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Terminal Ballistics: An Excerpt From The Ballistics Handbook

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This excerpt from The Ballistics Handbook provides a general overview and history of terminal ballistics.

That little blob of metal, so content in its metallic case, has been sent screaming down the barrel, spinning until it’s dizzier than a 2-year-old on sugar, sailing through the air faster than, well I was going to say a speeding bullet, but, it’s going pretty damned fast. Then, instantly, violently, the journey ends. At the gun range it just rips paper and meets its untimely demise in a sand bank or dirt berm. Perhaps it smashed through hide, bone and vital tissue, putting dinner on the table for a family all winter. Or maybe it was built like a race car and got to fly long and high, only to end in the sweet ringing of steel. Best of all, that bullet may have saved someone’s life. Whatever the case, the end of a bullet’s life is an important part of our study, or what we call terminal ballistics—what happens when it makes impact.

the-ballistics-handbook-cover
This article is an excerpt from The Ballistics Handbook, an invaluable guide to understanding the various factors that affect bullet flight, from the muzzle to the target.

Whether in a defensive situation or on a dangerous game hunt, there are times when the construction and terminal performance of a bullet means life or death. In the case of hunting bullets, you want a quick, humane kill—after all, the bullet’s job is to reach the vital organs to destroy tissue. No matter how many trajectory charts you’ve memorized, no matter how many lines-per-inch the checkering on your AAA Circassian walnut features, it is the bullet, and only the bullet, that touches a game animal and delivers the death blow.

At this stage of the game you’ve managed to place the shot where it belongs, and now you need to consider what’s going to happen after impact. Will the bullet penetrate sufficiently? Will it expand properly? Was it of suitable construction to handle the task at hand? Did you choose the proper type of bullet to meet the requirements you need? All these questions and more fall under the heading of terminal ballistics.

In this section, the handgun will receive much more attention than it has previously. While the exterior ballistics of handgun bullets aren’t nearly as complex as that of rifles, the terminal ballistics of a handgun are very interesting. Handgun hunting bullets have come an awful long way, and there are some absolutely incredible personal defense choices out there, too. Their performance needs to be analyzed to best choose a handgun caliber, as well as settle some old arguments.

expanded-handgun-bullets
Expanded handgun bullets have come a long way today. All three of these examples exhibit excellent expansion.

Rifle bullets have changed for the better as well, having many new designs available. Some of these designs are a far cry from the cup-and-core bullet of our grandfathers’ era and deliver some outstanding performance, almost forcing us to rethink the old cartridge and caliber recommendations. These innovations implore you to take a new look at how much cartridge/bullet is really needed to get the job done. I am always intrigued about new bullet designs, and I’ve had the opportunity to test some of these around the globe on animals small, medium and large.

There is much demand placed upon the rifle bullets of today. You expect your modern rifle bullet to be a death-ray. If you do our part in holding the rifle on the right spot and squeeze the trigger properly, you expect instantaneous results. The bullet needs to be accurate, retain almost all of its energy downrange, expand well enough to create a huge wound channel, and penetrate deep enough to destroy the vitals from any angle. Oh, and you want it cheap, too! No worries!

Well, the bullets of today can meet most of those parameters, but not all. There are some that will certainly deliver the goods, but the materials and manufacturing costs are higher than the bullets of yesteryear. While some of the tried-and-true hardcast lead and cup-and-core bullets still perform wonderfully in certain situations, there are those times when the cost of a hunt or the scarcity of a coveted tag warrant the investment in the best projectile money can buy, no matter which of the attributes listed above is most important.

The birth of the premium bullet industry hearkens back to 1948 in Canada, when John Nosler experienced terrible bullet failure while trying to relieve a large-bodied moose of its life with a .300 Holland & Holland Magnum. The cup-and-core bullets that Nosler was using simply weren’t strong enough to handle the high impact velocity of the Super .30 and had prematurely expanded on the moose’s shoulder, giving poor penetration. His idea of a dual-core bullet separated by a copper partition really set the hunting world on its ear and created an entire market for premium projectiles. Fast-forward to the 21st century, and you have monometal bullet designs that would certainly make my grandfather cock an eyebrow. Some of these newcomers use a funky sort of nipple at the front end to cause trauma via a cavitation bubble, delivering straight-line penetration and a cylindrical core of trauma. Some designs, like the aforementioned Nosler Partition, have been with us for decades and have their devout followers.

Whatever the case, there is now a proper tool for the job at hand. You, as the hunter, shooter and consumer, need to be honest with yourself about the requirements of your shooting situation to choose a bullet that will give you the results you’re after. We will start the study of terminal ballistics by dealing with a bit of bullet history and how bullet performance so heavily influenced the reputation of the cartridges themselves. We’ll then examine how the projectiles of the 21st century could and should change the way we think about cartridge requirements.  

The History of Terminal Ballistics

The first projectiles for the firearm were round lead balls, slightly smaller than bore diameter, to be “patched” for a tight seal. Lead was the chosen material, not for its durability upon impact, but for its malleability in forming the projectiles. Lead is easy to work and shape, melts at a relatively low temperature and is plentiful. This was perfect for the early users of the cartridge guns, as many firearms were sold with a set of molds of appropriate caliber and bullet weight for that firearm. Think of the buffalo hunters on the Great Plains, hunting all day and sitting by their campfire at night, melting lead and casting their own lead bullets for the next hunt. However, lead has several shortcomings, especially with modern firearms and propellants.

Your goal as a hunter (we’ll get to the self-defense bullets soon enough), is to deliver a quick, humane kill to minimize the suffering of the game animal. For most of your hunting, with the exception of solid bullets or a shot column from a shotgun, you depend on the bullet to create massive hemorrhaging by destroying as much vital tissue as possible. The expansion of a bullet—if it is designed to expand—creates hydraulic shock, which destroys tissue as well. Now, when a material as soft as lead impacts hide, bone and water-rich flesh at an appreciable velocity, you can have very rapid expansion. Your projectile will certainly meet enough resistance to flatten a round ball or rapidly deform the meplat of a lead bullet. So the lead ball or bullet must be of sufficient weight and diameter to properly penetrate into an animal’s vitals in order to guarantee a quick kill, and the velocity must be kept to a reasonable level, say below 2,200 fps. Even then, the bullet can exhibit penetration problems if the shot is too close.

The stories of Frederick Courteney Selous from the late 19th century are illuminating. Selous would hunt elephants with a muzzleloading four-bore rifle stoked with a lead ball weighing 1/4 pound, propelled by over 500 grains of blackpowder. That gives you an idea of how the early projectile directly affected the choice of bore diameter; you simply needed to compensate for a lack of penetration with sheer mass.

At moderate velocity typical of the .30-30 Winchester or .45-70 Government, or most of the classic handgun cartridges like the .38 Special and .45 Colt, a lead projectile will work well, giving a good blend of expansion and penetration. Many of these cartridges are still loaded with lead projectiles today, and they perform superbly. For some of the faster cartridges like the .44 Magnum, lead bullets can be hardened by adding a specific amount of antimony to the molten lead while casting, resulting in a harder alloy and better terminal ballistics.

In light of the velocity increases that smokeless powder brought to the table, there needed to be an advance in the construction of projectiles. It was Lt. Col. Eduard Rubin of Switzerland who, in 1882, had the ingenious idea of jacketing the lead bullets in a layer of copper—a metal hard enough to avoid the issues associated with heavy lead deposits in the barrel, yet soft enough to work perfectly with the steel rifling of the barrel. Rubin completely covered the spitzer projectile, leaving no exposed lead, creating the first “full metal jacket” or FMJ as we all know it today.

full-metal-jacket
The military-approved full metal jacket.

The lead bullets that had previously been used in combat had such a terrible effect on soldier’s bodies. Think about the photos and accounts from the Civil War and how some of those large-caliber lead bullets and balls would not only inflict horrible flesh wounds, but would sometimes tear limbs off at the bone. The advent of the FMJ made total sense as a weapon of war. Indeed, many countries of the world felt that the horrific wounds of injured soldiers could be minimized by the use of the non-expanding projectiles. The Hague Convention of 1899, in Declaration III, specifically prohibited the use of any expanding projectiles in international warfare, though many incorrectly attribute this prohibition to the Geneva Convention. For the record, the United States did not agree to the treaty. This decision included so-called Dum-Dum bullets: those FMJs that had any exposed lead, or a cross-slot cut into the nose for expansion. (An interesting note is that Dum-Dum bullets were named after the British military facility near Dum-Dum, West Bengal, India. It was here that Captain Neville Bertie-Clay developed the Dum-Dum bullet, an expanding projectile designed for the .303 British cartridge, with a radical hollowpoint. The expansion of this bullet could be best described as violent, and I can only imagine the devastating result of using this projectile in combat.)

The result of adding a copper jacket to the traditional lead projectile completely changed the hunting world as well. Not only could these new projectiles be driven to much higher velocity and with fantastic accuracy, but by manipulating the amount of exposed lead at the nose, or meplat of the bullet, the amount of expansion could be controlled. This allowed ammunition manufacturers to tune the bullet to the velocity of the cartridge and better control the expansion/penetration ratio. The method of drawing a copper cup around the lead core results in what I have referred to elsewhere in this book as a cup-and-core bullet.

There were failures early on. The copper cup would often separate from the lead core upon impacting a game animal, and penetration was severely affected. Attempts were made to better keep the bullets together during the terminal ballistics phase. Remington’s 1939 Core-Lokt bullet used a cannelure that stepped the copper jacket into the lead core to better keep the bullet in one piece. A tapering copper jacket, thicker toward the rear, made an appreciable difference in controlling—that is, slowing—the amount of expansion so that the necessary penetration could be obtained.

In the first half of the 20th century, hunters pretty much had two choices, especially for the dangerous game of Africa: a soft-point bullet with a bit of exposed lead at the nose with a copper jacket that covered the remainder of the bullet, or a full metal jacket bullet—commonly referred to as a solid—which offered no expansion whatsoever, but would provide fantastic penetration against those animals with extremely thick hides and huge, tough bones. There were volumes of material written about the effectiveness (or lack thereof) of the waves of new cartridges being released by British, German and American ammunition and firearms companies. If you are a fan of firearms and cartridge development (and by picking up this book I would assume you are), there are plenty of articles and books available that give a good glimpse into the situation at various points throughout the first half of the 20th century. People like Elmer Keith, Jack O’Connor, John “Pondoro” Taylor, W.D.M. Bell and John Hunter authored many of these works, and these gentlemen all had huge amounts of hands-on experience with the tools of their day. In reading their works, one can get a definite feel for the opinions they garnered through trial and error, and these opinions are still heralded today.

However, the reader must also appreciate the fact that many of the opinions generated by these now-famous authors were directly influenced by the terminal performance of the projectiles of their era. One of my favorite volumes, written by John “Pondoro” Taylor—an Irishman who tramped all over southern and eastern Africa—is African Rifles and Cartridges, a treatise on firearms and cartridges commonly used throughout the Dark Continent from 1920 until 1948 or thereabouts. Taylor had, according to his own accounts, used the vast majority of popular cartridges, from the .22 Long Rifle up to and including the behemoth .600 Nitro Express. He recounted his experiences with those cartridges on all sorts of African game, from the diminutive antelope up to the gigantic elephant. While few may have the opportunity to hunt Africa, this cross-section of game taken by Taylor includes many that are similar to our North American species.

Jack O’Connor was a fantastic author, known for championing the .270 Winchester, and was a proponent of the lighter calibers using bullets at higher velocities. Elmer Keith, an Idaho rancher with an extensive background in firearms, was responsible for the development of several highly popular handgun cartridges, as well as participating in the development of rifle cartridges that went on to influence future developments. These two gentlemen were both very well respected, yet had diametrically opposed views on what made a suitable hunting cartridge for various species. Keith believed in much heavier bullets than did O’Connor. But I firmly believe that their respective points of view were inarguably based on the terminal performance of the projectiles from their era much more than the potential of the cartridges by which they so strongly swore.

Walter Dalrymple Maitland Bell, a Scotsman whose adventures in early 20th century Africa are heralded to this day, was a proponent of the use of small-bore rifles (the 7x57mm Mauser being the most used) for big game, especially on the 1,000-plus elephants he took in his hunting career. Bell, who was an excellent shot, especially under the pressure of being in close proximity of truly dangerous game, made the claim that his “barrel had never been polluted by a soft-point bullet.” He came to rely solely on full metal jacketed bullets, which had the nose portion strengthened by steel, placed under the layer of copper gilding metal. While I don’t think that any Professional Hunter alive today would recommend or even accept the 7x57mm Mauser as an appropriate dangerous game cartridge, Bell was not a hunting client in today’s sense. He had no legal requirements regarding rifle caliber and was literally in uncharted waters with respect to ballistic boundaries. Bell found that 173 grains of bullet properly placed would work just as effectively as 500 grains. If either bullet were placed incorrectly, Bell contended, they were equally ineffective. We can agree that a cartridge as small as the 7mm Mauser is not the best choice for dangerous game, but Bell’s point was that a bullet, if properly constructed, could amaze a hunter as to its actual capabilities. In a very short period of time, the four-bore lead cannonball weighing in at 1/4 pound had effectively been matched with a 173-grain steel and copper jacketed 7mm slug. The terminal ballistics experimentation of Bell (who also used a 6.5x54mm Mannlicher-Schoenaur and a .318 Westley Richards) gave quite a bit of insight into the importance of bullet construction and its correlation to terminal ballistics.

All of these hunters had an irrefutable effect on the reputations of our favorite cartridges on both ends of the spectrum. And many of those endorsements, based on the projectiles available to them at the time, carry on to this day. Today, however, some of these viewpoints need to be revised.

The cup-and-core bullets of the first half of the 20th century were tweaked in many different ways to achieve the consummate blend of expansion and penetration. The Remington Bronze Point was an early release that used a hollowpoint design, capped with a sharp, bronze tip that would not only prevent the meplat of the bullet from being battered under recoil, but would act as a wedge to initiate expansion. It was met with mixed reviews. Some hunters found it to work wonderfully, giving great expansion and hydraulic shock. Others reported that the bullet failed to give any expansion at all—acting just like a solid and giving caliber-size entry and exit wounds. Most folks just used the standard cup-and-core bullets, with varying levels of satisfaction.

All that changed in 1948 when John Nosler went moose hunting. His chosen rifle (and a fine one at that) was the .300 Holland & Holland Magnum, a perfect choice for the distances at which moose may be taken, and a caliber with an excellent reputation for big game. I’m not sure which brand of projectile Nosler was using, but the story as I’ve heard it goes as follows. Nosler had a moose at relatively close range, and while he placed his shots well, right on the beast’s shoulder, the bullets just wouldn’t penetrate. His cup-and-core bullets, driven to a muzzle velocity of just over 3,000 fps, simply were breaking up on the tough muscles and shoulder bones of the huge moose. This left him perplexed. He knew he had done his part, and that there must be a better solution to the problem of bullet construction. Once he got home, he put on his thinking cap and came up with an idea: a bullet divided in two, separated by a partition of copper, which would be made integral with the copper jacket. He took a copper rod of proper dimension, drilled out either end, inserted a lead core and fashioned the front portion into a spitzer profile. The idea was to allow the front portion of the bullet to expand for the tissue destruction necessary for a quick kill, yet keep the rear portion intact for deep penetration. The idea worked perfectly, and the Nosler Partition was born. It did exactly what Nosler intended, giving nearly the penetration of a solid, yet the front expanded properly. Naturally, the performance of this bullet caused it to catch on quickly, and to this day the Nosler Partition remains a favorite of hunters around the globe.

john-nosler-1
John A. Nosler pioneered bullet construction and is perhaps best known for the tough Partition bullet. Photo courtesy of Nosler.com.

What John Nosler really did was single-handedly kick-start what would become the premium bullet industry. The premium bullet designs that have come onto the market have been nothing short of amazing. In the post-WWII years, many premium or boutique bullet companies popped up, once the raw materials became available once again. There were huge surpluses of powder, and some eager entrepreneurs began to show their wares, resulting in what are household names today: Joyce Hornady, Vernon Speer, Sierra Bullet Company, just to name a few. They gave us the projectiles that, while of standard construction, allowed hunters to develop their own handloaded ammunition with reliable and predictable results. Over the decades, these companies would hone their crafts and continue to push the boundaries of bullet technology.

The Barnes Bullet company dates back to the 1930s, when Fred Barnes was making his own custom bullets in his basement. He sold the company three decades later and, following a succession of sales, the company ended up in the hands of Randy and Coni Brooks. The Brooks’ kept Barnes on for a bit as a consultant, but it was they who had the revolutionary idea. Randy Brooks had experienced bullet failure in the past, and while he was sitting on a high perch in Alaska glassing for spring brown bear and thoughts wandering, he had an epiphany. As he explained it to me, he thought, why not take out the lead. The result: He had designed the all-copper expanding X-Bullet, which solved the problem of jacket/core separation, and led to an entire school of thought known as the monometal expanding bullet. This was a huge development in terminal ballistics. The scored hollowpoint would open upon impact to form an X. The retained weight of the bullet was unprecedented. Brooks also developed a monometal solid for the African heavyweights that remains one of the best on the market even today.

Swift Bullets, hailing from Kansas, has also set an impressive benchmark in the terminal ballistics world. Improving, if you will, on the partitioned bullet design, Bill Hober’s company uses a thicker jacket for their A-Frame bullet, as well as chemically bonding the jacket to the front lead core, further slowing expansion. The A-Frame is a great choice for thick-skinned animals and is ideal for any critter smaller than elephant. When recovered from game animals, it proves to hold its weight very well—often in the 90 to 95 percent range—and shows good expansion on the front end, displaying the classic A-Frame rivet just behind the partition. I’ve often described the Swift A-Frame as “meat-resistant,” meaning the more meat you hit, the greater the resistance to the bullet, the more the A-Frame will expand. On big game, such as bison and Cape buffalo, it will expand to around twice its caliber, yet on smaller game that number diminishes, often whistling clear through … still killing, yet not leaving you with a whole bunch of bloodshot meat. I especially like this bullet when using a big-bore rifle, say a .375 or one of the .40 calibers, for hunting plains game in a dangerous game block, or when chasing elk or moose in an area known to be inhabited by grizzly. Swift makes this bullet not just for the bolt-action rifles (in a semi-spitzer design), but in a flat meplat designed for use in the popular lever-action cartridges, as well as for the hunting revolver cartridges. Were I to choose just one bullet for all of my hunting beside the elephant, it would be the Swift A-Frame. I’ve used it on dozens of different species, and its terminal ballistics make it my personal favorite, even though I know I’m giving up a little bit of ballistic coefficient.

There are now many different bullet designs on the market that feature a sharp polymer tip, serving to act much like the Remington Bronze Tip I discussed earlier. The polymer tip of the bullet is designed to increase the ballistic coefficient, yet upon impact the tip acts like a wedge, initiating expansion. The polymer tip has been incorporated into many different bullet designs: The Barnes TTSX, the all-copper hollowpoint with a tip to promote expansion; the Swift Scirocco II, a heavy jacketed boattail bullet with a bonded core; and the Hornady SST, a standard cup-and-core design. Nosler alone has three tipped models, the Ballistic Tip, AccuBond and E-Tip, and all three are constructed differently.

barnes-tsx-monometal
The Barnes TSX is an update of the original model and is an all-copper hollow-point.

There are specially designed varmint bullets engineered to give an almost explosive terminal performance. These feature very thin jackets and soft lead cores, and are as frangible as can be, delivering all sorts of hydraulic shock. Some are hollowpoints, while others are polymer tipped, but all have come a long way toward their specific goal: creating the red mist that varmint hunters are after.

Lastly, the most recent developments in big game rifle bullet technology are some real eye openers. The Woodleigh Bullet Company of Australia has released their Hydrostatically Stabilized Solid, a non-expanding monometal with a small cup at the nose. This bullet creates a supercavitation bubble, destroying tissue along the way, yet exiting at caliber dimension. This design worked perfect for me in Africa on game from impala to elephant, offering all the penetration anyone would want, in addition to quick, humane kills. 

The Pennsylvania-based company Cutting Edge Bullets produces monometal projectiles (either all-copper or all-brass) that are turned on a lathe for extremely tight tolerances. Their Raptor bullets are a hollowpoint design, available either with or without a polymer tip, and the ogive of the bullet is skived, so upon impact the front half breaks into little blades that cause the initial trauma in a star-shaped pattern. It’s a very interesting concept, and one that has proven itself around the world for me.

Peregrine Bullets, hailing from South Africa, are producing a fine monometal bullet too, in several different configurations. One I find most interesting is the Bush Master bullet, which uses a bronze plunger in the hollowpoint with a slight bit of air space underneath it. The plunger sits flush with the meplat of the bullet and, upon impact, forces the bullet to expand as the air trapped inside the hollowpoint can’t be compressed, resulting in force that opens up the nose of the bullet. Designed with a thick wall and an almost flat nose, the Bush Master imparts its energy much like a flat-nose or round-nose, yet retains almost all of its weight, making it a great design for truly big game like moose, bear or any buffalo.

As you can see, the rifle bullet has had a long and complex journey when it comes to terminal ballistics, and we haven’t yet cracked the surface.

Revolver and pistol bullets have gone through much the same development, and many of the designs I’ve described are offered in a handgun configuration. Bonded cores, thick jackets, monometals, skived hollowpoints—they’ve all made their way into the handgun bullet market. The lead pistol bullet of yesteryear still gives good performance, but today’s designers have imparted their wisdom to the handgun projectile so as to give some rather stunning results. The idea of jacketing a handgun bullet is as old as the jacketed rifle bullet itself. The same Hague Convention decree applied to handgun bullets, so the full metal jacket bullet is certainly a popular configuration, and its terminal ballistics have been proven in a pair of World Wars. The still-popular ball ammunition offers no expansion whatsoever, but provides fantastic penetration. Ballistic engineers have long sought the consummate balance between bullet expansion and penetration, seeking to give just enough penetration to neutralize a threat, yet not too much, which could injure or kill unintended parties.

There are some great pistol bullets that fit this bill using a hollowpoint design and varying jacket types. Some have the jacket locked in with a cannelure, others lock the copper jacket around the mouth of the hollowpoint. Some of these designs include the Hornady XTP and XTP Mag, Speer Gold Dot, and the Federal Hydro-Shok, Guard Dog and HST.

Monometal bullets have been adapted to a self-defense role. The Cutting Edge Bullets line of Personal Home Defense ammunition comes immediately to mind, offering many of the same benefits of the rifle bullets of same design: lighter throw weight and correlative higher velocity, stout construction and reliable expansion. When it comes to a self-defense handgun projectile, a flat trajectory is not a major concern, but accuracy and terminal ballistics are paramount.

On the hunting side of things, the evolution of the bullet has led to some impressive terminal performance. Yes, hardcast lead bullets, usually in a flat-point configuration will still make a dependable choice at most hunting handgun ranges, especially in the heavy-for-caliber weights, but the premium bullets will truly allow the hunting revolver to shine. The Swift A-Frame, with its copper partition and front bonded core, gives fantastic terminal performance. With weight retention often above 85 percent—even at the high velocities associated with the speedy .454 Casull and bone-crushing .460 Smith & Wesson—the hollowpoint front core will expand to a diameter of just around 1.5 times caliber dimension. Barnes has also adapted their X-bullet technology, resulting in their XPB handgun bullet. Being an all-copper, hollowpoint design, the XPB gives the terminal performance handgun hunters desire: good expansion, with the deep penetration associated with the monometal bullets.

It’s time for a detailed look into the terminal performance of different bullet types. When we’re done, don’t be surprised if you feel the need to rethink some old opinions—I know I did!  

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest's The Ballistics Handbook.


Raise Your Firearms IQ:

Bergara BMR Review: .22LR Tested

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I put the Bergara BMR Carbon to the test to see if it cuts muster for entry-level competition rimfires.

It used to be only 10-year-old boys and 65-year-old men who got geeked up about rimfire rifles—especially .22 LR. A lot has changed over the years. Far from simply a gateway to greater calibers or a penny-pincher’s range toy, .22 rifles have evolved into highly refined, specialized tools. Case in point, the Bergara BMR. 

At this point, the rifle is somewhat of a known commodity, released in 2021 and having made its rounds. But few new long guns—particularly rimfire—have punched more of a toehold into my mind than Bergara’s competition plinker since I first handled it. 

Were the rounds I splashed on top of each other at 200 yards just the case of a show gun brought to wow the media geeks? Did the rifle have the chops to live up to its billing as a top off-the-shelf competition rimfire? Was the BMR as phenomenal as I remember? Honestly, I had to find out. 

BMR Specs 

  • BMR Specs 
  • Caliber: .22 long rifle 
  • Other Available Calibers: .22 WMR, .17 HMR 
  • Capacity: 5+1 or 10+1, detachable polymer box magazine 
  • Stock: Black with gray splatter pattern, injection molded 
  • Barrel: 18 inches, carbon, 1:16 twist, threaded ½-28 with thread protector 
  • Finish: Black 
  • Length: 36 inches  
  • Weight: 5 pounds 
  • Trigger: User adjustable 
  • Price: $719 carbon barrel; $619 steel barrel   

What The Hell Is The BMR? 

Good question, because like many new rimfires hitting the market in recent years, the Bergara is purpose-built with a certain shooter in mind. In this case, the lightweight and nimble iron was engineered mainly for base class NLR22 series shooters and to contend against such series staples as the Tikka T1x and CZ 457. For those who need to know, the base class is the budget division of the rimfire series, where the combined MSPR of the rifle and scope cannot exceed $1,300. 

BMR standalone
While not the cheapest option, the rifle does remain competitive in price. With the Vortex Diamondback 2-7x35mm scope, the gun would make it well within the stipulations of the NRL22 Base Class.

That said, the rifle certainly isn’t confined in the competition box and its greatest asset for gunning down gold is the same that makes it a more than viable field arm—its price. I tested the more spendy of the two BMR models—the carbon barrel variation—which has an MSRP of $719. Bergara, however, also has a steel-barrel iteration that rings up at $619. With some savvy shopping, it is not difficult to find either model at roughly $100 less at retail, which overall makes it highly competitive to the upper crust of off-the-shelf rimfires. 

Micro Action

Over the years, I’ve become familiar with Bergara Rifles, starting with the company’s cornerstone B14 series. While still primarily known as a hunting rifle company, the Spanish-American manufacturer has veered into competition irons and has proven a quick study. The Bergara Premier Competition Rifle is one of the finest production-class PRS guns I’ve tested, and this know-how again shines through on the BMR. 

Micro Action
The action is smooth and strong. The only knock, it is smaller than a Remington 700 footprint, thus not a true trainer.

Essentially, the rimfire rifle mimics the company’s B14 line in design points, however, at a smaller scale. At the heart of this is the Bergara Micro Action, which offers many of the same features as its bigger centerfire brother—oversized bolt handle, bolt release button, shroud and cocking indicator. However, those of you getting geeked up about slapping the BRM into a chassis or another stock need to control yourselves. While the B14 is indeed a Remington 700 footprint, the BRM is not; indeed, it is quite a bit shorter and has a rimfire action down to boasting a lugless bolt. 

Since we’re on the bolt, it’s worth mentioning a few points about it. In particular, the BMR’s extraction/ejection system. It uses dual extractors and a fixed ejector, and I walked away fairly impressed with how reliably the rifle spit spent brass. This includes the tail end of 400 rounds of testing and no cleaning. While extractors and ejectors aren’t the sexiest part of a rifle system, those who shoot rimfire at any volume understand this is a key point of the system. 

BMR bolt extractors
Sturdy dual extractors and ejector makes the bolt worth its weight in gold.

The good news is that the rimfire is compatible with 700 triggers, so you can tailor the switch to your heart’s desire. It’s questionable you’d need to swap out the trigger on the BMR, as the rifle’s stock fire control is solid. A single-stage trigger, it is user-adjustable though I didn’t mess around with mine as its roughly 3-pound break was comfortable enough for the test.  

Other Points Of Interest 

Perhaps aside from a pretty cool profile, the first thing that became evident to me in unboxing the Bergara BMR is the lightness of the rifle. Sure, a company can put down the weight of a gun in the specs, but it doesn’t mean much as compared to having it in the hand. The carbon model felt as svelte as its 5- pound listed weight and was nearly imperceivable when at the shoulder. 

Bergara BMR 9
The BMR Carbon's barrel is a thing of beauty—to the eye, in hand and at the range.

Much of this is thanks to the rifle's carbon-fiber-wrapped barrel, which has been fairly abbreviated at 18 inches. To this, Bergara threads the muzzle of the rifle (½-28-inch) to accept a suppressor, almost a necessity on all but true budget plinkers. The BMR comes with 5- and 10-round magazines, the rifle releases these by a very handy double-paddle release at the front of the trigger guard. Finally, the company includes a 30 MOA Picatinny rail for optics mounting, a feature that gives the shooter the ability to stretch the range of the rifle considerably. 

Now for some nits to pick on the BMR package. 

The stock is a plastic fantastic, an injection-molded affair that doesn’t blow me away. The stock does have aluminum pillars to improve the action’s bedding, it is light, the barrel was well centered down its channel and ergonomically it was comfortable. On the flipside, the fore-end has a bit of flex to it—not enough it would affect a shot, but it’s still there. Overall, the stock is not bad, but it’s not a huge selling point either. 

BMR threaded muzzle
As it should be, the BMR comes with a threaded muzzle.

Then there’s the bottom metal. Spoiler, it’s not metal.  Instead, Bergara has opted for plastic. Understandable, given the company’s apparent aim is the most rifle for the least amount of dollars—this requires cost savings. The only concern I have here is its potential role as a field gun and an inadvertent impact on a rock or hard surface. 

At The Range 

After numerous trips to the range with the BMR, I walked away as impressed as I did in my first encounter with the rifle. Honestly, the gun remains one of the most enjoyable I’ve handled in a spell.   

For testing, I topped the rifle with a Vortex Diamondback 2-7x35mm scope and ran both CCI 40-grain Velocitor HP and 40-grain Clean-22 ammunition and shot 10 5-round groups to test for accuracy at 50 yards off a bench and sandbags. The best of the day was .591 using Velocitor, and the overall average of both loads was .682. At this range, the average is slightly north of MOA accuracy. However, to be completely fair, there was a stout intermittent quartering headwind the day I did accuracy tests and this may have skewed the results. 

Stock and bottom metal
The nits to pick are the BMR's stock is nothing really to write home about and the bottom meatal is… well, plastic.

I shot the rifle as it came from the box, with only the addition of the scope. Heck, I didn’t even swab the bore. The BMR didn’t hiccup once, kicking spent brass trigger pull after trigger pull and chambered the next round smoothly. By the end of my last session with the gun and nearing 400 rounds, closing the bolt was a bit squishy, but that was a matter of carbon buildup rather than anything mechanical. 

Parting Shot 

I’ll confess, I enjoy .22 rifles, but I’m not a .22 rifle guy. However, Bergara might have me changing my tune somewhat. I’ve been behind the business end of the B14R (the company’s top-line training rifle) and now the BMR for some serious range time, and each rifle leaves me impressed. The latter especially, because of the price. Not only would I be comfortable taking the BMR into a competition and expect to do fairly well, but I honestly believe it could be an unparalleled varmint gun. Add a suppressor and an overpopulated prairie dog town or a hay field full of ground squirrels, well it might prove a little slice of heaven. 

Still, the gun is on the spendy side of things and that might not appeal to every shooter. But for those willing to fork over a bit more for match bragging rights or keeping small critters in line, the BMR could prove a value. 

Pros

  • Plenty accurate for competition  
  • Extremely light and well-balanced 
  • Good factory trigger 

Cons

  • Stock is very pedestrian 
  • More expensive than comparable rifles 
  • Plastic bottom metal 

More Rimfire Info:

Hardware Talk: Real Avid Smart Torq Wrench

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A quick look at Real Avid’s Smart Torq wrench, a must-have tool for every DIY gunroom bench.

I still remember my late father teaching me about engine work: rebuilding carburetors, the proper sequence of tightening lug nuts or the intricacies of various engine parts.

And the mysterious tool known as a torque wrench.

Firearms threaded fasteners didn’t receive such care back in the 1960s. Back then, tight was tight. Now, we know better. There’s a proper torque level for screws on your firearms, be they action screws or optics screws. And those numbers aren’t arbitrary. They matter.

Real Avid, as we all fully expect, has an answer. Their Smart Torq wrench isn’t sturdy enough to reassemble a Ford Windsor 351, but I haven’t had to do that since 1983. However, what it offers are useful things to tinkering gunners.

First, it’s calibrated in inch-pounds, so you can tighten all the various fasteners on your firearms, and not over-torque them. Trying to coax a foot-pound wrench into delivering 3 pounds (36 inches) can be nerve-wracking. (You know how I know this. And if you don’t know, then you don’t want to know.)

real-avid-smart-torq-wrench
The settings are easy to set, easy to read and easy to hear when you’ve reached the proper torque setting.

And the settings are easily adjusted, audible and can be read at a glance. It has its settings in increments of 1 inch-pound, which is another bonus. You don’t have to split the difference, or flip a coin, between 5-pound settings, for example. The range is from 10 inch-pounds up to 70, which covers pretty much everything on a firearm I’ve ever had to tighten.

The working end of the Smart Torq is a hex-socket, so you can use whatever bit you need. All sizes, designs and types are yours for the selecting out of an array. And one more detail: There’s an included 90-degree handle you can use to push or pull the wrench until it’s up to torque, and use your other hand to simply keep the wrench firmly in contact with the screw.

The Real Avid Smart Torq comes in its own zippered storage container, with the 90-degree handle and a starter selection of a dozen driver bits. Since it’s a standard hex-socket, the entire big-box hardware store selection of bits is available as you need them.

Speaking of sturdy, if the Smart Torq has one fault, it’s that it’s not pocketable. It is perhaps a bit big to have in a gear bag at the range, unless your range sessions are like mine: Pack like you’re leaving forever (sometimes it feels like that.) For me, the Smart Torq is going to be a bench tool and not a range bag tool. But that’s fine, because that’s where most of my scope mounting, and stock-to-action assembly, is done.

So, the Smart Torq takes its place on the bench next to the racks of screwdriver, Allen, torx and other bits, ready to be used in assembling the next project. And you’ll find the entire kit with a street price of about $80. It’s not super-cheap, but what you get is certainly worth the money.

Oh, and carburetors? They mixed air with gasoline in the feed system of an internal combustion engine, and when in tune things were great. When not, performance and mileage sucked. I don’t know that there has been an engine made for a U.S. car with a carburetor since 1990. In this case, retro isn’t cool.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the February 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Gunsmithing & Tools:

Best Revolvers Of All Time

5

Here are 10 wheelguns we find truly deserve to be called classics.

While today’s handgun market may be dominated by auto pistols, revolvers remain extremely popular. A strong market for them clearly exists, as companies continue to design and manufacture new models every year. While there are some excellent modern revolvers available today, it raises the question of what were the best revolvers ever made.

Of the 10 revolvers that I felt were deserving of a spot, some will only be available used while others are still being produced today in some form or another. Either way, all are certifiable classics.

Lists like this are subjective by nature, but it would be hard to argue that the selected wheelguns didn’t leave a major impact on the handgun world. That said, if you feel that any revolvers are missing or that one of these picks doesn’t deserve its spot on the list, let us know in the comments!

What Makes A Revolver “The Best”?  

There are many different metrics that one could use to determine what the best revolvers of all time were. You could analyze it from a pure manufacturing standpoint, consider each model’s features and shootability or even look at raw sales numbers. This list will use a more comprehensive approach.

To qualify as one of the best, each revolver needs to have been well-built and shootable enough to have earned a good reputation and an extensive history of proven, real-world use. Whether that use was with the military or police, hunters, competition shooters or just ordinary citizens, all these guns became known to work when they needed to, work well and work for a long time.

The Top 10 Revolvers of All Time

S&W Model 442 

Laser-Sights-Fourth
With small carry guns like this S&W 442, the sights are adequate only in perfect light. The addition of a laser allows accuracy levels that could never be achieved with iron sights with such a short sight radius. This group was fired with Remington Golden Saber ammunition at 15 yards off a bench in low light.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Smith & Wesson Model 442 Airweight
  • Barrel Length: 1.88 Inches 
  • Finish: Black 
  • Grips: Synthetic 
  • Caliber: .38 Special 
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 14.6 Ounces
  • Dimensions: 6.3×1.3×4.3 Inches
  • MSRP: $539 

Descended from the S&W Centennial that was introduced in 1952, this line of snubnose revolvers has been one of the most popular concealed carry handguns ever since it was released. The Model 442 was introduced in 1990, and it’s since taken its place as the gold standard for .38 snubs.

That’s partly because in 1995, the 442 was given an aluminum frame and the “Airweight” designation. As a DAO 5-shot J-frame with an internal hammer and simple, snag-free sights, it was already easy to carry, but shaving off a few ounces made it even better. The 442 is still in production and S&W offers five variants of it at the time of writing.

There are arguably better snubs available for concealed carry today, but a huge number of armed citizens still prefer the tried-and-true 442.

Check out our complete review on the 442!

Smith & Wesson Model 10 

SW-Model-10-best-revolver-2
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Smith & Wesson Model 10 (Current production)
  • Barrel Length: 4 Inches
  • Finish: Black 
  • Grips: Wood 
  • Caliber: .38 Special
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 34.6 Ounces 
  • Dimensions: 8.87×1.45 x5.85 Inches
  • MSRP: $879

Initially introduced as the Smith & Wesson .38 Hand Ejector Model of 1899 and chambered for the .38 Long Colt cartridge, this revolver has gone by many names as it evolved over the years. Most known as the Model 10 today, it was one of the most popular handguns in the world for much of the 20th century. It was also called the S&W Military & Police, or M&P, for many years due to its great popularity with police and militaries in both the U.S. and abroad. Given its service history and reputation, it’s not a stretch to call the Model 10 the single most proven service handgun in history.

The Model 10 has always been a pretty simple affair, although more feature-rich variants were produced over the years as well. Today, S&W still makes the Model 10, albeit only the most classic and basic version. Chambered for .38 Special, it has a 6-shot cylinder, a 4-inch barrel, a top strap gutter sight and fixed blade front sight, wood grips and a black finish. This K-frame is about as classic as classic revolvers get.

Colt Python 

colt-python
In 1955, Colt’s Firearms introduced what many believe to be the most elegant .357 Magnum revolver ever created—the Python. This example is an Ultimate Python in stainless steel and has the best features found with any Python, plus the bonus of custom grips to make it one of the nicest .357 Magnum revolvers one can find.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Colt Python (Current Production)
  • Barrel Length: 2.5; 3; 4; 4.25; 5; 6 Inches
  • Finish: Polished Stainless Steel; Blued; Matte
  • Grips: Walnut; Rubber; G10
  • Caliber: .357 Magnum/.38 Special 
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 46 Ounces (6-inch model)
  • Dimensions: 11.5×1.55×5.5 Inches (6-inch model)
  • MSRP: Starts at $1,299 

The Colt Python is certainly one of the most beautiful revolvers ever made. It has one of the most iconic, striking silhouettes of any handgun, with the full-length ejector shroud and vent rib on the barrel making it instantly recognizable.  

The Python was made to be an up-market gun, requiring extensive fitting and finishing processes to turn them out. They were popular bullseye guns and some found their way into police service by officers who scrimped and saved enough to buy one. Whether the second generation introduced in 2020 lives up to the original-production models is up for debate, but at least they’re still available. 

Read our full review on the Colt Python.

Smith & Wesson Model 19 

Model-19
The Model 19 boasted supreme stopping power, yet came in a manageable package.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Smith & Wesson Model 19 Classic (Current Production)
  • Barrel Length: 4.25 Inches
  • Finish: Black 
  • Grips: Wood 
  • Caliber: .357 Magnum/.38 Special 
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 37.4 Ounces
  • Dimensions: 9.87×1.45×5.85 Inches
  • MSRP: $989

Bill Jordan—the famed Border Patrol agent, Marine Corps veteran and gun writer—collaborated with Smith & Wesson to create the “peace officer’s dream” gun: a medium-frame service revolver in .357 Magnum.  

The idea was a K-frame revolver with an elongated cylinder, a heavy 4-inch barrel and target sights. It was designed to be slimmer and lighter than the other N-frame .357 Magnums of the era, and it certainly achieved this goal.  

The Model 19 saw extensive service in dozens, if not hundreds of agencies and earned a very solid reputation in the process. They aren't perfect, as the cylinders were prone to warpage if you shot too much .357 Magnum, but that didn’t stop it from becoming one of the most respected and loved service revolvers of all time. S&W still produces a classic variant of the Model 19 as well as two Performance Center carry models.

Colt Model 1873/Single Action Army

5_Gunfighting-Pistols-Colt-SAA
The Model 1873 Colt Single Action Army revolver with a 4¾-inch barrel in .45 Colt, the classic gunfighter’s weapon of the Old West.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Colt Single Action Army (Current production)
  • Barrel Length:  4.75; 5.5; 7.5 Inches
  • Finish: Blued/Case-hardened
  • Grips: Synthetic
  • Caliber: .45 Long Colt
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 36.96 Ounces (7.5-Inch Model)
  • Dimensions: 13×1.67×5.5 (7.5-Inch Model) 
  • MSRP: $1,799

The adoption of the Colt Single Action Army as the new standard military revolver in 1873 helped to mark the end of the percussion revolver era and the beginning of the cartridge era. It is the single most iconic American handgun besides the 1911.   

The 1873—never sold as the “Peacemaker”—enjoyed a long original production run from 1873 to the early 1940s. Rugged and reliable, the most common models were very simple, but the SAA was also manufactured in a huge number of configurations with different barrel lengths, chamberings, grips and other features. It’s easily the most successful handgun of its era, and Colt still offers three new-production variants.  

Check out our review on the Single Action Army and its clones.

Smith & Wesson Model 29

SW-Model-29-1
Through the urging of handloaders and outdoor writers, among them Elmer Keith, the .44 Magnum became a factory load in 1956. Smith & Wesson also released the Model 29, chambered for the round, the same year.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Smith & Wesson Model 29 (Current production)
  • Barrel Length:  4; 6.5 Inches
  • Finish: Black  
  • Grips: Wood 
  • Caliber: .44 Magnum/.44 Special 
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 48.3 Ounces (6.5-inch model) 
  • Dimensions: 12 x1.7×6.1 Inches (6.5-inch model)
  • MSRP: Starts at $1,179

The Model 29 is steeped in ironies. It had to be featured in a popular movie to sell any, as S&W had all but discontinued the model before Dirty Harry came out, and you were only supposed to shoot .44 Magnum on a limited basis with it. It was estimated that you'd get maybe 1,000 rounds through one before the cylinder warped. Elmer Keith wore out several, and .44 Magnum was partially his creation.  

That all said, who cares? The Model 29 is an incredibly beautiful gun with excellent sights and a very good factory trigger. It may not be “the most powerful handgun in the world” anymore, but it’s still just as iconic. Smith & Wesson continues to offer the classic N-frame with two barrel length options.

Ruger Blackhawk 

Predating the Ruger Vaqueros were the Ruger Blackhawks, like these with adjustable rear sights.
A couple of early Blackhawks with adjustable rear sights.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Ruger New Model Blackhawk (Standard Blued Models)
  • Barrel Length: 4.62; 5.5; 6.5; 7.5 Inches
  • Finish: Black 
  • Grips: Hard Rubber
  • Caliber: .45 Colt; .357 Magnum; .41 Rem. Mag.; .30 Carbine
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 42 Ounces (4.62-inch .357 Mag. model)
  • Dimensions: 10.5×1.75×6 Inches (4.62-inch model) 
  • MSRP: $879

The handloader's darling, the Ruger Blackhawk is a beefed-up single-action (heavily influenced by the Colt SAA) revolver with target sights, a fantastic factory trigger and a robust construction. The original models have been a mainstay among hunting revolvers and silhouette shooters for decades, and the current production New Model Blackhawk models are just as loved.

It was originally created for the .44 Magnum—in fact, the Ruger Blackhawk in .44 Mag. beat the S&W Model 29 to market—though that chambering has been moved to the Super Blackhawk line.  

It's always been a hoss, but that's part of what makes it an all-time great.  

Check out of full review on the Ruger Blackhawk.

Remington New Model Army 

Remington-New-Model-Army-RIAC
Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Remington New Model Army (Original)
  • Barrel Length: 8 Inches
  • Finish: Blued
  • Grips: Wood 
  • Caliber: .44  
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 45 Ounces 
  • Dimensions:  13.25×1.7×5 Inches  
  • MSRP: N/A

Yes, the Colts are more iconic, but the Remington New Model Army is stronger, better built and better designed.  

The top strap makes the New Model Army more durable than Colts of the era, and arguably more accurate. Remington added half notches to the cylinder so the user could lower the hammer between primers and carry a full load. You’ll need to pay an arm and a leg for an original, but reproductions are available from companies like Uberti for reasonable prices.

Smith & Wesson Model 17 

Model-17
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Smith & Wesson Model 17 Masterpiece (Current production)
  • Barrel Length: 6 Inches
  • Finish: Black 
  • Grips: Wood 
  • Caliber: .22 LR 
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 40.6 Ounces 
  • Dimensions: 11.25 x1.45 x5.85 Inches  
  • MSRP: $1,169

There have been many excellent .22 revolvers made over the years, and some of the models from H&R have a special place in my heart, but the best of them is without a doubt the S&W Model 17.  

The Model 17 is a K-frame in .22 LR which has been offered in several barrel lengths over its original production run from 1947 to 1998 and was popular as both an all-purpose plinker and a gun for serious bullseye shooters. The Model 17 is still found at NRA Bullseye matches to this day.  

Smith & Wesson Model 15

SW-Model-15-RIAC
Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.
  • SPECS:
  • Model: Smith & Wesson Model 15
  • Barrel Length: 4 Inches 
  • Finish: Blue 
  • Grips: Wood 
  • Caliber: .38 Special
  • Capacity:
  • Unloaded Weight: 34 Ounces
  • Dimensions: 9.13×1.45×5.85 Inches  
  • MSRP: N/A

The S&W K-38 Combat Masterpiece, later renamed to the Model 15, is a target version of the Model 10. It's an all-time classic both because it's a great revolver, but also because so much of modern shooting wouldn't exist, in a way, without it.  

That’s because much of modern handgunnery is descended from (either directly from or in spite of) Jeff Cooper and the modern technique he developed. Part of the modern technique, of course, comes from Jack Weaver, and the K-38/Model 15 was his handgun of choice.  

The Model 15 is accurate, eminently shootable and was both a common service revolver issued by the U.S. Air Force (among many other groups) and a common bullseye handgun for competition shooters. It's hard to imagine a better .38 than this. The only real downside compared to most others on this list is that it’s no longer in production. 


More On Revolvers:

Appendix Carry & Good Holsters

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Mexican carry can work in a pinch, but a good holster is key to practical and comfortable concealed carry of a handgun.

I sometimes get belittled by so-called “defensive handgun experts” because I’m fond of stuffing my lightweight Browning Hi Power in my waistband without a holster. This is commonly referred to as Mexican—or appendix—carry. I’m often told this is an inherently unsafe practice because the trigger isn’t covered and it doesn’t provide any retention.

browning-hi-power-mexican-carry
Most handguns aren’t configured well for comfortable and secure Mexican carry. The slim and tapered Hi Power, with its wider-than-its-slide grip, might be the most suited to this method of concealed carry. The key to effective Mexican carry is a sturdy form-fitting belt, like this Galco EDC Holster Belt, that holds the gun firmly to your body and covers the trigger and trigger guard.

Well, this is partly true; the only thing that keeps your gun secure is the tension between your belt and your body. This is a variable tension that’s dependent on what activity you’re currently engaged in. As far as the uncovered trigger, if the gun is shoved in behind your belt so that your belt—and pants—are covering the trigger, I’m not sure what’s going to pull that trigger.

Now, maybe you have gremlins roaming around in your underwear, or maybe—like a fool—you plan to, or will accidentally, stick your trigger finger inside your waist band when you intend to draw your handgun. (If your belt is tight enough to hold up your gun, I’m not sure how that’s possible.)

But aside from gremlins or your own stupidity, you should be OK. For what it’s worth, people negligently shoot themselves by accidentally pulling the trigger when drawing from holsters. Also, one of the most common self-inflicted—holster-related—gunshot wounds occurs when inserting a handgun into a holster that covers the trigger.

Galco-V-Hawk-holster-hi-power
One of the most comfortable and convenient IWB holsters is the Galco V-Hawk.

Doing It Right

Now, I don’t think holsterless carry is a better option than a good holster. It is, however, sometimes very convenient. I work from home, which is where I spend most of my time. If I’m simply running a quick errand or meeting my wife for lunch, I’ll shove my Hi Power in my waistband and carry on. If I know I’m going to be out and about for longer periods of time, I use a holster. A good holster is more comfortable for extended carry and does provide a higher degree of retention.

Galco-Royal-Guard-2-holster-hi-power
Galco’s Royal Guard 2.0 is an excellent, high-quality and comfortable IWB holster that’s offered for many different handguns.

Also—and this is important—a Browning Hi Power, because of its shape and size, lends itself very well to Mexican/waistband/holsterless carry … maybe more so than any other handgun. The Hi Power just seems like it was made to shove in your belt line. Most other defensive handguns, and especially the micro-nines that are so popular today, are just not shaped right for effective holsterless carry.

By Any Other Name

Now, you may be wondering why they call it “Mexican Carry.” Well, as the story goes, in response to Mexican anti-gun laws, they say many Mexicans started carrying without a holster. Should they come into unsuspected contact with the authorities, this allowed them to easily ditch their gun, leaving no evidence of ever being armed. That makes sense, but I’m guessing that practice has been used by all nationalities, for the exact same purpose, ever since handguns became a thing.

Simply-Rugged-Cuda-holster-hi-power
The Simply Rugged Cuda holster is a brilliant design that works well for IWB or OWB carry. This one is made of shark skin.

A more accurate description of this carry method is probably just “waistband carry.” Incidentally, during World War II, French resistance fighters often carried guns with what was called the “OSS string holster” for the same reasons. I’ve never seen any evidence that these brave souls—or Mexicans—experienced self-inflicted gunshot wounds at a rate any higher than folks who carry with a holster.

With that little rant and history lesson taken care of, truth be told, I utilize a holster more than not. The key to practical and comfortable concealed carry of a handgun, especially the itty-bitty ones, is a good holster. I’ve tried a bunch of different holsters, and those pictured here are a few I recommend without hesitation.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


For more information on concealed carry holsters check out:

Ammo Brief: .38 Short & Long Colt

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A quick look at two classic revolver cartridges, .38 Short Colt and .38 Long Colt.

The .38 Long Colt was once the official United States Army revolver cartridge (1892 to 1911). The short version was used mainly in the Colt Army & Navy Model revolver with swing-out cylinder, developed in 1887. The .38 Long Colt was introduced in 1875 as one of several chamberings for Colt New Line, New Police and New House revolvers.

Cartridges-of-the-World-16th-edition-550×725 (2)
This is an excerpt from Cartridge's Of The World, available now at GunDigestStore.com.

General Comments   

Since it was once a military cartridge, a number of Colt and Smith & Wesson revolvers in this chambering are still around. The .38 Long Colt cartridge can be fired in a .38 Special revolver, but not vice versa.

During the Spanish-American War and the Philippine Insurrection, the U.S. Army found that the .38 Long Colt had insufficient stopping power for combat use. The cartridge was therefore dropped in 1911, in favor of the .45 Automatic. This was the experience that made the military reluctant to adopt the 9mm Luger. However, it was forced to do so in 1985 largely as a NATO-inspired political decision.

Advocates of the smaller caliber admit the superior stopping power of the .45, but they point out that extra weight and reduced magazine capacity are detrimental factors that should also be considered.

38-long-colt-ballistic-data

The .38 Long Colt is in about the same class as the standard .38 Special loading, but it’s not nearly as accurate or as versatile. Some of the old .38 Long Colt revolvers will accept .38 Special or .357 Magnum ammunition, but never fire these in the old .38s. Firing the .357 Magnum would be particularly dangerous, probably wrecking the gun and possibly injuring the shooter or bystanders.

Remington has recently manufactured .38 Short Colt ammunition. Black Hills Ammunition has recently reintroduced .38 Long Colt ammunition in response to demands from the Cowboy Action Shooting fraternity.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest's Cartridge's Of The World.


Raise Your Ammo IQ:

Best Over/Under Shotguns: Affordable Doubles (2024)

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Over/Under shotguns tend to cost a lot of money. But there are some affordable double-barreled gems available nearly any shooter can work into their budget.

There are over/under shotguns out there that cost more than I paid for our three-bedroom brick ranch house in 1961. These would be the likes of Krieghoff, Kolar, Perazzi and others. Similarly, there are used side-by-sides, especially old English types, that in current-day prices can cost as much as a Southern California fixer-upper. This is not about such double guns.

The game plan here is to tell you about several over/unders and a side-by-side that won’t break your bank, melt your plastic or get you in too much Dutch with your spouse. There aren’t too many hunters, upland specialists and waterfowlers who wouldn’t love to see a nice double gun in their gun safe — as well as be proud to carry one come November. So, let’s start with CZ-USA and their flagship hunting over/under shotgun.

Best Over/Under Shotguns For The Price

Affordable Over/Under Shotgun Specs Comparison

ModelBarrel Length (inches)Overall Length (inches)Weight (lbs)Max Shell Length (inches)ChamberingLength of Pull (inches)Receiver FinishBarrel FinishStockRibMSRP
CZ Redhead Premier2845.757.9312,16, 2814.5Silver SatinGloss Black ChromeTurkish Walnut8mm Flat Vent$999
CZ Sharp-Tail Side-By-Side2845.757.3312, 20, 28, .41014.5Color Case HardenedBlack Hard ChromeTurkish WalnutRaised$999
Mossberg International Silver Reserve28457.5312, 20, 28, .41014Satin SilverMatte BlueBlack WalnutVented$820
Savage/Stevens Model 55528456.2312, 20, 28, .41014.57BlackBlackTurkish WalnutVented$769
Browning Citori26, 2843, 457.5, 7.6312, 20, 28, .41014.25Polished BluePolished BlueBlack Walnut1/4″ Vented$2,180
Specs are for 12-gauge models

CZ Redhead Premier
Profile of CZ's over/under shotgun, the Redhead Premier.

Redhead Premier Specs
Barrel Length: 28″
Overall Length:
45.75″
Weight:
7.9 lbs
Max Shell Length:
3″
Chambering:
12-guage (16, 28)
Length of Pull:
14.5″
Receiver Finish:
Silver Satin Chrome
Barrel Finish:
Gloss Black Chrome
Stock:
Turkish Walnut
Rib:
8mm Flat Vent
MSRP:
$999

Pros

  • Affordable
  • Versatile
  • Elegant Design

Cons

  • Only Extractors
  • Basic Walnut Quality
  • Not Designed for High-Volume Shooting

CZ is short for the Czech Republic company that the “C” and the “Z” in the company name are too hard for Americans to pronounce, so this is made simple with CZ — with CZ-USA the American importer of their many products. This company’s most traditional and most long-term products have to be their bolt-action centerfire rifles. But CZ also makes a complete line of rifles, plus Dan Wesson handguns and other firearms-related products. CZ’s many shotgun models are imported from Turkey.

But let’s get back to that CZ flagship over/under — the Redhead Premier. Of special interest, this model is not only available in 12, 20 and 28 — each of these gauge receivers is delivered in their own size frame, which means the 12 gauge is made on one size receiver, the 20 on a smaller receiver and on down the line with the 28.

The CZ Redhead Premier features a bright satin receiver, a bit of engraving, as well as a classic-style Turkish walnut stock. Both the 12- and 20-gauge guns come in either 26- or 28-inch barrels, and five flush-mounted screw-in chokes are included — all at a suggested retail of about a grand!

I missed the SHOT Show when the Turkish-made double guns were first introduced, then imported by a company called Armsco — the doubles made by Huglu in Turkey — the same maker that CZ now uses for their double-gun imports. But I did make the next SHOT Show, and the Armsco booth was the first I visited because I had been told of these over/unders and side-by-sides. I was so impressed that I eventually bought five of these doubles.

There’s fine laser-cut checkering on today’s CZ Redhead, a solid 8mm mid-rib (so no brush can accumulate while bulling thickets), a top rib, extractors and pistol grip that does not have a lot of re-curve. Thus, Prince of Wales style on that grip. There are 3-inch chambers in the 12 and 20 CZ Redhead Premiers, with 2¾-inchers in the 28 bore. The 28 come only with 28-inch barrels (probably CZ’s most popular length in all four gauges).

There’s a single extractor instead of ejectors on all gauges — plus the 12, 20 and 28 come with screw chokes.

Receiver of CZ over/under shotgun, the Redhead Premier

The length of pull has been updated at 14.5 inches, the drop at comb 1⅜ inches and the drop at heel is 2¼ inches. Triggers are mechanical, and the thumb safety is manual. Weight in the 12 gauge runs an average of 7.7 pounds, depending a bit on density of the walnut. Don’t expect a lot of walnut figure, but do expect wood strength.

What does a $12,000 over/under have over one like the CZ Redhead Premier that costs about $1,000? The Redhead is a hunting gun, though it can be used plenty on any clay target field. Hunting guns are simply not shot all that much when compared to a competition over/under that might be shot 20,000 times per year for decades! I doubt the Redhead will hold up to that type of long-term punishment.

Plus, on a $14,000 shotgun, there tends to be better fit and finish — a higher grade of walnut — as well as many other factors that increase costs. Still, if you're looking for a double gun that you want to hunt with, this CZ Redhead Premier and the others that will follow are definitely worth your consideration.

Redhead Premier Deal

Palmetto State Armory$927Gun Price Check
Gritr Sports$914Gun Price Check
Sportsman's Warehouse$980Gun Price Check

Draw A Bead On Shotguns:


CZ Sharp-Tail Side-By-Side
Receiver of the CZ Sharp-Tail

Sharp-Tail Specs
Barrel Length: 28″
Overall Length:
45.75″
Weight:
7.3″
Max Shell Length:
3″
Chambering:
12-guage (20, 28, .410)
Length of Pull:
14.5″
Receiver Finish:
Color Case Hardened
Barrel Finish:
Black Hard Chrome
Stock:
Turkish Walnut
Rib:
Raised
MSRP:
$999

Pros

  • Classic Design with Modern Durability
  • Gauge-Specific Frames
  • Versatile Choke System

Cons

  • Lacks Ejectors
  • Heavier for a Side-by-Side

While over/unders outsell side-by-sides by a large margin in America, there are those who feel that the side-by-side is the ultimate hunting gun. Many of the old English doubles can sell for over $100,000 — and they’re over 100 years old — so they weren’t made with modern stronger steels. This Sharp-Tail model is made with high-strength steel, and it sells for a pittance in comparison. Regardless, the gun comes with classic lines and classic appeal.

Further, the CZ Sharp-Tail is offered in 12, 20, 28 and .410 — each gauge built on its own size frame. Thus, the 28 gauge weighs only a whisper compared to the 12 gauge. But, even the 12 gauge is no heavyweight at 7 pounds, 3 ounces. All Sharp-Tails come with a 28-inch barrel only and extractors that lift both shells out for easy removal. 

There’s a classic feel to these guns with splinter fore-end (though CZ calls it a semi-beavertail) and a semi-pistol grip stock of Turkish walnut. Swing one on an upland bird and your mind will maybe take you back into history 100 years. The 20 gauge and 28 gauge weigh 6.3 and 5.9 pounds, respectively. In my view, these are the gauges to select for upland shooting, and the 12 for waterfowl and turkeys. The .410 CZ Sharp-Tail also weighs in at 5.9 pounds. List price is just under $1,000.

Forend of the CZ Sharp-Tail

Adding to this model’s appeal is the color case-hardened receiver finish. This is a new receiver compared to CZ side-by-sides of some years back — smaller and lighter, and probably stronger as well — and is forged in one piece. Trigger springs are now coil type. The trigger is a single, selectable one. Fine laser-cut checkering adorns the grip and slender fore-end. Five screw-in chokes are a part of the Sharp-Tail package (though fixed Modified and Full in the .410), and don’t forget the plastic protective case.

Three-inch chambers reside in the 12, 20 and .410, and a 2¾-inch in the 28 gauge. Barrels of both the CZ Sharp-Tail and CZ Redhead are black chromed on the outside (great for corrosion resistance), and inside there's full-length chrome protection. Stock dimensions are 14.5 x 1.5 x 2.25 inches. There’s a raised rib, and the mechanical trigger has a selector for barrel choice. So, if a side-by-side has long been on your “I wanna” list, maybe you better check out a CZ dealer. 

Sharp-Tail Deal

Sportsman's Warehouse$980Gun Price Check
Brownells$950Gun Price Check
Euro Optic$663Gun Price Check

Mossberg International Silver Reserve
Silver Reserve over/under

International Silver Reserve Specs
Barrel Length: 28″
Overall Length:
45″
Weight:
7.5 lbs
Max Shell Length:
3″
Chambering:
12-guage (20, 28, .410)
Length of Pull:
14″
Receiver Finish:
Satin Silver
Barrel Finish:
Matte Blue
Stock:
Satin Black Walnut
Rib:
Vented
MSRP:
$820

Pros

  • Versatile Choke System
  • Durable Lockup Design
  • Comfortable to Handle

Cons

  • Lack Of Ejectors
  • Plain Receiver Design

While this over/under no longer has a touch of engraving and a bright coin-finish receiver, the Mossberg International Silver Reserve is still a blast in the field. Once known as the Silver Reserve II, now the International Silver Reserve is an import from Turkey. Yes, the scrollwork is gone, in it place a matte silver receiver. But at the shoulder it remains equally as pleasant and responsive. In my mind, it brings up dreamy ideas of chasing native chukers somewhere in the Middle East.

However, this Mossberg over/under will be right at home whether you're chasing ruffed grouse, Hungarian partridge, pheasants, woodcock, quail, doves — even pest pigeons. Gauge choices run the gamut here — though no 16 bores are offered. May I suggest a 20 gauge? All gauges come with five flush-mounted screw-in chokes that are compatible with Benelli and original Beretta Mobilechokes.

Checkering on the pistol grip and slim fore-end of the over/under is the cut type. The website suggests 7 pounds for the 20 gauge with 26-inch barrels. However, my test 20 hefts 6 pounds, 9 ounces on my digital postal scale. Chambers are 3 inches in the 12, 20 and .410, and 2¾ inches for the 28 gauge. Length of pull is only 14 inches, which is a little short for most of today’s new guns but maybe just right for you. The stock is select Turkish walnut. There’s a vent rib with a front bead. All models models come with extractors, a bit of a regressions in the line, given the Sporting Silver Reserve II 12 gauge came with ejectors.

Sideview Silver Reserve over/under

Full retail price starts at $756, but who pays full retail for most anything these days? I’ve already mentioned melted plastic credit cards and empty cookie jars, but neither need take place with this series of Mossberg International Silver Reserve over/unders.

Lockup is similar to the CZ Redhead Premier — with barrels pivoting on trunnions and a full-width locking bolt that slides forward upon closing to engage lugs milled into the bottom of the monobloc. Further, two recoil lugs milled into the base of the monobloc dovetail into milled-out areas in the bottom of the receiver upon closing, resulting in a very strong lockup. A barrel selector on the safety switch allows choice of the top or bottom barrel. Picture yourself in a field of South Dakota CRP, a Minnesota tangle of wrist-thick aspens, approaching an old apple tree in New England, or watching a pointer quarter back and forth on a Southern plantation of pines with the undergrowth burned over the previous spring — in each scenario you are carrying a Mossberg International Silver Reserve over/under. 

Guns.com$640Gun Price Check
Sportsman's Warehouse$670Gun Price Check
Gritr Sports$619Gun Price Check

Savage/Stevens Model 555


Stevens 555 over/under shotgun ejecting shell

Model 555 Specs
Barrel Length: 28″
Overall Length:
45.28″
Weight:
6.2 lbs
Max Shell Length:
3″
Chambering:
12-guage (16, 20, 28, .410)
Length of Pull:
14.57″
Receiver Finish:
Black
Barrel Finish:
Black
Stock:
Turkish Walnut
Rib:
Vented
MSRP:
$769

Pros

  • Lightweight
  • Gauge-Specific Receivers
  • Nimble Swing

Cons

  • Aluminum Receiver
  • Extractors, Not Ejectors

Lightweight is the byword when it comes to the Savage/Stevens model 555 over/under because the receiver is not steel but high-strength aluminum alloy — but with a strength-enhancing steel insert at the breech face. Even the 12 gauge hefts only 6 pounds, the 20, 28 and .410 — 5.5 pounds — and each gauge is made to its own specific receiver size. These are the types of guns grouse and woodcock hunters seem to like because they want to carry their upland ordnance in a ready, somewhat port arms position full time … or at least for hours on end. Most of us can’t do that with a 7.5-pound shotgun. The heft of the smaller gauge 5.5-pound Stevens 555 makes such ready-carrying easy.

Read More: The Stevens 555 Enhanced Over/Under

The 12 gauge comes with a 28-inch barrel — the other three with a 26-incher. Barrels are rigged for flush-mounted screw chokes, with five of them included. The stock is Turkish walnut in a matte finish and the trigger is mechanical. There are extractors instead of ejectors, and there’s a manual safety — meaning the safety does not engage automatically when you open the gun. Lockup is similar to the previously described over/unders; barrels pivoting on trunnions — plus that full bolt based in the bottom of the receiver, and the strength-enhancing recoil lug.

Side view of Stevens over/under shotgun, the Model 555

There’s a vent rib with white bead at the muzzle; there are vented side panels, and the barrel wears a matte finish. The receiver and the fore-end iron are deeply blued — almost black. There’s cut checkering on the pistol grip and the fore-end — the latter Schnabel in style.

See Also: Stevens 555 Compact Over/Under Models

Mearns quail habitat in southern Arizona is some steep and thick cover. In my experience, they erupt with almost blinding speed — just the situation where a very lightweight shotgun can pay dividends. Why? Because in shooting scenarios like this, the bird’s jump has them already ahead of the barrels. So, the shooter must catch up — thus, the swing-through shooting technique is almost universally required here. The low weight of the Stevens 555 makes catching up easier.

Experienced swing-through shotgunners have a mantra as they are swinging to catch up: “Bum, Belly, Beak,” and “beak” is when they hit the trigger. 

Palmetto State Armory$659Gun Price Check
Guns.com$577Gun Price Check
Sportsman's Warehouse$700Gun Price Check

Browning Citori


Browning's classic, yet affordable over/under shotgun, the Citori

Browning Citori Specs
Barrel Length: 28″ (26″)
Overall Length:
45″
Weight:
7.6 lbs
Max Shell Length:
3″
Chambering:
12-gauge (20, 28, .410)
Length of Pull:
14.25″
Receiver Finish:
Polished Blue
Barrel Finish:
Polished Blue
Stock: Black Walnut
Rib:
1/4″ vented
MSRP:
$2,180

Pros

  • Durable
  • Variety Of Models
  • High-Quality Craftsmanship
  • Excellent Lockup

Cons

  • Expensive
  • Heavy
  • No Recoil Pad

Yes, we are moving up in price range with Browning’s Citori, but this over/under is a worthy consideration as the cost is relatively low compared to the quality, and so many of them have been sold that Citoris are readily available on the used market at less than retail prices. Further, these guns have performed on all the clay target stages — many of them for hundreds of thousands of rounds. So, you can rely on a Citori to hold up long term whether it's new or used.

I’ve visited a number of firearms factories over the years, and most are basically sophisticated machine shops that turn out high-quality firearms. Visiting the Browning factory in Japan, I saw things differently. Sure, there was plenty of “machining” going on there, but what impressed me in that factory was the inordinate amount of handwork that goes into making a Citori.

The Citori is, in many ways, a knockoff of the Browning Superposed. It was made in Belgium for decades. In the early 1970s Browning brass saw the financial handwriting on the wall. Belgian labor costs were mushrooming, and who knows how much the machinery there was aging and in need of replacement. Thus, the move was made to Japan, and the model name went from Superposed to Citori.

For decades now the Browning Citori has become available in a near unimaginable series of models — mainly specialized renditions for trap, sporting clays and skeet. These are more expensive than the basic Citori, but the ensuing paragraphs are devoted only to the Citori.

Read More: Browning 725 Citori Full Review

Today’s basic model is the Citori Lightning — in style similar to the Superposed Lightning — with Lightning-style rounded fore-end and semi-pistol grip. The Lightning model Citori is offered in 12 gauge — and on a smaller, lighter receiver in 20, 28 and .410 — all three smaller gauges based on the 20-gauge receiver and thus of similar weight.

The Citori's receiver

Further, there are Citori models with a steel receiver and those with an aluminum alloy, the latter offering almost a pound in weight reduction — this one dubbed the Citori Superlight. There’s even a White Lightning model with a bright silver nitride receiver. The basic Lightning receiver is richly blued. The current full retail starts at around $2,200. You also get good quality engraving on the receiver and fore-end, engraving that closely resembles the engraving on the old Superposed. 

The semi-pistol grip (again think Prince of Wales style) seems to offer quicker, surer gun mounting. Tight re-curve pistol grips are more suited to an already-mounted gun — as in clay target busting. The stock is gloss finished, and the checkering is cut very fine at 24 lines-to-the-inch. There is no recoil pad, which is important to a hunting gun, as less weight is involved with the Citori’s black plastic buttplate. Better balance is maintained, with the average balance point right at the hinge.

That “hinge” is also different in the Browning Citori compared to most all current-day over/unders. Barrels don’t pivot on trunnions but instead pivot on a full-width hinge pin. There’s also the full-width locking bolt and a recoil lug milled into the base of the monobloc that dovetails into a matching milled-out area in the bottom of the receiver — that recoil lug going all the way through the base of the receiver. Check out this square notch in the accompanying photo. This lockup design is extremely strong.

The Citori's grip

The 12 gauge tends to weigh a tad over 8 pounds with 28-inch barrels. Three screw chokes are included. Barrels are overbored to .74 inch. Chambers are 3 inches in the 12, 20 and .410, and 2¾ inches for the 28. The 12-bore Citori is also offered with 26-inch barrels, but the 20-gauge barrel possibilities are most interesting — 26, 28, 30 and 32 inches! With a 28-inch barrel, the 20 gauge goes 6 pounds, 9 ounces. Both the .410-bore and 28-gauge guns come with either 26- or 28-inch barrels. How about the 12-gauge in Mississippi at one of Nash Buckingham’s favorite waterfowl haunts? If the birds aren’t flying, you can always look down and admire the fit and finish of your Citori.

Want lighter weight? Then go with the Browning Citori Superlight models. These come with the alloy receiver, but the grip is straight and the fore-end features a bit of the Schnabel flare. More money is demanded here, but still a full retail of under $2,400. Other specs include: 26-inch barrels and 6 pounds, 12 ounces for the 12 gauge; and 5 pounds, 11 ounces for the 20 gauge. There are no 28s or .410s in the Superlight renditions. Receivers are bright silver nitride like the White Lightning — so expect even better corrosion resistance than a blued receiver.

Guns.com$1,300Gun Price Check
Sportsman's Warehouse$1,900Gun Price Check

Editor's Note: Elwood Shelton contributed to this article.

Essential Reads on Shotguns

Get Steady: A Buyer’s Guide For The Best Shooting Bags

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Whether you’re a competitive precision rifle shooter or just need to zero a firearm, a shooting bag is one of the most useful and versatile pieces of kit you can own.

What Are The Best Shooting Bags?:

Shooting bags, also called bag rests, are exactly what they sound like. Essentially just small bags filled with some sort of media, they act as a gun rest to provide additional stability, precision and support. They can be used as an ersatz bipod or in conjunction with one, but they’re a lot more user-friendly and typically cheaper, too. Heck, the concept is so simple that you could make one with a sock and some sand, and people do. While homemade versions can work fine, they won’t be as nice as what’s available for purchase these days. 

They're an incredibly handy accessory to have on hand, but there are a lot of different makers, models and types to choose from. So, let's get into what kinds there are, how you'd use one and what to look for when choosing the best model for your needs. We'll also go over our picks for the 10 best shooting bags on the market.

How Do You Use A Shooting Bag?  

The first and most obvious use is as a monopod, meaning that you rest the barrel, handguard or action on the bag to steady the gun.  

You can use one in place of a bipod or in combination with a bipod by putting a shooting bag under the butt of the gun. They're great for benchrest shooting at the range, for zeroing firearms and for shooting groups, but they are also incredibly useful in more dynamic environments such as hunting and shooting sports. 

shooting-bag-monopod
Here a shooting bag is being used as a monopod in place of the bipod.

Front bags go under the barrel, handguard or action, while rear bags are designed to support the butt of the gun. There are also all-purpose shooting bags, typically a pillow or pad-like design, that can be used as a front or rear bag as the shooter desires.  

Some bags are designed to be used anywhere the shooter can deploy one, be it in the field hunting, off a barricade or obstacle in a competition or off a bench or the ground at the range. Others, however, were designed to specialize in only one type of shooting.

shooting-bag-barricade-RECOIL

Some are small and light enough to be easily carried in the field, but the smaller they get, the less useful they typically become for shooting as well. The larger ones are easier to use, but more cumbersome to carry. Like all things in the gun world, it’s a tradeoff.

Precision shooters also use rear bags for more than just a rest. By placing the rear bag under the stock, curling your support arm back to grip the bag and squeezing it, you can use the bag itself to refine your point of aim. This trick alone makes a shooting bag an almost indispensable accessory for precision rifle shooting. 

Brantley-shooting-bag-squeeze
Pro shooter Robert Brantley demonstrating the bag squeeze technique at a Vista Outdoor event in Wyoming.

The idea is to use a front bag or a bipod to get the reticle almost where you want it, and then refine your aim to a specific point by squeezing the bag. This will compress the media inside and micro-adjust the rifle on a much finer scale than you’d be able to by just moving it.

How To Choose A Shooting Bag 

As with anything else, start with your use case. Shooting bags can be used for both general purposes or specific purposes, and designs vary accordingly. Ergo, know how you plan on using yours.  

For example, pillow-style bags can be used almost anywhere, but some bags are made to shoot off a bench, such as the benchrest “X” or “H” bags.  

Fill media can also matter in some cases. The most common is polyfill, little chunks of rubber or plastic, and it works pretty well in most instances. Corn cob tumbling media and sand are also common, and you might find the odd small bag with lead shot. Different fill media can give the shooting bag either more or less compression, but that's mostly a matter of the shooter's preference. 

Armageddon-Gear-shooting-bag

A bag that's going to be used in the field needs to resist moisture, so organic material is not the best choice unless the bag and the media are well sealed.  

So, consider what you're going to use it for, and look at the fill material accordingly. The more you need good support and structure, the denser the fill should be. Also, consider whether you want a general-purpose bag, a dedicated front bag, a dedicated rear bag or a set of both.

Modern rifle shooters should pay attention to bag height as well. A lot of shooting bags aren't tall enough to keep the bottom of a 30-round AR or AK magazine off the ground, so be aware of the dimensions if you intend to use your bag with 30-round mags. Of course, if you want a smaller bag, you could always just use smaller mags instead.

Armageddon-game-changer-barricade
An Armageddon Game Changer shooting bag used on a barricade. This model also has straps for attaching the bag to a rifle.

Another feature of some shooting bags to consider is the ability to attach it to a rifle. If you plan on using one as a monopod, especially in a dynamic environment, it can be extremely helpful to have one that can attach to the front of your rifle. Different bags have different means of attachment, however, so pay attention to which style your rifle can use. Straps are pretty universal, but some come with other mount styles like M-LOK.

So, with that all in mind, what are some of the best shooting bags currently available?

The 10 Best Shooting Bags

Precision Underground EL-Rx Rear Bag 

precision-underground

Specs:

Pros:

  • Extra grippy texture
  • Locking, stabilizing fill
  • Small and lightweight
  • Optional QD attachment option

Cons:

  • Pricy for its size
  • Only designed for rear bag use

Made for precision shooters, by precision shooters. The EL-Rx Rear Bag is a pillow-style rear bag with dual adjustable straps, an optional carabiner loop for QD attachment and enough compression to be wedged under a rifle stock.  

The nylon fabric shell resists tears, and the fill is Precision Underground's proprietary locking blend for stability. The bag weighs 2 pounds and is easily portable at 6x1x8 inches. MSRP is $85 without the carabiner attachment, and $89 with it included.  

Armageddon Gear Python 

Armageddon-python

Specs:

  • Weight: 1.5 pounds (nylon) Or 5.8 Pounds (waxed canvas)
  • Dimensions: 8x6x4 inches
  • Material: Nylon fabric Or Tanned waxed canvas
  • Fill: 50/50 heavy/ultralight Or Sand
  • MSRP: Starts at $49.95
  • Website: armageddongear.com

Pros:

  • Choice of light or heavy fill
  • Can be used as rear or front bag
  • Convenient carrying strap
  • Adjustable shape and size

Cons:

  • On the larger size
  • No means to attach to rifle

The Python is made to shoot off a barricade, irregular surface or rest, with cinch straps to fine-tune shooting position or stiffness. At 4 pounds and dimensions of 8x6x4 inches, it's sized for use as a front bag but can be used as a rear bag as well.

You can choose 1000D nylon with a half-and-half ultralight and heavy fill blend, or waxed canvas with sand fill. MSRP is $49.95 for the standard and $54.95 for the waxed canvas version. 

Caldwell DeadShot Combo Set 

caldwell-bag-set

Specs:

  • Weight: 7.625 pounds (front bag)
  • Dimensions: 10x8x7.5 inches (front bag) , 5×5.4.5 inches (rear bag)
  • Material: Water-resistant 600D polyester
  • Fill: Corn cob
  • MSRP: $39.99 (filled combo set)
  • Website: caldwellshooting.com

Pros:

  • Front and rear bag set
  • Can save money by providing your own fill
  • Affordable

Cons:

  • Large, not ideal for field use

The DeadShot Combo Set from Caldwell is a great, inexpensive, general-purpose set that includes both front- and rear-support bags.  

The bags are made with water-resistant 600D polyester fabric, a corn cob media fill and the front bag has a weight of just under 8 pounds. The smaller rear bag weight is not listed. You can get the set for about $40 online with the fill or get them unfilled for $20 and add whatever media you prefer.  

CrossTac X-Bag Shooting Rest 

crosstac-x-bag

Specs:

  • Weight: 2 pounds (x-bag)
  • Dimensions: 12x12x16 inches (x-bag)
  • Material: 1000D
  • Fill: Ultralight
  • MSRP: $119.99
  • Website: crosstac.com

Pros:

  • Versatile set, can be used for rifles and handguns
  • Tall enough to use with 30-round mags
  • Stable, easy to use shape

Cons:

  • Large, not ideal for field use
  • No means to attach to rifle

The X-Bag Shooting Rest is a bench rest bag set, including the main X-bag and a detachable pistol rest bag that can be used for handguns or as a rear bag for rifles. The main bag has adjustable bottom straps to set elevation, and textured ears to help hold the gun steady.  

The X-Bag Shooting rest is tall enough to use with modern carbines, has a lightweight polyfill and tips the scale at a mere 2 pounds. A more versatile bag set for static environments will be hard to come by. MSRP is $119.99.  

Wiebad DRC Fortune Cookie 

wiebad-fortune-cookie

Specs:

  • Weight: 6.2 pounds (standard) , 3 pounds (mini)
  • Dimensions: 8x7x5 inches (standard) , 7.5×4.5×6 inches (mini)
  • Material: 1000D Or Waxed Canvas
  • Fill: Polyfill
  • MSRP: Starts at $74.99
  • Website: wiebadgear.com

Pros:

  • Versatile, can be used as front or rear bag
  • Shape is ideal for both bench shooting and use off barricades/obstacles

Cons:

  • Rifle attachment provision sold separately

Wiebad's Fortune Cookie series features bags with a quasi-rabbit ear shape beloved by PRS shooters, but they’re useful for almost anyone. It can be employed as a rear bag or front rest, and it’s available with a water-resistant 1000D Cordura shell or waxed canvas in both standard and mini sizes.  

Polyfill is standard, but Wiebad will make one with a different fill on request. Standard size is 8x7x5 inches with a weight of 6.2 pounds, while minis are 7.5×4.5×6 inches and weigh 3 pounds. MSRP starts at $79.99 for the standard and $74.99 for the minis.   

CVLIFE Shooting Rest Bag

cvlife-shooting-bag

Specs:

  • Weight: 1 pound
  • Dimensions: 4.13×1.38×5.7 inches
  • Material: 1000D
  • Fill: Polymer BBs
  • MSRP: $30.79
  • Website: cvlife.com

Pros:

  • Portable size and weight
  • Affordable
  • Easily replaceable fill

Cons:

  • Subpar fill material
  • No means to attach to rifle

Another good budget offering, CVLIFE offers a lightweight, general-purpose mini bag that won't break the bank with an average price of about $25.

The shell is 1000D nylon, with four choices of color/pattern. The fill is poly BBs but they come in a removable inner pouch if you want to change the fill to something more substantial. The bag includes a carry strap for use as a rear bag or as a loop over the barrel. The bag is 4.13×1.38×5.7 inches and weighs 1 pound with the plastic bead filler.  

CrossTac Big Front Bag 

crosstac-big-front-bag

Specs:

  • Weight: 13 pounds
  • Dimensions: 9.5×9.5×7.5 inches
  • Material: 1000D
  • Fill: Ground walnut
  • MSRP: $49.99
  • Website: crosstac.com

Pros:

  • Large, easy to use
  • Very stable due to weight and shape
  • Can use with 30-round mags

Cons:

  • Only usable as front bag
  • Too large and heavy for field use

The Big Front Bag is a tall, heavy front bag perfect for shooting or zeroing any firearm. It has a pyramid shape to minimize wobble, textured ears and a non-skid bottom.  

The BFB is 9.5 inches tall at the ears, making it usable for any long gun including modern carbines. The shell is 1000D Cordura, with a coarse-ground walnut fill that's a little more flexible than corn cob media, but it also makes the bag heavy at 13 pounds. The shell is zippered if additional fill is desired. This is a great option for static shooting, but you won’t want to carry it around. MSRP is $49.95.  

Armageddon Gear X-Wing Large Enhanced Rear Shooting Bag 

Armageddon-x-wing

Specs:

  • Weight: Not specified
  • Dimensions: 8.5×7.75×2 inches
  • Material: Waxed canvas
  • Fill: Not specified
  • MSRP: Starts at $44.95
  • Website: armageddongear.com

Pros:

  • Small and portable
  • Three bag attachment options
  • Non-slip waxed canvas

Cons:

  • Only usable as rear bag

Designed as a squeezable rear bag, the X-Wing has an X-shape and a tacky waxed canvas shell to be gripped by the support hand. It’s available in multiple colors and with your choice of a nylon web loop, a QD socket or an HK clip for attachment options. MSRP starts at $44.95. 

Birchwood Casey Tactical Tac-Match Bag Set 

birchwood-casey-shooting-bag-set

Specs:

  • Weight: Not specified
  • Dimensions: Not specified
  • Material: Abrasion-resistant ballistic nylon
  • Fill: mid-weight
  • MSRP: $44.99
  • Website: birchwoodcasey.com

Pros:

  • Versatile bag set, can be used multiple ways
  • Tall enough to be used with 30-round mags

Cons:

  • No means to attach to rifle
  • Too large to be ideal for field use

An affordable front and rear bag set that’s tall enough to use with modern carbines. The rear bag also has two sets of ears, so it can be repositioned as the shooter needs. 

It features a woven nylon shell with textured fabric ears and a mid-weight fill. This is a good all-purpose front and rear bag set for a shooter who wants to cover multiple firearm platforms without breaking the bank. The dimensions and weight aren't listed, but it's tall enough to use with modern carbines and 30-round mags. MSRP is $44.99, but it can be found for as little as $30. 

Armageddon Gear Game Changer Shooting Bag 

Armageddon-game-changer

Specs:

  • Weight: 5 pounds (polyfill)
  • Dimensions: 9x6x7 inches
  • Material: 1000D
  • Fill: Polyfill or SpexLite
  • MSRP: Starts at $119.95
  • Website: armageddongear.com

Pros:

  • Incredibly versatile shape, ideal for most environments
  • Small and light enough for field use
  • Straps for attaching to rifle

Cons:

  • Expensive

The Game Changer is a favorite among top PRS competitors, as it is incredibly versatile. It works on irregular surfaces, off barricades or as a rear bag. The Game Changer has top straps that loop over the action/barrel too, so it can be left attached if desired.  

At 9x6x7 inches and a weight of 5 pounds with the standard polyfill media, it's only as big and heavy as it needs to be. The bag is zippered to adjust or replace the fill. Multiple color options are available, and MSRP is $119.95 for standard fill or $169.95 with the SpexLite fill material. 


Improve Your Marksmanship:

Arrowhead Tactical Apparel’s ROSE Line For Women

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A look at the Arrowhead Tactical Apparel ROSE line of dedicated concealed carry clothing for women.

It’s not always easy to carry a gun, especially when engaged in activities that necessitate clothing besides a proper pair of pants. Arrowhead Tactical Apparel is one of the companies trying to solve this problem with its athleisure wear designed from the ground up to allow the carrying of a firearm. The company’s Carrier Shorts and Carrier Joggers have proven very popular with men for this reason, but now women can take advantage as well with the ROSE line following its launch late last year.

Arrowhead-Tactical-Apparel-ROSE-carrier-joggers

Developed in partnership with ROSE by Sig Sauer, the line currently features two colors of ROSE Carrier Joggers (black and gray) and one color of ROSE Carrier Shorts (black). The clothes are functionally identical to the male versions but are instead catered to women’s body shapes and preferences.

Like all of Arrowhead Tactical’s pants and shorts, they enable the wearer to carry a handgun thanks to the internal belt loop system. Once your belt is installed and properly sized, it will keep the pants, an IWB holster and a handgun securely in place. When purchasing a pair, you have the option of adding Arrowhead’s OmniCarry retention belt for an additional fee, but the system is also compatible with most 1.5-inch belts.

Arrowhead-Tactical-Apparel-ROSE-line-drawing

Hana Bilodeau, Senior Instructor and Director of Training & Special Events for Sig Sauer, said this about the Arrowhead Tactical ROSE line:

The Arrowhead Tactical Apparel partnership with Rose by SIG SAUER is one that we are very proud of. This line of concealed carry apparel fills a void in the industry for women … Not only are the products fashion forward, but the garments are also made from top quality material. The design and structure provided by using the OmniCarry Retention Belt takes concealed carry retention to a whole new level. As a former federal officer, I am very particular about what I use for concealment products, this line by far exceeds my expectations.

ROSE Carrier Joggers have an MSRP of $87.99 and ROSE Carrier Shorts have an MSRP of $59.99. Including an Arrowhead Tactical belt will increase the price by another $18.

For more information, visit arrowheadtacticalapparel.com.


More Info For The Armed Woman:

Self-Defense Law: Castle Doctrine Vs. Stand Your Ground

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The author explains the difference between Castle Doctrine and Stand Your Ground and how they can affect you if you’re confronted with a deadly threat.

Castle Doctrine and Stand Your Ground (SYG) laws can be confusing, especially when misinformation in the self-defense community is spread by well-meaning people who simply want to abide by the law.

Before we can jump into SYG with both feet, let’s first discuss Duty to Retreat and how this important legal concept applies.

Duty To Retreat

All states have some form of Duty to Retreat statute. Most have no duty to retreat if certain conditions are met, while others have a duty to retreat prior to using deadly force, as long as it’s safe to do so.

For example, in my home state of Michigan, there’s no duty to retreat as long as you meet these four conditions:

  • 1) You are not in the commission of a crime;
  • 2) You are in a place you have a legal right to be;
  • 3) You have an honest and reasonable belief that deadly is necessary; and
  • 4) That deadly force is only to prevent imminent death, great bodily harm and/or sexual assault.

According to the most recent update from the National Association of State Legislatures, 28 states plus Puerto Rico have no duty to retreat from a deadly force attack as long as you are in a place you have a legal right to be lawfully present. A few states require you at least make an attempt to retreat to safety, as long as retreating doesn’t increase your risk of death or great bodily injury.

Skewed Public Perception

Stand Your Ground laws have found their way into the lexicon of the general public through what seems are weekly shootings across the United States. Although the news media try to define SYG, they usually make a poor attempt at explaining these laws, which further leads to the confusion and spread of misinformation.

So, essentially, SYG simply means you don’t have to retreat to safety, or try to escape the deadly force situation, as long as you meet the conditions laid out in your jurisdiction.

However, SYG isn’t quite that simple. If you can retreat, or avoid any fight, why wouldn’t you at least make an attempt to retreat to safety to avoid using deadly force? That said, sometimes using deadly force, or any level of force, requires that you act in the moment because there’s no time to retreat, or retreat alternative.

In Brown v. United States, 256 U.S. 335 (1921), an often-quoted U.S. Supreme Court decision even today, the Court held “that if a man reasonably believes that he is in immediate danger of death or grievous bodily harm from his assailant he may stand his ground, and that if he kills him he has not exceeded the bounds of lawful self-defense.”

Justice Oliver Wendell Holmes, in writing the Court’s opinion stated, “Detached reflection is not required in the face of an uplifted knife.” Therefore, back as far as 1921 (and even farther), we see SYG in the common law and held by the Supreme Court.

Certainly, other case law has developed in the previous 100 years; however, the legal concept has always been there. For the most part, states have codified common law into statutes for their jurisdictions; some make it easier to understand and others have confused the issue. Know the rules and conditions in all jurisdictions you live, work and travel.

How it All Applies to Your Castle

Castle Doctrine is considered an exception to Duty to Retreat. This doctrine, in its most simple form, means that one doesn’t have to retreat from their own home (castle) before using deadly force. Even though you may have a back door exit or could climb out of a window to relative safety, there’s no need to do so.

In 1753, English jurist Sir William Blackstone published his four-volume set titled Commentaries on the Laws of England. England owned many colonies around the world, and the English laws sometimes didn’t make it to these outlying colonies and territories. Therefore, judges were left to make their own law as cases were presented to them. Blackstone’s purpose was to bring consistency of English law to all subjects of the Crown throughout the world.

In so many words, Blackstone opined that a man’s house is sacred and should be the last stronghold of immunity to attack. If someone attacks you in your home, you may defend against their attack with deadly force. That was Blackstone’s belief.

But you must be careful, because you can’t just shoot someone who breaks in to you castle. In most jurisdictions, you still can only defend against deadly force when deadly force is presented to you.

Outlying Factors

There are a few exceptions to the Castle Doctrine that need mentioning.

One exception is if your attacker lives in the same household, or in the house you own but you don’t live there. Think domestic situations. Some jurisdictions require you to retreat, in your own home, if your attacker lives with you, before using deadly force.

Even if you own the home but your ex-spouse has a court order keeping you out, you cannot use Castle Doctrine. What about a guest living in your home with you? Retreat may be required. If a person has a legal right to enter your home (police with warrant, child protective services or spouse), then Castle Doctrine is off the table.

The curtilage of your home is important as well. Some states include the curtilage as part of your home. The curtilage is defined as that area immediately surrounding your domicile. Some states will extend curtilage to the sidewalk or steps that are just beyond your porch, and a few states are very restrictive by only including the porch.

In Michigan, curtilage has expanded in recent years to include the flower bed area, as long as it’s in near proximity to the dwelling. How’s that for confusion? Some states might consider the detached garage as part of the curtilage, while others consider an attached garage as part of the home.

The pole barn or structure on the back forty? Not a part of your home as far as Castle Doctrine is concerned. Some jurisdictions have extended Castle Doctrine to your vehicle and your place of business.

But, you must keep this in mind: You can’t just shoot someone you find in your home. You must still have an honest and reasonable belief deadly force is necessary.

When I give legal lectures in educational environments, people still believe if someone breaks into my house, I can simply shoot them. No, not exactly. Again, in Michigan, people confuse this with our Rebuttable Presumption. Other states have it as well.

A rebuttable presumption means that it’s presumed that you have a legal right to use deadly force, with an honest and reasonable belief, simply because a person is in your home unlawfully, but that presumption can be rebutted by the prosecution if there’s any evidence that shows otherwise.

Such evidence could include a witness, a video camera, security camera or other information that can clearly show you didn’t have an honest and reasonable belief that you need to use deadly force. Video might show the criminal’s hands in the air giving up in the face of your gun. You shoot them anyway. Your self-defense claim just went out the window.

Learn Your Local Laws

So, Stand Your Ground and Castle Doctrine, although similar in some respects, are very different. You must still meet the conditions set forth in your jurisdiction, you must still have an honest and reasonable belief that deadly force is a necessity, the attack must be imminent (no opportunity to retreat), and you can’t claim self-defense if you are in the commission of a crime.

If you can retreat safely, without using deadly force, it’s best to do so. But if your attacker pursues you or doesn’t give you an opportunity to retreat, then you may have to resort to deadly force.

Check your jurisdiction and all those places you work, travel and reside. It’s a lot to consider if you choose to carry a firearm.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Knowledge For The Armed Citizen:

Why Drum Magazines Couldn’t Keep The Beat

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A look back at drum magazines, their pros and cons and why they’ve fallen out of favor for professional and military use.

Drum magazines, those big, round mags that store cartridges in a spiral rather than in a flat stack, have been around for longer than you might realize. While once a relatively common sight in the hands of soldiers around the world, the drum magazine has since largely fallen out of favor with militaries and armed professionals.

There are a few that remain popular on the civilian market for several different platforms (because more bullets is always better when fun is the priority), but drum magazines are now rare compared to box magazines and belt-fed weapons in professional and military settings.

Soviet-WWII-PPSh-41-Degtyaryov
Drum magazines were relatively common during WWII. Here, three Soviet soldiers are holding two PPSh-41 SMGs and a Degtyaryov LMG, all equipped with drum mags.

So, let's talk about drum magazine history, how they work and what you should know before trying to assemble a full kit based around several Magpul D-60s.

A Brief History Of Drum Magazines 

The first device that could be considered a drum magazine was designed in the 1850s (patented in 1853 by Charles N. Tyler) as a loading mechanism for revolvers, with the ramrod pushing a paper cartridge from a drum into the cylinder., While noteworthy, and an interesting invention, it’s not quite what we think of when people refer to drum magazines today.

Tyler-revolver-drum-magazine-patent
The original Tyler patent, the predecessor to modern drum magazines. Photo: Google Patents.

The first truly modern drum magazine emerged in the early 1900s with the 32-round “snail magazine” (Schneckenmagazine) for the Luger P08. Typically issued with the longer-barreled, shoulder stock-equipped Artillery Luger, these saw combat during WWI.

Officially called the LP08 (Lange Pistole, for the 7.9-inch barrel), it saw some service with artillery crews, the Luftwaffe and occasionally with some infantry units, but these primordial pistol-caliber carbines otherwise saw limited use. However, the drum magazine itself was also used by the MP 18 submachine gun at the end of World War I and again in World War II. 

Artillery-Luger-drum-magazine-RIAC
An Artillery Luger equipped with its stock and 32-round drum magazine. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

The most common use of drum magazines from that point forward was with submachine guns, although they’d be developed for rifles and machine guns as well.  

The Soviet PPSh-41, the Finnish Suomi and the Thompson are some prominent SMG examples. The Thompson was originally designed to use either a 20-round box magazine or a 50-round drum magazine, though 100-round drums would eventually be made as well.

Outside of submachine guns, even historically, the use of drum magazines has been more limited. Some early machine gun designs such as the Lewis Gun and the Degtyaryov used a variation of the concept known as pan magazines. In the 1960s, drums got another boost of life when the Soviets developed and started widely issuing them with the RPK (the light machine gun version of the AK). 

Lewis-Gun-RIAC
A Lewis Gun with its pan magazine, a version of the drum magazine. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

Past the RPK, the development of new drum magazines became a rarer and rarer sight. The Soviets didn’t even issue a new version of it for the RPK-74 after switching to 5.45×39, opting for larger box magazines instead (although a new 5.45 drum mag was developed in 2016 for the RPK-16, it's yet to be widely issued). As it stands today, when it comes to the firearms used by modern militaries and armed professionals, box mags and belt-feds have firmly secured their place as the global standard.

How Does A Drum Magazine Work?  

There are a few different designs of drum magazines, but in almost all cases the basic mechanical principles remain the same.  

Rather than being stacked next to each other in rows of either one, two or more as what happens in traditional box magazines, in a drum magazine, ammunition is instead coiled in a spiral inside the mag’s body.

AR-Beta-C-mag
This rear view of a loaded Beta C-Mag with a transparent back gives a good idea of how bullets feed through a drum magazine. Photo: Wikipedia.

To load, the magazine is (usually, but not always) disassembled, and the ammunition can be individually placed into their proper positions. The magazine is then reassembled and the user winds the spring until set to the desired tension for proper feeding. Again, some of the more modern designs can be loaded like a normal magazine without disassembling or winding.  

When firing, the spring tension pushes on the follower to feed ammunition towards where it can feed into the firearm, just like a normal magazine.

Some drum magazines have a feed tower like a conventional box magazine but others do not.  

The aforementioned pan magazine variant essentially functions the same way except for the orientation of the bullets (the rounds face the center of a pan magazine rather than being parallel with the firearm’s action). This difference is why guns that use pan magazines can typically only use pan magazines, whereas most guns that use traditional drum magazines can also use box magazines since both designs feed rounds in the same direction.

Lewis-Gun-pan-magazine
A loaded Lewis Gun pan magazine. Photo: Wikipedia.

Why The Military Doesn't Use Drum Magazines 

Militaries generally don't use drum magazines anymore for two main reasons:

  • They’ve historically proven to be less reliable than traditional box magazines or belt-feed systems
  • They actually decrease the total ammunition loadout that an individual soldier can carry.

Consider this for a moment.  

The PMAG D-60 (Magpul’s 60-round 5.56 drum magazine for ARs) is 7.4 inches tall and about 4 inches wide at its thickest point. Fully loaded, it weighs roughly 46 ounces.  

One Gen 3 PMAG, more or less the gold standard for AR-15 magazines, is 7.5 inches tall, 3.1 inches front to back and just under an inch wide. Fully loaded, they weigh about 16 ounces.  

One D-60 occupies the space of three 30-round PMAGs and weighs about the same to boot. In terms of the total amount of ammunition compared to the space the mag takes up, the D-60 provides 60 rounds for the price of 90. That may not matter for plinking at the range, but if you have to carry your own supply of ammunition, that makes a huge difference. And that doesn’t even take into account the awkward shape of drum magazines that prevent them from easily being stored in pouches.

drum-magazine-size-comparison
The same size comparison made above but with a 75-round drum and three 30-round 7.62 AK mags. The point remains the same, the three box mags combined hold more rounds and are much easier to carry.

Even though Magpul’s drum magazine is relatively new in the grand scheme of things, this problem isn’t.

Thompson 50-round drum mags occupy more space than three 20-round box magazines. While Thompson drums were issued by the U.S. Army and the U.S. Marine Corps in the 1920s and 30s (including some action in the Banana Wars, among other limited engagements of the period) they were not widely issued in World War II and only saw limited use in the early years. Instead, as the Thompson was refined into the M1 and M1A1 models, the Army removed the ability of the guns to accept drum mags at all.

Another common complaint regarding drum mags was the noise they made in the field. Unlike box magazines, where cartridges are mostly held tightly in place by the spring tension, cartridges are held much more loosely in a drum. When you walk, they rattle.  

Further, while most of the commonly used drum magazines of the 20th century were reliable enough, they were never as reliable as the tried-and-true box mag.

Mechanically speaking, pushing something in a straight line is easy. Pushing bullets in a spiral is not as easy. This simple principle will always prevent the best drum mags from being as reliable as the best box magazines.   

Failures to feed have classically been the biggest issue plaguing drum magazines, along with the additional requirements for maintenance, loading and so on. It's just easier to deal with box magazines, and they tend to work a heck of a lot better, especially on the scale that militaries operate on.

So, while some very good drum mags have been designed and used to great effect over the past century of warfare, the lesson learned seems to be that their downsides outweigh their benefits enough for the concept to be mostly abandoned. If sustained fire is your goal, belt-feds are a much better solution.

Pros And Cons Of Drum Mags

While the pros and cons of drum mags are the same for both militaries and individual recreational shooters on the surface, the context for their use completely changes things. When your life isn’t on the line, a minor hit to potential reliability is acceptable. When you don’t need to haul your own gear for miles, weight and bulk are irrelevant. When shooting is your hobby, cleaning and maintaining a more complicated device isn’t the end of the world. Point being, a drum mag can still be an excellent thing to have on hand for today’s modern shooter.

For plinking at the range or participating in the appropriate competitions, there are some well-made modern drum mags available for ARs of various calibers, 10/22s and PCCs. Most of these are generally considered to be reliable, and when working properly they could definitely save you a reload and some seconds when on the clock.

Magpul-Scorpion-PCC-drum-magazine
A CZ Scorpion EVO in 9mm equipped with a Magpul PMAG D-50 drum magazine.

For AKs, military surplus drums are considered the best quality, especially top-loaders from Russia or Romania. The commercial reproductions from China are usually more finicky, but even they can run well enough for range fun.

If you have an old-school AR-15, a Beta C-Mag can also be an excellent complement to enhance its retro vibes. Most other relatively common guns in question that can accept a drum mag are either original historical firearms or reproductions, such as the Thompson. If you own something like that, you might as well pick up a drum mag too just to complete the package.

AK-drum-magazine
A Romanian top-loading drum magazine for 7.62 AKs. A fun toy, but not very useful.

Historically, a common trend of civilian firearms is that they take inspiration from what the military is using. In the case of drum mags, it’s generally a good idea to follow suit. Given the number of guns equipped with drum mags that were developed and used in the past 100 years, nobody can say that the concept didn’t get a fair shake. They were tried, saw some success, but ultimately didn’t offer any benefit great enough for them to live on in a world of box mags and belt-feds. If you’re considering buying one for practical purposes, especially relating to defense, you’ll be better off with a box mag. Even extended models will be more reliable than a drum.  

If plinking, LARPing, collecting or competing is your aim, however, drum mags can still be very fun. Plus, if nothing else, their existence helps to ensure that 30 rounds is the definition of standard capacity.


More On Mags & Clips:

First Look: Vortex Banshee And Jackal Shooting Glasses

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Vortex Optics has just launched its first eyewear, featuring two styles of glasses that offer protection from both the sun and the dangers of the range.

When you’re around gunfire, you need to be wearing ballistic eye protection. Everyone who shoots steel targets with handguns has felt some shrapnel come back at them before. When it’s in the leg, no problem, but you don’t want that hitting your eye. When it comes to shooting safety glasses, however, not all offer protection against the sun as well, and even fewer look good while doing it. Vortex Optics has decided to try and tackle all three at the same time with its new line of Jackal and Banshee eyewear.

vortex-eyewear-shooting-glasses

The Vortex Eyewear line currently features two styles of glasses, each available with your choice of lens color. The Jackal is more of a sport or wraparound style, and the Banshee is more of a classic wayfarer style. Whichever model suits you better, both offer the same benefits. Primarily, that includes shatter-resistant lenses and construction featuring ballistic-rated materials to protect your eyes at the range. For comfortable use while shooting, they also have anti-reflective properties, a non-slip bridge and temples and they’re designed to be worn with earmuffs. And, of course, the scratch- and smudge-resistant lenses are polarized and offer 100% UV protection.

vortex-eyewear-glasses

Both styles of Vortex Eyewear are available now and share an MSRP of $179.99. Each pair will also ship with a protective case and a microfiber cloth and are backed by Vortex’s lifetime VIP warranty.

For more information, visit vortexoptics.com.


More On Personal Protective Equipment:

Hardware Talk: Midwest Industries Receiver Block

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For anyone who enjoys working on their AR-15s without marring the finish, the Midwest Industries Lower Receiver Block is a great tool to have.

Handling an AR-15 lower—while also assembling it, tightening something or just making it behave—can be a hassle. Midwest Industries (MI) has a solution, and their lower receiver block serves you in two ways.

First, you can simply slap the block down on your workbench and fit the receiver into it, nestled in place. It’ll stay put while you install the hammer and trigger pins and the trigger guard, even making it stay put while you hand-screw the buffer tube in place. (You’ll need more than the MI block to do the torquing and staking.)

While you’re doing this, the smaller section of the MI block has a recessed tray, where you can put the small parts you’ll need. No worries about them rolling off the bench or getting bumped by an inadvertent sleeve or put-down screwdriver. Nope, they’re safe in the recess.

If you want to view the interior as you install the fire control parts, you can. Simply take the block and slide the narrower part up into the magazine well. Yes, it’s shaped like a magazine for a reason. Now, clamp the bigger part of the MI block in your vise. You can now work on the lower, install and inspect as they function, or the fire control parts, without having to juggle the receiver in one hand while working with the other.

Midwest-Industries-receiver-block
The Midwest Industries receiver block handles a lot of tasks and does so without risking marring your receiver.

Being bright blue, it won’t glare in your shop lights, but it also won’t let parts hide, as a black or dark material might. Also, as a relatively soft polymer, it won’t ding your lower or mar the finish. I know some of you want to keep your build as pristine as possible. (Some of us use our rifles.)

As if all this wasn’t enough, MI added one more function: a gas block gas tube installation recess. The hard part of getting a gas system assembled can be getting the blasted tiny roll pin driven into the gas block, with the gas tube in place.

I dare you to find a non-marring position in your bench vise to clamp the block in, with an orientation of the gas block that allows you to drive the pin in. I’ve been wrestling with AR-15s for 35 years now, and that’s the part I hate the most.

The block is designed to work with forged receivers, so if you have a milled one, it might not be as nice a fit as MI intended it to be. They offer it in AR-15 and AR-10 sizes in one color: blue. Now, I’ve been wrestling with AR-15s for so long that I have some bad habits. I’ve found workarounds to get things done … doing them without fixtures. But I’m going to have to add this to the AR-15 toolbox, because it’s so useful for the things it does that it earned space in the kit.

Forty bucks may seem like a bit much for “a simple piece of plastic,” as one person I showed it to commented, but don’t be fooled: Not 5 minutes later he was asking to borrow it.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Tools & Gunsmithing:

Walther P38: Father Of The Modern Service Pistol 

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If you’re a fan of double-action/single-action 9mm service pistols, you owe a lot to the Walther P38.

The Walther P38 was the Wehrmacht’s less expensive replacement for the iconic P08 Luger pistol. The P08 was reliable and well-liked by the German Army, so you might assume that a cheaper gun would suffer from lower reliability or generally worse construction. Of course, this wasn’t the case.

While Walther may have primarily set out to design a pistol that would be cheap and efficient to mass-produce, the company ended up developing what would become one of the most influential handguns of the 20th century.

Not only did the Walther P38’s construction utilize manufacturing techniques that were then considered nontraditional, like a stamped steel slide cover and polymer grips, but also innovative features like a double-action/single-action trigger, a decocking safety lever, a loaded chambered indicator and large combat sights. These would soon become incredibly common features on pistols following WWII. Between that period and the advent of polymer-framed striker-fired pistols, DA/SA hammer-fired guns reigned supreme, and the Walther P38 was the first of that description to be adopted as a standard military sidearm.

walther-p38-1
An early Walther P38. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

Even today, plenty of Walther P38s are still in use, and all things considered they remain quite an effective choice compared to many other surplus military pistols of its era. There are obviously more modern options available now, but the P38 continues to see use around the world along with more modern pistols that were heavily inspired by it.

Walther PP On Steroids 

Development of the Walther P38 took about six years and started in 1932 when the German Army began looking for a replacement for the P08. The Luger is a machinist’s nightmare, featuring metal parts that need to be hand-fitted. This results in more time spent producing the pistols, making each one more costly in terms of both money and time efficiency.

walther-pp
A Walther PP, the father of the P38. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

Walther introduced the PP (Police Pistol) in 1929 and it almost immediately became one of the most popular handgun choices for European law enforcement, both inside and outside of Germany. The PP itself was an influential design and was the first truly commercially successful double-action pistol produced. The PP used a simple straight blowback action, a double-action/single-action trigger and a decocking safety lever located on the slide. The German Army liked the 9x19mm cartridge, so Walther figured it would just scale the PP up to 9mm and everything would be wunderbar for the Wehrmacht.

The PP is chambered for .32 Auto or 7.65mm Browning as it is called in Europe. Walther super-sized the PP and called it the MP/PP, a gun that was nearly identical to the PP but chambered for the larger 9x19mm cartridge. While the idea sounded good on paper, in practice, the 9mm cartridge was too powerful for a simple blowback mechanism. 

walther-mp
The Walther MP/PP. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

More P38 Prototypes, More Changes 

The next design was also called the MP or Military Pistol, but it used an entirely different mechanism in the form of a locked breech, a system that was much better suited for the powerful 9mm cartridge. Features included a shrouded hammer, an open bridge slide design and an extractor located on its top. Only a handful were built because the slide tended to jump off the frame when fired. Not a desirable trait.  

It was back to the drawing board for Walther, and by about 1935 the design had evolved and now featured a bridge on the front of the slide to keep it from jumping out of the rails. This model was called the Armee-Pistole or Army Pistol, but collectors refer to it as the AP following the naming convention Walther used previously. The AP used a similar mechanism to the previous MP. Some features of both the MP and the AP eventually made their way into the P38 design such as the slide stop and take down lever. Since the AP was again more of a research and development gun, very few were produced. The AP still didn’t cut the mustard as far as the German Army was concerned, so work on the design continued.  

walther-ap
The Walther Armee-Pistole. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

The next revision reverted to the MP nomenclature and changed the shrouded, enclosed hammer to an exposed, round hammer. The extractor was moved to the left side of the slide giving the new and improved MP that characteristic flat-sided slide found on the final Walther P38. At this point, the design was almost completed.

Commercially Known As The HP 

The HP or Heerespistole was the next and final iteration. This model incorporated a spur hammer instead of a rounded hammer, and the extractor on the HP was now exposed instead of hidden under the slide like on the second model MP. The polymer grips fit together to form the rear backstrap which saved on the steel for the frame. The HP was the first pistol of this line to become available for commercial sales and military markets, and it would soon be tested by the German Army and quickly adopted and formally renamed the P38 in 1938. Sweden adopted the HP as the M39 pistol in 1939 as well. Some 24,000 to 30,000 HP pistols were sold on the commercial market before World War II broke out and Walther shifted all production to military needs. 

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The Walther Model HP with its wooden grips. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

The mechanisms of the HP and P38 pistols are identical. They are virtually the same gun aside from their roll marks and a few minor differences like grip material. That said, the P38 would feature multiple different grip styles over its production life.

How Does The Walther P38 Work? 

When the P38 is fired, a wedge-shaped falling block keeps the slide and barrel locked together until enough pressure has dissipated to allow the slide to reciprocate safely rearward. The locking block stops barrel movement and allows the slide to continue rearward to eject the empty case and cock back the hammer. Dual recoil springs return the slide forward to chamber a round. This system is different than most other pistol designs today which typically use a Browning tilting barrel action.

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A field-stripped P38 and its holster.

The 9mm P38 feeds from an 8-round single-stack magazine. Unique to the P38 at the time was a loaded chamber indicator. A metal pin protrudes from the rear of the slide when a round is chambered, providing both visible and tactile indications. The decocker safety located on the slide allows the user to decock the hammer and safely carry it with a round in the chamber.

Another important feature of the Walther P38 is of course its double-action/single-action trigger. While this became an incredibly common attribute of military handguns post-WWII, it was the first widely issued service pistol to include it. The pistol’s sights were very ahead of their time as well. Larger than average and offering a good sight picture, they’re definitely faster to use than most tiny military handgun irons of the era. The magazine release is located on the butt of the grip and the left grip has a metal loop to attach a lanyard. 

Wartime P38 Production 

By the end of WWII, over one million P38 pistols had been manufactured. While Walther had the highest output, it was not the only factory to make them as Mauser and Spreewerk were contracted to do so as well.

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This P38's factory code “ac 42” means that it was made at the Walther factory in 1942. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

During the war, manufacturers were assigned codes to confuse the Allies where production was located. Walther produced the initial run of pistols using the Walther logo from 1937 to about mid-1940, at which time Walther switched to its military “480” identification marking during production from mid-1940 through October of 1942. After, Walther used the code “ac” until the end of the war. Mauser used the code “byf” and Spreewerk used the code “cyq”, although there were some other codes used near the end of the war as well. The codes are roll marked on the left side of the slide, and on Walthers and Mausers this was usually followed by the year of production. This means that a pistol marked with “byf 43” is a Mauser made in 1943. If trying to identify a P38 yourself, there are more detailed guides available in books and online that will cover the nuances and caveats not mentioned here.

Postwar WWII P38 Production And Variants 

After the war, West Germany’s Bundeswehr geared up again with the P38 after Walther retooled and rebuilt the factory out of the rubble of WWII. Postwar P38 production ran from 1957 to 1963.   

In 1963, Walther launched the P1 model which replaced the steel frame with an aluminum one and introduced a few other small changes. Commercial P1 guns were produced in 9mm as well as .30 Luger and .22 Long Rifle, and they were also manufactured by Manurhin in France under license. Amazingly, Germany did not start replacing its P1s until the 1990s, a testament to the original design that let it remain in service as a viable military sidearm for nearly six decades.

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A Walther P4 (top) and a Walther P1. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

A P4 variant was produced in the late 1970s with a shorter 4.5-inch barrel and several other minor improvements. This gun was issued to various German law enforcement agencies, but it was only created as a stopgap measure and produced in relatively small numbers as the more advanced Walther P5 was already in development.

One rare and unique variant of the P38 worth mentioning is the P38K, which features an abbreviated, snub-nose barrel with the front sight attached to the bridge of the slide. The “K” in the model names is an abbreviation of the German word “kurz” which translates to short. Walther used the same naming convention for the PPK, the smaller version of the PP.   

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A Walther P38K. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

The P38 In Action 

Not only did the Wehrmacht use the P38 on all fronts during WWII, but it was also issued to the Gestapo and many units of the SS. The P38 performed well and was extremely popular with troops. Not only was the P38 reliable and more rugged than the P08 it replaced, but it was much easier to disassemble and maintain. What the P38 lacked in sleek looks, it made up for in performance. American GIs were not familiar with a pistol like the P38, as the double-action/single-action trigger was odd and foreign compared to the revolvers and single-action 1911s they were accustomed to. 

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An American soldier holding a German officer and his first sergeant prisoner with the officer's P38.

Dozens of different countries would go on to use the P38 after WWII, resulting in the pistol seeing action in several of the conflicts that followed. American soldiers in Vietnam would encounter the P38 as captured guns were given to the North by the Soviet Union as military aid, and the pistol showed up in many conflicts in the Middle East as well.

Collecting the P38 

GIs returning home from WWII brought back battlefield pick-up P38s as souvenirs. These guns have no importation marks and have a higher value than guns that do have import marks. If you plan on collecting P38s from WWII, you’ll typically find pistols that are very well-worn or nicer examples that were refinished by the Soviet Union after being captured. That said, the few out there that still have their original finish in excellent condition can fetch a very pretty penny. The finish on wartime production guns is usually lower than the quality of pre- and post-war guns, and quality worsened as the war went on. P38s from 1940 will have been made with a lot more care than what Germany could afford by 1945.

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A P38 made at the Walther factory in 1941. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

There are many very wealthy collectors out there with an interest in WWII German firearms, so original P38s naturally fetch incredibly high prices. Value depends on factors like the manufacturer, condition, rarity and provenance, but regardless, you should be prepared to pay over $1,000 if you’re interested in even an average example of WWII vintage. If you’re looking for a shooter rather than a safe queen, look for mismatched serial numbers or just consider buying one that was produced after the war.

Surplus P38s 

After WWII, large quantities of P38s were captured by Soviet troops and shipped back to Soviet arsenals for refinishing. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, many Soviet-captured P38s were dumped onto the U.S. commercial surplus market. Most of these pistols have been refinished and have mismatched serial numbers, and they often have “X” marks over the old serial number and other German markings like swastikas removed or stamped over. Beware if a WWII P38 looks too pristine at first glance because there’s a good chance it's a refurb and not in original condition. With that in mind, even a Soviet-captured refinished P38 will be more valuable to collectors than one produced after the war’s end.

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A Soviet captured and refurbished P38. Notice the large X mark on its side. Photo: Rock Island Auction Company.

By comparison, P1 variants are widely available on the surplus market. Many of these guns were used by European law enforcement before being imported into the U.S. These do not have nearly the value of wartime P38s, and you can still routinely find them for $500 to $800. Some even come with a surplus holster and extra magazines. I picked up a P1 for a song a few years back, but like all surplus, prices rise as supplies dry. If you want one, buying sooner is better than later.

The P38 Lives On 

Many of the features of the Walther P38 would go on to influence successful pistols designed after it, but the gun most directly inspired by it is of course the Beretta 92, later adopted by the U.S. Army as the M9. Other guns would merely take inspiration from the P38 with features such as a DA/SA trigger and the use of stamped sheet metal and polymers in their construction. Its 9mm chambering has also obviously become the global standard for handgun cartridges. Frankly, the single-stack magazine is the pistol’s most dated design aspect. If a P38 was all you had access to, it still would be a very effective pistol for personal defense.

If you’ve never shot a P38, you should, as that’s the only way to truly understand just how modern it still feels for a design that’s over 80 years old.


More Classic Military Guns:

The Greener: There’s Nothing Quite Like A Double-Barrel Shotgun

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A look back at the Greener, because nothing gets a young shotgunner’s attention like touching off both barrels—simultaneously!

The first shotgun I ever fired was a 20-gauge J. C. Higgins single-barrel single shot. It belonged to the wife of a close family friend, one of two hunting and shooting mentors I had as a kid. I believe Stevens made the gun, but back then, it was marketed under the J. C. Higgins label by Sears, Roebuck and Company. 

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This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest 2024, 78th edition.

As was typical of that type of single-barrel shotgun, it was very light and gave a healthy jolt with standard loads. So, to offset the recoil, my mentor loaded a few cartridges with about half an ounce of shot and reduced powder. In short, he made .410 loads in 20-gauge hulls. I shot at a tin can about 15 yards away; it was the first time I fired a shotgun. It was a good thing that it hardly kicked since, at age 12, I wasn’t a large kid. I was kind of scrawny, about 90 pounds soaking wet!

A few months after shooting the powder-puff 20 gauge, I shot a regular 12-gauge load at a live target. I was out with an uncle, my other childhood mentor, hunting. We had been after partridge and drove to one of his “secret” spots after an unsuccessful hunt in one area. While driving, my uncle suddenly stopped and pointed at a tree about 30 yards away. A crow sat on the top branch. We exited the car, and he assembled his shotgun from its case, a W. W. Greener 12 gauge with double triggers and side safety.

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This FH25 is like the old Greener the author’s uncle owned. That gun had the original horn buttplate, and the wood showed just a bit more grain. Otherwise, this one is like that old gun.

He loaded both barrels with those wonderfully aromatic waxed green paper Remington Express loads with round yellow paper stickers on the crimp marked with the shot size. He checked to ensure the gun was on safe, then handed it to me and said to aim, take it off safe, and shoot. If I missed with the first barrel and the crow started to fly off, I was to pull the rear trigger for the second barrel. He reminded me to “lead” the crow if it was flying. Eagerly, I took the gun from his hands and attempted to do as I was told. I aligned the bead on the crow and took the safety off. Then I pulled the trigger, or at least I thought I had pulled the front trigger, but apparently, I did more than that.

The shot was thunderous and almost knocked me off my feet! I missed entirely, and the crow disappeared before I could shoot again. My uncle laughed as I stood there somewhat dazed, staring at the Greener that kicked like a mule. He took the gun from me, thumbed the top lever, and popped two empties. In my excitement, I pulled both triggers at the same time. It was quite a shock, and I never repeated that mistake.

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This Greener Model F35 has rather nice wood, nothing spectacular, but nicely grained.

I later shot that wonderful Greener more successfully, pulling one trigger at a time. I discovered that it did not have a vicious kick at all. I often shot those mild, maroon-colored, low-base Remington Shur-Shot loads, and the recoil was minimal. It was a game gun and weighed about 61/2 pounds, the same as my uncle’s other game guns. My uncle was a wealthy man and a hunting fanatic who owned many shotguns, all 12 gauges. As far as he was concerned, the 12 gauge was the only bore size worth shooting. He owned a successful company, and he concentrated on hunting for about four months each year during the hunting season. During that time, he rarely visited his office except in emergency cases, leaving the company business in the hands of his deputy.

He used to jokingly say that if Clark Gable, the reigning “King of Hollywood” at that time, could take off during hunting season, so could he. (Gable was famous for having a clause in his contract with MGM Studio that specified he would not make any movies during hunting season.) My uncle may not have been the “King of Hollywood,” but he had his priorities straight.

It was from this uncle that I learned about fine English and European doubles. He had a Purdey, a Holland & Holland, and some fine Belgian guns, including a Jules Bury, which he said was as good as any English Best Gun. However, despite all these guns, it was apparent that he preferred to shoot the Greener. The two guns he shot the most were the Greener and a Belgian boxlock “Guild Gun” with no name, which he told me Francotte made. He didn’t shoot his Best Guns with finer pedigrees as much.

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Many years later, he surprised me with his generosity and presented me with one of his prized guns, the Holland & Holland. It was a beautiful Royal Model, and I was grateful for this unexpected and priceless gift, but to be honest, I secretly wished it had been the Greener instead.  There was something about that old Greener that made it special. The Holland & Holland was a superb gun and felt like a magic wand in my hands, and it came in a fancy oak and leather trunk case. But I had never shot it before and hadn’t developed the connection and feeling I had for that old Greener. The Greener felt solid yet light and like magic, at least for me. That was many years ago, and much time had passed since that Greener gave me such a wallop.

I still remember that Greener very well. Its trigger guard tang, worn white, had the serial number followed by “Grade FH25” engraved. The bluing on the barrels was thin, especially in front of the forearm, where it was held by the forward hand. The color casehardening on the receiver was gone entirely, making the receiver appear to have a pickled gray finish. The barrel flats were stamped with Birmingham proof marks and 2¾ inches and 1¼ ounces. Both barrels were stamped “choke,” but my uncle told me that the left barrel was “half choke” while the right was “quarter choke.” I knew, from reading articles about shotguns, that “half choke” meant modified and “quarter choke” was improved cylinder. The stock, though not fancy, was attractive with lightly grained wood and had that distinctive Greener trademark rounded Prince of Wales grip, which was almost a straight grip, and it had a horn buttplate. The wood finish had numerous scratches and minor dents but was otherwise still in good shape.

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The Greener in two parts.

I cleaned the gun thoroughly each time after shooting and lightly oiled everything. I would then slip the barrels with its forearm and the receiver with its stock into their frayed, oil-stained red flannel cloth sleeves. Then, I would put the two parts into the much worn and scuffed old leather leg o’ mutton case in which it was kept. The top lid of the case was stamped “W. W. Greener, Ltd” with an image of an elephant, a Greener trademark. My uncle kept his other guns in the cabinet, but there was no space for all his firearms, so the Greener and several others stayed outside. Besides, he shot the Greener the most, so he kept it handy.

Through the years, I have owned a couple of Greeners. I once had a worn-out Empire-Grade Greener that had belonged to an old duck hunter who shot it every duck season for over half a century. I got the gun more for sentimental reasons than actual use, and it was pretty beaten up, badly off-face, and its side safety did not work. It had consumed its share of heavy loads, perhaps too many. I kept it for a while, never actually shooting it before trading it for something else. I also had a very early Damascus-barreled high-grade Greener that was a nice gun and proofed for 23/4-inch loads, but it was not quite to my liking, so it also left my house.  

My current Greener is an FH35, a grade higher than that old one I shot as a kid. According to Greener records, it was made “between the wars” for sale in America with its factory single selective trigger and 26-inch barrels. It is a light upland gun, a few ounces lighter than my uncle’s old Greener, and being a grade higher, slightly finer with more engraving and better wood on the buttstock. It, too, has the shallow, rounded wisp of a Prince of Wales grip on a very nicely grained stock with dark streaks.

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This 12-bore Greener is light at 6 pounds, 4 ounces, as light or lighter than most modern 20 bores. It makes for an excellent upland gun with its 26-inch barrels and open boring.

I suspect it was initially purchased by a grouse and woodcock hunter or a bobwhite enthusiast. It came to me in an old, restored canvas and leather Brady case. I don’t know whether the case was initially purchased with the gun, but the shotgun is nicely fitted to the case, which has been relined with new fabric.

The Greener I own today is not a Best Gun. It is a Birmingham boxlock, albeit a very lovely graded model. But, just as my uncle of long ago seemed to prefer his old Greener over other, more costly and pedigreed guns, I too like this Greener a lot. It is choked cylinder in the right barrel and modified in the left, an excellent combination for upland gunning. I haven’t shot it much, not as much as I once shot my uncle’s old FH25. But I did take it out after quail and dove a few times, and it did its job perfectly, as long as I did my part.

Since my introduction to shotguns with my uncle’s old Greener gave me such a violent jolt, I have always been partial to Greener shotguns. Some dislike the Greener cross-bolt, considering it an unnecessary appendage. Others don’t like the side safety. Yet others claim Greeners are nothing but Birmingham “working guns,” not as finely made as London guns. I find it to be quite the opposite. In my experience, Greeners are as well made as any London gun. Granted, their basic models, like the Empire Grade, are not as finely finished as the London “best guns,” but they don’t cost the price of a small house!

Like the Royal Grade, the top-grade Greener boxlocks are as finely made as any London Best sidelock. And Greener made very fine sidelocks that are as good as the London counterparts and cost as much. However, the boxlock gave Greener worldwide fame; the proprietary boxlock action called “Facile Princeps” with its famous Greener top lock and side safety.

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The Greener in its perfectly fitted “restored” Brady case. The author is unsure whether the case initially came with the gun or was a later addition.

A Greener will last as long as any London gun, maybe even outlast it.  Not surprisingly, when Winchester held a torture test for its Model 21, shooting thousands of rounds of unreasonably heavy overloads, all other guns, including London Best Guns, broke down early on. Only the Greener hung on for a while longer, although it couldn’t keep up with the tank-like, overbuilt Model 21.

But my fondness for the Greener is not based on its strength. It is simply that it was a Greener that I shot first as a kid. So for me, a Greener will always hold a special place.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest 2024, 78th edition.

Our Best Advice on Shotguns: Guides and Tutorials

Battle Of The Big-Bore AR-15s

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When too much still isn’t enough, it may be time to consider a big-bore AR-15.

Just what is a big-bore AR-15?

Before we can determine that we must clearly define our task. To me, it first means it’s the AR-15 not the AR-10 or other amalgams, derivatives or evolutions. So, despite our esteemed editor’s suggestion, a rifle in .308 is not a big-bore AR-15.

The second variable one might think of would be that any cartridge hurling a bullet larger in diameter than 0.224 inch is a “big-bore” AR-15. I’m not buying that, either. Oh, I’ve bought such rifles, but I don’t consider a 6mm ARC, 6.5 Grendel or a .300 Blackout to be “big-bore” in an AR-15 … or any other rifle for that matter.

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The various bottlenecked cartridges aren’t big-bores. The 6.5 Grendel, the 5.56 and the 6.8 Rem SPC are fine cartridges, but not big-bores.

No, for me, a big-bore AR-15 has to be pushing a bullet more than 0.308 inch in diameter. So, what are the choices these days?

.350 Legend

I’ve got one, and I am fond of it. For those who hunt where a bottlenecked cartridge is prohibited, it’s the next best thing to sliced bread or an already-dressed whitetail. It’s a Winchester cartridge, and it fires 0.357-inch bullets of 160 to 180 grains in weight. “Oh, a .350 Remington,” you’re thinking. Well, yes, but no one has ever complained about the effectiveness of the .350 Rem. on deer. In testing, I shot some Hornady American Whitetail 170-grain interlocks into clear ballistic gel and got 26 inches of penetration and a fully expanded bullet. Sounds like venison time to me.

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A good group with the .350 Legend. It would have been better if not for the one trigger-snatch shot fired.

The .350 case has the same rim diameter as that of the .223/5.56, so you can get an AR rebuilt to it by a simple-enough barrel swap, pulling out the worn .223/5.56 barrel and installing one in .350 Legend. Yours might be magazine-picky, and it might not—there’s an easy way to find out. The .350 is the smallest of the big-bore ARs, but it’s plenty enough for hunting, and as a bonus you could even use it in self-defense if you had to.

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This is a test shot into clear ballistic gel, and 26 inches later, an expanded bullet.

.400 Legend

OK, you’re Winchester, and now that you’ve updated the .350 Rem to the 21st century, what’s next? Well, how about the .400 Legend? Winchester designed an entirely new case for this one, and on the front end, it uses bullets of 0.400 inch in diameter. As a straight-walled case, that means it doesn’t need a rebated rim, and the rim is 0.422 inch in diameter, the same as the 6.8 Remington SPC.

What this means, with a 215-grain bullet going a nominal 2,250 fps, is that the .400 Legend has less recoil than the .450 Bushmaster (but more than the .350 Legend, obviously) while delivering almost the same energy at 100 yards that the .450 does, and with less drop. As a big bonus for those considering a step up from using a shotgun with slugs, the .400 has half the recoil but twice the energy at 100 yards that a 1-ounce slug generates. I’ve fired enough slugs in my life that that alone makes the .400 very attractive.

So far, it’s loaded only with a 215-grain Power-Point bullet, but any jacketed bullet of 0.400-inch diameter will work for reloading. You’ll have to show some restraint, as your typical bullet made for the .40 S&W or 10mm pistol cartridge will not be as stoutly made as the 215 Power-Point, and shouldn’t be used for hunting—period, end of story. But if you want to load up some low-recoil practice/training ammunition using those bullets, the future looks rosy. Just be sure and use jacketed; the all-lead and the coated ones will be murder on your gas system.

.450 Bushmaster

The Bushmaster uses pistol-diameter .45 bullets, so jacketed .451-inch bullets are what you need to stock up on if you plan to reload your empties. The case calls for bullets heavier than those you’ll find for the .45 ACP, but the 450 has been out long enough (it was new in 2007) that you’ll have plenty of choices. The case was derived from the .284 Winchester and uses a rebated rim to fit into an AR bolt face, with a rim of 0.477 inch in diameter. Specifically, the diameter used for the 7.62×39 or 6.5 Grendel cases.

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Once you get to the big-bores, the magazines of the AR-15 become single-stack feeding systems. Still, holding 10 rounds of .450 Bushmaster is not a bad thing—five if you’re hunting, of course.

The .450 Bushmaster is plenty robust, hurling 250-grain Hornady FTX bullets (with a soft polymer tip) at 2,100 fps out of a carbine-sized AR-15. You’ll feel the recoil.

The .450 Bushmaster has the energy required by the DNR in states that permit straight-walled cartridges for hunting, but you’ll have to eat your Wheaties, as the recoil from a typical AR-15 (let’s say, under 8 pounds) is going to be stout. This made it not so attractive to new hunters, and those of small stature, which is how Winchester came to develop the .350 and then the .400 Legend.

.458 SOCOM

The SOCOM, as its name might give you a hint, was developed for use by the bearded gents who track down bad guys and deal with them in faraway places. They wanted something with more horsepower than the 5.56, and boy did they get what they wanted. The SOCOM uses rifle-diameter bullets, so you will be looking at relatively “lightweight” bullets starting at 300 grains and going on up.

The case is a lengthened .50 AE, necked down to hold 0.458-inch bullets, and it also has a rebated rim, as there is only so much space on an AR-15 bolt for a case rim. The .458 SOCOM rim is 0.473 inch in diameter, which is the absolute limit of what an AR-15 bolt can take.

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The .458 SOCOM is a real heavyweight, figuratively and literally. With bullets from 140 to 600 grains, it covers all the bases … and obliterates some of them.

In the 300-grain hunting load offerings, you’ll see velocities from 1,850 to just shy of 1,900 fps. If you are looking for lighter-weight bullets, the Inceptor 140-grain can be pushed up to 2,450 fps. If you prefer heavier bullets, then you can find offerings in the 400 to 500 and even up to 600 grains, and the latter ones can be had in subsonic loadings. A quiet sledgehammer, anyone?

The .458 SOCOM in those loads is essentially a 12-gauge slug equivalent, but with better bullets and out of an AR-15. One detail you’ll have to look out for is ejection. The .458 SOCOM tests the limits of the ejection port opening, and you may find ejection a bit laggard if you have built yours on a vanilla-plain upper. When I built mine, I used a flat-sided billet upper, and simply milled the ejection port larger so as to accommodate the cases. I didn’t bother with an ejection port cover door; I’m not going to be using a .458 SOCOM like I’d use a combat AR-15.

.458 Ham’r

I am fond of the .458 Ham’r, designed by Bill Wilson, but it falls outside of our definition. The Ham’r runs at higher pressures than those of the SOCOM, and as a result, it has to have an AR-10 sized bolt. That makes it a Chimera, an AR-15 lower with an AR-10-dimensioned upper, in order to take the pressures. I love it; it fires a 300-grain bullet at 2,100 fps, but it isn’t an AR-15 as we defined things here.

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The .458 Ham’r is a really stout cartridge, but it doesn’t fit into the basic AR-15 platform. Bill Wilson makes a hybrid, and you need it to use this cartridge.

.50 Beowulf

Designed by Bill Alexander, the Beowulf is one of the first big-bore AR-15 cartridges. Coming out in 2001, it’s a rebated-rim straight-walled case holding bullets of 0.500 inch in diameter. The case is a stretched .50AE, with the overall length of the loaded cartridge just enough to fit into an AR magazine and still feed properly. It, like the .45s, feeds single-stack out of the magazine.

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The .50 Beowulf and a lineup of loadings for it, compared to a .223 in the middle.

The 300-grain bullet loads run just under 1,900 fps and heavier 325- to 335-grain loads run from just under 1,800 fps to almost 1,900 fps. The Beowulf is a proprietary cartridge, so it is not SAAMI-approved, and thus not loaded by other ammunition makes. Ammunition comes solely from Alexander Arms, but they have plenty, and loaded with bullets from 200 to 400 grains in weight.

The .50 Beowulf I tested came with their “Tank” brake, and I was glad of it. Firing 12-gauge slug recoil-equivalent ammunition from a rifle that full-up tipped the scales at 8 pounds would be … interesting, were it not for the brake.

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When I tested the .50 Beowulf, it came with their Tank brake, and I was glad for it.

The Little Things Matter, Too

All of the big-bores are accurate. When I was testing the Beowulf, I found that it hit so hard on the other end and hit so precisely to where I was aiming, that what I was plinking at simply disappeared when the bullet got there. They’re probably all more accurate than 99 percent of the shooters using them, so there’s no concern in that point. And if you reload, then the world will be your oyster.

With the exception of the .458 SOCOM, they are all straight-walled cases, and as a result, they will be relatively easy to resize. No need to worry about bumping back the shoulder just enough, and if you do not invest in carbide sizing dies (I heartily recommend that you spring for the extra few dollars it takes) then a little lube, cleaned off after resizing, will go a long way.

While the .400 Legend is really new, and thus bullets for it might be a bit tough to source, the others are in common diameters, and bullets for them have been being made for years, if not decades. And there’s also the economy.

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The .350 Legend is plenty accurate, as you can see.

The .350 legend, for example, uses much the same weights in powder as does the .223/5.56 (although not the same powders, just to be clear) which is half that of what a .308 load requires. Yes, the .308 generates more velocity and thus more energy, but how much do you need for a whitetail? For a 180-grain bullet, 25 grains of powder gets you 2,200 fps in a .350, while it takes 39 to generate 2,375 fps in the .308. Do you think the whitetail would notice the difference? Perhaps not, but your shoulder and wallet will.

The best part? You can build or buy a new AR to handle these cartridges, or you can just invest in an upper and some magazines. The uppers of the big-bores will have been tuned to operate on regular AR-15 lowers, so if you buy an upper in .350 Legend, you can have range time with the .223/5.56 upper you usually park there, and then once you’re zeroed, go off and hunt with the Legend. The buckets of practice ammo you’ve burned in .223 will carry over to using the .350 Legend (or the others) and you will be a better shooter for that.

For hunters in the Midwest who have to deal with DNR straight-wall-case regulations, there are a lot more choices now than there had been just a few years ago. And for those looking for a new challenge, or a different range experience, big-bores can be a lot of fun.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the May 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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