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Fusil Automatique Leger: All About The FAL

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We discuss the history of the famous FAL, also known as the Fusil Automatique Leger or Light Automatic Rifle.

Post-WWII, the West had a problem. The Europeans, having paid attention to the recent fracas (especially the Eastern Front), had developed new less-robust service cartridges and rifles for them. The problem? The Americans and their insistence on retaining a 1,000-yard cartridge. All the Euro efforts at lightweight, compact rifles with low recoil and bullpups (we’re looking at you, England) were out the window. The USA was paying the bills, and the USA was going to get what they wanted, cartridge-wise.

Deuidonne Saive, head designer at FN, modified his excellent (but already retro, even in the late 1940s) SAFN, the FN-49, to make it what NATO needed: Out went the fixed 10-shot magazine for detachable 20-shot magazines; out went the wood stock and in came plastic; out went the regular contour and in came a pistol grip.

The end result by 1953 was the FAL.

FN-FAL-1

The Free World’s Right Arm

The FAL is a gas-operated, piston-driven, self-loading rifle, and it ended up being chambered in 7.62 NATO. The gas system is simple and straightforward, with a gas port in the barrel tapping gas out of the bore to hit the end of the piston. The piston slaps the bolt carrier, and after the carrier has moved, the FAL piston is returned forward by its own spring.

FAL-receiver

The carrier is a chunk of steel that cams the bolt up, then carries it back. Once fully back, it’s then driven forward by the action spring (contained in the stock in the non-Para version) to strip a round out of the magazine and cam the bolt down to lock it in place.

The FAL is not a turning-bolt design, as was the Garand and its successor, the M14.

The FAL is made of two main assemblies, the upper and lower receivers. To disassemble, unload and remove the magazine. The magazine lever is on the left side, forward of the trigger guard.

FAL-takedown-lever

Press the takedown lever on the left rear of the receiver back (or down on some variants) and hinge open the rifle. Grab the top cover and slide it out of the upper receiver. Now, pick up the tail of the carrier and slide it and the bolt. On the hinge point, you’ll see a large-head screw with a slot in it. It’s as simple as unscrewing the hinge and pulling the two parts out (one to each side) while keeping the two receiver assemblies under control.

FAL-stripped

The gas system is adjustable. The gas port is a direct-to-air design, and the adjustment is done with a ridged nut on the gas block. The nut is machined with the top as a spiral cut, so as you adjust it, you cover or uncover more of the gas port bleed hole. More bleed, less gas to the piston; less bleed equals more gas to the piston. You adjust it by cranking it wide open and loading a single round.

Fire.

Does the bolt lock open? No? Click in a notch and repeat. Continue until the bolt locks open and then add one more click. What you’ll find is that your FAL (should you be so lucky) will work with pretty much everything at the setting you find with the first ammo you try.

FNFAL-gas-block-2

Worldly Influence

Back in the 1970s and 1980s, the FAL was the Holy Grail of exotica small arms, the lust desire for survivalists, the rifle with enough panache to box up and sell. And a price to match. In 1980, the list price for an FAL was $2,000. Adjusted for inflation, that’s $7,580 today. A Colt AR-15 was $340 back then, and an HK 91 was $390.

Assuming you had 2 grand to spring for one, finding one would have been difficult. I was working gun shop retail then and walking local gun shows every weekend, and I do not recall ever seeing one—period. In fact, the first one I saw was when our gun club treasurer brought his to the club to shoot in his first 3-gun match. When he found out it was not at all competitive—and kicked him silly (he was maybe 5 feet, 7 inches and 140 pounds soaking wet)—he traded it at the next gun show for a Colt HBar and a literal trunkload of ammo.

The FAL was always a rarity in the U.S. until the “Great Parts Kit Era.” The initial imports were done from FN through Browning, and like other FN products, the markup was ferocious. There was a period when Century was importing parts kits and building up rifles, as they had done with so many other military rifles. Springfield Armory imported Brazilian parts, and rifles, as their SAR-80.

FNFAL-gas-block

While literal boatloads of AK parts kits were being imported in the early 2000s, there were also large numbers of FAL parts kits brought in, just not as many. They were kits for two reasons. One, the importation of military arms had been restricted by the various “assault weapon” bans. And two, most FALs were select fire. You may read that the British L1A1 wasn’t select fire … well, yes and no.

The L1A1 was made exactly the same as select-fire FALs, but in the receiver opening for the auto sear and such, the British installed a bolt-lock setup that kept it from firing with the bolt only partially locked. In the words of the MOD Museum staff I’ve talked to about this, “Put in the full-auto parts and it runs full auto.”

Oh, and the British changed one other big thing: You’ll read about “metric” and “inch pattern” FALs. As far as the dimensions are concerned, both are mostly the same, and details are close enough to not matter … except for the magazines.

fn-fal-magazine-inch-v-metric
Inch-pattern FAL mag (left) vs. metric-pattern.

The metric mags use a stabbed-out lip on the front as a latching tab. The British replaced that with a soldered-on steel lip. Why? Because they wanted to be able to use L1A1 magazines in the LMG L1A2 (a heavy-barreled L1A1), and in their modified Bren guns, and the metric stab-lip wasn’t up to the task.

Oh, and the British also adopted the folding charging handle, from the Para version, for their fixed-stock FALs.

Parts kits had to be built on new receivers, which was a task a lot more difficult than bending flats to make AK receivers. Upper FAL receivers (the serialized part) are machined forgings (or in some replacements a casting), and it must be done right. Parts kits also had to have enough imported parts replaced to be “922r compliant,” which meant a handful of U.S.-made parts.

FAL-mag-release

There Are Many Like It, But…

My FAL is an L1A1 parts kit built up on an Entreprise receiver. The history there is that the early receivers (mine seems to be) were good, but QC faded away, and the later ones were simply parts-holding anvils. Mine was assembled without the carry handle (something I’ll have to correct).

FAL-entreprise-arms-receiver

The FAL was built with a replaceable locking shoulder, so headspace could be adjusted and assembled correctly, and this is a detail that was apparently overlooked in some homebuilt FALs. (Mine, again, came out correctly.) Parts are getting scarce, but you can still have the headspace corrected if yours needs it, along with some other details.

The hard part for me was magazines. The FAL magazines have never been as available as AR or AK mags, and the inch pattern ones are even scarcer than metric mags. I considered myself lucky to have scored a bunch of them at $40 each, even though some were dented, and I’ll have to lift those dents.

The FAL is not a compact rifle. It’s 43 inches long, weighs more than 9 pounds and each magazine, holding 20 rounds, when fully loaded is 1 pound, 12 ounces by itself. If you are headed out on patrol with an FAL and seven magazines (140 rounds total), you are hoisting about 20 pounds of personal ordnance. This is not an exercise for those who have not been eating their Wheaties.

Recoil is what you’d expect, except more. Despite its weight, the FAL comes back at you. This is due in part to the mass of the bolt and carrier bottoming out in the receiver. The Para model, with its folding stock, uses a different recoil system, contained completely in the upper receiver (standard FALs are as common as dirt, compared to the rarity of the Para FAL).

FN-FAL-bolt

Yes, you can rebuild an FAL into a Para model, but it requires a complete recoil assembly parts swap, as well as the stock. Assuming you could even find the parts now, it would cost about as much as just buying a Para. But darn, they are cool.

I’ve got one of those as well, a DSA build. And speaking of my DSA, a word about the parts kits: avoid the Indian ones. If you stumble across an FAL parts kit, you can still get it built, as DSA does offer upper receivers as well as built rifles.

The Indian parts are not to spec. When I arrived at DSA for the build for an article, one Indian part after another had to be rejected as out-of-spec, and often so out that it couldn’t even be modified, shimmed or altered to fit. I think by the time we were done, the resulting Para had two or three original parts—total—in it. That’s the risk you run.

Running an FAL is fun, and assuming you can handle the length and weight, it certainly delivers. Mine has a muzzle brake on it, part of the 922r compliance build, and it also takes a couple of inches off the original length as well as keeping the muzzle down. The original flash hiders were even longer than the ones you’d see on an M14/M1A.

FAL-muzzle-brake

In the service life of the FAL, it was adopted by something like 75 countries, and produced under license in half a dozen of those countries. But not the United States. Why? Basically, the fix was in, the M14 was going to replace the Garand, and when it came time to test the M14 side-by-side with the FAL, the testers knew they had to make the M14 the winner.

There are a lot of rifles that will get you some attention at the gun club, or on the firing line at the range you frequent. But none of them, short of something in .50 BMG, or belt-fed, will get the crowd an FAL will garner. It recalls the Falklands War, the Rhodesian Selous Scouts, Israelis in the desert fending off Egyptian-armored columns and any number of movies made about mercs. (Every bar I walked into on the Falklands had a captured Argentine FAL up on the wall as a trophy.) Even in a plain-Jane formal black, it’s an eye-catching rifle.

The drawbacks are its cost and the shrinking supply of spare parts. The advantages are that it’s an all-steel rifle, and about the only part that will ever wear out is the barrel, which can be replaced. If the time ever comes when there are no more surplus barrels to be had, a competent gunsmith with a big-enough lathe can make a replacement barrel for you from a barrel blank.

It won’t be cheap, but then again, nothing about the FAL ever was.

FN FAL SPECS:

  • Type: Semi-auto gas-operated rifle
  • Caliber: 7.62 NATO
  • Capacity: 20+1 rounds
  • Barrel: 21 inches
  • Length: 43 inches
  • Width: 1.3 inches
  • Height: 7 inches
  • Weight: 9 pounds, 6 ounces
  • Trigger: 5 pounds, 7 ounces
  • Sights: Blade front, aperture rear
  • Grips: Polymer furniture
  • Finish: Black oxide, black paint
  • MSRP: Expensive, but worth it

CHRONOGRAPH DATA

Ammunition/TypeBullet Weight (Grains)Velocity (FPS)ES.SD.Accuracy Average (Inches)
RG69 (Radway Green arsenal), British surplus FMJ1472,6663914.82.5
REM-UMC FMJ1502,7255725.71.9
Federal M80 ball, FMJ1492,781198.82.1
Velocities are averages of 10 shots measured on a Labradar chronograph set to read 15 feet from the muzzle. Accuracy average of four, five-shot groups at 100 yards from a shooting rest.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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Breek Arms Announces Breek-LOK QD Suppressor Mount System

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We take a quick look at Breek Arms’ Breek-LOK, an ultra-lightweight quick-detach suppressor mount system.

Quick-detach mounts are a popular accessory for suppressor owners, especially those who own multiple cans that they want to swap between firearms. Of course, suppressors already add a lot of weight and length to the end of a gun, and going with a mount system over a direct-thread attachment method means adding even more heft and bulk. As is often the case in firearms design, lighter and smaller is better, and that’s exactly what Breek Arms is delivering with its new Breek-LOK.

Breek-Arms-Breek-LOK

The Breek-LOK is a quick-detach suppressor HUB mount system that uses the industry-standard 1.375×24 thread pitch for maximum compatibility. The mount is made of titanium which brings its weight down to just 2.4 ounces, significantly less than most others on the market. Also, its 2-lug design enables it to only add 1.2 inches to the length of a suppressor once installed. Inches stack up fast when adding a can to a rifle, so anything that saves space is a welcome innovation. The speed with which a suppressor with a Breek-LOK mount can be installed or removed from a gun is also impressive, as only 1.5 turns are required to do so.

Breek-Arms-Breek-LOK-mount-attached

Josh Boomgaarden, President at Breek Arms, said this about the new system:

We are thrilled to introduce the Breek-LOK to firearm enthusiasts everywhere … With its unparalleled combination of lightweight design, lightning-fast operation, and universal compatibility, the Breek-LOK represents a true game-changer in the world of suppressor mounting.

The Breek-LOK HUB mount is available now and MSRP for the mount is $255.

For more information, visit breekarms.com.


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Blessed Are The Peacemakers: Top Reasons To Still Own A Colt SAA

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We take a look at the Colt SAA, or Single Action Army, and discuss the top 5 reasons to still own one today.

In 1872, Colt submitted a .45-caliber revolver to the U.S. Army for test and evaluation. In 1873, it was accepted, and one of the greatest firearm legends was born. The Colt Single Action Army (SAA), also known as the Peacemaker, was most generally offered in three barrel lengths. The short 4¾-inch barrel is often referred to as the “Gunfighter,” the 5½-inch-barreled version as the “Artillery Model,” and the longer 7½-inch-barreled version as the “Cavalry,” or standard model.

The revolver enjoyed immense popularity well after World War I, but after World War II Colt tried to retire it. Television Westerns and Bill Ruger’s introduction of the Blackhawk in 1955 forced Colt to bring back the SAA, and in 1956, the second-generation Colt SAA was born. By 1974, sales had once again fallen off, and Colt killed the SAA for a second time.

But shooters would have none of it. Colt began building them—though in limited quantities—again. Over its 150-year history, the Colt SAA has been chambered for more than 30 cartridges.

A new SAA has a retail price of $1,799—you can buy three Glock pistols for that price. And you might wonder what place an antique firearm like the Peacemaker has in this modern world of plastic pistols with electric sights that folks like to carry with the barrel shoved down in their pants toward their junk. That’s a good question, especially for the handgun that probably originated appendix carry. (Since the Colt SAA revolver’s hammer must be cocked before it can be fired, it’s much safer to carry one shoved in your pants behind your belt buckle.)

Here’s five reasons you should own a SAA.

Colt-SAA-10
The Colt Single Action Army is one of the most iconic firearms of all time.

Recreational Shooting

There are a lot of practical applications for firearms, and shooters often justify a firearm purchase with them. However, I think one of the most practical applications for the use and purchase of a firearm is to experience the fun of shooting it. Shooting recreationally is enjoyable, and in this fast-paced world filled with the stresses of employment, parenthood and inflation, a little enjoyment can go a long way.

Colt-SAA-holster-1

When my son was younger, he really enjoyed shooting all the new guns I got to test. I was always surprised that the guns he enjoyed shooting the most were lever-action rifles and single-action revolvers. Though he never directly communicated it to me, I believe the enjoyment he found was partly due to their Old West connection, but even more so since he had to interact with the gun—shuck the lever or cock the hammer—to make the gun work.

And therein lies a large portion of the appeal of the single-action revolver: You have to thumb that hammer back before you shoot, and that action is appealing. It sort of has that ready, set, go feel. I have several single-action revolvers in addition to my Colt SAA. Some I use for specific and practical chores, but most often I shoot them just for the fun of it.

Competition

Most handgun competitions of the day revolved around semi-automatic pistols and, on occasion, double-action revolvers. Modern handgun competitions are fast-paced endeavors that also often include a good deal of athleticism: shoot here, run there, jump that and shoot some more. Not everyone likes to play the run-and-gun game. Fortunately, there’s a specific competitive organization that not only recognizes this, but they also require single-action revolvers.

Colt-Single-Action-Army-horseback-shooting
Mounted shooting is a popular sport with a revolver like the Colt SAA can shine.

The Single Action Shooting Society (SASS) is an organization formed to preserve and promote the sport of Cowboy Action Shooting. SASS was formed in 1987 and serves as the governing body for the sport. SASS members share a common interest in preserving the history of the Old West and the love of competitive shooting. The matches are exciting, and many of the competitors take as much pride in the period costumes they wear as they do in their shooting.

Colt-Single-Action-Army-horseback-shooting-1
You can’t have cowboys without the Colt SAA.

Another sport where the single-action revolver like the Colt Peacemaker is prominent is in mounted shooting. The Cowboy Mounted Shooting Association (CMSA) is an equestrian sport where .45-caliber single-action revolvers firing blank ammunition are used to bust balloons as the competitor negotiates a riding course. And, in the CMSA events, you must wear Western attire.

Colt-Single-Action-Army-reload
The Colt SAA is slow to unload and slower to load, but it’s a blast to shoot.

Hunting

Handgun hunting continues to gain in popularity, but most modern handgun hunters are using semi-automatic handguns … some even suppressed. But back in the day, the single-action revolver was the handgun most often used for hunting. Today, the Ruger Blackhawk is probably the most popular single-action hunting revolver, mostly because it comes with adjustable sights. This gives it a distinct advantage over the fixed-sighted Colt SAA.

This advantage is partly because the sights on the Ruger Blackhawk are much easier to see—some even come with fiber-optic front sights—but also partly because the sights on Colt SAA revolvers rarely point—when the sights are aligned—to the bullet’s exact point of impact. This isn’t a good thing with a handgun that will be used for hunting, especially at ranges extending out to 25 yards or so. Hunters want precise shot placement. For most recreational, competition and self-defense applications, the point of aim/point of impact is close enough for, as they say, government work.

Colt-SAA-ammo
With the right ammo, you can do just about anything with a Colt SAA.

To correct this, you can do one of three things. First, you can find a different load that strikes more closely to your point of aim. Second, you can have a gunsmith slightly bend the front sight or minutely rotate the barrel to correct for windage. And you can file down the front sight to correct for elevation. (It’s been my experience that most Colt SAA revolvers shoot a bit low with full power loads.) Of course, you can also just apply Kentucky windage and hold off the target the appropriate amount to get the desired hit.

The best thing about using the Colt SAA for hunting is that they are available in either .357 Magnum or .45 Colt, and there are a host of powerful big-game loads for both cartridges from Buffalo Bore ammunition.

Self-Defense

I get flustered when folks declare a single-action revolver like the Colt Peacemaker unsuited for self-defense. After all, it was used in the world’s most famous gunfight in Tombstone, Arizona, in 1881 at the OK Corral. It was carried up San Juan Hill by the Rough Riders, and it was a favorite of the famous Texas Ranger Frank Hammer. He liked it so much he nicknamed it “Old Lucky.” General George S. Patton used a Colt Peacemaker to shoot Captain Julio Cardenes, who was a thug in the Pancho Villa gang. The Colt SAA revolver has a long history of winning gunfights.

Colt-SAA-ammo-belt
A wide range of ammo options in .357 Magnum and .45 Colt make a Colt SAA a versatile handgun.

But does that make it a great handgun for personal protection? Well, yes and no. It’s just as effective at stopping a bad guy today as it was when Bat Masterson and U.S. Marshal and manhunter Bill Tilghman relied on it. One well-aimed shot tends to end a gunfight quickly, and as John Wayne’s character John B. Books said in the movie The Shootist, “Most importantly, you gotta be willing.”

Granted, if you’re looking to purchase a handgun for self-defense, there are a lot of better options today than there were in 1873 when the Colt SAA was introduced, or, in 1901, when the movie The Shootist was set. However, if you have a Colt Peacemaker—and if you can shoot—it can serve well as a self-defense handgun. Would I choose it over a 1911 or a Glock? No. But oddly, and at the same time, if I was going to try and stop a pissed-off grizzly, I’d rather have a SAA in .357 Magnum or .45 Colt than I would a 1911 or a Glock in 9mm Luger.

And, as logic would dictate, if it’s a good choice for a toothy critter like a bear, then it would also be a good choice for a human intent on causing death or serious bodily injury. From the holster at 10 yards, I can generally hit an 8-inch plate two times with a Colt Commander in .45 Auto in about 2.8 seconds. Comparably, armed with a holstered Colt SAA in .357 Magnum, I can get the same two hits in about 3.3 seconds.

Finding Your Inner Cowboy

Though it’s been alluded to throughout this article, I do believe that one of the best things you can do with a Colt SAA revolver is find that connection to your inner cowboy. Yeah, I know, some folks like to wear cowboy boots, and others like to wear cowboy hats. I like both, and though I don’t wear slip-on boots as much as I used to, I’m almost always wearing a brimmed hat. Both are, in my mind, a symbol of the American pioneering and rebellious spirit that shaped this nation … and embodies everything that makes Americans, Americans.

Single-Action-Army-gun-belt
The Colt SAA ain’t no Glock, but it’s just as fun to shoot.

But nothing—not boots, a hat, or even the lever-action rifle—can tether you to that cowboy spirt that formed this nation like the Colt SAA. If you’re a pro-Second Amendment patriotic American, who likes guns and likes to shoot, then I can’t imagine you not liking Colt’s SAA.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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The Old & The Bold: Retro Guns And Their Accessories

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We discuss how to adapt the classic guns of yesterday for today’s retro firearms fashion.

They say that fashion is a boomerang: If you throw it out, the style comes back around in a few decades. The guys I grew up shooting and hunting with could never really be considered “fashionable” in terms of dress or style. Indeed, it was probably the opposite; the same uniform of jeans and button-up work shirts, metal-rimmed shop glasses and the ever-present layer of indeterminable grime that somehow never washed out.

Things come around again in the shooting industry, just like high-waisted jeans and bell-bottoms do for the ladies. Right now, we are in something of a retro era, and fashions are favoring the old and bold—as well as simple and nostalgic.

The Ever-Present Past

The interesting part about this current retro trend is that it’s happening almost as a reaction to the events of the world. Many people interested in guns are turning away from the sickening reality of modern warfare and tech-heavy hunting gear, instead looking at trappings of a bygone yesteryear. The ’60s to ’80s are back in style in the shooting world, likely as a collective attempt to forget the state of modern politics.

You see this trend take place again and again: The post-World War II era saw a dramatic shift in narrative to an idealized version of the American West with cowboy culture dominating Hollywood and TV in the face of nuclear Armageddon. Likewise, in the Vietnam era, WWII movies and guns became widely popular as a distraction from the questionable fighting taking place in real life. Today, after our own era of disappointment, we are again finding ourselves comforted by stories from the “golden era” of the 1970s and ’80s, delving heavily into the pre-cellphone age. In the shooting industry, we too are not immune from wanting that idealized comfort of yesteryear.

As a result of this craving for nostalgia, many people are homesick for a place they’ve never been and find it fulfilling to surround themselves with totems of that bygone time where, for some reason, things must have been easier and more rewarding.

We see today a plethora of retro options pouring out of factory doors: From two-tone 1911s with wood grips such as Springfield Armory’s Ronin line, to box-stock A1 and A2 rifles with “outdated” 20-inch barrels from SA, Windham, FN and more—we can’t seem to get enough. Wood stocks are making a big comeback as well, with shotgun vendors like Mossberg producing their own dedicated old-style guns made to look like what you’d see in an old Crown Vic’s cage, right alongside a Smith & Wesson .38 and a sharp mustache.

Gearmageddon

I see the return to retro as a natural phenomenon that has to do with the full-blown saturation of gear we now have. I have tons of gear, a mountain of suppressors, optics stacked high, bins of uppers and lowers, lasers, night vision … and all of it. My phone has many apps dedicated to helping me shoot better and further in day and in night. However, I can’t say that any of this has made me a lick better than the next guy.

retro-ar15-1911
Suppressor setups can in fact be retro … but only in appearance. Modern cans are much better than in years past, and you can dress up your existing suppressor to pair with a retro build easier than the other way around.

What it has done is made me carry as many CR123 batteries as I carry rifle cartridges on a given hunt. Most of my rifles are boat anchors that need a tripod to steady. My equipment is anything but simple and it takes me a great deal of time to maintain it all and keep it running. Simply getting out to shoot takes me a good bit of effort these days, and I’ve slowly grown to resent that feeling of tech over-saturation.

Technology and its associated dependence has led us to an interesting spot—its rejection. While it’s now common to find dot sights on carry guns as well as lights, lasers and all manner of devices to control recoil and blast, the fundamental problem is that these devices add cost and failure points. Remarkably, so many people have decided that iron sights are an appendix and unnecessary, but I don’t fully trust electronic sights even though I use them heavily. I want a backup option.

Seeing that more than a dozen companies are now releasing carry-handle rifles and carbines, the fashion has decidedly moved in a different direction that says, perhaps, that we are too reliant on these optics. While it could be said that these optics do improve many aspects of shooting, they are not the answer when the cash-generating power of simple nostalgia is concerned. The old carry handle guns almost disappeared for a stretch of five or six years with companies across-the-board dropping them by the mid 2010s. Today, we are seeing a huge comeback in their popularity. Function is not driving this—the idea of the good ol’ days is driving this.

What’s a ‘Retro’ Gun?

An interesting topic to consider when entering the “retro” market is that it’s largely just cosmetic. Retro is a style, an aesthetic, and not necessarily a 1:1 complete clone of a gun made in the past. A large reason for this distinction is that we don’t use the same tooling and machines as we used to even a couple of decades ago. What we have right now is completely modern guns being made on completely modern machines to simply appear as older models.

retro-ar15-1911-2
The MAC JSOC 1911 and Brownells M16A1 Dissipator give a truly retro vibe. Knife by Winkler Knives, sheath by TKC.

Think about it: It’s something of a true regression that we’re using this advanced technology to turn out products with often less capability than what could be made.

Indeed, this is truly a fashion trend, but one that’s not likely to die anytime soon. The past 5 years have been glorious for resurrecting these old styles, with companies like Brownells going as far as to recreate in-spirit copies of the entire family of early AR derivatives, including the original AR-10 and most pre-A1 M16 variants. Re-releases of known vintage classics, such as the Colt Python and the return of storied names like H&R to the rifle scene, have helped fuel the hype.

But it should be noted that not even the Colts are true copies of the old guns, and they are made on modern equipment … and much stronger as a result.

Keeping things simple but taking advantage of modern technology has shown many shooters just how advanced the old timers were. Eighties-style 1911s are the rage now, and many shooters who are jumping in find that the 1911 is just fine without light rails or night sights, and it works like a dream with a simple adjustable rear sight and funneled magwell. These lightly customized guns are making their way back into public consciousness even when lacking all the modern bells and whistles. What makes this time great for the retro scene is that we get to have it all: Many of these guns during their time were problematic in regard to reliable performance and good mags.

1911-rear-sight
Retro features can be as simple as the type of rear sight and serrations cut into a slide.

Take for example the AR. That rifle system was trouble from the start, and it took some years to get it right. However, you wouldn’t want to be seen shooting some of the old, slow-twist barrels today when we have such an abundance of 62- and 77-grain ammo. The smart companies aren’t making 1:1 copies; instead, they’re working with modern twist rates and even applying thought to the near-copies of historical designs.

For instance, the custom 16-inch Dissipator build featured in this article comes from my own workbench and has a Brownells receiver set and a 1:8-inch twist barrel. Using iron sights and an in-spirit suppressor setup, it produces groups of just 2 inches at 100 yards off the bench using many varieties of ammo. The barrel flat-out shoots and has a chrome-lined Wylde chamber, making it suitable for whatever you want to feed it.

I snuck in a Trijicon night sight for the front post, and the internals are all Geissele with a National Match trigger to boot. The carbine is also decked out in some OD green accessories that, while not totally correct, do at least give off that “jungle” vibe. I never get asked about my other carbines. This one, well … it turns heads.

Retro theme guns are just hard to ignore.

AR15-lower-reciever
Modern triggers are incredible. This carbine has all Geissele internals.

The Ordnance Ordeal

You’ll notice that there are few—if any—retro guns that are showing up on shelves today in unique chamberings. For the most part, these guns are tearing up the market because they’re additions to an existing system. If it’s chambered in 7.62/.308, 5.56, 9mm, 10mm, .45 ACP or 12 gauge, it will have no problem selling. A big reason why most of these guns died off was changing consumer and military demands about features, but today we see that as long as the style meets the expectation of caliber, it will sell just fine.

Standardized components and replacement parts are also important, and it’s much easier to keep a retro-style gun shooting if it can be made from off-the-shelf parts or have a degree of interchangeability with existing platforms. The carbine in this article is a completely modern gun that can fire any modern 5.56/.223 ammo, as well as accept any Q-style suppressor.

Fully reproduced vintage guns are harder sells. There’s the possibility we may see newly made M1 Garand rifles at some point, but for that to be feasible for the modern shooter it would need to be able to fire standard .30-06 loads, not special ones for the Garand as we must use today in these old warhorses. Fulton Armory does a great job rebuilding the M1 rifle with mostly modern parts and barrels, and adjustable gas system parts do exist to allow standard-pressure loads.

retro-guns-m14-garand
Fulton Armory M14 and M1 Garand rifles are the kings of retro. If you want the absolute best, most accurate retro rifles, there’s no other place to go. Custom options are available. Axe by Winkler Knives.

However, I can’t see a 1:1 modern M1 rifle being a success … even with the retro market the way it is now. If there was a mind to the future, it would be made for .308 and 6.5 Creedmoor with no attempt to completely duplicate the historical firearm. We see this with the current attempts to reproduce the Nazi STG-44: At least two companies attempting to make versions of this legendary rifle are offering it in 5.56, .300 BLK, 7.62×39 and the original 8x33mm … but unless we see sudden interest in a cartridge that was essentially killed off in 1945, most buyers will be getting this gun in a modern chambering.

Would I want an STG-44 in a modern chambering, or an M1 in 6.5 CM? Sure, why not?

Looking Cool is 90 Percent of Being Cool

A big segment missing from the market today is truly retro accessories. Retro optics are not easy to come by, and many competitive shooting organizations allow a range of optics for their Vintage Sniper and other types of matches. While the guns can be made immediately available and based on proven modern designs, optics, slings and other accessories are much harder to find and often struggle as a result.

The guns have stuck with us, but nobody pines for the good old days of fogged tubes and broken crosshairs. The retro flavor of any rifle is ruined with modern accessories, and a tactical optic would look out of place on a retro M40 USMC build. However it’s a custom proposition to have a scope made that resembles the original in size and color, making it an expensive option for less performance than a modern scope has to offer.

Reproduction retro slings and mag pouches are sometimes able to come by easily, but unless you’re looking for WWI or WWII era items, you’re going to be relatively limited in terms of support gear. Most of the surplus gear has dried up today, and it’s been a good 20 years since the classic Vietnam-era nylon gear disappeared. Early War on Terror gear can still be found, but it’s usually in sorry condition.

The thing about this type of gear is that it is fabric, and it falls apart with time, where the guns from the era tend to last longer.

Modern gear systems are far more customizable and allow for end-use upgrades, making for a longer life cycle. Sadly, there isn’t much available for replica support gear from the 1960s-’80s era to go with your retro rifles. Back in this time, a sling and perhaps a mag pouch were all that was commonly attached to rifles. Taped-up grips and painted insignias/slogans are technically period correct, but that always has a way of looking iffy in terms of appearance.

retro-guns-AR15-1911

For pistols, you’re in luck: The only real retro accessory—aside from a Hawaiian shirt—are shoulder holsters, which are still in common production from many companies. It’s easier than ever to get your Magnum, PI on … unless you can’t grow that mustache, in which case just say you’re a Miami Vice fan and get a 10mm.

Retro accessories will probably always be hard to come by, but remember it’s more of a look than anything else. If it looks cool, well … that’s about all you need to worry about.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Retro AR Stuff:

Stag Pursuit Bolt Action Review: Hunting For The Next Level

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Decked out with premium components, the Pursuit ups the game for hunting rifles.

Stag Arms is known for its AR-style rifles. Lots of them—available in both right- and left-handed configurations. But times are changing at the Wyoming-based manufacturer.

Pushing into the hunting market, the company has set aside gas impingement and turned its attention to a more traditional system: bolt-actions. The result is the Pursuit Bolt Gun. It’s a marked break from the same-old, same-old at Stag and hunting rifle-making in general.

Decked out with premium parts, engineered to connect with vitals at a country mile, the rifle is situated at the vanguard of new precision hunters. And Stag brings it in at a price so nearly any hunter—with a little savings—can consider adding one to his gun safe.

Stag Pursuit on shooting mat
Outfitted with a SIG Whiskey 4 5-20x50mm, the rifle proved formidable.

Having handled the prototype at the 2023 SHOT Show, I couldn't wait to get one to the range for live fire. Finally getting the opportunity a year later, I have to say that the Pursuit was well worth the wait.

Stag Pursuit Bolt Action Specs

  • Made In America?: Yes
  • Action Material: 416 Stainless Steel
  • Action Footprint: Remington 700 SA
  • Barrel Contour: Spiral Fluted Sporter
  • Barrel Material: 416 Stainless Steel
  • Finish: Blac Cerakote
  • Scope Base: 20 MOA Biased 1913 Rail
  • Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
  • Barrel Length: 20 inches
  • Twist Rate: 1:8
  • Thread Pitch: 5/8×24 RH
  • Trigger: Trigger Tech Primary – Adjustable 1.5lbs-4.0lbs, Single Stage
  • Stock: Fully Adjustable Stag Arms Hybrid Hunter, Tan
  • Magazine: AICS/AIAW
  • Weight: 8 pounds, 12 ounces (striped and unloaded)
  • MSRP: $1,899

Getting In On The Action

For anyone paying attention, there’s been a ton of buzz around another bolt-action as of late—the Aero Precision Solus. We did a hands-on review of the Solus, well worth the read. A sister company to Stag, there are a ton of similarities between the Aero rifle and Pursuit. Chief among these is the rifle’s actions.

Stag Pursuit action
The Pursuit's action features a number of high-end features, not among the least the ability to accept Savage small shank barrels or shouldered Zermatt Origin pre-fit barrels. Oh, yeah, check out that 60-degree bolt throw–fast and makes room for larger optics.

First off, and perhaps most importantly, the push-feed action has a Remington 700 footprint. Given this is the most common dimension in the bolt-action world, jumping chassis or stocks are a snap, as are trigger upgrades.

The bolt is a full-diameter three-lug design that has come into prominence in the past decade or so. Not only does this style of bolt keep production costs down, without compromising strength, it comes with some added benefits. Highlighting these is the bolt’s 60-degree throw, which makes it fast as well as allowing plenty of room for larger optics.

Interestingly, the bolt-head is interchangeable, though Stag does not offer any stand-alone components. It’s outfitted with dual ejectors that kicks the brass like nobody's business and all of it is made of stainless steel

Stag bolt head
The dual ejectors really kick the brass on the Pursuit's three-lug bolt.

Perhaps, best of all, the action accepts Savage small shank barrels or shouldered Zermatt Origin pre-fit barrels. This, combined with the interchangeable bolt heads gives the Pursuit system a ton of flexibility, allowing barrel and caliber swaps without the need for a gunsmith.

Essentially, this adds up to a list of custom-action features found on an off-the-rack rifle action.

Barrel

Stag turned to another in-house partner to create the Pursuit’s barrel—Ballistic Advantage (it too is under the Aero banner). BA has more than earned its reputation for creating precision barrels and has come up with a solid system for the Stag rifle. The rifle I tested was a 6.5 Creedmoor and was outfitted with a 20-inch barrel; though, Stag optimized the length to the cartridge, with the .308 model coming with an 18-inch fire tube and the 6.5 PRC with a 22-inch barrel.

Across the board the BA barrels are machined from 416 stainless steel, Cerakote finished and spiral fluted. This final feature reduces some weight from the overall platform and creates more surface area, so the barrel disperses heat quickly. Finishing it all off, Stag threads the muzzle 5/8-24 so it's ready to accept an aftermarket brake or suppressor.

Stock

The Stag Pursuit uses a chassis system, but it has a unique twist. There is the chassis proper, but then it has two independent stock pieces—the fore and butt. At SHOT, the Stag representative told me the company would offer multiple stocking systems, but this has yet to manifest itself on the company’s website.

Push pin
Interestingly, the butt is held on via an AR-style push pin.

The fore of the gun has a flat ample base that keeps it rooted when shooting off a support. Even so, I found it manageable off-hand, though perhaps not so much as a traditional sporter hunting rifle (more on that in a bit).

The Pursuit Bolt Gun doesn’t lack in tripod and bipod mounting options up front. In addition to M-LOK sections, the fore also boasts a half ARCA rail and a Picatinny rail spigot that juts out the front. The spigot not only gives excellent leverage when using a bi/tripod, but it also keeps the accessory well out of the way of your hand if you need to use it on the fore.

The buttstock is fully adjustable for length-of-pull and cheek rise. The LOP system uses spacers, personally not my favorite way of going about things, but an understandable way of pinching pennies. The comb adjusts via a tension screw near the rear of the butt.

The butt is also nicely hollowed out and comes with a detachable bag hook, I like the idea of this for competition. However, I found that the lightweight stock material and svelteness of the butt tended to make the rifle front heavy.

Pursuit broken down
The ability to remove the butt makes transport of the rifle simpler.

Interestingly, the butt attaches via an AR-style pin and comes off the chassis quickly and easily. This feature is especially nice when transporting the gun and space-savings are at a premium.

A final note on the stock, there are ample quick detach nodes on the fore and butt—six total, three on each section. Though I didn’t incorporate a sling to the test rifle I worked with I appreciated the additions, making the carry system very customizable.

Other Notables

The Pursuit Bolt Gun is aimed at accuracy and Stag put in a trigger to aid it in this mission. A single-stage TriggerTech Primary trigger is the order of the day, featuring a wonderfully comfortable flat-faced shoe. I didn’t have to mess with the switch out of the box, with the trigger breaking at right around 2.9 ounces consistently. Furthermore, Stag did its thinking when it designed the Pursuit for hunting, incorporating an oversized trigger guard, ample enough for a gloved finger.

The rifle feeds off AICS/AW-style magazines and Stag simplifies reloads considerably with a large ambidextrous release paddle at the front of the trigger guard. It also does the same on manipulating the bolt, including an oversized tactical-style handle.

Stag Pursuit At The Range

I put 240 rounds down range with the Stag Pursuit Bolt Gun and walked away thoroughly impressed. First off, AmmoToGo.com provided the ammunition for this review, so a big thank you to them.

I left the rifle fairly stock out of the box, only topping it with a SIG Whiskey4 5-20x50mm scope and slapping an MDT CKYE-POD Lightweight bipod to the Picatinny spigot. I’ll admit the support was a bit of overkill for the hunting rifle, yet still a workable choice—particularly for anyone who might consider the rifle for NRL Hunter-style competitions.

Trigger Tech trigger
The Trigger Tech flat-faced trigger and consistant break adds to the package.

The Whiskey4 was a perfect match for the Pursuit, a hunting optic but one with refined upgrades for long-range engagements with game. Not to mention, its ample magnification and crystal-clear glass ensured the rifle could perform up to its billing.

And the Pursuit more than did. Through three different loads—Winchester 125-grain HP Target & Practice, Hornady 129-grain SP American Whitetail and Sellier & Bellot 140-grain FMJ BT—shooting four groups of five with each ammo type at 100 yards — the bolt gun acquitted itself well. One might even say phenomenally.

First off, shooting groups of five offers more validity to a rifle's true performance. Three-shot groups aren’t statistically significant and nearly any modern rifle can achieve MOA results at this standard.

With the rifle averaging .937-inch groups across the three brands, it’s safe to say the Pursuit knocked it out of the park. Especially heartening, it played well with the Hornady hunting ammunition, which produced the best single group of the day—.331 inches. However, it performed best overall shooting Winchester, with an impressive .744 inch four-group average.

LoadMuzzle Velocity (FPS)Muzzle Energy (FT-LBS)Group Size (Inches)
Winchester 125-grain HP Target & Practice2,8502,254.744
Hornady 129-grain SP American Whitetail2,8202,277.927
Sellier & Bellot 140-grain FMJ BT2,6582,2021.139
Average.937
Accuracy was determined by firing four groups of five with each load from prone on bipods at 100 yards.

Impressions

The rifle was extremely pleasant to shoot supported from the prone position and the CKYE-POD more than did its job. The bolt was silky smooth cycling without an iota of rattle when moving down the raceway. Furthermore, I genuinely believe the TriggerTech trigger enhances the rifle’s overall performance.

First off, I found it very consistent in its break allowing for an exceptionally smooth squeeze. Additionally, its flat shoe makes repeated finger placement easily achieved, making it an amazingly comfortable switch to run.

Picatinny spigot
Plan on using one of the Pursuit's many bi/tripod attachments, because the gun is heftier than most hunting rifles.

The rifle’s hefty, more than 9 pounds loaded and with a scope. But this weight ate up recoil and allowed me to track my shots to the target. However, the Pursuit’s weight is a double-edged sword.

While it’s manageable to shoot offhand, I’m not going to say it’s the most pleasant due to its load. If I were to take this in the field, I believe I would invest in a solid tripod to shoot off—at least a very stout shooting stick.

The Pursuit’s weight also concerned me about plain old carry burden. I hunt a lot of mule deer and generally average close to 10 miles of hiking throughout a hunt to get a shot. My shoulder throbbed with the thought of humping this gun that distance.

Yet, when you’re shooting sub-MOA groups consistently with a hunting rifle, you have a lot of incentive to man up and tote the gun.

Parting Shot

I like the Pursuit Bolt Gun… a lot. It’s comfortable, consistent and above all accurate. You can’t ask for much more. Hunting rifles have improved by leaps and bounds in the past 20 years, yet Stag proves there is still room to grow in this market.

I perhaps don’t recommend the gun as a starter for first-time hunters—you’re better off spending less and investing in learning woodcraft. But for those who hunt wide-open spaces and want reassurance a long-range attempt will come in on a once-in-a-lifetime buck or are looking for a solid competition rifle, well one thing is certain… the Pursuit is on!

Pros

  • Very Accurate
  • Excellent Trigger
  • Smooth Action
  • Very Flexible Platform

Cons

  • Heavy

Pursuit Bolt Action Deals

Sportsman's Warehouse$1,600Gun Price Check
Cabela's$1,600Gun Price Check
Palmetto State Armory$1,600Gun Price Check

More Hunting Rifle Reviews:

Hardware Talk: Stan Chen Custom 1911 Parts

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We take a look at Stan Chen Customs’ excellent aftermarket 1911 thumb safeties.

It’s easy to become a snob in this business. There are many truly good products, but by the same measure, there can’t be too many. I’ve known Stan Chen for (mumble, mumble, how many years?) a good long time, and he never ceases to amaze me.

He just sent me some of his thumb safeties—and wow. OK, so you want a safety on your 1911, but which one? How big, what shape, what need?

Stan makes three; they’re all stainless, and they’re all perfect.

You’ve got the “baby bear,” which is the short, narrow, thumb safety for deep concealment.

If you have bigger hands or less need of deep concealment, then the “mama” safety—the longer and wider one, but not too long or wide—will serve you perfectly.

And then, for those who don’t worry about concealment or have learned to dress around the gun and want all the leverage they can get, there’s the “papa” safety—longer, wider but not lower. (Not a ’49 Hudson, so to speak. It’s an inside joke.) Open carry, competition, or just “I want a big safety.”

stan-chen-1911-thumb-safety
The Stan Chen Custom thumb safeties come in two steels, blue and stainless, and three sizes. One of these will be perfect for you.

All three are de-horned, so there are no sharp edges or corners to bite or gnaw your hands. They are all deeply grooved on top, so you will have full purchase to press them off when the noisy times commence. With the deep grooving, those of you who are doing it properly, that is, your thumb riding on the safety when firing, will not have to worry about your thumb slipping off during recoil.

And they are, after being machined, bead-blasted so they don’t show the toolmarks (not that Stan would leave any) and will blend in with any finish except a polished stainless or nickel 1911. (Who does that?)

And those of you who have had an opportunity to wrestle with various 1911s will appreciate this: The detent angles and engagement surfaces have been designed and engineered so it clicks on and off cleanly and precisely. No squish, no “is it off or on?” where is the lever riding—Stan won’t have it otherwise.

stan-chen-custom-1911-safety
The thumb safeties are precisely machined, ergonomically correct, aggressively grooved and bead-blasted for a final finish. No bites, nibbles or sharp edges to cut you.

They do require fitting, because there is no such thing as a drop-in thumb safety on a 1911. And since you are springing for top-end parts, you might want to practice on a lesser thumb safety before touching a file to a Stan Chen Custom part.

If stainless isn’t your thing, or you have a blued 1911 and don’t want the contrasting finish, of course Stan makes them in blued steel. C’mon, get real. The safeties, like all the other Stan Chen Custom parts, are made in-house by Stan or an assistant who has been trained by Stan. Stan doesn’t send things out or have subcontractors and thus doesn’t have to gauge everything nor negotiate “good enough” specs and dimensions. It’s right or it doesn’t get packaged and shipped.

Quality doesn’t come cheap, but remember the old adage, “Buy right, cry once.” At $75 to $80 each, you could buy any of a wide selection of thumb safeties for less … even half that. And after you’ve fitted it, then de-horned it and adjusted the up-and-down engagement, the saved money will be nothing but a memory, replaced by the recollection of the hassle of refining your “inexpensive” part.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


Raise Your 1911 IQ:

A History of The 1911

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We take a deeper look at the history of the 1911, tracking its journey from the mind of John Browning to its place today as the most iconic American handgun ever made.

When the late physicist Stephen Hawking was working on his book, A Brief History of Time, his publisher told him that each equation he used would cut the book sales in half. He rolled the dice and risked it, including just one equation. The book was a success, and when it came time to update it to a second edition, he included a second equation. I’m no Hawking, but I will resist putting in equations unless necessary. And I’ll try to be brief.

You may hear 1911 fans talk about “Saint John” or “The Mormon Genius.” The period we’re looking at here is the last decade of the 19th century. Smokeless powder was still new but was around long enough that gunmakers were now comfortable with it. A self-loading pistol would be the hot new property to make some lucky somebody rich. The bolt-action rifle had been perfected (several times, in fact). While the double-action revolver was a good thing, Smith & Wesson had revealed in 1898 the frame that would become the K-Frame and the .38 Special to go with it—a self-loading pistol would be a real money-maker.

gunsmithing-the-1911
This is an excerpt from Gunsmithing the 1911: The Bench Manual, available now at GunDigestStore.com.

The only problem was design. And the designers of the age were stuck in the “receiver and breechblock” paradigm. The exemplar here would be the Luger, which was a receiver with a barrel screwed into it, just like rifles, and used a breechblock that cycled inside of the receiver. Another was the Mauser Broomhandle, the C96. Again, a barrel in a receiver and a cyclical breechblock. The difference is that the Luger breechblock locks itself, and the C96 locks to the lower frame.

Along came John Moses Browning. He had been designing rifles and shotguns for Winchester for 15 years, and his latest was a self-loading shotgun. He wanted to make some real money with this one and spurned the customary process of a flat fee from Winchester for the design. He wanted royalties, a piece of the action. Winchester declined (one of the stupidest decisions ever made in the history of, well, history), so Browning headed off to Belgium, after several other problems, for a meeting with the new firm of Fabrique Nationale. Having fulfilled its Belgian Army rifle contract, FN needed new products and customers. Browning arranged for them to make his shotgun, which he would purchase for export to the U.S. and which FN could manufacture and sell in Europe.

Browning also had a self-loading pistol design, the FN1900, which FN executives fell all over themselves to acquire. Browning had been working on it for a while, and it was a transitional design—a kinda-sorta receiver-and-breech system. The barrel was screwed into the frame, but the breech looked like a slide, and it was blowback, so there was no need to lock the mechanism. It was chambered in a new cartridge, the .32 ACP, which Browning designed for the pistol. It was flat, compact, lightweight, reliable, and accurate, and, in 1900, no one sneered at the .32 as a defensive cartridge. It sold like hotcakes. FN made and sold a million of them in the next 12 years. The sales of the FN1900 slowed down mainly because Browning himself came up with better designs in short order.

history-of-the-1911-FN1900
The FN1900 is the pistol that saved Fabrique Nationale from bankruptcy and established John Moses Browning as a pistol and rifle designer. He even developed the cartridge for it, the .32 Auto. No design aspect of this pistol made it into the 1911.

But, the 1900 was already an obsolete design even before the first one left the Liege factory. Browning was also working with Colt, for which he had designed a new approach to pistol mechanisms: the slide enclosing a barrel and the slide and barrel lock to each other, not to the frame or receiver. The Colt 1900 (yes, two Browning pistols, each called the 1900 by two different manufacturers, in different calibers. Browning was a busy and prolific designer.)

The Colt 1900 and its successors appear odd to us. Browning had ideas about what worked, but the end-users had their own. Things like a safety that was the rear sight and had to be pushed to permit firing didn’t go over well. And that brings us to the reason for many of the details on the 1911 that we see today: the U.S. Cavalry. The Cavalry was the premier arm of land militaries in all armies of the period. They were the paratroopers, special ops, SEALs, Rangers and LRRPs of their day, all rolled into one. And they used pistols. Oh, they had rifles, but a pistol and a saber (or sabre) were the classic arms of a cavalryman. And while the Colt 1900 showed significant promise, there were things about it that they did not like.

First, the cartridge. In 1900, the .38 Auto was a hot number. A 130-grain bullet at 1,100 fps was plenty good enough for people, but cavalry had to stop horses. So, it had to be a .45, or they would not buy it. Second, many functions of the Colt 1900 required two-handed operation. So Browning, in the next decade, would change, alter, redesign, and ditch whatever he must to use a .45 cartridge (and stand up to hard use and long service life) and make it as much as possible a one-handed pistol. That’s why all of the controls on a 1911 pistol can be managed with one hand: your firing hand. Safety on and off, magazine drop, slide release­—they take one hand. To load it took two, but hey, there were limits even for Browning.

He did all this design work at a time when the average man stood 5 feet 8 inches tall, and the word “ergonomic” hadn’t been coined, yet he was a master of ergonomics. And, like the FN1900, the resulting 1911 was flat, powerful, accurate, reliable, durable and sold like hotcakes.

Much like the original 1900, the first 1911 had some design quirks. Bill Laughridge, owner of Cylinder & Slide, went to the trouble in the early 21st century of recreating the exact design of the first-production 1911, in the details before the various changes were made, as a centennial model. He tracked down as many un-molested original pistols as possible from the first production run and made exact replicas. These were beautiful pistols, pistols that were maddening in some regards. I tested one, and he asked me not to take the magazine catch assembly apart. “No one has ever managed to take one apart and reassemble it without scratching the finish,” he said. And a beautiful, mirror-finish blue job it was, I might add, so I did not take it apart.

One aspect of Browning’s design genius is that the grips aside, the 1911 is not held together by screws, pins, or other fasteners. Instead, he used interlocking assemblies, which lock each other into a mechanism and require a specific sequence to assemble or disassemble. That’s part of what we’ll be covering in this book.

With the manufacturing, assembly, and maintenance details taken care of, we entered World War I, and Colt made as many 1911 pistols as possible. Springfield Armory (the government arsenal, not the later company) also produced pistols. Post-war, the Army wanted changes based on feedback and use in The Great War. Those changes resulted in the 1911A1, which included larger sights (still minuscule by today’s standards), a grip safety tang and hammer spur combo that didn’t bite, and an arched mainspring housing.

Leading up to WWII, the government actually had some foresight and engaged the services of a few companies to let them learn how to make 1911A1s “just in case.” Just in case quickly turned into “make them now, as many as you can” and they made millions.

history-of-the-1911-singer
Even the Singer Sewing Machine Company got into the act in WWII, doing a test run of 1911A1s, all 500 of them. Finding one of these is like getting a winning lottery ticket.

One detail about the 1911 that might interest Glock fans is that parts interchangeability was paramount to the companies producing 1911A1s for the WWII effort. Government inspectors would look over pistols as they were being made to ensure quality. Each lot of 5,000 handguns had a certain number test-fired to more than the “magazine’s worth of ammo to make sure it works” level. One in each lot was fired a whole lot more than that, and if it failed, the entire lot would be rejected, reworked, and tested again. And, at regular intervals, representatives of each company would meet and bring a box of regular production pistols with them. They would each disassemble a pistol and toss all the parts from each manufacturer’s pistol into bins. Then, the handguns would be assembled by those present, who grabbed a random part from the bin until the samples were all back together again. The resulting pistols would be inspected and test-fired. If a pistol failed, an immediate analysis would determine which part was the problem, who made it, and the problem corrected.

history-of-the-1911-switch-and-signal
Everyone got into the act when it came time to tool up for World War II. It was patriotic to shoulder part of the war effort, and Union Switch & Signal did a contract run of 1911A1s. They are now rarities of the first order, as Union only made 55,000.

Once the war ended, and we had more 1911A1s than we’d need for decades, all the institutional knowledge vanished. The Army immediately started looking for a replacement, which would not be concluded for over 40 years. (And this would not be the only time it would take decades to replace something. The Army is still looking for a replacement for the Browning .50 machine gun, which first saw service in 1921. My prediction is that it never will.)

During the ’50s and ’60s, the only place the 1911A1 saw use (well, in the holsters of GIs and Marines, but pistols in military service are way down on the list of essential items, except to the people who are getting shot at) was in Bullseye competition. As a general rule, if a tool is used in one environment for one purpose, it will be gradually or not-so-gradually modified by the users until it is suited only to that use. A Bullseye 1911, while accurate, wasn’t useful elsewhere. And with no other design driver, the choices were USGI, box-stock as it were, or a 1911/1911A1 set up for Bullseye. Then, the IPSC (International Practical Shooting Confederation) came along. The idea that a pistol, especially a 1911, could be both accurate and reliable was new to many. But it could be built that way. You might snicker, but in the early days of IPSC competition, the standard of reliability we strove for was no more than one malfunction per thousand rounds fired. Part of the learning process was the pistol, part the magazine and part the ammunition, but we could exceed that level with work. And at that level of reliability, the 1911 delivered Bullseye-level accuracy.

IPSC-1911-accuracy-target
This is the kind of accuracy you could expect from an IPSC gun of the 1980s (and this is a Brownells’ recreation of the same) when fed the classic IPSC load of a 200-grain L-SWC and 5.8 grains of WWS-231. This was a limited run, so don’t look for it in Brownells’ catalog.

A brief aside: It is now common for 1911s to be far better than that old-school “one malf (malfunction) in a thousand” reliability standard. These days, you might never see a 1911-induced malfunction shooting a current-production pistol. And it is typical for them to be quite accurate. Les Baer guarantees his pistols will shoot no larger than 3 inches at 50 yards, and you can pay a bit extra to get 1.5 inches at 50 yards accuracy.

One obstacle to that performance level was Colt itself, which spent much of the 20th century in dire economic straits. It just couldn’t get a break between two World Wars (and the miscalculations involved in over-working machinery, etc.), economic downturns and at least one factory flooding. For the last half of the 20th century, Colt was owned by one or another conglomerate that viewed it as a cash cow, and thus, it was always strapped for new machines, designs and labor. My Colt Series 70 is an example.

In 1981, I attended the Targetworld National Championships. In those early years, IPSC was like drag racing, and if your match could get enough people from enough states, you’d call it a national championship. By looking over the sign-up sheet and seeing who was where (the list of top shooters was small enough that we all knew each other, not that I was a “top shooter” in 1981), I managed to place high enough as a Pro shooter to win a gun. That prize of a new-in-the-box Colt Series 70 was magnificent. And it was unreliable. One in a thousand? It wouldn’t go a full magazine without a malfunction. And it wouldn’t “malf” the same way twice in a row. In desperation, I learned gunsmithing to make my pistol work properly. And that was the case for all of us back then. By the early ’80s, the 1911s to build on were GI-standard surplus 1911/1911A1s or Colts. Both needed work to be competitive; they just needed different kinds of work.

Brit-commando-1911
After the 1911 and A1 were issued, they were everywhere. Here, Private Stack of 9 Commando, at Anzio, is all set with his.

And that is the source of the urban myths—myths now, back then, truths—about the 1911 that “It needs a gunsmith to be reliable” or “You can have reliability or accuracy, but not both.” Today, no one makes an unreliable 1911 simply because they would be out of business quickly if they did.

Into the 1980s, the standard 1911 for IPSC was a 5-inch .45 ACP. And the Power Factor for Major was 185. (For example, a 230-grain round nose going 805 fps is now called a +P load.) But two competitors, Robbie Leatham and Brian Enos, changed that. Just as we were all learning about the advantages of a “comp,” a compensator, they also switched to .38 Super. Comps work by re-directing muzzle gases. The Super runs at a higher pressure, and higher pressure gases are better than lower for comps. In short order, we had all switched over to .38 Supers; then they got red-dot optics, and then a few years later, we swapped our single-stack red-dot guns for hi-cap Supers with red-dots. By 1995, you were uncompetitive if you were not running a red-dot hi-cap Super with 28-round magazines. And the howls of “not real-world” were deafening. (I can’t help but look around now at hi-cap, comped 9mm pistols for everyday carry, with slide-mounted red dots, and smile a little.)

IPSC-1911-red-dot
The evolution of the IPSC gun happened so fast at times that it was hard to keep up. In the fall of 1989, this was a top-end competition gun without the optics. A year later, even with the optic, it was obsolete for winning matches.

The early 1990s saw a new 1911 design with a plastic grip and a steel rail section made by STI. Now, it is named Staccato, and there are other makers of the same approach, from overseas and here in the U.S. by Springfield Armory.

Look around you today and see how many shooters carrying a pistol for defense (and law enforcement agencies) have a red-dot optic on a 9mm holding at least 17 rounds, and with some straight from the factory compensated, and consider again the guy in your gun club who says “competition isn’t real” and “IPSC will get you killed.” No, competition pushes the boundaries. Determining if the changes benefit you in a defensive role is up to you.

Simultaneously, the equipment categories in IPSC (by then, the USPSA or the United States Practical Shooting Association) fragmented. The origins of “run what you brung” had proven what won, but not everyone wanted to be shooting a Super. So, competition added equipment divisions. And there, the .40 S&W proved to be—for various, arcane reasons—the alternative to the Super in some divisions. The Production Division allowed 9mm pistols to compete and grow until IPSC/USPSA, the home of the .45 1911, had most competitors shooting a 9mm pistol that wasn’t a 1911. Such is life.

In the mid-1980s, Springfield Armory saved us from Colt by offering 1911A1s. At first, they were parts kits, everything you needed to assemble a 1911A1 in the box, but no tools, assembly required, or batteries were included. I won a bunch, bought them, and built them. Springfield Armory then offered assembled pistols and sponsored competitions. Other companies entered the competition field and offered their guns, gear and equipment—so much so that you could shoot in a local club’s annual championship and win a Springfield. If you practiced and were good, you could win enough loot to build a better gun, load enough ammo to get better, and then really get a leg up on the competition.

As did Colt and Smith & Wesson, Springfield sponsored a team, and smaller, specialized companies would sponsor individual shooters. The era of the professional practical shooter was born. The top shooters could travel the circuit, compete, win, get paid, and, on the side, be paid to teach other shooters. Of course, this was a gypsy life, spending most of the year on the road, and divorces and near-divorces were common.

By the mid-to-late 1980s, it looked like the days of the 1911 were over. Oh, it would still maintain a presence in Bullseye, at least as long as those using it were still competing. But the 1980s saw the rise of the “Wonder-nine” high-capacity 9mm pistols with a double-action firing mechanism and holding many rounds. A Browning Hi Power didn’t much threaten a 1911 with 7+1 of .45 ACP with 13+1 rounds of 9mm. But a G17 with 17+1? An S&W M59, a Sig P226, a Beretta 92, and more to come? With the adoption of the M9 for military use and police acceptance of 9mms, ammo makers were turning to make hollow-points that actually expanded.

The 1911’s days were numbered. But they were saved by, of all people, Bill Clinton. The Assault Weapons Ban of 1994 vilified some features of the AR-15 and made magazines of over 10 rounds verboten. This did two things: First, tell Americans they can’t have something and many will ask, ”Where can I buy one?” By the time the ban expired 10 years later, there were markedly more AR-15 manufacturers than before.

And in the pistolverse, people rightly figured, “If I can only have 10 rounds, I want 10 big ones, not  smaller ones.” A G17 with a 10-round magazine was just stupid. And at the height of all this, Glock 17-round magazines were offered for as high as $150 per. (No, I’m not kidding or making it up. I don’t know if any sold, but that was the asking price.) The sales of 1911s jumped.

CMP-1911
If you get lucky and score a CMP pistol, it will be rebuilt like this Range-Grade 1911A1. The happy owner has kitted it out with the right web gear, holster and ammo box.

At the beginning of the 21st century, Kimber decided (after various business changes) to get into the 1911 market. But, rather than make stock guns—as Springfield had when it entered—Kimber went semi-custom. It could exploit modern manufacturing techniques and build a 1911 with mid-level custom details as a production item and sell for less than you’d pay a custom pistolsmith to upgrade your box-stock pistol. Similarly, the Dan Wesson company jumped in and offered semi-custom features on production guns. Rock Island Arsenal brought parts and pistols from the Philippines, and its catalog is full of options. The newest entrants are the Turkish makers, such as Tisas, which make custom-featured 1911s at excellent prices compared to what we paid for those as extras “back in the day.”

Rock-Island-Armory-1911
The price of USGI 1911s has gotten so high that 1911 makers are now producing GI clones. This Rock Island Armory only needs some USGI plastic grips to be a close enough copy that you’d have to look at the slide to see the difference.

Now, a couple of decades later, if you want a USGI-level pistol, you must hunt down that variant in a catalog of 1911s because everything else is now semi-custom or higher-featured. Of course, at the moment, the CMP (Civilian Marksmanship Program) is selling off the 1911s and 1911A1s it has, so if you get lucky and score one, you can get a real-deal GI pistol. It won’t be new; it will be rebuilt, but it will also cost you less than an identical one would require in gunsmithing should you win one at an auction. Today, the details you can get out of the box on newly made pistols are often better than custom-built ones in the old days and for less cost. And yet, anything made by the hand of man is imperfect. So, your 1911 might need some work. Or you want something a bit different from what the maker offers. Or, you have worked yours hard, and it needs some TLC. Maybe you want to know how things work, what cleaning entails, or what a given part does in the scheme of things.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest's Gunsmithing the 1911: The Bench Manual.


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First Look: Heritage Mfg. Roscoe Revolvers

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Heritage Manufacturing has just announced the Roscoe, a classic .38 Spl revolver available with two barrel length options.

The popularity of snub-nose revolvers as concealed carry guns has dwindled over the decades, but it never died out. That said, most available today have modern features, finishes and aesthetics. For those with a penchant for the classics, especially anyone who wants to emulate the noir detectives of old, Cerakote and rubber grips just won’t cut it. With a marked lack of affordable, retro carry revolvers on the market, Heritage Manufacturing is aiming to fill the void with the Roscoe.

heritage-roscoe-snub

Made in Brazil, the Heritage Roscoe is a 5-shot .38 Special +P DA/SA revolver that features all the classic style of the guns of yesteryear. Namely, an attractive glossy, polished black finish and old-school wood grips. They’re available with either a 3-inch or a 2-inch barrel as well. Other features of the Roscoe revolver worth mentioning include the fixed serrated blade front sight, fixed rear sight and the inclusion of a transfer bar safety.

heritage-roscoe-3

Heritage Manufacturing said this about the new revolvers:

Inspired by the hard-boiled detectives battling mob crime, the movie sleuths, and the real-world cops of yesteryears, the Heritage Roscoe pays homage to these legends with its classic design and rugged performance. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the Roscoe features a deep glossy polished black finish, reminiscent of the iconic firearms of the era.

Both the 2-inch and the 3-inch models of the Heritage Roscoe are available now and they share an MSRP of $363.99.

For more information, visit heritagemfg.com.


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Defensive Handgunning: Balancing Accuracy, Power & Speed

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When it comes to guns, everything is a tradeoff. With defensive handguns, that means balancing accuracy, power and speed.

The USPSA (United States Practical Shooting Association) represents more than 37,000 members and more than 400 affiliated clubs. It’s the largest practical shooting association in the United States, and it’s the second largest region within IPSC (International Practical Shooting Confederation), which was founded in part by Jeff Copper.

Collectively, IPSC and USPSA have provided a test bed for equipment and techniques, some of which are now standard for police and military training. There are three letters displayed on the USPSA logo—DVC—and they represent the foundational guide for both organizations.

DVC are initials for the Latin words, Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas, which mean accuracy, power and speed. The acronym was popularized by former Marine, firearms trainer and gun writer, Jeff Cooper, who also founded the American Pistol Institute, now known as Gunsite Academy. Maybe to the annoyance of some, I routinely reference Cooper in this column. But, like Robbie Barrkman, who was the first gunsmith at Gunsite and founder of Robar, I believe we can link everything related to the defensive handgun today to the work and philosophy of Cooper. Yes, there have been advancements, but Cooper laid the foundation.

As established by Cooper, DVC is a triangular approach to the application of the defensive handgun. It’s a triangle that every shooter must balance so that they can deliver a sufficient level of power, accurately and as fast as possible. In an article written by Jeremy D. Clough, he compares DVC to a quote from Confederate General Nathan Bedford Forrest who famously said, “Get there the firstest with the mostest.”

This is a great analogy and good advice, but DVC, as it relates to the use of a defensive handgun, will be different for everyone. What’s often overlooked is that you must balance DVC to best suit you.

Diligentia = Accuracy

defensive-handgun-balance-accuracy-target
Your accuracy is a skill driven and largely dependent on how fast you shoot.

Of the three elements of DVC, the concept of accuracy is the least negotiable. As it relates to the defensive handgun, it varies from a hit in the lethal area of the target to a hit center mass of the available target. If you must shoot to save your life, bullets placed at the center of the lethal area will most often provide the fastest relief. Short of that, any hit is better than no hit, and a hit located center mass of the available target is the easiest to obtain.

Vis = Power

380-Auto-9mm-Luger-357-Mag-40-Smith-Wesson-45-Auto-44-Magnum
Power is a product of the cartridge you choose, and it will impact your speed and accuracy. (Left to right: .380 Auto, 9mm Luger, .357 Magnum, .40 Smith & Wesson, .45 Auto and .44 Magnum.)

Cooper felt appropriate defensive handgun power started with the .45 Auto. However, not all shooters are capable of wielding a pistol chambered in .45 Auto efficiently and effectively. For some, the handgun is too big; for others, it recoils too much—and with today’s miniature pistols that are so popular, many can find it impossible to control. This is why the 9mm Luger is so popular: Most shooters can manage it well, either in a duty or ultra-compact pistols.

The point of this element of the DVC triangle is that you need enough power to get the job done. To incorporate these cartridge/power differences, IPSC applies points to hits based on a power factor rating of the cartridge being fired. You are left with logic when it comes to the power decision.

Celeritas = Speed

Gunsite-1911-shooting-1

This doesn’t apply to the speed of the bullet, but to the speed with which you can obtain your hits. It is highly dependent on shooter skill as well as the shooter’s ability to effectively control the power level of the handgun—for subsequent shots/hits—in the size handgun they have chosen to use.

Finding Your Balance

There’s no shortage of self-defense shooting drills for measuring your abilities and skill. I’ve championed several in these pages, such as the Forty-Five Drill and the Step Back Drill. These and others are a measure of accuracy (diligentia) and speed (celeritas). If you can shoot them to standard, you can assume a reasonable level of proficiency.

The unmeasured element here is power (vis). All these drills are easier to shot with a .22 rimfire pistol than they are with a .357 Magnum. You must balance your DVC triangle with the most powerful handgun you can use to obtain good hits—quickly. Since we cannot sacrifice accuracy, it mostly becomes a balance of speed and power.

For example, I’ve found that I can shoot a 5-inch 1911 about 8 percent faster than I can shoot a 4-inch 1911, and about 19 percent faster than I can shoot a 3-inch 1911. Similarly, I can shoot a 4-inch 1911 in 9mm about 14 percent faster than I can shoot a 4-inch 1911 in .45 Auto, but the 9mm does not hit as hard.

The .357 Magnum has a great reputation as a stopper of bad men and gives an edge to the power side of the DVC triangle. But its increased recoil negatively impacts the speed side. For me, I’m about 8 percent slower with a .357 than I am with a .45 Auto. Is that extra power worth the reduction in speed with which I can fire accurate follow-up shots? In my opinion it’s not, and this illustrates the DVC decisions we must all make.

DVC vs. EDC

defensive-handgun-balance-edc
Balancing DVC is important, but no more than important than finding the right equilibrium between DVC and EDC.

Shooting drills are a great tool to help us make these comparisons and decisions, but DVC cannot measure concealability and carry comfort. No matter how well you shoot whatever gun you might have, if you cannot carry it concealed and comfortably, you probably won’t, and that’s when your insurance policy becomes more important than DVC.

The DVC versus EDC (everyday carry) is another balance that must be found. Like with balancing DVC, the DVC/EDC balance will vary for everyone. Seek guidance, conduct experiments and make your own choices based on your findings. After all, it’s your life that will hang in the balance you find.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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Refining Accuracy: Understanding Minute of Angle

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Math is hard, and MOA can be confusing, so here we deep dive into the minute of angle concept to help refine your long-range accuracy.

MOA, or minute(s) of angle, is a standardized measurement of 1.047 inches at 100 yards that's used as a benchmark for measuring how precise a firearm (typically a rifle) is capable of shooting.  

The idea is that one minute of angle, 1 MOA, is a benchmark standard of how tight a rifle can group shots. The smaller the groups, the more precise the weapon is. Rifles that can produce groups smaller than 1 minute of angle are referred to as sub-MOA. 

While MOA is something most shooters are certainly aware of, it’s usually not something they’re terribly familiar with either unless they take long-range shooting seriously. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that, as it’s not something that most casual shooters regularly need to use, but it’s time to change that if you have any interest in honing your accuracy at extended ranges.

So, let’s dive into exactly what minute of angle is both practically and mathematically, how to use it and what you need to know to avoid common mistakes when dialing in your scope.

Montana-Junction-group-minute-of-angle
A sub-MOA group produced by a Montana Rifle Company Junction in 6.5 CM.

What Is A Minute Of Angle?  

First things first, the definition of a minute of angle is an angular measurement equal to 1/60th of a degree. In shooting MOA is handy, because it's used as a measurement of mechanical accuracy. In other words, it's a way of expressing how small a shot group a rifle or other firearm is capable of shooting in perfect conditions.  

MOA became a popular way to measure accuracy in the U.S. since 100 yards was a common increment of distance on American rifle ranges. If a rifle could produce a 1-inch group of shots at that distance, aka a 1-MOA group, it was considered an accurate gun. MOA was also a natural fit for American shooters given our use of the imperial system and familiarity with measurements in inches, although it also means that we typically round the true measurement of 1.047 inches down to just 1 inch. More on that later.

MOA matters because it describes a potential shot group size relative to distance. 1 MOA at 100 yards is roughly 1 inch, but it's roughly 5 inches at 500 yards and 0.25 inches at 25 yards. In other words, MOA is really good for predicting shot dispersion at different ranges.  

CCW Red Dot Pie MOA
This graphic of a pistol and pie slice helps visualize how a constant MOA value gets larger the farther the muzzle is from the target. This is why a small misalignment at close range can result in major deviations at distance.

As an angular measurement, MOA is also a scalable measurement of windage and elevation adjustments, as you eventually must account for the wind pushing the bullet off target and the bullet naturally dropping over distance.  

That makes it not only useful as a unit of measurement for how large your shot group will be but also for scope adjustments or holdover calculations that you may need to make to account for bullet drop and windage.  

Okay, so MOA is clearly very useful for certain aspects of shooting, but why are we measuring angles in minutes at all?

MOA Vs. MRADs

That all said, minute of angle isn't the only system for measuring the length of an angle proportional to distance. The other is milliradians, also called mils, MRADs or milli-rads. These days MRAD scopes are nearly as (if not more) popular as MOA models.

One radian is an angle subtended from the center of a circle that intercepts an arc equal in length to the radius of the circle. A milliradian is 1/1000th of a radian, which is useful for measuring small angles at a distance.  

GLx 4-16×50 FFP ACSS Athena reticle
The Illuminated ACSS Athena BPR MIL Reticle for the GLx 4-16×50 FFP riflescope.

Just like minutes of angle, an MRAD works out to the size of an arc, in this case the size of the shot group or area that you intend the bullet to land in, proportional to the distance. 1 MRAD is 1 centimeter at 100 meters or 1 meter at 1,000 meters.

Milliradians are technically also easier to deal with mathematically compared to arcminutes and arcseconds since they are base 10 rather than base 60, but that is generally not an issue that shooters will have to deal with. MRAD scopes are growing in popularity, but MOA is still arguably more intuitive to understand for American shooters. Whichever style you decide to use is up to you.

With all that out of the way, how do you put this all to use in the field?  

Using MOA For Marksmanship 

Understanding minutes of angle became very useful for marksmanship following the advent of scope reticles with MOA hash marks. Before then, scopes on the consumer market typically only featured simple crosshairs.

MOA-reticle-FFP
A Maven MOA reticle in an FFP scope, as seen at 2.5x and 15x. Note the size difference.

Of course, getting the full benefits of understanding MOA requires the shooter to put in work before hitting the field hunting or going to a long-range shooting match. We'll get to that in a moment.  

We understand that MOA is an area in proportion to distance: roughly 1 inch at 100 yards, roughly 2 inches at 200 yards and so on. The stadia lines of a riflescope are in MOA intervals, such as 2 MOA or 4 MOA, and the manufacturer will provide these details in the owner's manual.  

This comes in handy when you know the range of your target and the ballistics of your particular rifle and load. If you know how many inches your bullet will drop at that range, you can convert it to MOA and use the reticle’s stadia lines to hold in the right spot to compensate for the drop.   

If you also know your holds for windage, you can use the hash marks on the horizontal reticle line, as well.  

If your scope has exposed/adjustable turrets, you could also make click adjustments on the fly rather than holding over the target using the stadia lines.  

scope-turret-dial-MOA

Another benefit of reticles of this style is that you can use the lines for range estimation if you know the size of your target.

Even so, you’ll need to put in some work of your own before taking full advantage of these features and techniques.

That’s because in order to make the proper adjustments or calculate the correct holdover, you need to know how your gun and your load correspond to the reticle in your scope. It is very, very rarely that they will perfectly coincide unless you have a scope that is calibrated for a specific load at a specific velocity 

For instance, a Trijicon ACOG's reticle is calibrated for 62-grain 5.56mm at the velocities you get from a 20-inch barrel. Put an ACOG on a carbine, and the reticle isn't going to match the point of impact because you've changed the velocity and therefore the trajectory.  

Ergo, you have to work up the data on your gun, your load, and how it relates to the reticle in your scope to really be able to put this all together.  

Other Factors To Consider When Refining Accuracy

There's the size of the group measured in MOA, but then there's how you produce a group of that size which is another matter entirely.  

Bench-shooting

Mechanical accuracy, meaning the precision that your gun is capable of when all potential complications (the shooter causes most) are removed, is the result of balancing an equation of multiple factors.  

How your gun is made, the ammunition you're shooting, the ambient conditions and so on all play a role.  

A bolt-action rifle may not be glass- and pillar-bedded, the twist rate might be wrong for the bullet weight you're using (77-grain 5.56 in a 1:12 twist rifle, for instance) and maybe you just can't properly press that terrible trigger correctly. 

An increase in humidity or a decrease in temperature can have an effect as well. The rule of thumb is a 0.5- to 1-MOA increase in drop for every 20 degrees Fahrenheit of temperature difference from zeroing. In other words, if you zero at 70 degrees and your bullet drops 4 MOA at 400 yards, expect a 4.5- to 5-MOA drop if you're shooting when it's 50 degrees.  

Ammunition can vary from lot to lot, especially if a manufacturer changes powder or primers. That isn't an if that's a when. Propellant formulas change all the time, and you won't know when it's happened until you see results on paper.  

1-4-moa-group
This 1.4-MOA group shows that there's still potentially room for improvement. Either with the shooter's skills, the rifle or the ammo.

The point is that the accuracy your rifle is capable of in MOA is one thing on paper, but what it's capable of doing once you're on the range or in the field are two entirely different things.  

That's not even touching on mistakes shooters make. Those are just some of the things that can hinder precision without any interference from the person behind the gun.  

So, while a proper understanding of how minute of angle plays into measuring accuracy is an important skill, it’s not the most important factor. You are. Once you develop the foundational skills needed to shoot for small groups at long ranges and have the utmost familiarity with your specific shooting setup, that’s the time to start capitalizing on MOA, holdovers and dialing in your scope. Once armed with the knowledge of exactly how your bullet and reticle interact, you can really start shrinking your groups and stretching your rifle’s legs.


More On Long-Range Shooting

Ammo Brief: .44 Auto Mag

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We take a quick look at .44 Auto Mag, a cartridge with a short and stormy career.

Introduced late in 1971, the .44 Auto Mag cartridge was developed for the Auto Mag pistol designed by the late Harry Sanford of Pasadena, California. The gun was also made and marketed for a few years by High Standard. The cartridge is made by cutting off .30-06 or .308 Winchester cases to a length of 1.30 inches, inside reaming the case neck to accept 0.429-inch bullets and trimming to a length of 1.298 inches. The newly formed case is then loaded with 0.429-inch jacketed bullets of 200 to 240 grains.

Cartridges-of-the-World-16th-edition-550×725 (2)
This is an excerpt from Cartridge's Of The World, available now at GunDigestStore.com.

For a time, .44 Auto Mag cases were made in Mexico, by Cartuchos Deportivos Mexico and headstamped CDM. Loaded ammunition was later offered by Norma of Sweden. A few custom ammo makers furnished loaded rounds. Dies are made by RCBS. The .44 Auto Mag cartridge was used only in the Auto Mag semi-auto pistol, which is no longer in production.

General Comments

The Auto Mag semi-auto pistol operates on the short recoil principle, with a six-lug, front-locking rotary bolt. Made almost entirely of stainless-steel, it has a 6.5-inch barrel, an overall length of 11.5 inches, and weighs about 3.5 pounds. It was the most powerful commercial semi-auto pistol manufactured at that time. When loaded to maximum, a 200-grain bullet can be pushed at over 1,500 fps, and the 240-grain to 1,400 fps.

.44 Auto Mag Loading Data

Bullet Grains/TypePowderGrainsVelocityEnergySource
180 JHP240025.01,6001,024Sierra
200 JHPW29626.51,500999Hornady
240 JHPW29624.01,350972Sierra, Hornady
240 JHPH11023.01,4001,045Hornady

Unfortunately, the Auto Mag pistol had a rather short and stormy career marked by more than its share of manufacturing, marketing and mechanical troubles. The .44 Auto Mag pistol was developed primarily as a sporting gun. It has been used to take all kinds of big game, including deer, elk, moose and Kodiak bear. It’s in the same class as the .44 Magnum.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest's Cartridge's Of The World.


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Self-Defense: Garage Invasion & Excessive Force

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We discuss whether this garage invasion incident was justified self-defense or an example of excessive force.

In a video circulating on social media, a startling scene unfolds as a homeowner faces off against intruders in his own garage. The footage captures the tension of a life-threatening encounter, raising crucial questions about the boundaries of self-defense. The video is available for you to watch at ForgeOfFreedom.com, but I’ll describe it and analyze it here as well because there’s a lot to be learned.

The Situation

The video begins with a man pulling his car into his garage, only to find himself under threat as the garage door begins to close: A hand appears under the garage door just before it closes, halting the door’s descent, and soon three individuals enter the garage. The “leader,” armed with a gun, walks right up to the driver-side door and opens it. The driver of the car, presumably whose house this is, starts shooting—and shoots the guy who just opened the car door (with a gun in his hand).

As soon as the driver starts shooting, as you might expect, the other two guys flee—the two accomplices turn around and are quickly gone. The main perpetrator who opened the door departs after a brief pause: He seems to have been shot three or four times by the number of muzzle flashes seen.

Then, the driver jumps out of his car and chases the fleeing perpetrators as they run out of the garage. The driver continues to shoot as he runs to the edge of his garage, while the perpetrators flee.

So Many Questions

The pivotal question arises: Was the homeowner justified in his use of deadly force for self-defense? The answer is yes … and no.

Examining the sequence of events through the lens of the law provides some clarity amid the chaos.

The initial confrontation, wherein the armed intruder attempts to enter the homeowner’s vehicle, falls squarely within the realm of justifiable self-defense. Clearly, the three men entered the garage with the intent of at least carjacking the driver. We don’t know what else they might have wanted to do.

Maybe it was going to be a home invasion, too. We don’t know.

Indiana law, like many states, permits the use of deadly force to prevent a forcible felony, such as the carjacking of an occupied motor vehicle. By firing upon the armed assailant, the homeowner exercised his right to protect himself.

However, the subsequent shots fired as the fleeing felons exit the garage require closer scrutiny. Some might believe that Castle Doctrine applies here. While the Castle Doctrine affords individuals the right to defend themselves in their dwelling with deadly force without an obligation to retreat, its application to a garage is unclear. You can use reasonable force, including deadly force, if it’s necessary to prevent or terminate an unlawful entry into your dwelling. Let’s assume, for the sake of discussion, that your garage is part of your dwelling. There’s a good chance that courts would say so, especially if it’s an attached garage.

The key word here is “necessary.” Is the use of force necessary to prevent or terminate an unlawful entry when the perpetrators are fleeing? If they’ve turned and ran, is any force necessary to terminate the unlawful entry? No. The attempted carjacking or home invasion is over. They’re running away. You’re not preventing the carjacking if you’re shooting at someone running away, especially once they’ve exited the garage.

So Many Factors

Now, am I saying that all of these guys would get prosecuted? No, not necessarily. A prosecutor might decide they’re simply not going to bring charges. But technically, the shooting while the perpetrators are running away is not justified. Irrespective of the potential application of Castle Doctrine, once the intruders retreat from the premises, the necessity of further force ends. Pursuing and shooting at individuals in flight exceeds the bounds of lawful self-defense.

Each shot fired carries the burden of justification. While rapid succession may be warranted in the heat of the moment, the cessation of the threat mandates an end to lethal force. As the intruders exit the garage and flee, the imminent danger ends, rendering continued gunfire legally questionable. While the initial response aligns with legal principles of self-defense, the subsequent pursuit was not clearly justifiable.

Some may have no qualms with the response, but going too far in the eyes of the law places your future freedom in jeopardy. While the homeowner may avoid charges based on extenuating circumstances, the legality of his actions merits examination. Understanding the nuances of self-defense law empowers individuals to navigate threatening situations with clarity and restraint.

This video serves as a sobering reminder of the complexities inherent in self-defense encounters. By dissecting the legal framework surrounding the incident, we gain insight into the rights and responsibilities of individuals in defending themselves and their property. As discussions surrounding self-defense continue, informed dialogue rooted in legal understanding remains essential.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Knowledge For The Armed Citizen:

Holland’s Super 30: The .300 H&H Magnum

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A closer look at .300 H&H Magnum, a cartridge that’s anything but old and in the way.

We tracked the herd of eland in nearly a full circle, working the wind to make sure our presence wouldn’t be detected. My guide—Professional Hunter Maré van der Merwe—spread the sticks in the fading light, offering me a quartering shot at the bull with impossibly long horns. I broke the trigger of the Colt Coltsman, and the resulting whine of a bullet told us both I’d missed.

“That bullet hit a branch, but that bull will come out to the right, just there.” Maré hadn’t finished the last word when the bull stood quartering at 340 yards, pausing just long enough to look back in our direction. The second bullet did not miss. It was the culmination of a great Namibian safari, and that bull’s horns taped over 38 inches.

That rifle’s barrel was marked simply: .300 MAGNUM. Produced in 1959, there was no commercially loaded .300 Magnum (the .300 Winchester Magnum wouldn’t hit scene for 4 more years) other than the .300 Holland & Holland Belted Magnum, known in other circles as the Super .30, but best known as here as the .300 H&H Magnum.

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The author’s current .300 Holland, a late ’80s push-feed post-64 Winchester Model 70 that loves the longer projectiles. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

CIP (the Commission internationale permanente pour l’épreuve des armes à feu portatives) does recognize a slight dimensional variation between the .300 H&H Magnum and the Super 30, but I highly doubt you’ll be finding any Super 30 ammunition these days, so I wouldn’t be overly concerned about it.

The Family Tree

The .300 H&H was the fourth cartridge officially released by the London firm of Holland & Holland to feature a belt of brass just ahead of the extractor groove, following the .400/.375 (Velopex), the .375 H&H Magnum, and the .275 H&H Magnum, though all were preceded by the 41 Roper cartridge of the late 19th century. Where the .375 and .275 saw daylight in 1912, Holland’s Super 30 was released in 1925, “between the Wars” as they say.

Assuredly designed to take advantage of the huge success of the .30-06 Springfield—the military cartridge had, by then, long proved itself in the game fields—the .300 H&H Magnum would best the velocities generated by the American warhorse by 150 to 200 fps.

Like the .375 H&H that came before it, the .300 H&H came in two variants: belted and rimmed (though the United Kingdom will refer to this design as “flanged”), with the former being designed for the bolt-action repeating rifles, and the latter optimized for the single-shot and double rifles. The belted variety is, far and away, the most popular. While we’ll touch on the flanged cartridge in a bit, I’ll focus on the belted version.

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Mrs. Suzanne Massaro developed a penchant for the .300 H&H Magnum, using it to take this wildebeest bull in Namibia. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

Buckle Up

Sharing the same 0.532-inch case head diameter and 0.534-inch belt diameter as its more popular older brother, the .300 H&H maintains both the same case length (2.850 inches) and cartridge overall length (3.600 inches) as the .375 H&H. The slight 8½-degree shoulder gives a smooth and easy feel to both feeding and extraction, as headspace duties are neatly handled by the belt. That belt was, and remains, an excellent means of giving the definitive headspacing qualities of the rimmed cartridge designs, without any of the problems associated with stacking a rimmed cartridge in a box magazine or getting a rimmed cartridge to properly feed from that magazine style.

Most modern derivatives of the H&H case—such as the .300 Winchester Magnum, 7mm Remington Magnum, .338 Winchester Magnum and .300 Weatherby Magnum—still use the belt for headspacing, but a good many reloaders use the more prominent shoulder of these cartridges once they’ve been fired and resized. For the straight-walled cartridges like the .458 Winchester Magnum, .458 Lott and .470 Capstick, as well as those with a slight shoulder like the .300 H&H and .375 H&H, the belt is an aid (however, the .404 Jeffery and a handful of other cartridges make do with a shoulder of 8-10 degrees).

And in comparison to the .300 Winchester Magnum, which has been criticized for having a very short neck (0.264 inch), the .300 H&H Magnum offers plenty of neck tension, with its neck measuring 0.371 inch, well in excess of the desired one-caliber in length.

The length of the .300 H&H case is probably a derivative of the long, spaghetti-like structure of Cordite—the propellant so popular in Great Britain in the early 20th century—and how well that fit in the .375 H&H design. By 1925, if H&H weren’t already using stick powder, the transition wasn’t far off, but the case design stuck around.

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An old and heavy-horned hartebeest bull taken at over 300 yards in the then-drought-stricken Namibia, with a single shot from the .300 H&H Magnum. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

The .300 H&H requires a magnum-length action, which has always been more expensive to produce and was historically offered in smaller numbers. Considering the speed race in the cartridge world was just building a head of steam—Winchester had released the radical .270 Winchester in the same year, in their Model 54 rifle—the .300 H&H’s velocity offered a respectable jump above the .300 Savage, .30-30 Winchester, 3-40 Krag and even the .30’06 Springfield.

And, of course, then as it is now, there is the exotic factor: In comparison to the majority of the American cartridges, the .300 H&H just looked plain ol’ cool.

In the Wild and at the Range

The .300 H&H quickly garnered a great reputation among those headed to Africa and India. John “Pondoro” Taylor wrote in his excellent African Rifles and Cartridges, “Everything the .30-06 will do is done better by the .300 Magnum—as is only to be expected.” Pondoro would go on to opine that India offered the longest shooting in the (then) British Empire, indicating an appreciation for the .300’s flat trajectory on a number of the Himalayan species, but equally approving of the 220- and 225-grain loads offered by Peters and Remington, respectively.

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The author took this 38-inch eland bull in Namibia with Jamy Traut Safaris; a single Federal Trophy Bonded Tip bullet at 340 yards put this bull in the salt. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

And therein lies the rub: One of the biggest factors in the successes of the .375 and .300 H&H Magnum cartridges was not necessarily the British rifles and ammunition, but the fact that the American rifle and ammunition manufacturers embraced them both. The pair was among the initial offerings in Winchester’s excellent Model 70—released in 1936—and ammunition for both was readily available.

This fact also explains why the .375 H&H became the go-to cartridge for traveling sportsmen headed to the Dark Continent: Not only is it effective in its own right, but American rifles and ammunition were made long after the British stuff began drying up.

Simply put, a great British cartridge was put into American mass production.

But it wasn’t only the Eastern Hemisphere where the .300 H&H showed its potential; here in North America, Ben C. Comfort used the cartridge to win the Wimbledon Cup in 1935, with a Griffin & Howe rifle based on a Remington 30S action. The .300 H&H also played a big role in the development of the premium bullet market, as John Nosler carried one on the fateful Canadian moose hunt where his projectiles failed to penetrate on a mud-caked bull. And it was the case upon which Roy Weatherby would base his lineup of speedy cartridges, cementing his place in firearms history. American author Robert Ruark would also go on to use the .300 H&H as the rifle choice for his fictional Professional Hunter Brain McDermott in his gripping Uhuru.

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The author’s Winchester Model 70 absolutely loves the Nosler Custom 200-grain AccuBond load, printing ¾-MOA groups. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

I believe that despite many sparks in the early 20th century, the .300 H&H Magnum is the point where the speed game actually caught fire. Unlike Savage’s .250-3000, the .300 H&H Magnum has the bullet weight to be a true all-around big-game cartridge, and is versatile enough to be taken around the globe. It’ll push a 180-grain bullet to a muzzle velocity of 2,875 fps in factory loads, making it “enough gun” for the vast majority of big game pursued, including the great bears of the north and all but the largest and most dangerous game of Africa.

I’ve owned two rifles chambered for this excellent cartridge: the aforementioned Colt Coltsman that accompanied me to Namibia (and is now in the possession of a dear friend), and currently a post-64 Winchester Model 70 from the early ’80s, with one of the prettiest factory walnut stocks I’ve ever seen.

The M70 shows a preference for longer projectiles, with more bearing surface; this is contradictory to my experiences handloading for more than a few .300 H&H rifles. Generally speaking, the .300 Holland is one of the few .300 Magnums that doesn’t mind the light-for-caliber projectiles, but my own gives the best accuracy with the 180- and 200-grain projectiles, and I’m OK with that. The Federal 180-Trophy Bonded Tip load and Nosler’s 200-grain AccuBond load were among the top performers in this rifle; either of those bullets would handle just about anything I’d ask a .300 Magnum to do. With a 200-yard zero, you’ll see these bullets strike about 7 inches low at 300 yards and roughly 22 inches low at 400 yards.

In comparison to other .30-calibers, I feel the .300 H&H Magnum does better the performance than that of the 30-06 Springfield, though perhaps not enough that the average hunter would truly take notice. It is a bit slower than the .300 Winchester Magnum and .300 Winchester Short Magnum, and certainly slower than the .300 Weatherby Magnum and .300 PRC. But the .300 H&H is probably the easiest on the shoulder of all the .300 Magnums. And in the hands of good reloader, it can be brought down to .30-06 or even .308 Winchester velocities without too much trouble, making it a great choice for deer on the back forty, or it can be revved up to nip at the heels of the .300 Winchester Magnum, which is a good place to be as well.

Is it efficient? In comparison to the .300 WSM and .300 Winchester Magnum—which can deliver slightly better ballistics in a short-action and long-action rifle, respectively—probably not. But shooting a .300 H&H Magnum isn’t about the ultimate in efficiency; it has its own pedigree, and well, a cool factor to it. It’s an inexorable tie to a time long gone now, invoking the sentiments of safari in wild places, or long treks into the wilds of Canada, Alaska or those remote parts of the American West. I feel pretty confident saying that the belted cases—while they are not going away anytime soon—have seen their day, and we probably won’t see any new cartridges featuring the H&H belt anytime soon. However, the .300 H&H Magnum remains cooler than the other side of the pillow, at least to my eyes.

Ammunition Availability

Yes, there’s an elephant in the room: The glaring fact of the matter is that the .300 H&H has been pushed off the stage by newer, more efficient and better marketed .30-caliber cartridges. Each year, rifles and ammunition become increasingly scarce, and it will be just a matter of time before handloading is the only means of keeping the old girl alive. In fact, as of the time of this writing, the only factory loaded ammunition even cataloged is listed as “unavailable,” with no production information available. So if you want the .300 Holland experience, you either find older stashes of ammunition or handload your own.

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The author’s Winchester M70 shows a definite preference for the longer bullets, with increased bearing surface, like the 200-grain Federal Terminal Ascent and Nosler AccuBond. Handloading will be the best way to keep your .300 H&H active in the field and at the range. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

Get a good set of dies—Redding dies are my favorite—and a good supply of brass, and you’ll be in business for life. I like Norma brass, and I like Nosler brass as well, though the situation with the .300 H&H is quickly becoming “any port in a storm.” But given my druthers, it’s Norma and Nosler for me, and I’ll happily take Federal or Hornady.

The powder charges of the .300 H&H Magnum warrant the use of a large rifle magnum primer; my favorite is the Federal Gold Medal Match GM215M. Powders in the range of IMR 4350 and 4831, Reloder 19 and 22, Hodgdon’s H4350, H380 and H4831SC are all good choices; the .300 Holland likes powders in the slow-but-not-too-slow department. My experiences show that charges that nearly fill the case give the most uniform results.

Good ol’ round and heavy bullets, like the Hornady 220-grain round-nose Interlock, are just as good as they were a century ago, especially at closer ranges; don’t overlook them for larger species in a woods or bushveld situation.

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Hornady .300 H&H ammo in their custom line, featuring the now-discontinued InterBond bullet. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

I’ve championed a number of relatively obscure cartridges over the years, with some being on the verge of extinction. The .318 Westley Richards, .404 Jeffery and .33 Winchester each were at one point in time a sound choice with a decent following. Will we be seeing any new developments for the .300 Holland & Holland anytime soon? Sadly, I doubt it—though there are enough rifles out there chambered for it that perhaps Hornady or Federal will make another run of quality factory ammunition.

If you enjoy hunting with a cartridge that’s a bit left of center, and something that will cock an eyebrow or two in hunting camp, you could do worse than choosing the .300 H&H Magnum. In the meantime, I’ll invest my time at the reloading bench to keep my Winchester properly fed.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


Raise Your Ammo IQ:

A Tale Of Two Rifles: Maximizing Rifle Accuracy

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We take a look at how to tweak your rifle to maximize its potential for accuracy.

Ten-thousand miles.

That’s how far my rifles must travel before the safari begins. Along the way, they’ll be herded by soulless conveyor belts, bounced off concrete floors and fingered by dubiously qualified “inspectors.” Bag-checking rifles for international travel feels like releasing a kid on a bike without training wheels. Though I expect to re-zero the scopes in Africa, I want to ensure the optics on my rifles are set up correctly before I leave. More importantly, I want to be confident I have the skills to return them to a reliable standard if they arrive with problems.

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Both rifles performed in Africa despite being dropped and dragged along the way.

Courage, Tools and Torque

I teamed up with Caylen Wojcik, founder of Modern Day Rifleman, to coach my optics setup on two rifles I’d take to Africa. A former Marine Scout Sniper, Caylen teaches precision shooting for military, LEO and civilian shooters. He also teaches a precision shooting course for hunters.

Wojcik frequently sees similar optics problems when students dust off their hunting rifles after a long off-season. Luckily, most problems are avoidable or easily correctable with a step-by-step approach and a few simple tools.

“Shooters should not be intimidated by assembling and disassembling their hunting rifles down to their core components,” Wojcik says. “We’re just talking about turning screwdrivers, using a level and being thoughtful about torque adjustments. The key is to understand the goal of each step and be methodical.”

These rifles and their intended application present few unique variables. Both of my rifles are bolt actions and chambered in calibers for African plains game, so nothing “dangerous” or larger than a North American elk. One of my rifles, the Franchi Momentum All Terrain Elite (.308 Win.), is a test rifle, so I can’t make permanent modifications. It’s also new, unassembled and unfired. We’ll focus most of our attention on it.

The other rifle is a scoped and sporterized version of a 117-year-old Swedish Mauser (6.5×55 Swede). I own it, and it was set up and zeroed a few years ago. Though it’s been trapped in my gun safe ever since, the Mauser’s getting the same inspection. For most African hunting scenarios, the shots are from a standing position, supported by shooting sticks, at ranges inside 300 yards. So, we are taking care to get the basics correct, but our process isn’t intended for extreme long-range shooting.

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Indeed, we used simple tools. Though bit shapes and sizes varied between components and manufacturers, the ultimate tasks weren’t more complicated than aligning one part with another and tightening the connecting screws to a prescribed tension. Torque-adjustable screwdrivers or torque-limiting ratchets are outside the basic toolboxes of many shooters, but they shouldn’t be. For a moderate outlay, you can have the same basic gunsmithing tools. “Torque” is an important concept to understand from the start. Torque is force applied in a rotational motion—for our purposes, it’s how hard you tighten a screw into a threaded hole. In standard (not metric) terms, it’s expressed as “inch-pounds.”

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Worth its weight in your checked baggage, the Fix It Sticks “The Works” kit contains bit and torque tools to confirm or return your rifle to the proper specifications.

Why should you care? Because “hand tight” varies from person to person. Rifle and optics screws that are too loose can result in inconsistent accuracy. Overtightened screws can break off in their threads, rendering your rifle unusable and requiring a trip to a gunsmith. Tightening to the factory-prescribed torque values removes the guesswork from optic setup while avoiding costly mistakes.

Tight Action

With any process, you must choose a rational starting point; for bolt-action rifles, it’s the action screws. Action screws, also known as guard screws, hold the barreled action to the stock. There are generally two—one in front and one behind the trigger guard. This junction is the foundation for performance consistency for the rifled action and all the components mounted above it.

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The action screws on this Mauser were loose enough to move with my fingers. A tightening to a uniform 65 inch-pounds resulted in a 0.3 MOA shot group improvement.

Wojcik says more of his marksmanship students arrive with loose action screws than not. “It’s not uncommon for shooters to over-analyze scopes and rings, but they’re shocked when their action screws aren’t even hand-tight,” he says.

Both my rifles had loose action screws … or at least inconsistent torque adjustments. The Mauser’s action screws were so loose I could turn them with a press and turn of my finger into the flathead slots.

We torqued the action screws on both rifles to 65 inch-pounds. Again, using factory torque specs, where possible, is critical. However, they aren’t always available. In the case of a 117-year-old Mauser, the new custom stock was glass-bedded walnut, and I felt it could take the pressure. Was it too much? Time will tell, but I now know exactly how much pressure is on the screws if I want to readjust. After the tightening, the rifle shot groups inside 0.65 MOA, which was a 0.3 MOA improvement over previous groups, so this small adjustment provided an immediate benefit.

A few commonsense principles apply to action screw torque settings in the absence of a factory number. First, metal-on-metal contact points can take more pressure than wood or polymer synthetics. Second, heavier caliber rifles producing greater recoil generally require more torque, so be mindful of the difference between rimfires versus magnums. Finally, when in doubt, call a trained gunsmith and ask for advice.

Ride the Rail

On some rifles, scope bases are metal blocks mounted directly to threaded holes in the receiver or clamped onto a dovetail notch. Such was the case for the Mauser and its Trijicon scope and rings. The Franchi rifle comes with a Picatinny rail common on many new rifles.

“Most Pic rails on new rifles come with oil between the rail and the receiver,” says Wojcik. “I suspect it’s part of the manufacturing process. But fluids are dense under pressure, and I want the parts as flush as possible, so I routinely remove the rail from the rifle and clean the contact surfaces.”

When we removed the Franchi’s rail, it had a line of oil underneath its entire length. So, we cleaned the bottom of the rail and top of the receiver with alcohol and replaced the rail, re-torquing the screws to 25 inch-pounds. For the Mauser, I confirmed the same torque on all its scope base screws.

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Pic rails should be torqued to spec, starting from the center screws and working outward to minimize any minor bends or warps.

Care should be taken when removing Pic rails, especially the long ones like the 10-incher on the Franchi. The screws may be of different lengths or diameters depending on whether they mount to the receiver or the barrel. I usually throw screws and small parts into a magnetic tray, but in this case, I’d recommend you place them thoughtfully so there’s no doubt about how they’re replaced.

There are a few helpful techniques to consider when replacing a Pic rail. First, a bonding agent on the screw threads is a good idea. We used blue Permatex 24010 gel. Second, tighten the screws from the middle to the outside. This will correct for slight warps in the rail. If the rail is noticeably warped or damaged, replace it.

Level to the World

The next step is leveling the rifle and installing the scope rings.

Personal preference varies on the best method to secure a rifle for leveling and scope installation. I’ve found a high-quality bench vise with leather padded jaws is faster and more rigid than purpose-built cradles made from soft plastic. No matter your choice, the following steps are the same.

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“You have to get the rifle level to the world, which means leveling the bore horizontally and ensuring the centerline is square, vertically,” advises Wojcik. “Take your time to get it right, and then lock it in.”

For this task, I chose a Wheeler Professional Reticle Level System that uses a reference and barrel clamp level. The reference level is placed on a flat surface in or around the receiver to level the rifle in the vice. Once the rifle is leveled in the vice, the barrel clamp level is attached and adjusted so that its bubble is centered and matches the reference level. The rifle can now be removed from the vice but quickly replaced and returned to level without starting over. Other, more expensive kits and methods exist, but for our purposes, this system works.   

Next, we attached the ring bases to the Pic rail.

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Torque these screws to the factory specifications. Placement for the rear base should be as far back as possible on a Pic rail mount, and the front base should land on the main tube roughly between the center turret and the objective bell.

Tip: If the bases have flush screws, it makes sense to orient the bases so the screw heads are on the same side as the bolt handle—that way, you don’t have to reach over or move the rifle to make adjustments. For bases with protruding nuts, installing the bases so that the nuts sit on the non-bolt handle side will ensure they don’t come in contact with knuckles when cycling the bolt. It’s a bit more trouble, but your hands will thank you.

With a Pic rail scope base, the mounts should always be pressed forward (toward the muzzle) and flush with the vertical surface of the Pic rail notch. This ensures the rifle’s recoil won’t creep the base forward and change the scope’s orientation with the receiver. If you choose a one-piece mount that combines the bottom scope ring and base, be aware that many are manufactured with a cant (horizontal angle) to give the scope more adjustment range.

Conveniently, the clamshell Vortex rings I’ve chosen for my Steiner scope have the torque specs printed on the parts. A word to the wise on scope ring screws—screw metal quality can vary widely across manufacturers … and even between models. Sadly, this junction, critical to establishing and maintaining accuracy, is often achieved with the cheapest materials bought in mass quantities from the lowest bidder. It’s very common for cheap screws to shear off or warp, even at factory specs.

Consider investing in a variety pack of backup firearm optic screws. For a small investment, you can always use fresh screws when you change mounted optics, and you’ve got backups if one strips, shears or falls through the floorboards. I followed this advice a few years back, and having a variety of spares around saved my bacon at least a dozen times.

Lock in the Glass

Scope ring height and placement are subjective decisions. Rifle design factors such as bolt handle clearance, receiver shape and the stock’s length and comb height combine with human factors like head size and visual acuity to create a complex challenge. Ultimately, shooters should orient the scope according to their physical and visual needs, but here are a few guidelines:

  • Base Placement: Place the rear base as close to the rear of the rail as possible, especially if you have backup iron sights. The front base should land on the uniform section of the tube midway (roughly) between the adjustment turret and where the tube flares into the objective bell.
  • Scope Prep: Wojcik recommends turning the windage and elevation adjustments to their limits in both directions several times before mounting the scope. Especially for new scopes, there is often a spot of grease that may not be uniformly spread over the internal parts. This quick step will spread the lubricant and confirm that no spots bind, limiting the scope’s adjustment range. If your scope adjustments do not turn with light to moderate pressure, don’t mount it—repair or replace it.
  • Scope Placement: Orient the scope so the magnification adjustment ring is over the trigger. Yes, the distance between adjustment rings and the ocular lens varies between scopes, but this is a reliable starting point. Adjust accordingly to your eyes, face and stock length.
  • Eye Relief: Eye relief is the distance between your eye and the ocular lens. To adjust it, tighten the screws on the rear ring just enough to hold the scope loosely in place. At its maximum magnification, move the scope forward and backward until you achieve a comfortable shooting and head position where you can see a full field of view through the optic, free of shadows. Different styles of shooting call for different head orientations on the stock, so I adjusted my eye relief with an upright hunting posture in mind.
  • Leveling the Scope: With your eye relief established, it’s time to take a breath and get patient. This step may take a few tries.

If possible, remove the elevation cap and use the erector screw to level the scope. Why? Though the elevation adjustment cap may seem level and square to the line of the scope, some are not machined to seat squarely. If the elevation turret caps are rounded, leveling becomes a guessing game. The erector screw is a better option if you have it.

Level the scope by sequentially tightening the ring screws in an “X” pattern ending with all screws torqued to spec and a level reticle. Screw tension will move the level’s bubble, but tightening the opposite side of the ring will move it in the opposite direction. This final step requires a methodical give-and-take of tension and adjustment. Be patient, as you might have to start over. Just remember to continue to visually reference the levels on the barrel and scope to guide your adjustments.

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Tighten scope ring screws in an “X” pattern. This step is a bit of a dance to tighten each side to a factory spec and still end up with a level reticle. Be patient, tighten each screw a bit at a time and be prepared to start over.

It took us two tries to get the Franchi assembled and leveled.

The Mauser’s bases and rings received uniform torquing. Thankfully, the adjustments didn’t require re-leveling the scope.

Set Up for Success

Factory torque settings, a clear scope picture and a level reticle will not increase the likelihood of encountering a trophy kudu bull. But, establishing a properly configured rifle and optic, and learning how to correct basic problems, gives you added confidence and a consistent basis to establish your rifle’s best possible zero and, by extension, your most accurate shots on game.

One final note of advice: Take your time with each step. Don’t wait until the night before opening day—get your rifle set up early, zero your optic and spend the extra time confidently practicing, knowing your equipment won’t hold you back.

Both my rifles made it to Africa (and back) without damage. Once in-country, I confirmed the torque on the screws, visually confirmed level reticles and adjusted the zeros to the location’s higher temperature and lower altitude.

I’m not without superstition: I believe Murphy’s Law is stronger in Africa than it is in the States. But because I was ready for him, he took his mischief elsewhere.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Long-Range Accuracy:

Reloading Technique: How To Properly Skin A Cat

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A dissertation on reloading technique and practices.

“What are you doing? I would never run dirty brass though my resizing die!”

Talk to 10 dedicated reloaders, and I’ll wager you get 10 different techniques and opinions, even if the differences are subtle. Is there one proper technique for the process of reloading centerfire rifle and pistol ammunition? There are, after all, myriad tools available to the reloader.

While some are deemed frivolous, others are must-haves. Flip through the front section of almost any worthy reloading manual and you'll find some sort of step-by-step instructions pertaining to the procedure of reloading metallic cartridge ammo.

While those generic instructions are not wrong, somewhere along the line we all develop certain habits and adopt techniques that might work for some … while seeming completely foreign to others. Referring to my opening quote, some folks will run any old dirty piece of brass into a resizing die, while others insist the brass be not only already de-primed, but cleaned, tumbled and polished before it changes shape.

Which is the proper method?

Well, it’ll depend on your personal taste, and how much of a neat freak you are. You certainly shouldn’t put any case with actual dirt on it—say a pickup from the range—into your die, but if there’s some burnt powder residue, it won’t hurt your die, especially if you clean your dies regularly, which I definitely recommend. If the idea still offends you, perhaps the use of a universal de-capping die—one designed for the sole purpose of removing the spent primer—will allow you to clean the case inside and out before resizing it. This does minimize residue and debris in the die, and I do this sometimes, especially when reloading cases that were previously loaded with especially dirty-burning powder.

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How do you prefer to install your primers, from the press or via hand primer? Photo: Massaro Media Group.

Primers can be another hotbed of discussion—whether they’re installed with a hand-priming unit or primed from the press. Some guys demand absolute uniformity in primer-seating depth, while others feel that so long as the primer is seated flush or slightly recessed, all is right in the universe.

Having spent a fair amount of time at the Norma Ammunition plant in Sweden, I've seen the effects of uniformly seated primers—they have special tools to measure the depth of primers before their ammo is sent to the public—and it does make an appreciable difference. Where the precision shooter will be very concerned with this feature, the high-volume loader who knows how to consistently work the handle of Dillon 550 will be perfectly happy with what that excellent machine provides.

Personally, I like to install my primers by hand, as I feel the press can generate too much force at times.

The method of loading powder and seating bullets—whether you charge all the cases in a block and then begin seating projectiles, or charge an individual case and then immediately seat the bullet—is debatable as well. You’ll see photos of large blocks of cases, sometimes a hundred at a time, being charged with powder, each awaiting a turn for its projectile. While I know this system works well for many folks, I've also seen it lead to near-disaster.

If, for example, you were loading for a .300 Weatherby Magnum, the sheer volume of the powder required will easily prevent a double charge; the case simply won’t hold it. But switch to a .357 Magnum, .38 Special or .45 ACP, and it’s a much different story. Not only can all of these cases easily be double charged, but the charge weight may also be so small that a double charge might not be immediately visible.

In this author’s opinion, safety takes precedence over time saved, and my own technique is to charge a case with powder and then immediately seat the projectile. This way I can visually verify that there is no powder (or anything else) in the case before dumping the powder charge, and once installed there is no risk of double charging. Habits are going to form—good or bad—and I always err on the side of caution.

Want to start an argument among reloaders? Ask whether you should weigh every powder charge. Oh, will the sparks fly! “Benchrest shooters load by volume.” “I’ve used a powder thrower since I was a boy.” “Only certain powders will meter properly in those volumetric powder throwers.” “You’re wasting your time weighing every charge; it just isn’t that important.” Some of these statements may be true and applicable, but after spending more than 3 decades handloading the vast majority of my ammunition, in rifle calibers ranging from the .17s up to the .500s, I've found that uniformity leads to consistency, and therefore accuracy.

Just as I wouldn’t want to purchase a box of projectiles only to find the weight varies drastically, I want my powder charges to be as uniform as possible. Weighing each individual charge has given me the best results, and should you have an alternative method that works (and maintains safety), so be it. The modern electronic powder dispensers operate quickly and easily enough to accommodate my reloading style, and I sleep better at night knowing each charge was weighed.

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The progressive presses, like the Dillon 550 shown here, are certainly efficient, but you must give up some of the hands-on methods of reloading. Photo: Massaro Media Group.

I also get many questions about the use of progressive presses, especially regarding the consistency, uniformity and safety. Certainly, the Dillon progressives are at the top of the heap, and the RCBS stuff of late is much better than it ever was, but the fact remains that there are so many operations happening simultaneously that it’s nearly impossible to monitor all at once. Call me a control freak, but I want to have my hands on these operations, so that I can ensure that something hasn’t come out of adjustment—such as the volumetric powder dispenser—and that all the primers are not only present, but seated properly.

Don’t get me wrong: I’ve shot some wonderful ammunition made on a Dillon 550 or 650, but my own personal tastes and preference lean so heavily toward single-stage loading that the Redding T7 turret press is about as far as I feel comfortable going. If you like the idea of a progressive press, and there are many reasons to do so, realize that rigorous inspection of the final product is a fantastic idea; it may save a firearm … or a life.

“You can’t do that.” Sometimes it rings true, and other times we reloaders need to realize there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Reloading:

Taylor’s & Company Announces TC73 9mm Lever-Action Rifle

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Want a lever-action rifle chambered for something a bit more modern? Here we take a peek at Taylor’s & Company’s TC73.

Lever-actions have been the hottest thing in the gun world lately, but Taylor’s & Company’s new TC73 rifle has taken a different approach than most other companies that have taken a crack at the trend. Rather than make a modern, tactical lever-action or just another traditionalist take on the classic design, Taylor’s & Company decided to give the TC73 a 9mm chambering instead.

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Completely made in America, the TC73 is essentially a revamped 1873 chambered for 9mm. It boasts a 10-round magazine, classic looks and a few tasteful modernizations and improvements. Namely, the muzzle is threaded 5/8×24 for mounting suppressors and it has a Taylor Tuned Performance Action that provides a lighter trigger and a smoother lever throw. It also features a white bead front sight, a sporting semi-buckhorn rear sight and a rubber butt pad. As for the rifle’s aesthetics, the steel frame has a beautiful case-colored finish and the stock and forend are American Walnut.

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Compared to the cartridges that lever-actions are traditionally chambered for, the 9mm TC73 brings a lot of versatility to the table. The ammo is incredibly common, comparatively affordable and is available in a wide variety of different loadings spanning range use to serious defensive bullets. The ability to add a suppressor is just the cherry on top.

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If you’re in the market for a classic, stylish lever-action rifle with all the practicality and versatility of 9mm, the Taylor’s & Company TC73 is well worth checking out. MSRP is $2,099.

For more information, please visit taylorsfirearms.com.


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