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Gear: Lighting It Up With A Laser Sight

By
Dick Jones
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A Laser sight is a powerful aiming tool in low-light defensive scenarios for those trained in their use.

What a laser sight brings to the table:

  • Under perfect conditions, conventional pistol sights are the fastest option.
  • However, in low light, lasers shine, making them great for carry or home defense guns.
  • Lasers shouldn’t be considered for just close-quarters encounters, though.
  • Paired with a scope, a laser sight can paint a target more than 200 yards out.

Several years ago at SHOT Show, at an indoor range on Media Day, I shot an S&W Bodyguard equipped with a laser sight. Out of curiosity, I held the gun at waist level and fired five shots at 10 yards. I put the laser sight on the X in the center of the target and all five rounds went into a ragged hole. I was impressed and decided then and there that any defensive gun I carried would be laser sight equipped. In our house, there are four personal defense/carry guns. All have lasers.

When The Lights Are Down

Viridian offers green laser sighting options for most pistol systems, along with holsters that activate the laser/light when the gun is drawn. - laser sight
Viridian offers green laser sighting options for most pistol systems, along with holsters that activate the laser/light when the gun is drawn.

Under perfect conditions, I can shoot faster with conventional sights. The problem is, most life or death defensive situations don’t happen under perfect conditions. In fact, most personal defense situations occur under poor light conditions, just the time when a laser shines, literally. Under low-light conditions, when conventional sights, or even Tritium sights, are difficult to see, a laser is highly visible and allows faster shooting. In home defense situations that might occur in the middle of the night, your eyes require time to adjust. A laser-equipped firearm aids in visibility and allows you to shoot more accurately and much quicker.

You can now get a laser sight for almost any defensive handgun you can imagine, and while a good laser sight isn’t cheap, it has the potential to be an invaluable aid when you most need one. I prefer the models that activate when the gun is gripped, and for this to work for me, the button must be under my middle finger just under the trigger guard.

Passive Activation

Laser systems for firearms are activated either manually — with a switch or button mounted on the unit — or passively, with switches activated when the gun is gripped or removed from the holster. For defensive use, passive activation is a good idea because concealed carry citizens aren’t accustomed to deadly force events … and the simpler the defense system, the better. If you choose a manually activated laser system, make sure you practice finding and activating it to the point it becomes a conditioned response.

Laser Carry

The Crimson Trace Laserguard Pro is a passively activated system that comes complete with a modular holster. - laser sight 1
The Crimson Trace Laserguard Pro is a passively activated system that comes complete with a modular holster.

When possible, I prefer grip-mount lasers because they allow use with standard holsters. Some of the front-mount units will work in some holsters, but grip-mounted units work with almost any holster designed for that gun. Grip-mount lasers add little or no weight, they’re virtually maintenance-free, and they’re easy for even a novice to install. Normally, one or two screws have to be removed and replaced, just as one would when changing grip panels.

For front-rail-mount lasers, Crimson Trace has resolved the holster situation with the excellent Laserguard Pro system that’s currently available for M&P Shield, Glock 42 and 43, and XD-S semi-autos. The system combines the manufacturer’s laser/light unit, passively activated with the middle finger on the grip, with a Bladetech holster that’s convertible for inside or outside the waistband, and for right- or left-hand use.

This rail-mounted system not only offers a laser, but also a powerful 150-lumen white light and can be programmed for combinations of laser, light, both and flashing operations. It’s available in both green and red laser variants. The standard Crimson Trace Laserguard is less expensive and doesn’t have the light, but it’s also available in green and red.

On a purely defensive carbine, the Crimson Trace LiNQ system provides both light and laser as a wireless passive activation system. - laser sight 2
On a purely defensive carbine, the Crimson Trace LiNQ system provides both light and laser as a wireless passive activation system.

Viridian has solved the holster and activation problem by creating a holster system that activates the laser sight when the gun is drawn. The Reactor system is offered for most defensive pistols, and different holster styles are available. The instant-on holster is included with the unit, and the Reactor system is available in both green and red lasers.

The Lasermax solution to the holster problem is to install the laser sight in the guide rod of the pistol. This system replaces the existing guide rod with one with a tiny laser inside the guide rod that’s activated by a switch within the replacement takedown lever. Installation is fairly simple, and it involves only a bit more difficulty than field stripping. The activation switch is ambidextrous, and the one I tested was certainly aligned well enough for defensive use.

Choose Your Color

While red lasers work wonderfully in low-light conditions, green lasers have the advantage of working as well in normal light conditions and might be the perfect solution to shooters with handicaps that prevent getting the sights into alignment with the eyes. Green lasers cost more and have shorter battery life, but the utility of daylight use might make them worth the difference.

Not Just For Short Range

Under low-light conditions, lasers are completely effective at ranges past 200 yards. I learned this several years ago at the Midnight Three Gun Invitational shoot in Bend, Oregon. At longer ranges, with a laser in conjunction with a variable power scope, it was easy to see and hit targets that would have been difficult to define otherwise. Unless there’s dust, fog or smoke, the laser beam is invisible and it paints the target, allowing a shot even when you’re not looking through the scope.

Simple Setup

The Lasermax system solves the holster problem by putting the laser inside the pistol’s recoil spring guide rod. The manual activation switch is in the takedown lever. - laser sight 3
The Lasermax system solves the holster problem by putting the laser inside the pistol’s recoil spring guide rod. The manual activation switch is in the takedown lever.

Once a laser sight is installed, it must be calibrated, and this is accomplished with the hollow head adjustment screws and the provided wrench. Adjustment requires no actual shooting if the sights are properly zeroed because you simply move the laser dot to show just under the front sight when the sights are properly aligned. Adjustments require little movement, and it might take a few tries to get it right, but once you’ve done it once or twice, it’s a 2-minute job.

When aligning a laser, it’s best to align it for a longer distance than normal personal defense distances of less than 7 yards. Like any sighting system, the sight is on a different axis than the bore of the gun, and with lasers, there’s more offset than there is with the sights on top of the barrel.

At short distances with the laser aligned at 25 yards, the offset is of little consequence. An inch or two normally isn’t an issue in a defensive situation. If the laser is aligned at 3 or 5 yards, the offset is exaggerated and can mean a meaningful change of zero at longer range. With the laser aligned at 25 yards, point of impact will be within 2 inches for the first 40 yards or so, providing more accuracy than most people are capable of producing.

This Crimson Trace CMR 206 laser, mounted on the top rail of this Colt CRP 18, offers a closer bore to laser alignment than traditional bottom rail mounting and allows for cowitness with the scope. - laser sight 4
This Crimson Trace CMR 206 laser, mounted on the top rail of this Colt CRP 18, offers a closer bore to laser alignment than traditional bottom rail mounting and allows for cowitness with the scope.

I align my lasers to be just below the level of the front sight when the sights are properly aligned. This allows the shooter to train with the normal sight picture and have the laser available for instant use should the light be too low for effective sight alignment. As an instructor, I’ve learned some shooters begin to rely on the laser instead of the sights, and I believe everyone should have the capability to shoot well with the iron sights in case the ambient light is too bright for easy laser acquisition.

Narrow Beam, Broad Applications

One of the great things about a laser-equipped defense gun is the ability to utilize the gun in almost any position. At a nighttime, laser-only competition I realized the value of this. Laser-equipped rifles, shotguns and handguns don’t have to be held in a position to see the sights. This can be a huge issue in a defensive situation under low-light conditions. Rather than extending the gun at eye level, you can keep the gun closer and lower, allowing totally unobscured vision of the threat in front of you and keeping the gun close to you when the threat’s in close proximity.

I believe every citizen should be capable of defending themselves, and I believe we all have a moral obligation to those who care about us to do so. I carry every day and in every location I can. I carry a firearm that’s capable of doing the job, and I want every advantage available to me. I know bad things don’t always happen under good conditions … and that’s why my daily carry gun will always have a laser.

Editor’s Notes: This article originally appeared in the August 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Classic Guns: Colt Model 1903 Pocket Pistol

By
Jerry Lee
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As a popularity leader in both the law enforcement and civilian circles, the Model 1903 dominated the early 20th century.

What makes the Colt Model 1903 special and collectible?

  • The Colt Model 1903 and later 1908 were quite popular in the early 20th century.
  • More than 572,000 Model 1903 Pocket Hammerless pistols were produced for civilians.
  • An additional 134,500 Model 1908s were produced for the civilian market.
  • The pistols were popular among police, civilians and criminal elements.
  • There are four different variants for both the Model 1903 and 1908.
  • Pistols marked “U.S. Property” are especially popular and valuable with collectors.

In the waning years of the 19th century, Colt was the first American gun manufacturer to take the semi-auto pistol seriously. The revolver was king — both single- and double-action variants — and civilian, law enforcement and military shooters of the day had not yet accepted the concept of the new “automatics.” Colt’s management believed that when the designs of semi-autos were perfected and could be counted on to function reliably, the world of handgunning would be changed forever.

Colt Model 1903 -3
Image courtesy Steve Gash.

The legendary gunsmith and inventor John M. Browning had designed several single-shot and repeating rifles in the 1880s and 1890s, some for his own company and some for Winchester, including several of that company’s most famous lever actions. Browning was also interested in the idea of self-loading firearms and, as early as 1889, was working on several designs, both full-auto and semi-auto models. In fact, the first firearm he created for Colt was the Model 1895 Automatic Machine Gun, a full-auto that was known as the “Potato Digger” in the Spanish-American War.

Browning shifted his focus to handguns, and the next design he did for Colt was a semi-auto pistol, the Model 1900, named for the year that Colt put the gun on the market. It was chambered for the .38 Auto, a cartridge developed by Browning. It had a 6-inch barrel, wasn’t very well balanced and not a success on the market. Only about 3,500 were manufactured, including a few hundred for the U.S. Army and Navy. The Model 1900 was replaced by the Model 1902, which had a few improvements, including a rounded butt and a round hammer spur. Next came the Model 1903 Pocket Hammer Pistol. It was essentially identical to the 1902 except for its 4 ½-inch barrel, which led to the “pocket pistol” concept.

Colt Model 1903 -4
Image courtesy Steve Gash.

Going Hammerless … Almost
The next Browning-designed model was the Model 1903 Hammerless Pocket Pistol, which became one of Colt’s most successful handguns of the 20th century. The “hammerless” reference was not accurate of course, but rather it was a marketing term to call attention to the pistol’s streamlined profile. The hammer was enclosed by the rear of the slide. Browning also designed a new cartridge for this model, the .32 Automatic Colt Pistol (ACP) round, which became one of the most popular handgun calibers in the world.

Colt Model 1903 -serialsThe Model 1903 Hammerless was on the market for more than 40 years, from the year of its introduction until the end of World War II. More than 572,000 were made for the civilian market and another 200,000 or so for military contracts, including several thousand for England, Belgium and the Philippines. An additional 134,500 Model 1908s in .380 ACP were manufactured, plus several thousand for military contracts at home and abroad.

John Browning gave the 1903 and 1908 design a smooth, graceful silhouette that epitomized what was called a “pocket pistol” at the time — today we’d call it a concealed carry gun. It’s a handsome pistol, and I know several writers who have referred to it as one of the best-looking handguns ever. Thanks to the film industry, the 1903 and 1908 Colt is one of our most recognizable pistols. In almost any black-and-white movie from the ‘30s and ‘40s that has a crime/drama theme, sooner or later one of the good guys or the bad guys pulls out one of these pistols.

Colt Model 1903 -1
Colt 1903 and 1908 pistols marked “U.S. Property” are popular with collectors. Expect to pay a premium for one of these pieces of history. Image courtesy Rock Island Auction Co.

The Pocket Hammerless was also known as the Model M, the official factory designation. It’s a straight blowback single-action design with a fixed barrel. When the gun is fired, the slide moves back, the empty case is ejected and the spring beneath the barrel returns the slide forward and the next cartridge is stripped off the top of the eight-round magazine, seven for the 1908 .380 ACP. There’s a thumb safety on the left side of the frame and a grip safety much like the one found on the Model 1911 series of pistols. The overall weight is a handy 24 ounces, and dimensions are 6.75 inches long, 4.5 inches high and 1.16 inches wide.

In both .32 ACP and .380 ACP versions, these pistols became very popular in police and civilian circles, including the criminal element. Al Capone was known to have carried a Model 1903 and John Dillinger was said to have had a Model 1908 on him when he was gunned down in July of 1934 as he came out of a movie theater in Chicago. It was reported that Bonnie Parker and Clyde Barrow had two Colt Pocket Models in their car when they met their demise a couple of months earlier in Louisiana.

Colt Model 1903 -2
After more than 70 years, the 1903 is back. Colt licensed this series to U.S. Armament Corporation. Image courtesy U.S. Armament Corp.

Variations Of Success
Over its 40-plus-year run, there have been four variants of the 1903 and 1908 pistols with features mostly relating to barrel length and the presence — or lack of — a barrel bushing in the design.

Colt Model 1903 -pricesType I models, made from 1903-1910, have a 4-inch barrel and a barrel bushing. Type II models (1908-1910) have a 3.75-inch barrel with bushing, Type III models (1910-1926) have no barrel bushing and retain the 3.75-inch barrel length, and Type IV models (1926-1945) have the addition of a magazine disconnect safety, meaning the gun will not fire unless the magazine is in place.

For those who have always wanted a brand new Colt Pocket Hammerless, there’s good news: Colt has licensed U.S. Armament Corporation to produce a limited run of Model 1903 General Officer’s Pistols. The project will be limited to 3,500 guns. It’s a well-crafted and faithful replica of a WWII-era Parkerized model. Grips are checkered walnut and wear gold Colt escutcheons instead of the original silver ones. The suggested retail price is $1,395. For more information contact USArmamentCorp.com.

This “Collector’s Corner” column is an excerpt from the October 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Accurate And Affordable Handguns For Any Shooter

By
Robert Campbell
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You will not achieve the best accuracy with a second- or third-rate handgun. Thankfully, there are a number of affordable handguns that still exhibit excellent accuracy.

There are plenty of affordable handguns that are also quite accurate:

  • Handgunners have lots of options when it comes to sidearms.
  • All are not equal, but many will shoot 2 inches at 25 yards for under $1,000.
  • Many accurate and affordable 1911s are being made by popular manufacturers.
  • In terms of hard-hitting, accurate revolvers, don’t overlook some of Ruger’s offerings.
Affordable Handguns Browning-Hi-Power
The Browning Hi Power 9mm was the first “wonder nine” and is a very reliable handgun.

The Most Accurate Handguns

When you consider accuracy you must determine first the use to which the handgun will be put.

A few years ago, I read an article describing how a shooter had a custom-grade Browning Hi Power put together with Novak sights and a Bar-Sto barrel — all great additions. Then the writer, obviously given the wrong assignment to cover, fired the piece at 7 yards and voiced the opinion that a defensive handgun would never be used past that distance!

There are competing demands on the handgun, but the worst case scenario is the one that I consider. I may limit my sure kill range when deer hunting to 35 yards with the .45 ACP, but would 50 yards be too much?

The Ruger Blackhawk .44 Magnum will stretch that range to all of 100 yards if I do my part. On the other hand, if you are going to shoot at Camp Perry, the emphasis will be on accuracy and the piece must be more accurate than most any off-the-shelf handgun.

Affordable Handguns revolvers
The Ruger SP101 .357 Magnum, top, is a handy, lightweight defensive handgun, while the GP100, lower, is a dandy all-around packing and hunting gun.

There must also be a balance of power and accuracy. The defensive handgun that isn’t going to be called upon past 7 yards may be the pistol on hand when you have the opportunity to stop an active shooter. It should be accurate enough for the chore and it should fire a powerful cartridge.

A target gun need only cut a hole in paper, but it may have to do so at long range. In a defensive handgun, reliability is a million times more important than anything else. In a competition gun, reliability is less important. The occasional malfunction with a .22 is par for the course.

Modern, affordable handguns have stronger, better steel than ever before and tighter tolerances. Modern Smith and Wesson revolvers have tighter throats than ever, resulting in a reduction of the accuracy problems that once dogged the .45 Auto Rim.

Modern Smith and Wesson revolvers in all calibers are more accurate than any previous revolver from this company. Ergonomics and sights are much better than ever before in all quality handguns. Handguns with tighter tolerances simply last longer.

There isn’t much slip or banging of misfit parts when the pistol fires, resulting in less wear. Accuracy and reliability are better, too.

Affordable Handguns Springfield-RO
The author’s go-to 1911 .45 is the Springfield Range Officer Operator. While an affordable handgun, it is also incredibly capable.

Today, we have off-the-shelf 1911 handguns that will deliver accuracy of 2 inches at 25 yards with good loads.

Affordable Handguns -1911Colt, SIG and Springfield 1911s with adjustable sights are available for the serious handgunner. While some experimentation with ammunition is necessary, these handguns are often surprisingly accurate. A modern magnum revolver may be even more accurate.

My personal Ruger GP100 .357 Magnum revolver is the single most accurate handgun I have owned, and I am not alone in this sentiment. The GP 100 has cut a 25-yard group on several occasions of 1 inch or less.

That is an incredible standard and I am certain I cannot shoot up to the capabilities of the handgun on most days, although it appears I have done so on a few occasions.

The better-quality 1911 handguns are among our most accurate pistols, while Magnum revolvers are often very accurate and more accurate, in my experience, than all but the finest self-loading pistols.

Affordable Handguns SIG-Sauer-P210
SIG’s P210 offers legendary performance. Many regard it as the finest-made 9mm handgun of all time. It is difficult to make an argument against that.

As for my personal testing, I could not fire every handgun and type of ammunition on the market. But chances are, the more quality guns will yield similar performance, as a Springfield Range Officer Target model and a SIG target-sighted 1911 tend to perform similarly. These are among the most useful of all handguns. Reliable, accurate and powerful they convey more than a little emotional attachment.

There are other affordable handguns that I find exceptionally pleasing to shoot and very accurate. The aforementioned classic Browning Hi Power is such a timeless design with many good features. I would not be hesitant to stake my life or a contest on a good specimen of one.

My own Hi Power has been fitted with a Bar-Sto Precision barrel, which made a considerable difference in accuracy. The average Hi Power can be expected to group five rounds of quality ammunition such as the Federal HST into 2.5 inches at 25 yards.

The trigger on the Hi Power is notoriously heavy, although later models are better and early handguns sometimes become much smoother with age.

The Bar-Sto fitted Hi Power will shave an inch off that group given proper fitting and carefully chosen ammunition. The SIG P210 is even more accurate straight from the factory, but very expensive and leaving something to be desired as for the location of its safety and general handling.

Affordable Handguns Ruger-GP100
The new Match Target version of the GP100 has features that make it more ergonomic than the standard model. Accuracy is easier to come by with this handgun.

The CZ 75 is respected for ruggedness and reliability. And it has a good reputation for accuracy. Although the contest is a tight one, in general the CZ 75 will outshoot the Browning Hi Power. It takes a fine shot to demonstrate this — and benchrest accuracy is theoretical when comparing combat guns — but I had rather have the CZ 75 in a fight than any other 9mm handgun. It is that good and the combination of features is excellent.

If you desire an accurate belt gun that is capable of personal defense at long range in the most demanding circumstances, of taking game and engaging in IDPA and ISPSC matches, the list of suitable, affordable handguns gets pretty short.

I have shot most of the available handguns and find that some are more accurate than others. The accurate handgun should also be capable of using a target load with less recoil than the full power service loads. This is very important in bettering your marksmanship skill.

After a long session with the .45 ACP, recoil sneaks up, giving you sore wrists. A good supply of medium-velocity handloads or target loads makes life easier.

In the revolver, target wadcutters or lead semi-wadcutters (SWC) loads are great practice loads. I recommend a diet of ten practice loads for every one full power service load. Both you and the handgun will last longer with this type of ammunition.

I recommend purchasing quality, yet affordable handguns and spending much more on ammunition. In addition, handloading is mandatory for marksmanship growth.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from The Accurate Handgun, available now at GunDigestStore.com

Ballistics Basics: What Is Headspace?

By
Philip Massaro
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What exactly is headspace, and how is it applied to different cases?

  • Headspace is distance from a case’s base to the point that prevents its forward movement.
  • Different cartridge types use different points on the cartridge case for headspacing.
  • Rimmed cartridges use the thickness of the cartridge rim for headspacing.
  • Rimless bottleneck cartridges headspace off the shoulder.
  • Rimless straight-walled cartridges (most pistol rounds) headsapce off the case mouth.
  • Some belted cases headspace off the belt, while others headspace off the shoulder.

What is headspacing?

Headspace is the distance from the base of the cartridge case to the point on the cartridge case that prevents the cartridge from moving any farther forward in the chamber.

To put this into real-world, appreciable terms, I’ll give some examples.

Headspace 4
Rimmed .45-70 Government cartridges.

A rimmed cartridge, whether straight-walled, tapered, or bottlenecked, uses the thickness of the cartridge rim for its headspacing. It is a positive method of headspacing, resulting in very uniform results, yet these cartridges don’t often feed well in bolt- or pump-action magazine rifles.

They do very well in lever-action rifles and revolvers, as well as single-shot and double rifles. Examples include the .30-30 Winchester, .45-70 Government, .22 Long Rifle, .38 Special and .357 Magnum.

Headspace 2
Rimless pistol cartridges.

The rimless bottleneck cartridges, like the .223 Remington, .308 Winchester, .30-06 Springfield and .270 Winchester, have an extractor groove cut into the base of the case, just north of the case head. As a result, these cartridges use the shoulder of the bottleneck for headspacing.

The shoulder is typically quite steep, upwards of 15 degrees (though there are exceptions like the .404 Jeffery) to prevent the cartridge from moving any farther forward in the chamber.

The rimless bottleneck design works perfectly in almost all repeating rifles, from lever to bolt to semi-automatic, to the military’s fully-automatic, belt-fed machine guns. So long as the firearm is properly headspaced, this bottlenecked rimless design will work as intended. The groove allows for excellent extraction, too; it’s a design common among many of our most famous cartridges.

Headspace 5 .25 automaticThe rimless, straight-walled cartridges comprise the most common choices for the modern, semi-automatic pistols. This style of cartridge uses the same extractor groove as its bottlenecked cousins, but since there is neither rim nor shoulder, it headspaces off the case mouth.

Note that this feature is especially important to those who handload this style of cartridge, as the projectiles cannot be ‘roll-crimped’ into the case; they must be taper crimped, or held in place by the use of a special die which squeezes the side wall of the cartridge around the shank of the bullet.

In this type of cartridge, the case length is of utmost importance as that distance is the sole dimension responsible for setting the headspacing. If you’ve ever picked up a 9mm Luger or .45 ACP that has a rather ‘sooty’ look around the mouth of the case, it is an example of poor (excessive) headspacing, either from the firearm’s chamber being too long, or the ammunition being too short. The .40 Smith & Wesson, as well as the 9mm Luger and .45 ACP, are all examples of pistol cartridges that headspace off of the case mouth.

How Belted Cases Headspace

The belted cartridges, based on the famous Holland & Holland design of the early 1900s, are a hybrid of the rimmed and rimless design. Because the rimmed design gave such fantastic headspacing, but didn’t feed very well from a box magazine, and the London firm didn’t want to rely on a steep shoulder for headspacing (both the .375 H&H and .300 H&H have gentle, sloping shoulders), they built a small shelf, or belt of brass into the case wall, just above the extractor groove.

So, in essence, the H&H belted cartridges use a “rimmed-rimless” case, which feed perfectly in repeating rifles, yet headspace off of the rim. Thus, the shoulder dimension is irrelevant.

While it is commonly thought that the .375 H&H Rimless Belted Magnum — the .375 H&H we all know and love — was the first cartridge released that featured the now-famous belt, that isn’t true.

Headspace 3
Holland & Holland’s .375 rimless belted magnum.

In 1905, Holland & Holland released the .400/.375 Belted Nitro Express, also known as the .375 Velopex, but its performance was poor in comparison to other Nitro Express cartridges of the era, so it didn’t last long.

Additionally, when the .375 H&H was released in 1912 it wasn’t alone. The .275 Holland & Holland Magnum, with a 2.500-inch case length and the same belt was released simultaneously.

Firing a 7mm projectile at some very familiar velocities, the .275 H&H Magnum is, in theory, the 7mm Remington Magnum. It just took 50 years for the shooting world to realize they wanted it!

Since the belt on any belted cartridge is there for headspacing, and has nothing to do with case strength, it’s rather ironic that there are so few belted cases that actually headspace off of that belt. Certainly the .375 H&H and .300 H&H, and I’d definitely include the .458 Winchester Magnum, .458 Lott, and the .450 Marlin, but the plethora of belted magnums (including the .300 Winchester and 7mm Remington Magnum, as well as the entire Weatherby family of cartridges) all headspace off of the shoulder.

Now, I know what you’re thinking: in the last half of the 20th century, no self-respecting “magnum” cartridge would be caught dead without its belt. It’s a very good point, but I think that the .375 H&H case was used as the basis for the brood of offspring ranging from the .257 Weatherby up to the .458 Lott — not for the ‘strength’ of the belt or for headspacing issues, but for the case capacity of the parent cartridge.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the Big Book of Ballistics, available at GunDigestStore.com.

Concealed Carry: What Do You Carry?

By
Doug Larson
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Deciding to concealed carry takes plenty of consideration, particularly determining which is the right gun for you.

How should you go about choosing a concealed carry gun?

  • Concealed carry gives armed citizens the advantage.
  • Potential attackers do not know who’s armed and who’s not.
  • The author will not disclose whether he carries, and suggests others don’t either.
  • There are some basic considerations for carry: climate, training level, concealablity.
  • A sub-compact, single-stack 9mm, for many circumstances, is adequate protection.

Where I live, a lot of people carry discreetly. As such, the bad guy doesn’t know who is armed and might shoot him. That makes every type of attack less likely, which makes everyone much safer. And that’s exactly how it should be.

Concealed Carry Pistol Being Drawn

So, I’m not going to tell you — or anybody — if I carry a gun or not and what that gun might be. And you shouldn’t — unless required by law — let other people know whether or not you are carrying. But I can give you the reasoning I would use if I had to choose a gun for concealed carry in public.

Why should you care what I think? I’m just like many of you, except I’ve had hundreds of hours of training in the use of handguns, rifles and shotguns from some of the best trainers and gun fighting schools in the world. And I’ve done a lot of research on the subject and learned directly from real gun fighters.

All of them have an opinion about what gun or caliber is best, and it’s reflected in what they carry when they have a choice. And the choice each person makes is right for them. So learn, get training and weigh the options. Then make your choice, but obey the law.

It’s hot where I live, so if I had to select a gun for concealed carry, it would have to be easy to carry discreetly in hot weather where a coat looks out of place. So small is better. But with more terrorist activity, the rise in attacks by multiple assailants is increasing, so it would be a good idea to have as much ammo on board as possible. While a double-stack 9mm pistol sounds good, it might not be as easy to hide as a single stack. And the same pistol in .45 ACP won’t hold as many rounds as a 9mm.

Walther PPS M2 Pistol

I’m getting older, and my bones and joints don’t work as well as they used to. After years of aggressive shooting, especially after shooting a lot of very high-powered handgun cartridges, I find that a gun in 9mm is much easier to control and more comfortable to shoot during long periods of training.

So, if I had to choose, I would not feel under protected by a sub-compact single-stack 9mm semi-automatic. But this is just my opinion, and it’s all hypothetical anyway. You should do what makes sense for you.

How-To: Trick Out Your AR Trigger

By
Tiger McKee
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An AR trigger upgrade should be your first move if you’re looking to enhance the performance and accuracy of your stock rifle.

What sort of trigger do you need in your AR?

The AR is a great firearm. It can be used for almost anything. There are plenty of aftermarket parts to work with, so you can custom configure it to fit any particular application. One of the first areas you should address is the AR trigger group. Regardless of the application of your gun, a good trigger will make getting accurate hits easier.

Shooting a AR rifle, finger on the trigger

The typical Mil-Spec AR trigger is pretty rough. It feels gritty. As you press it, it catches and grabs on the rough areas. However, one of the coolest features of the AR is its modular design. It’s simple to swap out various components, often without any special tools. There is no “fitting” required to swap out the AR trigger. As long as your receiver is within spec — which most are — all that’s required is to remove the old parts and install the new. And if you’re not sure about what you’re doing, have a qualified gunsmith address this for you.

Do not, under any conditions, modify the stock AR trigger components. These parts are heat treated, but only on their very surface. Polishing/grinding or removing material will take off the hard surface, leading to rapid wear on these areas. It might work great initially, but you’ll soon experience double-taps, which are shots fired as you reset or release. Sometimes, the result is full-auto fire. Modifying the factory components is dangerous.

Luckily, you don’t have to rework anything. There is a host of aftermarket companies offering great triggers for the AR. Once you decide what you’re going to do with the AR, you can then select the appropriate one.

Match vs. Defensive AR Triggers

The first decision to make is between a competition trigger for matches or a one for defensive and patrol use. Match or competition triggers are usually highly modified, varying in shape and weight significantly from the original designs. Some are adjustable. They have a very smooth action, and normally a greatly reduced pull — the amount of pressure required to drop the hammer. A lightweight AR trigger is fine on the range, or for a rifle set up for specific applications, such as a “special purpose rifle” for hunting or sniping. They are not for defensive or patrol use.

A match or competition trigger should not be used for defensive or patrol work. Under stress you lose dexterity in the fingers. During a violent confrontation, you’ll be moving, using different firing positions and fighting. An AR trigger that’s too light leads to negligent or unintentional shots fired. We see this occur during drills on the range, which means it will definitely be a problem under stress when lives are on the line.

AR Trigger upgrade with instillation tools

A light trigger can be a legal liability. “Common custom and practice” is the key phrase. For the AR, this means a trigger of at least 4.5 pounds or more. Going with one that’s lighter than what is accepted for the purpose has been a major factor in court cases. Mas Ayoob discusses this in his classes, citing a few court cases where “hair” triggers were major factors.

In Ayoob’s first case as an expert witness, Florida v. Luis, the light trigger was critical to the manslaughter charge against Alvarez, a police officer. In Santibanes v. Tomball, the lawsuit “alleged negligence because the officer had created, ‘with the best of intentions,’ a trigger pull lighter than the gun’s manufacturer specs for ‘duty/self-defense use.’” Although these cases involved handguns, the same can be applied to the AR.

If you’ve been following along with this column, or if you’ve been around ARs for a while, you know gear selection is dictated by the anticipated use of your rifle or carbine. This consideration is also mandatory when selecting an AR trigger. The wrong trigger can lead to embarrassing or tragic results. With the right one, however, the AR will do anything you need.

Single- vs. Two-Stage AR Trigger

You’ll also need to decide between a single- or two-stage trigger. The single-stage trigger requires one smooth press, from beginning to end, to fire the shot. You start pressing and, at some point, the shot fires.

A two-stage trigger has two phases. As you press and take out the first stage, you hit a “wall,” which is a distinct point where you start to feel increased resistance. This is where the second stage starts. Apply a little more pressure, and the shot fires. This provides a break point you can feel; you know when the shot is about to fire. For newer shooters, this can cause a flinch, tensing up in anticipation of the shot that’s coming. For an accomplished shooter, this can be an advantage: You’re able to fire the shot exactly when you want.

Drop-In vs. Standard Configuration

Today you have the choice between a drop-in AR trigger group and a “standard” group. Drop-in trigger groups are self-contained units pre-assembled within a housing. You remove the old parts, slip in the new group and install the pins to retain it.

The standard parts are just like the Mil-Spec originals. There are separate components that you assemble inside the receiver. Both types work very well, although the drop-in variety have started to gain popularity, especially with competitive shooters.

For competition triggers, or a “special purpose rifle” for surgical shooting, I recommend Geissele or Timney. Geissele offers several designs for the AR, featuring standard-type components to install. Timney specializes in drop-in units.

AR with trigger scale

For general-purpose or defensive AR trigger assemblies, I highly recommend ALG’s ACT trigger group. This group comes with all the parts needed — trigger, hammer, disconnector, springs and pins — to install in the AR. The ALG parts are Mil-Spec in size and shape, but they have polished and coated surfaces that provide a smooth action and crisp break. The group comes with two hammer springs: One provides a 4.5-pound trigger pull, and the other a 6-pound pull. This is a great trigger, especially considering the price, which is about $70.

Before you go out and spend a lot of money on a trigger for your AR, research and study not only what’s available, but also determine how you will use your gun. Go to the range and ask other shooters what they use. Whenever possible, test fire them. Eventually, you’ll discover what one best suits your purposes. Once you’ve got it installed, then work dry fire to learn the trigger, and live fire to check your results. While a good trigger won’t make up for insufficient skills, it will make it easier to get consistently accurate hits.

Editor’s Note: The article is from the September 2017 Gun Digest the Magazine.

Rifle Review: Team Never Quit Mk12CF Special Purpose Rifle

By
Brian McCombie
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The new Team Never Quit Mk12CF Special Purpose Rifle is a rugged tack driver fit for a number of purposes.

What to know about the new Mk12CF Special Purpose Rifle:

  • The Team Never Quit (TNQ) MK12CF SPR is a nimbler version of the MK12 Mod-1 SPR.
  • It retains all the excellent accuracy of the prior model.
  • A best group of .431 inch was achieved at 100 yards.
  • The Mk12CF SPR comes in two models, one with a Proof Research carbon-fiber barrel.
  • The other features a more traditional stainless-steel barrel.

Most Americans know Marcus Luttrell through Lone Survivor, Luttrell’s autobiographical book about his time as a Navy SEAL, and which was later made into the movie of the same name starring Mark Wahlberg. The central action of the book and the movie concerns Operation Red Wings, a mission by Luttrell and three other SEALS to find a top Taliban leader in Afghanistan’s Hindu Kush in June of 2005.

Team-No-Quit-first Mk12CF

Unfortunately, Red Wings did not go as planned, with Luttrell and his compatriots fighting a running battle against Taliban guerillas well before they found their intended target. Greatly outnumbered, the SEALS were killed one by one, except for Luttrell, who escaped by falling down the side of a mountain, literally, and was found and given sanctuary by a local Afghan villager.

When Luttrell retired from the Navy, he returned to his home in Texas and, among other things, continued to participate in three of his life’s passions: firearms, shooting and hunting. This led Luttrell to team up with friend and ex-SEAL Team member Garrett Golden. Golden is co-owner of the gun-making concern G2 Precision of Porter, Texas, and the two went to work on re-designing their duty rifle, the Mk12 Mod-1 SPR rifle. It was a fine rifle — very accurate and reliable — yet it weighed more than 10 pounds.

What they created is the Team Never Quit Mk12CF Special Purpose Rifle (SPR), built by G2 Precision. The Mk12CF SPR concept was to keep all the original rifle’s accuracy, precision and reliability, but with considerably less weight. Plus, Luttrell and Golden added a number of enhancements to increase the original’s functionality.

Team-Never-Quit-Sixth - Mk12CF

Recently debuted to the shooting public, the Mk12CF SPR comes in two models: a Proof Research carbon fiber-barreled Mk12CF SPR that weighs just 6 pounds, 11 ounces; and an Mk12CF SPR with a stainless-steel barrel that’s exactly 1 pound heavier.

As Luttrell said when the rifle was introduced, “This is the rifle I would want to take with me into battle.”

Less Beef, More Bite
I was fortunate enough to have access to both models of the Mk12CF SPR, among the very first production rifles, and spend a good deal of time with them at the range.

The Mk12CF SPR is chambered in .223 Wylde, so it can fire both .223 Rem. and 5.56x45mm rounds, and it operates on a rifle-length direct impingement gas system. Both models sport 18-inch barrels and feature the same set of controls.

Team-Never-Quit-second MK12CF

Before the end of my first magazine, my initial impression of the rifle was that the Mk12CF SPR just feels right. In hand. On the shoulder. Over a rest. Part of that good feeling has to do with the relative lightness of these ARs, and it’s easy to forget this about the AR-15 rifle as it was imagined and created: It’s supposed to be fairly light.

Somewhere along its evolutionary path, the AR-15 got heavier and heavier, even as it became more and more popular. More metal. Longer barrels. Full-length handguards. Stouter receivers. What had been a standard 6.5- to 7-pound rifle quickly became an 8-pounder. And then a 9-pounder. Today, you can still pick from a rather large selection of 10-pound AR-15s. Often very accurate and fine shooting rifles, these ARs are still a far cry from what Eugene Stoner’s original design sought to accomplish: a reliable combat rifle that was nimble and rugged.

The Mk12CF SPR feels like the rifle Stoner created — with numerous upgrades of course.

For example, the mag release, bolt catch and fire selector on the Mk12CF SPR models each have a dimpled texture on the contact surfaces that makes them easier to use and manipulate than standard Mil-Spec options.

Team-Never-Quit-seventh - Mk12CF

The full-sized Raptor Ambi charging handle lets you pull back the bolt smoothly and without the need for much force. The handle is easily reached, too, even with an optic mounted atop the rifles. The ERGO Pistol Grip molds to your hand, even when that hand is wet, sweaty and dirty, and the CMC Curved Two-Stage trigger snaps off cleanly and easily, and resets very fast.

The Mk12CF SPR also has a forward assist. Many AR makers are foregoing this, but I’m always glad when an AR I’m using has the assist. Shoot any AR long enough and hard enough, and you will find times where you want and need a forward assist. What if you don’t have one and are in a situation where pulling back at the charging handle isn’t an option? Then you invariably find yourself trying to push the bolt forward with all sorts of things definitely not made for the job, including car keys, screw drivers or empty brass cases. Your scratched up bolt will bear witness to what you really needed: a forward assist!

Accuracy In Spades
While in no way qualifying as a torture test, I did run more than 300 rounds through the two rifles without a single failure to feed or eject. I would also note that I used seven different types of .223 Rem. and 5.56x45mm ammunition, some of it made with high quality components, some of it not so much. The rifles handled all of it without a hiccup, and the bolt stayed open at the end of every magazine.

Team-Never-quite-acc

I shot approximately 150 rounds with each rifle, starting with the carbon fiber barreled model. Then, for my accuracy and ballistics testing, I switched to the stainless-steel barrel model and shot another 150 rounds. For an optic, I mounted a Leupold 3-9x40mm Mark AR scope on it, securing it with a one-piece Leupold Integral Mounting System mount.

I used three types of ammunition, all in .223 Rem., for my accuracy testing with the Mk12CF SPR stainless rifle: Browning BXV Predator and Varmint with a 50-grain poly-tipped bullet, Dynamic Research Technologies (DRT) Terminal Shock and a 55-grain HP frangible bullet, and Hornady’s 55-grain FMJ/BT load. All groups were fired at 100 yards from a sandbagged rest. The range was located outdoors; the day was sunny, with temperatures in the low 70s, with a light breeze quartering from left to right through the shooting.

For the five-shot and three-shot groups, the DRT ammunition took top honors. My best three-shot DRT group came in at .431 inch, and .866 inch for my top five-shot spread. The other two ammunition brands also posted numerous sub-MOA groupings, including the Browning load that drilled four shots into a group of just .463 inch.

Once the accuracy evaluation was done, I set up my PACT Professional XP Chronograph from Brownells, and fired 10 rounds of each ammo brand through the device. All three brands of ammunition came in right where you’d expect them to be, taking the SAMMI-rated fps velocities recorded with a 24-inch barrel, and adjusting for the somewhat diminished velocities you achieve with the Mk12CF SPR’s 18-inch barrels (see chart).
Team-never-quit-specs
What’s the only thing I wish were different about the rifle? The compensator brakes. While they certainly work to lessen recoil and do direct the muzzle blast away from the front of the rifles, they also tend to direct that blast back toward the shooter. A couple of shots on a hunt won’t be a big deal for the shooter. But when you’re firing dozens of rounds at a time, the smoke and debris coming back into your face — and going into your nose and lungs — becomes quite uncomfortable and distracting.

And what about uses for the Mk12CF SPR rifle? Given its lighter weight and long-range potential, the rifle will be a first-rate predator and varmint rifle, especially for the hunter walking a good number of miles during a day. Those same features make the rifle a good fit for various competitive shooting events, too, and an AR platform is usually a solid all-around choice for home defense.

The Team Never Quit Mk12CF SPR rifles can be ordered from the G2 website at G2Precision.com or through select authorized dealers.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the October 2017 Gun Digest the Magazine.

New Gear: Bushnell’s New Laser Sight Options For The AR-15

By
Elwood Shelton
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Bushnell has taken a different tact in its tactical aiming solutions, releasing three new laser sight options for AR-15s, perfect for close-quarters action.

What are the new laser sight options?

Typically when shooters shop for sighting systems for an AR-15, optics are the first thing to pop into mind. But are scopes and red dots always the right answer for every application? Bushnell is betting they aren’t.

The Kansas-based company recently moved a different direction with its tactical aiming solutions, releasing three laser sight systems. Purpose-built and adaptable to a variety of shooting styles and missions, Bushnell’s AR Optics Haste, AR Optics Chase and AR Optics Rush appear to arm shooters with systems dynamite for drawing a bead at close quarters.

“More and more MSR users are finding the benefits of laser sight systems impossible to ignore,” said AR Optics line manager Bryan Parrish. “Our engineers worked tirelessly to advance these systems, with innovative designs purpose-built for the rifle platform. With high-output lasers and easy, one-button, constant-on operation, the Haste, Chase and Rush outperform the competition and offer users a better way to make the shot.”

AR Optics Haste Laser Sight

AR Optic Haste Laser Sight
The Haste’s unique design not only provides shooters with a class-III laser sight, but also a way to get a better handle on their rifle. The aiming device’s unique housing provides users with an angled foregrip, giving them better overall control over an AR.

The model attaches to any standard Picatinny rail and is engineered to work with both a standard 16-inch AR-15 carbine and AR pistol. As an added benefit, and headache reducer, the Haste will not run afoul of NFA regulations pertaining to the attachment of a vertical foregrip on pistol configurations.

Operated through ambidextrous push-button controls, the unit is an option for both lefties and righties. And its polymer housing is waterproof, making the Haste ideal for shooters who don’t allow inclement conditions to get in the way.

Other features of the Bushnell Haste include a battery charging system that doesn’t require removal from the rail, full adjustment for windage and elevation and red and green laser sight options. The MSRP for the Haste is $248.95 for the red laser and $348.95 for the green, which will be available in January 2018.

AR Optics Chase Laser Sight

AR Optic Chase Laser Sight
The Chase is two sighting systems in one package. At the push of a button, the sight emits a continuous laser, but in a pinch, it also includes a flip-up post for a physical iron sight. The over-the-bore, forward mounting unit is just the ticket for those who need to transition from close range, to medium or long at a moment’s notice.

Designed for the most rugged usage, the Bushnell Chase is completely waterproof and features a strong exterior housing. The unit comes in red and green class-III laser options, both fully adjustable for windage and elevation, and features push-button controls for both sighting systems. The MSRP of the Bushnell Chase is $301.45 for the red laser sight and $401.45 for the green, available in January 2018.

AR Optics Rush Laser Sight

AR Optic Rush Laser Sight

Designed to integrate into an AR’s existing configuration, while providing a laser sight function, the Rush is versatile. The sight is actually a hi-rise mount with an integrated offset laser that saves space on the platform. This gives shooters the ability to seamlessly transition between any Picattinny rail compatible optic and the laser. The push-button control activates the fully adjustable sighting system, which emits a continuous class-III red or green laser. The MSRP on the Bushnell Rush is $275.95 for the red laser and $375.95 for the green version, which is available in January 2018.

5 Great Online Shooting Resources To Up Your Game

By
Elwood Shelton
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Load up on the online shooting resources you need to stay on target.

If you’re a gun owner, the Internet is your playground. From solid data for your next loading project to ballistics resources that help you understand a bullet’s flight from ignition to target when shooting, there is a wealth of information. Honestly, it would be fair to say that the everyday average shooter has more resources at his disposal now than perhaps any other time in the history of marksmanship. But the right data is as elusive as the X-ring on a MR-31 target.

Luckily, we’re here to help you find the vital info sure to have you shooting as sharp as ever. With that in mind, here are 5 Great Online Shooting Data Resources that will get and keep you on target.

This is by no means an exhaustive list and there are plenty of other shooting-related sites out there. So, tell us in the comments below where you like to go to crunch your ballistic numbers or research shooting data.

Reloading Data
Shooting Resources Reloading
Nothing can replace a reloading manual when it comes to cooking up a load. And when you take to producing your own ammo, in time you will accumulate a library of these valuable volumes. But for tinkering with new handloading ideas, the Hogdgon Reloading Data center is an invaluable tool.

The website gives you the ability to play around with a number of variables — cartridge, bullet weight, powder — for a potential load and then spits out the reloading data on the other end. Perhaps the best aspect is the side-by-side comparisons of powder performance for each bullet weight, giving a solid handle on what you can expect in the velocity and pressure departments for each propellant.

Of course, there are limitations on what the data center offers. You are strictly limited to Hogdgon’s universe (luckily a large one) of powders — Hogdgon, IMR and Winchester. And, for each weight, there is only a sampling of projectiles. But even with these limitations, the Hogdgon Reloading Data center is a top-notch way to play with new ammo ideas, before you take to the bench.

Ballistics Calculators
shooting-data-external
Aside from your mechanics in making a shot, practical marksmanship is a matter of mastering variables. Gravity, wind, on particularly long shots the coriolis effect all must be accounted for to get that tiny piece of copper-jacketed lead to land where you want it. In the simplest terms, conquering these is an exercise in math.

Far be it from me to disparage the pen-and-paper method of crunching numbers, but there are plenty of solid — and free — ballistics calculators online and at your disposal to simplify the process. Perhaps the most extensive is JBM Ballistics, which offers one of the widest selections of calculators on the Internet.

If you’re looking for a bare-bones calculator to get a handle on how your bullet drops for your particular location or if you want one that will account for minutia such as spin drift, this online tool has it.

It comes with a library of pre-loaded ammunition to choose from, but you’re also free to tinker with each variable all the way down to the length of the polymer tip of your bullet. For me, the handiest aspect of JBM Ballistics is its range card calculators, which do exactly what you’d expect — outputs a handy ballistic table perfect for taking into the field.

The site also offers a number of other calculators — recoil, power factor, maximum distance. It is the perfect way to lose hours online, but honestly, you’ll find that at JBM Ballistic it ends up being anything but wasted time.

Internal Ballistics
shooting-data-internal
If you’re in the market to buy an AR-15 for varminting, will a .223 Rem. reach out from a carbine-length barrel? Ballistically speaking, does polygonal rifling have any advantage over lands and grooves? There’s an easy what to find out — Ballistics by the Inch.

Originally, the site tested and published the relationship between barrel length and velocity for a number of handguns. Since then, it’s grown into a gold mine of internal-ballistic related data (and perhaps the best FAQ page on the web). And when you dig into the data — a labor of love of the four guys who run the experiments and site — it will smash preconceived notions and truisms you’ve heard about internal ballistics.

Here’s the draw back to Ballistics by the Inch — it’s limited almost exclusively to handgun cartridges. The exception is the .223 Rem. Nevertheless, the site does provide plenty of food for thought and could prove useful in fine tuning your next gun purchase.

Optics Selection
Shooting-Data-Optics
OK, you caught me — this is a blatant shill for a Gun Digest resource. But it’s free and extremely useful. The Handbook of Standard Reticle Patterns is perhaps one of the best resources for researching one of the more overlooked aspects of an optic.

You’re probably thinking — “Reticles? Really?” You bet, since you’re about to shell out your hard-earned money on a piece of equipment that costs as much, or exceeds that of your rifle. You’d better make certain you receive what you paid for and it better be capable of the mission in which it will be applied.

Col. D. Andrew Kopas helps you make certain you will with this 126-page handbook that compiles 250 tactical-style reticle patterns from the most popular optics companies. In many cases, you can drill down on what you’re looking for with the guide, and its ample subtension measurements and other explanatory data.

This is a great resource if you’re in the market for a high-end piece of glass and want to shop for your exact needs. And if you’ll allow me to shill just a bit more, checkout Gun Digest’s entire free resources page — there’s plenty of great info to load up on.

Terminal Ballistics
shooting-data-terminal
If you are interested in understanding what happens once a bullet reaches its target, then Brass Fetcher Ballistics Testing is for you.

Run by mechanical engineer John Ervin, the site documents the terminal ballistics tests he runs for ammunition developers. It also has some of the best ballistics gel testing footage available on the Internet. From the mild-mannered .22 LR to the behemoth .50 BMG, there are hours of slow-motion footage of Ervin’s experiments. On top of that he supplies plenty of supporting data on each test’s terminal ballistics, at the bare minimum the kinetic energy transfer.

Do you need to see hours of ballistics gel abuse to make you a better marksman or choose the right caliber and ammo? Probably not. But at the same time, it’s a great aid in visualizing what happens when a bullet reaches its target. And a better understanding of what you’re doing when you’re behind the trigger is never a bad thing.

New Ammo: Hornady Announces New 2018 Ammunition

By
Elwood Shelton
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As usual, Hornady Manufacturing has been busy rolling out a number of new lines of ammunition and expanding existing offerings to gear up for 2018.

What’s New With Hornady?

As always, when it comes to ammunition, there’s plenty cooking in Grand Island, Nebraska. Home of Hornady Manufacturing, the corn-swept plains is an epicenter of ammo, reloading and security innovation each year. And 2018 is shaping up no different.

Hornady recently released a sneak peek at its new product lineup for the impending year. And there is enough rolling off the company’s manufacturing floor to foul an entire brigade’s rifles.

So, as to keep everything straight, we’ll give a look at each of Hornady’s new categories in turn. Of course, we’ll save the best for first and jump headlong into the company’s mountain of new ammunition.

Critical Defense Rifle

Critical-Defense-Rifle-beauty-shot
Up to now, Hornady’s Critical Defense line of ammunition has been strictly a handgun affair (with the exception of a .30 Carbine load that has been around for a while). But with more shooters turning to tactical rifles for personal and home defense, Hornady saw the opportunity to arm long gun shooters with premium ammunition.

The heart of the round is the Critical Defense FTX bullet that boasts Hornady’s patented Flex Tip. The polymer tip not only helps the bullet expand quickly even at low velocity, but it also keeps the cavity free from clogging.

The bullet’s quick expansion makes the round ideal for short-range engagements, reducing the potential of over-penetration. Hornady has even turned an eye to modern gun designs, with the Critical Defense Rifle line engineered to deliver top performance even out of shorter barrels, which are becoming more and more common.

Available Loads:

  • .223 Rem. 55-gr. FTX
  • .223 Rem. 73-gr. FTX
  • .308 Win. 155-gr. FTX

Hornady Subsonic Ammunition

Subsonic-ammunition
The .300 Blackout has become one of the most popular chamberings for the AR-15, due to, among other things, the fact that the round is eminently capable of being suppressed. With its Subsonic Ammunition, Hornady has attempted to arm Blackout shooters with a stealthy round that still provides accuracy and power.

Hornady has loaded these rounds hot for subsonic, with its data listing the muzzle velocity out of a 16-inch barrel at 1,050 fps. But this allows top performance from the 190-grain Sub-X bullet, especially at close range.

At 1,020 fps, the Flex Tip round meets or exceeds FBI Protocol terminal ballistics test requirements. Optimized for subsonic performance, the Sub-X’s flat polymer Flex Tip and serrated jacket ensure the hollow point expands quickly and violently.

Hornady even went as far as to enhance the powder in its Subsonic Ammunition. The propellant is not only engineered for optimal performance below the speed of sound, it also reduces the flash signature.

6.5 PRC

6-5-PRC—gr-ELD-Match
Hornady is, in part, responsible for the surge in popularity of 6.5mm chamberings. The company did, after all, cook up the 6.5 Creedmoor. Now it’s shooting to push the ballistically gifted caliber even further.

The 6.5 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) offers shooters a stepped-up option for long-range hunting or precision shooting. Designed to operate in short or medium actions with standard magnum bolt faces, the cartridge offers a flat trajectory and minimal recoil. Its case has been tweaked for maximum performance as well, with a long neck and 30-degree shoulders. Hornady has initially offered a Precision Hunter load tipped with a 143-grain ELD-X bullet and a Match offering with a 147-grain ELD Match bullet.

At this point, there are just a handful of rifle makers offering 6.5 PRC chamberings: GA Precision, Gunwerks, Horizon Firearms, PROOF Research, Stuteville Precision and Seekins Precision. But if it follows its little brother’s footsteps, expect many more to come out of the woodwork as time wears on.

Frontier Cartridge

Frontier-Cartridge
Hornady has teamed up with the manufacturing prowess of the Lake City Army Ammunition plant to offer military-grade ammunition at an economical price. Frontier Cartridges are manufactured at the Missouri facility and are tipped with Hornady bullets.

This is not the first time Lake City and the Nebraska manufacture have come together to produce ammunition. The original Frontier Ammuntion, launched by Hornady in 1964, utilized Lake City brass.

Hornady is offering 11 different rounds in its launch of Frontier Cartridges, all in .223 Rem., and 5.56 NATO. The company touts the line as ideal for everything from plinking to target shooting to hunting to law enforcement training.

Available Loads:

  • .223 Rem 55-gr. FMJ
  • .223 Rem 55-gr. Spire Point
  • .223 Rem 55-gr. Hollow Point Match
  • .223 Rem 68-gr. BTHP Match
  • 5.56 NATO 55-gr. FMJ M193
  • 5.56 NATO 55-gr. Hollow Point Match
  • 5.56 NATO 62-gr. FMJ
  • 5.56 NATO 62-gr. Spire Point
  • 5.56 NATO 62-gr. BTHP Match
  • 5.56 NATO 68-gr. BTHP Match
  • 5.56 NATO 75-gr. BTHP Match

Dangerous Game Series

Dangerous-Game-ammunition-DGX-Bondedt
Hornady has deep roots in big and dangerous game hunting. And it has tweaked its renowned Dangerous Game Series to be all the more potent.

The premium hunting ammunition is now being loaded with either DGS (Dangerous Game Solid) or DGX Bonded bullets, providing utterly devastating terminal ballistics. The lead cores of the DGX Bonded bullets, boned to the jackets, expand predictably, while retaining a high amount of mass once traveling through the target.

15 new loads available:

  • 9.3X74R 300 gr. DGS
  • .375 H&H Mag 300 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .375 Ruger 300 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .450-400 Nitro Express 3″ 400 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .404 Jeffery 400 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .416 Ruger 400 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .416 Rem 400 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .416 Rigby 400 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .500-416 Nitro Express 400 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .450 Rigby 480 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .450 Nitro Express 31⁄4″ 480 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .458 Win 500 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .458 Lott 500 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .470 Nitro Express 500 gr. DGX Bonded
  • .500 Nitro Express 3″ 570 gr. DGX Bonded

Expanded Existing Ammunition Lines

Precision Hunter

  • 6mm Creedmoor 103-gr. ELD-X
  • .25-06 Rem 110-gr. ELD-X
  • .257 Wby Mag 110-gr. ELD-X
  • 6.5 PRC 143-gr. ELD-X
  • .270 WSM 145-gr. ELD-X
  • .280 Ackley Improved 162-gr. ELD-X
  • 7mm WSM 162-gr. ELD-X
  • .338 Win Mag 230-gr. ELD-X
  • .338 Lapua Mag 270-gr. ELD-X

Superformance Match Ammunition

  • .223 Rem 73-gr. ELD Match
  • 5.56 NATO 73-gr. ELD Match

Custom Rifle

  • .243 Win 87-gr. V-MAX
  • .30-40 Krag 180-gr. SP

Match

  • 6.5 PRC 147-gr. ELD Match
  • .300 Win Mag 195-gr. ELD Match
  • .300 Norma Mag 225-gr. ELD Match

Varmint Express

  • 6mm Creedmoor 87-gr. V-MAX

LEVERevolution

  • .307 Win 160-gr. FTX

American Whitetail

  • .300 WSM 165-gr. InterLock

4 Types Of Handgun Shooters — Which Are You?

By
Robert Campbell
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You need to give your own handgun skills an honest appraisal. From novice to expert, these standards will encourage the average shooter to excel and present a basis for procedure.

  • Handgun shooters can be classified by novice, beginner, specialist and expert.
  • An honest evaluation of your handgun skill level is necessary to advance.
  • A novice may not win a fight, while a professional should be decisive in a battle.
Note Jessie Duff’s grip and trigger finger position — she gets it right and wins the big money! handgun shooters
Note Jessie Duff’s grip and trigger finger position — she gets it right and wins the big money!

Novice
The novice may be able to safely load, unload and handle his or her personal sidearm with a minimal amount of fumbling. Their level of competence is more broad than deep. This is the beginning level for each of us.

While indeed minimal, it is the common skill level of quite a few non-dedicated service personnel. Shooters at this level may not survive gunfights. It really depends upon their mindset.

At short range, marksmanship problems are not severe, but the combat mindset is questionable. Shooters in this class are likely recreational shooters on the civilian side. Peace officers at this level maintain their marginal skill by yearly qualification.

Many look forward to these qualifications as much as they looked forward to high school fire drills. Their tactical mindset is influenced more by the media than reality. Among this group you will find many that rely upon skills they cannot demonstrate. The single greatest shortcoming among this group is a lack of complete familiarity with their sidearm.

The author demonstrating a good, solid grip with the thumbs forward and proper trigger finger placement. Handgun shooter
The author demonstrating a good, solid grip with the thumbs forward and proper trigger finger placement.

Beginner/Proficient
The beginner may be a product of a personal training program or an agency with quarterly qualifications. Their training is likely to be relatively narrow but perceived as adequate.

Some within this group realize there is room for improvement. It is important to note that this is the highest level of skill sustainable by many with job and family demands. A homeowner who keeps a firearm primarily for home defense has done well to reach this level. A peace officer trained to this level who combines his skill with streetwise tactics will be a formidable shooter.

This is the highest level of skill to which administrative qualifications will lead. While common street thug adversaries are often at the duffer level, some criminals reach the beginner-proficient level.

In my experience, very few of our protein-fed, ex-con criminal class rise past the novice level. The proficient class of shooters is common among those who shoot in IDPA matches. The proficient level of skill is sustainable with monthly practice and not out of the reach of anyone of normal strength and dexterity.

Specialist
This level isn’t one that you arrive at by accident. Hard work is needed.

The specialist is good at a number of skills. He or she will deploy a top-grade handgun and be able to use it well. This person knows the likely threat profile and practices diligently to address this threat.

Well-versed in the tactics and skills likely to be needed in a personal protection scenario, they are able to handle unexpected problems. The specialist is often deeply opinionated, has formal training and often gravitates to training others.

52Colt’s Maggie Reese demonstrates an excellent all-around firing grip and trigger finger placement. handgun shooters
Colt’s Maggie Reese demonstrates an excellent all-around firing grip and trigger finger placement.

The Professional
The professional has a lot of answers dependent upon the situation. He is conversant in marksmanship and gun handling as well as advanced tactics. He is familiar with a number of firearms.

While he has opinions concerning firearms, he regards each as a tool. The professional does not consider training the goal but a means to an end. His marksmanship skills are well-honed and consistent.

He has fewer bad days and brilliant moments than the rest of us, but rather his skill is consistent. He is responsible for his actions and strives to learn new tactics while respecting the tactics and skills that saved his life in the past. His skills are demonstrably superior to most of those he trains but they are hard-won.

While the specialist is a product of official training, the professional may only be produced by diligent effort on his own time — and his own dime. His training time is measured in thousands of hours. I know such men. Three have run my training classes and two were United States Marines. I also attended a class as a student with such a marksman (the only one in his class at the course), and he too was a Marine. I have no military experience and I can only state that the Marines are doing something right.

As for the third I met, he was a U.S. Army veteran that had been injured overseas. Despite muscle tremors that challenged his considerable skill he aced the course and demonstrated extraordinary ability. Very few instructors have the privilege of training such men.

Editor’s Note:This article is an excerpt from The Accurate Handgun, available now at GunDigestStore.com

.45 ACP Vs 9mm: Does The .45 Still Reign Supreme?

By
Doug Larson
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The .45 ACP has long been one of the most popular for personal defense among those who carry, but is the 9mm starting to edge it out?

In .45 ACP vs 9mm, is the .45 still the top self-defense choice?

  • A key point in choosing self-defense ammo is its ability to quickly neutralize a threat.
  • The .45 ACP, .40 S&W or 9mm are the most commonly argued for calibers.
  • Hornady’s chief ballistician Dave Emery says there’s little difference between them.
  • Terminal performance of modern defensive rounds is relatively similar in ballistics gel.
  • Some stick to the .45 ACP — if technology fails, the round still makes a bigger hole.

While attending a recent event where .45-caliber semi-automatic handguns, double-action revolvers and single-action revolvers were shot at contact to long-range targets in simulated self-defense situations, it brought to mind the United States’ long-standing love affair with the .45-caliber handgun round. Yet, many who carry a handgun as part of their job choose to use other handgun cartridges, such as the .40 S&W and 9mm Parabellum.

The .45-caliber handgun round in America has evolved from the .45 Colt introduced in 1873 (left), followed shortly after by the .45 Schofield (center) to the .45 ACP used in John Browning’s 1911 semi-automatic handgun.
The .45-caliber handgun round in America has evolved from the .45 Colt introduced in 1873 (left), followed shortly after by the .45 Schofield (center) to the .45 ACP used in John Browning’s 1911 semi-automatic handgun.

The disagreement about what’s the best handgun cartridge for self-defense never seems to end, and it probably never will until someone invents a handgun that will always stop a felonious assault immediately.

You see, handguns just aren’t very effective fight stoppers. The reason people carry them is because they are easy to keep out of sight and they’re readily available in an emergency. Rifles in almost any caliber and shotguns are much better at stopping an aggressor, but they’re not easy to carry — and, incidentally, they too are not perfect at immediately stopping an attack. So, for the time being, handguns are the method of protection that most people rely on.

But, you say, on TV and in the movies, if a guy gets shot with a handgun, he goes down right away. That’s the movies, and it’s Hollywood, where fantasy reigns. It’s not real life.

In his book, Guns, Bullets, and Gunfights, Jim Cirillo, a real gunfighter and member of the New York Police Department Stakeout Unit, states, “I have seen felons get shot with 158-grain .38 Special, 200- and 230-grain .45 ACP, 115-grain 9mm hollow points, 110-grain .30 Carbine and 12-gauge 1-ounce slugs, and only two of those [many] incidents were one-shot stops.”

More .45 ACP Articles:

Keep in mind that human spirit and determination varies. Some people intent on doing injury to others will be stopped and scared off at the mere sight of a gun. Others will be stopped by a minor injury or thumping them with a fist. But a small number will not stop unless they’re physically unable to continue.

.45 ACP revolver used in target practice
The double-action revolver is not obsolete and is still a viable choice for self-defense if its limitations are realized and the user has the proper training.

For the last group, they must no longer be able to breathe, the blood supply must be interrupted so that muscles and organs can no longer function, a bone must be broken so that the person can no longer control the body, or the nervous system must be disrupted so that the brain can no longer send signals to the muscles.

And even if the air or blood supply is cut off, a person can still function for long enough to continue an attack and kill a victim. So, the goal for a law-abiding citizen, who has no other choice to save his life or prevent serious bodily harm from a felonious attack, is to do as much damage as necessary to quickly stop the attacker. Notice that the goal is not to kill the attacker, but to stop the attack. If the attacker turns and runs, that’s a good outcome, but if the attacker is killed in lawful self-defense, that’s a consequence the attacker assumed when starting the aggressive behavior.

Given these realities of life, it makes sense to carry a handgun chambered in the most effective cartridge available that the shooter can shoot accurately, quickly and can carry discreetly. This is where the argument begins. And the argument has been raging for decades with no clear winner.

It’s All In The Ammo: .45 ACP vs 9mm, .40 S&W

The FBI and other law enforcement organizations are switching to the 9mm Parabellum. Reasons include lower recoil generated by the 9mm round, which makes it easier for many people to shoot accurately and get back on target quickly for follow-up shots. And a 9mm handgun can carry more rounds than the same-sized handgun chambered in .40 S&W or .45 ACP. That’s an important consideration given the rising frequency of group attacks by terrorists or gang members.

.45 ACP and 9mm in ballistic gel
When fired into ballistic gelatin to test the relative effectiveness of handgun rounds, the Black Hills 9mm (top) has about the same penetration as the Black Hills .45 ACP +P round (bottom). The temporary wound cavities are very similar, with the .45 only slightly wider, but not as long.

But probably the biggest reason for the switch is the recent improvement in handgun round terminal ballistics. According to Dave Emery, wizard and senior ballistician at Hornady Manufacturing, an innovative maker of a variety of ammunition, there’s now very little difference in the actual terminal performance in ordnance gelatin between premium self-defense .40, .45 and 9mm projectiles.

Yet the disagreement continues. While some excellent firearms trainers and experts, many who have carried a gun for a living and participated in real gunfights, have switched from .45 ACP to 9mm, others still carry the .45 ACP.

No less than the late Pat Rogers, who I have trained under and who has used a gun while in the U.S. Marines and as an officer with the New York Police Department, switched from a 1911 chambered in .45 ACP to a double-stack, striker-fired 9mm polymer-framed pistol. And many experienced gunfighters have done the same. But others, like retired Sheriff Ken Campbell, who is the Chief Operations Officer at Gunsite Academy, still favor the .45 ACP.

Campbell points out that gelatin blocks are not human and that humans are much more complex and react differently than an inanimate, unmotivated blob of jelly. He recognizes the improvement in self-defense bullet technology that has resulted in better terminal ballistics for the 9mm round, but the .45 ACP bullet has also improved.

“I’ll stick with the bigger bullet,” Campbell says. “Again, when technology fails, the .45 ACP makes a bigger hole. Also, it has a greater chance of hitting something vital since it is wider.”

But Campbell is rational and not married to the .45 ACP just because of tradition. He recognizes that getting multiple, fast and accurate hits in vital locations is more important than bullet performance, and if he ever gets to the point that he physically cannot control the .45 ACP adequately, he will consider switching to smaller bullets. In fact, despite the 1911 .45 ACP heritage associated with Gunsite, the school regularly teaches students how to effectively use other guns in other calibers.

For some, the .45 ACP works best, but for others, the .380 ACP or an even smaller round is the right choice. There is no way everyone is going to agree on this, so the debate continues.

Editor’s Notes: The article originally appeared in the September 17 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

How To Choose The Right Suppressor

By
Patrick Sweeney
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A suppressor is designed for the caliber it’s meant to handle. Find out how to choose the right suppressor, especially if you want to use it on more than one gun.

Tips to choose the right suppressor:

Suppressors are designed for a specific use. That is, they are made to fit a particular caliber because bullet size, gas flow and pressure matter. I don’t care how good a 5.56 suppressor you own, if you put it onto a .308 rifle you are going to be very unhappy, very quickly. Try as it might, the bullet is not going to fit through the hole in the baffles and will end up making its own holes. Thus, the importance of choosing the right suppressor.

We’re jumping ahead a bit here, but rimfire cans, 5.56 cans and 9mm ones will have the same thread pitch; one-half-inch in diameter, with threads pitched at 28 per inch.

A rimfire suppressor screwed onto a 5.56 rifle will have a short and unhappy life, and it will be even shorter and messier if it is threaded onto a 9mm pistol. If at some point in the future you have any of these combinations in firearms and suppressors, be very, very careful what you put on where. And do not let your friends, relatives or gun club buddies at the range just screw on whatever suppressor fits. If you don’t attach the right suppressor, the results could be very bad, or at least, quite expensive.

Choose Right Suppressor - 1
Suppressors come in a variety of sizes, for different calibers and uses. There is no “one size fits all,” so don’t expect one.

Finding The Right Suppressor By Caliber

A suppressor is designed for a particular volume and strength, according to the caliber it is meant to deal with. As a result, you’ll see limitations from the manufacturer on a suppressor. “Rated for .308 Winchester, barrels longer than 12 inches” is one example. Or, “Rated for .300 RUM down to 16-inch barrel, .300 WinMag to 12 inches and .308 to 8-inch barrel lengths.”

They have designed and constructed a suppressor that can handle a certain amount of pressure and can deal with a certain maximum gas flow volume, and they are being up-front about what their suppressor will take.

Why? Simple, the noise you hear is caused by pressure. When the cartridge is fired, the chamber pressure is at its maximum, then the pressure goes down as the bullet moves forward, due to the increasing volume of the bore, with the bullet as the plug. When the bullet leaves, there is a certain pressure at the muzzle, called the “uncorking pressure,” and that is what causes the noise we are trying to control.

The higher the initial pressure, the greater the residual pressure down the bore. The shorter the barrel, the higher the uncorking pressure, simply because the expansion volume of the bore hasn’t increased enough to drop the pressure.

Choose Right Suppressor - 2
Some rifles are louder than others. A short barrel will be louder, unless the caliber is markedly smaller.

And here’s the important part for those of you interested in putting the right suppressor on your big boomers: the powder you use (or the ammo company uses) also makes a difference. A slow-burning or “progressive” powder acts to keep the bore pressure up as the bullet travels forward. That is part of how it gets you more velocity. (That, and a higher starting pressure.) So, your .300 magnum, of whatever type, is going to not only burn more powder, but a slower-burning powder than a .308 would, and this increases both the volume and uncorking pressure that a suppressor has to deal with.

That’s why suppressors are rated for a minimum barrel length.

As long as you are within the pressure and volume limits the manufacturer lists, and at or under bullet diameter, you are okay.

Your .308-rated suppressor will be just fine, and happy as a clam, if you put it onto your smaller-cartridge-case rifle or smaller-bullet-diameter rifle. That is, the 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Grendel, .260 Remington, 243, etc. It will find a .223/5.56 rifle a piece of cake to deal with, being both a smaller case and smaller bullet.

However, it will not be as happy with a .270 Winchester or .280 Remington, and it will be very unhappy if you put it on a 7mm Remington Magnum.

You have to consider bullet diameter, chamber pressure, case volume and expected burn rate of common powders if you are going to use a suppressor across cartridges and in different firearms.

When in doubt, drop a line to the manufacturer. They’ll be happy to tell you if what you have in mind is okay or not, and if you have the right suppressor for the job. In fact, they’d prefer it if you ask ahead of time.

Choose the right suppressor - 3
Precision firearms need precision suppressors, and that’s why there is such a price range in suppressors. Not just the materials, but the tolerances to which those parts are held.

Rimfire Suppressor Considerations

Rimfires are not just rimfires. There is the common and expected (but surprisingly sharp) .22LR. The Twenty-Two Long Rifle has a chamber pressure of 21,000 PSI, but the expansion ratio (the ratio of the case compared to the case plus bore when the bullet leaves the muzzle) is so great that pressure has dropped to perhaps the firearm’s minimum by uncorking.

Change that to the .22 Magnum and things get more involved. Not because the expansion ratio is so much different, but that the magnum uses different powders and retains more pressure, garnering the extra velocity it is marketed for. Ditto the various .17s.

And then when you go to the 5.7×28, the FN cartridge, the case is a lot bigger, the expansion ratio is much smaller, and the uncorking pressure a lot more. As a result, some rimfire suppressors will be rated for the 5.7 and others will not.

As above, when in doubt, ask. Putting your perfectly fine and happy with your 10/22 rimfire suppressor on your buddy’s SBR’d FN PS90 may make for a bulged or broken suppressor.

Choosing The Best Suppressor For Handguns

The common handgun suppressor is for the 9mm, the most popular. There are others made for the .40 and .45, but they are less common. It is typical for someone who wants one suppressor to fit them all to buy a .45 and have rear cap adapters to fit it onto 9mm and .40 handguns. Yes, it has larger bore holes than would be called for in those applications, and thus will be a bit noisier, but it will amount to a decibel or a few at most. That, compared to the cost savings of having just one, appeals to many.

The Right Suppressor For A Rifle

Most people either get caliber-specific suppressors, or they invest in one or two (or more). The common approach here is to buy a .308 and use it on everything .308 and smaller, including 5.56, and add a second one that will handle the big magnums, like the .300s, or even jump up to a .338 suppressor, which will laugh at the efforts of your biggest .300 magnum.

Choose right suppressor - 4
A well-built suppressor will stand up to a lot, but you can exceed the limits of anything. This suppressor was put on a belt-fed machine gun and left there until it and the barrel were visibly drooping from the heat.

How To Attach A Suppressor: Mounts

You can’t just use duct tape and baling wire to secure a suppressor. There are two types: direct-thread and quick-detach (QD). Some manufacturers have begun making suppressors with a rear cap that is a socket, and you can then thread into the socket either a direct-thread or a QD system.

Why elaborate systems to keep the suppressor on? Simple, each time you shoot, the jet of gases flow out of the muzzle, behind the bullet, and crash into the first baffle, the first surface ahead of them in the expansion chamber. “Big deal,” you say? Let’s do a quick bit of math. If the uncorking pressure of your rifle is only 7,500 PSI, and the impact surface of the baffle in the expansion chamber is only one-half of a square inch in surface, then the suppressor gets hit with a jet of gas that generates 3,750 pounds of impact. Impact that is trying to drive the suppressor off the muzzle.

That’s why you want good, sturdy threads on your barrel.

Pros And Cons Of A Direct-Thread Suppressor

This is exactly what it sounds like. An example would be a 5.56 rifle with the muzzle threaded for 1/2-28. The rear cap of the suppressor would be threaded 1/2-28, and you simply screw the suppressor on (after taking off the flash hider, if any) and tightening it to stay.

The advantages of direct-thread are obvious: It is less expensive, it is lighter and it is durable. The disadvantages are equally obvious: You have to spin your suppressor for as many turns as it takes to get it tight. If the thread pitch is 28 tpi, and you have half an inch of threaded shank, then it will be fourteen turns to tight.

Tight for a rifle suppressor is not just hand-tight. You will want to use a wrench to generate enough inch-pounds of torque to keep the suppressor on tight.

If you have one rifle and you won’t be using your suppressor on any other, then direct-thread is a no-brainer. If you are going to use it on more than one, then it is a decision between you and your wallet as to your choice.

The options are:

  • Buy a suppressor for each rifle;
  • Keep a wrench handy to swap suppressor or suppressors around on your rifles; or
  • Buy a suppressor that uses a QD mount and install those mounts on each rifle so you can quickly swap the suppressor.

Quick-Detach Suppressor Mounts

This also, obviously, means quick-attach. The process is simple. The manufacturer makes a device that threads onto your barrel. This device has a set of threads or a quick-lock system that the suppressor latches onto. You can screw the suppressor onto the mount with a turn and a half. Or, slide it on and turn the locking collar a half-turn to lock on the suppressor.

The advantages are several. First, you can have a flash hider or muzzle brake on your rifle, even when the suppressor is off, if that’s how the mount is made (and many are).

You can swap your suppressor from one rifle (or handgun) to another quickly, without the use of tools. Of course, this supposes the suppressor is cool, as you won’t be swapping a suppressor bare-handed when it is at 700 degrees.

The big deal with this is economics. I just did the arithmetic with a suppressor that happens to be on my desk as I write this, a Sig SRD556QD. Sig makes the same suppressor as a direct thread, the SRD556.

The SRD556QD lists at $695 and mounts are $60 each. The SRD556 is $545. By the time you buy two SRD556 suppressors, you could have bought one SRD5566QD and six extra mounts. If you have that many .223/5.56 rifles, you can swap one suppressor between them.

The downsides are also simple: a QD-built suppressor is going to cost more than a plain direct-thread model. (That is, manufacturer-specific, model-alike.) Also, because of the mount and the rear of the suppressor that has to be machined for it, the QD model will be a bit heavier than the direct-thread version. In the case of the ones just used as a comparison, the SRD556 weighs 11.5 ounces and the SRD556QD weighs 14 ounces.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from The Suppressor Handbook by Patrick Sweeney.

3 Things You Didn’t Know You Needed For Your Reloading Bench

By
Elwood Shelton
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There are some relatively inexpensive extras you can pick up for your reloading bench that will make handloading all the more fruitful.

What are the reloading extras?

Reloading is an extremely satisfying endeavor, whether you’re rolling out precise target rounds or a little something to put meat on the table. And nowadays, given the profusion of pre-packaged reloading kits, it’s a simple passion to pursue.

As you go along, you’ll discover there are little pieces of equipment you can add to your bench that will make the process easier and your ammunition all the more accurate. With that in mind, here are three things you didn’t know you needed for your reloading bench. For the most part, you could get along without these, but overall they’ll make life a bunch easier at your reloading bench.

Lee-Powder-Measure-KitPowder Dippers
Typically, we think of ammunition reloading as a bulk endeavor and really almost all modern equipment is geared that way. But what if you want to whip up a handful of your favorite coyote or deer loads and don’t want to go to the trouble of filling up the hopper on your powder thrower?

Lee Precision has the answer for every small reloading job with its Powder Measure Kit. The 15 graduated dippers are perfect for scratching together 20 rounds or less and makes cleanup a nearly non-existent task.

While the kit comes with a slide card with powder dispensing data, it’s wise to double-check them with your scale, like with all volume measurements. But once you get used to using these little marvels and discover how quick they make little reloading jobs, you’ll fall in love with small-batch handloading.

Canned-airCanned Air
You ever notice that there are always a few grains of cleaning medium that hold fast to the bottom of some cases out of the tumbler? Or that no matter how hard you try, inevitably a few brass shavings from chamfering end up slipping down the neck? As persnickety as reloaders are, that just won’t stand, especially if it gets lodged in the flash hole.

Luckily, there is a simple solution that doesn’t involve bending a paper clip in a vain attempt to fish out debris — canned air. A quick blast in the flash hole and the inside of your case will be as clean as the outside. Honestly, the stuff is like vaporous gold when it comes to custodial jobs at the reloading bench — even beyond case prep.

Hornady has a Quick-Shot Canned Air, but don’t think you have to buy something made by a reloading company. The stuff at your local megastore will do.

My-Notebook_ledeNotebook
You assembled a killer load for your favorite rifle, it grouped like gangbusters at the range, and you can’t wait to put together a whole bunch more. But there were a slew of variables that came together to make that load a success — so many you’ll never remember them all.

That’s why, perhaps next to a quality reloading manual, a notebook is among your most important tools. Meticulous note taking will ensure that you have the right recipe to recreate those deadly-accurate successes that roll out of your press and it acts as a solid reminder of what just doesn’t work.

Don’t lose what came together to make a magic load because you were unwilling to spill ink. Besides, it costs less than anything else you put on your reloading bench.

Self-Defense: Should You Open Carry Or Go Concealed?

By
Massad Ayoob
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Concealed vs. Open Carry: Do we have a right to alarm innocent people?

Is open carry a wise self-defense choice?

  • We have the right, but is it wise to carry in a way that may alarm other citizens?
  • With open carry you can become a target of thieves, bullies and show-offs.
  • It opens us to false accusations of negligent gun use — the firearm can clearly be seen.
  • The author feels concealed carry offers surprise and thwarts potential “gun-grabs.”

The concealed handgun can’t be used to protect yourself and others if it is not readily accessible. If it is not discreetly concealed, well…it is no longer concealed.

Open carry is a hot-button issue in both the gun culture and the eye of the public. In some weather, this can add comfort to the carrier, since cover garments can be unduly hot. There is also an intimidation effect on potential criminals, and there is documented evidence of that.

Open carry holster on belt

However, that which intimidates bad guys will inevitably intimidate good guys, too. We live in a society where, for generations, media and politicians have relentlessly demonized guns and people who own them. Because people unidentifiable as law enforcement carrying guns in public are an aberration of the norm, it follows that some bystanders will perceive “aberrant person with power to kill me and others.”

Do we have a right to cause that alarm to others? We do not know if one of those passers-by, or fellow diners in the restaurant where we are open carrying, may in the past have been victimized by a criminal armed with a gun. We should be able to understand how we strangers with visible guns in their presence may alarm them.

6 Concealed Carry Insurance Options To Protect Your Six (2019)

It puts us in the position of a smoker in the presence of someone who has a severe allergy to tobacco smoke. Yes, we have a right to smoke, but not a right to trigger someone’s allergy. Yes, we have a right to bear arms, but do we have a right to alarm innocent people needlessly when we know, or should know, that might happen?

There are other concerns with open carry. One is that the exposed handgun becomes an inviting target for thieves, bullies, and show-offs. More than one good person innocently carrying a holstered gun has been disarmed by someone who had no right to touch them, sometimes with tragic results.

Concealed carry gun being drawn

Finally, any experienced cop can tell you that, sometimes, bad people make false complaints to the police about good people. If that person has spotted your small, gray semi-automatic pistol in your exposed holster, he can maliciously and falsely call police and tell the officers that you threatened him and pointed your gun at him, an act of felony aggravated assault which can bring many years of incarceration. Because he will be able to correctly describe your gun due to your openly carrying it, his false accusation gains credibility. That could all have been avoided by simply carrying concealed.

This is why most in the gun culture recommend discreet, concealed carry. The concealed carrier has the element of surprise against the bad guys, and is much less likely to suffer an attempted “gun-grab.”

And the concealed carrier will not offend, alienate and antagonize innocent people.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Straight Talk on Armed Defense.

How To: 4 Easy Glock Mods Anyone Can Do

By
Steve Sieberts
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Glock Upgrades -2
After fitting the sides of the hood, fit the front edge of the barrel locking surface until the barrel locks up into battery.

While a box stock Glock will run like a champ right out of the box, these four Glock upgrades will make yours even more accurate and shootable.

Four Must-Have Glock Mods:

The Glock pistol made its debut in 1982. Since that time, it has become one of the most popular handguns in the world. Some people love ‘em, and some people hate ’em, but either way, the pistol has some very good features that make it an effective handgun for self-defense, offensive tactical operations, and competition.

I purchased my Glock in the late 1980s, and I’ve had quite a bit of fun with it in USPSA, IDPA, and many informal practical matches. Since that time, I’ve added a few items to it to enhance the pistol and make it more personal and “shootable,” a word which means different things to different people.

In my case, one of the first items I added was the superb Bar-Sto stainless match-grade barrel. Being an old Bullseye competitor with the Army Marksmanship Unit, I view accuracy as the Holy Grail, and the match barrel from Bar-Sto is the best there is.

I opted for the oversized barrel, although the drop-in version will give excellent accuracy as well.

Being a gunsmith has a few benefits, not the least of which is that I know my way around a #2 Swiss pattern file and an India stone, but even someone with basic gunsmithing skills can easily install a match barrel in the Glock, since there are only three fitting points, and the amount of material that needs to be removed is not much.

As long as you go slow and check your work, fitting the barrel is very straightforward and the benefits are huge.

I also installed a set of Trijicon white outline night sights, and a Brooks Tactical Grip System.

The Trijicon sights are excellent and glow very bright, but typical night sights only last about ten years and these were much older than that, so the nighttime effectiveness was severely diminished.

Lastly, the Brooks Tactical grips give excellent results and actually work better when wet, but they had worn smooth and didn’t provide the same gripping surface as they did when initially installed.

So, this section will go through the refurbishment of a Glock, with the addition of a 3.5-lb. trigger connector.

Note that the addition of a light trigger and a match barrel may change which IDPA classifications you’ll be allowed to compete, so check the rules.

Also, if the gun is to be used for self-defense, be careful about installing aftermarket parts that affect the feeding, firing, extraction and ejection of the gun. Any time such parts are added, always test the gun with a large quantity of ammunition before entrusting it with your life.

Glock Upgrades 3
The bottom flat needs to be fit to the locking block in the frame. Go slow and check often for fit.

Add A Custom Glock Barrel

Not that we have that out of the way, let’s get started. Installing the Bar-Sto barrel, as I mentioned, is really straightforward.

There are two main fitting points — the front of the barrel hood, and the bottom flat of the barrel that sits on the Glock barrel block.

First, start by making sure the gun is unloaded (you knew that) and remove the slide from the frame. Remove the recoil spring and guide, and finally, take out the old barrel. The pistol is now field stripped, and you can begin fitting the barrel.

Measure the width and length of the hood of the Bar-Sto replacement, and measure the ejection port opening of the Glock. Subtract the length of the Glock port, from the length of the barrel hood: this is the difference you need to remove from the front edge of the Bar-Sto barrel.

Use a #4 Swiss pillar file to take down the edge. Do this by taking a stroke or two on the sides of the barrel hood, then try fitting the barrel into the slide. Press hard to make the barrel go into lockup, and use a soft nylon hammer to tap it into place.

Use a blue Magic Marker to check, making sure you are filing the surface square, taking off only the high spots. If you are a little unsure of yourself with a file, use a soft India stone to accomplish the same thing, it will just take longer.

With the stone, you don’t have a safe (non-cutting) edge as on the pillar file, so be careful not to take off material from two surfaces of the barrel at the same time. Once the sides of the barrel are fitted, fit the front of the barrel. Only the material from the front edge of the barrel hood should be removed.

Fit the barrel to the point to where you can push it up into battery and it stays locked, but will also drop out of battery with slight downward pressure of a fingertip on the hood. This is the ideal fit.

Once the barrel is fitted to the slide, remove material on the bottom flat of the barrel where the flat sits on the barrel block. Again, use Magic Marker to show the high spots where you need to remove material.

You are finished with the barrel/slide assembly when the assembly will install on the frame. If it won’t go onto the frame there is still material to be removed from the barrel flat.

Once these two fitting points are taken down so the barrel locks up fully into the slide, and the slide assembly will install onto the frame, you are done. Install the slide onto the frame and cycle the gun a few times.

Glock Upgrades -1
The Glock rear sight pusher works on factory and aftermarket sights equally well.

Glock Sight Ideas

When talking Glock upgrades, the next place to look would be the sights. Again, Trijicon are excellent when they are new, but after 20-some odd years, the Tritium can dim.

In my case, it was time to go with something brighter that would give me day/night capability, ergo, the newer fiber optic sights. These sights absolutely are like a huge neon beacon.

Since I still want the nighttime visibility afforded by Tritium sights, but also the bright glow of the fiber optic for daytime use, I went with Tru-Glo sights. This sight combines the best of both worlds — Tritium and fiber-optic inserts — providing 24-hour visibility.

Removing the old front sight is straightforward. Just remove the 3/16th-inch nut that holds the front sight in place. It takes a special nut driver to get in there, but once it’s out, you can install the new sight.

Degrease the threads of the new sight screw and, with a toothpick, place a tiny drop of blue Loctite onto the screw threads. Place the sight into the slide, and secure it with the screw. Do not overtighten it or you will strip the threads. Just run it up snug; with the thread locker in place that sight isn’t going anywhere. This is how I installed my original Trijicon sight and it’s been securely fastened, and has had over 40,000 rounds through it without any issues.

The rear sight is different. It is mounted in a dovetail, and as such, there are certain “best practices” to use when installing into a cross dovetail. The main point is that the part, any part, is always installed from right to left into the dovetail, as looking from the rear of the gun. If you install a part from left to right, then the next time you go left to right or vice versa the dovetail slot will be opened up and the part will never be able to be installed tightly.

Dovetails are always very slightly tapered from larger to smaller, from the right side to the left of the dovetail. So, the part gets installed from right to left, and removed from left to right, always!

Use the Glock sight tool, because Glock rear sights require downward as well as sideways pressure for removal.

The Tru-Glo rear sight was a perfect fit going into the Glock M17 dovetail, and all it took was a few good raps with a nylon drift punch and a brass hammer in order to set it in the center with a light-driven, almost press fit.

I ran the sight set screw up snug, but didn’t use any threadlocker since I’ll do that once the gun has been zeroed.

Glock Upgrades -4
The Ghost Systems Glock aftermarket trigger is one of many available for the polymer pistol. It gives a great 3.5-lb. trigger pull and is adjustable for overtravel.

Solving Glock Trigger Woes

Now that you have the barrel and sight installed, the next of your Glock upgrades is to install the 3.5-lb. trigger connector. This will provide you a nice, light trigger, but again, if you are using the gun for purely defensive work, I would leave the original factory trigger connector and springs installed.

The Glock is a great service pistol, but it has a service pistol-grade trigger, which is fine for most uses: For example, law enforcement, personal defense and military applications, and even competition and informal plinking if you don’t mind the heavy trigger.

But if you want to use the gun strictly to compete in the various types of practical pistol competitions, then the service grade trigger is not ideal, and that’s where the 3.5-lb. trigger connector comes in.

There are a number of lightweight Glock trigger connectors available, and I chose the Ghost trigger from Ghost Industries. It comes with a 3.5-lb. trigger connector, and a variety of springs to set its weight.

Glock Upgrades -7
The Glock is tested after all work is complete with the NRA trigger-weight system. This is the best way to test for precise trigger pull as the weights never go out of calibration. They are what the NRA uses to check for correct trigger pull at all NRA sanctioned matches. Get some!

I installed the 3.5 connector, but opted for the heavier 6-lb. trigger and firing pin springs that will yield a little heavier trigger pull in case I do want to carry the gun out and about. The result is a trigger that breaks a little over 4.5 lbs.

The trigger connector is a direct replacement, and removing the old connector allows for replacement of the new, Ghost Industries part.

The Ghost trigger connector comes with a small tab on the connector, which requires minor fitting. This tab acts as a trigger stop — a nice feature to have on a competition gun.

The kit also comes with a clear slide backplate in order to view the sear and firing pin engagement when fitting the trigger connector.

Glock Upgrades -5
The Brooks Tactical is a textured wrap-around grip that is easy to apply, works well even with wet or sweaty hands, and is inexpensive.

A Better Glock Grip Made Simple

The last step is to remove the old Brooks Tactical Grip, and install the new one from the same company. This is the exact same grip that I originally installed over twenty years ago, but the old one had worn with age. Installation is simple.

Once the old one is peeled off, degrease the grip area with brake cleaner, and wipe it down with the alcohol pad supplied with the new grip.

Since the grip covers the magazine button on both sides, the instructions demonstrate that the area around the mag button on both sides needs to have a tiny amount of oil applied so the grip doesn’t adhere to the mag release.

Again, I’ve had the old Brooks Tactical grip installed on my Glock forever and have never had an issue with the magazine release not functioning properly.

Wrap the new grip onto the pistol’s frame per the instructions. If it isn’t applied exactly correct, you can lift it and move it, but try not to do that too many times. (The grip overwraps itself, so if you wrap it together, it’s difficult to remove it.)

Once the grip is installed, the entire pistol gets reassembled, and function checks are done, along with functioning using dummy rounds. Checking the trigger pull with the NRA weights, mine came in at just over 4 ¾ lbs. That’s not too light or too heavy, and has minimal overtravel.

So there you have it — these Glock upgrades result in a pistol that is extremely accurate with the Bar-Sto barrel, has excellent sights with 24/7 visibility, a light, crisp trigger, and excellent textured grips that work in all environments — even better with wet or sweaty hands. Now I just need to take it out to the next IDPA match and run it through its paces.

This article is an excerpt from Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms.

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