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Gun Review: Howa HCR Chassis Rifle

By
L.P. Brezny
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When it comes to a precision chassis rifle, the Howa HCR hits the sweet spot on accuracy and affordability.

Does the Howa HCR go the distance?

  • The new Howa HCR is available in .308 Win., .223 Rem., .243 Win., and 6.5 Creedmoor.
  • It boasts a 24-inch barrel with a medium-heavy contour and Howa’s 1500 action.
  • Accurate-Mag builds the chassis, milled from 6061-T6 aluminum.
  • It successfully and consistently engaged targets around 600 and 909 yards downrange.
  • It’s priced reasonably compared to other chassis rifles yet remains highly accurate.

It’s safe to say that I go back a ways with chassis rifles and Howa firearms manufacturing. I’ve hauled around my personal Weatherby Vanguard Back Country in .257 Weatherby Magnum for many years, and because the folks at Howa manufacture the Vanguard action and barrel, I feel pretty safe in saying that the Howa is a top-end barreled action, and well worthy of respect among serious shooters.

Howa HCR -1

I’m also no stranger to chassis-style rifles. I’ve published three books on the subject of long-range high-performance rifles, and am in the process of writing a fourth, and in the course of researching and testing rifles for those projects, I’ve come across many different chassis rifle designs. In the past 7 years or so, the topic of chassis rifles has figured prominently in my written work. There is no doubt in my mind that this design has completely revolutionized the whole quest for rifle accuracy within the past 10 years. In fact, its promise is clearly evident based on the fact that just about every major rifle maker in the industry is now offering a chassis rifle as part of its lineup.

The Howa HCR chassis rifle is a representative example of the all-metal rifle versus the more conventionally stocked products available to shooters. Long-range, target and military shooters learned long ago that when a barreled action is married to a rifle stock system with a solid bolt-to-frame link up, the end result is no variation of drift or accuracy. The bottom line here is that the total system won’t change the impact point of bullets, as will some of the more standard wood- and plastic-stocked designs.

A Rifle of Many Faces

Howa builds a vast number of different models of the HCR rifle, so I can only state that due to space and time constraints here, the buyer needs to check out a complete catalogue to see all the available offerings. I quit counting the number of different models, which vary in terms of chambering, furniture additions, colors, as well as a multitude of add-on features, at number 110. Yes, there were more. The Howa HCR is offered in a total of 19 base combinations, and each of those retains from six to eight variants as well. While some companies offer a chassis rifle (one or two), Howa pulled the plug out of the bathtub on this deal. Just think about it, they build it as an over the counter box rifle.

Howa HCR - 2

The rifle sent to me by Legacy Sports International/Howa was quite representative of this chassis rifle line. My rifle retained a medium-heavy barrel (.880 inch) that also had the threaded muzzle with steel cap installed as a suppressor-ready system. The HCR, being chambered in .308 Winchester, is also available in .223 Rem, .243 Win. and 6.5 Creedmoor. The .308 Winchester model utilized a 24-inch barrel with a 1:10 twist (right hand). When the rifle is ordered in the 6.5 Creedmoor or .308 Winchester, a longer 26-inch barrel can also be obtained as another option.

The receiver of the chassis rifle is the basic Howa Model 1500, which is CNC machined from a single steel block. As a “short action” throw, this push-feed twin-lug bolt travels 4.540 inches. Howa changes the bolt travel length based on cartridge length. Receiver controls consisted of a left-side bolt release that is simple to use and a sliding thumb safety on the right side of the receiver’s rear. The 10-round AI-style Accurate-Mag box is coated so as to aid in smooth magazine well function.

The forend and receiver base housing is built using 6061-T6 aluminum. This is not grandma’s pots and pans aluminum but rather a special blend to aid in strength retention, and it offers some ability to fight off field wear as well. This complete chassis is built by Accurate-Mag with a free-floating M-LOK mounting system.

Again, one of the outstanding qualities of a chassis rifle is that they all make use of a barrel that stands alone down the forend tube, being attached only to the receiver ring itself. The butt stock as a system is AR styled with full length of pull and comb adjustments on board. This system is the LUTH-AR MBA-3, and it provides six-position adjustment for length by way of the AR-style primary tube. The chassis stock is also adaptable in terms of add-on AR-type accessories. Whereas the rifle could be used for competitive shooting, varmint applications or informal long-range steel shooting, it has been built with the ability to become exactly what the shooter desires.

The trigger on this Howa HCR is a two-stage system with a measured break of 2 pounds, 9 ounces, based on my Timney trigger scale. The trigger is very smooth, with a clean, sharp let off. I’ll talk more on this later when I cover accuracy testing.

Howa HCR - 3

As a package rifle — and all of these systems are just that, with many options available to the shooter — my test rifle retained a set of high rings and bases that locked onto a 20 MOA angled, Weaver-style rail. The scope used on this rifle was a Nikko Stirling Diamond Long Range. This glass features a 4-16×50 optic with MOA graduations on a large volume turret setup. With 4 MOA available off the reticle directly, the second focal plane system was without question set up for direct turret elevation applications.

When under live fire testing at extended ranges, it becomes evident that this rifle was set up for long-range applications. And at its fair price of less than $1,600, it’s an affordable option to budget-conscious shooters looking to make the jump into long range. Included in this package system is a complete bottom metal system in the event the owner wants to set a standard plastic or wood stock system against the barreled action for lighter carry weight for use in hunting applications, etc. The short form here is that Howa has thought of just about everything in terms of marketing this rifle to serious long-range shooters.

DownRange

With bad weather closing fast within the week on the great western Dakota prairie country, getting out to the range and performing an accuracy test before the weather worsened was vital. I needed to establish a zero with the scope and then shoot and measure some representative groups at 100 yards. Once I established a zero at 100 yards and shot several groups, my next step would be to stretch the Howa’s legs and see how it performed at long range.

When shooting for groups at 100 yards, I found that the new Sierra (Tipped MatchKing) TMK 168-grain bullet handloads I had loaded off my old RCBS C frame at home using military match cases and Varget powder had taken top marks. The best three-shot group with this Sierra handload measured .770 inch. Later on in testing, I would use this same load for the lion’s share of the work on the long-range targets.

I continued to use the Sierra TMK projectile, but this time a 155-grain offering from Black Hills Ammunition, and it produced a best group of .862 inch at 100 yards. The final entry selected as a test round would be Winchester’s 168-grain HPBT Match load. This round again produced solid groups of .972 inch during the zero process and did well in green-bore shooting prior to going long with the now prepped and seasoned rifling.

I mounted a 12-inch Mack Brothers “Varmint” series suppressor from Dakota Silencer, Inc., to the Howa’s 24-inch barrel, ending up with a combined length of 36 inches. This would do two things for my long-range shooting. First, it would increase velocity at the muzzle regardless of the bullet or load, and secondly, it made for an almost recoil-free environment when I tried to follow my bullet impacts (splash) for target correction at long range.

In general, and this is mostly just a WAG (wild ass guess), the .308 168-grain bullet, by my estimations, would now carry as much velocity at 3,400 feet above sea level as would the .30-06 Springfield round at sea level. I do know that going from shooting at sea level to shooting at 13,000 feet in the mountains changes everything about a bullet’s performance downrange. Based on this element of performance enhancement, the Howa HCR in .308 Winchester had a good chance of showing some good stuff against targets even a half-mile or more away.

Open Range
With zeroing, bore prep and a general shakedown of the rifle completed on day one, I then turned to a second morning out on the vast South Dakota prairie. This time my focus would be on engaging selected targets at long range. I set up my portable bench rest and ranged a target out at just under 600 yards, based on readings from my Leica 2000 rangefinder.

Howa HCR - 4

Clicking 12.6 MOA up on the scope’s turret, based on my pre-configured DOPE, I then pushed a full MOA into a 35-percent value cross wind of 8 mph and gusting. I sent the first round, one of my 168-grain Sierra TMK handloads, downrange at a basketball-sized round boulder. At the shot, the earth erupted just over the top of my target, sending a cloud of dust into the air. With a single click correction, the next round returned a solid slap and rock chips went everywhere.

With two more confirming shots on the small boulder, and then two additional solid hits, I turned my attention toward a small dark rock against a high butte that the Leica measured at 909 yards downrange. The target measured about 25 inches in size, and the range required a 26.3 MOA click adjustment from zero. I had a wind advantage now, as my shot would carry in an almost following airflow. It took two rounds to get zeroed on the target (visual splash), but round three slapped dead on, and that shot was followed by a series of eight timed shots that produced three solid hits and two skimmers against my almost 1,000-yard small boulder target.

Shooting on the third day afield produced some very interesting target events. I wanted to test the Howa HCR on a warm target, and with that in mind, I searched out a 100 or so acre prairie dog town that stood above a large stock tank.

From a static position, I let loose some of the Black Hills 155-grain Sierra TMKs at dogs ranging from 174 to 300 yards. Dialing up or down, and taking my time by keeping my suppressor and barrel cool, the rifle flat out performed like a well-oiled machine. Over the course of an hour’s time, I had 27 kills and four missed dogs stacked up to the rifle’s credit.

Additional fun, however, came when I cranked up on the turret adjustments and then sent some Winchester 168-grain Match rounds out to 799 yards, and straight through the passenger window of an old junk Desoto. Many readers here might not even know what a Desoto is, a dead giveaway as to the car’s age, and mine as well for that matter.

Howa HCR - 5

I spent the next hour shooting parts off junk pile vehicles at one half-mile away. I quickly came to the realization that the Howa HCR in any of its massive number of variants will shoot right along with any of the high-grade long-range systems on the market today. The only thing holding this rifle back from the super one-mile-plus rifles is cartridge size, bullet weight and muzzle velocity. Until the .308 cartridges used in this test went transonic, the Howa HCR did everything required of it and more.

Specifications:

Howa HCR
Type: Bolt-Action, Chassis
Caliber: .308 Win., .243 Win., .223 Rem., 6.5 Creedmoor
Action: Howa 1500
Barrel: 20 to 24 in.
Overall Length: 39 to 47.25 in.
Weight: 9 to 10.5 lbs.
Finish: Black, Multicam/FDE, many options
MSRP: $1,239 to $1,725

Editor’s Note: This article is from the August 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Know Your Cartridge: The Dependable .38 Special

By
Gun Digest Editors
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At more than a century old, the .38 Special is still one of the most ubiquitous and well-rounded handgun cartridges available.

  • The .38 Special was developed in 1902 by S&W for its Military & Police Model revolver.
  • It is known as one of the best-balanced, all-round handgun cartridges ever devised.
  • The .38 Special can be loaded with a wide range of bullet weights (95 to 200 grain).

.38 Special Cartridge
Also known as the .38 Colt Special and, more generally, as simply the .38 Special, this cartridge was developed by S&W and introduced with its Military & Police Model revolver, in 1902. This was originally a military cartridge meant to replace the unsatisfactory .38 Long Colt then in use by the Army. Colt brought out its version in 1909, which differs from the original only in bullet shape, the Colt being a flat-point style. Colt, Smith & Wesson, and others make revolvers specifically for this cartridge.

More .38 Special Information:

The .38 Special is considered one of the best-balanced, all-round handgun cartridges ever designed. It is also one of the most accurate and is very widely used for match shooting. Any .357 Magnum revolver will also shoot the .38 Special. It was once the standard police cartridge here and largely in Mexico and Canada. The .38 Special is also a popular sporting cartridge for small to medium game and varmints. With modern hunting bullets, it is effective for this purpose. Because of its moderate recoil, the average person can learn to shoot well with it in a short time, something not true of the .357 or .44 Magnums. The .38 Special is loaded by all major commercial ammunition manufacturers. Bullet weights from 95 to 200 grains have been available.

.38 Special Ballistic Specs

Editor’s Note: This brief is an excerpt from Cartridges of the World 14th Edition.

Video: Determining Your Natural Point Of Aim

By
Gun Digest Editors
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Developing your natural point of aim is key in placing shots accurately and consistently with your handgun. And it only takes a few steps to perfect.

What is natural point of aim and how does it make you more accurate?

  • Natural point of aim is a comfortable, natural position from which to engage targets.
  • This position, when correct, facilitates consistent accuracy with a handgun.
  • To diagnose, close your eyes, punch your handgun out, and see if it’s aligned on target.
  • To correct a misalignment, simply adjust your strong-side leg backward or forward.

What do your feet have to do with your eyes? Plenty, when you’re talking about determining your natural point of aim.

In short, natural point of aim is the most comfortable position you can assume that allows you to accurately and consistently place your shots in the center of your target. As you can imagine, this is a key concept for any handgun shooter, whether it be for target practice, self-defense or competition. And developing it so you’re always on center mass only takes a few steps, as Mark Redl demonstrates in the above video.

Redl goes over the basics of determining your natural point of aim and then the process to correct it so you’re always on target. This requires little more than moving the strong-side leg back if you’re off to the weak side and forward if you’re off to the strong.

Conveniently, ironing out your natural point of aim doesn’t require a trip to the shooting range. A little time during dry-fire practice at home is typically enough to work out the kinks.

While this is typically one of those bedrock skills new shooters need to work on when they’re first getting into the game, it is also something seasoned handgunners should evaluate every now and again. There are any number of things that can throw off or even modify stance, thus your natural point of aim. It is well worth the extra effort to occasionally gauge how your position affects your accuracy, especially when you’re fighting to gain an intuitive sight picture or have one too many fliers.

How To: Concealed Carry In Your Car

By
Jorge Amselle
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Can I carry my gun while traveling in my car? In many cases yes, but there are certain considerations to concealed carry in your car.

Can you carry a gun in your car?

  • Before you concealed carry in your car, know state and local gun laws.
  • With more room in a vehicle, carrying a secured rifle or shotgun is an option.
  • The console and glove box are two options for a handgun, but there are others.
  • If you carry a gun in your car, check it regularly.
  • This is done not only to ensure functionality but also that it has not been stolen.

Most people don’t think of their car or truck as part of their concealed-carry system. But keeping a gun in your car, especially a shotgun or rifle, can absolutely be part of your personal defense plans. I would caution anyone doing this to be mindful of local and state laws as they relate to concealed carry in your car, especially if you cross state lines.

Living close to the Maryland/Washington, D.C. border — two of the least gun-friendly places in the United States — and conducting business and having family in both places, I do not keep a gun in my car. I don’t want to take the chance that I might forget that my gun is in my car and end up arrested. In D.C., it’s a felony to even have ammunition.

concealed carry in your car - 1

A close friend put it better than I could regarding why vehicle carry is a good idea. The fact is, he explained, a handgun is completely unsuitable for self defense. The only reason anyone carries or uses handguns is that they are smaller and more convenient than rifles or shotguns. A handgun, for him, was primarily a tool to use in an emergency that could help him get to a “real” gun. Rifles and shotguns are far more powerful than handguns, and accurate from longer distances.

Vehicle carry of long guns is especially appealing when traveling. If you’re planning a weeklong getaway to the mountains or the beach — even if you have no plans to go shooting — it’s a great comfort knowing you have the means with you for serious personal protection. Likewise, if you are on a drive far from home where there’s a possibility of being stuck or stranded, you might feel under-armed with just your pocket pistol.

Keeping a loaded (or unloaded, depending on local laws) rifle and/or shotgun in a case in your vehicle is a good backup for times when your handgun might not be enough gun. With this type of carry, make sure to keep your long gun cased and preferably locked or secured in some manner, in case your car gets stolen or broken into. You will also want to keep the case out of sight, because thieves will often smash and grab what they can see of value.

There are rifle cases for carbines designed to look like a tennis racket case. Blackhawk makes a whole line of these “Diversion” bags. Renegade Ridge Tactical makes a great diversion bag for a carbine rifle that fits on the back of the driver’s or passenger’s seat in a vehicle and allows for very fast access of a loaded rifle.

concealed carry in your car - gun case

Of course, many people also choose to carry handguns in their vehicles. Depending on your state and local laws, you may be able to carry a loaded or unloaded gun with you at all times in your car. You may be able to keep it unlocked and within reach, say in a center console or glove box. Of course, if you have a concealed-carry permit, you will have more options in this regard.

Several companies make gun cases, car handgun safes and other options specifically for concealed carry in your car. One innovative design comes from Titan Gun Vault, which has a locking steel case that pops the gun up grip first when you open it. It also has a separate area for a loaded magazine so you can carry an unloaded gun and load it very quickly if needed. Be aware that in some areas, a full magazine within reach of a semi-automatic pistol could be considered a loaded gun.

There are other concealed carry car holsters available. Some actually secure the gun, such as The RAC, which looks like a bike lock. Some vehicle gun mounts only hold a firearm in place with a simple holster or magnet, such as the one from Magna-Arm. This type of car gun holster might also be suitable for people who are not allowed to carry at work. At least you can be armed while going to and from work.

Concealed carry in your car - 3

One of my concerns with keeping a gun in my car — besides the fact that if it’s the only gun I carry, I’m defenseless when I’m away from my car — is that it could get stolen. For this reason, you probably shouldn’t keep your most expensive guns or family heirlooms in your vehicle on a full-time basis. A friend keeps a cheap but reliable shotgun and rifle in his vehicle, what some folks refer to as “trunk” guns.

Unless you are always parked in a climate-controlled garage, your vehicle will be subject to temperature extremes, humidity and the usual bumps and shakes as you drive. All of this is harmful to guns and ammunition over the long term — the more exposure, the worse the problem becomes.

My recommendation is to check on your gun at least every couple of weeks to make sure it’s still there and that it has not developed any rust or maintenance issues. Any ammunition you keep in your car should be replaced at least annually, if not every 6 months. Take it to the range and shoot it up. This will help improve your shooting while ensuring that your ammunition is as functional as possible at all times.

Finally, there’s a very important caveat. If you lend your car to anyone, make sure they are aware that you keep firearms inside, that they are not a prohibited person or will not be violating any laws by transporting the firearms, and that they will not be traveling to any place where the firearms are not legal to transport or possess. Better yet, remove the firearms from your vehicle before lending it to anyone if there are any doubts at all.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest’s Shooter’s Guide to Concealed Carry.

6 Long Guns To Know From The Spanish-American War

By
Elwood Shelton
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The Spanish-American War was among our country’s briefest conflicts, yet it marked the introduction of a number of important advancements when it comes to firearms designs.

What were the long guns that stormed the Cuban beaches and charged San Juan Hill?

The Spanish-American War was among the shortest conflicts America has fought. But despite its brevity, it was weighty, and not only in determining the United States’ place in the world. But also, because it marked the introduction of a number of new firearms concepts and technologies, many of which form the bedrock of today’s guns.

The conflict saw the American military’s first widespread use of smokeless powder. It was among the country’s first conflicts in which it utilized the modern machine gun. And it, on the Spanish side, featured gun designs that still to this day define modern rifles. So gird your loins and get set to charge like a Rough Rider into the six long guns (and a couple machine guns) you need to know from the Spanish-American War.

Springfield Model 1892 & 1896 Krag–Jørgensen

Long Guns of the Spanish-American War
Photo: Hmaag

In perfect 20/20 historical hindsight, the Krag–Jørgensen might seem like a lemon. After all, the U.S. Army was quick to replace it after the Spanish and Philippine wars with the iconic Springfield M1903. But this view is a bit of a bum wrap.

The Krag–Jørgensen beat out a slew of other designs to become the Army’s service rifle in the early 1890s. And it was the first truly modern rifle — by today’s definition — the branch adopted.

Consider, it was the first U.S. Army service rifle to fire small-caliber smokeless cartridges, the first to utilize a bolt-action, and the first rifle widely used to feed off a magazine. And by all accounts, the U.S. variants used in the Spanish-American War — mainly the Springfield Model 1892 and 1896, but there were some 1898s — performed admirably. They were the backbone of the Yankees thoroughly blackening a European empire’s eye in the span of weeks.

Where the Norwegian-designed rifle comes up wanting is in comparison to the service rifle it was up against — the Spanish M1893, better known as the Spanish Mauser. The American’s .30-caliber had two main deficiencies compared to the M1893. Its unique horizontally accessed magazine could not utilize stripper clips, reducing its rate of fire. And the Krag–Jørgensen had a much weaker action, with a single locking lug, and thus fired the much weaker .30-40 Krag.

Despite these shortcomings, the Krag–Jørgensen rifles and carbines still left their marks. And they truly helped usher in the modern era of American military power.

Springfield Model 1873

Long Guns of the Spanish-American War
Photo: Rock Island Auction Company

The venerable “Trapdoor Springfield” had served the U.S. Military well in the Plains Wars and beyond, but was well past its prime by the time America sailed for Cuba. Nonetheless, the single-shot rifles still found their way into U.S. soldiers’ hands.

It was a matter of necessity, given there were not enough Krag–Jørgensens to go around, yet ample Trapdoors — from the original Model 1873 clear through to the Model 1888.

Typically, volunteer units ended up armed with the antiquated rifles, with a notable exception — the 1st United States Volunteer Cavalry, also know as the Rough Riders. Most likely, the second in command of the unit — Theodore Roosevelt — had the political clout to ensure his men were armed with the modern Krag–Jørgensen bolt-actions.

The Model 1873 in all its iterations packed a punch and a half, firing the massive .45-70 Government round. Given it was a favorite of Buffalo hunters, it was more than enough to handle man-sized targets.

Aside from an abysmal rate of fire for its time, the prairie cannon had one other huge chink in its armor — it was a black powder rifle. In turn, every shot gave a soldier’s position away, due to a large puff of smoke emitted from the muzzle. Little more was needed for the Spanish troops to rain hell down upon a soldier armed with a Trapdoor.

Model 1895 Lee Navy

Long Guns of the Spanish-American War
Photo: Antique Military Rifles

The Krag–Jørgensen may have been the U.S. Army’s first small-bore rifle, but it was not the first one adopted by America’s Armed Services. That distinction goes to this 6mm gem from Winchester.

Designed by James Paris Lee — of Lee-Metford and Lee-Enfield fame — the Model 1895 Lee Navy is easily the Spanish-American War’s most unique rifle. What makes it so special is its action, which at first blush appears to be a straight pull, but is actually a camming action. This single feature made the 1895 Lee Navy a lightning-fast rifle to operate, though it did take some drilling to master the mechanism to its full extent.

The rifle’s cartridge, the 6mm Lee Navy, was the smallest caliber used by the U.S. Military until the adoption of the 5.56 NATO. And it produced some pretty impressive velocities for the era, capable of pushing a 112-grain bullet more than 2,500 fps.

The U.S. Marines put this ballistic potential to good use in the battles of Camp McCalla and Cuzco Well, in some cases engaging Spanish troops 1,200 yards out. The 1895 Lee Navy saw extensive use in the Pacific during the conflict, and again in the Philippine-American War.

While the rifle performed well and offered some advantages over other service rifles of the time, it had a short-lived service life. By the 1900s, the Navy looked to move to the Krag–Jørgensen to standardize similar to the Army.

Spanish M1893

Spanish-American War Spanish M1893

In short, the Spanish Mauser was a wicked rifle. On top of that, it was arguably the most influential weapon of the Spanish-American War, in terms of design and effectiveness.

To the latter point, the battles of San Juan and Kettle Hills provide a good example. While the Americans won the battle, they did so by sustaining massive casualties at the hands of 700 Spanish defenders. In all, 21 percent, or 1,400 U.S. soldiers of the 6,600 who fought were casualties in the attack.

There were a number of factors that made the Model 1893 so effective, but perhaps the most important was one of Paul Mauser’s greatest contributions to rifle design and another he helped to popularize — a box magazine that staggered the cartridges and the stripper clip. The easily loaded magazine and a way to quickly load it meant the Spanish could throw a nearly uninterrupted wall of copper-jacketed lead at the Americans.

And what they fired was an absolute classic and deadly cartridge — the 7x57mm Mauser. The low-recoil round was flat shooting and accurate, making it easy to fire quickly, with great effect.

The Americans with their Krag–Jørgensen rifles were outgunned in every sense against the Spanish Mauser. It’s no wonder the U.S. Military was was so quick to go back to the drawing board when it came to its service rifle. It’s also no wonder why, when it adopted its new one — the Springfield M1903 — it drew so heavily off Mauser’s designs.

Colt/Browning Model 1895 Machine Gun

Long Guns of the Spanish-American War
Photo: Hmaag

John Browning’s first machine gun had mixed results in the Spanish-American War.

Chambered in 6mm Lee Navy, the gas-operated, belt-fed M1895 did a dynamite job supporting U.S. Marines in the Invasion of Guantanamo Bay. But a pair of 7x57mm Mauser models utilized by the Rough Riders didn’t fair quite as well. Privately purchased by Sgt. William Tiffany (son of famous jeweler Louis Tiffany), the machine guns caused some Spanish casualties, but by most accounts were undependable.

Despite this somewhat spotty record, the M1895 ushered in a new age of weaponry for the U.S. Military. Lightweight and able to pitch more than 400 rounds per minute, the machine gun gave soldiers the ability to lay down a high volume of fire nearly anywhere needed. Before, it was an arduous task, given the only gun with a comparable rate of fire — the Gatling gun — required an artillery carriage to move about.

The M1895 had a unique design, drawing heavily from Browning’s background designing lever-action rifles. This is most obvious in the machine gun’s swinging arm, which earned the firearm the nickname the “Potato Digger.” Gas was diverted directly from the barrel to the piston that actuated the swinging arm, which then cycled the rifle much like a lever-action. This lead to one of the M1895’s greatest disadvantages, where it could be set up, since the arm required room to operate.

It might not have been perfect, but it certainly helped pushed machine gun designs in a new direction. As time wore on, the light, air-cooled machine gun continued to grow in military importance.

Gatling Gun

Long Guns of the Spanish-American War
Photo: Rock Island Auction Company

The Spanish-American War was the last great conflict the Gatling gun would take part in. Nearing a quarter-century of service, the heavy, hand-cranked beast’s days were numbered. Nimbler, more compact and faster-firing machine guns were beginning to dot the globe’s conflicts — including the one in Cuba and the Pacific. But even with its demise well within sight, the Gatling went out with a bang, acquitting itself admirably in the war, particularly at San Juan and Kettle hills.

Three Gatlings — 10-barrel, chambered in .30-40 Govt. — mounted on swivels provided much-needed support on the troops advance up the hills. In all, the guns fired a total of 18,000 rounds in a little over 8 minutes, pining down and devastating the Spanish troops. The damaged reeked by the Gatlings earned the highest praises of the soldiers who fought the battle, with Theodore Roosevelt stating he’d never want to fight another battle without one.

How To: Customizing The AR So It’s Race Ready

By
Steve Sieberts
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Given the ease of modification, there’s no reason you should be satisfied with a stock AR. Here’s a quick look at how to make your rifle race ready.

How to doll up your AR for the 3-Gun game:

The AR platform has proved to be one of the most successful ever designed. Within the last 10 to 15 years or so, the growth of the black rifle has exploded as more and more shooters have discovered how versatile it can be.

Since there have been many words written on customizing the AR-15 for a variety of uses, I’ll demonstrate a few simple custom modifications that are easily performed to make the AR shoot more accurately and to improve the ergonomics. Make no mistake, there are literally thousands of potential combinations of ways to set up an AR-15, and the following is but a small sample.

AR customizing

Basically, modifying an AR platform really comes down to improving the accuracy, trigger pull quality, and ergonomics, or the way the rifle interfaces with the shooter. For this project, DPMS was kind enough to supply me with a basic flat top. The DPMS has a Picatinny rail on top of the upper receiver for mounting a variety of optics, and is a good base gun with which to start. There are many manufacturers of AR platforms, including Colt, Bravo Company, Daniel Defense, Noveske Arms, and many, many others.

Since our project gun is to be used for 3-Gun competition and not tactical use, per se, we want the most accuracy we can get — to handle the tough shots out to 500 yards or so. A quick call to Brownells and I was able to secure a match-grade stainless barrel chambered in .223 Wylde, which allows you to fire both .223 and 5.56 ammunition in the same gun. I also received a muzzle brake, Magpul forend, pistol grip and buttstock, JP Enterprises adjustable trigger, and two sights — a C-More red dot and the Ultra Dot. Both optics are extremely popular in competitive shooting circles. I also acquired a Blackhawk! single-point sling and Magpul mounting hardware. Finally, a Surefire tactical light rounded out the mods for this gun.

Getting Started

First, the handguard is removed by pulling back on the retaining ring and lifting up and out. Sometimes, especially with a new rifle, the retaining spring under the retaining ring is quite stiff and may require brute force to remove. A helper tool like a tape-covered flat screwdriver blade can help. (When I was a Small Arms Tech in the 82nd Airborne Division, we would work on dozens and dozens of M16s each week and many handguards could be a real bear to remove if the rifles were new. Older ones did not have this issue as the spring had much less tension.)

Next, the pistol grip is removed using the screw inside the grip, but be careful: the pistol grip houses the spring and detent that provide tension to the safety selector. Always have a drawer full of various small parts for the AR-15 rifle, since it’s easy to lose them, and they wear out as well. Springs and detents are cheap, and replacement ensures the gun works as it’s supposed to without delay. On the same note, the AR, as well as other firearms, uses roll pins. These are OK for one-time use, but once removed they should be tossed and replaced. When driven into a hole, the cold-rolled steel pin fits via spring tension. Once removed, however, it will never have the same gripping power as when new. So, always toss roll pins and replace them with a new one every time you drive one out of a firearm.

To remove the buttstock, loosen the latch and pull down to slide the buttstock off the buttstock extension. Remove the bolt and bolt carrier by pushing the rear receiver hinge pin from left to right, unlatch the carrier handle and pull the bolt carrier and bolt handle out. Set them off to the side. You’ll take the bolt out later. The test rifle didn’t have a front sight, so, with the handguard off, remove the gas tube and gas block by driving out the retaining roll pin with a 1/16th-inch punch. Always start driving out pins with a short stubby starter punch, then use the longer pin punch to drive out completely. This keeps the punch from needing when encountering a stubborn pin, which will happen at some point. Clamp the gas tube in the padded vise and slide it forward and off the rifle.

AR-15 Barrel Removal

AR customizing

To remove the barrel, you’ll need a couple of special tools. The barrel block will hold the barrel securely, and the barrel nut tool will allow you to unscrew the barrel nut holding the barrel on. You may have to use a little bit of rosin on the vise blocks to keep the barrel from turning. Once the barrel nut starts to turn, unscrew it all the way off and remove the upper receiver. Since for this project we are using the same handguard mounting system as the original, and not installing a free floating barrel, keep the nut, spring and retainer and place them off to the side. Slide the upper receiver off of the barrel and set it off to the side as well.

Trigger Work

For the hammer and trigger, drive out the retaining pins for these two parts from either direction. Make sure you capture the disconnector that sits on the trigger as well. It’s spring loaded, although the spring should be captured by the trigger. The JP Enterprises trigger is fully adjustable for engagement and overtravel, and is an easy drop-in fit. It comes with an extended Allen wrench to make the adjustments, and will yield a clean, crisp trigger pull of about 3.5 lbs. Install the trigger with the disconnector by placing it under the safety selector, and driving the pin in from either direction. Replace the hammer with the hammer spring oriented correctly. The top loop goes behind the hammer, not in front. Push it down into the receiver and drive the retaining pin into place.

Modifying an AR

Always adjust the engagement first to make sure the rifle is safe, and then tweak the overtravel screw. JP Enterprises provides excellent instructions for installation. Once the trigger parts have been installed and adjusted, put a tiny amount of blue Loctite on the threads to keep the adjustments from moving during firing.

Once you have the trigger installed, check the engagement by holding the hammer back past the point where it engages the trigger; squeeze the trigger and release it, it should be captured by the disconnector. If not, you don’t have sufficient engagement. Once the engagement is set, adjust the overtravel screw to provide a firm stop just past the point at which the hammer is released by the trigger. For a competition or tactical rifle (or any firearms for that matter with an overtravel stop) do not set the stop too close, as dirt can get into the mechanism, preventing the firearm from firing. The trend now is to install modular trigger systems that have the hammer and trigger integrated into a single, drop-in unit, and there are several on the market from which to choose.

Installing the Match Barrel

The next step is to install the match barrel. Since we are keeping the original barrel nut and handguard retainer, simply install the barrel nut assembly onto the barrel, and slide the upper receiver on using the barrel nut wrench to tighten the barrel nut until the teeth line up so the gas tube will slip through the upper receiver and barrel nut assembly. Install the forend retainer cap and the gas block. This rifle is using a barrel that requires a mid-length gas tube and handguard assembly, so make sure you order the correct parts when building your rifle. There are three lengths; short, mid-length and extended. The barrel we used has fixed headspace, but you should always check for proper headspace in any new barrel with a correct GO gauge and the rifle bolt, with the ejector removed.

Customize the AR

Once the barrel is installed, secure the gas tube with the set screws using blue Loctite to ensure the gas block stays secure. Now, install the muzzle brake, again with blue Loctite. The pistol grip is installed, along with the safety spring and plunger. The Magpul buttstock has a latch and a lock installed on it. The latch is pulled down, allowing the buttstock to slide onto the buttstock extension. When the buttstock is at the length you desire, the locking latch is squeezed, which locks it in place.

Optics
AR optics

As mentioned at the outset, I opted for the C-More tactical railway model with an aluminum body and a click switch. I took the rifle to the range and put the rifle through its paces. Then, I brought the rifle home and switched to the Ultradot Match Dot. There are other sights out there that would be appropriate for 3-Gun from Leupold and Nightforce. Dot sights are superior for shorter range, while the Leupold rifle-type scopes work well at extended distances. I took the rifle back to the range and put about 300 rounds through it without issues. The AR platform is a great system because you can configure it in many different ways.

This article is an excerpt form Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms.

Video: Federal Premium Now Offering Bullets For Reloading

By
Gun Digest Editors
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0

Federal Premium has released bullets from its Trophy Bonded Tip and Syntech lines as individual reloading components.

  • The Trophy Bonded Tip is offered in these diameters: .308, .284 and .277.
  • The Syntech line is available in .400, .451 and .355 bullet diameters
  • The Syntech gives handloaders a solid target round option.
  • Federal also released its new Train + Protect round.
  • The Train + Protect is a defensive hollow point economical enough to use for practice.

As Gun Digest Editor Luke Hartle points out in the above video, there’s always a lot going on at Federal Premium Ammunition. But the monolithic ammo company’s latest venture might take the cake.

In a rare mid-year launch, Federal announced it is now making two lines of bullets available to reloaders. You heard that right; the company is taking on the out-and-out bullet biz, a boon for handloaders from Juneau to Jacksonville.

In some respects, this is a logical move by Federal Premium. The brand is owned by the same company that manufacturers RCBS Reloading. But, as Federal’s Justin Johnson goes into, it’s been a long time coming and an offering shooters have been demanding for years.

While the company is aiming to cover a wide spectrum of shooting interests, hunters will be especially heartened with Federal’s initial offerings. There is a slew Trophy Bonded Tip bullets coming down the pipeline. In all, six different bullets in three different diameters (.308, .284, .277) and five weights are being offered, more than enough options to cover the majority of North American game.

In addition to this, Federal is offering one of its most cutting-edge handgun bullets with the launch. Reloaders can now take advantage of Federal’s American Eagle Syntech line with .400, .451 and .355 bullet diameters available. The polymer-jacketed bullets increase barrel life by eliminating metal-on-metal contact, while retaining strong ballistic performance that make them a dandy practice option.

While Federal’s bullets steal the show, the company still is rolling out innovative ammunition. And it released an intriguing self-defense round in conjunction with its reloading components. Train + Protect arms shooters with an affordable hollow point defensive round that is cheap enough to also use for practice. Ingenious in its simplicity, Train + Protect is available in 9mm, .40 S&W and .45 ACP.

Check out the above video and find out the minutia of what Hartle uncovers at Federal. There’s a lot to load up with in the company’s most recent announcements.

Gun Review: YHM’s Hunt-Ready Carbine

By
Eric Conn
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0

Yankee Hill Machine’s new Hunt-Ready Carbine is a scoped and zeroed rifle, ready to shoot straight out of the box.

How this Yankee is ready for the hunt:

  • The Hunt-Ready Carbine is field-ready, with a 3-9x40mm Bushnell Trophy scope.
  • The scope comes already zeroed at 100 yards.
  • The rifle is available in three chamberings: 5.56 NATO, .300 BLK and 6.8 SPC II.
  • The carbine is accurate, with the average overall group at the range at 1.02 inches.

If there’s one thing I hate in life, it’s all the purchased items that I’ve got to assemble, configure, or, worst of all, consult the instructions about. IKEA be damned, I’m a fan of anything that requires little-to-no assembly, saves me time and allows me to enjoy the activity for which I obtained the item in the first place. It’s really no different when it comes to hunting — although I’m as big a fan as anyone of tinkering with my gear, I’d rather spend time actually hunting than trying to assemble, sight in and adjust the finely tuned components on a firearm.

YHM Hunt-Ready Carbine - 1

That’s where Yankee Hill Machine’s (YHM) new Hunt-Ready Carbine comes in handy. Chambered in several popular and effective hunting calibers — including 5.56 NATO, .300 BLK and 6.8 SPC II — the rifle comes topped with scope, sighted in at 100 yards, sling already attached and ready to rock. The rifle, which carries an MSRP of $1,579, comes topped with a 3-9×40 Bushnell Trophy scope featuring a mil-dot crosshair reticle.

Features
One of the most obvious features on the new Hunt-Ready Carbine is a Kryptek Highlander coating, which covers buttstock, receivers and handguard, and is well suited for coyote country. The rifle also comes with a Grovtech adjustable sling, which features a wide shoulder strap with plenty of padding for extended walks afield. The rifle is fairly light, however, coming in at right around 8½ pounds with scope (unloaded).

YHM Hunt-Ready Carbine - optic

While the particular rifle I tested came with a 1:9-inch twist rate, YHM also offers the Hunt-Ready Carbine with a 16-inch barrel with a 1:7-inch twist, perfect if you’re trying to stabilize heavier hunting bullets. For coyotes and anything I’d use the .223 Remington for, however, the mid-sized bullets — say around 40-55-grains — are more than adequate, as is the 1:9-inch twist rate.

The heat-treated steel barrel is diamond-cut to help cut down on weight, and it also features a low-profile gas block. A rifle-length handguard with M-LOK compatibility is ergonomically well suited for hunting, having no jagged or rough edges, and offering plenty of different setups afield.

YHM Hunt-Ready Carbine - muzzle device

YHM conveniently provides a forward assist with standard right-handed controls and a six-position M4 buttstock. The barrel is topped with a Phantom 5C2 flash hider/compensator that allows for rapid follow-up shots on game, something that’s particularly helpful if you’re trying to grab more than one coyote in a set or polish off an entire prairie dog town.

The Hunt-Ready Carbine comes with a Bushnell scope, as stated above, which is more than adequate for the range of the .223 cartridge. The scope comes with a YHM-246 one-piece scope mount, made from aircraft-grade aluminum and hardcoat anodized. Offset, the scope mount allows users to mount farther forward on the rail, optimizing eye relief for a wider variety of shooters.

YHM - Hunt-Ready Carbine - 5

For the sake of testing multiple optics on the rifle, I also included a Burris XTR II 1-8x24mm scope in the review. For mounting, I used a Burris P.E.P.R. mount with 30mm rings. With 11 different illuminated reticle settings (adjustable on the lefthand turret) and a milrad elevation turret, the XTR II is easily and quickly adjustable (all dials, including magnification, feature aggressive texturing for a no-slip grip) and makes an extremely useful long- or short-range optic for the AR.

At the Range
To see just how well the rifle lived up to the Hunt-Ready claim, I took it straight from my FFL to the range, loaded some mags and went to work with the Bushnell scope. I accuracy tested the rifle with three different loads and bullet types, including Hornady’s 40-grain V-Max, American Eagle’s 50-grain JHP and Nosler’s 55-grain, tipped Varmageddon load.

YHM - Hunt-Ready Carbine - target

Hornady’s V-Max load is one I turn to frequently for predator applications, as it’s always a top performer. It lived up to its reputation with this rifle, producing a best group of .599 inches from a Caldwell B.R. Pivot shooting bench and Lead Sled. The average group, taken from three, three-shot groups, was an impressive .885 inches — more than enough to slay ‘yotes or other predators out to 300-400 yards. Nosler’s 55-grain Varmageddon produced a best group of .647 inches, with an average group of .877 inches — quite respectable, and better than MOA at 100 yards. Finally, for a budget-friendly load, I tested Federal’s American Eagle 50-grain JHP. I’ve killed numerous predators with the load in .223 and .22-250, and have never been disappointed with accuracy, especially for a bulk load. Testing proved that anecdotal evidence true, with AE loads producing a best group of .487 inches, the best among the day’s accuracy data, and an overall group size of 1.02 inches.

With a good trigger and a respectable scope, the Hunt-Ready rifle from YHM is clearly more than capable of producing game-stopping accuracy, and more. I’d certainly have no hesitation about taking it afield and stretching the distance on predators.

Parting Shots

YHM claims its new rifle is ready out of the box, and I have to say I concur. It has a good trigger, produces repeatable accuracy and aptly handled a number of different loads, all without fail. Per YHM’s claim, the rifle really was zeroed at 100 yards, and the Bushnell Trophy 3-9x40mm scope was more than adequate for the job at hand. With a fairly reasonable price tag given the package ($1,579), this is a rifle every hunter should seriously consider.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

How-To: Installing A Free-Floated Handguard On Your AR-15

By
Kevin Muramatsu
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0

Upgrading from a standard to a free-floated handguard can increase your AR-15’s accuracy potential, and it isn’t difficult following this procedure.

How to swap out for a free-floated handguard:

  • Remove upper receiver and pull back delta rings to remove standard handguard.
  • Remove retaining pins from the A-Frame — after the gas tube is removed.
  • Use a special bench block to keep rest of upper elevated.
  • Once pins are removed, gas block collar should slide off the barrel.
  • Upon removing barrel retainer nut, new free-floated handguard is ready.
  • Before new handguard is fitted, a new minimized gas block must be installed.
  • Once the gas system is in place, tighten handguard onto nut.

This is the typical process to change a standard handguard to a free-floated handguard. Start with no lower assembly. The upper assembly should be detached and in a bench vise. You will want to use your upper receiver blocks for this entire sequence.

The first thing is to pull back on the delta ring to remove the lower piece. It just seems easier usually to do the bottom first. The piece should be lowered from the back and then pulled out of the cup at the front. Follow this up by then removing the top piece. You should now see an upper assembly with no handguard, with the barrel and gas tube naked and exposed to all creation. This is way easy with a forend/handguard tool. I will restate that I prefer to remove the gas tube at this time as well, so as not to risk banging it up when we start banging on the front sight block.

You will have to remove the front sight’s tapered retaining pins from the bottom of the A-frame. They are TAPERED, which means they only go out one way, and some companies think it’s just the coolest thing ever to really, really jam those things in there. Granted, you don’t ever want them coming out without actually wanting them to come out, but they are often in there so tight that you might have to cut or drill them out. We’re talking baby bunny under a porch step here.

Sometimes you can get them out by putting the barrel or the sight tower in the vise, and most times you can get them out using a specialty bench block. I wish I could tell you a universal way to get them out easily, but I can’t. Some are relatively easy, and some aren’t.

The specialty bench block to which I refer is the front sight bench block that Brownells sells. It is machined out so that the front sight tower will fit either way into it and you can hammer out the pins; it even has directions on it.

You will want to support the rest of the upper on a similarly elevated surface for ease of use. By the way, they virtually always go out from left to right. There is a noticeable difference in diameter, left to right. Use a short, thick punch to get them started and then a longer punch to finish pushing them out to the right. The front sight tower may be quite tightly attached still, so a little twisting and possibly a little propane heat on the tower rings may be in order.

Once it is off the gas block collar of the barrel, it should easily slide off the muzzle, assuming you have removed whatever muzzle device might be present. It can however be on tightly and require a little heat to expand the rings. Take care to not kink the gas tube if you left it in place. If you twist the assembly too far with the gas tube installed, you will likely damage the tube. It’s supposed to have a bend in it but not more than it started with. Honestly, it’s best to remove the tube before you play with the block, but not necessarily mandatory.

Now the barrel should be clear of stuff. If by chance there is something still on the barrel, now would be the time to remove it. Since we are assuming a standard rifle upper here, there should not be anything else there.

Here is where you take your handy dandy action wrench to remove the barrel retainer nut. Once that is done, you are ready to install your new handguard. Let’s for the sake of argument say that it is a JP Enterprises Modular handguard. This is one of the less common styles of handguard, using both inner and outer retainer nuts.

The outer nut is screwed onto the receiver, often with thread locking compound to hold it in place in alignment while the inner nut is tightened against the barrel extension. The same amount of torque is used to secure the nut as a normal nut, around 30–100 ft/lbs of torque, and if you don’t know what that feels like, then you should borrow a torque wrench from your buddy in the auto shop.

In the case of this JP handguard, the body of the unit is a simple extruded tube with slots cut in it for ventilation. The rear end of the tube is counter-bored to accept the outer handguard nut and has six holes around it to fasten it to the nut. However, since we are replacing a carbine-length standard handguard with a rifle-length free-floating handguard, we now have to install a minimized gas block first, since it is going to be fully inside the confines of the tube and virtually impossible to install correctly with the tube emplaced. If you are going to install accessory rails to this tube, this too should be done before the tube is attached.

This JP tube uses six flat head screws to hold the tube to the nut. The tube can inadvertently be installed upside down, so don’t do that. With these six screws attached, you are pretty much ready to go, as long as you remembered to install the gas tube and gas block.

Of course, you no longer have a front sight. Perhaps you decided that you don’t really want one and you are going to use only optics. OK, so you’re one of those…people. Well, I guess that’s OK, and you can stop here, since your super optic mega scope will take care of everything. If you aren’t one of those…people, then you can still mount a front sight to the front end of the handguard tube. JP sells partial or full sized rails for that purpose. Flip up sights can still be used effectively with optics, and particularly offset sights are a good choice for rifles with high magnification scopes used as the primary sighting device. 

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest Guide to Customizing Your AR-15.

Hot New Concealed Carry Gear For Personal Defense

By
David Hart
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1

Here’s some of the latest new concealed carry gear to help stack the odds in your favor.

What are some great new carry gear products to give you the edge in a defensive scenario?

Owning a carry gun isn’t the same as actually carrying it. In fact, new concealed carry gun owners often don’t know where or how to carry, so they end up leaving their new handgun at home — and that could be a fatal mistake.

The good news is that there are countless choices when it comes to carrying comfortably and discreetly. Whether you want to tuck your gun inside your waistband — or even wear a shirt or pair of pants designed specifically for those of us who refuse to be victims — there’s something out there for everyone. A growing number of companies are making clothing just for women who carry concealed, too.

Check out the list below, and remember: If you’re going to own and train with a carry gun, you might as well carry it, too. Find something that works for you … and use it.

carry gear - 511 Tactical Defender Jeans5.11 Tactical Defender Jeans
Carry in comfort with 5.11 Tactical’s Defender Flex denim jeans. Made with an innovative 10-ounce cotton/polyester stretch denim, you’ll have more freedom of movement, more comfort and more confidence when you carry, no matter where you go. The Defender Flex jeans are built with reinforced stitching and bar tacks in the high-stress areas, a button-top fly and locking YKK zipper, fitted waistband, five-pocket styling and dual back patch pockets. They’re available in straight or slim fit to accommodate any body shape. ($69.99; 511Tactical.com)

Carry gear - Alien Gear CLoak DockAlien Gear Cloak Dock
It’s near impossible to wear your concealed carry gun every second of the day, but you still want to keep it concealed when it’s not on you. Alien Gear’s new Cloak Dock allows you to attach your Alien Gear Cloak Tuck IWB holster anywhere you want. Attach the holster dock under your desk, your nightstand — even your vehicle — to keep your favorite carry gun just a quick reach away. It’s made with highest-quality engineered polymer and mounts to almost any structurally sound surface. The Cloak Dock comes with two mounting brackets, hardware and a drill bit for easy installation. ($11.88; AlienGearHolsters.com)

Carry gear - black hills honey badgerBlack Hills Honey Badger Ammo
When your life is on the line, nothing matters more than bullet performance. Black Hills Honey Badger ammo isn’t just hard hitting — the unique fluted bullet design cuts through barriers without over-penetrating. The non-expanding bullets, designed in concert with Lehigh Defense, create larger and deeper wound channels and perform flawlessly when you need it most. New options include 125-grain 9mm, 135-grain 45 ACP and a 160-grain 44 Magnum. (Black-Hills.com)

 

Blackhawk TacFlow - carry gearBlackhawk TacFlow Shirt
What good is your concealed carry gun if you can’t reach it when you need it most? With Blackhawk’s TacFlow shirt, you’ll not only be able to carry discreetly, you can draw in the blink of an eye. It’s not only made with a breathable, quick-dry fabric, it’s built with reinforced heat-seal taping along high-stress points for durability. Even better, the fabric obscures the outline of your holster and carry gun, allowing you to not only to carry in style, but to also carry discreetly. A breakaway snap placket allows for near-instant access, too. Available in three colors and sizes S through 2XL. ($89.99; Blackhawk.com)

carry gear - Clinger Comfort ClingClinger Comfort Cling Holster
It’s no secret that guns are hard. But toting a carry gun doesn’t have to be, thanks to Clinger’s Comfort Cling holster. The clipless holster is built with three special-purpose layers, including a non-slip exterior layer that holds your carry gun exactly where you want it without slipping, shifting or otherwise moving. The middle layer is made with comfort in mind and uses a gel-like material that softens hard edges for all-day comfort, and the interior layer is built so you can draw fast without friction, hang-ups or other delays. ($19.99; ClingerHolsters.com)

Carry gear - DeSantis RaptorDeSantis Raptor Holster
Perfect for either inside the waistband (IWB) or outside the waistband (OWB) carry, the DeSantis Raptor holster is made from thermoformed Kydex that will last a lifetime. It’s constructed with a pre-formed, curved back and has most of the detailed molding on the outer portion of the holster for maximum comfort and concealability. The Raptor holster comes with 1.5- and 1.75-inch belt loops and soft polymer straps for IWB comfort. It also features a rear sweat guard and a trigger guard detent. The Raptor is available for seven Glock models and one S&W gun. ($79.99; DeSantisHolster.com)

Carry Gear - SIG Sauer fmjSIG Sauer Elite Performance 9mm FMJ
High-quality concealed carry ammo can be expensive, so why burn through it at the range when you can shoot a near-identical bullet for a fraction of the cost? SIG’s new full-metal jacket ammo is identical in weight to its popular and effective V-Crown personal defense ammo, but it’s less than half the cost. That gives you the exact same feel as you’d get if you practiced with the more expensive carry ammo. The more you shoot, the better you’ll shoot when accuracy counts. The 9mm FMJ loads are available in three options that match the V-Crown jacketed hollow-point: 115-, 124- and 147-grain projectiles.
($19; SIGSauer.com)

Carry gear - federal hstFederal HST Micro .38 Special Ammo
Too much bullet for too little gun can lead to flinching — and that can lead to trouble for you. Federal’s HST Micro ammo is designed specifically for small carry guns and includes deep bullet seating that eliminates inconsistent powder burn rates. The proven HST bullets are fully capable of performing under pressure and offer ideal penetration and expansion without over-penetrating. Originally available in .380 Auto and 9mm, Federal expanded the line to include .38 Special in a 130-grain +P load. ($30.95; FederalPremium.com)

Carry gear - Rothco CC JacketRothco Concealed Carry Jacket
Stay warm, look good and be safe — all in one versatile jacket. Rothco’s CC Jacket is made not just to help you stay warm and safe at the same time, but also so you can reach your concealed gun fast. It’s built with two inner pockets made specifically for your favorite carry gun, plus two inner magazine pockets. All inside pockets are identical and are built on both sides, making the jacket a must-have for left- and right-handed shooters alike. The jacket is made from a lightweight cotton/poly blend and comes with two zippered front, outside pockets and adjustable button wrist closures. ($81.99; RothCo.com)

Carry gear - VersacarryVersacarry Pro Holster
Concealed carry holsters don’t need bells and whistles, which is why the Versacarry Pro might be the perfect holster. The no-frills concealed carry holster has all the features you need without the gimmicks and add-ons you don’t. It’s made with a self-molding, dual comfort guard design, reducing user contact with sharp edges. And, it’s built with super-strong neodymium magnets sewn into the lining for solid, reliable closure and a super-fast draw. The Versacarry Pro fits belts up to 1.5 inches wide and can be worn inside or outside the waistband. ($39.99; Versacarry.com)

 

Carry gear - SnagMag SnagMag Mag Holster
The SnagMag provides an easy, comfortable and discreet way to carry an extra handgun magazine. The unique magazine holster is designed to be carried in your support-side front pocket (left side for right-handed shooters, right side for left-handed shooters). The SnagMag remains firmly in position by use of a pocket clip that creates the appearance of a pocket knife. Your magazine slides out easily while the SnagMag remains in place, allowing for fast, trouble-free reloads. SnagMag models are available to accommodate nearly every handgun magazine on the market today. ($34.95; SnagMag.com)

 

Carry gear - Galco KingTuk AirGalco King Tuk Air Holster
You don’t have to be uncomfortable while carrying in hot, humid weather. Galco’s new King Tuk Air allows you to carry in comfort, no matter what the weather is like. It combines Galco’s world-famous high-quality rigid Kydex holster pocket with a ventilated, full-grain steer hide back plate for cooler, more comfortable concealment. The IWB holster has removable metal belt clips that can be adjusted up or down, allowing for the perfect height and angle. It’s available for popular models such as Glock, SIG, S&W and Springfield. ($59.95; GalcoGunleather.com)

 

Carry gear - UnderTech LeggingsUnderTech Women’s UnderCover Zip-Pocket Leggings
Look great and stay safe in leggings — yes, leggings — thanks to UnderTech’s Zip-Pocket Leggings. Made especially for women who never leave home without their favorite handgun, these two-holster leggings are ideal for either left- or right-hand draw. The pants come with two fashionable zippered pockets and a unique, comfortable waistband designed to eliminate “muffin-topping,” thanks to mid-weight compression. ($109.99; UnderTechUnderCover.com)

Carry gear - UltiClip XLUltiClip XL
Retention is crucial when carrying concealed, and UltiClip’s new XL draws on the manufacturer’s award winning, patent-pending retention system found on earlier versions. The UltiClip XL serves as both a multi-tool holster clip and a locking steel belt loop. The locking belt loop allows the user to carry a holster, knife sheath or accessory inside the waistband, outside the waistband or even without a belt. The XL’s multi-tool has a screwdriver and multi-stage wrench, and the device’s unique bracket permits adjustments to ride height or to rotate or reverse the item being carried. The XL uses high-quality spring steel and is rated at more than 200,000 pounds per square inch tensile strength. ($14.99; UltiClip.com)

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the 2017 Concealed Carry special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Are .357 Magnum Snubnose Revolvers Still Relevant For Carry?

By
Robert Sadowski
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5

Are .357 Magnum snubnose revolvers still a good choice for those who carry?

  • Snubnose revolvers are usually fairly concealable.
  • The .357 Magnum is plenty adequate to deal with human threats.
  • The revolver’s self-contained design is simple and reliable.
  • Revolvers function even in contact with clothing and don’t require a strong grip.
  • Clearing an ammo-induced stoppage is as easy as pulling the trigger again.

357 Snubnose Revolvers - 7There’s no sign that big-bore snubnose revolvers like the .357 Magnum are going away any time soon, especially with manufacturers continuing to introduce new models. Really? We use smartphones today, not rotary dial phones. Aren’t snubnose revolvers today’s equivalent of rotary dial phones? In an age of polymer striker-fired semi-automatic pistols with double-stack magazines that you can get in nearly any color you want, it seems an odd phenomenon that revolvers still exist.

Why are so many snubnose revolvers still being manufactured? With all the compact semi-automatic pistols available, it seems that revolvers would be almost irrelevant — lethal paperweights, a dust-collecting wall hanger. But manufacturers like Charter Arms, Smith & Wesson, Ruger and Taurus keep churning them out, and we still keep buying them. Even Kimber, an innovator in semi-automatic pistol platforms, recently introduced the K6s revolver. Ruger’s LCR platform now includes the LCRx revolver in .357 Magnum.

Meanwhile, Smith & Wesson, Taurus and Charter Arms have been tweaking their snubnose models in an assortment of calibers, but mostly in .38 Special and .357 Magnum. S&W also introduced a new Model 360 J-Frame revolver to its line, and Colt even got back in the snubnose game with a new Cobra made for the 21st century.

So, what gives? The simple answer is manufacturers are supplying demand for these hand cannons.

357 Magnum Snubnose Revolvers - 2Revolvers are dated, but they are a proven platform with lots of virtues. These include their ease of use, their inherent safety, their self-contained design which doesn’t leave a mess behind, and — probably the most important virtue in some models — their use of the potent .357 Magnum cartridge. Those virtues create a bottom-line advantage, which is simplicity. Just load, point and shoot. There’s no slide to rack, no magazine to load, no safety or de-cocking levers like with a semi-automatic pistol. Just load the cylinder, snap it back in place, and it’s good to go. The design is self-contained in the fact that there’s no magazine to insert or lose in tall grass, snow or sand. Because you need to manually unload a revolver, there’s no mess or empty cases rolling around to leave behind unless you want to; this is particularly advantageous to those who choose to reload.

A revolver is also often the perfect firearm for new shooters, with fewer moving parts, easier loading and no need to pull back a slide. Snubnose revolvers are small and easy to place in alternate positions such as ankle holsters, and they are often chosen as a reliable and powerful back-up gun for defensive work.

Revolvers offer functional advantages over semi-automatics, too. They don’t require a strong grip to ensure reliable function; they function reliably when in contact with clothing, which can restrain a semi-automatic pistol’s slide from cycling properly and fully returning to battery. Clearing an ammunition-induced stoppage with a revolver is as simple as pressing the trigger again.

357 Magnum Snubnose revolvers - 5Tweaking The Snubnose Magnum Design

From Kimber’s and Ruger’s perspectives, this old technology needed a fresh set of eyes. Their new revolver redesigns offer key features today’s firearms owners and concealed carry holders are looking for — reduced weight, better ergonomics and a smoother and consistent trigger with no stacking. There’s no doubt that the K6s and LCRx allow a shooter to be more effective than with conventional snubnose revolvers. The designs also help in managing recoil, which is especially relevant with the .357 Magnum. The LCRx, for instance, allows a user to grasp the revolver higher so the trigger is easier to press and there’s less muzzle flip.

The .357 Magnum round is not new either. When the .357 Magnum cartridge debuted, it was nothing less than awe inspiring. It’s been around since 1935, and it quickly became one of the most popular revolver cartridges for hunting, target and police work prior to LE transitioning to semi-automatic pistols. The .357 Magnum has a lot of history and street experience. Many law enforcement agencies issued .357 Magnum revolvers because the round provided better penetration than the .38 Special.

When hollow-point bullets became more popular, the .357 Magnum helped prove the concept of a small entry hole with expansion that doubles the diameter size of the projectile. In a snubnose revolver, the cartridge brings excellent firepower with nearly double the penetration and more velocity than a 9mm load with comparable bullet weight. The sweet spots for the .357 Magnum are 125- and 158-grain bullet weights.

357 Magnum Snubnose Revolvers - 6Review law enforcement data, and you’ll find deadly encounters predominantly happen at just a few paces. Check out ballistic data, and you’ll find the .357 Magnum is a hot round, especially compared to the most popular cartridge today: the 9mm.

I can hear what you’re thinking: I can carry and get more bullets downrange with a 9mm with less recoil and better shot recovery. Yes, those are valid points. Read the FBI data closely and you’ll find that in most officer-offender shootings — similar to what a CC holder will encounter — there are typically two to three rounds fired at a distance of 5 feet. At 5 feet, the .357 Magnum round is formidable even though the round is plenty lethal out to ranges that tax the abilities of a snubnose revolver. With fixed sights and a short barrel, the snubnose is a close-range weapon, which makes it a perfect candidate for concealed carry holders.

For fast reloads, I carry a Quickstrip from Tuff Products. It’s a flexible strip of rubber that holds five cartridges. I’ve found that if I load two at a time, the process is quick. The weight of the Quickstrip is the same as five cartridges, and there’s no bulk. It’s not as fast as loading a pistol with a magazine, but comes in just a few seconds behind. They also come in eight-round strips. I keep one Quickstrip loaded with shot cartridges for snakes.

Shooting a snubnose chambered in .357 Magnum is an experience. Stout is a polite way to refer to the recoil. I’m embarrassed to write the expletive phrases that spewed from my mouth the first time I fired .357 Magnum loads through a lightweight snubnose. I’ll paraphrase: Ouch.

These are not revolvers you want a novice shooter to begin with. These are hand cannons … but I truly believe that if I need to fire one of these lightweight cannons during a violent encounter, I will have no recollection of the recoil. Adrenaline will do that to you. The Ruger LCRx weighs 17 ounces unloaded. Do you remember inertia from high school physics? Right. All that energy from the fired .357 Magnum round needs to go somewhere, and the Hogue Tamer does a good job of helping you hang onto the revolver. With lighter .38 Special loads, the recoil is tolerable.

357 Snubnose Revolvers - 3Snubby Revolvers To Bet On

My S&W J-frame Model 649 is a full-metal revolver with a 2.125-inch barrel. Slightly larger and heavier than the LCRx, it manages recoil better. Both have exceptionally smooth triggers in double action and the ability to cock the revolver to fire it single action. They also slip into a coat or pants pocket. I’ve been carrying the LCRx in a Galco Triton Kydex IWB holster. In appendix or behind the hip, I like this setup because it is lightweight and I can slide it on or off quickly. I’ve been wearing 5.11 Defender-Flex jeans because the fabric offers a little stretch, making IWB carry more comfortable.

One of my favorite .357 Magnum snubbies is the S&W Model 327. The Model 327 is made with a scandium N-frame, steel barrel sleeve and a titanium cylinder and barrel shroud. This is a very lightweight revolver at only 24.7 ounces loaded. It holds 8 rounds. That’s a round capacity similar to many single-stack 9mm pistols.

S&W’s 686 and 627 models offer 7- and 8-round capacities, respectively. These are heavier and larger, but that liability is also an asset since they are easier to shoot. Although a concealable N-frame is almost an oxymoron, with the correct holster — I use a Galco Combat Master holster — the 327 is easy on the hip. The holster’s open-top design allows fast access to the revolver. Because it’s a belt holster, I wear an unbuttoned shirt or a coat to conceal it.

Since I’ve moved south of the Mason-Dixon Line, there are plenty of snakes that have wanted to make my acquaintance. Although the .357 Magnum is a formidable round, it’s also versatile because you can fire .38 Special cartridges in a .357 Magnum revolver. A revolver loaded with CCI shot cartridges helps keep the viper relations on good terms and at distances of 10 feet. I would much rather train and practice with .38 Special loads in these small snubnose revolvers.

357 Magnum Snubnose Revolvers - 1The LCRx and S&W 649 are both lightweight, so it’s very comfortable to conceal carry either of them. The Model 327 takes slightly more effort. I’ve also encountered my first black bear down here, and the Model 327 is what I wear when hiking in the woods. Nature or manmade deadly encounters are easily met with a .357 Magnum. Sure, the smaller models only hold five shots, but stoked with .357 Magnum cartridges, they still make the 9mm look anemic. I still carry my 9mm often, but my stable of .357 Magnum snubbies are routinely rotated into my daily carry, depending on my activity.

It might seem odd that snubnose revolvers are still alive and kicking — especially in .357 Magnum — but once you shoot one and carry it, you understand the understated simplicity of the revolver platform. In my opinion, there’s no compromise carrying a .357 Magnum snubnose.

Go to any gun shop and you’ll find a massive assortment of semi-automatic pistols — full size to subcompact, and micro and in calibers that range from .380 ACP and 9mm to .45 ACP. Then you will see them. The snubnose revolvers will be tucked away, not given a lot of display space, as if they’re almost an afterthought. Really? I say the .357 Magnum snubnose revolver is going through a renaissance. Reports of their death have been greatly exaggerated.
Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the Fall 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Other Great Reads on the .357 Magnum

Classic Guns: Browning Superposed Over/Under

By
Jerry Lee
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2

John M. Browning’s last design before his passing, the Browning Superposed, is a fine over/under shotgun that holds a good deal of collector value.

What makes the Browning Superposed a collectible item?

  • The Superposed was John Browning’s final design before his passing in 1926.
  • There are a number of different variations and grades of the Superposed.
  • The higher-grade Superposed models sport classy engravings and fine wood.
  • During the ’70s, production was cut back and the Superposed became a limited production model.
  • Since the mid ’80s, the Superposed has only been offered as a custom shop item.

That amazing genius John M. Browning gave us many of America’s most revered firearms: several Winchester lever guns, Colt pistols like the 1911 and the first successful semi-auto shotgun, the Auto-5. Around 1920, he started making plans to design something not available to American shooters: a high-quality, affordable over/under shotgun, which was his last design and final legacy to the gun world.

Browning Superposed 1The side-by-side shotgun was still very popular at the time, but the over/under had never developed a large following in the U.S. Browning liked the over/under’s single sighting plane and was convinced American shooters would too, as the country was often called “a nation of riflemen.” The over/under was popular in Europe, where guns were custom made and expensive.

Browning wasn’t just a great designer, but also a smart businessman. For this shotgun to be a success, he knew it needed the best workmanship possible for high-quantity production. His goal was a price under $150, much less than handmade European guns but still a lot at a time when prices for many classic American side-by-sides were less than $50.

In the early ‘20s, Browning started on his Superposed shotgun. He was familiar with the various European designs and wanted to make improvements. It was a slow process, and it was 1926 before his design was finished and a patent applied for and granted.

Browning had a long relationship with FN in Belgium. It had manufactured several of his designs, and had agreed to produce the Superposed. In late 1926, he traveled to Liege with his son Val to work on the final details of his design, but he never lived to see it produced. On November 26, 1926, Browning died of an apparent heart attack in his office at FN.

Browning Superposed - 2
Image Courtesy AR.

There was still work to do before production of the Superposed could start, and Val Browning overtook the project. There were problems with several key features that needed to be addressed, including the trigger system, the selective automatic ejectors and the fit and finish quality. Another was the unique fore-end system by which the barrels could be removed from the action without detaching the fore-end. These issues were resolved, and in 1931, the gun went into production. It was offered in four grades: standard or Grade 1, Pigeon, Diana and Midas, each with higher levels of engraving and grades of wood. The Grade 1 base price was $107.50, with the higher grades ranging from $175 to $374.

The Grade 1 model had double triggers. For $137.50, the buyer had a choice of a single trigger (selective or non-selective) or a new design by Val Browning called the Twin-Single trigger. This system had two triggers, each of which essentially a non-selective trigger firing one barrel with the first pull and the other with the second. The front trigger fired the lower barrel first, and the rear fired the top barrel first.

The Twin-Single was clever and offered shooters a quick choice of chokes, depending on the distance and direction of a target. However, it was not a popular option with many shooters and was phased out when a new single-selective trigger was developed, again by Val Browning.

Browning Superposed 3
Image Courtesy Rock Island Auction Company.

Another variation came along in 1936 with the Lightning Superposed. It weighed around 6.75 pounds, compared to 7.5 pounds for the 12-gauge.

The Superposed’s timing was not great. The Depression was well underway in 1931, and to remain competitive, in 1934, the base price was reduced to $99.50, and the next year to $69.75. The pre-war price stabilized at $79.80 until Germany invaded Belgium and took over the FN factory.

After World War II, FN returned to the manufacture of Browning sporting arms, first with the Auto-5 in 1946 and then the Superposed in 1948. The 12-gauge over/under was basically the same as the pre-war version but available only in Grade 1. It was priced much higher, at $241. Then, in 1949, the 20-gauge was introduced with a slimmer frame and a lighter weight of about 6.5 pounds. The ‘50s saw an expansion of Superposed variations, including magnum, trap and skeet models. Some collectors consider the 1950s to be the period of the best quality for the Superposed.

Browning Superposed - 4
Image Courtesy Rock Island Auction Company.

In 1959, fans of the smaller gauges were thrilled when the .410 bore and 28-gauge models were introduced. For some reason, other than one prototype, no Superposed was ever chambered for the 16 gauge.

Prices for Browning firearms saw big increases in the 60s, mostly due to labor problems in Belgium. By 1969, the Superposed Grade 1’s base price started at $435. To hold prices down, Browning made changes, mostly cosmetic. These included things like reducing the length of the trigger guard tang and the shape of the grip in 1966. Collector interest today is affected by these changes, with slightly higher values given for the “long tang, round knob” models.

In the ’70s, inflation was a problem in much of the world, including Belgium. The Grade I price reached $1,100 by 1976. Browning had unveiled the made-in-Japan Citori in 1973, a well-made production gun priced at less than $400. The writing was on the wall. Browning executives realized that for the Superposed to continue at the same level of quality, it would need to become a presentation grade, limited production item. In 1977, four grades were introduced, Presentation Models P1 to P4, with increasing levels of engraving, gold inlays and wood quality. Prices ran from $3,000 to $6,000. The P-series Superposed remained in production until 1985. From the mid-80s until today, the Browning Custom Shop in Belgium has continued to build numerous variations of John Browning’s favorite creation.

Editor’s Note: This “Collector’s Corner” column is an excerpt from the July 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

New Gun: Springfield EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour In .40 S&W

By
Elwood Shelton
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0

Springfield recently released the EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour in .40 S&W, giving shooters a more powerful iteration of the slim and lightweight 1911.

  • This EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour has the same concealable design as the 9mm.
  • As with prior Concealed Carry Contour models, the grip has been trimmed.
  • The heel and mainspring housing have been rounded to minimize printing.
  • The EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour weighs 37 ounces empty.

Given it remains the hottest end of the firearms market, options abound when it comes to concealed carry pistols. Almost every newfangled sidearm released in recent years has been driven by self-defense: enter the Springfield EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour.

And for certain people, time-tested technology reigns supreme.

That’s the exact type of shooter Springfield was aiming at when it released its EMP (Enhanced Micro Pistol) line in 2016. Decked out for serious concealed carry duty, the compact and lightweight 1911 has struck a chord with dedicated fans of John M. Browning’s brainchild. And Springfield has been quick to jump on this success, expanding EMP options at the start of this year.

Springfield EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour in .40 S&W

In addition to releasing a 4-inch barreled model at SHOT 2017 — the EMP 4 — it also has introduced a concealed carry-optimized variation of the larger 1911 — the Concealed Carry Contour.

Initially, the EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour was available in 9mm, but recently Springfield announced it’s offering a chambering for those shooting to go bigger. The EMP 4 is now available in the middle-ground .40 S&W, but still decked out with all the features that make it a solid carry option.

In particular, the Concealed Carry Contour has the smooth lines that make it a snap to conceal, and at the same time it’s more comfortable to have on the hip all day long. To this end, Springfield has rounded the pistol’s heel and mainspring housing, which have a tendency to print through clothing and bite into the side.

The small but significant design modifications enhance the single stack’s overall slim dimensions — right around an inch in width. Furthermore, originally designed around the 9mm, the pistol boasts a trimmed down grip frame, not only making it easier to conceal, but also to get a firm grip on. Topping it all off are slim G10 grip panels that not only keep the pistol svelte, but also add a striking look to the Concealed Carry Contour’s overall aesthetics.

Springfield EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour in .40 S&W side view

However, the .40 S&W EMP 4 does come in a bit heavier than the 9mm version, tipping the scales at 37 ounces unloaded. This is due to the chambering, which forced Springfield to switch from the 9mm’s aluminum frame to carbon steel to handle the .40 S&W’s more powerful recoil.

The 1911 comes outfitted with a number of other desirable features: bull barrel, second-gen speed trigger, fiber-optic front and low-profile combat rear sights, and Black-T finish on the frame. And the .40 S&W comes with three eight-round steel magazines.

As is typical with most 1911s, the EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour is a bit more spendy than most self-defense pistols, with an MSRP of $1,220. But for those searching for a tried-and-true design and optimized to go undercover, the price tag could prove a pittance.

Specifications:

Springfield EMP 4 Concealed Carry Contour
Caliber:.40 S&W
Recoil System: Flat Wire w/ Full Length Guide Rod
Sights: Fiber Optic Front & Low Profile Combat Rear
Weight: 37 oz., empty
Height: 5.5 in.
Slide: Forged Stainless Steel, Satin Finish
Barrel: 4 in. Stainless Steel Match Grade, Full Supported Ramp, Bull; 1:16 LH; 6-Groove
Overall Length: 7.5 in.
Grip Pannels: G-10
Frame: Forged Carbon Steel w/ Concealed Carry Contour, Black-T Finish
Magazine: 3, 8-Round, Blued
MSRP: $1,220

Video: Understanding Barrel Twist Rate

By
Gun Digest Editors
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1

Gun Digest Contributor Phil Massaro takes us through the basics of understanding barrel twist rate.

What is twist rate, and why is it important in selecting the right bullet and rifle for your intended purpose?

  • Twist rate is the ratio of how tight the rifling spirals are in your barrel.
  • Twist rates are expressed by a ratio that starts with 1 (1:7, 1:10, 1:14, etc.).
  • Tighter, faster twist rates are needed to stabilize longer, heavier bullets.
  • When a longer bullet encounters a slow twist rate, it becomes unstable.
  • This affects the trajectory and the way the bullet impacts the target.

Most shooters, even those relatively new to the sport, have heard of or are familiar with “twist rate” in some way, even if it’s just by looking at the ratio stamped onto a rifle’s barrel. However, if you intend to get the most out of your rifle, it’s something you need to know and understand.

In the video above, Gun Digest Contributor Phil Massaro explains the basics of twist rate. In short, he says, twist rate is a ratio describing how tight the spirals, or rifling, are in your rifle’s barrel.

This is important because some twist rates, especially those referred to as “slow” or “slower” — which translates to fewer rotations before the bullet exits the barrel — don’t provide enough rotation to properly stabilize longer, heavier bullets. A lot of great varmint guns feature a barrel with a relatively slow twist rate because the bullets being used are very lightweight, and that twist rate adequately stabilizes them by spinning them faster.

Bullets intended for use on larger game for serious long-range accuracy are generally heavier and longer. The reason longer bullets are used for shooting at longer ranges is because they are sleeker and generally offer an improved ballistic coefficient — they are more aerodynamic and less prone to wind interference and atmospheric drag.

Of course, the use of these longer, heavier bullets requires a tighter, faster twist rate that can properly stabilize them in flight. Otherwise, you end up with a bullet that does not fly properly and which might be inaccurate or hit the target incorrectly (sideways, for example).

Check out the video above to get the straight scoop from Massaro. And be sure that you’re keeping twist rate in mind when selecting your rifle and bullet combination.

New Gun: Ruger AR-556 MPR (Multi-Purpose Rifle)

By
Elwood Shelton
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0

The AR-556 MPR (Multi-Purpose Rifle) is Ruger’s take on a custom build and provides the features of a quick-handling, smooth-shooting rifle.

  • The AR-556 MPR has a long gas system to reduce recoil.
  • The Ruger DI rifle boasts a slim and stiff handguard with M-LOK slots.
  • The rifle comes with Ruger’s enhanced fire-control system — the Elite 452 AR Trigger.
  • The AR-556 MPR is very affordable at $899 MSRP.

And now, another AR-15: The Ruger AR-556 MPR. 

But take it easy little shooter, there’s no need to wail and gnash teeth as Ruger widens the saturated market for America’s most popular rifle by one. Because, if anything, the New Hampshire gunmaker earns brownie points for trying something different with the AR-556 Multi-Purpose Rifle … and not breaking the bank along the way.

In particular, Ruger’s latest semi-automatic rifle has a gas system configuration that should raise eyebrows. While not without precedent, it’s rare to find a rifle-length gas system on an 18-inch barrel, which typically would boast a carbine- or mid-length configuration. But there’s method in Ruger’s madness, with the company shooting for improved handling (read: less recoil) by the unorthodox barrel-gas system match.

AR-556 MPR - 1

And there’s an added bonus to reducing the dwell time by lengthening the gas system — reduced wear. With a drop in pressure, the MPR shouldn’t batter its bolt carrier, thus it will last a few more miles.

The unique twist on a factory rifle isn’t a surprise on a firearm Ruger bills as its custom-build AR. The company has gone out of its way to really doll up the MPR with the functionality shooters generally have to provide themselves with aftermarket upgrades and accessories. And it looks to be a sensible addition to Ruger’s direct impingement line, the perfect foil to the very Mil-Spec and spartan flagship AR-556.

Like all custom builds, there’s a definite theme behind the AR-556 MPR. Ruger might say it’s the rifle that can do anything, but overall its configuration looks to facilitate fast target transitions and accuracy shot-to-shot when it’s away from the benchrest.

In addition to the gas system, Ruger has outfitted the AR-556 MPR with a light taper cold hammer-forged, chrome-moly steel barrel. This trims down the rifle’s overall weight to a very manageable 6.8 pounds while retaining mass where shooters want it — the muzzle. This should do quite a bit in making the MPR intuitive to move from target to target, and dampen the firearm’s muzzle flip. If it’s not, Ruger has added an insurance policy in the form of a radial port muzzle break, which should help in keeping it on target after each trigger pull.

AR-556 MPR - 2

The handguard should also do its part in making the AR-556 MPR a shooter. It’s free-floating and slim and stiff, adding to the rifle’s controllability and overall rigidity — nice attributes to have on an AR. But obviously, the M-LOK slots are the star of the show and offer plenty of real estate for lights, lasers and other goodies.

Not only does the handguard have slots at the usual 3-, 6-, and 9-o’clock positions down the entirety of the 15-inch length, but also on the angled surfaces near the muzzle. To top it all off, the handguard has a Picatinny rail that runs seamlessly into the receiver, permitting the easy addition of an optic.

As is becoming more common with new AR-15s, the MPR has 5R rifling — 1:8 twist — meant to enhance its accuracy potential. The improved configuration of the lands and their tapered design causes less bullet deformation, thus increasing a projectile’s ballistic potential. Additionally, the rifling is more resistant to fouling and easier to clean, allowing for a more reliable platform.

AR-556 MPR - 4

What should get shooters excited about the new rifle as well is Ruger veering away from a Mil-Spec trigger. Instead, the company has slapped in its Elite 452 AR Trigger, a two-stage model that has a crisp 4.5-pound break and minimal overtravel. Better than the usual gritty alternative. And finishing off the rifle is Magpul furniture — an MOE grip and MOE SL buttstock.

Given the bells and whistles Ruger has included on the rifle, it might be expected that the rifle would be well over the $1,000 mark. But the company appears to be offering a square deal on the AR-556 MPR with an MSRP of $899. Not bad, given rifles similarly configured vastly pass that price point.
Specifications:
Ruger AR-556 MPR
Stock: Black Synthetic, Collapsible
Front Sight: None
Rear Sight: None
Barrel: Length 18 in.
Thread Pattern: 1/2-28
Handguard: Free-Float M-LOK
Twist: 1:8 RH
Capacity: 30
Finish Type: III Hard CoatAnodized
Height: 8 in.
Weight: 6.8 lbs.
Overall Length: 35-38.25 in.
Length of Pull: 11.10-14.40 in.
Grooves: 5
Suggested Retail: $899

How To: The Effect Of Gravity On A Bullet’s Path

By
Ryan Cleckner
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0

Gravity has an inordinate effect on a bullet’s flight path. But because it’s consistent, gravity can be easily overcome to make an accurate shot.

  • The biggest accuracy variable to account for is gravity.
  • Gravity begins to pull the bullet down the moment it leaves the barrel.
  • Determine bullet drop at each distance to predict bullet travel (if speed stays constant).

Accurately hitting a target, especially at long range, requires the mastery of two skills: 

1) Determining the direction a bullet needs to be shot so that it hits the target
2) Shooting the bullet in the precise direction needed. It’s that simple.

The first skill involves knowing the path the bullet will take on its way to the target. This is mastered with knowledge, some math and correctly identifying certain variables like distance, wind and temperature — it’s all about the conditions/environment.

The second skill involves firing the rifle when it’s aimed exactly where it needs to be. This is mastered with lots of practice and proper employment of the fundamentals of shooting — it’s all about you.

Gravity is the No. 1 variable that must be accounted for in making an accurate shot.

Obviously, there are many variables and fundamentals to learn about and master. But we’ll start here.

A Bullet’s Path
Bullets don’t travel in a straight line to the target. If they did, then long-range shooting would be easy, and it wouldn’t even be a thing that people discussed, practiced or learned about — shooting at a target 1 yard away and 1,000 yards away would be exactly the same. On second thought, maybe it’s a good thing that bullets don’t travel in a straight line. After all, mastering long-range shooting is very rewarding.

When a bullet leaves a rifle, there are many variables that change its path. The biggest effect on a bullet’s path is also the easiest to account for: gravity.  

Gravity
The moment a bullet leaves the barrel, gravity starts to pull the bullet down off of its original path. Yes, you read that correctly. Bullets fall the moment they leave the barrel. If that seems odd to you, then you probably already know that the bullet travels in an arc on its way to the target. Wait a minute … how can the bullet fall immediately and also travel in an arc, which means it gets further from the ground at first before it falls back to the target? Simple — your barrel is angled upward even though your scope is looking straight at the target. Therefore, the original path of your bullet is a straight line at an upward angle.  

Gravity can be controlled for once number of factor are figured out.

The bullet, because of gravity, immediately starts to fall from its original path. Because objects fall faster the longer they fall (up to a certain point), the bullet falls faster and more off of its original path the longer it travels. This is what makes the arc path to the target — the bullet falling farther and faster off of its original path.

Can Your Bullet  “Out-Run” Gravity?
At 100 yards, gravity absolutely has an effect on the bullet. But, it doesn’t affect it much because most rifle bullets get to a 100-yard target very quickly, and therefore they don’t have much time to fall.  

The distance a bullet falls due to gravity is partly based on how fast the bullet is traveling — but not for the reason you might think. A fast-moving bullet does not somehow resist the effect of gravity because it has momentum as it flies forward. In fact, if you dropped a bullet from your hand from the same height and at the exact same time as you fired a bullet from a perfectly level rifle barrel, which bullet will hit the ground first? They will both hit the ground at the exact same time. The fact that one bullet was traveling horizontally at 3,000 fps has no effect on that bullet falling due to gravity.

The speed of the bullet, however, does have an effect on how much the bullet falls before it hits a certain target because of the time it takes to get to the target.  

Objects fall due to gravity at an acceleration rate of 9.8 m/s^2. This means that a bullet will be falling at a speed of 9.8 m/s at the end of its first second of falling. It will then increase its speed an additional 9.8 m/s for every additional second it falls. Therefore, a bullet not only falls farther the longer it travels to the target, it falls farther/faster each additional second!  

This means that a bullet that can get to a target in half the time will fall less than half the distance of a bullet that takes twice as long to get to a target. (Remember, it’ll fall more in the second half of its flight).

Biggest Effect
Gravity affects a bullet’s path more than any other variable (except for that tree branch that you didn’t see, of course). Every 100 yards the bullet travels, it falls more and more. This isn’t just because of the fact that the bullet is falling faster the longer it flies: it’s also because the bullet is slowing down due to air resistance (yes, these are related).

For example, the bullet travels from 100 yards to 200 yards much faster than it travels from 900 yards to 1,000 yards. Even if the bullet were still falling at the same speed between these two points (it’s not — it’s falling faster), then it would have more time to fall at the farther distances.

Once gravity is accounted for, other variables can the be controlled to make an accurate shot.

This is why my .308 Winchester bullet only falls 4 inches from 100 yards to 200 yards, and it falls a little over 100 inches from 900 yards to 1,000 yards. Trust me, except for hitting something in flight or shooting in a tornado, nothing else is going to move your bullet’s path over 100 inches within 100 yards of travel.

Easiest To Account For
I have some good news: Once you figure out how much your particular bullet will drop for each distance, you can record the information and use it again! Gravity will affect your bullet the same no matter where you are as long as your bullet is traveling at the same speed.

Editor’s Note: This article original appeared in the June 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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