7 Great Defensive Handguns For Women

September 6, 2017

The best handguns for women often land outside the pink-it and shrink-it category.

What are some great general handguns for women?

Smith & Wesson M&P45 Shield
Ruger SR1911
SIG Sauer P320
Remington RP9
Kimber Amethyst Ultra II
Glock 27
Republic Forge Defiant Lightweight

Confession: My name is Kat, and my hands aren’t small. My fingers are longer than those of many — most — men, in fact. My palms are too wide for women’s gloves. My hands engulf sub-compact guns but fit full-size double-stack 10mms. I am a woman who shoots, and my hands are neither small nor weak.

Men frequently ask me what handgun I recommend for the female in their lives. My standard response: Let them choose for themselves.

With that said, here’s a list of top handguns for women. And keep in mind: Many of the top choices don’t sport pink grips or purple slides.

Smith & Wesson M&P45 Shield
When Smith and Wesson launched the M&P45 Shield in 2016, I was immediately intrigued. The M&P Shield is a striker-fired model offered in multiple calibers — 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP — that’s earned a well-deserved place at the self-defense table. The .45 ACP chambering is interesting, partly due to the challenge of controlling its recoil in a compact model.

The 45 Shield was designed with an aggressively textured grip to combat slipping; even pouring water over the gun didn’t lessen its effectiveness. It has an overall length of 6.5 inches — 0.4 inch longer than the smaller caliber models — and weighs 20.5 ounces empty. As a single-stack, it’s easier to conceal and simpler to grip with smaller hands while remaining comfortable for larger hands. On the range, its design proved solid by recoiling rearward with minimal muzzle rise. My average five-shot groups at 10 yards hovered at 1.5 inches and expanded to 2 inches at 25 yards.

Why conceal carry (CC) a .45 ACP? Because its bullet diameter is .451 inch prior to expansion, after which it’s even larger, and sometimes those extra two millimeters are the difference between hitting and missing vital organs or arteries. Many carry advocates shy away from recommending .45 ACP handguns for women because they believe they recoil enormously, which isn’t true: The .45 ACP recoils more than some, but it’s far less than most people expect. It’s easily mastered, and when you do, you might find yourself not only carrying the 45 Shield, but also loving it like Gollum loved the One Ring.

Specifications:

Smith & Wesson M&P45 Shield
Frame Size: Compact slim
Caliber: .45 Auto
Action: Striker-fired, semi-auto
Capacity: 7+1 and 6+1
Barrel Length: 3.3 in.
Front Sight: Steel, white dot
Rear Sight: Steel, white two-dot
Overall Length: 6.5 in.
Frame Width: .99 in.
Frame with Slide Stop: 1.05 in.
Height: 4.88 in. with flush magazine
Grip: Polymer
Weight: 20.5 oz. (empty)
Barrel Material: Stainless-steel,  Armornite finish
Slide Material: Stainless-steel,  Armornite finish
Frame Material: Polymer
Finish: Black
MSRP: $479

Ruger SR1911
The Ruger SR1911 in 9mm is a Series 70 Lightweight Commander-style 1911; this variant has an aluminum frame and 4.25-inch barrel. At 29.3 ounces, it’s somewhat heavier than the original Colt Commander of 1949 and longer, too; its overall length is 7.75 inches. Even so, it can be concealed — yes you can conceal a full-size pistol — even as a smaller-framed woman.

Slinging lead, the SR1911 excels. It ships with Novak Low-Mount three-dot sights; sights are drift adjustable and provide a clear sight picture. But its true test wasn’t at my hands but those of my then-13-year-old daughter, Grace. She was a 1911 newbie, and her first five-shot group at 10 yards neatly obliterated the 1-inch bull’s eye on the Shoot-N-C target.

Grace’s hands are much smaller than mine; her fingers are 1.75 inches shorter and narrower, too. Despite that, we both found the Ruger SR1911 offered a positive grip, natural trigger reach and fantastic accuracy. At 25 yards using Hornady American Gunner XTP 115-grain ammunition, the gun nailed a best five-shot group of 1.41 inches. It’s a dependable, accurate gun, and Grace claimed it as hers.

Oh, the SR1911 is also available in 10mm. The 10mm model has a longer barrel and is difficult to conceal, but it’s a superb choice for open carry or handgun hunting. It’s awesomely precise — my first five rounds of Polycase yielded a one-hole .538-inch group — and it feels natural. Also, its greater recoil is blunted by its design. My first range session with it involved 100 rounds of Hornady and 200 rounds of Polycase. There were no failures, just pure precision and bliss.

If you’re interested in the SR1911, be aware that it comes chambered in 9mm, .45 ACP and 10mm.

Specifications:

Ruger SR1911
Model Type: Lightweight  Commander-style 1911
Caliber: 9mm
Action: Recoil-operated,  hammer-fired, semi-auto
Barrel: 4.25 in.
Twist: 1:10 in. RH
Width: 1.34 in.
Overall Length: 7.75 in.
Height: 5.45 in.
Weight: 29.3 oz.
Capacity: 9+1
Trigger: Aluminum, skeletonized,  with adjustable over-travel stop
Trigger Pull:  4 lbs., 5 oz.
Slide: Stainless-steel
Slide Finish: Low-glare  stainless-steel
Grip Frame:  Gray anodized aluminum
Grip Panels: Black rubberized
Sights: Drift adjustable Novak  LoMount 3-Dot
Safeties: Ambidextrous extended  beavertail grip safety
MSRP: $979

SIG Sauer P320
The SIG P320 received attention after being selected as the winner of the Army’s XM17 Modular Handgun System (MHS) competition. It then failed a drop test done outside U.S. testing parameters; basically, it might fire if the trigger has a heavier pull and it’s dropped in a specific way. SIG announced it will offer upgrades, but here’s the bottom line: The P320 has been reliable not only for myself but other long-time gun owners, meaning it’s highly recommended.

There are multiple P320 variations, one of which is the P320 Compact. This is the gun carried concealed by competitive shooter Annette Evans. Evans carries the compact model partly due to familiarity: “It’s the baby version of my match gun, meaning it’s nearly identical to the gun I’ve shot tens of thousands of rounds through.”

She went on to attest to the gun’s performance: “I’m completely confident in the gun’s reliability, in how well I can run the gun, and in how effectively I shoot the gun — qualities I demand of my carry gun.”

During trigger time, the striker-fired P320 shines. It has a wider double-stack grip that fits both large and smaller hands — mine larger and Evans’ smaller — and texturing assists a firm grip, making it one of the best handguns for women available, or anyone for that matter. There’s some take-up ahead of the break; the trigger breaks at a measured 6 pounds, 3 ounces. At 25 yards, the best group was with DRT 9mm 85-grain Terminal Shock, a five-shot 1.11-inch group.

The P320’s modularity is one of its greatest features: Grip modules come in small, medium and large; it has an interchangeable trigger group; and calibers include 9mm, .357 SIG, .40 S&W and .45 ACP. The full-size P320 has an overall length of 8 inches and an empty weight of 29.5 ounces; the Compact model has an overall length of 7.2 inches and an empty weight of 25.8 ounces. Whether for open carry, concealed carry or range time, SIG has you covered here as a woman who shoots.

Specifications:

SIG Sauer P320
Caliber: 9mm/.357 SIG/.40 S&W/.45 ACP
Action: Semi-auto
Frame: Full-size (or compact)
Finish Material: Stainless-steel  (stainless-steel)
Slide Material: Stainless-steel  (stainless-steel)
Accessory Rail: M1913 (M1913)
Trigger: Striker (striker)
Trigger Pull: 6 lbs., 3 oz.  (6 lbs., 4 oz.)
Barrel: 4.7 in. (3.9 in.)
Overall Length: 8.0 in. (7.2 in.)
Height: 5.5 in. (5.3 in.)
Weight: 29.5 oz. empty  (25.8 oz., empty)
MSRP: Starts at $679

Remington RP9
Big Green recently celebrated its 200th anniversary, and with it came the RP9. There might appear to be similarities to the aforementioned P320, but there are reasons to mention it. In just a few short years, Remington jumped in the deep end of the handgun pool, launching the R51 — twice — the RM380 and the RP9. Of this trifecta, all of which I’ve fired at length, the RP9 stands out as the model of choice when it comes to handguns for women.

It takes more than going “boom” for a gun to win me over. So, although its aesthetics are noteworthy — it looks cool — it’s the trigger that makes this gun. The RP9 has a safety blade trigger with a steady, smooth pull and clean break. The reset is short, simplifying follow-up shots and increasing accuracy. My Lyman Trigger Gauge measured its pull weight at 5 pounds, 10 ounces, and though I do enjoy lightweight triggers, the RP9’s does nicely. Five rounds of Polycase Inceptor 9mm 65-grain ARX pierced a target at 25 yards with a best group of 1.67 inches.

Specifications:

Remington RP9
Caliber: 9mm
Action: Semi-auto, striker-fired
Capacity: 18+1
Barrel: 4.5 in.
Trigger Pull Weight: 5 lbs., 10 oz.
Sights: Drift-adjustable, three-dot white sights
Frame: Polymer
Slide: Stainless-steel
Finish: Matte black
Overall Length: 7.92 in.
Width: 1.3 in.
Height: 5.5 in.
Weight: 26.4 oz. (empty)
MSRP: $489

Kimber Amethyst Ultra II
Its bold purple slide grabs your attention, but the accuracy of the Kimber Amethyst Ultra II keeps it. The Amethyst is a compact 1911, and if you doubt the platform’s efficacy, consider that a 1918 Colt M1911 was self-defense expert Massad Ayoob’s 12th birthday present. If a 1911 can win the attention of 12-year-old Mas, it can have yours, too.

The Amethyst comes in 9mm and .45 ACP, so I, of course, chose .45 ACP. I ran 10 different brands of ammo through the pistol at various distances and experienced no failures of any kind.

It’s a single stack, so it’s slim for small hands, but the G10 grip panels broaden the gun for a concrete grip. Even better, it’s tall enough to prohibit dangling pinkies; it has an overall height of 4.75 inches and a 3-inch barrel, but it manages to retain enough bulk for comfortable and decisive shooting.

The solid aluminum trigger has an extremely abbreviated measured pull weight of 4 pounds, 10 ounces, and a glass-sharp break. At 10 yards with Snake River Shooting Products Team Never Quit 155-grain HP Frangible rounds, my best five-shot group — offhand — was 0.58 inch. At 15 yards, I had no problem drilling the bull’s eye consistently with a single-handed grip.

The Amethyst is a reasonably light 25 ounces, empty, and it’s highly concealable. My one issue was the beavertail grip safety, which began pinching the pesky skin between my thumb and pointer finger during extensive shooting. Otherwise, it’s a well-made, high-quality pistol.

At the range, several men referred to it as “cute,” which they quickly swapped with “amazing” and “I want one” after I let them try it. There’s nothing cute about a precise compact 1911; it might be purple, but it’s a stellar self-defense weapon. Kimber also offers it as the bright-blue Sapphire.

Specifications:

Kimber Amethyst Ultra II
Type: Compact 1911
Caliber: .45 ACP (tested), 9mm
Capacity: 7+1
Barrel: 3 in., stainless-steel
Overall Length: 6.8 in.
Overall Width: 1.15 in.
Overall Height: 4.75 in.
Weight: 25 oz. empty
Construction: Aluminum frame, stainless-steel slide
Grips: Purple and black G10
Sights: Tactical wedge three-dot tritium night sights, fixed
Safeties: Ambidextrous thumb, grip and hammer safety notch
Trigger: 4 lbs. 10 oz.
MSRP: $1,652

Glock 27
What’s a gun list without Glock? Sadly lacking, in my opinion. Eleven years ago, when my daughter was three years old, my concealed Glock 27 saved both our lives. I still own that gun, a little pistol that’s proven its reliability through thousands of rounds and concealment in a long list of states throughout the country. It cycles in sub-zero weather, rips out the bull’s eye whether I’m 15 yards away shooting one-handed or firing prone — and feels good in my hands.

There are several versions of the sub-compact, or baby, Glock. The more popular models are the 9mm 26, .40 S&W 27, 10mm 29, and .45 ACP 30S. The .40 S&W is losing popularity partly because ballistics has improved the 9mm’s capabilities but also due to a lack of knowledge. No matter how you slice it, the .40 S&W has an edge in velocity, energy and, subsequently, a bigger wound cavity over 9mm. As mentioned earlier, one millimeter could be the hair’s breadth to drop your attacker. I would be remiss not to address this cartridge.

Glocks are striker-fired polymer pistols, and the majority are double-stacks. The 27’s overall height of 4.17 inches leaves my pinkie hanging; Pearce Grip Extensions on magazines solve the issue without interfering with concealment. Hornady Critical Defense 165-grain FTX fired offhand at 10 yards produced a best five-shot group of .49 inch with the 27, and I shot a .53-inch group with the 26. The sub-compact 27 recoils more than full-size pistols, but it’s still negligible, and muzzle rise is easily managed. The stock safety-blade trigger has some take-up and a clean, firm break. It has a tactile reset; if you pay attention, follow-up shots are fast, without take-up.

There’s no arguing the reliability of Glocks, and if there’s one thing required of a self-defense gun, it’s that. There are numerous options for caliber and size. If you prefer single stacks, there’s the .380 ACP 42 and the 9mm 43. There are sub-compacts, compacts and full-size models; Gen 4 Glocks ship with interchangeable backstraps. Glocks might be plastic, but they’re plastic I trust with not only my life, but also my daughter’s.

Specifications:

Glock 27
Caliber: .40 S&W
Action: Semi-auto, striker-fired
Frame: Polymer
Capacity: 9+1 (13/15/22 optional)
Barrel: 3.42 in.
Overall Length: 6.49 in.
Height: 4.17 in.
Width: 1.18 in.
Weight: 21.89 oz. empty
Trigger pull: 5 lbs., 2 oz.
Trigger travel: .49 in.
Barrel rifling: Right-hand, hexagonal
Length of twist: 9.84 in.
MSRP: $549

Republic Forge Defiant Lightweight
If the name doesn’t get you, this custom 1911’s performance will. Republic Forge is known for its high-end 1911s, which are handmade one at a time. I’ve had the pleasure of using various models for hunting and self-defense, and I consider the Defiant a must-mention. Yes, it’s an expensive pistol, but it’s also an impressive weapon.

The .45 ACP Defiant is a Commander-style 1911 designed to become the classic in your gun family. Don’t misunderstand; this is no safe queen. With a barrel length of 3.6 inches and an overall height of 5.25 inches, it can and should be your EDC. Its skeletonized trigger has a measured pull weight of 3 pounds, 1 ounce and offers a consistent pull and crisp break. Muzzle rise is minimal, and it provides a positive grip; all controls are within reach for shooters with smaller hands, and the grip safety functions well. It ate everything I fed it from hollow points to frangible ammo, and it produced a best five-shot group of 1.22 inches at 25 yards with Polycase Inceptor 118-grain ARX.

If you want a custom-made 1911, Republic Forge gets it done with Made-in-America style. The Defiant is one of many outstanding options.

Specifications:

Republic Forge Defiant Lightweight
Caliber: .45 ACP
Action: Single, semi-automatic
Weight: 30 oz. empty
Frame: Full-sized commander
Frame Material: 7075 T-6 aluminum
Slide: 4340 carbon steel, heat-treated
to 38-41 Rockwell
Barrel: 416 stainless-steel
Barrel: 3.6 in.
Trigger: Skeletonized
Trigger Pull: 3 lbs., 1 oz.
Sights: Republic Forge Night Sights with
straight-eight Tritium configuration
MSRP: $2,995

The .380 ACP For Women
You probably noticed these guns are all 9mm and larger. Despite advances in ballistics, tests — including my own — show .380 ACP doesn’t meet FBI standards for penetration. This doesn’t mean it should be discounted, but that it’s best as a BUG (backup gun). In fact, the Ruger LCP II is one of the more impressive pocket pistols of recent history with its vastly improved trigger and surprising accuracy. It’s a great boot gun and executes tight groups at close range. The .380 ACP is a snappy little cartridge meant for close-range use; the belief that .380 ACP, .38 Special and other small calibers produce less felt recoil is patently untrue.

The Handgun Bottom Line
There’s a gun for everyone regardless of hand size, stature … or gender. Try different models before choosing one — let the lady of your life try them for herself — and don’t restrict her to smaller calibers. Handguns for women do not automatically translate to micro-sized .380s. Buy the gun she’s comfortable shooting and willing to carry, then get proper training.

As the late Col. Jeff Cooper said, “The first rule of a gunfight is having a gun.”

Get a gun.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the September 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Gun Review: Savage Model 10 GRS Rifle

L.P. Brezny

September 6, 2017

The new Savage Model 10 GRS features a high-tech adjustable stock and is capable of serious long-range performance.

What makes the Savage Model 10 GRS a contender in the long-range game?

This new Model 10 utilizes a fully adjustable and highly ergonomic Berserk stock from GRS Riflestocks of Norway.
The rifle combines Savage's time-proven and accurate Model 10 action with a button-rifled and fluted, medium-heavy barrel and the manufacturer's crisp AccuTrigger.
The new Model 10 GRS is available in excellent long-range calibers such as .308 Winchester, 6.5 Creedmoor and 6mm Creedmoor.
The author was able to achieve sub-half-MOA groups with the rifle in calm wind conditions.

Built on the back of the standard police sniper rifle, the Savage Model 10, the new Savage Model 10 GRS is a major advancement when it comes to personalizing a rifle for field, long-range or competitive target applications. With the addition of the new GRS Berserk adjustable stock, this rifle has taken a step up when it comes to a solid bolt-action rifle that can — with the simple push of a button on the rifle’s stock — adjust the system to fit anyone. This rifle stock is straight from Norway and carries a right-hand depressed palm design exactly like that of the German Anschutz competition target rifle. This rifle retains a stock that is so unique to the Savage Model 10 that it warrants a story unto itself. While half the gun industry dances around with look-alike rail guns (chassis designs) and modified conventional rifle stocks, Savage hit the deck running with a real innovation in this rifle by offering European stock engineering in an American rifle.

Two buttons control the length of trigger pull and comb height in relation to the riflescope. The system is flawless and quite simple to use. It doesn’t have any ratchets, knobs or keyhole locks to turn. The forend of the stock retains a beavertail flat base, but it’s a bit modified from a full target rifle’s design. The left side of the stock features quick-release, button-style sling swivels, whereas the underside toward the muzzle retains a single stud for mounting a Harris-type bipod. Along the sides and grip of the rifle’s stock there is a special surface that is soft to the touch. This grip surface aids in maintaining a solid grip for offhand or benchrest shooting. The rifle stock is constructed of a fiberglass, Durethan-reinforced material, and the rifle is glass bedded. I had cut my left-hand index finger while butchering meat sometime before I began to evaluate this rifle, and during testing, the texture of the forend brushing against it was bad enough I was not sure I could continue with my live fire review.

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However, because of the very user-friendly design of this rifle, I was still able to stay in the game. In effect, I basically eliminated the need for my support hand altogether, instead shooting groups with my right arm only on sand bags. That special offset target pistol grip/palm rest gave me some additional and much-needed control. So far, every shooter I have shown this rifle to has commented on the very well designed stock. Even the buttstock’s Limb Saver system needs to be addressed. When shooting at 1,000 yards, I was able to basically free-float the rifle in the sand bags, as felt recoil was about the same as a .30-30 Winchester.

Model 10 Barreled Action
Say what you want about a Savage action in terms of its lacking any special good looks, but as far as I’m concerned, it is what happens when the bullet meets the target that counts, and how easy it is for the shooter to use the equipment at hand to get the job done. The Savage Model 10 is offered in both .308 Winchester and the newer 6.5 Creedmoor (Editor's Note: The Savage Model 10 GRS is also now offered in 6mm Creedmoor as well). The Creedmoor-chambered model retains a longer 24-inch barrel versus the .308’s 20-inch length. Save for that difference, both rifles are exactly the same minus the chambering.

The rifle accepts variants of the AICS magazine and ships from the factory with a single box magazine. The receiver of the Model 10 is exactly that — the time-tested Savage turn bolt line — and is the solid, accuracy-delivering guts the manufacturer has become respected for producing. Tack on the button-rifled and fluted, medium-heavy barrel to Savage’s barreled action pairing, and you have a solid, tack-driving rifle as your end product. Finish off the rifle with the Savage AccuTrigger and a threaded muzzle that accepts suppressors, and you’re ready to install your choice of glass and take on targets well downrange.

Accuracy and Function
With a somewhat tight timeline for testing and the absence of the scope I originally intended to use, which was still hung up on some freight truck, I elected to go with a model I had on hand, at least for starters. Bolting down a Nikon 4.5-18x magnification Prostaff 5, I set the second focal plane power to a locked 10x and proceeded to shoot a zero and then groups with no less than five different loads offered up by Federal, as well as a handload of my design using Sierra bullets. The following are the results of those 100-yard three-shot groups.

Load	Group 100 Yards
Federal American Eagle 140-grain OTM 6.5 Creedmoor	1.420 inches
Federal Premium Big Game 120-grain trophy Copper	1.350 inches
Federal Gold Medal Berger 130-grain Hybrid OTM Match	1.0 inches
Federal Fusion 140-grain SN	1.150 inches
BR&D, Hornady Brass, Federal Primer LR, 38.2 GR Varget, and Sierra 130-grain MKT	1.033 inches

Now, before you go off half-cocked and say those are the worst groups in history for a precision-type rifle, please be advised that the weather was dreadful. I had a full-value right-to-left northwest wind that was gusting 10 to 20 mph, and I was trying to send bullets between gusts with darn little success. However, even with those issues, I could see through the distressed bullet flight that there was a consistent pattern emerging with the test loads’ performance, and, given some better conditions, I felt sure accuracy would improve. I had shot a dead center 50-yard group with the Federal Berger 130-grain Hybrid on my short shotgun range at home that had measured only 0.335 inch. The rifle can shoot, and by the next day, with the arrival of the proper Bushnell Elite Tactical DMR 3.5-31×50, I became more than a bit hopeful.

On the second day of shooting, the weather had settled down, and I was greeted with dead-still air. Shooting conditions could not have been any better as I set the Savage Model 10 GRS into some heavy sand bags. I established a zero using a ¼-inch diamond dot paster placed squarely in the middle of an 18×18-inch Birchwood Casey black carbon Shoot-N-See target, and the first round put a hole straight through the marker. That was a first ever for me, seeing as I had not touched the scope in any way beforehand. If you’re a bit superstitious, you might even say it was an omen of sorts, and the next series of 100-yard targets proved that to be possibly a fact. The group list included here is an example of shooting in calm conditions with a Mack Brothers suppresser attached and the Mil-Spec Bushnell Elite Tactical DMR ultra-long-range first focal plane milrad scope taking charge of the task at hand.

Load	Group 100 Yards
Federal Gold Medal Berger 130-grain Hybrid Open Tip Match	0.410 inch
Federal American Eagle 140-grain OTM	0.485 inch
Federal Premium Big Game 120-grain Trophy Copper	0.375 inch

With the total weight of the rifle package at 13 pounds, the Bushnell reticle stood dead still in testing. I was sure that, with these groups, when I moved to long range, I would be in the zone and able to spot bullet splashes easily. Without adjusting the bench, I turned to the 600-yard marker, an E-50 Action Target armor plate steel torso. After clicking up 3.5 Mils, I set the crosshairs dead center on the plate. The rifle gave off a hollow thud with the suppressor and a second or so later, steel rang out. I had again selected the Berger Match ammo here because it carried a G-1 BC of 0.560, and it was producing excellent results.

The Final Stretch
Luckily, my weather pattern was holding. On day three — the final run with the new Savage Model 10 GRS — I repainted my E-50 target, and then I moved up to Dead Horse Ridge, which was 1,000 yards out, and 100 feet above the valley floor from where the target was placed. This would be the final push in terms of testing the rifle’s performance, and again, I would stay with the Federal Gold Medal 130-grain Berger bullet loads, as they had been nothing but outstanding. Measurements on the 600-yard steel in the previous three-shot groups measured from 4 to 5 inches in a triangle shape, and in the three sets of groups shot, everything fired had met steel head on. With sub-MOA performance now to 600 yards, in my mind the Savage Model 10 GRS was red hot.

Dead Horse Ridge looms above the valley, allowing a rifleman to easily shoot from 500 yards to over one mile. The air temperature was already building, which told me to cut a few tenths of a mil back in terms of bullet drop. I checked my D.O.P.E (Data On Previous Engagement) once more, then sent round one downrange. I hadn’t allowed enough reduction in elevation as the bullet skipped just over the steel plate and sent dust bellowing up dead center but above the target. Turning my turret two 1/10 clicks and taking a slightly lower hold, round two sent dust and dirt flying all across the ground in front of the hardened steel plate. Hit! I muttered to myself, and it was now game on.

While I won’t quite say shooting 1,000 yards with this scope and rifle was almost easy, I must admit that Savage and Bushnell have hit on a winner with this long-range combination. When I concluded my string of shots, I had sent 10 rounds toward steel and missed that first round over, and the second shot very slightly to the right. When I checked the target up close, I then spotted that the missed round on the right side had actually just caught the very edge of the steel plate. This, in long-range shooting terms, was scored as a hit, but I believe that would be splitting hairs in this case, and I was still very pleased with the performance of this long-range 6.5 Creedmoor rifle.

Also of note, when I had concluded the 10-round string against steel, I observed the remains of a coyote out at the 1,130-yard mark. Using the highly scientific WAG (wild-ass guess) ranging system and turret adjustment, I set my crosshairs directly on the drying bag of bones and hide. At the shot, the hair flew and bones spread out. I had made a dead center hit with one shot, which gives some indication of this rifle’s ability at long range. To be sure, the Savage Model 10 GRS will be responsible for some long-range “punch outs” in the months to come.

My conclusions here are quite simple: I believe that rifles like this Savage Model 10 give the long-range shooter or hunter an accurate system at a very fair price. As for the Bushnell optic I used? Be advised, my friends, you have not seen the last of that class of high-end long-range glass. That scope was totally outstanding in every respect, and it was military to the core.

Currently, Savage holds the record regarding the number and types of long-range rifles in current production. You could say the company has taken long range into its mainstream production without limits. The new Savage Model 10 GRS has innovations that I have not seen in an American rifle to date.

Specifications:

Savage Model 10 GRS
Caliber: .308 Winchester, 6.5 Creedmoor (as tested), 6mm Creedmoor
Type: Bolt-action rifle
Barrel: 20 in. (.308 Win.), 24 in. (6.5 Creedmoor), 26 in. (6mm Creedmoor)
Barrel Material: Carbon steel, matte finish
Overall Length: 40 in. (.308 Win.), 44 in. (6.5 Creedmoor), 46 in. (6mm Creedmoor)
Weight: 8.9 lbs. (.308 Win.), 9.2 lbs. (6.5 Creedmoor), n/a (6mm Creedmoor)
Trigger: AccuTrigger
Stock: GRS Berserk synthetic, adjustable
Capacity: 10 rounds
MSRP: $1,449

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the June 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

7 Classic Revolvers You’ve Got To Have

Elwood Shelton

September 5, 2017

There's no denying that semi-automatics pistols rule the roost nowadays. But this hasn’t always been the case. For nearly two centuries, the sidearm of choice has been the revolver, and for good reason. Boasting one of the most reliable designs, capable of shooting some of the most powerful handgun cartridges, and deadly accurate, the style of firearm just plain delivers. And there have been some downright incredible examples of these rock-solid handguns to roll down the pike over the years. With this in mind, here are 7 classic revolvers you’ve got to have, or your gun safe just won’t be complete.

What are some of the most classic revolvers:

Colt Single Action Army
Colt Detective Special
Smith & Wesson Model 19
Ruger Blackhawk
Colt Python
Smith & Wesson Model 29
Freedom Arms Model 83

Colt Single Action Army

Arguably the king of all handguns, this prince of the prairie helped tame the American West and is still lionized by shooters today. The legendary gun was among the first commercially successful revolvers to utilize metallic cartridges. And when married with the potent .45 Colt, it provided soldiers, lawmen and outlaws enough firepower to get their jobs done.

Today, the SAA lives on as a movie icon, with the likes of John Wayne, Clint Eastwood and Val Klimer all dropping the hammer on the six-shooter. The original historic revolvers, especially those with any providence, can border on the insane when it comes to price. Luckily, Colt still has the Single Action Army running off its assembly line, as does Uberti — true to form and ornery as ever.

Colt Detective Special

Like any tough-as-leather gumshoe will tell you, a solid snubnosed revolver can allot a great deal of peace of mind. And snubbies‘ enduring popularity is due, in part, to this slick little pocket pistol.

The Detective Special made its appearance in the Roaring ‘20s, and like its name suggests, the revolver was intended for carry by plain-clothes officers. But G-Men weren't the only ones to recognize the advantage of the clandestine .38 Special, with more than one of these Colts making it into the hands of mobsters and bootleggers over the years.

In addition to its petite size, the Detective Special embraces a design point new to revolvers of the time. It was among the first double actions to utilize a swing-out cylinder. As revolver fans know, this tweak made wheelguns that much faster on the reload, a particularly important feature for a defensive arm.

The Detective Special is still popular today, a keen addition to any gun collection. And in a pinch, ready to roar into action.

Smith & Wesson Model 19

Coming up with a classic doesn’t necessarily mean reinventing the wheel. The Model 19 is a case in point.

In collaboration with a lawman and one of the best marksmen of his day, Bill Jordan, Smith & Wesson married the powerful .357 Magnum cartridge with its trim medium-sized K-Frame. While it required some mechanical and metallurgical tinkering to get right, what resulted was magic

The Model 19 boasted supreme stopping power, yet came in a manageable package. It's latter point was one of its greatest assets; it could be worn all day without becoming burdensome. No understatement, it became the finest duty revolver of the 20th Century, and an absolute treasure to revolver fans.

Ruger Blackhawk

It’s hard to think how the Single Action Army could be improved, but Ruger found a way to do it. Shooters, in turn, more than responded.

The Blackhawk was and is one of the all-time most popular guns to roll off the company’s assembly line. What made it such a hit, aside from the Western movies of the day, was the single action’s ability to digest magnum rounds. Given America's love affair with the .357 Magnum in the early 1950s, it made sense the Blackhawk was originally chambered for the round, then soon after the .44 Magnum.

The new models, and there are many of them, are just as fun and rock solid as the Blackhawks that rolled off the line nearly more than 60 years ago. But it's difficult to argue that there is just something to the old, original “Flattop” models that are the apples of collectors’ eyes.

Colt Python

Along with hand-rolled cigars and small-batch whiskey, this revolver is truly one of the finer things in life. The hand fitted and hand polished Python offered shooters an unparalleled experience behind the trigger, and head-turning looks that seldom come down the pike.

To the latter point, the .357 Magnum is unmistakable in silhouette, boasting a vented rib and a full-length underlug running on a bull. But the Python offered more than serpentine good-looks; it also performed. The revolver could beat the snot out of the bullseye, aided by superior hand fit, a trigger pull as smooth a glass and a cylinder locking mechanism that milked every bit of accuracy out of each cartridge. It is no wonder gun writers and handgun enthusiasts in general consider the Python among the best mass-produced revolvers of all time.

Smith & Wesson Model 29

The revolver that makes anyone’s day, shooters have had an up-and-down relationship with the .44 Magnum. Popularized by Clint Eastwood’s use of it in the “Dirty Harry” movies, the Model 29 was for a time the must-have revolver.

But similar to when it was originally introduced in the 1950s, there were plenty of barely-shot 29s returned to gun stores around the country. While shootable for caliber, the Smith & Wesson N-frame still packed more punch than the general shooting public was willing to endure.

The emerging niche of handgun hunting in the 1970s kept the large-bore revolver relevant, given, short of a blue whale, it could perforate and permanently put down nearly any beasty on God’s green earth. And it is still among the top choices of handgun hunters today, especially those with a yen for the classics.

Freedom Arms Model 83

Finely built, with power to spare, this single-action monster is just the ticket for tackling any game North America can throw at you.

The first commercially revolver offered in .454 Casull, the Model 83 gained notoriety for more than its ability to pitch one of the most potent rounds on the planet. The wheelgun was also one of the most meticulously engineered firearms to hit the market, despite its old-timey look. One such example is Freedom Arms line boring the cylinder, a process rarely seen outside custom shops and which ensures absolutely dead-on bore-to-chamber alignment.

Despite its premium price, the Model 83 has grown in popularity with the upsurge of handgun hunting, and it is now available in a slew of game-stopping calibers from .357 Magnum to .500 Wyoming Express. Freedom Arms has even kept the recoil-sensitive, yet performance-driven shooters in mind, offering the legendary Model 83 in .22 LR.

Classic Pistol: Heckler & Koch P7 Series

Robert Sadowski

September 5, 2017

Heckler & Koch's P7 series of pistols are truly unique, not only due to their delayed-blowback system, but also due to their peculiar squeeze-grip cocking mechanism.

The Heckler & Koch P7 series was touted as the company's finest, most reliable and most expensive pistol line in its run from 1979 to 2008.
What set the P7s apart from contemporaries of the time and today is their unique squeeze-cocker grip, which were the pistols' only safety.
The P7 design is also intriguing due to its lack of slide rails; the slide stays in place through the barrel, which makes it truly easy to manipulate.
The P7 is a hefty pistol, given its metal frame; this extra weight pays off in the accuracy department, helping it keep on target.

The Heckler & Koch P7 is iconic not just because it employs a gas delayed-blowback system but for other features designed into the gun. From 1979 thru 2008, the P7 series was positioned by H&K as the finest, most reliable and most expensive — yes they actually used that tag line in advertisements — pistol available. There was nothing like it on the market. At the time, the P7 was probably the most expensive pistol on the market. Other features in the pistol actually over shadowed the gas delayed-blowback system like the squeeze-cocking grip, striker-fire single-action trigger, and a number of other features that made the P7 stand out from the other 9mm pistols of that time.

The P7 was designed by H&K to replace the 7.65mm caliber pistols used by West German police in the early 1970s. Part of the criteria for the new pistol required that it be chambered in 9mm, weight was not to exceed 35 ounces, and the pistol’s size could not be more than 180mm × 130mm × 34 mm — that’s 7.08 in. x 5.11 in. x 1.33 in. for the metric challenged. The pistol also needed to be fully ambidextrous, safe to carry with a loaded chamber, have the ability to be quickly drawn and fired instantly, and have a service life of at least 10,000 rounds.

The H&K P7, along with submissions from SIG and Walther, won contracts. The P7 was officially adopted as the PSP, and it wasn’t long before other law enforcement agencies in Germany embraced the pistol as well as special forces in the German military. Greece and Mexico produced licensed variants of the pistol while other countries around the globe adopted the P7. Stateside, the P7 was adopted by the New Jersey State Police in 1981. The U.S. Park Police as a well as a few other LE agencies adopted the pistol. Back in the 1980s, the H&K P7 was a high-tech, cutting-edge pistol design.

What really sets the P7 series apart from contemporaries of the time and today is the squeeze-cocker grip. The front grip strap is actually a cocking lever. Grip the pistol and squeeze like you would normally grip a pistol. It takes about 13 to 15 pounds to squeeze the cocking lever and about one pound to hold it. Think of it like a compound bow; initially, it takes more effort, then less to hold it. Once cocked, a pin protrudes from the rear of the slide indicating to the user the pistol is cocked and ready to be fired. The cocking lever actually moves the striker into battery so the pistol will fire when the trigger is pressed. A relatively crisp single-action trigger press of about five pounds fires the pistol.

This squeeze-cocker feature allows the pistol to be safely carried with a round in the chamber, and it is the only safety device on the pistol. In the event the firing pin fails to dent the primer of the cartridge and the round does not go off, the cocking lever can be released and squeezed again to fire the pistol. The cocking lever also makes the pistol harder for those with weak hand muscles, like children, to fire the pistol.

The squeeze-cocking lever is a bit odd for an experienced pistol shooter, but I found my ramp up time was quick. The P7 has natural pointing ability and excellent balance. Most of the weight is in the butt, and the bore axis is low. The pistol is also small. There is not a lot of pistol forward of the trigger guard. The P7 and the Walther CCP have the barrel fixed to the receiver so the barrel does not move during firing. This design trait makes the pistol inherently more accurate than a locked breech and tilting barrel mechanism. Not that the P7 or the CCP are target pistols by any means.

Missing in these designs are slide rails. The slide stays on the receiver because of the barrel. The slide is easy to manipulate. Using the pinch-and-pull method or hand-over-the-slide method, the slide is effortless to rack, unlike some compact locked breech designs that require strength to manipulate the slide. Other design features of the P7 include a fluted chamber similar to an H&K G3 or PTR 91 rifle. The flutes in the chamber allow the pressure from a fired round to eject the empty brass cartridge. The P7 does have an extractor, which helps makes the ejection run more smoothly, but in the case that the extractor breaks, you are not out of the gunfight. The P7 will still run. Empties will still eject. What was also new at the time and relatively common today is the P7’s polygonal-rifled barrel.

The P7M8 I used for testing had a European-style magazine release in the butt. Later variants of the P7 used a thumb magazine release. The sights are large and easy to align.

Compared to other compact locked breech pistols, there was a difference in the cycling. I ran the P7 with three different bullet weights and different bullet types: Hornady American Gunner with 115-grain XP jacketed hollow point bullets, Aguila 124-grain FMJs and Liberty Ammunition Civil Defense 50-grain hollow point bullets. Muzzle velocities varied among the cartridges, with the Liberty Ammunition screaming out the barrel at 1,943 fps. The Hornady and Aguila were what you would expect, about 1,080 and 1,010 fps, respectively. I had a compact locked breech pistol along firing the same ammunition, and there was a difference in felt recoil. The P7 was softer. There were no issues with any of the ammo, and the P7 had a preference for the hot 50-grain Liberty ammo. My best five-shot group at 25 yards was 1.08 inches.

The P7 is not the lightest of compact pistols since it uses a metal frame, but that extra weight made the P7 a sweet-shooting pistol. On average, five-shot groups ranged from 1.5 to 1.7 inches at 25 yards. This old school pistol still has game.

Field stripping the P7 is simple after removing the magazine. Press the takedown button, retract the slide and pull up. The slide assembly can then be slid off the barrel. Attached to the slide is the piston, which pivots on a pin. When reassembling, the piston needs to be aligned with the cylinder in the receiver. The process is easy, albeit different from the takedown procedure of a locked breech pistol. The piston and cylinder need special attention when cleaning to ensure carbon and burnt propellant debris is removed. This is more complicated than the process for a locked breech pistol for sure.

The P7 series spawned variants. The P7M8 is a 9mm single-stack with 8+1 capacity, and the P7M13 comes with a 13+1 round capacity. Others included a P7M10 in .40 S&W and a few others. The P7M8 and P7M13 need to be on every pistol shooter’s bucket list. If a pal has one, ask to shoot it. It will be a lot less expensive than purchasing one. If you do buy one, know that it will increase in value and that you will be eating Ramen noodles for a month.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest 2018.

11 Serious Optics for Dangerous Game

David Hart

September 4, 2017

Hunting dangerous game requires you to be on your toes, and that includes using some of the best optics possible for the job.

It’s not just running; it’s running at you. Hey, they don’t call it dangerous game for nothing. Will you have the nerve to stand your ground and finish the job? More important, will your equipment do what you need it to do?

You don’t have time to second-guess your scope when a wounded buffalo is closing the distance. That’s why you get the best equipment money can buy. And that’s why you buy the right equipment for the job. All scopes are not created equal, at least not when your life is on the line. Even binoculars can be a crucial tool in avoiding a brush with death. Here’s a look at the right optics for your next dangerous game hunt.

Swarovski EL 42

It’s hard to believe Swarovski could improve its famously clear EL series binoculars, but it did. The FieldPro package includes features designed to enhance comfort and functionality, including a rotating strap connector, a redesigned objective lens cover, a user-friendly focusing wheel and a diopter adjustment lock. The EL series still features Swarovski’s world-famous glass, edge-to-edge sharpness and high light transmission. 29.5 ounces. ($2,832; SwarovskiOptik.com)

Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6×24

At less than 11 inches, Vortex’s new Viper PST may be the perfect dangerous game scope. It’s not just compact; it’s fast, thanks to the 112-foot field-of-view at 100 yards at 1x. You’ll find your target in an instant, no matter how close it is or how fast it’s approaching. The Viper PST is available with either an MOA or MRAD illuminated reticle with ten intensity levels and is built on a 30mm tube. ($999.99; VortexOptics.com)

SIG Sauer Zulu 9

Dangerous game gets even more dangerous when the sun goes down. That’s why you need a pair of binoculars that offer the highest level of light transmission. SIG’s Zulu 9s fit that bill. Built with fully multi-coated Spectracoat lenses, HDX glass and Abbe-Konig prisms for maximum clarity and sharpness, these binoculars will last you a lifetime. The nitrogen-filled tubes are fog-proof, making them the ideal binoculars for any game in any situation. Available in 9x45mm and 11x45mm.
($1,379.99-$1,439.99; SIGOptics.com)

SIG Sauer TANGO6

Whether you expect long shots or close ones, a snap shot or a slow, deliberate one, SIG’s Tango 6 is everything you are looking for in a dangerous game scope. It includes SIG’s innovative LevelPlex, an anti-cant leveling system that takes the guesswork out of long-range shooting. It’s accurate to within 0.5 degree. The high-speed, low-profile turrets allow for fast target acquisition at any range, and each scope comes with a laser-engraved SIG ballistic turret made to your specifications. Available in four reticle options and five magnification options. ($1,679.99-$3,119.99; SIGOptics.com)

Trijicon AccuPower 1-8×28

This isn’t just a great dangerous game scope; it’s a fantastic scope for just about any situation. Put it on your favorite big-game rifle or your favorite AR platform. It’s right at home no matter where you mount it. Available with either a red or green illuminated, segmented circle/MOA reticle and powered by a single lithium battery, the AccuPower is as reliable as it is versatile. It has 11 brightness settings and an off feature between each setting. The fully multi-coated, anti-reflective glass offers superior clarity and brightness. ($1,699; Trijicon.com)

Zeiss Victory SF

You’ve traveled halfway across the globe, and you’ve saved your entire life for this one moment. Are you going to trust your hunt and possibly even your life to anything but the best? With Zeiss’s Victory Smart Focus binoculars, you’ll never have to worry. Built with the highest-quality glass and a super-wide field of view, the Victory SF allows you to find what you are looking for in an instant. Even better, it has one of the smoothest focusing systems available. Choose between 8×42 and 10×42. Both weigh 27.5 ounces. ($2,849.99; Zeiss.com)

Zeiss Victory V8

The name alone should be enough, but take one look at Zeiss’s Victory V8 scopes and you’ll be sold. Built on a 36mm tube, this beefy, solid scope is the perfect all-purpose topper to your favorite dangerous game rifle. The highest-quality glass allows maximum light transmission for all hunting situations and includes a lighted reticle. Available in four models, including 1-8×30 and 1.8-14×50, you’ll be able to find and hit any target at any range. Each scope comes with a free, custom-engraved Kenton ballistic turret ring and a set of Talley rings and bases. ($2,999.99; Zeiss.com)

Meopta MeoStar B1 10×42 HD Series

It’s always better to spot dangerous game long before it spots you, right? A pair of MeoStars around your neck will help you avoid stumbling into a sleeping lion or a mad buffalo. They are made with extra-low dispersion, high-definition fluoride lens elements to eliminate color fringing in low-light conditions. Each barrel is coated with a protective rubber armor to withstand the most extreme conditions and have sculpted thumb pockets for a comfortable grip. They are guaranteed waterproof and fog-proof and come with a transferrable lifetime warranty. ($1,494.99; MeoptaSportsOptics.com)

Leica Magnus 1-6.3×24

You never realize how vital a wide field of view is until you need to find a moving target right now. With Leica’s Magnus, you’ll never worry about that. The Magnus 1-6.3×24 has a whopping 141-foot wide field of view at the lowest magnification. All Leica scopes are made with the highest quality glass, and the Magnus series includes AquaDura lens coatings. It’s available with four different lighted reticles. All include an adjustable, high-visibility center red dot. ($2,199.99; US.Leica-Camera.com)

Swarovski Z8i 1-8×24

Is there a perfect dangerous game scope? That depends on what you want, of course, but Swarovski’s Z8i series comes pretty close. The 1-8×24 includes a choice of a BRT-I or 4A-IF lighted reticle and has an impressive 127.5-foot wide field of view. There are 64 illumination levels. It’s built with a 30mm tube and Swarovski’s highest-quality glass. All lenses are fully multi-coated and have Swaroclean non-stick coating for easy cleaning. It weighs just 18.2 ounces. ($2,419; SwarovskiOptik.com)

Meopta MeoStar R2 1-6×24

Crystal-clear glass, edge-to-edge clarity, outstanding light transmission and near-perfect color reproduction not only help you hunt longer; it can help you make a shot when it matters most. You get all that and more with Meopta’s MeoStar thanks to MeoLux lens coating and an unparalleled adjustable reticle illumination system visible on even the brightest days. All external lenses are coated with MeoDrop, designed to repel water, skin oils and grease. Available with 4C and BDC reticles. ($1,839.99; MeoptaSportsOptics.com)

Editor's Note: This article is from the April 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Gun Review: Savage MSR 15 Recon

Brian McCombie

August 31, 2017

Savage joins the AR market in a big way with four new rifles, including the sweet-shooting and fast-handling MSR 15 Recon.

Savage MSR 15 Recon Snapshot:

Savage is aggressively charging into the AR market with its line of MSRs (Modern Savage Rifle), with four already released and more on the horizon.
The tested model — the MSR 15 Recon — comes decked out in Blackhawk tactical furniture and Blackhawk flip-up sights, and boasts 5R rifling.
Through more than 400 rounds of testing, the MSR 15 Recon functioned flawlessly, though the rifle produced more recoil than expected from an AR.
The MSR 15 Recon produced the best groups shooting Hornady V-Max ammunition, with 1.5-inch five-shot groups the average.
Overall, in the author's opinion, the MSR 15 Recon is a solid, hardworking choice for hunters, plinkers and those looking for a home-defense option.

Earlier this year, Savage entered into the AR market. Given how crowded and competitive this market has become, you might think Savage would’ve taken a cautious approach, maybe offering up a single rifle to test the waters. But they didn’t.

Instead, Savage Arms rolled out an entire line of AR-15 and AR-10 models, four rifles in all. Dubbed “MSRs,” for “Modern Savage Rifle,” the rifle line is made up of two larger-caliber MSR 10s and a pair of .223/5.56 MSR 15s, the Patrol and the Recon. Savage looks to have more MSR variations coming in the near future. That, on its own, is impressive, and fairly aggressive, too, suggesting that Savage is in the AR game for the long haul.

I had the chance to test one of these new ARs, the MSR 15 Recon model. I found it to be a very functional rifle, accurate and quite reliable. It’s good-looking, too, with a tough finish and excellent Blackhawk tactical furniture.

First Impressions
The MSR 15 Recon came with Blackhawk Flip-Up sights, front and rear. I removed the back sight to mount an optic, a new Millett DMS-2 (Designated Marksman Scope), a 1-6X24mm tactical scope. I secured the scope with a quick-detach Alamo Four Star mount, the DLOC-M4-30mm.

Before shooting, I ran some oiled cleaning patches through the barrel, and they came out clean. Next, I used spray lube on the inside of the upper receiver and the bolt carrier group. Both areas showed a light coating of oil, but I find that ARs run better wet than not, hence the extra lubrication.

I had two separate shooting sessions with the Recon and ran four different brands of ammunition through it. In all, it fired off more than 400 rounds, and I had only a single malfunction when an empty brass case didn’t eject all the way. Otherwise, no problems. The MSR 15 Recon ejected brass forcefully, flinging it a good 5-plus yards away. The bolt also stayed open at the end of each magazine.

At my first shooting session, I zeroed the Millet DMS-2 at 50 yards using Hornady V-Max ammunition, and once I was on the bullseye, I moved to 100 yards. But I didn’t do much for true accuracy testing that first day; I was more interested in finding out how the rifle operated and felt.

The rifle felt very comfortable on the shoulder. But my initial impressions included one surprise: The MSR 15 Recon recoils more than any other .223 Rem. AR I can remember. It’s nothing severe, yet the stock popped back into my shoulder with more force than any .223 Rem. I’ve shot in a good while. If I had fired the rifle blindfolded, I would’ve guessed I was using an AR chambered in .243 Win. which, in the long run, still is very manageable.

Why that extra recoil? I’m not sure, but it could have something to do with the recoil spring. The gas system is another possibility; however, Savage made it clear it had gone to some lengths to match the gas system to the rifles. According to Savage press materials:

“ … many rifles today have 16-inch, mid-length barrels paired with a carbine-length gas system intended for use with a 14-inch carbine barrel. This creates an over-gassed situation that increases recoil and reduces accuracy and durability. All Savage MSR 15 models with 16-inch barrels feature the appropriate mid-length gas system to alleviate this problem.”

If the gas system is fine, I can only guess there’s some difference in the recoil spring versus other ARs or the Blackhawk Axiom Carbine Stock isn’t absorbing much recoil. Again, to be clear, the recoil certainly isn’t aggressive enough to be a deal-breaker.

The Recon uses Blackhawk’s AR Blaze trigger. Initially, it was quite stiff and required some practice to make a shot without jerking the rifle. The trigger loosened up noticeably with use, and by my second shooting session I felt it was at “Mil-Spec Plus.” It’s not custom, but it is a solid trigger with a clean break. My Lyman Electronic Trigger Pull Gauge measured the AR Blaze at an average of 6.5 pounds.

At The Range
For accuracy testing at 100 yards, I used three brands of .223 Rem. ammunition: American Eagle Varmint & Predator, 50-grain JHP; Federal Premium Tactical Rifle Urban (Law Enforcement), 55-grain tactical ballistic tip; and Hornady V-Max, 55-grain.

I got some nice three- and four-shot groups under one inch, but I could only accomplish a single sub-MOA group for five shots. That was a .980-inch group fired with the American Eagle ammunition. That ammo also produced a four-shot group of .668 inch, while the Hornady printed a three-shot cluster at .660 inch. The Hornady V-Max also had the best average of five-shot groups at 1.5 inches.

Savage Engineering
“Savage didn’t make the decision to enter the modern sporting rifle market on a whim, and the configurations didn’t happen overnight,” said JJ Reich, Savage’s communications manager. “We’re best known for our purpose-built bolt actions. But few people realize Savage has also been in the AR business, off and on, for years, quietly creating high-quality barrels for other manufacturers, all the while honing the process to a fine art.”

For barrels on all MSR 15s, Savage employs 5R rifling. Traditional rifling cuts a symmetrical series of four to six lands and grooves directly across from each other. It works and has produced some very accurate rifle barrels. Unfortunately, the 90-degree corners where the lands meet the grooves are hard to clean; fouling can and does build up here, eventually degrading accuracy.

Plus, placing lands directly across from each other constricts bullets tightly, which can lead to deformation and negatively affect accuracy. In 5R rifling, lands are slightly slanted, in a more polygonal shape. They’re easier to clean and less prone to collect fouling. Lands are lined up across from grooves, cradling the bullet just enough to spin it without unnecessary constriction.

Savage also treats all MSR barrels, inside and out, with its “Melonite QPQ” process, the latter part being short for “quench, polish, quench.” The Melonite thermochemical process produces a long-lasting, non-reflective finish harder than chrome and that produces less friction, providing first-rate wear and corrosion resistance

In other words, there’s no worry about wetness, grime or oil sneaking in a degrading the reliability or accuracy of the gun.

Furniture on the Recon includes a free-floating M-LOK handguard and a Blackhawk Knoxx AR grip. The Knoxx grip filled my hand nicely and provided a very tactile surface. The full-length handguard offers plenty of attachment points for a variety of accessories.

The rifle’s twist rate of 1:8 should allow it to handle all loads fine, except maybe the heaviest (1:7 is usually best for these), which means recreational shooters, varmint hunters, plinkers and those needing an AR for home defense should find the Recon a solid, hard-working choice.

Editor Notes: This article is from the Fall 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

How-To: Properly Mounting a Scope on a Rifle

Steve Sieberts

August 31, 2017

Mounting a scope on a rifle is one of those things that can seem fairly straightforward on the surface, but once you actually start doing it, it can go sideways very quickly.

Steps to a precisely mount a scope:

Cleaning the threads — so they are free of any oil, grease or residue — is key at the beginning of the process, ensuring the screws fit properly.
Once the screw lengths are checked in the bases, the rings can be mounted, with a keen eye for alignment; there are nifty tools available that precisely line the rings up.
Side-to-side or angular misalignment can be corrected with a lapping tool and lapping compound; the bottom ring should be worked until there's about 90-percent contact.
Installing Mark 4 rings and bases, the rings should be torqued to 65 in.-lbs. to ensure a tight mount.

When mounting a scope, you must make sure it’s securely mounted and installed on the rifle straight and level. It needs to be securely mounted because, obviously, you don’t want it coming off the rifle while shooting. Catching a scope in your lap, when it’s supposed to be on the rifle, is not conducive to good accuracy. Also, even slight looseness in the scope can cause huge shifts in the point of impact, especially when shooting past 100 yards.

It may seem like you have the scope on tight, but looks can be deceiving — especially with sharp recoiling firearms. You must follow proper torque settings for each part of the mounting system to ensure rock-solid optics. Straight and level are critical because you want to have available the maximum click adjustments in all directions. If you mount a scope and have to use up almost all of your windage or elevation just to get the rifle zeroed, you’ll have little to no adjustment left to account for point of impact variations in different ammunition. The scope reticle must be as mechanically centered as possible to give you the widest range of adjustment.

So for this article I’m going to focus on two types of mounting systems for a centerfire rifle, and the correct way to get the scope securely mounted so it can do its job when needed.

Two-Piece Base and Rings

The first application I’ll talk about is the standard, steel two-piece base with scope rings that utilize a dovetail mount. The dovetail ring fits into the base very snugly by rotating 90 degrees. Many manufacturers use this type of system because it’s strong. I prefer two-piece steel bases over one-piece, because with the latter, if the receiver’s mounting holes are not lined up with the screw holes machined into the base, tightening the base screws can induce stress into the scope mounting system. Granted, it won’t be much, but any stress is to be avoided for maximum accuracy. With the two-piece base, if the front set of screw holes are not aligned with the rear, you can correct that offset somewhat.

To get started, make sure the receiver threads are cleaned of any oil, grease or residue. If rebarreling the rifle, and you have the barrel off the receiver, go ahead and chase out the scope base mounting threads with a good, sharp thread tap. Often the threads have been damaged by attempts from other people to install a scope. Cross threading is a fairly common occurrence with people who are unfamiliar with firearm tools and techniques.

The dovetail system is very strong, but the front and rear ring need to be matched up and aligned for stress-free scope mounting.

If you are removing an old scope and can’t get the original screws out, they may have been screwed on too tight, or the wrong thread locking compound was used, probably the latter. Loctite makes various grades of thread adhesive. Blue is for small/fine threads that you want to be removable, red is for threads that you want to be permanent. Green is for larger threads like 1911 compensators that you don’t want to remove later. Always use blue Loctite for base screws, and never use any adhesive on the ring screws. If you can’t get the base screws off and you suspect someone used the wrong adhesive, remove the scope, and take the barreled action out of the stock. Place a wet towel around the receiver and you can carefully apply heat to the screws with a propane torch to break the bond of the adhesive.

The next step is to degrease the screws and the threads in the receiver. One of the best degreasers I’ve found is Acetone, but it is highly flammable. Automotive brake cleaner works well, too, and has an additional benefit of being in aerosol form. Compressed air is very useful when mounting scopes, or anytime working on firearms around the home workshop. I have a small air compressor from Sears that I bought new for about $120.00 that works very well around the shop.

Once the base screws are degreased, mount the front and rear bases without thread locker. Remove the front base screw and look down into the threads of the receiver and the tip of the screws to see if the screw has bottomed out on the barrel threads. If it has, shorten the screw on a bench grinder to make sure there is no contact between the front screws and the barrel extension. Don’t use a file on the screws — they are too hard and you will end up damaging the file. Screw the bases down onto the receiver and attach the rings to the base.

The front and rear scope rings need to be centered with each other. The alignment tool is very useful to see if the rings are misaligned.

With the Mark 4 mounting system explained later, always attach the rings with the large, keeper nuts to the left of the receiver, rather than on the right, as you don’t want anything interfering with the proper ejection of cases. However, with the dovetail mounting system, attach the top half of the ring of the front set and rotate the ring into the dovetail with a 1-inch piece of wooden dowel rod; a hammer handle works as well. Leupold makes a handy ring wrench for this purpose. The dovetail system causes the most frequent misalignment issues with regards to the front and rear rings, although you also want to check misalignment with the Mark 4 mounting system. The rear ring is adjustable for windage and you want to get that as centered as possible.

When selecting the rings for your particular rifle, always try to get the correct height for your gun. Most scope manufacturers offer low, medium and high rings to accommodate various mounting situations. Choose the combination that mounts the rings at the lowest possible height.

With both rings mounted on the bases, check front to rear ring alignment. Brownells makes a nifty scope ring alignment tool for this task that checks for angular misalignment. With today’s modern mounting systems, you will not likely have to shim the bases to get the rings aligned for elevation, but with side to side or angular misalignment you will need to correct with a lapping tool. Install the scope alignment tool onto the rings and lap them with the lapping compound and plenty of oil until you get about 90 percent contact with the bottom ring. When lapping the rings in, rotate the tool side to side as you run it front to back. Use a figure-eight motion. This will put even pressure all the way around the base of the ring. Check your work as you go, keep good contact. Eventually, you will remove the finish from the bottom of the ring and you will see what kind of contact you are getting.

The scope needs to be mounted as close as possible to the barrel, without touching.

Once you have the rings lapped in, remove them and the bases and clean all lapping compound and oil before reinstalling the bases. This time, apply blue Loctite on the base screws only. I usually clean everything with a good solvent, then degrease using acetone or brake cleaner.

Mark the bottom rings so you don’t get them mixed up. Put the mark on the left side of the rings for orientation — a single stake mark on the rear ring and double stake mark on the front ring. This ensures proper orientation after lapping in the rings. Install the bases. Tighten the base screws down using a torque wrench, the 6-48 screws to about 22 in.-lbs., the larger 8-40 screws torqued to 26 in.-lbs.

Leupold Mark 4 Mounts and Ring System

The other type of system I’ll cover is the Mark 4 mount and ring system from Leupold, which uses a Picatinny rail for the base. These all-steel ring and base systems are very tough.

The lapping tool, with a small amount of lapping compound, will make the rings round and concentric.

When installing the Mark 4 rings and bases, the large ½-inch keeper screws on the rings should be torqued to 65 in.-lbs. Install the rings and use the scope ring alignment tool to line everything up. Make sure you have equal gap between the top and bottom rings, this maintain even pressure when you tighten the top ring screws. And it looks much more professional.

This article is an excerpt from Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms.

6 Simple Ways To Sharpen Your Shot For Hunting Season

Elwood Shelton

August 30, 2017

We’re still frittering away the dog days of summer, but before you know it, hunting season will be upon us. Have you put the work in to be truly ready when you go out to chase deer, elk or what have you? Luckily, there is ample time to make sure you hit the mark when it matters most. With this in mind, here are 6 simple ways to ready yourself for hunting season. They won’t guarantee you bag a trophy, but they’ll have you prepared if the opportunity presents itself.

Choose Your Ammunition
Screw It
Sight In Your Rifle
Get Off The Bench
Break A Sweat
Shoot In Your Gear

Choose Your Ammunition

The day before you head afield to bag that Boone and Crockett whitetail is no time to switch up ammunition. The box of 180-grain soft-points you pluck off the shelf at the outfitters is going to perform differently out of your .30-06 than those 150-grain boat tails you’ve practiced with all summer. The least appropriate time to test the difference between each projectile's wind drift at 400 yards is when there’s a slobberknocker in your crosshairs.

Well before the season starts you should already be going through your ammunition selection process. This includes brushing up on its potential terminal ballistics (does it have what it takes to get the job done?). Test out the round to make certain it performs in your rifle (not every gun likes every load). Get familiar with your chosen round by pitching plenty of it downrange (make certain you aren’t going to flinch come crunch time).

Knowing your ammunition will give you the extra boost of confidence you’ll need in the field and will pay off when you have your wall-hanger in your sights.

Screw It

Screws come loose. That’s the nature of the universe. And few things foul up a hunting trip faster than loose screws that result in a scope rattling in its rings or an action bouncing off its bedding. Plain and simple, your gun isn’t going to shoot straight. This situation is avoidable with a point-by-point check of your rifle.

Armed with your torque-limiting screwdriver and factory-recommended torque specs (available at most gunmakers' websites), check to make certain the action screws are tightened to spec. Next move to the scope; make sure it won’t rotate or slide forward and back in the rings. Also, make sure the mounts don’t have any give to them. If they do, it’s time to pull the scope and cinch up those base screws. It’s handy to have some blue Loctite (repeat BLUE Loctite) and a torque wrench on hand for your scope work.

By all accounts, if you take care of your rifle and shoot it regularly, these should be issues you troubleshot long ago. But it doesn’t hurt to add a layer of redundancy to your hunting regime.

Sight In Your Rifle

Sighting in your rifle is perhaps the single most important pre-season prep you can do. If your scope isn’t on target, how the heck do you expect to hit anything?

There are numerous methods you can use to dial in your rifle, including this handy one from Wayne van Zwoll. And it’s best to do this off a bench on a calm day to eliminate all the possible variables. But sighting in shouldn’t be a one-time deal.

Unless you’re only heading down the road an hour or so from where you live, you should plan on checking your zero once you reach deer or elk or bighorn camp. Jostling around behind your pick-up truck’s seat or getting flung about by airport baggage handlers has the tendency of rousing the gun gremlins. But there’s potentially another reason you should double-check your zero — elevation.

If you leave the flatlands and head into the high country (or vice versa) the atmospheric pressure will have an impact on your bullet’s trajectory. At most typical hunting ranges (200 yards and in), it will be minimal. But go out to 400 yards and beyond, and the difference in bullet drop is measured in inches.

Even if you don’t plan on taking a long shot, it’s worth a couple of rounds just to get a feel for where your bullets are hitting when you’ve added or subtracted 8,000 feet of elevation.

Get Off The Bench

Chances are you aren’t packing a benchrest on your hunting trip. So, it would be a good idea to take some shots in the likely positions you’ll be forced to use in the field. At the bare minimum, this means getting some off-hand shots under your belt and some from the kneeling position.

If possible, it would be a good idea to shoot off equipment you plan to use on your hunt. The only time of year you shoot off sticks shouldn’t be when a top-notch bull elk cuts from the herd. Loop up that sling and hold your target for a good spell. Get your belly in the dirt and build your shooting base off your hunting pack. It’s uncomfortable, grimy and doesn’t always leave those neat little clover-leaf groups we all love. But it’s the sort of sweat equity and forethought that irons out the little kinks of practical shooting and earns you a dang fine rack and a freezer full of meat come the end of the day.

Break A Sweat

Hunting is a physical activity, but there are plenty of people who don’t prepare for it that way. The range is a comfortable place, especially when sub-MOA groups print like they’re rolling off a press. But really, will you have a low heart rate and crystal-clear head when you pull the trigger on that dream mule deer? Didn’t think so.

Most likely, you’re going to have to hump in a good distance to get to your hunting grounds. You’re going to have to execute a stalk once you find your game, almost certainly over rugged terrain. And even if you plan to sit in a treestand or a ground blind, chances are you’ll still be hunting on the way in, with a load of gear on your back. Each and every one of these scenarios will get your heart pumping and your muscles quaking — far from ideal circumstances for placing a precision shot.

You can, however, make certain your aim is steady, even if your body is fighting you before the season starts. A little physical exertion before you shoulder your rifle at the range can go a long way to acclimate you to taking a realistic shot in the field. Yes, it might seem a bit out of place cracking off a set of jumping jacks before settling down behind the trigger. But doing so, you’ll learn how to relax your mind and body quickly, manage and minimize your arc of movement (especially if you aren’t shooting off a rest) and incorporate proper breath control in the blink of an eye.

Sure the guy in the next lane — the one that hasn’t moved six inches in the past hour — might give you the cockeye. But he’ll be the one at a loss when he’s winded and shaky at the moment of truth.

Shoot In Your Gear

Actually, you needn’t get completely decked out in everything you plan to take into the wilds at the range. But it is worth your time to wake up your muscle memory to what it feels like to shoulder your rifle with your gear on.

A thick coat, straps on your pack and winter hunting gloves all drastically change how even the most familiar rifle fits your frame and how you'll operate it. Now is the time to remember how everything comes together with all those extra layers on. Are you still getting a tight cheek weld? How about the trigger; can you cleanly squeeze it? That pack, is it going to inhibit your shot?

Some good old home-based dry fire should do the trick in diagnosing how your gear interacts with your rifle. And don’t hold back. Do more than just shoulder your rifle off-hand and call it good. Get into the logical positions you’ll use in the field, and make sure there are no hang-ups of any kind. This goes double if you’ve bought brand new gear, of which you are unfamiliar.

Like all successful shots, the ones made hunting are about controlling variables. It’s better to account for them now when you can do something about them than when that once-in-a-lifetime moose vaporizes back into the timber because you couldn’t get you’re gloved finger into the trigger guard.

Going the Distance

With Gun Digest Book of Long-Range Shooting, 2nd Edition by L.P. Brezny, get up-to-date with the most recent advances in guns and gear to extend your range for hunting, informal target shooting, and formal competition shooting. This second edition also explores special competitive shooting events, like the 3-gun competition and rifle golf 1000-1500-yard games, addressing their recent explosion in popularity. Additionally, discover new tools for long-range shooters both in the field and on the firing range, with coverage of new developments due to advances in military applied combat theory. Get Your Copy Now

Crimson Trace Laserguard Now Available For LCP II

Elwood Shelton

August 30, 2017

Crimson Trace has increased the low-light capabilities for one of the most popular lightweight, compact pistols with the release of its Laserguard for the Ruger LCP II.

The Laserguard integrates seamlessly into the LCP II, mounting conveniently on the trigger guard of the pistol.
Laserguard models are available with a red or green laser, each intuitively activated by a pressure switch located on the pistol's front strap.
The units feature the same stippling as the LCP II grips, making it appear to be a natural extension of the pistol.

Like a hammer on an anvil, numerous self-defense experts have pounded home the benefits of laser sights. While they’re no replacement for competent use of traditional pistol aiming systems, there’s little arguing they certainly do have their benefits. Chief among them, there is perhaps no more solid system to place rounds on target when light is scarce — and with adrenaline pumping — than these handy sights.

This is good news for fans of one of the most popular lightweight, compact pistols available today, since Crimson Trace recently drew a bead on adding greater low-light capabilities to their handguns. The Oregon manufacturer is now offering two laser sighting options for the Ruger LCP II, configured to seamlessly integrate into the petite pistol, upping its aiming aptitude.

Shooters can choose from red and green laser models of Crimson Trace’s Laserguard sight, configured to mount on the .380 ACP’s trigger guard. And toting one immediately will be a snap, given there are already a host of holsters on the market tailored to carry a LCP II decked out with the sight.

Like all the Laserguard series, the models destined for the compact Ruger pistol offer complete windage and elevation adjustments. And each laser sight comes outfitted with Crimson Trace’s intuitive Instinctive Activation control layout, which is a great advantage. Activated by a normal firing grip through a pressure switch on the front strap, the Laserguard snaps to life the instant it’s needed. This reduces the margin of error of having to fiddle with a button and makes utilizing the sight second nature.

The unit is also finished to blend in with the rest of the LCP II, stippled with the same unique pattern found on the pistol’s grips. It’s a small aspect of the Laserguard for sure. But the end result makes it look sharp and like a natural part of the pistol.

While identical in form and function, the two LCP II-compatible Laserguard models do have a bit of a price difference. The red laser (model LG-497) comes in with an MSRP of $229, while the green laser (model LG-497G) comes in at $309.

P.O. Ackley Quotes: Famous Words Of Wit And Wisdom

Fred Zeglin

August 30, 2017

Best known for his Ackley Improved family of cartridges, the eminent gunsmith P.O. Ackley was also a tireless self-promoter and well-known writer. Here are some of our favorite Ackleyisms.

P.O. Ackley made no secret of his disdain for many popular magnum cartridges.
Ackley responded to hundreds, perhaps thousands of personal letters.
The man was multi-talented when it came to gunsmithing.
He could make the finest barrels or blow up the strongest actions.
And he could offend the thickest-skinned of the rifle intelligencia.

Best P.O. Ackley Quotes

As Col. Charles Askins once said, “With a total interest in the shooting game, with a dedication and a devotion to rifles and their loads, the man had given countless hours, money and effort to the betterment of the existing American family of rifle cartridges. The debt of the shooters of this country to Parker Ackley is a major one.”

P.O. Ackley was careful about the words he published for the general public verses the comments he might write to a friend. A few examples of these comments come from his private letters written to friends and acquaintances.

For example, on large capacity magnums he declares, “Of course, these big ones make more noise and they would be highly efficient if you could scare animals to death.

Letterhead logo from the early days in Trinidad. Collection of Ron Pearson.

“If you look through my Volume I book you will find that about 2,800 fps is about all anyone has been able to get out of a .35 caliber 250-grain bullet, regardless of what case is used,” Ackley wrote to Bevan King. “So anyone claiming 3,400 is either using some highly specialized system or he is a liar. And I am pretty much of the opinion that the latter is correct.”

So, without further ado, here are some more of our favorite Ackley quotes.

Ackley On Extreme Accuracy

Discussing extreme rifle accuracy Ackley wrote to a friend that, “There are not a very high percentage of the shooters who are able to shoot like that no matter how well the gun is made or how accurate it is. I have noticed that some benchrest shooters or target shooters would shoot fifteen or twenty groups and then throw away all but one and then they would brag about their rifle being able to do that every time. You should have seen some that had been thrown away. The more rabid they get on the accuracy kick the more psycho they become.”

Parker On His Critics

“I have been making barrels for forty-four years or more and I don’t know half as much about it as someone who has been at it four years,” said Ackley to a friend.

Insights Into Elmer Keith

“I don’t think Elmer Keith would be caught dead hunting with anything smaller than a .300 Magnum. And he used to tell me that was about minimum for deer. For other stuff he starts up from there. Of course, if you figured things proportionately, guns for moose or bear; the gun would probably be at least 37mm,” Ackley wrote.

Dressing Down Bureaucrats

On property tax Ackley declared, “When I sold the land out back I intended to fix up the house. When we moved to Holiday in 1951 … taxes have gone up so much that I am just letting the joint fall down. If I do any work on it they will come around and reassess it. Like everywhere else we have a surplus of public parasites.”

Dennis- Belm-consulting-P.O-Ackley — Dennis Belm (right) consulting P.O. Ackley (left).

P.O. Ackley On Gunsmithing

“The smoothness thing which is so often proclaimed in the various discussions of the .17 caliber barrels is a myth. It sounds good but it has no basis in fact. I have worked with .17 caliber barrels now for more than 25 years and although I admit I don’t know very much about barrel making after more than 30 years at it, I do know that the best way to get an answer to the problem is to ask someone who has never made a barrel. They can always tell you.”

Taking Down More Magnums

[Magnum cartridges are] “so inefficient that no one in his right mind could see anything good in them except sales possibilities … It would be fine if by putting a belt on a case and advertising it as a magnum it would revolutionize the industry, but it only revolutionizes sales.”

P.O. Ackley On His Competitors

“I have no quarrel with the man who has a lower price. He knows better than anyone else what his product is worth.”

Editor’s Note: This excerpt is from P.O. Ackley: America’s Gunsmith available exclusively at GunDigestStore.com.

Gun Review: The IWI ACE Rifle

Patrick Sweeney

August 29, 2017

The IWI ACE is an evolution of an evolution, which was then further refined.

The Galil was the Israelis’ attempt at improving the AK, turning a sharp eye to what the Finns achieved with the Rk 62. The rifle was not well received; in turn IWI designers went back to the drawing board and mustered the Galil ACE.
Though it has the same gas operation and uses the same magazines as the AK, the ACE has been changed in so many ways it almost defies being called an AK.
The ACE's charging handle is on the left side of the receiver and stops debris from entering the rifle. Other features include an aperture rear sight and front post, a folding stock and a 16-inch barrel topped with a flash hider.

The Soviets designed and fielded the AK. They spread it across the globe, and when the Israelis clashed with their neighbors, they captured lots and lots of AKs. In the process, the Israelis got tired of the small arms they’d been using, so they naturally took a look at the AK.

As firearms history buffs know, the Israelis started off with WWII surplus. They then rearmed with FALs. By the 1970s, the Israeli Defense Forces, or IDF had become extensively mechanized. Trying to exit an armored personnel carrier while handling an FAL, all 44 inches of it (the folder can be made as “compact” as 33 inches) is a real hassle. The AK is much handier.

So, the IDF put all their effort into making an improved AK. With input they gained from looking at what the Finns did with their Rk 62 the result was the Galil.

Well, the Galil was not exactly a market-dominating product. In fact, it wasn’t even well-received in Israel. Especially the 7.62 version, which ended up nearly as long as, and heavier than, an American M14. The power it provided wasn’t worth the hassle of hauling it. The IDF ended up issuing M16s by the swarm, and the IWI designers went back to the drawing boards, with the objections of the Galil by end-users ringing in their ears.

The end result was the IWI Galil ACE, in this instance the product number GAR1639.

We’ll make it simple, from now on it will be called the ACE, because that is a fitting name.

The ACE is a product-improved AK-47/Galil chambered in 7.62×39. I have seen a version chambered in 5.56, but it was select-fire, and that isn’t one we can get here in the good old U.S. of A. The same gas operation, using the same magazines as the AK, the ACE has been changed in so many ways it almost defies being called an AK.

First, the charging handle has been moved to the left side of the receiver. Usually, this causes problems in the AK, because the charging handle needs an access slot, and that means a big gap through which debris can enter. IWI designed and installed a dual-hinged spring-loaded cover for this gap.

When the bolt is forward, the cover is pressed up by the springs, covering the gap. When the action cycles, the charging handle presses the cover down against its springs. When the action closes up again, the cover slides up, covering the gap — ta-da, the gap is open only for a moment, when the action is cycling, and the chances of something getting in are so remote as to be unworthy of concern.

And yes, the charging handle reciprocates. On the FAL, it does not. But the charging handle on an AK is many things — it is a charging handle, forward assist, and lever you use to get the action open when you’ve rusted or mudded it shut. It reciprocates.

Since the charging handle is on the left, the right side of the carrier would be slick. IWI put a machined recess there, which you can use as a forward assist.

The top cover is tightly fitted to the receiver, with no perceptible wobble. Which is good, because in place of the notch and post of the AK, the sights of the ACE are a proper aperture rear, and a front post. This greatly increases the sight radius, and also improves the eye/brain ability to recognize alignment error.

The rear sight is a flip sight, with two apertures, and each is marked. One is marked “3” and has a pair of tritium cells for night use flanking the aperture, but a bit below it. That’s your 300-meter zero sight. The other one lacks the tritium, and is marked “5.” That’s your 500-meter sight, and if you can use tritium dots on a 500-meter target at night, you have far better vision than any of the rest of us.

On the top cover is a Mil-Std. 1913 rail, commonly miscalled a Picatinny rail. The gas tube also has this rail, at the same level and aligned with it. The top cover rail has a tenon that wedges into the groove in the rear of the gas tube rail, so they are mutually supported. This arrangement provides you with a full-length rail, onto which you can put optics, magnifying or red-dot. You can install lights, lasers, night vision, thermal optics, whatever fits and is found useful and worthy of the weight. Fair warning: the gas tube on an AK can get hot, so you might not want to park something on that part of the rail, if it is heat-sensitive.

The front sight is in the gas block, and the block is aligned so the gas port is vertical, not slanted. The gas block is pinned on with a pair of transverse pins, located below the barrel. This is the way the Finns did it, unlike the Soviets, who commonly pinned above the barrel. Both work though I find I like the looks of the below method more.

The front sight post is another interesting departure from vanilla-plain AK. The post is tapered, and has a tritium cell in it. How do they keep it facing the shooter, you ask. The post base has two flanges. If you are adjusting the sights for zero, press down the spring-loaded plunger for adjustment, turn the post and check.

Once you get the zero dead-on, depress the plunger only enough to free the top flange, and turn the post cover until the opening for the tritium cell faces the shooter. And the mystery of the low tritium cells on the rear sight is now solved. Since the tritium on the front sight can’t be at the very tip of the sight, but below the tip, the rear cells are also lower, so you’ll be properly aligned. Clever, no?

The sight adjustments are 1 inch at one hundred yards, per click or adjustment notch. Interestingly, the rear sight can be removed from the top cover. I’d hazard a guess that’s to make it easy to replace when it gets dropped by some fumble-fingered recruit.

On the backend, the stock is both adjustable and folding. The adjustments work like the AR — squeeze the lever to unlock it, and slide the buttstock forward or back to the length that is comfortable. Fully shortened (11.85 inches of pull) my nose almost touches the receiver, and the receiver bumps me a bit when I’m firing. I can see the front sight wings through the aperture. Fully back (15.25 inches of pull) the wings are almost but not quite visible outside of the rear sight plate. That’s a lot of adjustment, with five separate stops.

The buttplate is ridged, hard plastic. There is a clip-on cheek piece you can use that allows you to have a proper cheek weld for use with optics.

The stock folds to the right, the ejection port side. It doesn’t interfere with ejection, and doesn’t bind the safety/selector (more on that shortly). The stock locks in place when it is unfolded, so it won’t fold on you when you are using it.

The lock is simple; it is taken directly from the FN design for folding stocks. To unlock and fold, press the stock assembly down toward the ground, against the locking spring. Once the locking latch clears the notch, hinge the stock to the right, toward the ejection port.

The hinge pin has an angled head, and the angle will let the pin ride up when you fold the stock. The pin will cam down when you force the stock open, but the stock is not mechanically locked while folded. This is clever and correct. You want the stock locked open when you use it as a stock. You do not need the stock locked while folded, because if you want to unfold it you don’t want to be messing around with buttons, levers or other such problems. Just grab the stock and flip it open.

Inside the top cover is the expected carrier and bolt. Getting the cover off can be an adventure. The retaining tab is longer than on a Soviet AK (as on the Galil/Golani), the tight fit of the top cover can make getting the retainer pressed in — and kept in while the cover is lifted — a whole lot of work.

Inside the recoil spring assembly not only has a synthetic impact block (I’m going to try as hard as possible to avoid calling it a shok-buff) but the back of the retainer features a rubber slip pad, or cover. This rides between the retainer assembly and the inside rear of the cover. Interestingly, the parts list describes it as #23, Blocker, Gas Injection. Hmm, never did get gas up the nose from an AK, but OK.

The bolt and carrier come out to the rear and lift up just as with a standard AK, but as you move them you’ll discover an improvement the Israelis added in — the gas tube is not held in with a lever, as on a standard AK, but slides into place on a short set of rails. The top cover holds the gas tube in place. You can take the top off, the bolt and carrier out, and the gas tube off in a matter of seconds with no risk of stabbing yourself with a screwdriver, or gouging the finish.

Inside the milled receiver is a standard two-hook, two-stage trigger, with the disconnector positioned and timed to act as the stop on the second stage.

The safety/selector is a lever on the upper rear right of the receiver, and is not the cover over the ejection port. In fact, there is no cover over the ejection port. If you think it is out of the way and a bit difficult to reach, you’re wrong. Well, those with small hands will find it tough, but the lever is positioned nicely to your trigger finger. But you needn’t fear, there’s one on the left side, just above the pistol grip.

That’s right, IWI has figured out how to not only put a safety lever in two places where you can reach them, but give it the leverage it needs so you can actually move it. It’s a safety you can work without taking your firing grip off of the rifle. The safety on the right side bears against the stock when folded, but the stock does not keep the safety from moving.

Now, “leverage enough” can be a relative thing. I can push the right-hand side lever from Safe to Fire with my trigger finger. However, I cannot push it back to Safe. For that, I have to use my thumb, and the lever on the left side. You may find yours is easier, or your hands stronger, but be aware and remember you have two levers.

The next change is the bottom metal of the receiver or, actually, the bottom polymer. The pistol grip, magazine catch and magazine guide box are all made of a high-strength polymer. This polymer assembly is semi-permanently attached to the receiver, and is not meant to be removed by the user. If you really feel the need, there are a couple of big screws, one in the pistol grip, the other in front of the magazine well that hold it on. I suggest leaving them alone, because there’s nothing good you can do with it off.

You may be looking at the ACE and thinking, “This is nice, but those are some awesomely fat handguards, and there’s no place to mount my light.” Oh, ye of little faith. Notice the buttons on the sides of the handguards? Those are the locking tabs. Press in and the handguard cover slides forward, and off the handguard base. Just like that, you have railed handguards. All three come off at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The first person to complain that these are pic rails, and not M-Lok or Keymod, gets slapped.

Last, we have the flash hider. It is threaded onto the 16-inch barrel. The barrel is chrome-moly-Vanadium steel, cold hammer forged, and chrome-lined. The flash hider looks a bit long because it uses a lock nut behind it to hold the flash hider in the correct orientation without using crush washers or other delicate tools.

As a design a military armorer can deal with, it is simple and rugged. Suppose a trooper blows his flash hider apart, having clogged it with mud and then firing his rifle. The unit armorer simply uses a pair of open-end wrenches (and the guy in the unit with the biggest hands, to hold the rifle flat on the bench) to loosen the jam nut. He then spins the old parts off, cleans the threads, spins the new ones on, orients the new flash hider correctly, and tightens the jam nut up behind it. He doesn’t even need a vise or other tools.

The last detail is interesting. The ACE comes into the country in a non-922(r) compliant condition. IWI U.S. then installs U.S.-made parts to make it 922(r) compliant. However, they do note that you should use only a U.S.-made magazine. Use of imported magazines may put you in violation of 18 U.S.C. § 922(r). Since they ship it with a Magpul magazine, this seems pretty clear.

They are depending on one, two or all three of the magazine parts to keep the ACE in compliance. OK, just make sure to use U.S.-made magazines. That will be easy. Once Magpul announced their magazines (and Tapco joined the party), I have not bought an imported magazine for the AK since. Actually, except for the period-specific builds, none of my AKs are going to experience anything but a Magpul, Tapco, or other U.S.-made magazine.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest Book of the AK & SKS, Volume II.

How Does Barrel Bedding Affect Accuracy?

Jon R. Sundra

August 29, 2017

Not all barrel bedding is equal. Bedding dynamics can increase or decrease a rifle's accuracy.

What are some things to know about bedding dynamics and accuracy?

Today, generally the most common bedding method is to bed the receiver and free float the barrel.
To get the best accuracy from a rifle, you need the pressure dynamic between the barrel and stock to remain constant, or as constant as possible. This can sometimes vary quite a bit in a traditional wood-stocked rifle based on things like temperature and humidity.
Pillar bedding and V-Block bedding are two alternative bedding systems that are growing in popularity among manufacturers.

There are many factors that affect accuracy, but next to the barrel itself, none is more important than the bedding dynamics between the stock and the barreled action. Accuracy can be looked at from two different perspectives: 1) pure grouping ability and 2) a rifle’s ability to maintain zero.

The two are not the same. Pure grouping ability refers to how tight the average group measures, regardless of where that group is on the target, while a rifle’s ability to maintain zero refers to the point of impact (POI) relative to where we as a shooter expect it to be. In a hunting rifle, consistent POI is more important than pure accuracy.

There are a number of ways a bolt-action rifle can be bedded. Bull barrels and heavy varmint/target barrels vibrate less violently upon the fall of the firing pin, ignition and bullet movement than sporter-weight versions, and generally shoot just as well when free floated as they do when bedded.

Barrel Bedding - 2 — Most production rifles with one-piece wood stocks are factory bedded using a pressure band at the forend tip, which is the only contact between forearm and barrel. It can either be filed away to float the barrel or shimmed to apply more pressure.

The most common method employed today by production rifle manufacturers is to bed the receiver and free float the barrel. This practice has evolved over the past generation or so, as one-piece stocks of walnut (or other hardwoods) have been replaced by much more stable synthetics and wood laminates. This method is not used because free floating has proven superior in all cases, but rather, it’s because it’s easier from a manufacturing standpoint.

Generally speaking, slender, lightweight barrels shoot best when there’s dampening pressure being exerted by the stock either at the forend tip or by contact over the entire length of the forend. Most light carbine and sporter-weight rifles are bedded using the former approach.

By hogging out the barrel channel to where it’s 1/16-inch or more deeper and wider than it has to be, but stopping an inch or so short of the forend tip, the remaining raised band provides the dampening pressure at the tip. When the forward action screw is cinched up, the stock is actually bowed inward, and that is what produces the tension against the barrel.

Dampening barrel pressure can also be exerted the entire length of the barrel channel, but to accomplish that you must have perfect surface contact the entire length of the forearm, which is best achieved through glass bedding.

For a rifle to group its best and maintain zero, the pressure dynamic between the barrel and stock must remain constant, particularly in the case of lightweight barrels that are being dampened only at the forend tip. Traditional one-piece stocks of walnut have proven to be fairly good at keeping this pressure relationship constant, as long as the wood is thoroughly sealed not only on the outside, but on all inlet surfaces as well.

If truth be told, though, all wood stocks have at least a 5 percent moisture content, so it’s pretty rare for a one-piece stock to maintain a constant tip pressure against the barrel from season to season, or when the rifle is transported to a region where the humidity is vastly different. Then, too, the thinner the barrel, the more POI and accuracy are both affected by the forend position, whether on a sandbag or held in the hand, whether a shooting sling is being used to apply dynamic tension to steady the rifle, or if a bipod is attached to the forend.

Barrel Bedding 1 — Wood laminated stocks are virtually inert if properly sealed. The consistent gap shown here on either side of the barrel channel is not likely to change regardless of environment.

Stock Swell
I know it’s difficult to believe that a chunk of wood like a rifle stock can swell, contract and warp, but they all do to some degree depending on seasonal humidity, or when subjected to drenching rain or wet snow. As to just how much a stock can warp, that can be seen only on a rifle that has a fully floated barrel, that is, with a visible space along the seam line on both sides of the barrel.

I have owned some walnut-stocked guns in which the barrel would be perfectly centered in the channel during the low humidity months of winter, and in the summer the forend tip would be touching the barrel on one side with a 1/8-inch gap on the other. Depending on the direction of the warp, imagine how much pressure such movement exerts or removes from a barrel.

Believe me when I say there can be as much as 30 to 40 pounds of pressure on the barrel at one time of year, and zero at another. That, of course, is an extreme example, but changes of just a few pounds of tip pressure against or away from the barrel can bring about significant shifts in POI.

Can accuracy and consistency of zero be achieved with a one-piece wood stock? Sure, but several conditions have to be just right, and the thinner the barrel, the more difficult it becomes.

It’s far easier to achieve with a wood laminate or a synthetic stock, with the barrel either fully or partially floated. A wood laminate that is properly sealed inside and out with a urethane-type finish is virtually immune to warping, and a laid-up stock of fiberglass or Kevlar is definitely so. If the bedding is right, it stays right.

Like I said, the most common bedding approach used today is to glass bed the receiver and float, or partially float, the barrel. I prefer the latter, in which the receiver and the chamber portion of the barrel are bedded, stopping at the point where the barrel begins its straight taper to the muzzle. Placing a small shim the thickness of a matchbook cover at the forend tip prior to the bedding procedure will ensure a fully floated barrel.

Slender barrels — say less than .575-inch at the muzzle — tend to group best when the stock is exerting dampening pressure. If after range testing you’d like to see how the rifle shoots with dampening pressure, simply place two shims at the forend tip.

Barrel Bedding - 4 — H-S Precision pioneered the aluminum bedding block chassis around which the U.S. Army’s M24 sniper rifle is designed. The concept has since been copied.

A couple of alternate bedding systems we’re starting to see more manufacturers take advantage of include pillar bedding and V-block bedding. With a true pillar-bedded rifle, the receiver actually sits on two “stilts” of aluminum or steel, and there is no actual contact between the stock and the receiver or barrel.

The pillars are nothing more than steel tubes through which the action screws pass and are just slightly longer in length than the action screw holes. The pillars are flush or slightly below the bedding surface of the receiver and serve primarily to preclude stock compression.

The V-block system, which was developed by H-S Precision for the Army’s M24 sniper rifle, consists of a hardened aluminum bedding chassis permanently molded into the company’s hand-laid Kevlar/graphite-reinforced fiberglass stocks. The latest twist to the V-block principal can be seen in Ruger’s American and Savage’s Axis rifles.

Steel blocks are embedded into the injection molded stocks and serve to support the receiver and act as recoil lugs by engaging grooves on the underside of the receiver. Either makeup is meant to provide economy of production, but more importantly, consistency to that critical relationship between a rifle’s stock and its barreled action.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the May 2015 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Classic Guns: The Ruger Blackhawk Revolver

Jerry Lee

August 29, 2017

In the 1950s, Ruger introduced the venerable Blackhawk revolver, which remains both a desirable collector piece and a popular current-production gun.

What makes the Ruger Blackhawk a popular revolver, both in terms of current production and as a collector's piece?

Introduced in 1955, the Blackhawk was Ruger's first centerfire revolver, and it's still produced more than 70 years later.
While development of the .44 Magnum was underway, both Ruger and S&W strove to introduce the first .44 Magnum revolvers, Ruger with an updated Blackhawk and S&W with the .44 Magnum, later known as the Model 29.
There were a number of Blackhawk variants developed, including the Super Blackhawk, Flattop Blackhawk and the New Model series, along with a number of different caliber options.
The Flattop models tend to command the highest values on the collector's market.

In 1950 Bill Ruger’s gun company was on its way to becoming a major player in the industry, thanks to the success of his .22 Standard Pistol that had been introduced the previous year. The co-founder of Sturm, Ruger & Co. was ready to take the next step and add another product to the line. Ruger had always been a fan of single-action revolvers. He liked the simplicity and reliability of the old Colt design, along with its graceful shape and the way it felt in the hand.

Ruger Blackhawk Revolver - Bill Ruger — Image courtesy Sturm, Ruger & Co.

Western movies were very popular in the late ’40s and early ’50s, and virtually every cast member was armed with a single-action sixgun. The Colt Single Action Army had been out of production since 1940, and the company had announced it was no longer going to be made. Timing, as they say, is everything. Bill Ruger saw that the time was right to create a new, up-to-date single-action for a waiting market. His idea was to make a rimfire six-shooter as a companion to his Standard to be known as the Single-Six.

Find Out More About Ruger Firearms

Work on the model was under way in 1951 and, by the end of 1953, Sturm, Ruger & Co. had its second handgun on the market. Like the .22 semi-auto pistol, the Single-Six was a big success and became very popular with plinkers, campers, hikers and small-game hunters.

The success of the Single-Six encouraged Bill Ruger to take the next step in the development of his line of handguns, a larger centerfire model, with the overall size about the same as the Colt. Like the Single-Six, it would be patterned after the Colt but with several changes, including an adjustable rear sight and coil springs instead of leaf springs in the action. It was decided that the new revolver would be chambered in .357 Magnum, the most versatile choice because it would also fire the .38 Special.

In 1955, Ruger’s first single-action centerfire revolver was introduced with a suggested retail price of $87.50 and was called the Blackhawk. In addition to his interest and affection for firearms, Bill Ruger was an admirer and collector of classic automobiles. One of his favorites was the Stutz Blackhawk. (Yet to come to the Ruger line was the Bearcat, named for another Stutz auto.) Barrel lengths of the Blackhawk were 4.625, 6.5 and 10 inches. Only a few hundred were made with the 10-inch barrel.

Ruger Blackhawk Old Model 1 — Image courtesy Sturm, Ruger & Co.

Diversifying The Legend
The Blackhawk went on to become one of the most successful Ruger firearms. It’s still being manufactured 72 years after its introduction, and, as would be expected, there have been several changes to the original design.

One of the first was the addition of a new cartridge for the Blackhawk. It was being developed by Remington and Smith & Wesson and would be called the .44 Remington Magnum. Based on a lengthened .44 Special case, it was designed for a firearm that would also use .44 Special ammo, like the relationship between the .357 Magnum and .38 Special. In 1956, Bill Ruger learned the .44 Magnum was being developed and quickly decided to chamber it in the Blackhawk, beefing up the cylinder and frame to handle the heavier recoil. Barrel lengths of 6.5, 7.5 and 10 inches were to be offered. The latter two lengths are worth a premium on the collector’s market.

There was somewhat of a race between Ruger and S&W to get the first .44 Magnum revolver to market. Depending on who you talk to or what you read, the winner could be either one. Phrases such as “went into production” or “was introduced” are not necessarily the same in the gun business, nor is an exact date when a gun is first sold in a retail setting. But in either event, by the end of 1956, both Ruger and S&W were in the .44 Magnum business, Ruger with the Blackhawk and S&W with what was then known simply as the “.44 Magnum” revolver, later called the Model 29.

Not long after the .44 Magnum Blackhawk hit the market, Ruger began to receive complaints about the six-gun’s stout recoil. The answer was the Super Blackhawk, a larger model with a heavier frame, more substantial Dragoon-style grip, non-fluted cylinder and squared trigger guard. It was introduced in 1959, with the early models sold with a mahogany carrying case, smooth walnut grips and a 7.5-inch barrel. A few hundred were made with a 6.5-inch barrel, and about 1,600 with a brass frame.

The original cylinder top strap was flat-shaped and, in 1962, was reshaped to offer more protection to the rear sight. After this change, the earlier model became known as the Flattop Blackhawk. This was in 1962 at about serial number 42,600. That same year, several new calibers were added to the original Blackhawk including the .41 Magnum, .45 Colt, .30 Carbine and convertible models with interchangeable cylinders in .357/9mm or .45 Colt/.45 ACP. Other variations to the original Blackhawk over the years included several different grip options, reshaping of the ejector rod and a brass frame for a few rare models.

The biggest change to the Blackhawk (and all Ruger single actions, including the Super Blackhawk, Single-Six and Bearcat) was the New Model series. This major change involved a transfer bar that allowed each model to have a fully loaded cylinder.

Early classic single actions were all essentially “five shooters,” and wise shooters always carried them with the hammer resting over an empty chamber. This was a safety issue to ensure the firearm would not discharge if dropped. This change occurred in 1973, and all subsequent Ruger single actions have the transfer bar operating system. With the transfer bar lockwork, the hammer is never in contact with the firing pin. Unless the trigger is pulled, the gun cannot fire. When the trigger is pulled, the transfer bar pivots to a point between the hammer and the firing pin, and when the hammer strikes the bar the energy transfers to the firing pin.

Editor's Note: This Collector's Corner column is an excerpt from the Fall 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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Gun Review: Gunwerks RevX Long-Range Rifle

Eric Conn

August 25, 2017

Gunwerks’ RevX in 7mm Rem. Mag. proves that it’s fully capable of delivering 1,000-yard performance out of the box.

The RevX is a highly capable long-range rifle that's great for the range but also excels when taken afield.
Gunwerks' RevX proved incredibly accurate, with the author achieving a remarkable .301-inch best group.
The RevX is loaded with features, including a 2-pound TriggerTech trigger; a Shilen hand-lapped, match-grade barrel; and an ultra-lightweight fiberglass stock.

One thousand yards out of the box. That’s the Gunwerks promise, which has intrigued me for years but has until now gone untested, at least by me. Given all the variables in bullet loads, triggers and barrel construction, to name just a few factors that greatly alter the long-range equation, I’ve always been skeptical of yardage or accuracy claims from manufacturers. Can any rifle maker honestly live up to that hype — not in a hyper-controlled range environment, but in real-world hunting scenarios?

To put the Gunwerks claim to the test, I took its newest rifle, the RevX in 7mm Rem. Mag., on a three-day backcountry excursion in the rugged wilderness of Idaho in search of spring black bear. The country is unforgivingly steep, with rock faces and slopes that replicate sheep and goat terrain. It’s in this type of country the long-range rifle becomes absolutely essential — a bear spotted across a canyon might be 700 or 800 yards and a makeable shot with the right setup, but in order to close the distance to 300 yards with a standard rifle, a hunter would have to hike down and back up the other side, which could take hours.

What makes the Gunwerks platform so extraordinary is that the company has literally built an entire package to eliminate as many variables as possible and give the shooter the best odds at conquering their go-long dreams. The RevX shipped to me with a Nightforce NXS 5.5-22x scope already installed and sighted in, paired with a custom G7 turret that matches yardage with a G7 BR-2 rangefinder, also included.

The folks at Gunwerks had already test fired the gun with custom loads they’d developed for the 7mm, which featured a 168-grain Berger VLD (Very Low Drag, BTHP) projectile. The VLD is an accomplished long-range bullet, with scores of fans in the long-range hunting community to testify to its greatness. As the name implies, it shoots flat and retains impressive velocities out to extended range. According to Gunwerks, the VLD they’ve loaded leaves the muzzle at 3,010 fps and has about 220 inches of drop at 1,000 yards.

After sending the rifle my way, Gunwerks’ marketing director, Landon Michaels, assured me the rifle was grouping reasonably well. Looking for hard data to verify his claim, I headed out to the range, hung targets and set up my Caldwell BR Pivot shooting bench at 100 yards for accuracy testing. I’d forgotten my Lead Sled, so I was relegated to using a pair of sandbags and a hoodie to brace the buttstock.

The TriggerTech trigger, the first thing I noticed, is an absolute dream, with an incredibly clean, crisp break that’s right around 2 pounds. The fiberglass stock, which features a flat forend for optimal setup on bags or in the prone position off a backpack, is as well weighted as any I’ve shot.

I squeezed off three rounds, rested and then repeated two more times to collect data from three different three-shot groups. As I shot, the groups just kept tightening up.

The first group came in at .6 inch and the second at .5 inch. As I settled into my comfort zone with the rifle, I fired the last three shots. That was the group that made me a believer — three shots in one tiny little hole, .301 inch on the digital caliper. Without question one of the best groups I’ve ever shot through any rifle.

Next, I wanted to test the range-and-shoot capabilities of the G7 BR-2 rangefinder, which Gunwerks has conveniently matched with yardage markers on the G7 custom turret out to 1,000 yards. The other great feature on the G7 is that it’ll give you MOA windage estimates at whatever distance you’re ranging, with 5 mph increments that you can select from. I set up a steel target and, with only a backpack for a rest, ranged the target at 617 yards; I then set up in the prone position from a distant hillside.

Dialing my G7 turret to 620 yards, I held just below center of target and squeezed off a round. Concussion, followed by the unmistakable wallop of bullet hitting steel. I’d be lying if I said there wasn’t an ear-to-ear grin plastered across my face, the kind you’d get that first time you mash the pedal and feel the raw horsepower of a performance engine. This long-range game is addictive to say the least.

Built for Distance
The anatomy of a high-performance long-range rifle is actually pretty simple to figure out, though never easy to deliver on. It starts with a quality barrel and trigger and ends with a precisely crafted and properly bedded stock, not to mention an impressive piece of glass.

At the heart of the Gunwerks RevX is a standard sporter contour Shilen barrel (with other contour options available), among the finest in the industry. The rifle features aluminum bedding blocks and a fiberglass, lightweight stock that is perfect for the all-day carry of places like Idaho’s wilderness. The hand-painted stock features a front-mounted Picatinny rail for bipods and a sling swivel point. The rifle comes with a slender yet sturdy Gunwerks sling, rubberized and textured on one side, which attaches at either side of the buttstock via push button sling swivel mounts.

As I said earlier, the rifle balances beautifully, making prone or freehand shots incredibly stable. The TriggerTech trigger is, as stated, remarkable, and the Nightforce NSX offers tremendous magnification and clarity, something that’s absolutely essential when shooting at 1,000 yards and dealing with thermals, sun glare and varying light conditions. You don’t have to go with the Nightforce scope, however, and Gunwerks will zero whichever scope you prefer, but I can’t say I’ve ever been disappointed with Nightforce’s performance and build quality.

The one-piece bolt and handle function smoothly and are aesthetically appealing, while a two-position safety rests perfectly at the rear of the action, allowing you to right thumb it without changing your grip position. Speaking of grip, the vertical contour of the stock is the equivalent of a shooter’s La-Z-Boy, helping you to keep a stable yet comfortable grip for optimal trigger press.

Parting Shots
Although I personally didn’t have any black bear success in Idaho — tough bears to come by in even tougher country — I came away absolutely enamored with Gunwerks and its rifle builds. Looking for some action at the end of the hunt, my friend David worked the spotter’s role for me, ranging a large white rock at 850 yards with the G7 rangefinder. A quick turn of the turret and one shot, direct hit. An absolute shooting aficionado and lifelong skeptic, even David was impressed.

“So where can I get one of these rifles?” he asked, grinning.

The RevX is a dealer exclusive rifle, offered through Cabela’s, Scheels and EuroOptic.com, and as such represents a lower price point rifle than the company has previously produced. While the rifle I shot was chambered in 7mm Rem. Mag., the RevX is also available in 6.5 Creedmoor, .300 Win. Mag. and .300 Rem. Ultra Mag. It’s not exactly cheap, starting at $4,000 (without scope), but it is much cheaper than other Gunwerks models, which start at roughly $10,000. And worth every penny, I might add.

If I was going to get into the long-range hunting world and didn’t have endless hours to tinker with loads and gear, the RevX would be my go-to option. It is quite simply one of the most impressive rifles I’ve ever shot, and that includes many custom-type builds. Phenomenal accuracy, top-of-the-line trigger and barrel, and the genius of a completely configured system — all of this forces me to give it an A+. For open country that demands long shots, there’s no other way I’d rather go. Let the revolution begin!

Specifications:

Gunwerks RevX Rifle
Type: Bolt-Action
Caliber: 7mm Rem. Mag.
Action: RevX GRB, Wyatt Length
Bolt: One-piece bolt & handle, field strippable
Stock: Natural hold, vertical grip; aluminum bedding blocks; ultra-lightweight fiberglass
Barrel: Shilen hand-lapped, match-grade
Scope: Nightforce NXS 5.5-22x, custom G7 turret
Rangefinder: G7 BR-2
Trigger: Trigger Tech
Case: Custom cut hard case
Manufacturer: Gunwerks; dealer exclusive at Cabelas, Scheels & EuroOptic.com

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the June 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

What Are Your Options For AR Optics?

Tiger McKee

August 25, 2017

There are a lot of choices out there when it comes to AR optics. Make sure you choose the right one for your rifle's intended purpose.

What are your basic choices when it comes to AR optics?

Red-dot Sights
Traditional Magnified Optics
Low-Light/Night Vision Optics
Back-Up Sights

Today, it’s rare to see an AR without some type of optic on it, but it wasn’t always this way. I remember attending training classes where one guy might have some type of scope on his AR — in the “old” days there were only a couple of options for attaching optics to the AR. Now, it’s considered almost primitive — like bow-and-arrow-type technology — if you don’t have some kind of optic on your AR.

History
From the very beginning, in an effort to make the AR more versatile, mounting optics was a priority. Colt experimented with “flat-top” uppers in the early days, although they weren’t readily available, especially to the public. Back in the '80s when I looked into scopes for my first AR, there was the “Delta” scope, a Tasco 3-9x variable power optic and smaller fixed-power scopes with three- or four-power magnification.

Both style scopes mounted to the carry handle of the AR, so your eye had to be about 4 inches above the stock. To create a proper cheekweld on the stock you used a clamshell that bolted around the stock that provided a higher comb (it has a cutout in it for the charging handle). Both of these scopes worked well, but neither really “fit” the AR and its applications.

The first flat-tops I ever saw were handmade. Guys cut the carry handle off the receiver, and then they bolted a section of rail onto the receiver. In 1994, the U.S. military adopted the M4 carbine with a flat-top upper. You can attach a carry handle to it, but it was built to allow you to mount almost any type of optic to the AR. In 1997, Colt introduced its first “accurized” AR with a flat-top receiver. I purchased one of these upper assemblies, stripped it down and used the flat-top receiver on my carbine. Eventually flat-tops became “standard,” and a host of AR optics designed specifically for the rifle became available.

Red-Dot Remedies
The most popular AR optics are red-dots. These sights use a couple different methods to create a red dot or point of aim inside the optic. They’re quick to acquire, easy to use and almost parallax free. Aimpoint was the first to offer this type scope in 1975, and today there are dozens of companies offering red-dots.

Red-dots are extremely simple. Once zeroed, you focus on the target, place the dot where you want the bullet to hit — compensating for distance and windage — and press the trigger. They work great at close range and are accurate enough for mid-range work, too.

There are a variety of methods to mount the red-dot. One of the major differences is choosing between what’s called “1/3” or “½” co-witness. The 1/3 setup positions the optic a little higher above the bore. The backup sights will be in the bottom 1/3 of the red dot’s window. If the dot fails or stops working, you simply lower your cheekweld slightly to acquire the irons.

The ½ co-witness mounts the optic slightly lower, with the red-dot and iron sights lined up. With your eye centered while looking through the optic, the dot and the mechanical sights are aligned. If the dot stops working, there’s no movement required to get the iron sights lined up in front of your eye.

Even if you have an older AR with a carry handle, you can still attach a red-dot by using a “dog-leg” mount. This mount attaches at the carry handle and extends forward, dropping down over the carry handle. This mount locates the red-dot in a “scout,” or forward-mounted location. Holes in the mount allow you to still use the iron sights.

Make sure when zeroing your red-dot that the bullets are hitting in the center of the dot. The most common dot sizes are 2- and 3- or 4-MOA dots, which means at 100 yards the dot appears to be 2, 3 or 4 inches in size. A 2-minute dot covers 2 inches of target at 100 yards, 4 inches of target at 200 yards and 6 inches at 300 yards. If the bullets are actually hitting on the left side of the dot as opposed to the center, this can be the difference between a hit and a miss at extended ranges.

‘Traditional' Optics
The flat-top receiver also allows you to attach a traditional magnified riflescope. Because the carry handle has been removed, the scope mounts lower and there’s normally no need to increase the comb of the stock.

A lot of the magnified optics now have pre-calculated reticles, with hash marks calculated for various bullet weights and distances. After establishing the initial zero, you simply hold on the reticle for that distance, calculate for the wind and you’re good to go.

Normally a variable-power, traditional-type optic will extend farther back on the receiver for proper eye relief. The scope is now over the charging handle, so you’ll likely need a charging handle with extended and ambidextrous latches. I highly recommend Mech Armor’s TacOps-1 charging handle. It has extended ambidextrous latches, which allow you to cycle from either side — important when working from various positions — and is almost unbreakable.

There are also scopes set up as a two-power optic, sort of a high and low — with no in between. For example, Elcan’s SpecterDR is a 1x and 4x power scope. It has a lever that you flip to switch from one setting to the other. This lets you work with one-power red-dot mode for a wide field of view and rapidly acquiring the target. And, unlike traditional adjustable scopes, the eye relief — the distance between your eye and the rear objective — is the same for both 1x and 4x power. The bad news is that these scopes start at about $1,400 and go up from there.

A good quality, affordable option is Leupold’s Mark AR MOD 1 1.5-4x scope. This is a variable-power scope with a minimum magnification of 1.5x and a green dot. On low power, you can use it with both eyes open just like a red-dot, similar to the Scout Rifle scope. Twist the adjusting ring and you work up to 4x, plenty of magnification for mid-range shooting. These scopes are great for self-defense, hunting and patrol work.

One of the cool things Leupold does now is offer “customized” factory optics. You can order your scope with it set up just for you, with custom knobs, reticles and other features.

With a traditional optic, you’ll need rings to attach it to the upper receiver. They need to be the proper height to ensure the scope and receiver clearance is correct, but not too high. Having the right mount is also important in order to get the correct eye relief.

Ultimately, what you’re wanting is to come up on target, hitting your cheekweld on the stock and have perfect sight alignment. Properly set up, you shouldn’t have to move your head and eyes for a clear sight picture.

Low-Light Options
In the past, night vision optics were expensive. Today you have affordable options. Traditional night vision scopes magnify existing ambient light, allowing you to see in the dark. You can get dedicated night vision scopes or units that mount in behind your red-dot optic. Prices start around $400 and go up. The more affordable ones are larger and often use older technology. More money buys a smaller package and better technology.

Night vision scopes work well; they allow you to see what’s in the environment. But, everything appears in differing ranges or shades of the same color, making it difficult to locate or identify something not moving. The hot ticket, which costs a little more, is a thermal scope. Thermals pick up on heat, and the hotter something is, the brighter it appears. This makes it easy to pickup targets, especially if they’re hotter than the surrounding environment.

A quick search on the internet shows prices starting about $1,500 and going up from there. Once you determine what you need, it’s likely you’ll be spending a few thousand for a high-quality thermal scope. But, if you’re working in the dark, this is your best option to be able to “see.”

Just like traditional optics, night vision scopes are available with different reticles, allowing you to choose what works best for you and the application. Some allow you to flip between reticles, using a knob or button to cycle through different choices. And, just like traditional scopes, units with graduated reticles are available, which means once you’ve determined the distance, it’s easy to use that hash mark to compensate for trajectory.

A lot of the night vision and thermal riflescopes can be used for double duty. Yes, obviously you mount them on the AR, but they can also be used as a monocular or spotting scope. Most of these units come with quick-release mounts, and as long as it’s a high-quality product, you’ll be able to take it off and put it back on the AR without losing your zero.

Back-Up Sights
So, you’ve researched, studied and found the right AR optics for you. The scope is mounted, zeroed and ready to go. But there’s still one more thing to think about: back-up sights. If your optic stops working, regardless of why, you’ll need back-up sights to fall back on. (This might not be a requirement for target shooting. For hunting, competing or defensive/combative use, they are mandatory.)

On my AR carbines with red-dot sights, I use two types of back-up sights. The rear sight is attached to the rear receiver, behind the red-dot. I use either Daniel Defense’s A1.5 sight, which is a fixed sight, or Magpul’s MBUS sights, which can be folded down and flipped up when needed.

I prefer to keep them up all the time so they are ready for use. If you keep them down, practice flipping them up, especially from different positions such as sitting, kneeling and prone. Up front, I use a standard AR front sight base attached to the barrel or the Magpul front sight attached to a rail.

Some AR optics feature back-up sights built into the top of the scope body. They have a very short sight radius — the distance between the front and rear sight — so you won’t get surgical accuracy out of them, but they will allow you to get combat effective hits. Other optics are designed so you can attach a small red-dot on top of them. For example, there are mounts that allow you to attach sights like Trijicon’s RMR (Ruggedized Miniature Reflex) red-dot sight on top of your primary optic.

With a traditional magnified optic, you will require offset back-up sights. These sights, for example Magpul’s MBUS Pro Offset sights, come with a mount that doglegs off your rails, positioning the sights at a 45-degree angle to the primary optic. For a right-handed shooter, the back-up sights would be on the right side of the AR. If your primary sighting system stops working, you flip up the back-up sights, roll or cant the top of the AR inboard, and continue getting hits.

Final Thoughts
Selecting AR optics is all about application. What are you going to use it for? For target shooting at long distances, you’ll need one type of scope. For self-defense or law enforcement/patrol work, you’re looking at a different set of needs. There’s no one perfect option to do everything you want or need, but there are some excellent choices that fit the middle pretty well.

Once you’ve decided on what style “glass” you need, it’s time to research and study in order to determine exactly which specific model will suit your needs. The right AR optics will likely be a healthy investment, so take time to make sure you get things right.

Be sure to buy quality components for mounting optics. It’s a real shame to see a great rifle and good optics fail because the mounts didn’t hold up or provide the same zero after taking the scope off and installing it again.

Think real hard about what you plan to do with your AR. Research and study to determine the optics you need. Buy high-quality parts and any accessories that might be required. Get a good zero, and then shoot under all different conditions to determine what you and the scope can do. Remember: high-quality equipment is good, but it’s no substitute for the fundamentals of marksmanship. Finally, practice a lot, until you can acquire the target quickly and make good hits efficiently and with regularity.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the August 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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