, like a lot of you, learned how to shoot using the .22. Today, when shooting the .22, it always takes me back to great days on the range with my dad.
The .22 is hard to beat. The AR is my favorite rifle. A .22 AR is the best of both worlds.
Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the February 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
This pistol, an original and unmolested Singer from 1942, is far too valuable to change anything. Leave it alone and find something else to practice on.
Learn from the misfortunes of others to avoid making these gunsmithing mistakes when repairing or maintaining your own firearms.
Mistakes in gunsmithing fall into two categories. There are those you can fix with money or effort, and those that require paperwork. Both happen because you didn’t apply patience. Before you tighten the vise and begin cutting, drilling and filing, or fire up the torch, think through what you’re going to do. A moment spent visualizing can save you a lot of hassle and hours, days or even weeks of work.
Don’t Work On Irreplaceable Firearms
Do not work on irreplaceable guns unless you are a pro and you’re willing and able to replace them if you screw up. If someone comes to you with a Jim Hoag or a Swensen–built 1911 and wants you to replace knarfed grip screws, go for it. Find some as close to original as possible and replace them. If they want you to refinish it, replace the barrel or checker the frame, counsel them that they are trying to irrevocably alter a historical, valuable collectible, and they shouldn’t do it … and you won’t!
Something like a pristine WWII bring-back should be cleaned, carefully, and left as-is. Some things should be left alone.
Don’t go increasing power on something. If someone approaches you at the gun club, knowing you do pistolsmithing, and wants you to take their old S&W M-28 and re-build it to a .44 magnum, turn them down. First of all, S&W won’t sell you the magnum parts. Second, there’s a reason they make new .44s, and don’t re-build old guns to new, bigger calibers.
A Union Switch & Signal 1911A1 is much more valuable as a collectible than anything you can do to make it a world-beating competition gun. In fact, the owner could sell it for enough to buy a matched pair of custom-built 1911s, and have two more-durable guns to boot.
General Considerations
Don’t make a change that can’t be reversed for a competition gun unless you’re sure it’s an allowed modification for the discipline in which you plan to shoot.
Hunting regulations matter. My .40 Super is a very good selection for deer hunting, except for a pesky part of the Michigan regulations: The handgun-allowed areas specifically disallow bottlenecked cartridges.
You may also have to take into consideration bizarre state or national laws. You may live in a state that insists on sample bullets as a requirement of sale. Changing barrels might also require a sample bullet. It may require a sample bullet from a “certified testing laboratory” or someone certified, bonded, inspected or approved. Make sure you know what is allowed.
The Loctite Episodes
Some thread-locking compounds fix quickly. One of the fastest setting is my favorite, 680 Shaft and Bearing, the dark green stuff. It fixes in the absence of oxygen and when friction stops. You can keep turning the part while 680 is on the threads and it won’t set up, but don’t stop.
Loctite wicks. Every gunsmith in the country has bonded a trigger assembly together at least once. Once it starts wicking you cannot control where it goes. Use it sparingly, and use gravity to control it. Then check everything again after the Loctite has set. I once had to chip the Loctite off a rifle trigger mechanism (and detail strip it to do so) from an errant few drops of Loctite that were meant to keep scope mounts in place.
Loctite does not work through oil. My first few scope mounting jobs came loose because I did not sufficiently degrease the threads. I thought I had, but what seemed good was not what the real world said was good. If you plan to use Loctite, degrease the threads.
Parts Is Not Parts
Keep track of what you’re doing. Work on one firearm at a time. I once had a customer come in with his fully tricked out, super-custom competition 1911 that had suddenly “lost its accuracy.” I was puzzled at first, but upon inspecting it discovered that the barrel was a loose fit. I stripped it and looked underneath, and sure enough the barrel was marked with a different serial number than the frame and slide. (Many custom gunsmiths number-match major and minor parts to each gun to make sure they don’t get misplaced.) The barrel in his custom gun was the barrel from his carry gun. The match barrel was such a tight fit in his carry gun (which he had on at the time) that it would short-stroke if fired. He had decided to clean them both the weekend before – at the same time – and mixed up the barrels upon reassembling them. Luckily, he’d gone for practice with the competition gun before he needed the carry gun at work.
If you own identical firearms and are in the habit of working on them at the same time, it might not be a bad idea to get an electric marking pencil and mark the last two, three or four digits of each of their serial numbers in unobtrusive places.
We all know about poor-quality magazines, but there are other parts that can be poor quality too. Like the fellow who invested in a cheap replacement barrel at a gun show for his 1911. Too bad the barrel was made of soft steel and the locking lugs on the barrel peened. Once they’d peened enough, they started chipping the locking lugs on the slide. The end result of “saving” $50 at the gun show was a new slide and barrel, and the labor to fit them – about six times the price.
This is a baby Nambu. Rare hardly begins to describe it, and it is off limits as far as gunsmithing modifications are concerned.
Milling And Drilling
Is the location you’re about to drill the real, actual, place you want that hole to be? Once drilled it is difficult to re-drill. Yes, you can tap the hole, secure a threaded plug in place and re-drill, but even then there can be problems. What if the new plug you just laboriously installed is a different hardness than the surrounding metal? The correct, offset hole may wander when drilled. The plugged hole may show after you’ve installed whatever the part is.
A gunsmith of my acquaintance once did not secure the dovetail cutter tightly enough in the chuck before proceeding to mill the dovetail slot in a slide. The force of cutting pulled the cutter down out of the collet and into the slide as it fed across. He was halfway across the slide before he noticed. Luckily the customer wanted the slide hard-chromed after all the work was to be done on his expensive and super-custom 1911. The solution was to file a piece of steel to fit in the mutant sight dovetail. Then solder it in place, machine the slide correctly, finish filing the edges of the plug to match the slide, then machining French borders to hide the plug, polish, bead-blast and plate. The customer loved it and showed all his friends the extra work he’d gotten as a make-up for the delay in delivery. The gunsmith ended up spending an extra five hours of time on the job because he failed to spend 30 seconds making sure everything was tight and correctly positioned.
Then there was my “oops.” I drilled a scope mount on a rifle and “kissed” the barrel threads. (I mis-measured the stop gauge on the drill press by .010 inch.) No problem, as the customer never intended to change the barrel. Well, you guessed it. That hunting season was a very snowy one. His muzzle ended up in the snow, he split the muzzle on firing it, and he wanted a new barrel. I had a heck of a time getting the old barrel off, what with the drilling burrs I had created. It turned out all right, but I spent an extra week soaking the threads in Kroil, and took a lot longer to clean the receiver, rosin the surface and clamp it as tight as I could make it. I crossed my fingers before going to unscrew the barrel.
Parts Is Parts
If at all possible, do your filing, stoning, fitting and other work on a cheaper or more easily replaced part. Sometimes you can’t avoid it. You must cut the frame to fit a beavertail grip safety. But if you need to fit a bushing on a 1911, fit the bushing and don’t go cutting on the barrel or slide if you can avoid it. If your trigger is too large to fit the 1911 frame, file the trigger and not the frame.
Practice fitting on old parts bought for the purpose. Improving your trigger by stoning the sear that came with it goes much easier if you practice beforehand on one bought at a gun show for a dollar. Buy a rusted or busted barrel and have it welded up to learn how to fit barrels. That’s also the way to let your welder get some practice, although don’t be surprised if he charges you for it. Unless you’re a working gunsmith you won’t have the luxury of practice guns to work on, but old parts are cheap, and bar and round steel is cheaper still. Practice takes time, and if you are working for yourself, time doesn’t matter. A pro has to bill his time, and practice is time he can’t bill (but a necessity regardless of cost). You aren’t billing your time and are working on your own handguns. Get it done right by working your mistakes out and building your skills on practice parts.
And if you do make a mistake on a “good” part, don’t be cheap. So you stoned a Chip McCormick sear to death? Or a Wilson? Spend the less-than-twenty bucks and buy a new one and learn from your mistake.
The Early Plate Job
Hold off getting your gun finished, especially if you are a competition shooter. You may find that there is a sharp edge or corner you hadn’t noticed at first. Or the safety chafes once you’ve practiced with it. Or the sights just aren’t all you’d hoped they’d be. But now the plating you so eagerly had applied has to come off before you can get the extra work done.
Most plating cannot be treated like paint, that is, “spot-sanded” and retouched. It all must come off. The plater will charge you to remove all of the old and charge you again to plate anew. If you want to shoot your new custom gun for a while before getting it plated, you can have it blued. Or you can treat it to a bake-on finish from Brownells. The finish will last long enough to let you determine that you are ready for plating. The temporary finish will also protect the surface until you can have it finish-polished and plated.
One aspect of plating you need not worry about: porting. Chrome, nickel and other metal platings are all electrically conductive. Mag-na-port will not have any problem porting your barrel (or slide) through the exterior plating. If you have a non-conducting finish like a bake-on epoxy, they can scrape enough of the finish off for the electrodes to find a conducting surface to work with, and then port through your finish. But the final finish will be better served if you port first, then finish.
This gentleman knows exactly what he’s doing, so the stream of sparks is not cause for alarm. If you are getting ready to grind, cut, file or machine, remember: measure twice, cut once.
Paperwork Errors
There was a fellow who was so taken with the idea of turning his old surplus M-1917 S&W .45 ACP revolver into a snubbie that he didn’t measure the location of the serial number. Taking square-butt revolvers and turning them into round-butt revolvers was something that used to be done a lot more often. The factories had made a bazillion square-butt wheelguns, and buying a new, round-butt revo could be expensive.
He used a pair of round-butt wooden grips as his grinding template and ground the backstrap and butt to match the grips. Only when he went to have it polished for bluing did he discover he was missing a digit and a half from the serial number. Luckily for him, the serial number was also stamped on the frame in the crane cutout. However, even with a pre-existing, valid serial number in place on the gun in a different location, it is a technical violation of Federal law to alter or obscure a serial number. Learn from his lesson.
One prospective paperwork error is the crushed frame. If you attempt to clamp your pistol frame in the vise without a clamping block in place, you may crush the frame. It is very difficult to restore the interior to a size that will accept a magazine. If you are lucky, the factory will replace the frame with a new one bearing the same serial number (and destroy the old one). They will charge you dearly for it. If they cannot or will not send it back bearing the same serial number, you must then go through the paperwork process of proving the old one scrapped and then registering your “new” firearm. The simplest way to do so is to turn it over to a professional gunsmith and his Federal Firearm License. He can enter the old one on his books, then show it sent to the factory and retained by them. You then keep the work order showing the disposition of your “old” firearm. You “purchase” your “new” firearm from him, conforming to all the state requirements. All in all an expensive lesson.
The prospect of replacing a busted frame with one of the same serial number is now not as easy as it used to be. I was discussing the subject with a big manufacturer, and had the following story related to me: apparently manufactures get regular government inspections. On one of these, the ATFE agent being escorted around passed a door and asked “What’s in there?” Answer: “Oh, that’s where we keep the un-numbered frames for repairs.”
Not anymore, they don’t. Now, if that company wants to replace your frame with one of the same serial number, they have to have an employee intercept a correct frame at the serial-numbering station, pluck it out of the production stream, then walk it to the custom shop, where it is stamped with your gun’s number right after the frame of your gun is destroyed. That’s a lot more cost, and may mean the end of the courtesy of same-numbered replacements. And when it happened, it was just that, a courtesy.
Getting Hurt
Back in junior high school shop class my teacher was Mr. Braisted. One of the items on his desk was a looseleaf folder full of photographs. Some in color, most in black and white. They showed the injuries suffered by people who didn’t pay attention to safety. The one that sticks in my mind was the guy who was using a file on a lathe-turned part to polish it. He neglected to put a handle on the file and, when the file got snagged by a jaw of the chuck, it impaled his hand with the file tang.
In our own class, someone failed to take the drill press key out of the chuck, and when they turned it on the key was hurled off the chuck. It broke the chain and hurled the key across the room, narrowly missing Mr. Braisted.
Those aside, how else can you hurt yourself while pistolsmithing? One way is to forget things are hot. So, you’re soldering a pair of parts, and it slips and you go to catch it. That you’ll only do once. Ditto sharp objects. Wear sturdy shoes, and if something falls, intercept its path with the top of your shoe, to buffer its impact on the concrete.
Never forget the reason firearms exist is to hurl bullets. I was once testing a Browning A5 shotgun in 16 gauge. I chambered a round and pulled the trigger, and it failed to fire. Okay, so I went to pull the charging handle back to unload it and boom!!, off it goes.
The A5 has a safety alignment built into it that if the bolt isn’t fully closed, it won’t fire. Well, the hammer won’t go fully forward. This 16 gauge had been rebuilt from its original 2-9/16” chambering to 2-3/4” and the smith who had done the work hadn’t fully checked his work in also adjusting the hammer clearance. So, chamber a round, pull the trigger and the hammer catches on the action bar. Pull the bolt back slightly, and the hammer clears, goes forward and fires the gun. Because I was careful, the damage was limited to the heavy-duty electrical junction box where the muzzle had been pointed at that moment, and my pride.
Caustic chemicals, flammable solvents, sharp edges, these are all reasons to get in and stay in the habit of dressing for success. That means safety glasses all the time. When the time comes in our law enforcement patrol rifle classes, we tell the officers “wear the safety glasses we told you to bring.” It is amazing how many don’t have such glasses. And even those that do will not always wear them while guns and parts are in play. If you use power tools, earplugs or muffs. A work apron, to keep your clothes clean. Sturdy shoes or boots. And if you are grinding, then a face mask – paper, cloth, respirator, whatever.
Dress properly, and you’ll have a long future of happily working on guns. Fail to dress properly, and things might not be so happy.
Simmons has introduced AETEC and Whitetail Classic riflescope lines, offering shooters affordable performance.
What to know about Simmons and its new optics options:
Simmons has made a name for itself providing affordable performance optics.
The AETEC features unique aspherical lenses for a clearer picture.
The Whitetail Classic line includes highly affordable, traditional hunting scopes.
When it comes to firearms accessories, perhaps the No. 1 item for a shooter to invest in is an optic. For most purposes, be it hunting or target shooting, no other single piece of gear does more to bring out the accuracy of a firearm.
To the dismay of shooters and their pocketbooks, investing in glass, however, is a deal with the devil. On one side, optics bring out the most in a gun. On the other, and especially nowadays, they can run a small or even large fortune.
Simmons has always done a solid job of finding a sweet spot when it comes to performance and price, offering shooters optics that bust the bullseye, not the budget. And the economy optics maker recently released a pair of scopes, which appear to stick to Simmons’ tried-and-true formula of more bang for the buck.
AETEC Riflescopes
With a unique lens design, the Simmons AETEC delivers a distortion-free image across the entire field of view. The secret is aspherical lenses — a design of which Simmons was an early adopter — which eliminates aberrations common in more traditional lens designs. The result is a flat, crystal-clear image that allows shooters to precisely place their shots.
The AETEC series are adjustable-power scopes, with the choices of 2.8-10x magnification and 4-14x. In each case, the optics come with ample 44mm objective lenses and the choice of standard or illuminated Truplex reticles. The AETEC scopes run between $200 and $300 depending on model and go on sale in May.
Whitetail Classic Riflescopes
Simmons has spiffed up and reintroduced one of its most popular hunting scope lines for 2018 — the Whitetail Classic. The time-tested design offer hunters six configurations to match their hunting style and environment and a copious view range so that next wall hanger doesn’t slip away.
Outfitted with Simmons’ simple and effective Truplex reticle, the Whitetail Classics are quick to get on target and accurate once there. Available in five adjustable-power models, shooters can have the choice of from 1-4x magnification to 6-24x. There’s even a fixed 4x powered model for those shooting to really simplify their next hunt. Best of all, the Whitetail Classics are among the most affordable hunting scopes available today, running from $49 to $119. The scopes go on sale in May.
If you do your own gunsmithing long enough, you will run into screws that refuse to budge. From simple to extreme, try these five techniques to get the job done.
The five ways to remove frozen screws when gunsmithing are:
If you work on firearms long enough, you will run into screws that refuse to budge. With the correct screwdriver and the proper force, a screw should move. If it doesn’t, stop. Go through this checklist: Is the screw a properly fitting screw? When was the last time this screw was moved? Has Loctite been applied? If you don’t know, is it a screw that is likely to be locked in place? (The most common places you will run into screws locking in place will be on scope mounts. People who don’t know how to properly tighten a screw will use Loctite when it’s not needed.)
Buy the correct screwdrivers for the job. Using one that is “close enough” is a sure way to mangle a screw slot. You have no one to blame but yourself.
You must proceed with caution or you will mar or strip the screw slot, making a difficult job more difficult. Do not let anything slip. The screw or even the firearm will be damaged. In extreme cases, you can hurt yourself.
1. Use A Torch
Double-check you are using a properly fitting screwdriver. If the screw is locked in placed with Loctite, use a propane torch to break down the Loctite. You must be careful. The strongest grades of Loctite will withstand 400 degrees Fahrenheit. At 600 degrees you will heat-damage the bluing, but the steel itself will not be harmed.
2. Use Penetrating Oil
If the screw is frozen, but not locked in with Loctite, heat will have no effect. Put the firearm on your bench so the screw is level, and place a drop of penetrating oil, such as Liquid Wrench, on the screw head. Let the oil work into the screw for an hour, a day, or a week, if you can. Now try again with a screwdriver.
Some people prefer to work horizontally, others vertically. I’m a vertical person. I set the handgun on top of the padded vise, with the jaws open enough to let the frame fit in the droop of the padding. I hold the screwdriver vertically and place it into the slot. My chin rests against the end of the screwdriver’s handle while I use both hands to turn the screwdriver. In this way, I can exert maximum force and still feel for any movement of the screw.
A variation of this involves the drill press. Clamp the firearm to the drill press table. Put a driver bit that fits the screw in the drill press chuck. Make sure the drill press is not just turned off, but unplugged. Lower the drill press head, line the blade of the screwdriver up with the slot. Using a drill press to keep the screwdriver blade firmly in the screw slot, turn the drill chuck by hand. You can also, if there is room, get a wrench on he screwdriver shaft, for extra leverage. If the screw is completely immovable, or the screw slot has already been damaged enough that you cannot get the screwdriver to purchase, you must now resort to extreme measures.
3. Re-Cut The Screw Slot
Position a cutoff wheel in your Dremel tool. Grind the wheel down to a diameter small enough that you can re-cut the screw slot without touching the frame of the firearm or the base of the scope mount. This method works better with large screws.
4. Drill The Screw
Clamp the handgun in your drill press. DO NOT attempt this with a hand-held variable speed drill. If you simply attempt to drill, the drill will flex against the screw slot and “walk” to drill places you don’t want drilled. Clamp the handgun in your drill press. Use only a center drill. Drill the center of the screw down just far enough to drill off the head. You do not have to match the drill to the screw head diameter. So long as the drill is larger than the threaded portion of the screw, when you get down to the threads, the head will come off. This method is most useful when the firearm is plated, or the part being held by the screw is aluminum. You can now remove whatever the screw was holding on, and the screw shaft will turn out easily with a pair of pliers.
5. Welding
Take the firearm to your welder. (And for goodness sake, let him know you are coming, and why!) He can build up a post of weld on the screw, and then either weld a section of welding rod to the stub or weld a nut to the post. Either way, the screw will turn out, and it will be intact. The screw, having been welded on its head, can be turned, polished, and have a new slot cut. You won’t need to replace the screw. What you will need to do is repair anything damaged by the heat of the welding process. Any bluing or plating will be torched off around the screw. If the screw was holding down something made of aluminum, the torch would have destroyed it.
Along with turning to some of the most cutting-edge materials, such as titanium and Inconel, Silent Legion suppressors are designed to perform over a vast spectrum of calibers and firearms.
It was a simple lesson your mother most likely tried to instill in you at a young age — it’s what’s on the inside that counts. The sage advice not only proves wise when it comes to friends and significant others but also suppressors.
There are a number of cans out today that look as flashy as fireworks on the Fourth of July, but once on a muzzle prove to be just as noisy. That’s because the company focused on dazzle, not dampening and didn’t engineer what counts — the guts. If the baffles‘ geometry isn’t correct and the stack is held to too loose tolerances, a suppressor’s sound reduction will hover right around Mack Truck levels. On top of that, as it rattles around after every shot, it’s going to feel like your gun is coming to pieces right in your hands.
As Luke Hartle shows in the above video, shooters don’t have to stand for that level of sub-par design when there’s the sure-shot choice of Silent Legion. The Gun Digest Editor-in-Chief chats with the premium suppressor manufacturer’s Ed Schoppman about what his company brings to the table in the above video and, in short, it’s impressive.
Along with turning to some of the most cutting-edge materials, such as titanium and Inconel, their suppressors are designed to perform over a vast spectrum of calibers and firearms. Additionally, Silent Legion has addressed the small stuff that puts their suppressors in a class of their own. One such example is the suppression retention system, which keeps all the can’s components where they should be and the unit as tight as a drum.
Shooting suppressed doesn’t come cheap. Silent Legion ensures that hard-earned money delivers.
Many different handgun designs have been introduced since the 1911 appeared more than 100 years ago, but the 1911 pistol is still wildly popular and is probably the most customized handgun in existence. In fact, most of the major firearms manufacturers produce a 1911 even though they make handguns of a newer design, and most of those 1911s have features that years ago were seen only on very expensive customized 1911s. Despite this, the demand for the custom 1911 remains very strong.
But don’t you dare go in blind.
Choosing The Right Gunsmith Because not all gunsmiths do the kind of work expected on a custom 1911, the first step in customizing one is to find the right gunsmith. Complicating the selection is that some custom shops have a stock of 1911s that have been built with certain features. We’ll call them production custom guns, and generally, they’re available on short notice or will be built once an order is received.
But each of these guns from a single shop will be the same, although some shops might allow the customer to request minor variations in features. Other gunsmiths do not make production custom guns and instead build guns only to the customer’s specifications — true customization on an a la carte basis. And then, complicating things further, some gunsmith shops provide both production custom guns and true custom guns.
ROBAR, located in Phoenix, Arizona, is a gunsmithing shop that does it all. With seven gunsmiths on staff, the shop is licensed as a manufacturer, not just a gunsmith operation, and offers true a la carte custom gunsmithing services as well as a production custom 1911 called the RC-1911. ROBAR will customize a 1911 provided by the customer or take an order for a customized 1911 and also supply all the parts including the frame, slide and barrel. ROBAR will even use parts from manufacturers specified by the customer.
Marty Enloe, head gunsmith at ROBAR, says there are several good base guns on which a custom 1911 can be built. These include Colt, Springfield, Kimber, Dan Wesson, Auto Ordnance and Ruger. He added that some aftermarket parts are not compatible with some gun makes, so the customer should listen to the gunsmith’s advice about what parts work best with a particular model of base gun.
No reputable gunsmith will build a gun that will be unsafe, and some gunsmiths will not build a gun with certain features that the gunsmith dislikes either for aesthetic or other personal reasons. So, when searching for a custom gunsmith, the customer should have in mind the types of features wanted, and then get recommendations from trusted sources and friends. The customer should also try to find out how a gunsmith handles complaints. One of the best references are professional trainers because they might see many different 1911s come through classes and develop an opinion of how well a particular gunsmith’s guns perform.
Determine The Intended Use There are many 1911 options and features, so when selecting which to include, first decide what the gun is going to be used for. Will it be a competition gun where accuracy is the primary concern? Will the gun be used for serious work, such as for self defense or duty?
Reliability often comes at the expense of accuracy, and an accurate gun is often less reliable. Tight tolerances on super-accurate guns make them less tolerant of dirt and debris that can cause the gun to stop working, whereas a duty or defense gun has greater tolerances, making it less sensitive. A gun that stops working in a competition might cost points, but one that stops working in a gunfight might cost lives.
Find out if the gunsmith has any specialties. For example, ROBAR builds very few competition or race guns and instead focuses on duty or defense guns. ROBAR’s guns will still have close tolerances, but they might not be as close as on a race gun.
And ROBAR will not build a gun with a trigger pull weight less than 4 pounds, where a race gun owner might want a lighter trigger weight. A well-made custom 1911 should have a clean, crisp trigger that breaks at the weight the customer wants. And the customer should get to decide the length of the trigger. Again, it’s personal preference and the use to which a gun is going to be put should help the customer determine the features and specifications.
Other features that should be considered include the slip resistance of the grip. Some people might have extremely sweaty hands or are concerned about having to shoot the gun in a fight where mud or blood might make the grip slippery. Others might want a gun that’s more comfortable to grasp, so they might opt for a less aggressive texturing.
Gun makers recognize this and have developed a wide variety of slip-resistant treatments for grip panels, frontstraps and mainspring housings. A good custom gunsmith can help you decide which grip treatment is right for you and help you pick out one that suits your needs.
Inspecting The Work Quality of work varies among gunsmiths, as it does in any business, so some guidelines can help determine if the finished custom handgun is up to the standards advertised by the gunsmith, but more importantly the standards expected by the customer.
A close visual inspection is a good place to start. Sharp edges should have been removed, and the bevels or rounding applied should be even along the entire length of the edge. Checkering should have straight lines and the points should be sharp, unless the customer has specified the points be blunt to reduce coarseness. If the gun has been polished, the manufacturer’s logo and other detail marks should still be crisp and there should be no thin spots.
The edges of the joints where the mainspring housing fits the frame should be parallel and straight, and the grips should be flush with the frame and have no high spots or gaps. The metal finish should also be evenly applied and contain absolutely no visible blemishes.
While a custom gun is expected to have a flawless appearance, more importantly — especially in a gun built for carry or duty — it must be reliable. And to get a gun to work correctly, parts such as the barrel, slide, extractor and safeties must fit properly. Feed ramp angles need to be correct. It’s nearly impossible for most 1911 owners to check all these things, but with a little work the owner can easily and quickly check the function of the gun.
To do so, the gun must first be broken in. Follow the advice of the gunsmith here, because some guns will need a longer break-in period than others. Then, using the type of ammunition that will be used when running the gun for real — this is especially important for a duty or carry gun — test fire it using every magazine that will be carried concealed or used for competition.
At least one authority says that for a duty gun, a 1911 should malfunction no more than once in every 1,000 rounds. Others say less. Make sure the safeties work, the slide stop catches the slide only when it is supposed to, and the magazine release when pressed allows magazines to drop freely whether loaded or not.
Now Comes The Wait Once you have decided what features are wanted and have found a gunsmith you’re sure can do the job, place the order, pay the money and be prepared to wait. Sometimes the wait can be quite awhile because custom shops are in high demand and the work gets backed up. In fact, some custom shops are not currently accepting new orders because of a massive demand backlog.
And custom work is expensive. It takes time to do all of the fitting. Much is done with soot from a candle to identify high spots, and a hand file to slowly remove metal. Costs for a custom gun can range from $2,000 to much more. Add more features and the price goes up. If you want engraving, add even more to the cost and don’t be surprised at a five-figure bill for the best of the best.
Owning a customized 1911 can be a very satisfying experience. Even if all you want is a feature or two added to your gun, or the trigger pull improved, custom work enhances the joys of ownership and can be worth every penny.
Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the January 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
With Boyds At-One Stock, a custom-shotgun fit is in reach of almost every shooter.
One of the striking aspects of a custom shotgun is its fit. Length of pull, drop at comb, everything is tailored like a fine suit so when it’s at the shoulder the gun becomes almost an extension of the shooter himself. It is nearly ideal in every way, allowing shotgunners to dust birds with ease or break blue rock like it’s going out of style.
However, there is a major drawback to a custom shotgun — price. It typically takes a substantial investment to put a scattergun that’s stock is chiseled to fit you like a glove into a gun case. Or does it?
Surprisingly, with the Boyds At-One Stock, a custom-gun fit is in reach of almost every shooter. Similar to stocks available for precision rifles, Boyds’ shotgun version gives shooters complete control over LOP and drop, ensuring the gun shoulders fast and intuitively. And as Gun Digest Editor-in-Chief Luke Hartle shows in the above video, the stock is a snap to adjust. Its slip-nut retention system means it only takes a push of a button to modify its dimensions to yours. No spacers. No screwdrivers. Just more time shooting.
Additionally, the At-One Stock has interchangeable grips, forearm width inserts and comes in 11 different colors. The precision shotgun stock is available for two of the all-time popular shotguns — the Remington 870 and Mossberg 500. And best of all, at right around $200, nearly every shotgunner can work one into their budget and shoot a gun that performs like it was made just for them.
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 of the best concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
