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Are Deer Rifles Suitable For Elk Hunting?

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We discuss the recipe for success when using standard deer rifles to hunt the monarch of the West.

Heated debates about cartridges and their killing capabilities, or lack thereof, have been topics of campfire banter for decades. However, one ideology that few will disagree with is that a mature bull elk is a formidable foe that requires precision and ample knockdown power. Certain cartridges are undoubtedly more qualified than others to hunt elk, but that doesn’t mean your trusty deer rifle can’t get the job done. Below is a recipe to successfully hunt the mighty wapiti, regardless of which rifle you take into the woods.

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This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest 2024, 78th edition.

Growing up in the West, I’ve taken the opportunity to hunt elk for granted. I killed my first elk at 12 years old and have punched many tags in the last 21 years. I have also spent the last 11 years as a hunting guide in Northern Utah. These experiences have allowed me to witness over 75 mature bulls—and a couple of hundred cow elk—hit the dirt. My approach to effective elk cartridges has always been “the bigger, the better,” but that doesn’t always hold, and my views have slowly shifted with time. There is much more to killing elk than just “carrying a big stick.”

Lessons Learned

Hunting is a revolving educational experience in which I strive to be an astute student. In late October, I found myself in a remote corner of Colorado preparing for an upcoming mule deer hunt. With camp set up and firewood cut, we set out to verify our rifles’ zeros on the eve of opening day. Two trucks toting Pennsylvania license plates pulled up as we finished shooting, and seven blaze orange-clad hunters piled out. They were friendly folks, and we struck up a conversation while they sighted in their rifles. For five of them, it was their first elk hunting adventure, while the other two, a gentleman in his 70s and his son in his late 40s, had been coming west for years. Three hunters were shooting .30-06s, two the 6.5 PRC and another a .270 Win. When it was the senior group leader’s turn to shoot, he pulled out a well-used but manicured Winchester Pre-64 Model 70 chambered in .257 Roberts.

“A little light for a big bull, isn’t it?” I chuckled. “I’ve killed dozens of elk who would whole-heartedly disagree,” the gentleman piped back. He steadied his rifle and fired two nearly touching shots into the target at 100 yards. “That’ll do. I don’t shoot them much farther than that anyway,” he said. True to his persona, he was shooting 117-grain Remington Core-Lokt ammunition from a weathered box that appeared older than me. While his setup was lighter than I would use, I understood why this rifle had treated him well for so many years.

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The snow flurries couldn’t wipe the smile off the author’s face after tagging a mature bull. Many deer rifles can take elk like this with today’s well-constructed bullets and proficiency with your rifle.

Absolute Truths

This experience drove home three absolute truths about the ethics of killing an elk. First and foremost, he was comfortable with his rifle and shot it well. No matter your caliber of choice, if you cannot precisely place a bullet in the kill zone, your lead-slinging elk cannon is nothing but a boat anchor slung over your shoulder. Do whatever it takes to become proficient with the rifle you take into the elk woods and practice often. Take your practice one step further and shoot from various shooting positions using a variety of shooting aids. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the chances of shooting an elk from a bench are slim.

Second, the gentleman was shooting a well-constructed bullet designed to penetrate through muscle and bone. Your bullet selection, especially with smaller cartridges, can mean the difference between the agony of wounding an animal and a punched tag. The market is flooded with an overwhelming number of bullets to choose from, and depending on what caliber you are shooting, some will perform better than others on elk.

His bullet of choice, the Remington Core-Lokt, is a “cup and core” type designed to rapidly expand and penetrate due to its thin copper jacket and dense lead core. Hornady’s ELD-X and Sierra GameKing bullets are similarly designed to expand on impact while retaining a good portion of their weight to drive home through obstructive bone.

Bonded bullets are another highly effective bullet in the elk woods, utilizing an electrochemically fused bond between the bullet jacket and lead core. This bond slows bullet expansion and guarantees maximum penetration via high bullet weight retention. Nosler’s renowned Accubond bullet is a favorite among elk hunters for many reasons, most importantly because it’s proven itself time and time again as extremely capable and efficient on elk. Other popular bonded bullets include the Federal Terminal Ascent and the Swift Scirocco.

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Recovered Nosler Accubond, proving its worth in the field. Photo: Dangersoup.

Monometal, or full copper bullets, have been around for decades but have gained steam recently, and for good reason. They provide hunters maximum penetration and often near 100 percent weight retention. Copper bullets will not produce wound channels nearly as large as the previously mentioned, but they will out-penetrate them and still inflict plenty of trauma. I have killed bulls in Colorado and New Mexico with Winchester’s Copper Impact ammo. Both bulls were dead in seconds with a single well-placed shot. I’ve also had great success with Hornady’s recently launched monometal CX bullet and several variations of monometal bullets from Barnes.

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Monometal bullets, such as Hornady’s new CX bullet found in the Outfitter ammunition line, are tried and proven in the elk woods.

The last but certainly not least important lesson that we can learn from the veteran elk hunter is to know your rifle’s limitations and stick to them. The generally accepted energy threshold to ethically kill an elk is 1,500 ft-lb. The range at which your bullet drops below this mark will vary drastically depending on your cartridge and bullet selection. For the .257 Roberts that the gentleman was shooting, his bullet drops below this mark at just under 200 yards. Given that he rarely shoots beyond 100 yards, it’s easy to understand why that caliber/load combination has enough knockdown power to quickly and efficiently kill an elk inside 200 yards. On the flip side, a .300 Win. Mag., shooting Nosler’s 180-grain Accubond does not dip below the 1,500 ft-lb benchmark until just beyond 600 yards. I’m not saying that you should or should not shoot at that distance, but the difference in downrange energy between these two is night and day.

Another relevant example that needs to be addressed (due to its healthy dose of hazing within the elk hunting community) is the terminal performance of the 6.5 Creedmoor. The reality is that most problems elk hunters face when using the 6.5 Creedmoor are self-inflicted, lacking an understanding of the cartridge’s capabilities. For example, Hornady’s Precision Hunter ammunition, loaded with a 143-grain ELD-X bullet, drops below that 1,500 ft-lb mark around 400 yards. Inside that range, the cartridge is extremely capable of killing elk; I have seen it many times. Shooting beyond that distance, you are rolling the dice on the terminal performance of a good shot, let alone a less-than-ideal shot placement.

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Hornady’s Precision Hunter ammunition line utilizes the company’s ELD-X bullet. This well-constructed cup-and-core projectile has been the demise of many big bulls across the West.

Plain and simple, a mature bull elk is over 700 pounds of raw muscle and sheer determination to survive in some of the most rugged environments in North America. Being proficient with your rifle, using a well-constructed bullet, and knowing your rifle’s limitations will substantially increase your odds of success when you go toe-to-toe with one of these monarchs.

Elk Cartridge Selection For Deer Rifles

All cartridges have pros and cons that must be considered when hunting elk and will differ from hunter to hunter. In true battle satire, I have broken down a list of popular and proven elk hunting cartridges into three weight classes: welterweight, middleweight and heavyweight. The cartridges included are not inclusive but represent various options ranging from vintage classics to the latest and greatest hot rods released in recent years.

Welterweight

Many of the most popular deer hunting cartridges fall into the welterweight category, encompassing all cartridges built on the .243-, .257-, and .264-caliber platforms. The typical welterweights include .243 Winchester, .25-06 Remington, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Weatherby RPM and 6.5 PRC. All can kill an elk, but each requires immense attention to detail, marksmanship and a deep-penetrating bullet. While I would not buy a rifle chambered in one of these cartridges to specifically go elk hunting, they can serve as a dual-purpose deer and elk rifle when needed.

The biggest advantage to using welterweight cartridges is their lack of recoil and ability to rapidly reacquire your target for a follow-up shot. This matters because none of them will immediately knock a bull off its feet, and a second or third shot is often required regardless of what you are shooting. Less recoil also minimizes “flinching” and equates to more precise shots, which is crucial when shooting elk.

I like to shoot elk on the shoulder and break them down. That makes for a quick tracking job. However, when using lighter cartridges, make an adjustment and push your crosshairs back 4 inches behind the crease of the shoulder and squeeze the trigger. That maximizes penetration and steers you away from the dense shoulder bone. Executing this shot with a well-constructed bullet will easily punch through both lungs and put the elk down quickly. Remember that even with a perfect shot, an elk may not react to the shot. I’ve seen many elk get shot with lighter cartridges and not react to the bullet impact. Often, they run out of sight. Upon further inspection to double-check for blood and verify the miss, we find them lying dead less than a hundred yards from the original impact. Always check for blood.

It is also worth noting that, with very few exceptions, most of these cartridges are intended to shoot elk inside 300 yards. The 6.5 Creedmoor can extend to 400 yards and the 6.5 PRC to just over 500 before dipping below 1,500 ft-lb, but always be cognizant of their limitations and do your best to stay well within them. Just because you can regularly ring steel with them at 750 yards does not mean you should be flinging lead at an elk at that distance.

Middleweight

There is a plethora of extremely capable .277- and .284-caliber cartridges in the market. These middleweights offer elk hunters a substantial advantage in knockdown power by jumping dramatically in bullet weight from their welterweight relatives. The most common bullet weights drift between 140 and 175 grains. The heavier bullets and increased speeds also extend these cartridges’ effective range.

Classic middleweight cartridges include the .270 Winchester, 7mm Remington Magnum and .280 Remington. The .270 Win., thanks to legendary gun writer Jack O’Connor’s exploits, is revered as one of the greatest hunting cartridges ever. His “No. 1” rifle was a Winchester custom Model 70 chambered in .270 Win. He openly advocated for the .270 and successfully killed many elk with that rifle. Interestingly enough, in much of O’Connor’s writing, he, too, urged hunters to stay clear of the shoulder and pick shots wisely on elk-sized game.

While the .270 Win. and 7mm Rem. Mag. are still relevant and capable cartridges, the middleweight division has seen several new offerings that outperform these classics. New cartridges always take much flack over their validity, but you can’t argue with the downrange numbers. New rounds—such as the 6.8 Western, 7mm PRC, and the 28 Nosler—outperform their classic counterparts. They separate themselves from the pack the farther you extend your effective range. For example, the .270 Win., shooting a 150-grain Nosler Accubond, drops below 1,500 ft-lb of energy at 500 yards and has 48.4 inches of bullet drop. The 6.8 Western, shooting a 165-grain Nosler Accubond, still packs 1,856 ft-lb at 500 yards and only 36 inches of drop. The same comparison could be made between the 7mm Rem. Mag. and both the 28 Nosler and 7mm PRC.

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Another noticeable advantage these middleweight cartridges offer is a wide variety of bullet options. Any bullets above from these cartridges can take a rut-crazed bull cleanly. Middleweight cartridges will have more recoil than the welterweights, but with a good muzzle brake or suppressor, the additional recoil is minimal and well worth the added performance.

Growing up, I had the opportunity to punch many elk tags thanks to my 7mm Remington Mag. shooting 140-grain Barnes TSX bullets. This rifle will always have a special place in my safe, but it rarely sees the light of day anymore. My last two bulls fell to a single shot from the 6.8 Western, shooting 162-grain Winchester Copper Impact ammo. In Africa, I’ve taken the elk-sized kudu with the 7mm PRC, and it performed as expected with another quick one-shot kill. These new cartridges are not the end-all answer to the perfect elk hunting rifle, but they unquestionably give hunters an advantage in terminal performance, especially at extended distances that are very common when hunting the West.

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Winchester’s Copper Impact ammunition dispatched this bull in seconds with a single 162-grain projectile through the vitals.

Heavyweight

The heavyweight division is stacked with many .308- and .338-caliber cartridges that have long been touted as the most versatile rifle rounds for elk. Plain and simple, these heavyweights can take any animal in North America, given proper bullet selection. Classic .30-caliber choices include the .30-06 Springfield, .308 Winchester and .300 Winchester Magnum. There has also been an onslaught of new .30-cal. cartridges launched, the most popular being the .300 PRC and the 30 Nosler. The .338-caliber has also amassed several noteworthy cartridges, including the .338 Ultra Mag., 33 Nosler and .338 Weatherby RPM. If you are looking for the hardest-hitting, most-powerful rifles to take into the elk woods, these heavyweight cartridges are your huckleberry.

The additional downrange energy is impressive. On many occasions, I’ve seen massive bulls knocked clean over without as much as a twitch from the heavyweight rounds. But everything comes at a price. Recoil, especially without a brake or suppressor, can be downright uncomfortable. Additional recoil makes follow-up shots more difficult, as the rifle’s jump will take you off your target. But, if you can manage the recoil and execute a precise shot with a heavyweight cartridge, you will reap the benefits of devastating terminal performance.

The wide variety of cartridges in the heavyweight class gives you an array of bullet options, ranging from 150 to 225 grains or more—plenty to harvest a massive bull. Given a heavier bullet with a high ballistic coefficient, it’s not uncommon for many of these cartridges to produce downrange energy north of 1,500 ft-lb well beyond 800 yards, especially in the newer cartridges. Again, I’m not advocating shooting elk at that distance, but it certainly means that at 300 or 400 yards, your bullet still has the energy of a freight train.

Several years ago, I built a custom 30 Nosler, which, with a 210-grain Accubond, hits animals like the hammer of Thor. I have killed everything from eland in Africa to elk, deer, and antelope in the States using it with zero problems. With a radial muzzle brake, the recoil is manageable enough that even my wife enjoys shooting it.

Heavyweight cartridges might not be for everyone, but they undoubtedly pack the greatest downrange performance of the lot. However, their performance will not trump a marginal shot. Do not sacrifice precision for power when squeezing the trigger on a big bull. And for the love of all that is good, regardless of your rifle, keep shooting until that bull is on the dirt! Do not hesitate to send an insurance shot into the downed bull to ensure it is anchored. I cannot count the number of times that I have seen a bull collapse from the shot, only to jump back up minutes later, never to be seen again. This situation is often the result of a high shot that shocked the spinal column, temporarily paralyzing the bull but not breaking any bone. Such heartbreak is easily avoided with a quick follow-up shot.

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The author packed up and headed out with the last load of a hard-earned bull.

Elk do not come easily; each one is earned in its own way. Whether you head into the elk woods with your “old reliable” deer rifle or spend some money and purchase one chambered in a hot new cartridge, do yourself and the elk a favor and heed the absolute truths that the veteran elk hunter in Colorado exemplified. Be confident and proficient with your rifle, know its limitations and stick to them, and shoot a well-constructed bullet. You still have to locate the elk and close the distance, but this is a recipe for success to quickly and ethically kill the elk of your dreams.

Embrace the entire experience and the special places that elk hunting takes you. Few things are more exhilarating than hearing an elk bugle, and few delicacies are better than those from a freezer full of elk meat. With the correct elk cartridge, both can be yours next season!

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest 2024, 78th edition.


Raise Your Ammo IQ:

First Look: Aero Precision Solus Pistol Line

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Aero Precision has just announced a line of bolt-action Solus Pistols available in five different chambering options.

When the ATF’s pistol brace ruling was vacated in June of this year, everyone had their eyes on the return of AR pistols. Aero saw another opportunity, and the result is the Solus Pistol line. At their core, the pistols are the same as the Solus bolt-action rifles but are now available in a compact format that can be easily equipped with a pistol brace.

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Solus Pistols are initially being offered in five chambering options, including .300 BLK, .223 Rem./5.56 NATO, .308 Win., 6.5 Creedmoor and 8.6 BLK, and each of those can be ordered in one of eight different finish colors. Barrel lengths vary by caliber, but they all sport the Solus Short Action (Remington 700 short action footprint) and have a 60-degree bolt throw, a 3-lug interchangeable bolt head, dual ejectors and a “cock-on-lift” bolt.

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This Solus Pistol is equipped with a proper rifle stock, possible if you register it as an SBR.

The pistols are bedded in a 7.5-inch Solus Competition chassis that features a 1913 rail at the rear for attaching pistol braces as well as Arca and M-LOK compatible forends that have M-LOK slots at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The Solus Pistol’s chassis is also compatible with both AICS and AIAIW magazines, features adjustable magazine catches and thumb rests and has eight QD sling sockets throughout to choose from. They’re also compatible with tangless AR pistol grips as well as night vision bridge and bipod spigot accessories. The cherry on top is each Solus Pistol is finished with a Trigger Tech single-stage trigger.

Each Solus Pistol will ship with one 10-round P-MAG and MSRP is $1,899.99. They are available now.

For more information, visit aeroprecisionusa.com.


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Carper Rifle: History Of The Tack-Driving Muzzleloader

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We look at the history of the Carper Rifle, a tale that spans over 200 years and five generations.

If you’re a firearms enthusiast, then this story is for you. The tale spans more than 200 years and five generations. And unlike histories that examine most rifles, the rifles described here are, perhaps, out of your reach. To quote the great gun writer Townsend Whelen, “The placing of the bullet is everything.” Here you’ll see what an early gunmaker did to help shooters “place the bullet,” and how his descendant continues the tradition.

The story starts in Virginia in 1802 when Joseph Carper, the son of German immigrants, was born. In 1848, he acquired a large tract of land in what is now West Virginia. Joseph traded one rifle for all you could see from a high point that overlooked the New River. It’s hard to say exactly how much land this involved and interesting to argue how a century-old transaction of this nature would hold up in court.

But, more important, is the fact that Joseph built the rifle he traded for this land. Legend has it was a stunning piece, decorated with silver and muscle shell from the New River. On that land, Joseph built a gun shop and a home, and today, some of the property is part of what’s now known as the New River Gorge National Park. The whereabouts of the rifle involved in this trade is unknown.

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Walker’s rifles are iron furnished and represent rifles built in the 1800s in the Appalachians. His more recent, post-2020 rifles specifically emulate the rifles of East Tennessee.

Early Carper Rifles

Carper Rifles were frequently banned from many pioneer shooting matches, and a Carper Rifle won top prize at Virginia’s State Fair back when a state fair was genuinely important. The excellence of these rifles didn’t go unnoticed by the government. During the Civil War, or the “War of Northern Aggression” as it’s often referred to in the South, Yankee Cavalry descended upon the Carper home. Carper’s brothers were away serving in a Confederate Sharpshooter Battalion, leaving only Joseph, his wife and a small boy on the farm. The northerners burned Carper’s gun shop to the ground.

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An original and very ornate Carper Rifle (top) and a Walker Rifle (bottom).

A stroke took Joseph’s life in 1880 while he was working in his shop. His son, Samuel, finished the rifle Joseph was working on and continued to make rifles until 1927. This was well into the age of the smokeless cartridge—the 3,000-fps .250 Savage and the .30-06.

Why would a gunmaker continue to make rifles far eclipsed in technology for that many years? It’s simple: demand. Carper Rifles were marvelously accurate because of the unique procedure used to rifle the barrels by hand.

Barrels, Not Booze

Today, there are only a handful of Carper Rifles in existence. John Walker, a fifth-generation descendant of Joseph, has two of them and he knows where most of the others are. But more importantly, Walker builds his own muzzleloaders the same way his ancestors did.

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Here it’s easy to see the relationship of the narrow grooves and wide lands in the barrels of Walker Rifles. This is the same pattern used by his ancestors.

Walker grew up in the shadow of his grandfather, an accomplished outdoorsman, and his father, who was a talented woodworker. These influences, in conjunction with the Carper legacy, steered Walker to develop an interest in hunting, firearms and rifle building. His uncle still had some of the gunmaking tools used by the Carpers, and after intense study and dubious research, Walker put the famous Carper barrel-rifling machine to work.

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Walker examining the cuttings on the tool head on his rifling machine.

The process by which these barrels are rifled would make modern barrel manufacturers eye them like a rabid skunk. Nonetheless, the fact remains that Walker managed to duplicate the process that made the Carper Rifle such a tack-driving frontier tool worth vast expanses of terra firma and the intervention of the Union Army.

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Walker prepping his rifling machine to start on a barrel.

The rifling machine utilizes a wooden gear about 6 inches in diameter and about 4 feet long. This spiral-fluted fence post corresponds to the rifling grooves it’ll help cut into the barrel. To one end, a handle is attached, and a chuck is fastened to the other. This allows the gear to be pulled through a guide that keeps the mechanism spiraling and straight.

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Here you can see the difference in the Carper rifling method (right) and the modern rifling method (left).

A steel rod is attached to the chuck, and on its end is a short length of hickory that’s split, with steel cutting blades pinned in place. A barrel is clamped to the base in front of the chuck, and the rod is inserted through the barrel, leaving the cutter protruding from the end of the barrel. This allows the cutter to be pulled through the barrel and then pushed back, cutting one groove at a time.

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This is the cutter that puts the grooves in the barrel. Walker is shimming it to make the cut deeper.

As needed, shims are inserted into the split in the hickory to deepen the groove being cut. The entire process is an event that’s invisible to the builder and requires a talented touch. Walker says it takes about 8 hours to rifle a barrel, and he knows it’s done “when it feels right.”

Patching with Pride

A top-quality muzzleloading rifle barrel of modern manufacture can be had for a couple hundred bucks. So why, you might ask—other than nostalgia—would Walker make his own using this archaic method? Walker used to compete regularly with his rifles, and the Alvin C. York Memorial Shoot held in Pall Mall, Tennessee, was one of his favorite matches; it could be called the Muzzleloading Olympics. Hundreds of contestants flock there every year to prove their muzzleloaders shoot better than any on the planet.

Most of these guns are heavy and designed to be shot over a log—they’re called “chunk guns;” some weigh 20 pounds or more. Open sights and round balls are all that’s permitted. Walker had tried barrels from Green Mountain, Douglas and Getz, but with a patched round ball he found they couldn’t deliver the precision of his original Carper Rifles.

The secret lay in the geometry of the rifling and the slow, tedious process, that in effect, laps the bore as it cuts the groves. With one of his hunting-weight rifles, wearing a barrel of his making, Walker attended this shoot in 1998 and placed in the top 40, or “in the beef,” as it’s called. No trophies are awarded at this shoot; various portions of beef are distributed to the top 40 shooters.

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Well over 100 years old, this original Carper Rifle is still a tack driver.

To understand why the Carper technique is so effective at shooting patched round balls, you first must understand what’s wrong with the design of modern muzzleloading barrels. Modern muzzleloading barrels very much resemble barrels for jacketed or cast bullets in modern cartridge guns. They consist of wide grooves and narrow lands. This works perfectly for jacketed bullets that are sized to the “groove to groove” dimension of the barrel. The wide groove offers a large bearing surface, and the narrow lands get the bullet spinning with minimal distortion. A patched round ball needs the same spin, but this type of barrel cannot effectively provide it.

The bearing surface for a patched round ball isn’t found in the groove but in the area between the land and the ball, which is separated by the patch. The weave of the patch grabs the ball, as it’s forced down the barrel during bullet exit, applying pressure to the bearing surface. A ball doesn’t deform down into the entire depth of the groove like a conical bullet. A wide groove needs too much patch, and the ball cuts the patch at the outside corners of the lands. This need for patch means balls end up being well under bore size to allow for a thick patch in hopes of preventing the “pinch cut” at the corner of the land, and the “burn-through” the wide groove will allow.

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This is what a fired patch from a properly rifled muzzleloader should look like. Notice there are no tears or burn through.

The Carper method is the opposite. To start, grooves are narrow, allowing only a smidgen of patch to enter the groove when the ball is loaded … just enough to relay the spin of the rifling to the ball. A narrow groove doesn’t allow as much burn through and doesn’t require such a thick patch to fill the gap. The wide lands mean the bearing surface is greater and more of the patch’s weave is impressed into the ball. This all means that a ball closer to the size of the land-to-land diameter or bearing surface can be used.

So, just as with modern bullets in modern barrels, what you have is maximum bearing and minimal distortion—not with the bullet, but with the patch! The patch is the key and that’s what a round-ball rifle must be made to harmonize with. Of course, the smoothness of the bore helps maintain patch integrity during loading and shooting. Walker Rifles have won more West Virginia State Metallic Muzzleloading matches than any other. I used mine to win that match, and Walker has won it several times.

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The lock mechanism on an early Walker Rifle, circa 2003.

Up until about 2015, Walker just built his rifles for family and friends. He’s the only rifle maker I know who picked his customer. But that same year Walker stopped making guns, sold his farm and moved to Kodiak, Alaska, to run the Baptist Mission. To survive, the organization needed an organizer and someone with the hillbilly ingenuity like Walker has in spades. Since then, Walker saved the mission and turned it into an educational institution for youths, where they learn how to ride horses, shoot guns, make knives, grow food and, most importantly, tell the truth.

With the gun-building virus still inside him, Walker recently had his son ship his barrel rifling tools to Kodiak. Now, with the help of his daughter, Jenna, who by the way is a very talented knifemaker and engraver, he’s building rifles again. They’re exquisite works of historic art, conjured into existence with hours and hours of handwork.

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John Walker and his rifle-building daughter, Jenna, frequently produce Facebook videos showing the rifles they build and offering educational tips about their history and use.

They’re not gaudy, and they’re not fancy. Walker will tell you straight-up, “They’re nothing like you would find in the hands of a Pennsylvania pimp.” The rifles Walker builds now emulate the working, mountain-style rifles made in East Tennessee during the early to late 1800s. But everyone is hand-fitted to perfection and has a barrel that’s been hand-rifled using the original Carper rifling machine.

If you enjoy a challenge, call Walker up and try to persuade him to build you one of his rifles. You’ll have to convince him you deserve it, and that you’ll shoot it. Walker has no interest in building mantle pieces; he wants his rifles to be shot and hunted with. You’ll also have to send him a check for $5,000. Good luck! If you’re fortunate enough to become the recipient of a Walker Rifle—by gift, trade, fortune or money—it’ll carry with it not only the legacy of a family of talented gunmakers, but also a historical link to the past.

Oh, and you can be sure it’ll “place the bullet” better than you can.

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Historical Firearms:

Krispy Kalash: Timney AK Drop-In Trigger Review

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We hit the range to test out Timney’s AK Drop-In trigger.

The rifle I grew up shooting was an AK, so it’s not all that surprising that I’ve never had any complaints about AK triggers. Sure, I’ve since fired plenty of other guns with objectively much better bang switches, but that never resulted in me feeling the need to run out and replace any of mine. That is no longer true, at least to a degree.

Timney recently sent me their AK Drop-In trigger to test out, and that meant I had the opportunity to fire it side-by-side with a stock AK equipped with the prevalent (and essentially standard) Tapco G2. The difference between the two was night and day, but we’ll talk more about the specifics after going over the installation process.

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Installing The Timney

Replacing an AK’s trigger group can seem a bit intimidating at first to those who are mostly familiar with ARs, but it’s not as complicated as it looks. In fact, the two designs are generally similar when it comes to their fire control groups.

As far as the original FCG designs go, both the AK and AR have two main components—a trigger and a hammer—and each of these is held in place by a pin that goes through the receiver. The point is, if you’ve hammered pins while building an AR-15, you should feel at home doing the same on your AK.

Timney provides excellent instructions in the box and has posted a video guide online as well. The employee in the video completes the whole process in about 5 minutes, and it only took me 10 or 15 to do it for the first time.

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Here you can see the removed original trigger and hammer at the bottom next to the single cassette-style Timney unit that replaced it. The two pins in the center are reused to install it.

In a nutshell, the process entails using a punch to hammer out your AK’s trigger and hammer pins, removing the old trigger and hammer, dropping in Timney’s cassette-style trigger group and then reinstalling the hammer and trigger pins through the unit. Finally, you tighten it all down with the provided hex wrench, reassemble your rifle and are ready to shoot.

The only extra piece of advice that bears mentioning is to ensure that your hammer and trigger pins are fully reinstalled as far as they can go. Because it was flush with the receiver, I didn’t notice that my trigger pin still had a millimeter left to go when I was installing mine. This resulted in the pin walking out and causing some minor malfunctions during my first range session with it, but once properly installed everything worked as it should.

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The Timney trigger installed in the AK's receiver.

The rifle I installed the Timney in is a Romanian WASR SBR in 7.62×39, but according to the company’s list, the trigger should be compatible with most common AK rifle variants owned in the U.S. besides M70-pattern guns from Yugoslavia/Serbia. I specify rifle, because two types of guns that the trigger will not work in are AK shotguns and AK PCCs. That’s sad news for any 3-gunners who may have been looking to upgrade their Vepr-12 or PSA AK-V, but hopefully Timney will eventually accommodate those too.

On The Range

Once I got that initial self-induced hiccup out of the way, the Timney AK trigger was 100 percent reliable. And, as mentioned, it felt and performed amazing next to an AK with a Tapco G2.

Timney-AK-trigger-review-shooting-closeup

The Timney AK Drop-In trigger is a single-stage, non-adjustable trigger with an advertised pull weight of 3.5 pounds. I don’t have a gauge to measure that, but 3.5 pounds seems about right.

While that may sound light in comparison to mil-spec AR triggers, it’s actually in the same ballpark as the Tapco G2. What makes the Timney trigger great isn’t its light weight, it’s that it has basically nonexistent take-up and an incredibly short reset. These qualities can be helpful in two very different areas of shooting: precision and speed.

For precision shooting, the reasoning is the same as why precision rifles often feature a similar trigger, sometimes even made by Timney as well. When you’re trying to hit the bullseye, the less you move the gun when it goes off the better that shot will be. A trigger that requires very little rearward movement to trip simply makes that job easier.

Testing the Timney against the Tapco G2 at 100 yards confirmed this. Only using iron sights and shooting at a quarter-sized silhouette steel target, I made hits much more consistently with the Timney. I attribute this difference mostly to how much take-up the G2 trigger has in comparison, as well as the definitiveness of the Timney’s break.

Timney-AK-trigger-review-shooting-2
For testing precision, I had the red dot turned off and used the rear iron sight integrated at the front of the optic mount. This was to make it a more fair comparison against the AK with a Tapco trigger since it did not have an optic.

As far as shooting fast goes, a short take-up is nice, but a short reset is even better. If you aim to dump a magazine as fast as possible the Timney will get you there noticeably quicker. Mag-dumping isn’t very practical, but double-taps and follow-up shots can be, and the Timney’s short reset aids with those as well.

One Quirk

I touched on rifle compatibility earlier, but one part I didn’t mention is that the Timney AK trigger has a “safety screw” that may need to be adjusted to function properly with certain rifles. I read all of Timney’s literature I could find and scoured the internet for an answer, but my trigger still has one minor quirk worth mentioning.

No matter how I adjusted the safety screw, it wouldn't let me activate the safety when the hammer was forward. Ironically, this makes the AK’s safety behave like an AR-15’s.

If that’s a known side effect of the design, Timney doesn’t mention it anywhere, so I have to assume that it just has something to do with the pattern of rifle I installed it in. Thankfully, as far as these things go, this issue is very minor and not one that I’m concerned about. It could be a small annoyance if you shoot at a range that wants safeties engaged whenever a gun isn't being shot, but that just means you may have to charge the rifle again once it’s empty to cock the hammer back. Many already do this as part of the procedure for ensuring that the chamber is clear.

Considering that everything else still functioned as it should and that any time a round is chambered it will be possible to engage the safety, at the end of the day I don’t think it really matters. That said, it would be preferable if it worked as it normally does and allowed the rifle to be put on safe regardless of the condition of the hammer.

Parting Shot

The Timney feels wonderful, and I’m glad to have an AK outfitted with one now. I still may not feel the need to run out and replace the triggers in my other rifles, but I understand the appeal and potential benefits much better. Most American shooters, AK owners or otherwise, keep things pretty casual. There’s nothing wrong with that, and for recreational plinking or even training, the stock triggers that AKs come with are good enough to get the job done. But some people want more than that.

Timney-AK-trigger

Whether you’re just spoiled by the feel of very nice triggers and want to experience that with your AK too, or you use a Kalashnikov to compete or in some sort of tactical capacity, upgrading the trigger is one of the simplest ways to improve your rifle’s performance. With an MSRP of about $200, Timney’s AK trigger isn’t for everyone, but for how much it improves a rifle’s feel there are shooters out there for whom it will be worth it.


More On Trigger Upgrades:

5 Best Scout Rifles To Seriously Consider For Survival

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The scout rifle needs to be short, lightweight, handy and chambered in .308 Win./7.62 NATO — a rifle to do just about anything needed from hunting to self-defense.


Our Scout Rifle Picks:

R6774-Scout-Rifles–4

What Is A Scout Rifle?

The concept of the scout rifle was developed by recognized gun expert, the late Lt. Col Jeff Cooper. The rifle needed to be accurate with iron sights to 500 yards and powerful enough to take down large game animals for hunting or self-defense. For this, Cooper selected a bolt-action rifle (as these are far less restricted than semi-auto rifles) less than 40 inches long and weighing under 6.5 pounds.

He also chose the .308/7.62 caliber as an ideal all-purpose round and, as it is common with many militaries around the globe, easy to find.

There are many rifles that fit Cooper’s criteria but then he added one very distinctive feature — a forward-mounted magnified optic with extended eye relief. Extended eye relief scopes are more commonly seen on handguns but there was method to Cooper’s madness.

Speed and reliability were two of his concerns (another reason to opt for a bolt action) and he wanted to keep the area above the action free of any obstruction (like a scope). This allowed for scout rifles to be reloaded faster with stripper clips and ensured that ejection of empty cases was not engendered in any way.

Lastly, Cooper felt that having an extended eye relief scope prevented the development of tunnel vision and allowed the operator full peripheral vision and situational awareness. One drawback of extended eye relief scopes is that they lack the full magnification of larger rearward-mounted optics. Cooper felt that 2-3x magnification was sufficient.

There were some other less distinct features that Cooper insisted on, but they are not necessary to the core concept of the scout rifle. After all, he was building the rifle in his mind from scratch, so anything is possible. Only one company built Cooper his scout rifle while he was alive, the Steyr Scout. Since then, several more companies have come forward with their own Cooper-inspired scout rifles. Here, we're going to go over what we think are the five best scout rifles currently on the market.

Specs Comparison Of The Best Scout Rifles

Make/ModelCaliberBarrel LengthOverall LengthWeightSightsStockActionFinishCapacityPrice
Steyr Scout.308 Winchester19 inches38.6 inches6.6 poundsIron with Picatinny RailPlasticBoltBlack, Gray or Green5+1$1,889
Ruger Gunsite Scout.308 Winchester16.1 inches38.5 inches7.1 poundsIron with Picatinny RailLaminateBoltBlack or Gray10+1$1,479
Savage 110 Scout.308 Winchester16.5 inches38.5 inches7.72 poundsIron with Picatinny RailSyntheticBoltFlat Dark Earth10+1$959
Mossberg MVP Scout.308 Winchester16.25 inches37.5 inches6.75 poundsIron with Picatinny RailSyntheticBoltBlack10+1$734
Springfield M1A Scout Squad.308 Winchester18 inches40.33 inches8.8 poundsIron with Picatinny RailSyntheticSemi-AutoBlack10+1$1,945

Best Scout Rifles For Survival

Steyr Scout Rifle

The Steyr Scout gives you the option of mounting an extended eye relief scope, and even has a built-in bipod that tucks up into the stock. - Scout Rifles - Steyr
The Steyr Scout gives you the option of mounting an extended eye relief scope, and even has a built-in bipod that tucks up into the stock.

Pros:

  • The most true-to-form scout rifle based on Cooper's concept
  • Lightweight
  • Holds spare mag in stock
  • Integrated bipod

Cons:

  • Bipod fragile
  • Non-standard magazines
  • Expensive

The original Scout Rifle, the Steyr Scout has all the features Cooper wanted. It’s a lightweight rifle with backup ghost ring iron sights mounted on the receiver and not the barrel, a magazine cutoff device to be able to fire one shot only or with a 5-round detachable magazine. The polymer stock has a backup 5-round magazine in the buttstock. The fore-end of the stock sports an integral bipod that folds up completely into the stock, an accessory rail and five sling attachment points, another Cooper notion.

The Steyr Scout has a three-position safety with a fire option and two levels of safety, one locks the bolt and one does not. Of course, the rifle is available in different colors and calibers, as Cooper recognized that in some countries civilians are not allowed to own firearms that can function using military calibers. Extended capacity magazines (up to 20 rounds) are also available.

Steyr Scout Specs:

  • Caliber: .308 Win.
  • Barrel: 19 in.
  • Overall Length: 38.6 in.
  • Weight: 6.6 lbs. (without magazine)
  • Sights: Iron with rail
  • Stock: Plastic
  • Action: Bolt
  • Finish: Black, gray or green
  • Capacity: 5+1 rounds
  • Price: $1,889

Ruger Gunsite Scout Rifle

The Ruger “Gunsite Scout Rifle” was developed in conjunction with the staff at the world famous shooting facility. - Scout Rifles - Ruger Gunsite
The Ruger “Gunsite Scout Rifle” was developed in conjunction with the staff at the world famous shooting facility.

Pros:

  • Durable and attractive wood stock
  • Compact overall length
  • AICS-pattern magazines
  • Included muzzle brake

Cons:

  • Heavy
  • Relatively expensive

Ruger developed their own scout concept and dubbed it appropriately the “Gunsite Scout Rifle.” Gunsite is, of course, the training facility established by Jeff Cooper.

These scout rifles feature a forward-mounted Picatinny rail for optics, ghost ring backup iron sights, a detachable 10-round box magazine (5 rounders are available), and a traditional scope mounting option. They are available in several different calibers.

The rifle was developed in conjunction with the Gunsite Academy and features their name engraved on the receiver. Interestingly, this rifle features a grey laminated wood stock that is weather resistant and includes rubber spacers that can be used to adjust the length of pull at the buttpad.

A synthetic stock model is also available, and in both stock types the barrel remains free floated. The barrel, available in two different lengths and in either stainless steel or blued, is cold hammer forged for improved accuracy and longer life. The barrel is topped off with a choice of different muzzle devices, a flash hider being the most common.

Ruger Gunsite Scout Specs:

  • Caliber: .308 Win.
  • Barrel: 16.1 in.
  • Overall Length: 38.5 in.
  • Weight: 7.1 lbs. (without magazine)
  • Sights: Iron with rail
  • Stock: Laminate
  • Action: Bolt
  • Finish: Black, gray or black
  • Capacity: 10+1 rounds
  • Price: Starts at $1,479

Savage 110 Scout

savage-110-scout
The Savage Scout rifle is built on Savage’s legendary action and has the company’s excellent AccuTrigger.

Pros:

  • Proven AccuTrigger
  • Stock is adjustable for both LOP and comb height
  • AICS-style magazines
  • Ships with muzzle brake

Cons:

  • Iron sights not hot
  • On the heavier side

Savage is known for making very accurate rifles at reasonable prices, and the Model 110 Scout is no exception.

They key to any modern Savage rifle is the AccuTrigger, which allows you to adjust the trigger pull for increased comfort and accuracy.

The Savage AccuStock provides a rigid interface between stock, action and barrel, and supports parts along the entire length rather than at just two points. This diminishes pressure on the barrel and improves accuracy.

Like other scout rifles, the Savage 110 Scout is a bolt action with a forward-mounted optics rail, backup iron ghost ring sights, and a synthetic stock. It also features a detachable box magazine with 10-round capacity, a muzzle brake and an adjustable stock.

Savage 110 Scout Specs:

  • Caliber: .308 Win.
  • Barrel: 16.5 in.
  • Overall Length: 38.5 in.
  • Weight: 7.72 lbs. (without magazine)
  • Sights: Iron with rail
  • Stock: Synthetic
  • Action: Bolt
  • Finish: Flat dark earth
  • Capacity: 10+1 rounds
  • Price: $959

Mossberg MVP Scout

The handy little Mossberg MVP Scout can accept both M1A and AR-10 mags. - Scout Rifles MVP
The handy little Mossberg MVP Scout can accept both M1A and AR-10 mags.

Pros:

  • Very affordable
  • Lightweight and compact
  • Adjustable trigger
  • Uses AR-style mags

Cons:

  • Bolt runs rough
  • Finish could be better

Mossberg seems to be mostly known for its Model 500 shotgun, but the company makes plenty of popular rifles as well, including the Mossberg MVP Scout. One thing that sets the MVP Scout apart from other scout rifles is that it can accept both M1A and AR-10 magazines.

The longer length top Picatinny rail allows for more expansive options for optics while the backup iron ghost ring sights include a front fiber optic for improved visibility.

The short barrel is threaded so it can accept standard AR muzzle devices (Standard A2 flash hider is included) as well as a suppressor if so desired. The trigger pull is user adjustable from 3 to 7 pounds, the bolt handle is oversized for easier use, and the synthetic stock includes side rails for mounting accessories.

The rifle can be purchased with a Vortex scope and comes with a sling as well. It is only available in one size and caliber.

Mossberg MVP Scout Specs:

  • Caliber: .308 Win.
  • Barrel: 16.25 in.
  • Overall Length: 37.5 in.
  • Weight: 6.75 lbs. (without magazine)
  • Sights: Iron with rail
  • Stock: Synthetic
  • Action: Bolt
  • Finish: Black
  • Capacity: 10+1 rounds
  • Price: $734

Springfield M1A Scout Squad

The Springfield Armory Scout Squad is a hard-hitting .308 semi-auto that accepts a forward-mounted optic. - scout rifles m1a
The Springfield Armory Scout Squad is a hard-hitting .308 semi-auto that accepts a forward-mounted optic.

Pros:

  • Semi-auto
  • Included muzzle brake

Cons:

  • Heavy
  • Expensive

Jeff Cooper was asked about the possibility of scout rifles being semi-automatic and he was certainly not opposed but insisted on reliability.

There is hardly a more battle proven and reliable semi-auto rifle than the M1 Garand and the M1A. Springfield Armory has been churning out M1A rifles for some time and has developed a scout version as well.

The Springfield Armory M1A-A1 Scout Squad takes the standard M1A concept and turns it into a much smaller and handier rifle with forward-mounted Picatinny rail, synthetic stock, and a recoil-reducing muzzle brake.

The rifle sports an 18-inch barrel, two-stage trigger, aperture adjustable iron sights, a standard box magazine, and gas piston-operated reliability in 7.62 NATO.

Springfield M1A Scout Squad Specs:

  • Caliber: .308 Win.
  • Barrel: 18 in.
  • Overall Length: 40.33 in.
  • Weight: 8.8 lbs. (without magazine)
  • Sights: Iron with rail
  • Stock: Synthetic
  • Action: Semi-auto
  • Finish: Black
  • Capacity: 10+1 rounds
  • Price: Starts at $1,945

Editor’s Note: This excerpt is from Modern Survival Guns: The Complete Preppers' Guide to Dealing with Everyday Threats, available now at GunDigestStore.com.

America’s Sweetheart: The Radical Evolution Of The AR-15

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We discuss the history of the AR-15 and look back at just how radically it’s evolved over 60 years later.

New shooters and gun buyers can be forgiven for thinking the AR-15 has always been the way it is. Nope. It’s had more than a half-century of growth, modification and upgrades.

The history of the platform is long and storied. Buckle up.

Tripping Out of The Gate

In the beginning, there was the Colt SP1. This was a rifle with a fixed stock, a triangular handguard around a 20-inch barrel, a carry handle and sights that needed a tool to adjust them. The barrel was skinny, and the twist it had was one turn in 12 inches—suitable only for 55-grain FMJ bullets.

The time? 1967. And the Colt had an MSRP of $195. (In 2022 bucks, that comes to $1,650.) The shooting public wasn’t impressed. The world, hunting and tactical, was still dominated by .30-caliber rifles, such as the M14 or FAL, and hunting done with Winchester (a Model 94 ran $85, a Model 70 cost $150) or Remington (M700, $130) bolt guns in .30-06. The few varmint shooters that existed weren’t at all interested in a self-loading rifle.

colt-sp-1-ria-2-13
The Colt SP1.

The teething problems that happened with any new rifle of the day were worked out, much to the detriment of those involved, in the jungles of Vietnam. This is the origin of many of the myths you’ll read about the “unreliable” AR-15, M16 and M4.

The jungles also called for a variant, the “Commando,” which ended up being a carbine with a barrel of 11.5 inches and a sliding stock that could be made shorter for storage and transport. During this time, and the next decade-plus, you could buy your Colt any way you wanted, provided it was black, an SP1—take it or leave it. Oh, the semi-auto variant of the Commando might be in the catalog, with its 16-inch barrel … but good luck finding one.

Uncle Sam eventually boogied out of Vietnam, and there was a time where nothing happened. Then, in the 1980s, the USMC, tired of a rifle that didn’t do what they needed, designed an improved M16 (and the AR-15 goes with it) to serve their needs. It got a click-adjustable for range and windage rear sight and a marginally heavier barrel. The big change was the twist, jumping to one turn in 7 inches, to stabilize the new, heavier bullet with a steel tip, the SS109, known now as the “green tip” round.

M16A2
At the start of GWOT, the U.S. Military still hadn’t accepted optics as a standard of use. Now, they’re not doing iron sights at all.

While this was happening, along with 1980s fashion and music, the political world was in upheaval. Many politicos went after “assault weapons,” which were exemplified by the AR-15. Its all-black ensemble made it easy to demonize. There had already been a slow boil of builders, experimenters and competition shooters who were upgrading the AR-15, but politics kicked that into high gear.

Suddenly, where there had been Colt and one or two others, you could buy bare AR-15 lowers and build up what you wanted.

And shooters did.

The Colt Effect

The new sport of 3-gun shooting was getting up and running, and you couldn’t win with a .30 rifle. If everyone else also had an AR-15, then whoever had one built best for competition would win.

So, everyone built.

And while everyone was building, bottlenecks arose, although they weren’t in barrels or other parts: The upper receivers and the handguards were the problem. We were stuck with the fixed-sight uppers, the A1 and A2, and plastic handguards. The fixed-sight uppers made it really difficult to mount optics of any kind.

AR-A1-A2-handguard
The triangular handguards, front, were light but fragile. The cylindrical handguards were a lot tougher, but they still put pressure on the barrel.

The only way to get a barrel free-floated was to use an aluminum tube handguard … and they were heavy. They also heated up and, once hot, took a long time to cool. Colt solved the problem of sights and optics when they adopted the “flat-top” receiver in the early 1990s.

AR-15-A1-rear-sight
The A1 sight needs a tool to adjust. Don’t believe the “tip of a loaded round” suggestion. It doesn’t work.

This was an outgrowth of the ACR (Advanced Combat Rifle) program, and part of the Colt development of the M4. Gunsmiths had been making flat-tops before, but to do it required radical surgery. Someone had to chop off the carry handle, then pin, epoxy or bolt on a Weaver rail and attach a scope to that.

With Colt making uppers, shooters no longer had to do that. But there was a fly in ointment: Colt. Their parts were expensive, and the only way anyone could lay hands on a flat-top upper was—you guessed it—by buying a Colt rifle. Worse yet, the Colt uppers and lowers were made in the Colt “big pin” configuration. The front takedown pin was larger in diameter than the mil-spec parts, and Colt refused to change.

Colt-AR-15-SP1-pin
The Colt SP1, with its oversized front takedown pin everyone hated. Still do. You can’t mate up these with any other upper/lower combo unless they’re also Colt big-pin sets.

If You Build It … You Must Accessorize

The makers of the non-Colt lowers looked at this and started making uppers as well, and in the regular takedown pin diameters so they’d work on all other lowers. In short order, it was possible to own an AR-15 where no single part of it had seen the inside of the Colt factory.

While this was going on, the government found out that bolting extra gizmos to a rifle made it more versatile. They needed a way to attach lights, lasers, extra optics and a cup holder to the M4 and M16A2/A3/A4.

flat-top-AR-scope
With a flat top to work with, optics makers got busy. This is an LWRC rifle with reloaded 55-grain FMJs. It does even better with match ammo.

Next thing you knew, we had “quad rails.” This is a handguard with a slotted rail (the same dimensions as the top rail on the receiver, by the way) at the four cardinal points: top, bottom, left and right. It fits into the regular handguard locking parts and allows adding extra tactical tools. It also makes the handguard fat, edgy and heavy. Oh, and hot … because it’s made of aluminum. (Did the government ask 3-gun shooters about the heat problem? Of course not.)

Competition shooters led the way. From tubular handguards made of carbon fiber (cool in temp, cool in looks and cool in price, but oh-so-light) to free-float handguards with the rails shaved off. The first of those I saw was exactly that: a quad-rail handguard that the shooter had used a milling machine to cut the rails off and make it ergonomic.

AR-15-free-float-handguard
The free-float handguard took a long time to work out, but once it was figured out, accuracy improved. Stop things from touching the barrel, and the barrel shoots better.

While the free-float rail revolution was going on, there was another explosion: billets. The original AR is made from forgings. Billet uppers and lowers are made from pre-hardened blocks of aluminum, where, in the words of Michelangelo, “everything but the receiver is cut away.” Before CNC machines, this wasn’t easy. But with a CNC machine, it’s as simple as locking blocks in the fixture and pressing “go.”

keymod
The first of the changes from the quad rail were Keymod. Here, you can attach a rail segment to the key-shaped slot.

The problem with doing away with quad rails: How do you attach the desired accessories? The first step was known as a KeyMod. Here, the tube of the handguard has keyhole-shaped slots cut into it, and you attach sections of rail where you need them. This was grand. The next step, known as M-lok, does away with the rail. The M-lok slot accepts the locking points that are built into the accessory itself. This does require that the desired accessory be made with M-lok points on it, but with modern CNC manufacture, this is a small consideration.

The Tactical Times

Before the War on Terror, use and development of the AR-15 was competition-focused to almost exclude defense and military. When I went to Gunsite to take the 223 Class, I had to search my rifle rack to find one that was vanilla-plain enough to use. Designers were intent on ever more obnoxious muzzle brakes to tame the “recoil” of the .223 Remington.

Then, almost overnight, muzzle brakes were secondary, and suppressors moved to the fore. No one wanted a rifle—or even a competition AR—with an 18-inch barrel. Everyone wanted carbines with 16-inch barrels, lights, lasers and a tactical sling. When manufacturers cracked the code of how to make an AR-15 pistol work properly, and arm braces suddenly materialized, AR pistols became the new thing. The percentage of AR pistols to others now is 10 times what it used to be.

alexander-arms-AR-pistol
This Alexander Arms AR pistol is the epitome of the modern AR-15. Colors, size, caliber, optics—you have the full panoply of choices.

Oh, and as almost an aside, since the top rail of the receiver could easily accept optics, optics makers and mount makers got busy making better and better mounts and scopes for your aiming use. The optics of today are almost the Hubble telescope compared to what was being used in 3-gun in the 1990s. And in the 1990s, only the spec-ops units with unlimited budgets and ability to use what they wanted to were even using red-dot optics.

One thing that the Global War on Terror did do for us, besides greatly jacking up the price of ammo, was to push down the price of exotic optics. Night-vision optics and thermal viewers dropped by an order of magnitude. You can now see in the dark for what a really good just-glass scope used to cost—which came just in time to start whacking feral hogs in the night with great enthusiasm.

The last step on the AR-15’s evolutionary ladder came in calibers. There’s a lot you can do to stretch the capabilities of the .223/5.56, but even it has limits. In the early 2000s, it was rare to find other calibers. Now? All the rimfires, every centerfire from the 5.7FN up to a slew of .50 cartridges, can be found in the AR-15 or the AR-10.

AR-458-socom
No longer is the .223 the one and only caliber for AR-15s. Here’s just a small selection of a biggie, the .458 SOCOM. That’s right, bullets of 300 to 600 grains, out of your AR-15, with the right barrel, bolt and magazine in it.

Where .223 was once the norm, and the odd shooter had one built in 7.62x39mm, now it seems like half the brass you find at the range is .300 Blackout. And, without looking closely, you can’t be sure that the .223-looking brass you find isn’t .204 Ruger or something else close based on a .223 case.

Onward and Upward

If, in 1967, you had laid this out as the place the AR-15 would be in the 2020s, people would’ve laughed. Heck, I would’ve laughed. Even as late at the Y2K panic (look it up), the AR-15 universe wasn’t so far along that someone who had only seen it at the start could nod and go “OK, I get it.”

We’re now in the Golden Age of the AR-15. You can have it in any color, camo pattern, left-hand as well as right (that change happened back in the early ’00s), barrel length, caliber and put any scope, night-vision, thermals, red-dot, on top.

AR-15-Commando

Oh, and one last thing: volume. In a good year in the past, Colt used to make a couple of hundred thousand AR-15s for the commercial market. Some years, less—a lot less. Now, the AR-15 is the biggest-selling rifle in America, and it isn’t even close. When there hasn’t been some social nonsense that generates a buying frenzy, you have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to buying an AR-15 … or building the one of your dreams.

Colt isn’t the biggest seller anymore, either—not even close. So much for, “Any way you want it, as long as it is an SP1.”

Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the June 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Retro AR-15 Stuff:

Best Ruger 10/22: Hunting, Plinking And Beyond

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Ruger 10/22 options are legion. We help you wade through your choices to pick the best option in the classic .22 LR in this guide.

What Are The Top Ruger 10/22 Models?:

The Ruger 10/22 and its many variants are some of the most prolific semi-automatic rimfire firearms in existence and are loved by novice and experienced shooters alike.

The name 10/22 refers to the practical aspects of the rifle, with the “10” referring to its standard magazine capacity and the “22” referring to its .22 LR chambering. Of course, higher capacity magazines are available today such as the BX-15 and BX-25, holding fifteen and twenty-five rounds respectively.

The rifle has also been offered in other chamberings in the past, but those models are now discontinued.

The 10/22 design has established itself as a reliable firearm, a particularly important trait for semi-automatic rimfire rifles as they can be picky when it comes to ammunition, often requiring high-velocity loads to ensure proper function.

Ruger has utilized the 10/22 as the basis for a myriad of rifle designs and it even appears in pistol form as the 22 Charger line of products. Essentially, regardless of your needs, there’s a Ruger 10/22 model out there for you.

Classic-Ruger-10-22-RIA
A classic Ruger 10/22 Carbine with stainless steel finish and scope. Photo: Rock Island Auction.

Ruger 10/22 History And Popularity:

The classic Ruger 10/22 has been in production since 1964, and it quickly became a rimfire staple due to its reliable magazines and semi-automatic action. Other semi-automatic rimfire rifles existed before the 10/22, notably the Marlin Model 60, but without features like the ten-shot rotary magazine.

Over time, the Ruger 10/22 has evolved to fit the needs of shooters. Improvements such as the addition of an extended magazine release button and the drilling and tapping of receivers at the factory are notable changes that have become standard on most 10/22 models. To supplement the drilled and tapped receivers, most 10/22s today ship with an optic mount that accommodates both Weaver-style and .22 tip-off mounting solutions.

This rifle’s popularity has led to it becoming one of the most imitated and cloned designs on the market, and it is currently possible to piece one together without using any Ruger-made parts. The fact that the design is so prolific, both in factory and clone form, is a testament to the 10/22’s lasting popularity.

Custom-Volquartsen-1022-1
A custom Ruger 10/22 Carbine with Volquartsen upgrade parts. Photo: Rock Island Auction.

Ruger 10/22 Modularity:

It is no hyperbole to say that the 10/22 sits alongside the AR-15 and Glock when it comes to the sheer degree of modularity inherent to the design. Nearly every component of the 10/22 can be replaced with an aftermarket part. Triggers, stocks, barrels, receivers, you name it.

The simple barrel removal process accommodates a wide array of barrels on the aftermarket, including integrally suppressed and takedown versions. The inclusion of threaded barrels and drilled and tapped receivers allows for one to acquire a wide variety of muzzle devices and optic mounts as well.

The 10/22 has a considerable number of products that support the design, comprised of both factory and aftermarket options. Even rimfire giants such as Volquartsen and Kidd make a litany of parts for the 10/22 design, allowing users to incorporate high-performance parts into their Ruger rifles.

The 10/22 design can also be dressed up to mimic the appearance of other firearms, such as the M1 Carbine, HK G36 or FN P90. When it comes to customizing a 10/22, you can truly tinker to your heart’s desire.

High-Tower-Armory-1022-P90-Kit
The P90-style Ruger 10/22 conversion kit from High Tower Armory.

Ruger 10/22 Applications:

The 10/22 is very useful in a variety of different roles and applications. They are always excellent options for training due to their low recoil impulse, ability to be shot easily and affordable ammunition. The value of the 10/22 as a trainer applies to new and experienced shooters alike.

New shooters will be treated to a pleasant shooting experience that is not overwhelming and allows them to hone and practice their skills peacefully. Experienced shooters will be able to focus on their shooting fundamentals and maintain their basic skills while shooting on the cheap.

While not a true 1:1 trainer like the Smith & Wesson M&P 15-22, the tactical, pistol grip-equipped variants of the 10/22 can serve as a means for shooters to familiarize themselves with and practice with something analogous to a tactical carbine.

10-22-Trainer-VS-SW-MP15-22
A Ruger 10/22 with aftermarket carbine stock Vs. a S&W M&P 15-22.

Naturally, the 10/22 is an amazing choice for plinking too. The availability and affordability of the ammunition cannot be understated and enables hours upon hours of enjoyment at the range.

When it comes to hunting, the 10/22 is also an excellent choice for dispatching small game. In the field, the lightweight nature of the 10/22 and its ammunition becomes especially appreciable. Furthermore, many 10/22 configurations such as takedown and compact models lend themselves well to survival and trekking roles.

While rimfire firearms are generally not recommended for self-defense, the 10/22 can fill this role in a pinch if necessary. Having a gun is better than not having one after all. There are many reasons why something like a .22 LR firearm is less than ideal for self-defense, so one should not consider the 10/22 as a primary means of protection.

Essentially, the Ruger 10/22 and its many variants are incredibly versatile and can be utilized in a variety of roles and activities. It is quite probable that Ruger already offers a 10/22 that fits your desired needs, but if not, the rifle’s modularity will ensure that you can make one that checks all of your boxes.

Our 10/22 Selection Process

Frankly, when it comes to factory Ruger 10/22 rifles, it’s hard to go wrong. As far as picking out the right model for yourself goes, it boils down to the specific features of each rather than any inherent difference in quality. With that in mind, we combed over Ruger’s entire catalog and from our first-hand experience found that these models of 10/22 rifles and pistols had the most to offer the average shooter.

Specs Comparision Of The Best Ruger 10/22 Models

ModelStockFront SightRear SightBarrel MaterialTwist RateCapacityBarrel FinishWeightOverall LengthBarrel LengthGrovesMSRP
Ruger 10/22 CompactBlack SyntheticFiber OpticAdjustable Fiber OpticMaterial: Alloy Steel1:16 inch, RH10Blued4.4 pounds34 inches16.12 inches6$380
Ruger 10/22 CarbineHardwoodGold BeadAdjustableAlloy Steel1:16 inch, RH10Satin Black5 pounds37 inches18.5 inches6$390
Ruger 10/22 TakedownStealth Gray Magul X-22 BackpackerFiber OpticAdjustable Fiber OpticStainless Steel1:16 inch, RH10Satin Stainless4.2 pound35 inches16.4 inches6$670
Ruger 22 Charger LitePicatinny Rail Brace MountNonePicatinny RailAlloy Steel1:16 inch, RH15Matte Black3.56 pounds19 inches10 inches6$740
Ruger 10/22 TargetBlack Laminate with ThumbholeNonePicatinny RailAlloy Steel, Aluminum Alloy Barrel Sleeve1:16 inch, RH10Satin Blue5 pounds53.25 inches16.13 inches6$800

Explore The Best of .22

Best Ruger 10/22 Models:

Ruger 10/22 Compact (Model 31114):

Ruger-31114

Pros

  • Compact and nimble
  • Fiber optic sights
  • Adjustable stock

Cons

  • Stock looks and feels plasticky
  • LOP and comb height are not independently adjustable

The compact nature of this model comes from its 16.12-inch barrel (shorter than the standard 18.5-inch barrel) and the inclusion of the Ruger Modular Stock System. The length of pull and cheek weld can be adjusted with the use of various modules.

This modularity allows the rifle to accommodate a wider variety of shooters. Another departure from traditional 10/22s is the sights, as the 10/22 Compact ships with a set of fiber optic sights for quicker target acquisition. The shorter barrel and use of plastic furniture allow the Compact model to be less expensive than the standard 10/22 too, making it a great value option whether you appreciate the extra compactness or not.

Ruger 10/22 Compact Specs
Stock: Black Synthetic
Front Sight: Fiber Optic
Rear Sight: Adjustable Fiber Optic
Barrel Material: Alloy Steel
Twist Rate: 1:16 inch, RH
Capacity: 10
Barrel Finish: Blued
Weight: 4.4 pounds
Overall Length: 34 inches
Barrel Length: 16.12 inches
Groves: 6
MSRP: $380

Ruger 10/22 Carbine (Model 1103):

Ruger-1022-Carbine

Pros

  • Classic 10/22 look
  • Will take a lick'n

Cons

  • Heavy for a plinker
  • No stock texturing

If you’re looking for a classic-style 10/22 that provides the closest look to the original model, this is certainly it. This is a no-frills rimfire rifle that comes with everything you need and nothing you don’t.

The rifle is equipped with a simple yet effective sight setup that features a gold bead on the front sight post. If you wish to put a scope on the rifle, this can be easily done as well using the included scope base. This may be the most basic 10/22 model, but I think that it’s also the most timeless.

Ruger 10/22 Carbine Specs
Stock: Hardwood
Front Sight: Gold Bead
Rear Sight: Adjustable
Barrel Material: Alloy Steel
Twist Rate: 1:16 inch, RH
Capacity: 10
Barrel Finish: Satin Black
Weight: 5 pounds
Overall Length: 37 inches
Barrel Length: 18.5 inches
Groves: 6
MSRP: $390

Ruger 10/22 Takedown (Model 31152):

Ruger-31152

Pros

  • Feather light
  • Simple takedown
  • Perfect as a backpack gun

Cons

  • Takedowns are a little less accurate

This takedown variant of the 10/22 features Magpul’s X-22 Backpacker stock. As its name suggests, the X-22 stock was designed with backpacking in mind. The stock has a provision for storing three BX-1 magazines, and a storage compartment is also present in the grip that can accommodate things such as batteries, a bore snake or tools.

The use of stainless steel in the barrel and receiver also protects the rifle from the elements, making it a hardy companion in the field. The threaded barrel makes it easy for one to equip this carbine with a suppressor too, a great extra option for hunters. The set of fiber optic sights is a welcome inclusion as well.

This model would make an excellent choice for a survival rifle as it is lightweight and compact both when deployed and stowed. Whether it’s for the field or simply a more compact storage solution when packing for a range trip, the 10/22 Takedown in Magpul’s X-22 stock fits the bill.

Ruger 10/22 Takedown Specs
Stock: Stealth Gray Magul X-22 Backpacker
Front Sight: Fiber Optic
Rear Sight: Adjustable Fiber Optic
Barrel Material: Stainless Steel
Twist Rate: 1:16 inch, RH
Capacity: 10
Barrel Finish: Satin Stainless
Weight: 4.2 pounds
Overall Length: 35 inches
Barrel Length: 16.4 inches
Groves: 6
MSRP: $670

Ruger 22 Charger Lite (Model 4935):

Ruger-4935

Pros

  • More fun than you deserve to have
  • AR compatible grips
  • Lights out with a brace

Cons

  • Does not ship with a brace

The 22 Charger Lite from Ruger takes the standard 22 Charger design and makes it more portable. Its 10-inch, cold hammer-forged barrel can be easily removed, and it’s tensioned in an aluminum alloy barrel sleeve that has been ported to further cut down on weight. The muzzle is threaded 1/2×28 and a Picatinny-style rail at the rear of the 22 Charger Lite allows one to install a stabilizing brace. The 22 Charger Lite shines as a truly compact and stowable solution as it benefits from both its inherently small package and the ability to be broken down even further.

Ruger 22 Charger Lite Specs
Stock: Picatinny Rail Brace Mount
Front Sight: None
Rear Sight: Picatinny Rail
Barrel Material: Alloy Steel
Twist Rate: 1:16 inch, RH
Capacity: 15
Barrel Finish: Matte Black
Weight: 3.56 pounds
Overall Length: 19 inches
Barrel Length: 10 inches
Groves: 6
MSRP: $740

Ruger 10/22 Target (Model 21186):

Ruger-21186

Pros

  • Perhaps the most accurate 10/22 model
  • Ergonomics are extremely comfortable
  • Upgraded BX-Trigger

Cons

  • Heavy
  • Expensive

This 10/22 variant is optimized for target shooting. The black laminate wood stock features a thumbhole design that lends itself well to improving the rifle’s ergonomics. Ruger also includes their BX-Trigger in their 10/22 Target rifle, an improvement over the base model. The BX-Trigger breaks at 2.5 to 3 pounds, features a crisp reset and reduces overtravel significantly.

The 10/22 Target is a great choice for those who wish to squeeze as much accuracy out of their rig as possible. Essentially, this rifle will make for a precision-oriented rimfire rig that will allow you to shoot on the cheap. Throw a scope on this rifle and enjoy.

Ruger 10/22 Target Specs
Stock: Black Laminate with Thumbhole
Front Sight: None
Rear Sight: None
Barrel Material: Alloy Steel, Aluminum Alloy Barrel Sleeve
Twist Rate: 1:16 inch, RH
Capacity: 10
Barrel Finish: Satin Blue
Weight: 5 pounds
Overall Length: 53.25 inches
Barrel Length: 16.13 inches
Length of Pull: N/A
Groves: 6
MSRP: $800

More On The Ruger 10/22:

Smith & Wesson 1854 Lever-Action Now Available In .45 Colt

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We take a look at Smith & Wesson’s new Model 1854 lever-action rifle in .45 Colt.

Smith & Wesson joined the lever gun craze earlier this year with the release of the Model 1854. While it was available with either traditional wood furniture or dressed up a bit more modern, it was initially only offered chambered for .44 Magnum. Now, Smith & Wesson is offering it in .45 Colt as well.

45-colt-1854-lever-actions

Besides the new chambering, the .45 Colt Model 1854 rifles are the same as their .44 Mag. counterparts. Features that they share include 19.25-inch barrels, 11/16-24 threaded muzzles, 9-round magazine tubes, Picatinny rail optic mounts, XS Sights ghost ring/gold bead sights and flat triggers. They also have the same large loop levers, impressively smooth actions and side-loading gates. And, of course, the .45 Colt 1854 rifles are also available with either textured walnut furniture or polymer furniture that features M-LOK slots for accessories.

45-colt-1854-shooting

The final detail shared between the .44 Mag. and .45 Colt Model 1854 rifles is their price. MSRP for the traditional wood-stocked variants is $1,399 and MSRP for models with polymer furniture is $1,279. Both are available now.

For more information, visit smith-wesson.com.


More On Lever-Actions:

  • The Henry .45-70 Gov't
  • Evolution Of The Legendary Lever-Action
  • Cowboy 101: How To Run A Lever-Action Rifle
  • The Rossi Rio Bravo .22 Lever-Gun
  • The Past, Present And Future Of Lever-Action Shotguns
  • .22LR Ammo: Top Range, Hunting And Self-Defense Ammunition

    10

    Not all .22 Ammo is created equal. Here are the top match, hunting and self-defense options for your .22 pistol or rifle.

    What Are The Best .22 Ammo Options:

    Range Ammo

    Hunting Ammo

    Self-Defense Ammo

    Never have you had so many ammo options. There’s a massive amount of variety in the rimfire world, and some ammo is better at certain tasks than others. While the .22 LR is not the most powerful, the most accurate or the most reliable, it has earned its spot in the limelight as a jack of all trades that has applications for virtually every corner of the shooting world—and beyond. There’s an almost unlimited number of uses for the world’s most popular rimfire, and we will be looking at the top three loads available for the top three most common uses people have for the cartridge.

    The top three uses for the .22 LR are range shooting, hunting and self-defense. While it might seem that it’s more suited for plinking, this cartridge is a serious contender in all three of these arenas for a number of reasons … including some surprising ones.

    Best .22 Range Ammo

    Good .22 lr ammo can make something like the M1 Carbine clone sing.
    Good .22 lr ammo can make something like the M1 Carbine clone sing.

    It’s a fair bet that 99.9 percent of all .22 ammo made gets fired at the range. A common sight at most outdoor shooting ranges is a carpet of fired .22 brass that has turned brown and gray with tarnish and age. It lays so thickly in some places that parking your vehicle in a range bay can sometimes result in the cases getting stuck in the treads of your tires.

    In the range ammo category, there are three winners in three range categories: match, pistol and bulk.

    Best .22 LR Range Ammo: SK .22 LR Match 40-Grain

    Best .22 LR Range Ammo: SK .22 LR Match 40-Grain

    The Precision Rifle Series (PRS) is booming right now. It didn’t take long for a rimfire division to come out. Many of the rifles built for this division are as expensive and precise as their centerfire counterparts chambered in popular rounds such as 6mm and 6.5mm Creedmoor. SK Ammunition offers a specially designed long-range cartridge with a unique 40-grain bullet. This ammunition boasts performance out to 300 yards from these specially designed and built match rifles. Just because it’s meant for 100 yards and beyond, it can certainly be used in your own regular .22 at closer ranges.

    Best .22 LR Pistol Ammo: CCI Pistol Match 40-Grain

    Best .22 LR Pistol Ammo: CCI Pistol Match 40-Grain

    This is another special target load designed for competition. It’s specially made to function in pistols but can be used in rifles as well. This load features a unique round-nosed bullet profile and is generally meant for shorter barrels. Common uses for this ammo would be pistol bull’s-eye and silhouette matches. The ammo comes in 50-round boxes. It’s my favorite when shooting IDPA-style matches for score using a rimfire and is also some of the best ammo for training in free-hand pistol shooting.

    CCI Pistol Match Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 40 Grain
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,070 fps
    Bullet Style: Lead Round Nose
    Ballistic Coefficient: .120
    MSRP: $16 box of 50

    Best Bulk .22 LR Range Ammo: Federal Champion 36-Grain

    Best Bulk .22 LR Range Ammo: Federal Champion 36-Grain

    This common and popular load comes in boxes of as many as 5,200 rounds. While it lacks the general quality of high-end match ammunition, in terms of accuracy, it can certainly hold its own. The fact that you can get more than 5,000 rounds for just shy of $200 is a big plus, considering the cost of centerfire ammunition today. In my experience, this ammunition has had the least number of dud primers and the best general accuracy when compared to other inexpensive bulk options. I consider this a do-all option because it can be used for match shooting and some small-game hunting. It doesn’t offer the benefits of dedicated ammunition, but it certainly could do worse.

    Federal Champion Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 36 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,260 fps
    Bullet Style: Copper Plated Hollow Point
    Ballistic Coefficient: .125
    MSRP: $53 box of 525


    More Rimfire Info:


    Best .22 Hunting Ammo

    One of the most common uses for the .22 LR is as a hunting cartridge for small game. While there have been stories of people downing bears with this small round, it should not be relied upon as the primary round for anything bigger than a coyote.

    Best .22 LR Varmint Hunting Ammo: Winchester 37-Grain Varmint High Energy

    Best .22 LR Varmint Hunting Ammo: Winchester 37-Grain Varmint High Energy

    This ammunition boasts tremendous muzzle velocity and a deadly fracturing bullet. Rated at 1,400-plus fps, Winchester’s 37-grain bullet is specifically designed to impart all its energy into your target, ensuring a quick kill with minimal pelt damage. It’s excellent for coyotes, fox and medium-sized varmints (such as woodchucks). The ammo’s high velocity will give it a flatter trajectory, as compared to other, slower varmint hunting loads. This particular ammunition, while relatively new, is the preferred choice of several avid rimfire varminters I know.

    Winchester Varmint High Energy Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 37 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,435 fps
    Bullet Style: Fragmenting Hollow Point
    Ballistic Coefficient: N/A
    MSRP: $10 box of 50

    Best .22 LR Small-Game Hunting Ammo: Aguila Interceptor 40-Grain

    Best .22 LR Small-Game Hunting Ammo: Aguila Interceptor 40-Grain

    One of the best small-game loads out there is Aguila Interceptor– a souped-up version of the now-discontinued Super Extra ammo. This bullet has copper plating and feeds very reliably in rifles and pistols. Many common ammunition offerings for this caliber have a waxy coating that can gum up a semi-automatic action. The copper plating featured in this load ensures the consistency and accuracy necessary for hunting, especially when a hunter is after small and fast game such as squirrels or rabbits. Its round-nosed design and high velocity make it an excellent choice for the pelt hunter. The bullets weigh 40 grains and move at more than 1,470 fps—a plus for the hunter who sometimes has to choose velocity overweight or vice versa.

    Aguila Interceptor Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 40 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,470 fps
    Bullet Style: Copper Plated Hollow Point
    Ballistic Coefficient: N/A
    MSRP: $10 box of 50

    Best .22 LR Trapping Ammo: CCI Quiet-.22 LRN 40-Grain

    Best .22 LR Trapping Ammo: CCI Quiet-.22 LRN 40-Grain

    Many trappers don’t want ammunition that’s overpowered when putting a shot through the wire of their trap. There’s no quicker way to ruin a good trap than to accidentally shoot it! For this reason, CCI’s Quiet-.22 ammo is an excellent choice: Not only is it suppressor-level quiet without a suppressor, it also has excellent bullet weight and a good bullet profile. The lead round-nosed design is excellent for a finishing shot to the head on virtually all trapped game.

    CCI Quiet-.22 LRN Spec
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 40 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 710 fps
    Bullet Style: Lead Round Nose
    Ballistic Coefficient: .120
    MSRP: $6 box of 50

    Best .22 LR Pest Control Ammo: Federal Small Game No. 12 Lead Birdshot


    Federal Small Game 22 ammo

    With the other positions in the hunting category being occupied by solid-construction projectiles, this entry is dedicated to a more niche variety of .22 ammo. This load from Federal does not contain a traditional bullet, instead having No. 12 lead birdshot that in total weighs 25 grains.

    Being essentially very light bird shot, one should not expect this ammo to have an abundance of either range or power, but it does have advantages for the specific role it was created for: small game and critter hunting. While you shouldn’t think about using this ammo to deal with a coyote problem, if all you need it to do is dispatch some snakes, rats or similarly small pests, it will get the job done without causing too much collateral damage.

    While placed in the hunting category, for hunting animals that you plan on harvesting meat or fur from, other options should be considered. The range limitations of birdshot loads like this relegate them more to the duty of pest control than sport or resource hunting, but that’s still a form of hunting nonetheless. Don’t forget about bird shot options like this if the next task for your .22 has more to do with clearing varmints from your barn than it does with putting meat on the table.

    Federal Small Game Birdshot Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 25 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,000 fps
    Bullet Style: No. 12 Shot
    Ballistic Coefficient: N/A
    MSRP: $21 box of 50

    Best .22 Self-Defense Ammo

    The topic of protecting oneself with this rimfire cartridge is hotly debated. Some believe it shouldn’t be used for protection in any circumstance. Nevertheless, it’s often one of the more common choices—no doubt due to its overwhelming popularity.

    There are some schools of thought that look at carry ammunition as a one-shot deal. Hollywood has taught us that every bad guy is put down by one trigger pull, but this is clearly not the case. Many people who carry a gun decide to go with the largest caliber they are comfortable with carrying. This is a different type of person than someone who carries the caliber they are most comfortable shooting. All too often, the concepts of “stopping power” and “energy” put bullets that are too large into a hand that’s way too small.

    Another school of thought avers that any gun is better than no gun. In today’s world of ultra-high-capacity micro pistols, it’s hard to see a place for a .22 when there are so many other options available. Advanced guns such as the Sig Sauer P365 have pushed many other pistols to the side—even pistols that are comparable in weight and size. Why should a person go with a .22 if there are objectively better things available?

    The answer here comes down to actually having a gun in the first place. Many folks out there lack the wrist strength to load a full-sized automatic pistol or the fortitude of hand to hold onto a .357 Magnum. A small carry gun chambered for .22 LR is the choice for many people, because its recoil and noise are low and its control is quite high.

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo for Pistols: CCI Velocitor 40-Grain Plated HP

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo for Pistols: CCI Velocitor 40-Grain Plated HP

    Despite being marketed as small-game ammo, this load is devastating from pistols, even those with short, carry-length barrels. Unlike many other loads out there, this diminutive titan packs quite a punch and is capable of delivering excellent expansion and penetration outside its class. What’s more, it’s an excellent choice—not only for automatics, but for revolvers as well. Many small revolvers are perfect platforms for this load. Ruger’s LCR and the Smith & Wesson J-Frame make great hosts. (It should also be noted that the “Velocitor” name sounds enough like “velociraptor” that CCI put a silhouette of that dinosaur on the box!)

    CCI Velocitor Plated HP Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 40 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,435 fps
    Bullet Style: Copper Plated Hollow Point
    Ballistic Coefficient: .125
    MSRP: $11 box of 50

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo for Rifles: CCI Stinger 32-Grain Plated HP

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo for Rifles: CCI Stinger 32-Grain Plated HP

    CCI has made quite a few appearances on this list. It should come as no surprise that the choice load for self-defense with a rimfire rifle would also come from this same company. This particular load features a blistering muzzle velocity rating of more than 1,600 fps. Despite being small and light, it’s devastating on tissue, especially from longer-rifle-length barrels. While it’s sold as varmint ammunition, it excels in a close-range/in-the-home situation, because it offers minimal blast and excellent penetration while keeping recoil to a minimum.

    CCI Stinger Plated HP Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 32 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,640 fps
    Bullet Style: Copper Plated Hollow Point
    Ballistic Coefficient: .084
    MSRP: $11 box of 50

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo for the Woods: Aguila 60-Grain Sniper SubSonic

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo for the Woods: Aguila 60-Grain Sniper SubSonic

    This is the heaviest load on the list. While it certainly won’t fell a bear the same way a .44 Magnum will, it offers a huge number of benefits to the backpacker and outdoorsman. The bullets, themselves, are much longer than a standard .22 bullet and are loaded into a shortened case, but they have the same overall length as normal ammo. It’s loaded to subsonic velocity and is best in a bolt-action or revolver. Because of the high bullet weight, this ammunition offers excellent penetration and can take game at medium distance. It’s relatively quiet—even without a suppressor—and has a muzzle velocity rating of 950 fps. This ammunition isn’t a true self-defense load for the field, but it offers a tremendous advantage if a .22 revolver is the only gun you’ve got.

    It should be noted that another excellent use for .22 ammo in the woods is signaling. If you are lost and can’t locate a trail, three shots, spaced five seconds apart, is how you signal “SOS.” If you space the shots too closely together, people might assume you’re simply having a good time. If necessary, repeat the SOS signal every three to five minutes.

    In addition, whereas larger loads might be bulky, .22 ammo is light enough to be carried in volume. Blanks are available, but they aren’t the first choice when it comes to signaling for help. Why carry blanks when you can carry real bullets?

    Aguila Sniper SubSonic Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 60 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 950 fps
    Bullet Style: Lead Round Nose
    Ballistic Coefficient: N/A
    MSRP: $11 box of 50

    Best .22 LR Self-Defense Ammo For Short-Barrels: Federal Punch Personal Defense 29-Grain

    Federal Punch 22 ammo

    One of the newer .22 LR self-defense loads on the market is Federal Punch Personal Defense. Packing a 29-grain, flat-nose projectile jacketed in nickel, Federal designed this bullet to meet FBI penetration standards in ballistic gel tests. The lower weight projectile is what enables its advertised muzzle velocity of 1,070 fps when fired out of 2-inch barrel handguns, and 1,650 fps when tested with a 24-inch barrel rifle. The bullet construction was also designed to minimize expansion, allowing it to penetrate deeply enough to meet defensive requirements and is what gives the round its “Punch” moniker.

    Federal also went the extra mile to ensure the reliability of this round. While all rimfire ammo can have the occasional dud primer, Federal claims that the company rigorously tested this round and found its reliability to be satisfactory for defensive use. Further aiding in reliability are this load’s nickel-plated cases which reduce friction and aid in extraction.

    The round’s advertised muzzle energy of 75 foot-pounds is less than some other .22 self-defense loads, but it should make up for it in terms of reliability and penetration.

    Federal Punch Personal Defense Specs
    Caliber: .22 LR
    Grain Weight: 29 Grains
    Muzzle Velocity: 1,080 fps
    Bullet Style: Nickel Plated Flat Nose
    Ballistic Coefficient: .084
    MSRP: $12 box of 50

    AmmoUseGrain WeightMuzzle VelocityBullet StyleBallistic Coefficient (G1)MSRP
    CCI Pistol MatchTarget40 Grain1,070 fpsLead Round Nose.120$16 box of 50
    Federal ChampionTarget36 Grains1,260 fpsCopper Plated Hollow Point.125$53 box of 525
    Winchester Varmint High EnergySmall Game37 Grains1,435 fpsFragmenting Hollow PointN/A$10 box of 50
    Aguila InterceptorSmall Game40 Grains1,470 fpsCopper Plated Hollow PointN/A$10 box of 50
    CCI Quiet-.22 LRNSmall Game40 Grains710 fpsLead Round Nose.120$6 box of 50
    Federal Small Game BirdshotSmall Game25 Grains1,000 fpsNo. 12 ShotN/A$21 box of 50
    CCI Velocitor Plated HPSelf Defense40 Grains1,435 fpsCopper Plated Hollow Point.125$11 box of 50
    CCI Stinger Plated HPSelf Defense32 Grains1,640 fpsCopper Plated Hollow Point.084$11 box of 50
    Aguila Sniper SubSonicSelf Defense60 Grains950 fpsLead Round NoseN/A$11 box of 50
    Federal Punch Personal DefenseSelf Defense29 Grains1,080 fpsNickel Plated Flat Nose.084$12 box of 50

    Choice .22 LR Guns

    Some of the best all-around guns are sometimes the ones that are overlooked. One of my favorite general-use firearms is the Smith & Wesson Model 317 Kit Gun. This is an eight-shot, double-action .22 revolver that features an almost entirely alloy construction. It’s so light that it feels as if it’s made completely out of plastic. The unloaded weight of the revolver is only 11 ounces—so light that many cell phones outweigh it by a good margin.

    A benefit of the Kit Gun is that it comes from the factory already set up for use in the field. It has an adjustable fiber-optic sight and a rubberized, full-sized grip. The 3-inch barrel length offers a sight radius comparable to many full-sized pistols—which makes aiming quite a bit easier than with the fixed sights common on many other small revolvers.

    Out of all the available .22 guns out there, why would I select something as simple and benign as the 317? The answer is that it does everything that could possibly be required of a .22—without sacrificing much of anything. It can be carried all day and all night without making one’s hip ache; it’s not loud enough to be a nuisance if one were to fire it in close confines; it’s target-grade accurate with most ammunition; and it’s very reliable. While it does not receive much fanfare, it’s one of the most useful firearms one could possibly add to their collection. It’s so useful, in fact, that it essentially falls in the category of “tool.”

    Another excellent choice in .22 LR is a DIY option. Brownells has started making its own version of the Ruger 10/.22 receiver. The BRN–.22 is a completely customizable and well-thought-out receiver that’s offered in many different configurations.

    The version I built is meant to be a military trainer for CMP competition. It’s styled to be the same size and rough weight as an M1 carbine. The rifle has iron sights—just like the originals. All the parts necessary to construct this rifle are available through Brownells.

    The BRN–.22 is a rimfire enthusiast’s dream. It’s completely customizable and is fully compatible with the entire aftermarket of 10/.22 accessories. The configuration I built is an excellent competition and training gun; it’s also a very fast and accurate piece for small game and even close-range coyote hunting.

    Finding The Right .22 Ammo For Your Need

    There’s something in the .22 market for everyone. While many will discount it as not powerful or accurate enough, it certainly can’t be denied that it’s common enough. There are many end uses, and the ammunition and guns listed here might not be what you’re looking for. However, the odds are in your favor, because there’s very likely something out there that’ll suit your needs.

    This article originally appeared in Gun Digest the Magazine.


    Editor's Note: Adam Borisenko contributed to this article.

    First Look: Smith & Wesson M&P Carry Comp Series

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    Smith & Wesson has just launched the M&P Carry Comp series, featuring three sizes of M&P pistols with integrated compensators.

    There was a time when competitive shooting events were the only place that you’d see a pistol equipped with a compensator, but those days have passed. Now plenty of people are opting to use compensated pistols for defense as well, resulting in several manufacturers introducing models with integrated comps from the factory. With the introduction of the M&P Carry Comp series, Smith & Wesson fans have some options as well.

    SW-MP-Carry-Comp-full-size-metal
    Smith & Wesson M&P 9 M2.0 Metal Carry Comp.

    Coming from Smith & Wesson’s Performance Center, the M&P Carry Comp series features three sizes of M&P pistols including the micro-compact M&P 9 Shield Plus, the M&P 9 M2.0 Compact and the full-size M&P 9 M2.0 Metal. These options cover all the bases, whether you’re in the market for a concealed carry pistol, a home defense gun or something in between. All three M&P Carry Comp models feature what Smith & Wesson calls the Power Port, an integrated compensator found at the twelve o’clock position on the barrel that diverts gasses upwards to reduce recoil. Because these guns are optics-ready as well, they feature a ClearSight Cut designed to divert gasses away from the optic so you can maintain an unobstructed sight picture during fire. Other details worth mentioning include the handguns’ blacked-out serrated rear sights, night sight front sights and flat-face triggers.

    SW-MP-Carry-Comp-shield-plus
    Smith & Wesson M&P 9 Shield Plus Carry Comp.

    All M&P Carry Comp models ship with a Performance Center cleaning kit and some magazines. The Shield Plus includes a 10-round, a 13-round and a 15-round mag and MSRP is $649. The M&P 2.0 Compact comes with two 15-round magazines and MSRP is $799. The M&P 2.0 Metal full-size model includes two 17-round mags and MSRP is $999. All three are available now.

    SW-MP-Carry-Comp-compact
    Smith & Wesson M&P 9 M2.0 Compact Carry Comp.

    For more information, visit smith-wesson.com.


    More 9mm Handguns:

    Federal Releases Champion Training 30 Super Carry Ammo

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    Need some range ammo for your 30 Super Carry pistol? Federal Ammunition has just added a load to its Champion Training line.

    Federal Ammunition released its newest handgun cartridge, 30 Super Carry, in 2022. If you were one of its early adopters, you should be pleased to hear that Federal has just added 30 Super Carry to its Champion Training line. Whenever a new cartridge is released to the public it always takes some time before a wide variety of different ammo types become available for it, so Federal’s introduction of this relatively affordable and easy-to-shoot load should make finding ammo to train with that much easier.

    federal-30-super-carry-champion-training

    The Federal Champion Training 30 Super Carry load features a 90-grain FMJ bullet with an advertised muzzle velocity of 1,300 fps. Federal says that it produces less recoil than its 100-grain American Eagle load of 30 SC and should provide a more comfortable shooting experience and facilitate longer training sessions.

    Chris Laack, the Federal Handgun Ammunition Product Manager, said this about the new load:

    Our American Eagle 30 Super Carry 100-grain training load is already a light recoiling, easy-to-shoot load, even though it’s matched to our Personal Defense HST 100-grain load to deliver the same feel and point of impact … However, this new lighter-weight Champion Training 30 Super Carry 90-grain load feels even easier, softer, less recoiling, and more fun to shoot.

    Champion Training 30 Super Carry ammo is available now, comes in boxes of 50 and has an MSRP of $33.99 per box.

    For more information, visit federalpremium.com.


    More On Handgun Ammo:

    Combat Handgunnery: Avoiding Mistakes

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    We discuss some common mistakes made by armed citizens and the best ways to avoid making them yourself.

    Things People Don't Think About

    One reason shooting is such a great hobby is that it’s a tremendously good stress-reliever. A lot of people don’t understand how this works. They think that we go to the range, imagine our boss’ face on the picture downrange, and act out some homicidal rage by shooting it again and again. That’s not how it works at all.

    Combat-Hangunnery-7ED
    This excerpt is from Massad Ayoob's Gun Digest Book of Combat Handgunnery, 7th Edition, now available at GunDigestStore.com.

    The reason shooting is such a good stress reliever is that, like sky-diving or rock climbing or SCUBA diving, you have to concentrate on what you’re doing to the point where all other BS is excluded from your mind. You must concentrate or you can get killed! Our focus on safe shooting banishes our thoughts of job stress, family problems or whether our team won the Super Bowl. If at any time we find ourselves on the line preoccupied with other, more compelling thoughts, it’s time to pack up and stop shooting for awhile, perhaps for the rest of the day. Not because we’re going to have a psychotic break, but because we can’t concentrate sufficiently on something that demands our complete attention. We do it this way for the same reason that we tell our teenage children not to drive when they’re upset.

    In defensive shooting, as in martial arts, the practitioner seeks to become so skillful that the techniques may be employed automatically without thinking about them when the proper stimulus comes. This is all to the good. However, we must walk a fine line when it comes to firearms safety. Automatic pilot is a fine thing, but it cannot be trusted exclusively. We must always strive for a “conscious competence” level when we’re performing firearms safety tasks. We must think about what we are doing. If we have achieved the ideal Zen state of unconscious competence in firearms handling and do everything correctly without thinking about it, that’s wonderful, but we need to double check once more at the conscious competence level to confirm the good job that we hope our unconscious competence carried out.

    We need to be ruthlessly and honestly critical of ourselves. If we have what are currently called “anger management problems,” we won’t be ready to have immediate access to loaded firearms until those things are under control. If we sleepwalk, it may not be a good idea having guns available in the bedroom.

    A good friend of mine is a world-class competitive shooter with a strong background in law enforcement. He is one of the most well-adjusted human beings and family men I know. He also happens to be a very deep sleeper, and tends to be a bit groggy and disoriented for several seconds when suddenly awakened. Recognizing that, he has made a point of keeping his home defense pistol, a Browning 9mm semiautomatic, in a secured drawer across the bedroom. It is stored with the chamber empty. He knows that by the time he has gotten up, crossed the room, retrieved the gun, and chambered a round, he will be awake and clear-headed. This is the kind of self-analysis we all need to go through.

    Layered Defense

    The police officer on the street has layers of physical defenses. He is taught Verbal Judo™, a crisis intervention skill. He is taught “soft” come-along holds and “hard” strikes with fist and forearm, with knee and foot. He carries pepper spray, and can resort, next, to his baton. He will have a handgun on the duty belt, and hopefully a shotgun and/or rifle in the patrol car if things get worse yet.

    The citizen should have layered defenses in the home. Good locks in solid doors, secure windows, alarms, perhaps an intercom or even a closed-circuit TV at the door, perhaps professionally trained protection dogs and, of course, firearms.

    Gun safety also demands a layered series of defenses. We secure the guns from unauthorized hands. We are constantly aware of where any lethal weapon is and what its condition is. We check by sight and feel. Redundancy is the key. We want to create net after net after carefully deployed net to keep accidents from happening.

    Let’s close with a very insightful statement by an NRA Director and firearms instructor named Mike Baker. Says Mike, “Seemingly obsessive concern with firearms safety is the mark of the firearms professional.”

    Concealed Carry Faux Pas

    Sex and violence: You can’t enjoy the one if you don’t survive the other.

    Richard C. Davis, Inventor of soft body armor, armed citizen and gunfight survivor

    I don’t mind where people make love, so long as they don’t do it in the street and frighten the horses.

    Beatrice Tanner Campbell, Arbiter of etiquette in days past

    Richard Davis and Beatrice Tanner Campbell aren’t usually discussed in the same paragraph, but it’s appropriate here. We lawfully carry guns because we want to stay alive to enjoy the good things in life. Because we are licensed to wear them in public, we do indeed “do it in the street,” and therefore we must take all the more care not to “frighten the horses.”

    In most jurisdictions, concealment is not only authorized by the license, but also tacitly required. Rookie cops are known for the need to “flash,” to just show someone that for the first time in their life, “they’ve got the power.” Armed citizens are well advised to avoid that temptation. The mark of the professional is that few people know that they go about armed. Discretion is critical.

    A spiritual descendant of Mrs. Campbell is Judith Martin, who writes the popular “Miss Manners” etiquette column for the newspapers. Some years ago she had a column that read something like this:

    “Dear Miss Manners:
    “My job requires me to carry a gun. Recently at a party, I sat down awkwardly on a couch and my gun fell to the floor in plain sight. Everyone stared and I was quite shaken. It was most embarrassing. What does one do in such a situation?”
    (signed) “Armed and Confused”

    The columnist’s reply was similar to this:

    “Dear Armed and Confused:
    “You should have immediately picked up your firearm and secured it. You should have then self-effacingly stated, ‘I’m terribly sorry. My job requires me to carry a gun. Don’t worry, no one is in danger.’ Then you should have made a graceful exit. And then you should have gone out immediately and purchased a holster that would not let your gun fall out.
    —Miss Manners”

    Clearly, Judith Martin is one of us!

    You want to avoid “flashing” the gun or allowing it to “print,” that is, to become visible in outline under the concealing garments. If you carry in a pocket, use a pocket holster designed to break up the gun’s distinctive outline. Another option is to fold up a road map or pamphlet lengthwise, and put it in the pocket between the outer fabric and the gun. If you have a shallow pocket, this will also prevent someone standing in a waiting line behind you from glancing down and seeing the backstrap of the pistol peeking out of the opening of the pocket.

    If you wear a shoulder holster, make sure the concealing garment is made of substantial fabric that the lines of the harness do not print. When you bend forward, use one hand or forearm to hold the garment closed on the holster side. Otherwise, a shoulder holster that is not secured to the belt may swing forward and become visible to someone on the side opposite the gun.

    If you bend down to pick something up, do it like a back patient. Keep the spine and torso vertical, and bend at the knees. Bending at the waist causes a gun in a hip holster to print starkly.

    Avoid middle-of-the-back holsters. Anywhere else on your waistband, if the gun catches the hem of the garment and pulls it up revealingly, you’ll quickly either feel it or notice it in peripheral vision. Neither will be true if the gun is in the small of your back. It may be completely exposed, and you’ll be the only person within 300 yards who doesn’t know that your gun is hanging out.

    It will be apparent in this book that the author is a believer in safety straps. That’s partly so the gun won’t be lost in a fall or foot pursuit or other strenuous activity. It’s partly because if you’re grappling with someone and his hands go around your waist, feel the gun, and begin tugging, you want to buy some “reactionary gap” time. It is also partly to avoid something as simple as sitting in a lattice-back chair and having your gun suddenly leave the holster.

    I was once vacationing in Florida, legal to carry a gun, with a 1911 .45 auto, in an open-top, inside-the-waistband holster, under a loose sport shirt. I sat down in a beach chair next to a pool, adjusted the back of the chair up and settled myself. I heard a “clunk.” I thought, “Clunk? Vas ist das clunk?” I glanced down and saw a remarkably familiar combat custom .45 auto lying at poolside. So did a couple of other rather wide-eyed people. I scooped up the pistol and tucked it away, remarking to one concerned onlooker, “Sorry, I’m a cop, they make me carry this damn thing.” Then, like the poor soul who wrote to Miss Manners, I beat a hasty retreat.

    What had happened was that as I shifted my weight upward to settle in the chair, the butt of the pistol had become caught in the open latticework at the back of the chair. When I lowered myself, the movement in essence pulled the holster down and out from around the gun, which then toppled to the pavement.

    This is also a good reason to carry a pistol that is “drop safe.” It isn’t enough to smugly say, “I don’t intend to drop my gun.” I didn’t intend to, either. But if things we didn’t intend to do never happened, we wouldn’t have to carry guns in the first place. Out West, a lady with a cute little derringer in her purse dropped the bag accidentally. The pistol inside received the impact as the purse hit the floor and discharged, sending a bullet up out of the handbag and into the chest of a man standing nearby.

    When you are reaching upward, particularly with a short jacket on, take care that the garment does not lift so much that it exposes the gun or even part of the holster. If the pistol is on your right hip, you might want to discreetly hold the hem of the jacket in place with your right hand as you reach with your left. If that will flash my spare magazine pouch, which some might find just as unsettling, this writer is of such an age that he can commandeer some passing youngster and say, “Excuse me, son, could you reach an item on that top shelf for an old man?”

    If you have an ankle holster on, before you leave the house, sit down and see how much the pant’s cuff rides up when you’re seated. If the bottom of the holster becomes exposed, nature is telling you to pull your sock up on the outside of the holster, taking care that it does not come up over the edge of the holster mouth where it could snag a draw. Now, if the cuff lifts while you’re sitting in a restaurant, it just looks like you have a baggy sock. You may get a summons from the Fashion Police, but the Gun Police will leave you alone.

    When in restaurants, try to sit with your gun/holster side toward the wall. This will minimize chances of the gun being spotted as you get up.

    If you are wearing a jacket and find yourself seated someplace unbearably hot, you can take off the jacket without flashing the gun. Simply sit down with the garment on, then shrug out of the sleeves and let the jacket sort of fluff up around your waist. Done with care, this will hide the gun. Now you’ll be comfortable, and you won’t become conspicuous by being the only person in the place wearing a jacket.

    If you carry your firearm off-body in a purse or fake Daytimer™ or whatever, for heaven’s sake, don’t get in the habit of setting it where you might get up and leave it unattended. There are other countries where people have gone to jail for that, convicted of criminal negligence, if the abandoned weapon is stolen or found by a child. If the container is small enough, put it in your lap. If it’s too big for your lap, put it on the seat against your hip. If you must, put it on the floor against your leg. Have it on the exiting side or between your feet. Yes, the exiting side is more accessible to the purse-snatcher, but ask yourself one question. How many times in your life has a thug snatched your purse or briefcase, compared to how many times in your life have you had to go back into a house or restaurant for a carry bag you inadvertently left behind? Between the feet is better, but on the exit side is acceptable too, because it’s always where you can feel it and you can’t slide out or get up without noticing it and reminding yourself to keep it with you.

    Securing Guns In Vehicles

    Do the neighbors and passersby need to see you carrying guns out to your car for a day at the range? Dedicated gun bags look more like high-quality gym bags or travel bags, and don’t attract attention. The new-generation fully enclosed golf club cases designed for air travel are ideal for transporting rifles and shotguns. If the case of ammo you put in the trunk looks like a plain cardboard box, no one is going to look twice.

    We have a generation of “gun-free workplaces” where an armed citizen can be arrested for trespass after warning if they enter the office armed. Federal buildings such as post offices are normally considered to be off limits for gun carrying, even if you have a license to do so in public, and in many jurisdictions the same is true for courthouses, schools, and even places that sell alcohol. This means that if you’re an armed citizen on a day off doing errands that include mailing a package, picking up a copy of a deed at the courthouse, and purchasing wine for a dinner party, you’ll have to take your gun on and off at least three times during the trip.

    You don’t want to do it conspicuously. A frightened citizen who sees someone “doing something with a gun in a parked car” violates Mrs. Campbell’s edict, “Don’t frighten the horses.” A thug who sees you put a pistol in the console knows that he can smash out a window with a rock and steal a pistol as soon as you’re out of sight.

    If you regularly carry a gun, it makes sense to get a small lock-box that easily opens by feel with combination push buttons, and bolt it to the floor or the transmission hump of your car, within reach of the driver’s seat. This allows you to secure the gun as you approach your parking space, and carefully slip it back out and put it back on as you drive away. Why do this while you’re in motion? Because most people won’t be able to see you. (Take care about being observed by people in high-seated trucks, however.) You’re much more likely to be noticed by a pedestrian who is walking by your parked car, since his natural visual angle is downward into your vehicle.

    You might also want to slip the gun into a sturdy cloth shopper’s bag (a fanny pack might become a target for a thief because it looks like it might contain a wallet) and lock it in your trunk when you go into the post office, then retrieve it into the passenger compartment when you return to your car.

    While we’re talking about guns and cars, it’s not sound tactics to have gun-related decals or bumper stickers on your vehicle. Did you ever make a political decision and change your vote because you saw something on someone’s bumper sticker? Probably not, and no one will vote for your gun rights because they saw your bumper sticker, either. However, those things put some cops on hyper-alert when they pull you over for having a taillight out. Your NRA bumper sticker may give some road-raging bozo the idea to call the police and say you threatened him with a gun. When the cops pull you over and find out you do indeed have a gun, you “fit the profile.”

    You also have to consider that the criminal element isn’t entirely stupid. When they see a gun-related sign on your car, it tells them that you feel strongly about guns. That tells them you probably own several guns. They love to steal guns because firearms and prescription drugs are the only things they can steal from you that they can fence on the black market for more than their intrinsic value, instead of maybe a nickel on the dollar. Now they know that if they follow this car to its home, they can watch the house until people are gone, and then break in and steal guns. This is why the bumper sticker thing is just not wise. Show where your heart is on your rights to own firearms by working and contributing to gun owners’ rights groups, instead. It’ll do everyone, and the cause, and particularly you, a lot more good.

    The Routine Traffic Stop

    It can happen to any of us. We’re driving along and suddenly the red, or blue, or red and blue lights start flashing in the rearview mirror. We’re being pulled over! And we’re carrying a concealed gun! What do we do?

    Well, since we are law-abiding citizens and carrying legally, we pull over. Smoothly, steadily, turning on the signal as soon as we see those lights. At roadside, we park and turn off the ignition and engage the emergency flashers. At night, turn on the interior lights. Stay behind the wheel. If you get out and approach the officer unbidden, you not only indicate to him that there might be something inside the car that you don’t want him to see, but your actions mimic the single most common pattern of ambush murder of police during traffic stops. Just stay in the car. Leave your hands relaxed in a high position on the steering wheel. Do not reach for license and registration in the glove box or console or under the seat, either now or before coming to a stop. From a vehicle behind you, these movements mimic going for a weapon.

    Remember Mrs. Campbell’s advice. No cop gets through a police academy without horror stories of brother and sister officers murdered in traffic stops. The officer is carrying a gun and this is the last of Mrs. Campbell’s horses that you want to frighten.

    The officer will ask for license and registration. Make sure that when you open the glove box for the latter, there isn’t a gun sitting there. If you have indeed left la pistola in the glove box, tell the officer, “I’m licensed to carry, and I have one in the glove box with my registration. How should we handle this?” It would be much better for the gun not to be in that location at all.

    In some jurisdictions, when a permit is issued, there is a requirement that you identify yourself as armed any time you make contact with a police officer and are carrying. The easiest thing to do is carry the concealed handgun license next to the driver’s license, and hand both to the officer together. Don’t blurt something like, “I’ve got a gun!” It sounds like a threatening statement. If you try to explain about the pistol and passing traffic obscures some of your words and the only thing the officer hears is “gun,” your traffic stop can go downhill. Just hand over the CCW permit with the DL.

    You’ll want to do the same in jurisdictions where such identification may not be required by law, but where the Department of Motor Vehicles cross-references with issuing authorities on carry permits. In those jurisdictions—Washington state, for example, and many, if not most, parts of California at this writing—the officer will have been told by dispatch or will have seen on his mobile data terminal that you’re someone who carries a gun. If you don’t bring it up first, such action can seem to the officer as if you’re hiding something from him. Again, hand over the CCW with the DL.

    In jurisdictions where neither is the case, it’s up to you. If I pulled you over for a traffic stop in my community and you are a law-abiding citizen who has been investigated, vetted and licensed to carry a gun, it was none of my business. If I was worried about it, I would have asked you if you had one, and I would have expected at that time the honest answer the law demands.

    If at any point the officer asks you to please step out of the vehicle, things have changed. Either someone with a description similar to yours did a bad thing (which means you’re going to be field interviewed and patted down until it’s clear that “you ain’t him”), or your operation was careless enough to give the officer probable cause to believe you’re driving under the influence. This means there will be a roadside field sobriety test. In the typical Rohmberg test, arms will be going straight out to your sides, coats will be coming open and this would be a very bad time to “flash.”

    So, if the officer asks you to step out, I would suggest you reply with exactly these words, if you haven’t already handed over the CCW: “Certainly, Officer. However, I’m licensed to carry. I do have it on. Tell me what you want me to do.” The cop will take it from there.

    Now you’re seeing why those of us who’ve been carrying for a long time understand a principle the courts call the “higher standard of care.” It holds that we, of all people, should be smart enough not to make stupid mistakes with guns. This is why, among many other things, those of us who carry guns tend to rely more on the cruise control than the radar detector, and actually make an effort to drive at the speed limit, so we won’t get pulled over in the first place.

    Gun-possession laws and carry reciprocity change constantly. The best source I’ve found for staying current on the 50-piece patchwork quilt of such laws is at handgunlaw.us.

    Securing The Combat Handgun

    Shooter A is a professional instructor in combat arms. He’s on the road about half the time, usually alone. He keeps a pair of handcuffs in his suitcase and travels with a primary handgun and a backup weapon. When he goes to bed at night in a hotel room, one loaded pistol is in one of the shoes he plans to wear the next day, at bedside. The other is in the other shoe on the opposite side of the bed. He untucks the sheets and blankets at the bottom of the bed before turning in.

    Rationale? He can reach the gun immediately if there’s an intrusion. If he has to roll to the other side of the bed, he can reach a gun there too. If, like some of the victims he has met over the years, he wakes up with the attacker on top of him in bed, there will be no tucked-in bedclothes to bind him like a straitjacket and he can roll the attacker off. If he has to leave the guns behind for any reason, he can lock them in the hard-shell case he keeps inside his regular suitcase, then use the handcuffs to secure the case to pipes under the bathroom sink.

    The latter tactic is because research has taught him that many hotel burglars have suborned hotel staff and use their keys to enter rooms while guests are out. It’s unlikely that these punks will have handcuff keys with them. If they break the pipes to get at the case, it will call immediate attention to their activities. Hotel management will alert to what’s going on, change locks and keys and kill the golden goose.

    Shooter B is a police officer with young children not yet at the age of responsibility. He is subject to call-out from off-duty status at any time. He has arrested and sent to jail some people who aren’t too happy about it, and he feels that nothing less than an instantly accessible loaded handgun will keep him and his young family safe enough for his peace of mind.

    The solution is a lock-box secured in his closet. When he comes home from work he is carrying his duty sidearm, a .45 auto, as an off-duty weapon. He simply leaves it on his person until he goes to bed. When that time comes, he goes to the lock box. The .45 goes in, and out of the box comes another gun that has reposed safely there all day. It is a Smith & Wesson .357 Combat Magnum revolver, loaded with 125-grain hollow-points and customized with a device called MagnaTrigger, which is not externally visible. When he turns in, he slips this gun under the bed where it’s out of sight but he can reach it immediately. From his night-table drawer come two simple-looking stainless steel rings. He puts one on the middle finger of each hand, and goes to sleep.

    The rings have magnets attached to the palm side. There’s one for each hand because he learned in police training that the dominant hand could become disabled in a fight and he might have to resort to his support hand. He is now the only one who can fire the MagnaTrigger gun, whose retrofitted mechanism blocks the internal rebound slide. At the bottom of the block is a piece of powerful cobalt samarium magnet. Only when a hand wearing a magnetic ring closes over the gun in a firing grasp will reverse polarity move the block out of the way and make the gun instantly “live.” This device has been available and working well since 1975, and is currently available from Tarnhelm Supply, 431 High St., Boscawen, NH 03303. It can be applied only to a Smith & Wesson double-action revolver, K-frame or larger, at this time.

    Two very different people, and two very different approaches. Neither is likely to have a gun stolen. Neither is likely to have an unauthorized person handling their guns without their knowledge. Yet each is ready to instantaneously access a defensive handgun if there is a sudden, swift invasion of their domicile.

    The MagnaTrigger is also useful for any time you want to have a gun in off-body carry instead of attached to the wearer. If the container is snatched, only the legitimate owner wearing the rings can make the gun go bang.

    Why have you not heard about the MagnaTrigger from the mass media, in all their articles about gun control advocates calling for “smart guns?” Well, simply because those gun control advocates don’t really want smart guns. They want no guns at all. Their strategy is to pass legislation requiring something that does not yet exist on the market: electronically controlled pistols. This will give them an avenue to ban “stupid guns” as dangerous, and then leave gun owners with nothing because the “smart guns” promised to replace them don’t come through. If the public found out there actually was a smart gun that worked, the anti-gunners fear that people who don’t buy guns now would buy these, and that would thwart their plans. The smart gun that works now is indeed the MagnaTrigger, hampered only by the fact that the technology has not yet been successfully translated to semiautomatic pistols.

    The Handcuff Trick

    Since long before this old guy pinned on a badge, cops have been securing their guns at home with their handcuffs. With the conventional double-action revolver, the bracelet goes between the rear of the trigger and the back of the trigger guard, and over the hammer. This at once blocks the rearward travel of the trigger and the rearward travel of the hammer, positively preventing firing. On a “hammerless” style revolver, the trigger is still blocked.

    On a single-action such as the 1911 or the Hi-Power, the handcuff’s bracelet is applied differently. On the 1911, which has a sliding trigger, it goes under the outside of the trigger guard at the juncture of the grip-frame, and over the back of the slide in a way that holds the hammer down if the chamber is empty, or back if the gun is cocked and locked and loaded. With the Browning, which has a freestanding trigger, it can be done just as on a revolver or between the hammer and the slide while also blocking the trigger’s travel toward the rear of the guard. A double-action auto would be secured the same way, holding the hammer in the down position.

    I don’t see any way to effectively lock up most Glock-like pistols with handcuffs. What the Glock does lend itself to better than most other guns, is a home safety concept I first heard suggested by Peter Tarley, the world-class instructor who used to work for Glock. Simply unload the pistol, and field strip it. The Glock’s barrel/slide assembly comes off en bloc as with many other guns, but unlike most others, there is no takedown lever that has to be manipulated a certain way during reassembly. When danger threatens, grab the barrel/slide assembly with your non-dominant hand, your frame assembly with your dominant hand, and put the two back together. Then holding the gun in the dominant hand, seize the loaded magazine, insert it, rack the slide, and you’re holding a loaded Glock pistol. It’s surprising how quickly this can be done. The old HK P9S, no longer produced, was one of the few other guns with which this trick works as well.

    Remember, it’s our gun. Power and responsibility must always be commensurate. When we need the power, we must accept—and live up to—the responsibility. In the end, most of the time, you never need the power, but you feel good about having fulfilled the responsibility.

    Editor's Note: This excerpt is from Massad Ayoob's Gun Digest Book of Combat Handgunnery, 7th Edition.


    More Knowledge For The Armed Citizen:

    Top Rifle Slings That Carry Their Weight

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    A rifle sling is just about the most important accessory you can have, so here we look at some of the best available options for carbines and hunting rifles.

    If you could only get one accessory for a long gun, a sling would arguably have to be it. That said, there are a TON of different rifle slings on the market, and it can be intimidating trying to choose which one will suit your needs best.

    So, let's talk about what kinds of rifle slings are best for different tasks and use cases, the features that matter most, how to use them and finally what the best slings on the market are.  

    Does Your Rifle Need A Sling?

    A sling to a rifle is like a holster for a handgun. When you need your hands free to do something besides shooting, a sling allows you to keep it on your person.

    Sling-second

    But beyond the obvious use as a means to carry a rifle, slings are also useful as shooting aids. The additional point of contact under tension can stabilize the gun to a greater degree than with the arms alone and can help mitigate recoil, especially with semi-autos.  

    That makes a rifle sling one of the best accessories you can have—vital to hunters, sport shooters and military and law enforcement professionals. Frankly, just about any rifle you own for reasons besides casual plinking deserves to have a sling on it.

    What Types Of Rifle Slings Are There? What Kind Do I Need?  

    At the most basic level, there are three types of rifle slings:

    • Single-Point
    • Two-Point
    • Three-Point

    Like their names suggest, single-point and two-point slings attach to a rifle at one and two places, respectively.

    Single-Point Sling

    blackhawk-single-point-sling
    A Blackhawk single-point sling.

    Single-point slings theoretically still have a place, and you may still see the occasional operator armed with an SMG using one, but for the most part they really just suck. Sure, plenty get sold as tactical gimmicks, but those who buy one have usually never tried running with it. The primary job of a sling is to retain the rifle on your person and free up your hands to focus on moving or completing other tasks. Weapons attached to single-point slings simply flop around too much for this to be possible which makes them useless outside of some very specific niches. Don't believe me? Try using one at a 2- or 3-Gun match and see how long it takes before the rifle slams into your nethers.

    Two-Point Sling

    springfield m1903 feature
    A Springfield M1903 with a reproduction traditional two-point sling.

    Two-point rifle slings are the standard for a reason, and that’s because they’re the most practical, useful and versatile of the three designs for 99 percent of all applications. Whether you’re looking to put a simple strap on a hunting rifle or a tactical quick-adjust sling on a modern carbine, a two-point sling is what you need.

    Three-Point Sling

    specter-gear-three-point-sling
    A Specter Gear three-point sling.

    Three-point slings also attach to a rifle at two points, but they meet at a third point and create an additional loop meant to be worn around the shooter. Three-point slings are similar in their nuance to single-points, except arguably even less practical due to the additional complexity. If getting tied up is your thing, that’s fine, but keep it in the bedroom and off the range.

    Sling Styles

    Speaking of different styles of slings, that’s another factor to consider. Two-point slings could arguably be grouped into three general styles today. There are modern carbine slings, traditional- or hunting-style slings and match slings. Match slings are only for specific rifle events, so we’ll just set those aside and focus on the two that will be the most useful to most shooters.  

    The main difference between modern carbine slings and traditional/hunting slings is their ability to have their length adjusted on the fly. This is why the former are often called quick-adjust slings. Being able to add or remove slack on the fly can be an incredibly handy feature in certain environments, but it could also be basically useless in others. It depends more on how you plan on using the rifle than the specific type of gun in question.

    For example, a traditional sling could be perfectly at home on a modern carbine if one only plans on using it for stability at the range. If you don’t need to carry it or shoot in a dynamic environment, quick adjustability is less important. On the other hand, a modern quick-adjust sling could be an excellent addition to a hunting rifle in certain situations. The ability to comfortably carry the rifle over your shoulder and quickly transition to a stabilized shooting position can be the difference between hitting or missing your mark.

    Ultimately it will be up to you to decide whether the features of a quick-adjust sling justify the higher cost or if your rifle will be better suited by something more basic and traditional.

    Traditional- and hunting-style slings have fewer features, but one worth discussing is the construction material. The two most common are nylon webbing and leather. Quality nylon is several times stronger than leather and cheaper to boot, so there's no upside to leather besides the aesthetics. However, some leather slings are still fantastic (we put two on our list) so don't write them off entirely.

    There’s also a sub-genre among traditional hunting slings known as loop slings. These feature an open loop (such as a Rhodesian sling) or closed loop in the sling itself for use as a shooting aid. I've found loop slings to work incredibly well, though they slow down presentation.  

    Sling Attachment

    One final aspect of rifle slings worth touching on is their attachment methods. There are old-school sling swivels where the sling is simply fed through and secured, but as you can imagine these have generally fallen out of style. That said, they’re still totally viable and may still be the easiest method of sling attachment for certain rifles, especially bolt-actions.

    viking-tactics-QD-swivels-f
    A QD sling swivel and corresponding mount from Viking Tactics.

    The more popular method these days is some form of quick-detach swivel, two common styles being QD swivels and HK hooks. QD swivels use ball detents to lock into QD cup sockets on the rifle, usually on the buttstock and forend, with a push-button that retracts the detents. Push and insert, release to lock, push to release. Of course, your gun’s furniture will need the corresponding cup socket to use this style. HK hooks are more like carabiner clips that hook onto an attachment point on the rifle. Both styles work and which you choose to go with ultimately comes down to personal preference.

    Why Are These The Best Rifle Slings?  

    There's no “best,” but there's a best for you.   

    Each of the slings we chose is from a trusted manufacturer, built using quality materials and can be counted on to perform well in the role they were designed for.

    We looked at features, materials, price points, pedigree (if the brand in question has an established reputation) and performance, then compared them to competitive products. At the end of the day, these are the 10 we think will serve most shooters best. There are others out there that certainly work well too, so let us know in the comments if you have a favorite that you think deserves a mention as well.

    The 10 Best Rifle Slings 

    Tactical/Quick-Adjust Slings:

    Magpul MS1

    magpul-ms1-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1.25 Inches
    Max Length: 60 Inches
    Strap Material: Nylon webbing
    Adjustment: MS1 slider
    MSRP: $39.95
    Website: magpul.com

    Pros

    • Affordable
    • MS1 slider eliminates snag hazards when adjusting (no tails hanging out)

    Cons

    • Thin, unpadded strap won't be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
    • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

    The Magpul MS1 is an adjustable two-point sling. While maybe not the “best” of the type, they're affordable and available in most gun stores nationwide. If all you need is a basic but well-made adjustable two-point, you can’t go wrong with the Magpul. 

    It features a simple 1.25-inch strap, but Magpul offers another wider model with padding for extra comfort (and a $30 higher MSRP as well). The MS1 has a quick-adjust slider and comes in black, stealth gray, coyote tan or ranger green. 

    Viking Tactics VTAC Sling

    viking-tactics-vtac-sling

    Specs

    Width: Not listed
    Max Length: 60+ Inches
    Strap Material: Nylon webbing
    Adjustment: Cam w/ pull cord
    MSRP: $44.95
    Website: vikingtactics.com

    Pros

    • Adjustment cord is easy to grab and use
    • Reputation speaks for itself

    Cons

    • Thin, unpadded strap won't be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
    • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

    The VTAC is made with mil-spec nylon web and stitching for durability, with a cam-operated quick adjust operated by a simple pull cord. It has polymer hardware, including the cam adjuster and triglides.  

    Given its popularity and reputation, it’s a standard by which others are judged.  

    Sly Tactical Two Point Sling

    sly-tactical-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1 Inch
    Length: Made to order
    Strap Material: Nylon webbing
    Adjustment: Triglides/Friction buckle W/ T-handle pull strap 
    MSRP: $67.95
    Website: slytactical.com

    Pros

    • Made to order per your body and intended weapon, should be a perfect fit
    • Large T-handle pull strap

    Cons

    • Due to treatment, the nylon requires a break-in period to become pliable
    • Attachment hardware not included by default, can be ordered with for an additional fee

    Sly Tactical's adjustable slings, including conventional two-points and convertibles, use a nylon T-handle for fast adjustment and convenient location when in use.   

    Sly Tactical uses mil-spec components from the 1-inch nylon web to the triglide buckles to the stitching. Several choices of color/pattern are available, and the sling can be ordered unpadded or with padding for a few dollars more.  

    Blue Force Gear Vickers 221 Sling

    vickers-221-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1.25 Inches (unpadded) ; 2 Inches (padded)
    Max Length: 64 Inches (unpadded) ; 67 Inches (padded)
    Strap Material: Cordura webbing
    Adjustment: Triglides/Friction lock w/ pull strap 
    MSRP: $103.95 (base)
    Website: blueforcegear.com

    Pros

    • Can be easily converted to single-point sling
    • Includes attachment hardware
    • Large, easy to use adjustment pull strap

    Cons

    • Standard QD swivels cost about $20 extra if you don't want the company's RED swivel

    The 221 is a convertible two-point, with your choice of a Blue Force RED Swivels (QD compatible) or standard QD swivels for an extra charge. Optional padding is available for about $30 as well. The adjustment buckle has a pull strap that's easily grabbed for adjusting sling tension. Its extra feature is that it can be easily converted into a single-point sling, something that could be useful for certain tasks or environments.

    The Vickers sling series has been a mainstay among professionals for some time, so this is the duty-grade option among convertibles. 

    Gat Monkey Slings

    gat-monkey-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1 Inch
    Length: Not listed
    Strap Material: Polyester webbing
    Adjustment: Triglides/Cam w/ paracord pull tab 
    MSRP: $39.99
    Website: gatmonkey.com

    Pros

    • Polyester is more flexible than nylon
    • Good paracord pull tab
    • Widest variety of cool, unique patterns

    Cons

    • Attachment hardware not included by default, can be ordered with for an additional fee

    Gat Monkey makes simple but effective two-point adjustable rifle slings that don't break the bank and add some flair, as they're offered in over a dozen prints including M81 Woodland and a bunch of other interesting patterns.

    It features a 1-inch nylon web with a simple cam-operated steel slider to adjust the length on the fly and a paracord pull cord. Pull forward to open and adjust, pull back to close. They’re made in the USA with a lifetime warranty and have an MSRP of $39.99. You can add QD swivels for $20 more.  

    Traditional/Hunting Slings: 

    Magpul RLS

    magpul-rls-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1.25 Inches
    Max Length: 54 Inches
    Strap Material: Nylon webbing
    Adjustment: Triglide
    MSRP: $24.99
    Website: magpul.com

    Pros

    • Very affordable
    • Versatile for a simple design

    Cons

    • Thin, unpadded strap won't be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
    • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

    The Magpul RLS, or Rifleman's Loop Sling, is one of the best general-purpose slings you can buy, and it’s a bargain to boot. A simple nylon web strap with triglide polymer buckles for adjustment, in black or OD green.  

    The RLS can also be used as a loop sling, with a triglide and keeper for the loop, whether as a Rhodesian (open loop) or a cuff sling (closed loop, sized to the shooter's arm) with the keeper. For a simple, affordable sling, it does everything it needs to. 

    Andy's Leather Rhodesian Sling

    andys-leather-rhodesian-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1-1.25 Inches
    Length: Made to order
    Strap Material: Leather
    Adjustment: Single-prong buckle
    MSRP: Starts at $90
    Website: andysleather.com

    Pros

    • Arguably the best sling on the list for shooting support
    • Looks great

    Cons

    • Leather is more susceptible to the elements

    Form and function don't have to be mutually exclusive 

    The original Rhodesian sling is available in 1-inch and 1.25-inch bridle leather with a prong buckle for adjustments. You have a choice of walnut, chestnut or black leather, with sling swivels and keepers available as optional add-ons.  

    Andy's Leather Rhodesian Slings have been used worldwide for hunting, training and more. If you wanted a classy leather sling that can handle hard use, they're as good as it gets.  

    Wilderness Tactical Basic Carry Sling

    wilderness-basic-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1.25 Inches
    Length: Not listed
    Strap Material: Nylon webbing
    Adjustment: Triglide
    MSRP: Starts at $30
    Website: thewilderness.com

    Pros

    • Affordable, no-frills design

    Cons

    • Thin, unpadded strap won't be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
    • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

    A basic carry strap, made in the USA from durable nylon web with triglide adjustments, and in your choice of black, coyote tan and OD green.  

    You can also add some accessories if you want, including your choice of attachments (QD, traditional swivels, HK hooks) and even padding for a modest upcharge. Simple, rugged, and customizable.  

    At The Front WWI 1907 Natural Sling

    at-the-front-1907-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1.25 Inches
    Length: Not listed
    Strap Material: Vegetable-tanned leather
    Adjustment: Dual-prong buckles
    MSRP: $99.99
    Website: atthefront.com

    Pros

    • Perfect match for a classic military rifle
    • Excellent as a stabilizing aid

    Cons

    • Leather is more susceptible to the elements
    • Will take care and time to develop an authentic worn look

    The 1907 sling can complete an M1 Garand, 1903 or 1917 rifle and is used frequently in national match shooting. 

    They also make for a fantastic all-purpose sling. Nearly as fast to adjust as a modern sling, these are comfortable to carry and they can be configured to be used as a cuff/loop sling. For an almost 120-year-old design, that's incredibly impressive. 

    At The Front's Natural model is as close to the original as it gets. 1.25-inch-wide vegetable-tanned leather dyed very light tan with white stitching and Parkerized hardware. With use (and oiling) it will darken and patina with time, making it as beautiful as it is functional.

    Blue Force Gear Hunting Rifle Sling

    bfg-hunting-rifle-sling

    Specs

    Width: 1.25 Inches
    Max Length: 46 Inches
    Strap Material: Cordura webbing
    Adjustment: Polymer sliding buckle
    MSRP: $46.95
    Website: blueforcegear.com

    Pros

    • Sling swivels are included
    • Simple, no-frills design

    Cons

    • No option to add additional padding, a thin strap is not ideal for carrying for long periods

    Simple, rugged, useful on rifles and shotguns and made by one of the best gear companies in business. BFG's Hunting Rifle Sling is adjustable from 26 to 46 inches and includes swivels.  

    Featuring a 1.25-inch Cordura strap in black or FDE/tan and black hardware. The adjuster is a black polymer glide-style buckle. Made in the USA, with a lifetime warranty and equally at home on a rifle or shotgun. 


    Improve Your Marksmanship:

    Defensive Revolver Ammunition: What To Use

    2

    We discuss cartridge considerations and bullet designs for the contemporary wheelgun carrier.

    Your goal when using your revolver in a defensive encounter is to make the bad guy stop whatever it is that required you to shoot in the first place. To be clear: You want to stop the threat. Your goal isn’t to create a fatality—though that is a distinct possibility—but rather to cause the attacker to stop their actions.

    This stopping, or cessation of action, can be achieved through one of two mechanisms: psychological, where the attacker makes the decision that they don’t want to persist; or physiological, where the attacker’s body involuntarily stops functioning because of the damage the shot(s) inflict.

    Defensive-Revolver-Fundementals-1
    This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest's Defensive Revolver Fundamentals, 2nd Edition.

    Choosing Defensive Revolver Ammunition

    Years of shooting data have shown that the best defensive ammunition uses a hollow-point bullet that expands reliably in the target and penetrates sufficiently to reach vital organs. There may be instances where that choice isn’t possible, but under most circumstances, the modern hollow point is what’s needed.

    Since most revolvers used for defensive shooting are chambered in .38 Special or .357 Magnum, it shouldn’t be surprising that the majority of ammo suitable for self-defense is in these two cartridges.

    .38 Special

    In .38 Special, the best results seem to come from the mid- to heavy-weight bullets (135 to 158 grains) in +P loadings. When I wrote the first edition, the Speer Gold Dot hollowpoint (GDHP) +P 135 grain stood out. A decade later, renamed “Gold Dot Short Barrel Personal Protection .38 Special +P,” it’s still the dominant bullet in the category. Developed initially for the NYPD for backup and off-duty guns, it’s racked up many shootings and has performed exceptionally well. Most modern lightweight revolvers shoot this load to the point of aim.

    Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-38-spl
    In .38 Special, the best loads are all of the +P variety.

    Also, in that first edition, Winchester had a new load called the PDX1 Defender, which was promising. Today, renamed “Defender,” it uses the same 130-grain jacketed hollow-point bullet in a +P load and has developed a good track record in police backup guns around the country. The bullet is intelligently engineered and has been turning in good performances. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in my own guns.

    Today, the new load is Federal’s HST 130-grain +P, which is developing a good reputation. It’s especially suitable for the new generation of short-barrel, lightweight revolvers.

    An older load that has a very long track record of decent (though not outstanding) performance is the 158-grain +P lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoint (LSWCHP). This load has been offered by Winchester, Remington and Federal at various times and has the virtue of being relatively inexpensive and packaged in 50-round boxes. Based on diameter expansion in my testing, I prefer Remington, Federal and Winchester—in that order. The load generally shoots to point-of-aim in older revolvers. It wouldn’t be my first choice, but it’s still usable. Be aware that some people find the recoil of the heavy bullet to be painful.

    .357 Magnum

    The .357 Magnum has long been ruled by the 125-grain semi-jacketed hollow-point (SJHP) loads from the major ammunition makers. It’s the load that defined the .357 as a “manstopper” back in the 1970s and ‘80s (though recent analysis of shooting data by experts such as Greg Ellifritz  casts doubt on that reputation). The 125-grain load has a mixed record; when it worked, it worked very well, but it sometimes expanded far too quickly, leading to shallow and ineffective wounds.

    Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-357
    The 125-grain hollow point (left) is the usual recommendation in .357 Magnum, but the author prefers the Speer 135-grain load (right).

    While I don’t recommend that most people carry a magnum of any type these days, primarily because of the much greater difficulty in controlling the gun in strings of fire, for those who insist, I suggest a more modern and slightly heavier bullet. Speer makes its excellent 135-grain Gold Dot GDHP in .357, and that would be my pick for its ability to maintain structural integrity in the target. Hornady also loads a 135-grain “Flexlock” bullet in its Critical Duty line, which should also perform well.

    357-mag-vs-45-acp
    The 125-grain .357 Magnum round (left) is light and fast—up to 1,450 fps. The 230-grain, .45 ACP round is heavy and slow, clocking in around 850 fps. Both work, but so do many others that fit in between.

    Once you move away from those calibers, the pickings get very slim.

    .327 Magnum

    The “Baby Magnum” has issues with getting a bullet of sufficient mass to penetrate deeply enough. What’s more, the caliber has fallen out of favor since I wrote the first edition, and the only defensive load on the market that I trust is the Speer Gold Dot 100-grain GDHP. To the best of my knowledge, there are still no actual defensive shootings using this load and caliber sufficiently analyzed for us to derive any solid conclusions. The recommendation is still based on seeing the results of gelatin testing.

    Many are shocked to learn about the effectiveness and versatility of the .327 Federal Magnum.

    .44 Special

    This cartridge is the very picture of an on-again, off-again round. There are times when everyone seems to rediscover this old cartridge, and ammunition suddenly becomes widely available, only to disappear as people move on to something else. I’ve watched this same sequence replay itself several times over the years.

    The technical problem with this load is the same as faced by the .38 Special: lack of bullets that expand reliably and penetrate sufficiently. In addition, there are very few defensive shootings on record with this caliber, which further complicates matters.

    Today, the .44 Special seems to be “on again,” and there are several loads worth considering. My original recommendation, based on talking with people who use the .44 Special for hunting, is still available: the 200-grain Winchester Silvertip. This round is still the top pick in a relatively narrow field, followed by the 200-grain Speer Gold Dot and the newer Hornady 165-grain Critical Defense (which is very promising, but reliable information on its performance is hard to come by).

    45 colt 44 special 44 magnum
    Left to right: .45 Colt, .44 Special and .44 Magnum.

    .44 Magnum

    Dirty Harry notwithstanding, the .44 Magnum is a poor round for self-defense, being overly penetrative and challenging to control for all but the most experienced of handgunners.

    However, there may be circumstances where you need a revolver that can do double duty for hunting and self-defense against criminal attacks in the field and might be pressed into protective service.

    The first preference would be to use one of the .44 Special rounds listed above in such cases. If those aren’t available, it’s preferable to pick a relatively lightweight (no more than 200 grains) hollow point to limit the round’s penetration. My recommendation (and the only one that fits the criteria) is still the Hornady Custom 180-grain XTP load.

    The preceding is not intended to endorse anything other than the .38-caliber revolver for self-defense. I’m of the considered opinion that when recoil and terminal effects are considered together, it’s still the optimum choice for defensive shooting.

    What About +P Ammo?

    Remember that hollow points expend some of their energy expanding in diameter, but that energy can’t be used to drive the same bullet forward. There’s no such thing as a free lunch; if you want the bullet to expand, it’ll use energy. If there’s too little of it to start with, there won’t be enough left to carry the bullet on its path.

    In those cases, the expanded bullet will stop forward movement too soon, which results in very shallow wounds that don’t reach vital organs. As such, you don’t find many expanding bullets in standard .38 Special cartridges—there just isn’t enough energy to drive a bullet deeply into the target and expand it simultaneously.

    Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-expanding
    An expanding bullet uses part of its available energy in “mushrooming,” or expanding. Careful ammunition choice ensures that there’s enough energy left for proper penetration.

    The answer is to start with more energy, enough to expand the bullet and penetrate sufficiently. This task is often accomplished with “+P” ammunition, simply a cartridge loaded beyond “normal” pressure. The +P loading boosts the cartridge’s energy to accomplish a specific task.

    A common misunderstanding of +P loadings is that they’re useless since they don’t increase power considerably. Here’s the thing: They don’t need a lot more, just enough to change the performance envelope.

    The idea behind the +P load is to add enough energy to reliably deliver an expanded bullet deeply enough to do its job. If a normal-pressure load can’t quite deliver that bullet to where it needs to, but a slightly hotter +P version does, then that’s sufficient for the task at hand.

    It’s important to understand that you don’t need vast increases in power for defensive applications; you simply need enough power to perform the twin tasks of reaching vital parts and destroying them. Some will argue that it’s better to have a more significant reserve of energy on tap than a +P, but everything comes at a price. In the chapters on technique, we’ll delve into that concept more.

    Ammunition For The Recoil Sensitive

    Many people, particularly those with ultra-light revolvers, find that the recoil of .38 Special +P ammunition is too much to comfortably handle. Sadly, there aren’t a lot of alternatives; the Special, in standard-velocity loadings, isn’t well known as a fight-ending cartridge.

    Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-spread
    Part of the revolver’s legendary reliability is the fact that it will function with any ammunition in its caliber. Autoloaders, in contrast, are often very picky about bullet weight, shape and velocity.

    Many “low-recoil” loads are now available in .38 Special, but they all combine a very lightweight projective clad in a tough jacket that generally doesn’t expand at .38 Special velocities.

    The only choice I can recommend for the recoil sensitive is the old 148-grain wadcutter target load. It actually has some good traits: The flat-nose profile cuts a full-sized channel through the target and retains enough energy to penetrate adequately. The downside of the profile is that it’s harder to reload quickly. Some will argue against its use, but it performs better than any round-nosed or fully jacketed bullet in the caliber from what I’ve seen. It wouldn’t be my first choice, except for those cases where +P ammunition is not an option.

    revolver-caught-case-extractor
    A case caught under the extractor is usually caused by poor reloading technique and wastes any time that may have been saved by trying to go faster.

    What About .22 LR And .22 WMR?

    There’s no shortage of snobbishness in the defensive shooting world. For instance, most defensive shooting trainers look down on revolvers, and nearly everyone disparages the so-called “pipsqueak” calibers—the .22 Long Rifle and .22 Magnum.

    The .22 calibers, more commonly found in rifles than in handguns, are the most prolifically produced ammunition on the planet. It’s estimated that some 2 to 2.5 billion rounds of .22 LR alone are made every year.

    Given their ubiquity, it’s a sure bet that some of them get pressed into use against attackers. And they do. While precise data is sketchy, they’re often (though not always) effective in that role.

    But should the .22 be considered a viable defensive choice?

    First, the good news: A .22, even the Magnum version, will have minimal recoil fired from a revolver. It’s much easier to make accurate rapid-fire hits with it than any other caliber (and, it must be said, they’re an awful lot of fun on the range). For someone who is genuinely recoil-averse, that’s a significant benefit.

    The bad news: Except in rare instances, the .22 simply isn’t as immediately effective as a larger-caliber bullet. No matter how adroitly fans of the .22 cartridges try to argue their point, it isn’t and never will be.

    However, in self-defense, doing something is usually better than doing nothing. And a .22 revolver, even though it doesn’t have the reputation of its larger-caliber cousins, is a better tool than empty hands and loud words. While I wouldn’t necessarily recommend any .22 revolver as an unqualified first choice, in some instances, it may be the best alternative — if the other choice is to be unarmed.

    If you or someone you know is considering a .22 for personal protection, there are a few caveats you should heed. First, most .22 handguns are single-action revolvers; these are never good for self-defense. Their light single-action triggers are a liability in shaky hands, and they’re challenging to fire rapidly, which is necessary for the small .22 caliber. Not only that, but they require practice and attention to detail to de-cock safely, should a shot not be fired. If you’re considering a .22, stick to the few double-action models available.

    trigger-pull-gauge-2
    This revolver weighs only 15 ounces but has a trigger pull weight of nearly 12 pounds. Keeping the muzzle from wandering under that force differential requires proper technique.

    Second, choose the heavier bullets in the cartridges. For the .22 Long Rifle, that would be the 40-grain projectiles. In the .22 Magnum, the 45-grain bullets are preferred. Expansion of these smaller rounds will not be significant (and may even reduce necessary penetration), so solid bullets are preferable.

    Practice with these rounds should focus on delivering many shots in one volley accurately to the most vulnerable part of the target to maximize the potential of the tiny bullets. That should be achievable by even the most recoil-shy.

    Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest's Defensive Revolver Fundamentals, 2nd Edition.


    More On Defensive Revolvers:

    RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme Review

    0

    Looking for a practical addition to your reloading bench? Here we discuss the RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme electronic powder dispenser.

    When I got serious about reloading my ammunition, my tool set was minimal to say the least, yet it worked just fine. The various steps might’ve taken a bit longer, but it taught me to respect the little details to ensure things didn’t go wrong and no one got hurt—including me. That said, I quickly desired to obtain the tools that’d make the processes faster, while maintaining the quality control that the bare-bones rig offered.

    My main interest was the powder charging process, as my early technique involved using a Lee plastic powder dipper and some loose powder in a small cardboard box or, sometimes, in a fancy glass jar top procured from a Yankee Candle jar. All my powder charges were weighed on a balance beam scale—at first a RCBS 505, and then a Redding Model No. 2—with me scooping powder into the pan until the beam began to move, then using a powder trickler to fine-tune the load. It was an accurate means of dispensing a powder charge but wasn’t exactly efficient.

    I first tried to use a powder thrower, but for whatever reason couldn’t get it to work out, so it was back to scooping. When the first digital scales came onto the market, I looked at them skeptically, as all the reports indicated the environmental effects could be drastic, and I found those reports to be true. The slightest breeze, fluorescent lighting—you name it—and I had issues.

    Finding ‘The One’

    It was some years later that I began to try again, with the Lyman 1500 digital scale, but it was the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 powder dispenser/digital scale combo that changed the game for me. For a decade, I’ve had a pair of the units on the bench, and that pair of digital powder dispensers have been invaluable. Despite my efforts to check and re-check the units against a balance beam scale, there has never been a deviation in powder weight that exceeded the advertised accuracy.

    The ChargeMaster Lite came next, paring down the control system but not the functionality, followed by the much more precise, and costly, MatchMaster dispenser, giving accuracy down to 0.04 grain at speeds previously unattainable. Were I in the position where I was regularly competing or even just casually shooting long range where I’d want every single advantage, no matter how small, I’d want this unit.

    However, it’s the new RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme that makes the most sense to me.

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    The bold LCD touch screen is simple and easy to use, making for a very flexible package.

    Unlike the ChargeMaster 1500, the Supreme is an integral unit, with the dispenser and scale contained in the same housing. The load cell can measure up to 1,500 grains—perfect for weighing loaded cartridges to avoid a gross overload or empty case—and the unit is capable of dispensing 200 to 300 grains of powder.

    The Supreme has four leveling wheels for feet and a level bubble to help keep your unit as level as possible, which definitely aids in the most accurately thrown powder charges. Set your unit on a stable platform, and level it as best you can.

    Calibrating the unit is a simple procedure, and one I recommend. Let the unit warm up for 15 to 20 minutes (a good idea for all electronic scales), and then use the pair of 50-gram calibration weights to zero the unit properly.

    The bright LCD display/touch screen allows the user to make powder weight selections, switch between modes and much more. Soft-touch powder and “go” buttons are located on the sides of the LCD display. The powder hopper is plenty large enough, holding enough powder for almost any loading session, and the new quick-drain on the right side of the unit drains the powder hopper much faster than older models. There’s even an alarm to warn you that you’ve left the drain open.

    Make It Your Own

    The ChargeMaster Supreme can be as simple or complex as you feel comfortable with. You can run it in manual mode, requiring you to press the go button to dispense each load, or in auto mode, where the unit will automatically dispense the same load as the last as soon as it is stable and zeroed. Or, you can run the unit from your smartphone via a Bluetooth connection through the free RCBS Reloading app.

    This was quite a leap for a guy who scooped powder. With the app, all the parameters available from the LCD screen are there, including setting charge weight, dispensing mode, calibration and more. I must admit it felt a bit weird running a powder dispenser from my phone, but it seems like using a phone as a phone is getting lower and lower on the list these days. But don’t feel intimidated if you’re not tech-savvy; you don’t need a smartphone to run this unit.

    The ChargeMaster Supreme comes equipped with LEARN mode, where the unit senses the amount of powder being repetitively thrown, and then optimizes the delivery time. This can be especially handy when throwing light powder charges for pistol cartridges, or really heavy charges for the .338 Lapua, .416 Rigby or .470 NE. The ChargeMaster Supreme can store 50 different loads in its memory, so if you often reach for the same load, storing it in the Supreme’s memory isn’t difficult at all.

    I tried the ChargeMaster Supreme with three different powders: Hodgdon’s H414 ball powder, Alliant’s Reloder 16—a stick powder with shorter grains—and good old IMR 4064, which is notorious for being a problem child with powder throwers and dispensers. I wasn’t shocked that H414 and RL 16 metered just fine, but it also handled IMR 4064 well, and I can’t say that for most dispensers. Those long 4064 grains can hang up, then dump a clump, especially while trickling.

    I’m not going to say that, as a reloader, you can’t live without an electronic powder dispenser, but once get used to having one, it sure won’t be easy to go back. The latest designs have a lot to offer, in both accuracy and time efficiency. Sitting smack in the middle of the RCBS electronic dispenser line, I find the ChargeMaster Supreme to be a very good value. At less than half the price of the MatchMaster, you still get all the features needed to make very accurate ammunition at an impressive rate.

    Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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    Defensive Handgunning: Skills & Tactics

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    When it comes to self-defense with a handgun, you need to understand skills, tactics and the differences between the two.

    The most effective use of a defensive handgun is obtained by the proper application of tactics and skill. Though they’re often confused by trainers and trainees, and even though you can be tactically skilled, skills and tactics are not the same thing.

    What Is Skill?

    A skill is the learned ability to perform an action well with determined results, often in a given amount of time. A perfect example of a skill would be the presentation of a handgun from the holster followed by a shot that strikes to the center mass of a perceived threat. Depending on distance, we could argue about how much time this should take before proficiency is achieved. But the point is that defensive handgun skills involve the physical manipulation of the handgun.

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    Many armed citizens are choosing ultra-compact handguns for year-round carry to eliminate the need for carry rotation. Some guns can be comfortably carried in a variety of ways.

    Believe it or not, there aren’t a lot of defensive handgun skills to learn. You need to be able to draw your handgun, shoot your handgun and keep your handgun working. This is what basic defensive handgun training is all about. Once you learn these skills, you should continually work to improve them. If you’re especially skillful, you’ll be able to do all these things just as effortlessly and quickly in the dark as in the daylight.

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    Managing your handgun and keeping it operational is a skill, not a tactic.

    What Are Tactics?

    A tactic is a plan, procedure or expedient for promoting a desired end or result. An example of a tactic would be the application of the failure drill if two center mass shots to your attacker have failed to neutralize the threat. The failure drill—a shot to the head after center mass shots have failed—is your plan/procedure to deal with that situation. Making that head shot isn’t a tactic, it’s a skill.

    Before you begin to learn a tactic, you should at least be proficient with the skill a particular tactic will require. Otherwise, you’ll be trying to learn what to do and how to do it at the same time. It’d be possible to learn all the necessary basic handgun skills separate and before learning any tactics, but it’s the matching of particular skills to certain tactics that give the skills relevancy and even make the training more enjoyable. Why might you need to learn to shoot from behind a barricade? Because certain tactics necessitate the use of cover.

    To take this concept one step further, the use of tactics is predicated on the situation. Through training, you condition yourself to use a specific tactic based on the stimulus you receive. In other words, you create a conditioned response. This keeps you from having to think about what must be done.

    handgun-tactics-training
    This shooter has been put in a situation where he must respond tactically to certain stimuli, and then apply his handgun skills to solve the problem.

    Continuing with our previous scenario as an example, the two shots to the center mass of a threat is almost universally the standard defensive handgun conditioned response to a threat. The application of the failure drill—a tactic—is a result of, or a conditioned response to, the failure of center mass shots to have the desired effect.

    This all might seem like I’m trying to overcomplicate the use of a defensive handgun, but really, this should make it all much simpler. If you’re going to use your defensive handgun skillfully—in any way—that use should be determined by a tactic, which was driven by a conditioned response. A good firearms training school will present you with a situation or collection of stimuli and the proper tactics to address the problem. For you to apply the tactics successfully, the instruction should then encompass the skills necessary to do that. Defensive handguns are used to solve problems and without a problem the use of a defensive handgun isn’t necessary.

    Situational Understanding

    Let’s imagine you’re trying to figure out how much carpet you need in your bedroom. That’s the situation/problem/stimuli before you. To do this, you need a mathematic formula—plan/tactic—which would be how to calculate the area of a rectangle/room. We all know that, to do this, you must multiply the width of the room times the length of the room. The skill needed to accomplish this is multiplication. If you don’t know how to do multiplication (skill) or what formula (tactic) to use, you can’t create an effective conditioned response to the problem.

    Understand that while there’s such a thing as tactical training, there’s no such thing as tactical shooting. If you decide to take a true tactical defensive handgun course, you should be able to shoot before you get there. Now, while you’re there, you might be tasked with further developing your basic defensive handgun skills, such as becoming faster and more accurate. But this is done to allow you to better use your handgun to enact the tactics you’ll be taught.

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    Force-on-force training is the ultimate expression of the conditioned response, tactic and skill application training process

    Gunsite Academy offers a variety of defensive handgun courses, which progress in difficulty based on the shooting skill required, the tactics taught and the situations you’re presented with. You can’t attend the Gunsite 499 course until you’ve completed the 350 course, and you can’t take the 350 class until you have passed the 250. Each class builds upon what the previous class has taught you—but in every case, the skills you’re taught are necessary for the tactics you’re asked to demonstrate, which in turn will be dictated by the stimuli you’re given. The ultimate goal is for you to not be faced with a problem for which you don’t have the tactics and shooting skills to solve.

    Of course, all of us can’t afford to jump on a plane tomorrow and fly to Arizona. Some of us can’t even afford to take a two-day course offered closer to home. This means that you might need to conduct your own training based on information gathered in various ways.

    To make that training beneficial to real-world application, approach it from the conditioned response, tactical answer and necessary skills, concept. Sure, it’s OK to shoot just to have fun, but when serious about training, work on the handgun skills tethered to the tactics you plan to employ, which are ultimately based on practical situations you think you might have to deal with.

    Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the 2022 Made In The USA special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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