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Tiger McKee

Five Types Of AR Malfunctions And How To Address Them

On the top is a Type II malfunction—failure to eject an empty piece of brass. Below is the Type III, or double feed. Using high-quality parts minimizes the likelihood of these problems. But, even then, “Murphy’s Law” kicks in. Be ready to clear a stoppage.
On the top is a Type II malfunction—failure to eject an empty piece of brass. Below is the Type III, or double feed. Using high-quality parts minimizes the likelihood of these problems. But, even then, “Murphy’s Law” kicks in. Be ready to clear a stoppage.

Whether it's a failure to feed or failure to eject, AR-15 malfunctions are part of life. Here's how to address them and keep you carbine running.

What Are The Five Types Of AR-15 Malfunctions:

  • Type I: Failure to feed
  • Type II: Failure to eject
  • Type III: Double feed
  • Type IV: Failure to extract
  • Type V: Bolt Override

The AR platform is ideal for almost any application. No matter how your AR is configured—or your target—one thing common to every application: the skills used to manipulate the AR. And, the most important of the manipulations is the ability to clear a AR-15 malfunctions or stoppages and get the gun running again.

Administrative Actions

There are two categories of manipulations. “Administrative” actions are used to load and unload. During these actions, you have all the time you need; there’s no reason to rush. “Functional” manipulations—empty reloads and clearing stoppages—keep the AR running. In addition, you usually need to get it up and gunning as efficiently as possible.

Empty reloads are simple. After firing for a while, you know the mag is about to run dry. When the bolt locks to the rear, it’s not a surprise. Old mag out, new mag in, and use the bolt catch as a release to chamber a round. Carry on.

The Type V stoppage is a bolt override. A round or piece of brass gets on top of the bolt and is wedged into the channel where the charging handle rides. You don’t see these stoppages very often. It looks complicated, but it’s actually fairly easy to clear.
The Type V stoppage is a bolt override. A round or piece of brass gets on top of the bolt and is wedged into the channel where the charging handle rides. You don’t see these stoppages very often. It looks complicated, but it’s actually fairly easy to clear.

AR-15 malfunctions are different, because a stoppage is always unexpected. During a fight (a self-defense confrontation, law enforcement or combative operation), shooters are stressed, and they make mistakes. The probability of having a stoppage in a fight is much higher than it is on the range. And when your AR stops working, you need to fix it.

Common AR-15 Malfunctions

There are three common stoppages with the AR, as well as two others that appear occasionally. The techniques to clear these are based on the skills used to load and unload.


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However, sometimes unloading requires a couple of extra steps, depending on what type of stoppage you have. If you know how to “speak” AR, it will tell you what’s required to get it running again.

Start working an AR hard, and things just happen. Using quality ammunition goes a long way toward avoiding these problems. The best way to prepare for these events is dry practice with dummy ammo.
Start working an AR hard, and things just happen. Using quality ammunition goes a long way toward avoiding these problems. The best way to prepare for these events is dry practice with dummy ammo.

The Type I stoppage is caused by no round of ammo in the chamber; a bad round of ammo, such as a faulty primer; or the bolt is out of battery. No matter the reason, when you press the trigger, the AR doesn’t fire.

Your immediate action is to “load.” Come off the trigger, tap and tug on the mag to ensure it’s locked in, and cycle the charging handle to load the chamber.

A Type II stoppage is a failure to eject an empty piece of brass (also called a “stove pipe” or “smokestack”). You press, but no bang! Your immediate action is to load. It’s a different type of AR-15 malfunction, but your initial response is the same: Off the trigger, tap and tug on the mag, and cycle to chamber a round.

The Type IV AR-15 Malfunction is a case stuck in the chamber. To clear this, you have to bang the rear of the stock against something solid while pulling back on the charging handle. This generates the force needed to pull the case free—or it will rip it, which means it’s going to take time and tools to fix.
The Type IV AR-15 Malfunction is a case stuck in the chamber. To clear this, you have to bang the rear of the stock against something solid while pulling back on the charging handle. This generates the force needed to pull the case free—or it will rip it, which means it’s going to take time and tools to fix.

Type III is the “double feed.” Two things, either brass and/or live rounds, are trying to occupy one space—the chamber. You press, and when the AR fails to fire, roll into the loading sequence. You cycle the charging handle, but the way it feels indicates that this isn’t ejecting the trash or loading the chamber. It’s time to unload.

Unloading

Unloading begins by removing the mag. The bolt is trying to feed a round out of the mag, so you’ll have to pull or strip the mag out of the receiver. Cycle the charging handle a minimum of three times; it’s usually going to take this to get rid of the stoppage. Once the charging handle feels right and the bolt is going into battery, it’s time to load.

Sometimes, Type III obstructions are wedged together tightly. You cycle three times, maybe four, with no joy. The handle is telling you to manually lock the bolt to the rear. Once it’s locked back, taking buffer spring pressure off the obstructions, put your fingers up the magwell and push. Shake to get the trash out. Manually cycle the bolt once more to ensure the chamber is clear; then load.

Types I through III stoppages are common. Types IV and V AR-15 malfunctions don’t happen often, but you still need to know how to fix them.

More AR-15 Malfunction Scenarios

Type IV is a case stuck in the chamber. You’re pulling the charging handle, but there’s no rearward movement—the case is stuck in the chamber, and the bolt’s extractor is hooked on the case. The AR is telling you to unload.

Should your AR stop working in a defensive situation and you’re within handgun distance, the most efficient way to get hits on the threat will be to transition to a pistol. However, at some point, you’re going to want to get the AR running again.
Should your AR stop working in a defensive situation and you’re within handgun distance, the most efficient way to get hits on the threat will be to transition to a pistol. However, at some point, you’re going to want to get the AR running again.

Remove the magazine. Hook two fingers on the charging handle, supporting the AR with the other hand. To generate the force needed to pull the case from the chamber, bang the rear of the stock against something solid while pulling rearward on the charging handle. Cycle to clear the chamber, then load. This action will either clear the case, or it rips it, which unfortunately means it takes time and tools to correct. This is a good time to transition to the pistol.

A Type V stoppage is a “bolt override.” A round or piece of brass gets stuck above the bolt. The AR lets you know it’s a Type V via the charging handle. It will usually come back part of the way, but there’s no spring pressure on it. Remove the mag. Put a finger or other tool up the mag well and in front of the bolt; the other hand should be on the charging handle. Pull back on the charging handle while pressing the bolt to the rear. Once the bolt is all the way back, hold it there and work the charging handle forward. This frees the obstruction. Quickly remove the finger/multi-tool and let the bolt fly forward.

The Goal

Ultimately, manipulations should be done without needing to see your firearm. Keep your eyes on target. Again, listening to what the AR is telling you will help with this process. With plenty of practice, you get to the point at which everything is done by physical confirmation and at a subconscious level.

To avoid trouble, make sure to have good gear. Quality parts, such as a proper extractor spring (I recommend the Colt “gold” spring), good mags and ammunition, go a long way to ensure your AR is reliable. Learn how to properly load, unload and reload.

But even then, stoppages occur. Make sure when that time comes you’re ready to fix the problem, safely and efficiently … and possibly under stress.

The article originally appeared in the August 2019 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AR Basics: Mastering The Nuances of Charging Handle And Bolt Release

Charging Handle 2
On an empty reload, the bolt catch serves as a bolt release. This is the way the AR is designed to function, and the more you mess with the charging handle, especially under stress, the more chance there is you’ll mess it up.

Of all the AR’s parts, the operation of the charging handle and bolt catch (also known as the bolt release) seems to confuse shooters most.

The charging handle assembly is used to manually cycle the bolt group during loading and unloading, and while clearing malfunctions and stoppages. To perform this and other tasks efficiently — and to prevent wear and tear on your AR — it’s important to implement the proper techniques when using the handle catch/release in tandem, as well as when using them independently.

Charging Handle 3
Cycling the charging handle is a three-step process. Although it seems very straightforward, proper technique is the difference between efficient cycling and potentially damaging the charging handle — which will put your gun out of commission.

For starters, the charging handle is used when performing a chamber check. The handle and bolt catch are used together to manually lock the bolt open. However, you don’t use the handle to perform an empty reload; for that, you use the bolt catch as a release. Knowing when and how to use the charging handle and bolt catch in harmony is key to operating the AR efficiently.

Nuances of the Charging Handle


Improper technique of the charging handle creates friction and wear, and it requires more force than necessary. In fact, you can actually torque the handle out of shape. Once the handle is bent, the bolt carrier can’t reciprocate — and the AR ceases to function. Incorrect technique could also break the latch, allowing the charging handle to follow the bolt back, thereby impacting your head. Cycling the handle is all about using proper technique, not brute force.

Charging Handle 4
Left-handed shooters use their trigger finger to release the bolt. By design, the AR is ergonomic for both right- and left-handed shooters. The key is learning how to manipulate it properly and then consistently using the proper technique.

Normally, the strong hand maintains its grip on the AR, and the support hand is used to operate the charging handle, which is a three-step process: First, position the thumb of the support hand on the back of the handle in its center. Next, use the index finger to unlatch. Then, using the elbow (not the shoulder), cycle the handle aggressively, pulling it straight to the rear. The thumb should follow the center line of the stock as it moves rearward, maintaining alignment between the handle and its channel in the upper receiver.


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Once the handle has reached full extension, allow it to strip from your hand: Release it as you would a bowstring, allowing the bolt group to snap forward under full spring pressure.
The most common issue I see with the AR is students letting their support hand impede the handle and bolt group’s forward movement. This creates a stoppage, requiring additional manipulations. Pull the charging handle all the way to the rear and release it — every time.

Charging Handle 5
To confirm the condition of the chamber, you perform a chamber check. The support hand holds the AR, and the strong hand comes off the grip to pull the handle back. For most other operations, the support hand runs the charging handle.

I teach left-handed shooters to use the first two fingers of the support hand (think “snake fangs”) on the left and right side of the handle, with the thumb centered in the back. Lefties can install an ambidextrous charging handle with a release on each side. Just remember that you might not always be firing your AR, so you must know how to work with a military-type handle.

Other Charging Handle and Bolt Catch Duties


As mentioned earlier, the charging handle is used to check the condition of the chamber. It sounds simple, right? Maybe, but “simple” and “smooth” are not the same thing.

Charging Handle 1
With a magnified optic, you might need a wider charging handle, which allows you to use the proper techniques during manipulations. Just remember to get a high-quality handle; if it breaks or bends, your AR is out of operation.

After cycling the handle with the support hand, it’s repositioned on the handguard. The strong hand comes off the grip to the charging handle. Right-handed shooters use their “snake fangs” to grasp the handle; left-handers use the right-hand technique described above. The strong hand pulls the handle slightly to the rear, allowing you to confirm there’s a round chambered or that the chamber is clear.

The charging handle is also used to manually lock the bolt to the rear. Here, again, the strong hand is used to pull back on the charging handle, while the support hand is positioned at the magwell of the lower receiver. Right-handers use their left thumb to engage the catch; lefties use the index finger of the right hand.

Charging Handle 6
Regardless of what handle type you choose, proper lubrication is mandatory. A combination of grease and oil offsets the other’s deficiency.

In addition, the charging handle is used to manually cycle the bolt group. To perform an empty reload when the bolt is locked to the rear, it’s best to use the bolt catch as a bolt release. Hitting the “bolt release” is the most efficient and ergonomic way to chamber a round during an empty reload.

A right-handed shooter releases the bolt by pressing with the thumb of the left hand. The new mag is inserted and locked in with the left hand, so the thumb is already there and ready to release the bolt. Left-handed shooters should use the right hand to feed a fresh mag and their trigger finger to release the bolt. Using the bolt catch as a release chambers a fresh round, and the bolt has the energy necessary to lock in battery. You’re now ready to fire.

Final Thoughts


The charging handle and bolt catch are critical components of the AR. They’re simple to use — as long as you use the correct technique.

Knowing when to use the charging handle and bolt catch separately or in unison is mandatory to operating the AR efficiently. And, as it is with any piece of precision machinery, it’s up to you to learn it well.

The article originally appeared in the May 2019 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

What Factors Do You Need To Consider In An AR-15 Trigger Upgrade?

AR15-Triggers-Lead

There is a slew of aftermarket AR-15 trigger upgrades out there, each offering a little something different. How do you choose?

What Factors Do You Need To Consider In An AR-15 Trigger Upgrade:

The AR’s modular design makes it easy to swap out parts, even for components like the entire trigger group. However, this is a double-edged sword: Yes, anyone with some mechanical sense (and sometimes a few specialty tools) can configure the AR to their liking, but parts such as the trigger group should be chosen carefully.

A good trigger must have three distinct attributes: smooth to cycle, crisp at the break and light throughout. Smooth and crisp are constants; they’re features desired in every trigger of any gun. Lightness or pull weight, meaning the amount of pressure required for the trigger to break, is more subjective. In fact, the proper trigger weight depends on your application. Trigger reset is another factor to consider, but it’s not quite worthy of a Top 3 designation.

Selecting the proper trigger is a critical part of making an AR your AR. So, let’s break this down a bit more.

Oh, So Smooth

A smooth trigger is a great advantage in the quest for accuracy. A crunchy, gritty trigger makes it difficult to get good hits, and it’s more important to consistent accuracy than many people realize. As you apply pressure to a poor-quality trigger, the trigger moves with a jerky motion, and then it stalls. You apply more pressure and the trigger jumps past that spot, causing you to jerk as it moves rearward. This action is repeated until — eventually — the trigger breaks, firing the shot. Every jerk of the trigger finger moves the sights off target due to pressure.

AR-15 Trigger 2
No matter what anyone says, don’t try to polish or hone any of the trigger components. This is a sure way to create a malfunctioning AR, which can misfire or go full-auto. Do the research, spend the money and get the right trigger for your application.

A smooth trigger allows you to press without stops and starts. It’s one uninterrupted pressure motion from start to finish, ensuring the shot is fired with minimal disruption of the sight picture each and every time. A good rifleman can shoot accurately with a heavy trigger as long as it’s smooth.

Extra Crispy

Being “crisp” is another desirable trigger trait. Ideally, pressure is applied to the trigger in a smooth and steady action as discussed above. Without any indication that it’s about to release the hammer, the trigger breaks, thus firing the shot. In a good trigger, there’s no mechanical pause or hesitation between the press and the actual release.

There are two techniques used to fire the shot. One school of thought — which is what I teach — is steady application of pressure to the trigger until the AR decides to fire. This is called a surprise break. Other shooters claim they can tell where the break is, so they press until only a couple of ounces are left, then pressing that off when the sights are perfect, essentially “deciding” when to fire the shot. This can be accomplished consistently, but only by expert marksmen. For the rest of us, especially beginners, making the weapon fire usually ends up with the shooter anticipating the recoil and jerking the sights off target at the last moment.

AR-15 Trigger 3
Trigger design will be based on application. On the left is ALG’s ACT (Advanced Combat Trigger), which is the standard military design but coated with nickel boron for a smooth, crisp release. On the right is a two-stage trigger by Geissele, the G2S, which has a 2.5-pound first stage with a 2-pound release.

No matter what technique is used, a crisp trigger will make firing the shot much easier. This applies to a single-stage military-type trigger, which fires with one smooth press. This also applies to the two-stage trigger, where the first half or so of the trigger cycle requires one pressure, then it lightens up a good bit for the final movement, requiring very little pressure to fire the shot. Regardless of the type of trigger you’re using, it must be crisp.

Wearing The Weight

Pull weight is the most subjective feature among trigger considerations, and it’s almost exclusively dictated by application. An extremely light trigger is used for surgical-marksmanship-type target shooting, which is generally done from a bench. Competition or “match” triggers are just for those purposes. For law enforcement or self-defense use, you need a “combat” trigger.

Target triggers are very light, and they’re used for shooting a very tight group under controlled conditions. For this type shooting, a very light trigger pull is acceptable and recommended. Triggers will often break with a just a couple of pounds of pressure — sometimes only ounces. A target trigger is not to be used for any other application: Under any other type conditions, they’re too light to be safe.


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Hunting and competition matches are “field” applications. You can use a match or competition trigger, which is what I call a medium-weight trigger. Usually, match/competition triggers will release at about 3½ to 4 pounds; however, hunting and competitions are still somewhat controlled conditions. It’s nothing like the disorder experienced during a fight. Match/competition triggers are still too light for combative settings. (Light triggers are often not heavy enough to ignite the primer in mil-spec type ammo.)

During a violent confrontation, you’ll be moving, using different firing positions and firing multiple shots. You’re under physical and mental stress because lives are on the line. During such an event, you’ll likely lose dexterity and feeling in the fingers. A trigger that’s too light will cause negligent, unintentional shots to be fired. I’ve seen this happen during training and practice — it will definitely become a problem under actual combative conditions.

I recommend a trigger weight of 5½ pounds for defensive use, but it still needs to be smooth and crisp. I also prefer this pull weight because it’s consistent with the pistols I carry. Fighting is chaotic: The more factors I can control, such as having a uniform trigger weight regardless of the weapon, the less variables I have to think about.

Trigger Reset Considerations

It’s also important to consider trigger reset. After the shot is fired, you relax your finger, releasing the trigger, but only to the point that the disconnector releases the hammer and it’s captured by the trigger — this is trigger reset. Now you’re ready to press through another shot.
Resetting the trigger is the key to firing multiple shots accurately and efficiently. Allowing the finger to lose contact with the trigger wastes time, plus it increases the chance you’ll jerk or slap the trigger on the next shot.

In most triggers, the lighter the trigger’s pull weight, the lighter or softer the reset feels. Reset on a light trigger is difficult to distinguish. If you’re not careful when firing multiple shots with a light reset, it’s easy to fire another round while trying to feel the trigger reset.

A positive trigger reset that’s easy to feel is mandatory for combative/defensive purposes. An advantage of the 5½-pound trigger is that the spring pressure is enough so that all you have to do is relax your finger and the trigger will reset itself.

Choosing Your Trigger

When choosing a trigger for your AR, make sure to carefully consider your intended application. For match/comp triggers, ask other shooters in that discipline what they use. For defensive work, you need a combat type trigger. No matter what the application, do not modify, hone or polish the trigger components. They are hardened, but only to a very shallow depth. Removing material is a sure path to a malfunction or negligent discharge with the fire-control group.

AR-15 Trigger 1
Remember, gear or equipment cannot make up for a lack of skill. Regardless of what you’re shooting with your AR or the type trigger being used, accuracy always relies on applying the fundamentals of marksmanship.

Once you decide what duties you need your trigger to perform, you can narrow it down to a specific type. There are adjustable triggers and drop-in triggers that are housed in pre-assembled, ready-to-install groups. There’s a lot of variety out there, and something will fit your needs perfectly. Do your research and upgrade that trigger now.

Just keep in mind that the proper trigger is a great accessory, but it won’t make up for a lack of skill. As always, practice the fundamentals: aim, hold, press and follow-through.

The article originally appeared in the April 2019 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AR-15 Basics: Where To Place Your Support Hand

AR Support Hand 3
The traditional support-hand technique — positioning the support hand about mid-way between receiver and muzzle — works with the widest variety of rifles and carbines. Consistency, meaning one technique that will work with any weapon, is always best.

A hot-button topic among AR-15 aficionados, support hand placement can get tounges clucking. But is there really a prime piece of real estate to put your paw?

What Are The Support Hand Placements Covered:

  • Traditional — support arm underneath the handguard, with the support hand relaxed.
  • Magwell — support hand on the front of magwell of the lower receiver.
  • High-Bore Axis — support arm out as far forward on the handguard as possible, gripping the handguard between the thumb and fingers.

One of the most heated debates among hardcore AR users is where to position the support arm and hand when firing. The “traditional” shooters position the support arm underneath the handguard, with the support hand relaxed, located somewhere around the middle of the handguard. The “magwell-grip” supporters favor clamping the support hand on the front of magwell of the lower receiver. The “high-bore axis” group extends the support arm out as far forward on the handguard as possible, gripping the handguard between the thumb and fingers.

And there you have your argument: Which is best?

The ‘Traditional’ Approach

The purpose of shooting — regardless of application — is hitting the target. To hit you need stability, and the amount of stability depends on the accuracy necessary, which is dictated by distance and/or size of the target. To create stability, you lower the body’s center of gravity and/or establish more contact points between the body and a more stable, solid object. Prone is obviously the most stable position.

AR Support Hand 2
The magwell technique lets you use a fighting stance, but it has some balance problems and will not work unless you actually have a magwell to grip. Most users of this technique will apply pressure to the rear with the support hand, but with the hand this far back, any movement in the hand will be magnified at the muzzle.

Regardless of the firing position or placement of the support hand and support arm, the stock must be located in the pocket of the shoulder. To locate the shoulder’s pocket, lift up your primary arm. Place the support hand on the collar bone, inboard and close to the neck. Slide the hand outboard until feeling the collar bone dip below the muscle of the shoulder. This concave area is the actual pocket.

In prone, the body should be relaxed, relying on bones to support the weapon and hold it on target as opposed to muscle tension. Bones are always more consistent than muscles, especially over long periods of time.

The same principles used in prone apply to sitting, kneeling (preferably while bracing the support elbow on the support knee for additional steadiness), standing and offhand shooting. To be clear, “standing” is a deliberate, slow-fire position used for pure marksmanship. (Think Olympic shooters in the standing position, their body perpendicular to the target and the support elbow resting against the rib cage.)

AR Support Hand 5
The traditional technique also works well when using a hand-held light with the AR. The primary hand applies pressure to the rear to keep the stock in the pocket of the shoulder, and the support hand creates a rest for the handguard.

Offhand — which is what most people mean when they say “standing” — is a field position, quick to assume and make a hit. When shooting offhand, the support elbow isn’t resting against the body as it is in standing, but it’s still positioned underneath the gun. The support hand is relaxed and supporting the weight. The support hand cradles the weapon’s handguard without actually gripping it, and the primary hand applies pressure to the rear to keep the stock seated in the shoulder pocket. Offhand also allows you to use a more aggressive “fighting” stance, as opposed to a “shooting” stance with the feet parallel.

The ‘Magwell Grip’ Option

With the magwell grip, the support hand clamps onto the lower receiver at the magwell. Yes, the support hand is underneath the weapon and very near to the balance point. However, the primary hand is on the grip supplying some support, which moves the balance point of the weapon forward toward the middle of the handguard. Gripping the magwell positions the support hand too far back to provide the ideal balance, but the magwell grip seems to work well for small-stature shooters and with the stock shortened.


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With the support hand on the magwell, it’s lower than the handguard and the barrel — which is the heaviest part of the AR. It’s similar to holding a lollipop by the stick, except in this case is the lollipop is heavy. The upper receiver and barrel will want to tilt left or right, especially when the body is in motion. Any lateral movement in the support hand causes the muzzle pivot left or right in the shoulder.

AR Support Hand 4
The standing position, which is different than the offhand position, is a deliberate position used for squeezing out maximum accuracy. The support hand is fully underneath the weapon and the elbow rests against the upper torso.

And then there’s vertical movement up and down to consider. Now you’ve got movement in the X, Y and Z axis, and it’s magnified because the support hand is as far back on the rifle as possible and pulling rearward. It works for some shooters, but there’s a lot to master and overcome.

Taming The ‘High-Bore Axis’ Technique

In the high-bore axis technique, where the support hand extended as far forward as possible. One advantage of the high-bore axis hold is that it’s fast for transitioning between targets; you “drive” the muzzle from one target to another quickly. Plus, in order to use the high-bore axis technique, the feet of most shooters must be too parallel to provide a stable fighting stance.

A big factor to consider is consistency with other weapons platforms. The majority of aftermarket ARs sold today come with a full-length handguard, which allows you to position the support hand anywhere between the magwell and the end of the handguard.

AR Support Hand 1
In some positions, or for small-stature shooters, the magwell technique might work best. However, just be aware of the pros and cons of each technique so you can choose what will work best for you.

However, most weapons are not going to allow you to do this. The magwell technique doesn’t work if you don’t have a magwell to grip. The high-bore axis method won’t work with carbine-length gas system, or with a sub-gun such as the MP5. Pump-action shotguns require the support arm underneath the weapon to ensure you don’t bind up the action when cycling to eject and load. The stock of most hunting rifles doesn’t extend out to the muzzle.

I’m a big fan of consistency. I pretty much carry and use the same weapons all the time, but when I can’t be consistent with that, consistency in my firing platform becomes even more important. Remember, there’s no golden rule stating you’ll always be firing your AR.

Final Thoughts

So, what technique works best? It depends on your application of the AR. A technique that works for military applications might fit well with competition, but it might not with defensive or law enforcement use. Ultimately, using an AR properly — safely and efficiently — is an art, and everyone’s art is going to be different.

The equipment we use is pretty standard, but the way we use them is distinctly unique. The only way to determine what works for you is to experiment under realistic conditions. Then you can make an educated decision.

The article originally appeared in the March 2019 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AR-15 Training: Conquering The Enemy Within

To learn your limits you have to stretch things out. For example, when it comes to long-distance shooting you won’t know what you can do unless you reach your limit. This lets you know what you can do, which creates confidence, and with time your skills improve too.
To learn your limits you have to stretch things out. For example, when it comes to long-distance shooting you won’t know what you can do unless you reach your limit. This lets you know what you can do, which creates confidence, and with time your skills improve too.

Be it for self-defense, competition or plain old marksmanship, the greatest hurdle to becoming more proficient with your AR-15 is your ego.

How To Put Your Ego Aside And Become A Better Shooter:

  • Be humble and surround yourself with those who know more about the platform than you.
  • Don't compete with others, focus on personal improvement.
  • Learn on a basic carbine and equipment before investing in more complicated systems.
  • Force yourself to improve on your weakest points.

The ego — your self-identity — can be good, bad … and sometimes just plain dangerous. The ego doesn’t like being embarrassed, looking bad or making mistakes. It likes comfort, and it will shy away from “new” or “different,” preventing you from training and practicing with your AR. Your self-image is the difference between putting meat on the table and winning the match — or going home empty-handed.

More importantly, the ego will hinder your evaluation of possible danger; other people’s egos make them dangerous. Your self-image will be the deciding factor in a violent confrontation. In fact, it will likely be the deciding factor in whether you’re involved in a fight or not. Regardless of the AR activity, your best performance is achieved with a humble, well-balanced self-image.

The Battle Within

The vast majority of skills necessary to use a firearm safely and efficiently, especially the AR, are not instinctual. The only way to become proficient is to get instruction from someone who knows more than you do. However, the ego is extremely fragile, and it doesn’t like to admit ignorance. It’s difficult for people to admit they need help.

Admitting you don’t know it all is the first step to becoming better. Then it’s about finding someone who knows more and getting instruction. After training comes practice, and plenty of it, in order to learn how to apply your skills on demand, and under any conditions.
Admitting you don’t know it all is the first step to becoming better. Then it’s about finding someone who knows more and getting instruction. After training comes practice, and plenty of it, in order to learn how to apply your skills on demand, and under any conditions.

Firearms, by design, can be dangerous. The majority of tragedies that occur with them are the result of ignorance, not understanding how to safely handle them. Training introduces you to the correct techniques needed to use the AR safely — which is critical to everyone around you — and efficiently, which determines your performance. Step No. 1 is accepting when you need assistance and when you need to get additional training.

Even after making the decision to seek instruction, the battle against the ego continues. In nearly every class I teach, this scenario comes up: I explain a technique or drill. After asking if anyone has questions, waiting a moment and not getting any response, I noticed a puzzled look on “Ted’s” face.

“Ted,” I inquire, “what is it you’re not sure of?” I have to force students to ask for clarification. We care more about appearing ignorant than we do learning. There are some things in life that you can bluff your way through, but faking it with firearms is dangerous. You attend training to learn; don’t let the ego impede your progress.

After training — an introduction to AR skills — comes practice. Repetition is necessary to learn these skills to a point that they can be applied on-demand, under any conditions. The battle continues; the ego has a big bag ‘o tricks to prevent you from practicing.

The ego will also “self-inflate.” Instead of acknowledging that you need additional practice, it says, “Oh, I’m good enough.” Or, how many times have you heard someone decline an invitation to practice by saying, “Oh, I’d just embarrass myself.” Maybe your skill level or equipment isn’t up to par, and because the ego is extremely competitive, the best way for it to win is to never play with others.

Standing Up To Your Ego
First off, there’s always going to be someone better than you. When it comes to learning, the experts agree that one of the best ways to improve is by surrounding yourself with people who know more than you. Secondly, the only person you “compete” with is yourself. As long as you’re improving with each practice session, it’s all good. Third, you’re better off learning to use the basic equipment first, plus you’ll get a chance to test other people’s gear before buying. And finally, when it comes to defensive or combative actions, not participating isn’t going to be a choice.

During practice, you guard against interference from the ego. Our identity’s tendency is to only practice the things we’re good at; the ego doesn’t like stepping outside its comfort zone. The only way to improve is by focusing on your deficiencies.


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You’re going to make mistakes, during training and during practice. Mistakes will also occur during an armed confrontation. What counts is how you react when you make a blunder.

Instead of letting the ego beat you up — “I should’ve done this,” or, “Wow, I did that wrong” — concentrate on correction, compensating as necessary to ensure it doesn’t happen again. “If you’re not making mistakes,” I tell students, “you’re not doing it right.” More mistakes during training/practice means improvement, and that equals fewer errors in the field, wherever that may be.

Confidence Through Trial

Practice also builds confidence. You determine what you can do, and what’s beyond the capabilities of you and your gear. Discovering these limits involves experimentation. The ego will prevent you from venturing into the “I’m not sure” area. If you never go too fast or shoot too far — meaning, step beyond your limits — you’ll never discover what you and your AR are capable of. Confidence is only developed through learning, practice and experimentation. Just remember the difference between having confidence as opposed to an over-inflated ego. Don’t let your ego stop you from creating the proper self-image.

Maybe your gear isn’t as “fancy” as your buddy’s. Don’t let that stop you from practicing. Plus, if you learn using basic equipment having accessories only makes things easier. Remember, it’s all about the shooter, not the kit.
Maybe your gear isn’t as “fancy” as your buddy’s. Don’t let that stop you from practicing. Plus, if you learn using basic equipment having accessories only makes things easier. Remember, it’s all about the shooter, not the kit.

Your optimal performance is dependent on a balance between three elements: the conscious mind, the subconscious mind and the self-image. In the beginning, the conscious mind — which only thinks about one thing at a time — is responsible for the majority of your actions. With practice, most of these actions are shifted to the subconscious mind — they don’t know what its capabilities are. The conscious says, “Draw,” and the subconscious takes over to perform the sequence.

During practice, the self-image improves. Your performance and self-image are always equal. “I’m gonna miss this shot,” you think. Then that’s exactly what you’ll do. With repetition, and learning to tell yourself, “I’ve done this on the range thousands of times,” – your performance improves. It becomes normal for you to make accurate hits or apply your defensive skills under any type conditions.

When Ego Is The Enemy

The ego factors heavily into self-defense applications. For example, let’s say you see a group of rowdy teenagers or a man who looks irritated. The ego is concerned with how others perceive us. “I don’t want people to see me overreacting,” you think. Instead of moving and creating distance, you ignore them. Just as you walk past, they attack, with much more violence and speed than you imagined possible.

Or, many of us have said, “I can’t believe that guy cut me off in traffic!” Now, let’s say that escalates. After a slight transgression, you verbally confront the offender, adding some creative hand signals to make your point heard. One thing leads to another, and now you’re in a physical confrontation, forced to defend against an attack.

Keeping a training diary or logbook is essential. This let’s you track your progress, and looking back on previous entries and seeing documentation on how much you’re improved will boost your confidence.
Keeping a training diary or logbook is essential. This let’s you track your progress, and looking back on previous entries and seeing documentation on how much you’re improved will boost your confidence.

The over-inflated self-image is responsible for the majority of violent actions committed by threats. Traditionally, an over-inflated identity has been considered a bad thing. In an article, “The Trouble with Self-Esteem,” Lauren Slater reports that “People with high self-esteem pose a greater threat to those around them than people with low self-esteem.” Once someone starts thinking they’re better than others, they feel free to act accordingly. There are people out there who firmly believe, “I’ll just go out and take what I want from others.” And just like that, they’re ready and willing to use violence to achieve their goals. The two cardinal defensive sins are over-estimating your abilities and underestimating the threat. Both these problems stem directly from an over-inflated ego.

Preparing for the hunt, a big match or to defend against an attacker is all about humility. It takes mental focus and discipline to fight the instinctual desire to feed, inflate and protect the ego. Never over-estimate your abilities, and know what your limits are. Don’t underestimate possible danger. Research and study to develop an understanding of violent type actors. Admit ignorance; cure it with training and practice. This creates a healthy self-image, the proper kind of ego, which is the key to success with your AR.

Making AR-15 Fundamentals Second Nature

Application of AR-15 fundamentals must occur subconsciously, freeing up the mind to make bigger decisions.

What Are The AR-15 Fundamentals You Need To Focus On:

  • Safety
  • Accuracy
  • Manipulation
  • Working The Charging Handle
  • Operating The Bolt Catch
  • Learning Your New Equipment

Safety

Ask someone what the “fundamentals” of firearms are and you’ll get a variety of answers, and usually multiple responses from one person. There’s obviously safety to consider. Your primary focus whenever handling firearms, regardless of the reason, is safety. This, as you know, is the foundation of all other fundamentals.

“Marksmanship excellence is achieved through thousands of rounds on the range, backed up with exponentially more dry practice.”
“Marksmanship excellence is achieved through thousands of rounds on the range, backed up with exponentially more dry practice.”

Accuracy

Then there’s the fundamentals of marksmanship, though this is a skill set no one ever masters. I can tell you that — backed by more than 25 years of teaching and decades of personal experience — the one problem we all have, at least occasionally, is shooting too fast.

“But,” you say, “In the match/field/fight I need to shoot fast.” The purpose of shooting is to hit the target; accuracy is first and foremost. The speed you shoot is dictated by distance and size of the target. Bad shots or misses most often indicate that you fired too fast. The fundamentals (aim, hold, press and follow-through) apply for each and every shot, thus ensuring hits.

Whenever possible, you should practice in adverse weather conditions. Manipulations are a fundamental skill, but things might change when you’re wearing gloves or layers of bulky gear.
Whenever possible, you should practice in adverse weather conditions. Manipulations are a fundamental skill, but things might change when you’re wearing gloves or layers of bulky gear.

Marksmanship excellence is achieved through thousands of rounds on the range, backed up with exponentially more dry practice. You fire one accurate shot, taking all the time needed to ensure each shot is done “right.” After one hit, you stop, reset everything physically and mentally, and start over. One shot at a time — a slow, methodical process.


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Once you can hit any target — within reason, of course — you begin to think about making two hits. Regardless of the number of shots, it’s about repeatedly applying the four fundamentals. The fundamentals, after all, ensure good hits, almost effortlessly, during the match/hunt/fight.

Manipulation

The ability to properly manipulate the AR is another fundamental skill — and it takes more resolution than any skill. The only way to learn this is through repetition, but it’s necessary because the AR is more complicated than some firearms, especially pistols. ARs have many advantages over a handgun: accuracy, magazine capacity, extended range and terminal ballistics — and limited penetration. To become proficient in manipulating the AR (which means safely and efficiently) requires resolution, because the definition of “repetition” is boring.

Accuracy depends on stability. You create stability by bracing against solid objects and by lowering your center of gravity. Learning the fundamentals on traditional firing positions will help you create a more stable modified position.
Accuracy depends on stability. You create stability by bracing against solid objects and by lowering your center of gravity. Learning the fundamentals on traditional firing positions will help you create a more stable modified position.

Learning how to load, unload or confirm the status of the AR — what I call administrative manipulations — and clear stoppages or malfunctions — functional manipulations — starts with learning how to properly cycle the charging handle.

Working The Charging Handle

Working the charging handle is a fundamental all by itself. It’s a three-step sequence, and it starts by positioning the thumb on the back of the handle in the center. Properly positioning the thumb here provides a good purchase, and it helps ensure you don’t twist or torque the handle as it’s racked rearward. Next, use your first finger to unlatch the handle. Failure to do so will either cause your hand to jerk off the handle without cycling it, or I’ve seen really strong guys rip the latch off the handle.

Some applications require a lot of kit, which increases the work on fundamentals. You spend an enormous amount of time to become fluid and efficient with your gear. At the same time, don’t carry gear you really don’t need. As always, think about your application.
Some applications require a lot of kit, which increases the work on fundamentals. You spend an enormous amount of time to become fluid and efficient with your gear. At the same time, don’t carry gear you really don’t need. As always, think about your application.

Pull the handle straight back, with your thumb following the centerline of the stock rearward. The physical action to cycle should occur in your elbow — not the shoulder — making sure you don’t twist the handle. “Twisting” creates friction, wear or bending the handle out of shape, locking up your AR’s action. Finally, once the handle reaches full extension to the rear, you release it, making sure your hand doesn’t impede the bolt’s forward motion.

Operating The Bolt Catch

Reloading is another functional manipulation. During reloads, when the bolt is locked to the rear, use the bolt catch as a release to chamber a round instead of manually cycling the charging handle. This is how the AR is designed to function.

Using the bolt catch to chamber a round is much more ergonomic than cycling the handle, and the more you mess with that handle the more likely is it that you’re going to mess it up, like letting your hand ride the handle forward, retarding the action and creating a stoppage. The fundamentals of manipulating the AR are about details, and the small ones make a big difference.

Learning Your New Equipment

Maybe your AR goal for 2019 is a new piece of equipment. You’ve had your eye on a new optic, a different caliber, or a brand new rifle, carbine or pistol. Now it’s time to buy, and again, the fundamentals are important.

The first thing you need to do with a new piece of gear is read the instruction manual. Learning how it operates saves time, money and mental frustration. Keep in mind that a piece of equipment cannot overcome bad fundamentals.
The first thing you need to do with a new piece of gear is read the instruction manual. Learning how it operates saves time, money and mental frustration. Keep in mind that a piece of equipment cannot overcome bad fundamentals.

The first thing to do with new gear is read the instructions. I know — I can hear you groaning — but this is fundamentally important. Familiarization is fundamental; not knowing how something works severely limits your ability to use it well. I’ve seen people send a lot of expensive match-grade ammo downrange before discovering something was off. If for no other reason, read the manual to get the most out of your new purchase. And remember: If your marksmanship fundamentals aren’t up to speed, you won’t be pleased with your skills or your new investment.

Parting Shot

Working with the AR — for plinking, protection, shooting for competition or putting game on the table — is always about the fundamentals. In a defensive encounter, fundamentals are literally life and death. The fundamentals like safety, manipulations, accuracy — which includes different firing positions, shooting from cover and engaging a moving target — and the ability to use your gear efficiently must be over-learned.

Application of these skills must occur at a subconscious level. This frees up the conscious mind, which can only think about one thing at a time, to focus on the bigger decisions. Ultimately, what you’re striving for is efficiency; this will make you quick and provide the results you need.

Make a resolution now to get these fundamentals squared away. It’ll be too late to learn when you really need them.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the January 2019 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

How To Prioritize Spending On Your AR-15

Building, upgrading and becoming proficient with your AR-15 can quickly add up to big bucks. So how should you spend your money to get the most out of your carbine?

What Are The AR-15 Essential You Should Prioritize Your Money For:

  • Cleaning and maintance gear
  • Spare and replacement parts: pins, springs, etc.
  • Magazines and ammo
  • Proper training and educational material

Each year brings about an assortment of new products and supplemental gear that’s released for the AR platform — even different configurations of rifles, carbines and “new” calibers.

The “essentials” category includes everything needed to keep your AR running. Small parts, such as pins, springs, detents and such are affordable and small — so you can carry them with you in the field. Keep some funds ready for when you find a good buy on ammo and magazines, or anything else necessary to ensure you don’t get caught out of commission.
The “essentials” category includes everything needed to keep your AR running. Small parts, such as pins, springs, detents and such are affordable and small — so you can carry them with you in the field. Keep some funds ready for when you find a good buy on ammo and magazines, or anything else necessary to ensure you don’t get caught out of commission.

Everyone likes procuring new gear. Sometimes it’s something we really need — it fits a specific application — or it’s a new piece of gear we simply want. And then there are training classes we want to schedule and attend.

Few of us have the ability to buy everything we need or desire, which means we have to choose. So, when it comes to budgeting your “AR dollars,” there are main “clusters” I like to organize all this into: essentials, entertainment and education.

AR-15 Essentials

The “essentials” include everything necessary to clean, maintain and operate the AR. Every AR owner should know how to properly clean their rifle and maintain it, swapping out small parts as needed. There are a few special tools you’ll need to correctly clean the AR, such as a chamber brush. This brush cleans the lugs in the barrel extension, where lugs of the bolt mate up — and at the same time it’s cleaning the chamber.

Also, get a good cleaning rod, which means a one-piece rod that’s coated. I use Dewey. And get a bore guide: It protects the chamber and keeps the cleaning rod traveling straight down the barrel, and that’s highly recommended. The proper cleaning gear isn’t cheap, but it protects your weapon for a lifetime of use. Make sure to budget for the good stuff.

Books can fall into the “education” or “entertainment” category. They don’t have to be AR-specific for you to learn something, and there’s great works both past and contemporary that a rifleman or woman should read.
Books can fall into the “education” or “entertainment” category. They don’t have to be AR-specific for you to learn something, and there’s great works both past and contemporary that a rifleman or woman should read.

The AR is one of the great firearms ever designed. You’ve heard me say it before, and you’ll hear me say it again. Its simplicity and modular design make is easy to maintain, and most of the parts you need to keep on-hand are small and affordable. Get a breakdown on the parts, and then get replacements and extras. This includes pins, springs and detents for the trigger and bolt groups. Having spare bolt is a good idea.

Items such as magazines and ammo also fall into this category. The availability and price of ARs and related gear can be very fluid … and the same is true of ammo. I’ve seen this scenario olay out several times during the past 40 years: A tragedy occurs. Politicians and the media start talking “gun control. And then anything related to the AR either sells out or rises greatly in price — regardless of the caliber. Almost overnight.


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Right now, items such as parts, magazines and ammo are plentiful and affordable. Put some money aside to grab necessities each month. One thing is for sure: These items are always a good investment.

Speaking of investments, I consider upgrading and acquiring new gear as an investment: I’m spending money in hopes of making things better. Some upgrades are not that stiff — swapping out grips or changing slings. Clamping an optic on top your AR, on the other hand, is going to be more financially significant. There are budget options out there, but if the reason for shooting is important — lives might depend on your ability to make an accurate shot every time — you can’t skimp on that scope or red-dot sight. Study and research well, and make sure you get exactly what you need. Having to buy a piece of gear twice is a lot more expensive.

Entertainment

Sometimes, there’s just something you want — the “entertainment” category — even though there’s no justifiable need for it … it’s just a piece of gear you’ve been yearning for. Gear like this should be budgeted for over a longer period of time — it should never be a spur of the moment decision or impulse purchase. And it’s my strong opinion that you don’t pay for something unnecessary by “borrowing” from one of the other funds, no matter how cool it is.

Don’t forget to budget for training, which is educational and fun. Class cost includes ammo, travel expenses and any specific gear that might be needed for the instruction. After training comes practice, so you’ll need to allot money for additional ammo.
Don’t forget to budget for training, which is educational and fun. Class cost includes ammo, travel expenses and any specific gear that might be needed for the instruction. After training comes practice, so you’ll need to
allot money for additional ammo.

For example I’m fascinated by thermal vision gear. I’d like to have some, but the probability of me actually needing it is extremely low. So, I keep saving — the compact, good stuff is expensive. And who knows, maybe while I’m saving the technology will keep advancing and the prices might drop.

Education

One area a lot of AR owners don’t budget for is training. Owning an AR — or any firearm — requires knowing how to use it safely and efficiently. Any time you’re around firearms, safety is your No. 1 concern — we all know this but few invest in it. This is also true in the field and during defensive encounters.

Most everyone knows the at least some rendition of the four basic safety rules of firearm safety:

Rule I: All guns are treated as though loaded.
Rule II: Never point the muzzle at anything you’re not ready or willing to shoot.
Rule III: Keep your finger off the trigger until the sights are on target.
Rule IV: Make sure to identify your target and what’s surrounding and behind it.

With training, you understand why Rule II is so important with ARs. The AR has a free-floating firing pin. Every time a round is chambered, the firing pin strikes the primer, though usually not with enough force to ignite it. Even though it’s very rare, the AR can fire during loading or reloading. Keep the muzzle pointing downward in safe direction. Always.

Big purchases, such as optics, can take time to save up for. Research, and test if possible, before buying. And pay a little extra if you have to so that you get what you want, so you don’t end up having to buy again after settling for something that doesn’t really fit your needs.
Big purchases, such as optics, can take time to save up for. Research, and test if possible, before buying. And pay a little extra if you have to so that you get what you want, so you don’t end up having to buy again after settling for something that doesn’t really fit your needs.

The techniques used to manipulate the AR are not instinctual. The AR is ergonomic, and once learning the proper techniques for loading/unloading, reloading and clearing stoppages, you’ll understand this: All the controls are in just the right place … and having someone teach you how to manipulate them most efficiently is a great investment. This is especially critical for defensive use: On the range or in competition, not knowing how to reload or clear a stoppage efficiently means no trophy — in a fight, these skills could be the difference between life and death.

Plus — and this is important — training introduces you to defensive principles and techniques needed to respond to a threat. We’re not born knowing how to fight with firearms. Training, followed by plenty of practice, is required. You need to budget for training, and the ammunition required for live-fire practice after attending class.

For me, this category also includes books and other reference material. Yes, there are videos, etc out there for free, but what I call the “good” stuff, both past and present, is mostly available in book format. Plus, I like to turn down pages, highlight and make notes in the book. You can’t do this on a computer. The act of writing makes a mental connection that typing doesn’t. You learn more from an actual book, but they are expensive.

As time passes, the more I realize that it’s about software — and not hardware. I get the same amount of pleasure shooting a vintage carbine from the ‘70 as I do a contemporary version of the AR. And I could use a plain-Jane carbine to defend my life.

However, my modern sporting rifle with a red-dot sight, weapon-mounted light and ALG combat trigger does make the job easier. And, regardless of how old I get, budgeting for the essentials, entertainment and education components of AR ownership still require me to keep a budget.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the December 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Is A .22 LR AR-15 Your Best Bet To Achieve Tactical Competency?

Generations past learned to shoot behind a .22 LR bolt rifle. Today, the .22 LR AR-15 is that perfect learning tool.

How the .22 LR AR-15 is the perfect tool to learn the platform:

  • It’s reliable caliber, no matter the ammo you run.
  • Given its light recoil, it's easy to shoot.
  • It is extremely accurate.
  • Ammo is very affordable.
  • Hands down, its plain fun to shoot.

I was raised on guns. There are pictures of Dad holding a .22-caliber rifle in my shoulder so I can fire it. I can’t remember not shooting, but I do remember is that it all started with a .22 LR single-shot rifle and firing from prone. In those days, you were expected to learn how to shoot a .22 from prone — one accurate shot at a time — before ever progressing to anything else.

The .22 LR is available in a variety of types. You buy bulk ammo for plinking, and match ammo if you’re working on marksmanship. With a .22, you’ll need to experiment until finding the right ammo for your gun. 22 LR AR
The .22 LR is available in a variety of types. You buy bulk ammo for plinking, and match ammo if you’re working on marksmanship. With a .22, you’ll need to experiment until finding the right ammo for your gun.

And the same is true today. Regardless of age, learning how to shoot begins with the fundamentals. The AR is a lot like a .22 LR many of us grew up on: It’s reliable, easy to use and extremely accurate — it’s an “if I can see it, I can hit it” kind of rifle. It’s the perfect platform to use on your way to becoming a rifleman or woman. But, this journey is about a lot more than just acquiring the gear.

Learning how to use the AR, or any other firearm, starts with the fundamentals of marksmanship: Aim, hold, press and follow-through. The cool thing about the AR is that you can still do this with the .22 caliber, buying a dedicated .22 LR AR — my favorite is the Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22 — or using a conversion kit with a .223 Rem./5.56 NOTA AR. And prone is still the best position to start with.

What You Should Work On With Your .22 LR AR-15

Finding NPOA

You start by learning about natural point of aim, or NPOA. This is a firing position that relies on bone support as opposed to muscle tension. You get into position with the sights on target. Shut your eyes, and inhale and exhale several times. Now, open your eye and note where the sights are. While breathing, your body settles into its “natural” position — you’re not using muscles to hold the sights on target. If the sights shifted left or right of the target, then reposition your entire body instead of muscling the sights back on target.


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Using your bone structure to keep the rifle on target is always more consistent than relying on muscle tension, and shooting accurately is always about consistency. You do the same thing — the exact same way over and over until achieving the desired results — which is the ability to place your shots exactly where you want them.

Before ever firing a shot you check, establish and confirm your NPOA. This is true for every firing position — even standing or offhand. Eventually you get to the point where you can line up the target, assume your firing position and you’ll have a solid NPOA. This is the true “aiming” part of marksmanship.

In the beginning, it’s best to start with the basics, both for equipment and learning the skills needed to become a rifleman. Dummy ammo is mandatory: It allows you dry practice, logging in the repetitions necessary to learn how to manipulate your AR.
In the beginning, it’s best to start with the basics, both for equipment and learning the skills needed to become a rifleman. Dummy ammo is mandatory: It allows you dry practice, logging in the repetitions necessary to learn how to manipulate your AR.

But there’s a lot more to NPOA than getting the first shot to land where you want it: NPOA helps “hold” that position as the shot is fired and in-between multiple shots.

Sight, Breath And Trigger

Your visual hold with iron sights is achieved by focusing on the front sight. If you’re a pistol shooter, you already know this. Our eyes don’t have the ability to focus on the target, the front sight and the rear sight all at the same time. So, you focus on front sight — the middle of these three objects. The target will be blurry, but you can still tell if the front sight is holding where it should be. The rear sight is blurry — a ghost ring sight is perfect for this because your eye naturally wants to center the front sight in its rear ring or aperture — but again you can hold the front sight stead in its center.

Hold also involves breath control. If you’re breathing while pressing the trigger, the front sight and muzzle will be moving, which is going to cause vertical separation in your shots. You have to stop breathing to hold the sights steady, and the best place to stop breathing is after you exhale. Empty lungs are always more consistent than “half” full, which will vary according to physical stress. Plus, there’s a natural pause that occurs between exhaling and when you start to inhale. You’re just trying to extend that natural pause out a little longer than normal in order to press the trigger.

Pressing the trigger smoothly is mandatory for shooting accurately as well. Think about it this way: Your job is to hold the sights on target and smoothly press the trigger. It’s up to the rifle to decide when to fire the shot. When the shot does break, it should be what Jeff Cooper called a “surprise” break. Otherwise, you’ll anticipate the shot, muscling in behind the rifle in anticipation of the recoil that’s coming – and this will throw your accuracy way off. Hold it steady, pressssssss the trigger and let the rifle fire the shot.

AR 22

Once the shot fires, you follow through … which consists of recovering from the recoil, reacquiring the sight picture and resetting the trigger. This sequence ensures you don’t disturb the harmonics of the rifle, which will affect your accuracy. You concentrate on recovering from the recoil as opposed to attempting to control it. You’re focusing on the front sight before, during and after the shot, and then returning it to the target.

Trigger reset, of course, means keeping it pressed to the rear and then — once the sights are back on target — you release the trigger, but only far enough until you feel the internals of the AR “click,” which means the disconnector has released the hammer so the trigger is holding it back. If you let your finger fly off the trigger after the shot, it will certainly affect accuracy … and not in a good way. Plus, follow through prepares you to shoot again if necessary.

Today’s Best Learning Tool

Eventually, you start working with other positions, such as sitting and variations of kneeling, and learning how to manipulate the AR — loading, unloading and reloading, and clearing malfunctions. Again, the AR is a great platform for this. All its controls are in exactly the right place for both right- and left-hand shooters.

A rifleman should also know how to maintain an AR. Keeping it clean and lubricated ensures a lifetime of service. It’s usually a simple task to replace a broken or worn part, which doesn’t happen often.

At some point, you start to develop an understanding of ballistics and trajectory. You learn what’s necessary to make a shot at distances multiple-hundreds of yards and beyond.

Rifle work is like a religion, with a little “r.” You have to practice it regularly … otherwise it does you no good. You study and research. It’s something you never master; you’re always striving to improve. The AR is a great firearm to take this satisfying and rewarding journey with.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the February 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Taking Your AR On The Hunt

If you hunt, it’s not fair to keep your AR all penned up at the range.

How the AR is on target for hunting:

  • Easily configured for the field.
  • Switch uppers to match caliber with game.
  • Overall light rifle to carry.
  • With right caliber appropriate for everything from varmints up to big game.
  • Proven accurate platform.

The AR is a versatile platform. Its modular design allows the user to configure the AR to do almost anything, from self-defense and patrol work to long-range precision shooting to run-and-gun competitions. In recent years, the AR has been gaining popularity with hunters. You can truly have one rifle — the lower receiver — and by exchanging a few parts use it for small game and varmint shooting, putting food on the table and defusing the “pig bomb.”

The “modern sporting rifle” — the AR — can be used for much more than just defensive applications. It’s a great platform for hunting, and its modular design makes it even more versatile. Just remember to check restrictions on caliber and magazine capacity, and choose the proper ammo.
The “modern sporting rifle” — the AR — can be used for much more than just defensive applications. It’s a great platform for hunting, and its modular design makes it even more versatile. Just remember to check restrictions on caliber and magazine capacity, and choose the proper ammo.

The .223 Rem./5.56 NATO is a great round for mid-size game. This caliber is a descendant of the .222 Remington, or “triple duce,” which was introduced in 1950. The .222 Rem. is a flat-shooting, accurate round that immediately found favor with bench-rest and varmint shooters. (The first recorded “one-hole” group — five shots at 100 yards measuring 0.0000 inches — was shot by Mac McMillan in 1973 using the .222 Rem.) In Europe, where military calibers are prohibited, deer hunters put it to good use: The .222 Rem. was stretched out to create the .223 Rem., which leads to the 5.56 NATO military round.

The “modern sporting rifle” concept introduced a new generation of hunters to the AR platform. They discovered that the AR is useful for much more than defensive/combative applications: It’s an easy rifle to shoot, it’s extremely accurate with low recoil and it allows for immediate follow-up shots. The AR is easy to transport, too — just separate the upper receiver from the lower and you’ve got a compact package for travel. And, hunters have learned that the precision AR is something they could assemble, as opposed to spending a lot of money and waiting for a gunsmith to complete a custom build.


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It also motivated the design and development of alternative caliber ARs: It’s no secret that you can have a “black rifle” in a variety of calibers and colors. New products, such as free-floating handguards, match-grade barrels and specialty optics, have been specifically designed for hunting and thusly were brought to market.

And again, the AR’s modular design is a big plus for hunters. Push out the two takedown pins and the upper receiver group — the actual receiver, barrel, bolt group and sights/optics — is easily separated from lower receiver group (lower receiver, trigger group, buffer assembly and stock/grip).

The part considered to be the “actual rifle” is the lower receiver, which is has a serial number. So, you can actually have one rifle — the lower receiver — that you can pair with a variety of calibers simply by swapping out the upper receiver.

From Range To Field

Your .223 Rem./5.56 NATO AR will work for mid-size game … with the correct bullet. As mentioned above, the .222 Rem. was a popular cartridge for deer hunting in Europe, and the .223/5.56 works just as well here in the States (some states or areas you hunt might have restrictions/limitations on caliber size, so check the laws).

The AR is one rifle that will do almost anything, and that certainly includes hunting. By swapping upper receivers, you can run a variety of calibers through your lower receiver for a variety of pursuits. Or, you can assemble dedicated rifles for specific purposes — and with the proper tools and knowledge you can do it yourself.
The AR is one rifle that will do almost anything, and that certainly includes hunting. By swapping upper receivers, you can run a variety of calibers through your lower receiver for a variety of pursuits. Or, you can assemble dedicated rifles for specific purposes — and with the proper tools and knowledge you can do it yourself.

Hunting with the .223/5.56 is all about bullet selection. The standard 55-grain round will function well, but most hunters will step up in bullet weight, using a hunting bullet designed with a hollow-point or ballistic tip. As with any ammunition, you’ll need to test fire for function and to confirm accuracy, making any adjustments required to get a hard zero. Remember, switching ammo — from one weight/type ammo to another — can cause a significant shift in point of impact.

Your AR can also be used for small game hunting. It’s an extremely accurate round, even at long distances, and a favorite for varmint hunting. But, it’s a little too “hot” for small game such as squirrels or rabbits, where you want to harvest the meat.

The solution is to pick up a .22 LR conversion kit. The .22 kits have a bolt group and modified magazines, so converting your AR to .22 LR is easy. Like always, the secret to shooting accurately and reliable functioning is ammo selection. Test fire a variety of .22 LR ammunition until you discover what works best in your kit. At the same time, adjust the sights as required. Also, after using a .22 kit, be sure to clean everything well. The .22 LR rounds can foul the barrel heavily and will sometimes leave residue in the gas system. Clean well, then test fire with your centerfire cartridge to confirm function.

Maybe your hunt needs a little more punch or distance than the .223 Rem./5.56 NATO provides. You can swap out upper receivers and convert your AR to a 6.5 Grendel. Now you’re pushing bullets from 90 to 129 grains with velocities from 2,900 fps with the light bullets to 2,500 fps with the heavier bullets. This provides more thump on target, especially at extended distances. And, you’re using the same .223/5.56 magazines you already have, although mag capacity will be slightly reduced due to the diameter of the bullet’s case.

Hunting AR 1

Another option is converting to the .300 Blackout round. This round is a favorite among pig hunters, especially those using suppressors. The .300 BLK is available in a wide variety of weights, ranging from 70 to 90 grains at around 2600 fps, to heavier bullets in the 220-grain weight moving at around 1,000 fps.

Of course, you also have the option of getting the AR in .308 Win., the original AR caliber used in the AR-10. This caliber is definitely big enough for mid-sized to large game. Or, there are a variety of offerings in different calibers. But, this gets away from the one-rifle concept.

The “modern sporting rifle” is a perfect platform for the modern hunter. It’s easy to use, reliable, accurate and available in a variety of calibers. By easily swapping out parts, you have one rifle that will do and hunt almost everything — and you can even build it yourself. And, if things get really bad, you can still use it for self-defense.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the October 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AR Basics: The Indispensable Gun Light

The right combination of a gun light and a handheld flashlight could save your life.

What to look for in a gun light:

  • Reliable: Rugged enough to not only handle combat conditions, but also gun's recoil.
  • Beam: Provides necessary output and shape to locate and identify threats.
  • Compact: Should be small enough not to interfere with operation of gun.
  • Switch: Intuitively places for simple operation.

For defensive use, a light on your AR is mandatory. Yes, there are techniques for using a hand-held light — and you should know them — but there’s no reason not to have a flashlight on your AR. A proper light setup has no disadvantages, and it greatly simplifies working in the dark.

Using The Light

The majority of confrontations occur in low-light conditions, and if it’s too dark to identify the possible danger, you’ll have to use a light.

There are techniques for using a handheld light with the AR or any other long gun, but having a weapon-mounted light is going to make things a lot easier. The key is having good equipment and learning how to use it.
There are techniques for using a handheld light with the AR or any other long gun, but having a weapon-mounted light is going to make things a lot easier. The key is having good equipment and learning how to use it.

Let’s say you’ve identified a threat — you’re legally and morally justified in shooting — you’re going to need light to shoot accurately, especially when the threat is moving. And when the immediate threat is down or gone, you use the light to scan other areas of concern, ensuring there’s no other danger.

The light is also used to communicate. You see a possible threat or area of concern and need to point out the area to your partner — use the light to mark the area (you can do the same thing with a laser). The light is used to navigate unfamiliar terrain, and when engaging the threat, you’re putting blinding light in their eyes, which is a definite plus. That light comes in handy for a lot of different reasons.

Use the light as little as possible — or as much as necessary. There might be enough ambient light for you to move or search without artificial light. Then, you locate a possible problem and light it up to determine what your response should be. Or, it might be so dark you can’t see, which means using the light during movement to ensure you don’t expose yourself to unseen danger. Regardless of what you’re doing or how much light you’re using, if someone starts shooting at your light you must turn it off and move.

Low-Light Equipment

In the “old” days, attaching a light to your long gun required a lot of creativity. It usually involved some combination of wooden blocks, elastic inner tubes, duct tape and hose clamps. Today, there are a variety of options for mounting a light, regardless of what handguard type your AR has.

It might be necessary to transition to the handgun, but you can still use the light mounted on your AR. The key to this technique is knowing how to shoot and manipulate your handgun using only one hand.
It might be necessary to transition to the handgun, but you can still use the light mounted on your AR. The key to this technique is knowing how to shoot and manipulate your handgun using only one hand.

I prefer to mount the light at an 11 o’clock position as a right-handed shooter, and I operate the light with the thumb of my support hand. This positions the light in the right location for working to the left or right of cover, or clearing right- or left-turn corners, or working over the top of an object — and it doesn’t block my sights.

To attach the light, you can use a removable mount, which allows you to swap the light from one weapon to another or take it off to use as a hand-held light. Or, it can be a permanent type mount, which clamps on, requiring tools to install or remove.


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As for a gun light itself, I’m a big fan of simplicity. Fighting in the dark is complicated enough without complicated equipment. I use lights with a tail-cap-activated button. You press it for momentary activation, or click it for constant light. Lights with high/low/strobe modes that are determined by the button sequence are too complicated.

Training And Practice

So, your light setup is good to go — but you still need a good handheld light standing by, and the skills to use it with the long gun or pistol. If the light the AR light fails, you pull out the handheld and keep working. If you lose the AR or have to transition to the handgun due to a stoppage, it’s again time to use the handheld. The unexpected constantly occurs in fight, so be ready.

For a right-handed shooter, mounting the light in an 11 o’clock position works well. The support hand thumb is used to operate the light.
For a right-handed shooter, mounting the light in an 11 o’clock position works well. The support hand thumb is used to operate the light.

Once you get everything set up, it’s time to hit the range. Training is necessary to get an introduction to the proper techniques. There’s a lot more to working in the dark than most people think: There are specific principles and techniques you need to become familiar with. After receiving training you need to practice. Practice — repetition — is when the real learning occurs. You become comfortable with working in the dark, learning how to “paint” with the light or move and shift shadows around to see what they might contain.

Even though you have a light on the AR, it’s still necessary to know how to work with a hand-held light — again with training and then through practice. In the past, all the bulbs used were incandescent, and the two times I need the light on the AR were the two times the bulb blew out. That’s less a problem today with LEDs, but luckily I had a handheld light to flow to and was able to stay plugged in.

The weapon-mounted light makes things simple, and a handheld light offers more versatility. You can have the AR pointing in once direction while using the light to scan in another area.

Another concern is transitions: say you have a light on the AR, but it experiences a stoppage, so you must transition to the pistol. There are techniques to keep using the light on the AR while working with the pistol. When working with two weapons, things become exponentially more complex — but it’s nothing that practice can’t solve.

Final Thoughts

AR Lights 3

A lot of people have a fear of having to fight in the dark. If you have the proper equipment and skills, there’s nothing to be afraid of. For those who “own the night,” working in the dark can be an advantage — just make sure your gear and skills are up to the challenge.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Should You Own A Pistol Caliber Carbine?

If you're in the market for a pistol-caliber carbine, do the pros outweigh the cons?

Should You Buy A Pistol Caliber Carbine:

Cons:

  • Marginal velocity improvement
  • Added weight to shoot a pistol cartridge
  • Over penetration issues
  • Pistol caliber ammunition heavier than rifle
  • Bolt and buffers heavier in AR versions

Pros:

  • Common ammunition for pistol and rifle
  • Compatibility between pistol and rifle magazines
  • Economical ammunition
  • Highly suppressible
  • Honestly, they're fun

ARs truly are a platform of customizable wonder. Today, you can have an AR in a variety of calibers, from .17 rimfire up to several centerfire rounds in .50 caliber. Particularly popular, and gaining more fame all the time, are the pistol-caliber ARs, available in 9mm, .40 S&W, 10mm and .45 ACP. Should you have a pistol-caliber AR? That depends on several factors, such as use or application. And, we can’t discount the fun factor, the unique design and its historical significance.

It might be necessary to transition to the handgun, but you can still use the light mounted on your AR. The key to this technique is knowing how to shoot and manipulate your handgun using only one hand.
It might be necessary to transition to the handgun, but you can still use the light mounted on your AR. The key to this technique is knowing how to shoot and manipulate your handgun using only one hand.

Colt’s 9mm AR — SMG R0635 — was introduced in 1982. The original goal was to use as many standard AR parts as possible. After extensive testing and changes, Colt settled on a blowback system, as opposed to the gas-impingement system in the M16/AR15 — and a closed-bolt design, instead of the open-bolt design first envisioned. It did, however, use a standard M16/AR15 lower receiver with an adapter that accepted modified 9mm UZI magazines; a groove was added to the mag body so the bolt locked open when empty. At the time, the sub-gun market was dominated by H&K’s MP5, and the handgun-caliber AR never really took off. In the last few years, however, the handgun-caliber carbine has gained new traction, and today there are a lot of options available for this platform.

The question — as always — is a simple one: Do you need one? I usually start by comparing the disadvantages and advantages of a platform. Sometimes a weapon fits a specific application, or sometimes it’s something that would just be fun to own and shoot.

Disadvantages Of A Pistol-Caliber AR

The benefits of using a carbine in a rifle caliber are many. At the top of the list are the ballistic advantages. A rifle round is much more accurate, especially at extended distances. In the terminal ballistics category, the rifle rounds do a much better job of stopping the threat. Velocity is the key: A 55-grain 5.56 NATO round moving at 2,800 fps dumps a lot more energy on the target than a 230-grain .45 ACP bullet traveling at 900 fps.

A pistol round simply doesn’t have the energy to do the job, and this is true regardless of barrel length. With a pistol-caliber AR, you have a rifle platform — basically the same shape, size and weight of an AR carbine — but without the benefits of accuracy, distance and stopping power.


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Although the pistol round is moving slower, you have to worry about it over-penetrating more than the .223/5.56 round. Pistol rounds will penetrate more tissue, sheetrock and wood than the .223/5.56. This has been well documented. A pistol-caliber AR has less stopping power, and the chances of over-penetration are higher.

Compared side-by-side, round-to-round, pistol-caliber ammunition is heavier than the .223/5.56. I weighed a few to illustrate the point: The 115-grain 9mm FMJ weighs 0.444 ounce. The .45 ACP 230-grain FMJ is 0.737 ounce. On the flip side, a 55-grain FMJ 5.56 comes in at 0.407 ounce.

That doesn’t sound like much? Multiple these by 30 to fill a 30-round magazine, and you’re looking at 13.2 ounces for 9mm, 22.11 ounces for .45 ACP and 12.21 ounces for the 5.56. Additionally, most magazines for pistol-caliber ARs hold more than 30 rounds, and the bolt group and buffers are usually heavier as well.

AR-15-For-Home-Defense-Feat
Compared to its pistol-caliber cousins, an AR chambered for 5.56 NATO has a host of advantages.

Is weight really all that important factor? In my opinion, weight is always something to consider. A lighter AR is easier to get on target, easier hold on target for long periods of time and it’s faster when transitioning from one target to another. For competition, self-defense or patrol use, all of these characteristics are important. If circumstances require you to carry the AR for extended periods of time, plus additional magazines — weight becomes important quickly. Remember, the whole purpose behind the development of the intermediate rifle cartridge was weight; the lighter the ammunition, the more you can carry.

Advantages Of A Pistol-Caliber AR

What are the advantages of the AR firing a handgun round? Well, one obvious argument is commonality. You can have an AR that fires the same ammo as your pistol. Some variations go a step further and use pistol magazines. This could be an advantage, but I think it’s small compared to the disadvantages listed above.

Additionally, handgun ammunition is definitely cheaper than rifle ammo. Let’s say you’re a competitive shooter who practices constantly. Your ammo budget will go farther when spent on handgun rounds, whether you’re buying or reloading. Some public and club ranges don’t allow you to shoot rifle-caliber weapons. A handgun caliber AR is the only option you might have, and it’s still good training and practice because the platform is exactly the same as your rifle-caliber weapon. There are also a lot of competitions that are limited to pistol-caliber carbines, so you might be required to use one.

One area where the pistol caliber AR really shines is in the suppressor department. An AR firing sub-sonic handgun rounds with a suppressor is extremely quiet. For me — just keep in mind I’m a little deaf — the sound of the bolt group cycling, ejecting and feeding is louder than the report exiting the suppressor.

Depending on the application, this factor alone might make the handgun-caliber AR the best choice for the job.

Don’t Ever Overlook The Fun Factor

One very important consideration — and I think this is true for all firearm owners — is the fun factor.

Here are two .45 ACP AR-type models built by Flint River Armory. These are fun to shoot, and like all ARs, they’re easy to operate. Handgun-caliber ARs are also an affordable way to send a lot of rounds downrange.
Here are two .45 ACP AR-type models built by Flint River Armory. These are fun to shoot, and like all ARs, they’re easy to operate. Handgun-caliber ARs are also an affordable way to send a lot of rounds downrange.

Shooting, regardless of your ultimate reason, is enjoyable. It’s some of the most fun anyone can have. The AR is easy to operate. Pistol calibers are fun to shoot. With a “handgun-powered” AR, you’ve got both categories covered.

There’s also the “cloning” trend. Several government agencies have used pistol-caliber carbines and sub-guns, and its been employed by different countries around the world. “Cloning,” as referencing the recreation of weapons used by law enforcement and the military, is big and appears to be growing. A 9mm AR might be exactly what you need to complete your collection. Again, that’s not a tactical application, but it definitely falls into the fun category.

Selecting a firearm is a very personal matter. You choose one based on your application, say self-defense.

Maybe you have a specific application that weapon fits exactly — a suppressed weapon or it’s what’s necessary to shoot at your club range. And sometimes, we buy something just because it will be fun to own, shoot and study its history, development and the mechanical aspects of that weapon.

Ultimately, it’s all about what you need … or what you want. Whenever you can satisfy both with one weapon, you’re doing well.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Are You Shooting The Best AR-15 Ammo Possible?

Your ammo choice is more important than what you attach to your quad rail.

Considerations to find the best AR-15 ammo:

  • Chambering
  • Ramp Type
  • Case Material
  • Twist Rate
  • Bullet Style

Choosing ammunition for your AR is as important as every other gear consideration. You have to feed the machine in order for it to function properly — and “properly” starts with reliability. Accuracy, which becomes more critical as distance increases, is another consideration. For defeating a violent attacker, the round has to stop the threat as efficiently as possible. And let’s face it: The AR fires a small round, and the smaller the round, the more critical ammunition becomes.

AR-15-Ammo-4

Loading For Reliability

Choosing ammo starts with identifying how your AR-15 is configured. Start by determining what chamber your AR has. There are three type chambers you’ll come across — discounting aftermarket variations like the .300, 6.8 and 7.62 versions. AR-15s come with a .223 Rem. chamber, a 5.56 NATO chamber and the .223 Wylde chamber, and they’re all slightly different.

You can fire .223 Rem. ammo in the 5.56 and Wylde chamber. And, 5.56 ammo can be used in a Wylde chamber. But never shoot 5.56 ammo through a .223 Rem. chamber. Chamber size is usually stamped in the barrel, along with twist rate, but if you’re unsure, contact the manufacturer to confirm.

What type feed ramps does your AR have? The feed ramps are located at the end of the barrel extension and guide the bullet into the chamber. Older ARs usually have “rifle” ramps that don’t extend down into the upper receiver.

Newer ARs have M4 ramps. These are cuts machined in the upper receiver that lengthens the ramps to ensure feeding of longer bullets into the chamber. With M4 ramps, there shouldn’t be any problem with any bullet type you choose to shoot. Some older rifle ramps, however, will have problems with different types of bullet tips, such as soft points. Just be sure to test fire enough ammo to ensure it feeds in your weapon — every time.

In addition, I use brass-case ammo almost exclusively. The AR was not designed to cycle steel-case ammo, so if you choose to shoot it, you’ll need to keep an eye on a few things: Clean the barrel and chamber more often.

The receiver on the left is cut for M4 feed ramps. This provides a smoother transition for the round to feed from the magazine into the chamber. At right, the receiver is a “rifle” receiver, or older-style AR. This design can cause feeding problems with some types of ammo.
The receiver on the left is cut for M4 feed ramps. This provides a smoother transition for the round to feed from the magazine into the chamber. At right, the receiver is a “rifle” receiver, or older-style AR. This design can cause feeding problems with some types of ammo.

Steel doesn’t expand as much or as fast as brass, so there’s more blowback of powder residue and carbon into the chamber. And if the chamber becomes too tight due to residue, cases start sticking. This is especially true if you switch to brass-case ammo after shooting a lot of steel-case rounds. Steel is also rougher on the extractor than brass, so inspect it and the extractor spring regularly, which you should do anyway.

Most steel-case ammo is loaded with a bullet featuring a steel jacket with some sort of thin copper coating over the steel. There’s a big debate on whether steel-jacketed bullets are harmful to the barrel or not. I think they do harm the barrel. An average shooter may not have a problem, but a full-time shooter will shorten their barrel life by about 50 percent, from around 10,000 rounds down to 5,000 or so.

During classes, I see more function problems with steel ammo than with brass rounds because steel-case ammo can cause additional feeding problems by binding up in the magazine — it’s not very slippery. My advice: If you’re spending a lot of time and money on a shooting trip, take brass-case, high-quality ammo. And no matter what, always test-fire enough of any ammo to make sure it functions properly in your gun.

After you’ve selected a round, you’ll need to test-fire it for function. When you’re at the range, inspect each round prior to loading it in a mag. Ammo companies are running high production rates, and increased production means more faulty rounds. Physically and visually inspect each round before jamming it into your mag.

There’s no reason your AR should not be reliable. Keep it well lubed, clean as necessary and feed it the right ammo, and it will serve you well. If you try to run questionable ammunition through your gun, you’re going to see problems. For plinking on the range, this might not be an issue, although I can’t abide it. When shooting in a match, for hunting or for personal defense — life and death — a stoppage due to faulty ammo is unacceptable. Good ammo ensures you hit the target time after time.

Loading For Accuracy

There is a variety of ammo available for the AR. You can easily identify the type of tip the bullet has, but to know the rest of the details — including bullet style, weight and length — you’ll have to check the manufacturer’s specs.
There is a variety of ammo available for the AR. You can easily identify the type of tip the bullet has, but to know the rest of the details — including bullet style, weight and length — you’ll have to check the manufacturer’s specs.

The definition of accuracy is very subjective. For precision shooters, accuracy is hitting the target at hundreds of yards. For many military applications, it doesn’t really matter where you hit them, as long as you hit them — though precision is always best of course. A sniper needs pinpoint, surgical accuracy. For defensive purposes, things are going to be a lot closer, usually “handgun” distances. So, the question becomes, “How much accuracy do you need?” For self-defense, a round that will hold 1 to 2 minutes of angle is more than suitable.

One of the big considerations is the twist rate of your barrel. Heavier bullets, which are longer, require a faster twist rate. The original 55-grain M193 round worked well with a 1:12 twist rate. As bullets began to get heavier and longer, the twist rate increased. Today 1:7, 1:8 and 1:9 twist rates are the norm, and each will stabilize heavier, longer bullets that weigh 60 grains or more.

Loading For Self Defense

Manufacturers invest a lot of research and study into designing, testing and constructing a round for defensive purposes, and the various departments and agencies on the ground will research, study and test when choosing their duty ammo. Selecting ammunition for self-defense is just as serious.

Self-defense ammo must stop the threat efficiently, transferring its energy into the body. The better the round dumps its energy into the body, the less chance of over-penetrating and passing through the threat. I still like the original M193 55-grain full metal jacket round: It tumbles and fragments in the body, creating multiple wound channels. Just be careful when purchasing it. True M193 has an exposed lead base at the back of the bullet, hence the “explosive” results.

Due to environmental concerns, a lot of companies make a “M193” round, but with a copper jacket that covers the entire bullet — including the base — in order to reduce the shooter to lead exposure created by that round as it’s fired. This completely changes the dynamics of the round, and it doesn’t perform the same as the exposed-base design.

Accuracy is subjective. What might work fine for self-defense may not provide the accuracy necessary to place a surgical shot at 100 yards. Think about your application, then don’t get too caught up in how tight a group your AR can shoot. Most of them shoot much better than we’re capable of as shooters.
Accuracy is subjective. What might work fine for self-defense may not provide the accuracy necessary to place a surgical shot at 100 yards. Think about your application, then don’t get too caught up in how tight a group your AR can shoot. Most of them shoot much better than we’re capable of as shooters.

Steel-case “ball” ammo should never be used for self-defense, unless it’s “the end of the world as we know it” and that’s all you have. Steel-jacketed rounds punch right through the threat, doing little damage — and over penetration is also a major concern. The same is true of M855 “green-tip” penetrator ammo. I’m also not a fan of soft-point rounds. Often, these will not deform, expand or tumble, leading to over penetration.

Matt Weathers, Chief of Alabama’s Conservation Officers, issues his officers a 55-grain hollow-point round. He has personally had to shoot over three hundred deer in his career — putting down severely injured deer and for fetal research — with the .223/5.56 AR. This field research has shown that the 55-grain hollow-point performs best, with little chance of over penetration. For interior work, such as personal defense in the home, a 40-something-grain hollow-point reduces the chances of over penetration even more.

Remember the research that departments and agencies put into choosing a duty round? Their concerns are the same as yours (military matters are completely different.) This might mean the ammunition they use is a good candidate for you, too.

Final Thoughts

The ammo you choose is dictated by what you’re shooting at. Make sure the ammo fits the application — taking into account chamber size and barrel twist. Then, test for function to ensure reliability and accuracy. And then practice. After all, the purpose of shooting is to hit, and hitting the target depends on your skill.

For more information on AR-15s please checkout:

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Which Is The Right Choice?: AR-15 Vs. AK-47

Like day and night, the AR-15 and AK-47 were designed for different purposes. Which one is right for you?

The major differences between AR-15 and AK-47:

  • AK-47s shoots 7.62x39mm.
  • AR-15s were originally chambered 5.56x45mm.
  • AKs have a maximum effective range of about 300 yards.
  • ARs have a maximum effective range of about 800 yards and beyond.
  • The Russian gun operates with a long-stroke piston.
  • The American rifle utilizes a variation of the gas impingement system.
  • ARs are more modular than AKs.

Debating on whether the AR or the AK is “better” is like arguing whether a Ford Mustang is superior to a John Deere tractor. Both have four wheels, engines and transmissions, but they were designed for completely different applications. The AR and AK do exactly what they were designed to do, and they both do it well.

The AR was a rifl e, fi ring the intermediate cartridge. Only later was it produced as a carbine with a 16-inch barrel. The AK was designed for the 7.62x39 cartridge, and is a large submachine gun.
The AR was a rifle, firing the intermediate cartridge. Only later was it produced as a carbine with a 16-inch barrel. The AK was designed for the 7.62×39 cartridge, and is a large submachine gun.

WWII was the catalyst for both weapons. There was no more trench warfare — the Germans had launched the “Blitzkrieg,” or “lightning war.” This principle relied on tanks, artillery and aircraft, and plenty of ground troops to smash through the enemy, overwhelming their defenses. During the first half of WWII, the Germans were almost unstoppable. Post war, the winners began studying, testing and designing weapons and tactics based on this new paradigm.

The time of the “intermediate” cartridge had arrived. During the war, battle rifles ruled the field. These rifles fired full-size cartridges — the 7.62x54R Mosin Nagant or the American .30-06 M1 — with an effective range of 800 yards or so. Studies from WWII showed fights occurred at much shorter distances, and more rounds fired increased the chances of winning. Full-auto fire used by Germans during the war was the path to victory. The intermediate cartridge, the German Sturmgewher, was smaller and fired from a shorter, lightweight platform and was controllable during full-auto fire. The smaller round also allowed soldiers to carry the ammunition necessary to sustain a high rate of fire.

What’s interesting is that the Soviets, known for their heavy-handed bureaucracy, moved quickly through development and fielding of the AK-47. Design began in 1945, and the AK-47 was issued to troops in 1949. The United States, known for its innovation, took a longer route. Due to political pressure, financing or stubbornness, the United States adopted the .308 caliber M14 in the mid 1950s. The M14 is still a heavy battle rifle, and the .308’s recoil was too much to control on full auto. It didn’t perform well against the automatic fire of the AK in Vietnam, and it was replaced by the fully automatic AR-15, known now as the M16, in the mid ‘60s.

Design Differences

The AK-47, which was attributed to Kalashnikov but designed by a team, is a simple, rugged and reliable large submachine gun. Although it’s simple, don’t let that fool you: As Soviet weapon designer Georgy Shapgin said, “Complexity is easy. Simplicity is difficult.” In fact, Kalashnikov’s original designs were too complex, and the team made hundreds of modifications before the final design.

The AR is a little more complicated than the AK. Here you can see the bolt groups, with the AK components on top, which are not made to be taken apart. The AR allows you to change out things like the extractor or spring without special tools or knowledge.
The AR is a little more complicated than the AK. Here you can see the bolt groups, with the AK components on top, which are not made to be taken apart. The AR allows you to change out things like the extractor or spring without special tools or knowledge.

The AK is easy to manufacture and cheap to produce. The original design used stamped and welded receivers, with furniture made from birch wood laminate, which is cheap and durable. It was built with loose tolerances, making the AK a “self-cleaning” carbine because its fired dirt and debris were blown out of the AK.

The AR/M16 is almost a direct contrast to the AK. Although Stoner borrowed from others, just as Kalashnikov, the ultimate product was unique. It’s more complex in design and manufacture. The AR-15/M16, originally only offered as a rifle, utilized aluminum, plastic and a unique gas impingement system that made recoil extremely controllable. In design and application, the AR-15/M16 is for professional soldiers.

Due to the AR’s modular design — it’s easy to swap out parts — the civilian market contributed heavily to the development of aftermarket parts. This included free-floating handguards, a variety of barrel/caliber options and improved trigger assemblies, just to name a few. The introduction of the flat-top upper receiver in the early ‘90s was a major factor. Instead of a carry handle, the upper has Picatinny rail on top to attach various sights. The military incorporated many of these features into specialized rifles and carbines.

It took longer for accessories for the AK to come to market. One factor was the lack of availability. AKs didn’t really become popular and available in the United States until the 1990s. Plus, the AK is not as modular as the AR. Today, there are plenty of aftermarket parts for the AK, and radical customizations are available. It’s almost at the point where it’s sometimes difficult to rapidly distinguish between an accessorized AR and an AK.

Function Differences

The AK’s simplicity makes it easy to “learn.” A large number of Soviet troops were uneducated, couldn’t read or write and spoke various languages. You don’t need a technical manual to learn how to operate and maintain the AK: It field strips down into six main parts, which makes it easy to maintain. Critical components with tight tolerances are not made to be disassembled unless absolutely necessary. In fact, it’s so simple it became the standard weapon for child soldiers, small boys forced into combat during the African civil wars of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

On the left is the .223 Rem./5.56 NATO. In the middle is the 7.62x39, with the newer 5.45x39 round for the AK-74. Each round does exactly what it’s designed to. Which one you need depends on what you’re doing.
On the left is the .223 Rem./5.56 NATO. In the middle is the 7.62×39, with the newer 5.45×39 round for the AK-74. Each round does exactly what it’s designed to. Which one you need depends on what you’re doing.

The AR is more complicated than the AK, but its ergonomics are much better. For example, it has a charging handle and a bolt catch. When the bolt is locked to the rear, such as during an empty reload, you use the bolt catch as a release as opposed to cycling the charging handle. This is much more efficient than cycling the charging handle — with the AK the charging handle is used for everything. Once you know the right techniques, it’s easy for a right- or left-handed shooter to operate the AR efficiently.

Reliability Differences

Nobody questions the AK’s reliability. It has functioned well in every kind of environment and under all conditions. The gas piston design is perfect: You can bury an AK in the dirt, come back a year later, crack the bolt open with your foot on the charging handle, dump some motor oil in it and bang away. AKs work.

Initially, the AR experienced some growing pains due to specs changed in the design and the components used in the ammunition. Since then, it’s definitely earned the title of “America’s Rifle,” and it’s the longest serving standard-issue rifle of America’s armed forces. Most people think the AR’s gas impingement functions too dirty for reliability. They will run dirty — we have one with more than 20,000 rounds through it without a cleaning. The key, however, is lubrication. Keep your AR “wet” and it will run reliably. At some point you may need to replace an extractor or ejector spring or the gas rings on the bolt, but this is an easy task.

Accuracy Differences

The AK-47 fires a 7.69×39 round (the AK-74, an updated version of the classic, fires the 5.45×39 caliber). Due to its loose tolerances, the AK isn’t known for surgical accuracy. It will group 6 inches or so at 100 yards, with a maximum effective range of about 300 yards. For the AK’s design and purpose, this was deemed good enough. Today, there are accurized versions of the AK, but to me this goes against the grain of its design.

The AR is built to tighter tolerances than the AK, making it extremely accurate. The first Colt H-Bar I bought in the 1980s shoots 1-inch groups at 100 yards exactly as it came from the factory. With the proper barrel/twist rate and the right ammo, the AR is capable of getting accurate hits out to 800 yards and beyond.

Which One?

So, which one is best for you? I recommend at least one of each! Both the AK and the AR are reliable, easy to shoot and fun, and they perform exactly as designed. I prefer to stick with the original concepts — my ARs are gas impingement and fire .223 Rem./5.56 NATO. My AKs are 7.62×39 with no modifications.

But, if you so desire, you can have an AR with the AK’s gas piston design, one that fires 7.62×39 ammo or an AK that shoots .223/5.56 ammo. Regardless of which direction you go, remember that it’s up to you to learn how to use it safely and efficiently, and to have the knowledge and parts to maintain it, ensuring reliable service for years to come.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the June 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Building The Perfect AR-15 From The Ground Up

Here’s a piece-by-piece peek into how AR expert Tiger McKee builds all his guns.

What goes into a fighting AR-15?

The best thing about the AR platform is its modular design: You can configure it to fit any application, assembling an AR to meet your specific needs. I’m often asked about how my AR is set up, so I thought this would be a good time to share my setup with you.

Perfect-AR-15-4

Search For Simplicity

The primary purpose for my AR is self-defense, and therefore it’s lightweight — just a tad over 6 pounds. You never know how long you might have to carry your rifle or carbine. The last time we had bad tornadoes here, there was lootin’ ‘n shootin’ in areas nearby. We carried our ARs for 3 days until things settled down. Regardless of the application, unless you only shoot off a bench, weight is always an issue.

Simplicity is another goal, and it’s a concept I apply to all my long guns. The simpler the setup, the easier it is to use under stress. This is especially true for self-defense, when circumstances are likely to be less than ideal.

The Sling

My sling is a simple two-point design with a quick-release buckle. It’s normally used as a carry sling, looping over the support side shoulder. If I need both hands-free, it’s looped over my neck — what I call a “hasty” sling. Looping over the neck can get tiring, even with a lightweight carbine, so for use over extended periods of time I run my support arm through the sling and use it as a tactical sling. A quick-release buckle is mandatory to be able to get loose of the rifle if necessary. It’s a simple design, but it does everything I need. The simplicity concept carries over to other parts of my AR, too.

Stock Selection

I prefer fixed stocks to adjustable models, and use Magpul’s MOE rifle stock almost exclusively. It’s shorter than the A2-length stock, which is a little too long for many shooters. The comb of the stock is wider and sloping, providing a positive, consistent cheek weld. The butt is shaped just right to fit into the pocket of the shoulder, and it has a storage compartment for oil, batteries and other essentials, such as small parts that might need replacing in the field — or small survival items.

In addition, there are multiple locations to attach the sling. I like it on the left rear so, when slung, the carbine lays flat against my body. (Magpul has the same shaped stock in an adjustable version.) On the left side of the stock is a SOF tourniquet.

Grabbing A Grip

If the AR has a design flaw, it’s the sharp corner between the grip and trigger guard. When manipulating the AR, you normally control it with the strong hand on the grip. This places a lot of weight on that “corner,” so it bites into your middle finger.

Any sling that will be looped around the body should have a quick-disconnect buckle. Whether you need to swap shoulders due to an injury or you’re getting dragged down the road ‘cause the sling is hooked on a truck bumper — you need to get free immediately.
Any sling that will be looped around the body should have a quick-disconnect buckle. Whether you need to swap shoulders due to an injury or you’re getting dragged down the road ‘cause the sling is hooked on a truck bumper — you need to get free immediately.

The DuckBill Tactical grip has an extension that smoothes out the transition between grip and trigger guard, alleviating the potential for getting scars on your middle finger. This is important: If your rifle causes pain, you won’t practice, and repetition is mandatory to learn and apply your skills.

The Handguard

Eugene Stoner — considered the father of the AR — was a genius in the ergonomics department. The original ARs had triangular or delta-shaped handguards, which fit the hand really well. But, the design had two problems: The material they were made of cracked and broke easily, and each side required a separate mold to make — one for the left side and one for the right. Later versions of the AR/M16 used round handguards made of stronger material and a single mold.

These days, Precision Reflex Incorporated makes a delta-shaped handguard out of carbon fiber, the Gen III forearm. It fits your hands well, is ultra durable and has plenty of locations to attach a Pic rail as needed. Depending on the position I’m shooting from, I grab the front of the sling in my fist to add stability, so I attach the front sling to the bottom of the handguard.

Vertical Grips

Vertical grips were designed for full-auto fire because the handguard gets too hot to hold. I don’t use vertical grips because they have some disadvantages for general use. First, you’re holding the grip well below the barrel, so all the weight is up high. Think about holding a really heavy lollipop by the stick … it wants to tilt over to the left or right.

Vertical grips also limit where you can locate the support hand, and the location of the support hand varies according to what body position you’re firing from. On top of all that, vertical grips restrict where you can brace or rest the handguard against an object for stability. Simple works well, and it’s versatile.

Sights And Lights

The author is a big fan of Daniel Defense’s A1.5 rear sight because, if the primary red-dot fails, there’s a backup ready for use. It doesn’t have elevation adjustment, but “simple is easy” is key.
The author is a big fan of Daniel Defense’s A1.5 rear sight because, if the primary red-dot fails, there’s a backup ready for use. It doesn’t have elevation adjustment, but “simple is easy” is key.

The “keep it simple” concept also applies to my sights. I use Aimpoint’s “Micro” red-dots. They’re small, rugged and dependable, and they come in several different versions. The sight also stays activated, so if I have to grab it in a hurry I don’t have to worry about turning it on. The battery lasts a long time, but just to be safe I change the battery every other month.

Regardless of what type of optic you run on your AR, you need back-up sights. I prefer fixed sights, and on my favorite rig the front is a standard fixed post, and the rear is a Daniel Defense A1.5 clamp-on that attaches to the Pic rail of the receiver. The Aimpoint is mounted in a 1/3 co-witness position, so the iron sights appear in the bottom third of the red-dot’s window. If the red-dot stops working, all I have to do is lower my cheek weld slightly, acquire the iron sights and keep shooting. If you have flip-up sights, I recommend keeping them up and ready for use.

All long guns for self-defense must have a light. Yes, there are techniques for using a hand-held light, but a weapon-mounted light makes things simple. I use Streamlight’s Super Tac, which is lightweight and simple to use. It’s mounted at an 11 o’clock position, which works well for rolling to the right, left or over the top of cover, and for clearing corners.

The left thumb operates the light, which features a push of the button for momentary light and a click for on and off. The bezel is designed so it throws a wide beam, but it also has an intense cone in the center that allows for identification of objects well past 100 yards. A quick-release scope mount clamped on the light attaches it to the rail on the handguards.

You Gotta Have Good Guts

A sure way to spark a debate between AR shooters is to bring up triggers. As I mentioned previously, my ARs are for self-defense, so a match or competition trigger is not an option. Using a trigger that’s too light under stressful conditions is a sure way to cause negligent, unintentional discharges, and those are scary.

ALG’s ACT trigger is my idea of the “perfect” trigger. It’s an enhanced mil-spec assembly with smoothed surfaces, and it features a nickel-boron-coated trigger with a Teflon coating on the hammer, disconnector and pins. The group comes with two springs that provide a 4½- or 5½-pound trigger pull. I run the 5½-pound spring.

Even though this AR isn’t a precision rifle, it’s still capable of shooting tight groups. The key is using a 2-MOA dot and getting the proper zero so shots are striking in the center of the dot.
Even though this AR isn’t a precision rifle, it’s still capable of shooting tight groups. The key is using a 2-MOA dot and getting the proper zero so shots are striking in the center of the dot.

The bolt group is probably the most critical part of the AR. I run nickel-boron-coated bolt carriers and bolts. They’re slick and easy to clean. Inside the bolt I run the Colt Gold extractor spring. I use the original style solid firing pin retaining pin, as opposed to the split cotter pin found in most bolt groups. The solid pins don’t get bent out of shape and are easier to install.

For the small parts — ejector spring, gas rings and other springs, detents and pins — I use Colt parts. I know Colt doesn’t make all their parts, but I can rest assured that they will be true mil-spec. To cycle everything, I use a Mech Armor Defense ambidextrous charging handle, which is well designed and almost bulletproof.

A True Custom Fit

That’s my defensive AR. Most all my other ARs are set up similarly. They are frighteningly similar in fact, which means regardless of which one I’m working with, it’s the same manual of arms.

Is my setup the perfect configuration for you? Maybe not, but you can take the same principles and apply them to your application.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AR Essentials: Vintage And Retro ARs

There’s something special about shooting recreations of classic AR designs, and acquiring one or devising your own isn’t as hard as it might seem.

How to get a classic AR in your hands:

  • Having been around now for over 50 years, shooters are becoming more interested in classic AR designs.
  • Counterintuitively, in the AR world, Reto means original, vintage means reproduction.
  • There are three routes into classic ARs: buying an original, buying a reproduction or building your own.
  • A number of online forums and books document AR developments and prove vital resources in a build.
  • It’s important not to get caught up in recreating every detail in a build.
  • First off it’s a semi-auto version of the original; secondly, original parts cost a pretty penny.
  • The proper balance is somewhere between authenticity and money spent.

It’s hard to believe the AR-15 has been around for over 50 years. Colt began selling the AR-15 — a semi auto version of the M16 was created for the civilian and law enforcement markets — in the mid sixties. Since that time, the AR has evolved, following suit with the different versions of the M16. The “Black Rifle” is now old enough that it qualifies for the terms vintage and retro, and these older versions of the AR have developed a large following.

These are three of my builds. They look like the originals, but are nowhere near exact. I put them together how I wanted, and I love to shoot them. They are lightweight, reliable and fun on the range.
These are three of my builds. They look like the originals, but are nowhere near exact. I put them together how I wanted, and I love to shoot them. They are lightweight, reliable and fun on the range.

In the art and design world, vintage means an original; retro means a reproduction made to resemble the original. In the AR world, these terms are flipped. This is due to forum listings on the website AR15.com. The forum had a “Retro” category, which mainly focused on Colt’s 600 series rifles and carbines — think Vietnam. For discussion on the 700 Colts — the type weapons fielded in Desert Storm — they formed a “Vintage” category to separate the two styles.

Then you have “Fantasy” rifles/carbines, which use military-type parts but are configured in a way that never came from the factory. But, this doesn’t mean these weren’t used in the field. My go-to AR guy is Matt Weathers, a law enforcement officer and instructor for Shootrite. His dad was 5th SFG (Special Forces Group) and a member of SOG, a special operations unit that served in Vietnam. They carried Colt XM177E2s, an issued carbine with an 11½-inch barrel and collapsible stock. In order to make the carbines more reliable, troops put their upper assembly on a “rifle” lower, which has a fixed stock and a rifle-length buffer and spring. This configuration was never produced by Colt or officially issued, and yet there’s Matt’s dad in the pictures carrying it in the field. (He also used det cord for a sling.)

Getting Into A Classic

There are three options to go old school with an AR. You can buy an original. The problem with this is that a lot of the ARs we want to have and shoot were never produced in semi-auto versions, so the offerings are a little slim. You can buy new ARs that look like originals. Colt, Troy and Brownells build great rifles and carbines based on the earlier models and at affordable prices. Or, you can build your own, using old and/or new parts. Today, if you want an older model AR, there’s no reason not to have one.

Reto-AR-Second

I’ve put together several ARs to mimic the old versions. Early on I learned that assembling the “perfect” reproduction is almost impossible, a matter of luck or just too expensive. In the early days, Colt was building a lot of weapons. Colt was improving the designs as they went; changes were being made rapidly and they were using a lot of different contractors to produce parts. Take the grip as an example. For early model Colts, there are dozens of different grips that vary in exact size, shape and markings. Knowing exactly what part goes with what AR can sometimes be difficult.

Luckily, you don’t have to be an expert. Trying to figure out what type part you need for a build, or have questions about parts you have? Forums like AR15.com and RetroBlackRifle.com are full of people who have spent years researching and documenting the AR’s history and the various parts used. The AR community is full of good people who will be willing and eager to help in your quest.

Another great source of info are the Black Rifle series of books published by Collector Grade Publications. These two volumes get into the gritty details of the rifle’s history and development. Volume I, by Stevens and Ezell, was published in 1987 and covers the beginning and early years of development. Black Rifle II, by Bartocci, picks up there, covering later versions of the weapon like the M-4. The Vickers Guide: AR-15 Volume I is another good read. While it’s not as technical as the Black Rifle books, it’s just as interesting, and contains outstanding photographs. There’s even one section entirely devoted to reproductions, with clones of significant and historical rifles and carbines.

Cost vs. Authenticity

Searching for parts is part of the fun of a build, especially with vintage/retro projects. Both of these reproductions — a rifle and carbine — are built exactly as the real ones would have been. With a mix of original parts and new parts machined to the old specs, you can assemble any type AR.
Searching for parts is part of the fun of a build, especially with vintage/retro projects. Both of these reproductions — a rifle and carbine — are built exactly as the real ones would have been. With a mix of original parts and new parts machined to the old specs, you can assemble any type AR.

One word of caution on starting a build: Don’t get too caught up in all the details. Yes, I want an authentic AR, but it ain’t gonna be perfect. First off, it’s a semi-auto version of the real thing. Next, I’m not paying some of the prices that original parts are bringing. A pristine set of factory, original green furniture for an AR is going to cost you a few thousand dollars. Reproductions from Brownells will only be about eighty dollars. There are also outstanding shops like Retro Arms Works and NoDak Spud that recreate hard-to-find parts that match the factory, original specs.

With hot rods, speed is a question of money. How fast you go depends on how much you spend. The same can be said of authenticity and ARs. I’m all for authentic, but I’m not going to let that stand in the way of me having the type of AR I want. The retro/vintage thing is learning about the older weapons and having fun. You’re looking for the proper balance between “authentic” and the money you spend. It’s hard to have fun if you have to break the bank. Plus, all of my ARs end up seeing hard use. I don’t want to worry about scratching or breaking something costly and collectible.

Modern Sporting Rifles are cool. They are the pinnacle of design and function. But — given the choice — when it comes time to head to the range, I’m going to take one of my old school reproduction ARs. These are lightweight, simple and reliable weapons, the same type used in Vietnam, Desert Storm and Mogadishu. They feel good in the hand, are fun to shoot and help me connect to an earlier time and the heroic deeds of the brave soldiers who carried them.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AR Basics: Home-Defense Carbine Considerations

There are some specific factors in play when choosing an AR for home defense. Here’s what to consider.

What sort of AR do you need for home defense?

When choosing a firearm for home defense, there are a lot of different areas to consider. Stopping power is a primary concern, but you also have to be concerned about over penetration. And you need a weapon that’s easy to use for all members of the family. Most people immediately think about pistols and shotguns; however, the AR platform has a lot of advantages over both of these and might be your best choice for home defense.

Home-Defense-Guns-AR15-Lead

The Power To Stop

The first category to examine is stopping power. If forced to shoot, you need to stop the attacker as efficiently as possible … and handguns come up short in this category. Handgun rounds almost always require multiple hits — in the right locations — to stop an attacker. The numbers and stats you see most often in defensive pistol shootings are three and four shots fired. The only advantage of pistols is that they’re small, easy to conceal and light to carry. Inside your home, concealment is not an issue.

On the other hand, shotguns have excellent stopping power. But, even with typical defensive loads — buckshot, slugs or even birdshot — over-penetration is a major concern. Plus, no matter how good you are, surgical shots with a shotgun — for example, dealing with a hostage situation — are extremely difficult.

Rifle cartridges also have excellent stopping power, but the problem with most rifle rounds is over-penetration — except for the .223 Rem./5.56 NATO, a lightweight bullet moving at high velocity. Once that round hits anything denser than air, it begins to tumble, fragment or expand, dissipating and dumping its energy quickly.

The .223 Rem./5.56 NATO — as long as you’re not using one of the penetrator rounds designed to punch through material — will penetrate less material than most handgun, rifle or shotgun rounds. There is plenty of research on this to study, but just keep in mind there are always exceptions.

You’ll also want to avoid rounds designed for long-range shooting, which are heavier in order to maintain accuracy at extended distances. Your best bet is a round specifically designed for self-defense, which have excellent stopping power and have a very minimal chance of over penetrating. Another advantage of the .223 Rem./5.56 NATO is that it’s light in recoil, which means almost anyone in the family can handle it.

Integrated Intuition

In addition to light recoil, the AR is user-friendly. Stoner was a genius when it came to ergonomics, and all the controls for the AR are in just the right place. It’s one of the easiest weapons to operate, and the AR works well for both right- and left-hand shooters — as long as you have the right techniques.

home-defense-ar-first

My favorite ARs are lightweight, at about 6 pounds. This makes them easy to handle, especially indoors, and anyone with normal upper body strength can use it properly. Plus, you can set the AR up with adjustable stocks and other goodies, allowing you to “custom” fit it for whoever is using it. In short, the AR is one platform that will fit everyone.

Length Lamentations

One concern voiced by a lot of shooters contemplating the AR for home defense is the overall length. Try this: Have one person mount up an AR carbine with a 16-inch barrel, and have another person stand next to them holding a pistol extended out at arm’s reach. The location of the muzzles will be about the same. And if the carbine is a little bit longer, it’s more than worth it for the additional stopping power.

Still, if length is a worry, you have a couple of options. There are SBRs, or short-barrel rifles, readily available with a barrel less than 16 inches in length, but an SBR requires approval from the ATF and a fee for a tax stamp.

Today we have AR pistols. An AR pistol uses the same parts as the rifle or carbine and shoots the same rounds, but it has a short barrel — all without filing Federal paperwork, waiting on approval and paying the tax fee. Plus, with an AR pistol, you don’t have to get approval to travel out of state with it like you do an SBR. (Keep in mind that it’s your job to adhere to all local, state and federal laws when it comes to any firearm.)

Lighting Them Up

All firearms for home defense should have a light on them, and the AR is no exception. The light is needed to locate, identify and, if necessary, accurately engage the threat. With the AR, this is easy: Regardless of the type handguards your AR has, there’s a mount to attach a light to it … plus anything else you want.

I’m right handed, so I prefer the light in an 11 o’clock position and as far forward as possible. This positions the light in the right place for working right- and left-hand corners, or over the top of an object. (Left-handed shooters will want a 1 o’clock mount.) I use a push-button tail cap, with momentary and constant on, and I easily operate the light with the thumb of my support hand while the rifle is shouldered.

Add a red-dot sight — and maybe a laser — and you’ve got a lightweight, ergonomic home defense weapon. Yes, you’ll lose a little velocity due to the length of the barrel, but it’s still a lot better than any handgun round, and, again, with limited penetration concerns.

Psychological Advantage

The final category to think about is the psychological advantages of the AR for home defense. In the “me” category, the AR provides a warm, fuzzy feeling. I know it will stop the threat efficiently; that’s definitely a plus in the confidence department.

home-defense-ar-second

We also can’t discount the psychological effects on the threat. I’ve seen numerous people that had pistols pointing at them and weren’t too worried about getting shot. I’ve never seen someone facing a rifle that said, “Go ahead and shoot me.” I’m sure it’s happened; I’ve just never seen it.

Equipping yourself with a firearm for self-defense is all about finding the right weapon to fit your needs. Maybe the AR isn’t for you, but don’t dismiss it without giving it serious study and consideration. When faced with a violent attacker, your job is to stop the threat as efficiently as possible. This is especially true inside your home, where avoidance or escape might not be an option. With the proper training and practice, the AR platform in .223 Rem./5.56 NATO will serve you exceptionally well.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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