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Federal Releases Champion Training 30 Super Carry Ammo

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Need some range ammo for your 30 Super Carry pistol? Federal Ammunition has just added a load to its Champion Training line.

Federal Ammunition released its newest handgun cartridge, 30 Super Carry, in 2022. If you were one of its early adopters, you should be pleased to hear that Federal has just added 30 Super Carry to its Champion Training line. Whenever a new cartridge is released to the public it always takes some time before a wide variety of different ammo types become available for it, so Federal’s introduction of this relatively affordable and easy-to-shoot load should make finding ammo to train with that much easier.

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The Federal Champion Training 30 Super Carry load features a 90-grain FMJ bullet with an advertised muzzle velocity of 1,300 fps. Federal says that it produces less recoil than its 100-grain American Eagle load of 30 SC and should provide a more comfortable shooting experience and facilitate longer training sessions.

Chris Laack, the Federal Handgun Ammunition Product Manager, said this about the new load:

Our American Eagle 30 Super Carry 100-grain training load is already a light recoiling, easy-to-shoot load, even though it’s matched to our Personal Defense HST 100-grain load to deliver the same feel and point of impact … However, this new lighter-weight Champion Training 30 Super Carry 90-grain load feels even easier, softer, less recoiling, and more fun to shoot.

Champion Training 30 Super Carry ammo is available now, comes in boxes of 50 and has an MSRP of $33.99 per box.

For more information, visit federalpremium.com.


More On Handgun Ammo:

Combat Handgunnery: Avoiding Mistakes

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We discuss some common mistakes made by armed citizens and the best ways to avoid making them yourself.

Things People Don’t Think About

One reason shooting is such a great hobby is that it’s a tremendously good stress-reliever. A lot of people don’t understand how this works. They think that we go to the range, imagine our boss’ face on the picture downrange, and act out some homicidal rage by shooting it again and again. That’s not how it works at all.

Combat-Hangunnery-7ED
This excerpt is from Massad Ayoob’s Gun Digest Book of Combat Handgunnery, 7th Edition, now available at GunDigestStore.com.

The reason shooting is such a good stress reliever is that, like sky-diving or rock climbing or SCUBA diving, you have to concentrate on what you’re doing to the point where all other BS is excluded from your mind. You must concentrate or you can get killed! Our focus on safe shooting banishes our thoughts of job stress, family problems or whether our team won the Super Bowl. If at any time we find ourselves on the line preoccupied with other, more compelling thoughts, it’s time to pack up and stop shooting for awhile, perhaps for the rest of the day. Not because we’re going to have a psychotic break, but because we can’t concentrate sufficiently on something that demands our complete attention. We do it this way for the same reason that we tell our teenage children not to drive when they’re upset.

In defensive shooting, as in martial arts, the practitioner seeks to become so skillful that the techniques may be employed automatically without thinking about them when the proper stimulus comes. This is all to the good. However, we must walk a fine line when it comes to firearms safety. Automatic pilot is a fine thing, but it cannot be trusted exclusively. We must always strive for a “conscious competence” level when we’re performing firearms safety tasks. We must think about what we are doing. If we have achieved the ideal Zen state of unconscious competence in firearms handling and do everything correctly without thinking about it, that’s wonderful, but we need to double check once more at the conscious competence level to confirm the good job that we hope our unconscious competence carried out.

We need to be ruthlessly and honestly critical of ourselves. If we have what are currently called “anger management problems,” we won’t be ready to have immediate access to loaded firearms until those things are under control. If we sleepwalk, it may not be a good idea having guns available in the bedroom.

A good friend of mine is a world-class competitive shooter with a strong background in law enforcement. He is one of the most well-adjusted human beings and family men I know. He also happens to be a very deep sleeper, and tends to be a bit groggy and disoriented for several seconds when suddenly awakened. Recognizing that, he has made a point of keeping his home defense pistol, a Browning 9mm semiautomatic, in a secured drawer across the bedroom. It is stored with the chamber empty. He knows that by the time he has gotten up, crossed the room, retrieved the gun, and chambered a round, he will be awake and clear-headed. This is the kind of self-analysis we all need to go through.

Layered Defense

The police officer on the street has layers of physical defenses. He is taught Verbal Judo™, a crisis intervention skill. He is taught “soft” come-along holds and “hard” strikes with fist and forearm, with knee and foot. He carries pepper spray, and can resort, next, to his baton. He will have a handgun on the duty belt, and hopefully a shotgun and/or rifle in the patrol car if things get worse yet.

The citizen should have layered defenses in the home. Good locks in solid doors, secure windows, alarms, perhaps an intercom or even a closed-circuit TV at the door, perhaps professionally trained protection dogs and, of course, firearms.

Gun safety also demands a layered series of defenses. We secure the guns from unauthorized hands. We are constantly aware of where any lethal weapon is and what its condition is. We check by sight and feel. Redundancy is the key. We want to create net after net after carefully deployed net to keep accidents from happening.

Let’s close with a very insightful statement by an NRA Director and firearms instructor named Mike Baker. Says Mike, “Seemingly obsessive concern with firearms safety is the mark of the firearms professional.”

Concealed Carry Faux Pas

Sex and violence: You can’t enjoy the one if you don’t survive the other.

Richard C. Davis, Inventor of soft body armor, armed citizen and gunfight survivor

I don’t mind where people make love, so long as they don’t do it in the street and frighten the horses.

Beatrice Tanner Campbell, Arbiter of etiquette in days past

Richard Davis and Beatrice Tanner Campbell aren’t usually discussed in the same paragraph, but it’s appropriate here. We lawfully carry guns because we want to stay alive to enjoy the good things in life. Because we are licensed to wear them in public, we do indeed “do it in the street,” and therefore we must take all the more care not to “frighten the horses.”

In most jurisdictions, concealment is not only authorized by the license, but also tacitly required. Rookie cops are known for the need to “flash,” to just show someone that for the first time in their life, “they’ve got the power.” Armed citizens are well advised to avoid that temptation. The mark of the professional is that few people know that they go about armed. Discretion is critical.

A spiritual descendant of Mrs. Campbell is Judith Martin, who writes the popular “Miss Manners” etiquette column for the newspapers. Some years ago she had a column that read something like this:

“Dear Miss Manners:
“My job requires me to carry a gun. Recently at a party, I sat down awkwardly on a couch and my gun fell to the floor in plain sight. Everyone stared and I was quite shaken. It was most embarrassing. What does one do in such a situation?”
(signed) “Armed and Confused”

The columnist’s reply was similar to this:

“Dear Armed and Confused:
“You should have immediately picked up your firearm and secured it. You should have then self-effacingly stated, ‘I’m terribly sorry. My job requires me to carry a gun. Don’t worry, no one is in danger.’ Then you should have made a graceful exit. And then you should have gone out immediately and purchased a holster that would not let your gun fall out.
—Miss Manners”

Clearly, Judith Martin is one of us!

You want to avoid “flashing” the gun or allowing it to “print,” that is, to become visible in outline under the concealing garments. If you carry in a pocket, use a pocket holster designed to break up the gun’s distinctive outline. Another option is to fold up a road map or pamphlet lengthwise, and put it in the pocket between the outer fabric and the gun. If you have a shallow pocket, this will also prevent someone standing in a waiting line behind you from glancing down and seeing the backstrap of the pistol peeking out of the opening of the pocket.

If you wear a shoulder holster, make sure the concealing garment is made of substantial fabric that the lines of the harness do not print. When you bend forward, use one hand or forearm to hold the garment closed on the holster side. Otherwise, a shoulder holster that is not secured to the belt may swing forward and become visible to someone on the side opposite the gun.

If you bend down to pick something up, do it like a back patient. Keep the spine and torso vertical, and bend at the knees. Bending at the waist causes a gun in a hip holster to print starkly.

Avoid middle-of-the-back holsters. Anywhere else on your waistband, if the gun catches the hem of the garment and pulls it up revealingly, you’ll quickly either feel it or notice it in peripheral vision. Neither will be true if the gun is in the small of your back. It may be completely exposed, and you’ll be the only person within 300 yards who doesn’t know that your gun is hanging out.

It will be apparent in this book that the author is a believer in safety straps. That’s partly so the gun won’t be lost in a fall or foot pursuit or other strenuous activity. It’s partly because if you’re grappling with someone and his hands go around your waist, feel the gun, and begin tugging, you want to buy some “reactionary gap” time. It is also partly to avoid something as simple as sitting in a lattice-back chair and having your gun suddenly leave the holster.

I was once vacationing in Florida, legal to carry a gun, with a 1911 .45 auto, in an open-top, inside-the-waistband holster, under a loose sport shirt. I sat down in a beach chair next to a pool, adjusted the back of the chair up and settled myself. I heard a “clunk.” I thought, “Clunk? Vas ist das clunk?” I glanced down and saw a remarkably familiar combat custom .45 auto lying at poolside. So did a couple of other rather wide-eyed people. I scooped up the pistol and tucked it away, remarking to one concerned onlooker, “Sorry, I’m a cop, they make me carry this damn thing.” Then, like the poor soul who wrote to Miss Manners, I beat a hasty retreat.

What had happened was that as I shifted my weight upward to settle in the chair, the butt of the pistol had become caught in the open latticework at the back of the chair. When I lowered myself, the movement in essence pulled the holster down and out from around the gun, which then toppled to the pavement.

This is also a good reason to carry a pistol that is “drop safe.” It isn’t enough to smugly say, “I don’t intend to drop my gun.” I didn’t intend to, either. But if things we didn’t intend to do never happened, we wouldn’t have to carry guns in the first place. Out West, a lady with a cute little derringer in her purse dropped the bag accidentally. The pistol inside received the impact as the purse hit the floor and discharged, sending a bullet up out of the handbag and into the chest of a man standing nearby.

When you are reaching upward, particularly with a short jacket on, take care that the garment does not lift so much that it exposes the gun or even part of the holster. If the pistol is on your right hip, you might want to discreetly hold the hem of the jacket in place with your right hand as you reach with your left. If that will flash my spare magazine pouch, which some might find just as unsettling, this writer is of such an age that he can commandeer some passing youngster and say, “Excuse me, son, could you reach an item on that top shelf for an old man?”

If you have an ankle holster on, before you leave the house, sit down and see how much the pant’s cuff rides up when you’re seated. If the bottom of the holster becomes exposed, nature is telling you to pull your sock up on the outside of the holster, taking care that it does not come up over the edge of the holster mouth where it could snag a draw. Now, if the cuff lifts while you’re sitting in a restaurant, it just looks like you have a baggy sock. You may get a summons from the Fashion Police, but the Gun Police will leave you alone.

When in restaurants, try to sit with your gun/holster side toward the wall. This will minimize chances of the gun being spotted as you get up.

If you are wearing a jacket and find yourself seated someplace unbearably hot, you can take off the jacket without flashing the gun. Simply sit down with the garment on, then shrug out of the sleeves and let the jacket sort of fluff up around your waist. Done with care, this will hide the gun. Now you’ll be comfortable, and you won’t become conspicuous by being the only person in the place wearing a jacket.

If you carry your firearm off-body in a purse or fake Daytimer™ or whatever, for heaven’s sake, don’t get in the habit of setting it where you might get up and leave it unattended. There are other countries where people have gone to jail for that, convicted of criminal negligence, if the abandoned weapon is stolen or found by a child. If the container is small enough, put it in your lap. If it’s too big for your lap, put it on the seat against your hip. If you must, put it on the floor against your leg. Have it on the exiting side or between your feet. Yes, the exiting side is more accessible to the purse-snatcher, but ask yourself one question. How many times in your life has a thug snatched your purse or briefcase, compared to how many times in your life have you had to go back into a house or restaurant for a carry bag you inadvertently left behind? Between the feet is better, but on the exit side is acceptable too, because it’s always where you can feel it and you can’t slide out or get up without noticing it and reminding yourself to keep it with you.

Securing Guns In Vehicles

Do the neighbors and passersby need to see you carrying guns out to your car for a day at the range? Dedicated gun bags look more like high-quality gym bags or travel bags, and don’t attract attention. The new-generation fully enclosed golf club cases designed for air travel are ideal for transporting rifles and shotguns. If the case of ammo you put in the trunk looks like a plain cardboard box, no one is going to look twice.

We have a generation of “gun-free workplaces” where an armed citizen can be arrested for trespass after warning if they enter the office armed. Federal buildings such as post offices are normally considered to be off limits for gun carrying, even if you have a license to do so in public, and in many jurisdictions the same is true for courthouses, schools, and even places that sell alcohol. This means that if you’re an armed citizen on a day off doing errands that include mailing a package, picking up a copy of a deed at the courthouse, and purchasing wine for a dinner party, you’ll have to take your gun on and off at least three times during the trip.

You don’t want to do it conspicuously. A frightened citizen who sees someone “doing something with a gun in a parked car” violates Mrs. Campbell’s edict, “Don’t frighten the horses.” A thug who sees you put a pistol in the console knows that he can smash out a window with a rock and steal a pistol as soon as you’re out of sight.

If you regularly carry a gun, it makes sense to get a small lock-box that easily opens by feel with combination push buttons, and bolt it to the floor or the transmission hump of your car, within reach of the driver’s seat. This allows you to secure the gun as you approach your parking space, and carefully slip it back out and put it back on as you drive away. Why do this while you’re in motion? Because most people won’t be able to see you. (Take care about being observed by people in high-seated trucks, however.) You’re much more likely to be noticed by a pedestrian who is walking by your parked car, since his natural visual angle is downward into your vehicle.

You might also want to slip the gun into a sturdy cloth shopper’s bag (a fanny pack might become a target for a thief because it looks like it might contain a wallet) and lock it in your trunk when you go into the post office, then retrieve it into the passenger compartment when you return to your car.

While we’re talking about guns and cars, it’s not sound tactics to have gun-related decals or bumper stickers on your vehicle. Did you ever make a political decision and change your vote because you saw something on someone’s bumper sticker? Probably not, and no one will vote for your gun rights because they saw your bumper sticker, either. However, those things put some cops on hyper-alert when they pull you over for having a taillight out. Your NRA bumper sticker may give some road-raging bozo the idea to call the police and say you threatened him with a gun. When the cops pull you over and find out you do indeed have a gun, you “fit the profile.”

You also have to consider that the criminal element isn’t entirely stupid. When they see a gun-related sign on your car, it tells them that you feel strongly about guns. That tells them you probably own several guns. They love to steal guns because firearms and prescription drugs are the only things they can steal from you that they can fence on the black market for more than their intrinsic value, instead of maybe a nickel on the dollar. Now they know that if they follow this car to its home, they can watch the house until people are gone, and then break in and steal guns. This is why the bumper sticker thing is just not wise. Show where your heart is on your rights to own firearms by working and contributing to gun owners’ rights groups, instead. It’ll do everyone, and the cause, and particularly you, a lot more good.

The Routine Traffic Stop

It can happen to any of us. We’re driving along and suddenly the red, or blue, or red and blue lights start flashing in the rearview mirror. We’re being pulled over! And we’re carrying a concealed gun! What do we do?

Well, since we are law-abiding citizens and carrying legally, we pull over. Smoothly, steadily, turning on the signal as soon as we see those lights. At roadside, we park and turn off the ignition and engage the emergency flashers. At night, turn on the interior lights. Stay behind the wheel. If you get out and approach the officer unbidden, you not only indicate to him that there might be something inside the car that you don’t want him to see, but your actions mimic the single most common pattern of ambush murder of police during traffic stops. Just stay in the car. Leave your hands relaxed in a high position on the steering wheel. Do not reach for license and registration in the glove box or console or under the seat, either now or before coming to a stop. From a vehicle behind you, these movements mimic going for a weapon.

Remember Mrs. Campbell’s advice. No cop gets through a police academy without horror stories of brother and sister officers murdered in traffic stops. The officer is carrying a gun and this is the last of Mrs. Campbell’s horses that you want to frighten.

The officer will ask for license and registration. Make sure that when you open the glove box for the latter, there isn’t a gun sitting there. If you have indeed left la pistola in the glove box, tell the officer, “I’m licensed to carry, and I have one in the glove box with my registration. How should we handle this?” It would be much better for the gun not to be in that location at all.

In some jurisdictions, when a permit is issued, there is a requirement that you identify yourself as armed any time you make contact with a police officer and are carrying. The easiest thing to do is carry the concealed handgun license next to the driver’s license, and hand both to the officer together. Don’t blurt something like, “I’ve got a gun!” It sounds like a threatening statement. If you try to explain about the pistol and passing traffic obscures some of your words and the only thing the officer hears is “gun,” your traffic stop can go downhill. Just hand over the CCW permit with the DL.

You’ll want to do the same in jurisdictions where such identification may not be required by law, but where the Department of Motor Vehicles cross-references with issuing authorities on carry permits. In those jurisdictions—Washington state, for example, and many, if not most, parts of California at this writing—the officer will have been told by dispatch or will have seen on his mobile data terminal that you’re someone who carries a gun. If you don’t bring it up first, such action can seem to the officer as if you’re hiding something from him. Again, hand over the CCW with the DL.

In jurisdictions where neither is the case, it’s up to you. If I pulled you over for a traffic stop in my community and you are a law-abiding citizen who has been investigated, vetted and licensed to carry a gun, it was none of my business. If I was worried about it, I would have asked you if you had one, and I would have expected at that time the honest answer the law demands.

If at any point the officer asks you to please step out of the vehicle, things have changed. Either someone with a description similar to yours did a bad thing (which means you’re going to be field interviewed and patted down until it’s clear that “you ain’t him”), or your operation was careless enough to give the officer probable cause to believe you’re driving under the influence. This means there will be a roadside field sobriety test. In the typical Rohmberg test, arms will be going straight out to your sides, coats will be coming open and this would be a very bad time to “flash.”

So, if the officer asks you to step out, I would suggest you reply with exactly these words, if you haven’t already handed over the CCW: “Certainly, Officer. However, I’m licensed to carry. I do have it on. Tell me what you want me to do.” The cop will take it from there.

Now you’re seeing why those of us who’ve been carrying for a long time understand a principle the courts call the “higher standard of care.” It holds that we, of all people, should be smart enough not to make stupid mistakes with guns. This is why, among many other things, those of us who carry guns tend to rely more on the cruise control than the radar detector, and actually make an effort to drive at the speed limit, so we won’t get pulled over in the first place.

Gun-possession laws and carry reciprocity change constantly. The best source I’ve found for staying current on the 50-piece patchwork quilt of such laws is at handgunlaw.us.

Securing The Combat Handgun

Shooter A is a professional instructor in combat arms. He’s on the road about half the time, usually alone. He keeps a pair of handcuffs in his suitcase and travels with a primary handgun and a backup weapon. When he goes to bed at night in a hotel room, one loaded pistol is in one of the shoes he plans to wear the next day, at bedside. The other is in the other shoe on the opposite side of the bed. He untucks the sheets and blankets at the bottom of the bed before turning in.

Rationale? He can reach the gun immediately if there’s an intrusion. If he has to roll to the other side of the bed, he can reach a gun there too. If, like some of the victims he has met over the years, he wakes up with the attacker on top of him in bed, there will be no tucked-in bedclothes to bind him like a straitjacket and he can roll the attacker off. If he has to leave the guns behind for any reason, he can lock them in the hard-shell case he keeps inside his regular suitcase, then use the handcuffs to secure the case to pipes under the bathroom sink.

The latter tactic is because research has taught him that many hotel burglars have suborned hotel staff and use their keys to enter rooms while guests are out. It’s unlikely that these punks will have handcuff keys with them. If they break the pipes to get at the case, it will call immediate attention to their activities. Hotel management will alert to what’s going on, change locks and keys and kill the golden goose.

Shooter B is a police officer with young children not yet at the age of responsibility. He is subject to call-out from off-duty status at any time. He has arrested and sent to jail some people who aren’t too happy about it, and he feels that nothing less than an instantly accessible loaded handgun will keep him and his young family safe enough for his peace of mind.

The solution is a lock-box secured in his closet. When he comes home from work he is carrying his duty sidearm, a .45 auto, as an off-duty weapon. He simply leaves it on his person until he goes to bed. When that time comes, he goes to the lock box. The .45 goes in, and out of the box comes another gun that has reposed safely there all day. It is a Smith & Wesson .357 Combat Magnum revolver, loaded with 125-grain hollow-points and customized with a device called MagnaTrigger, which is not externally visible. When he turns in, he slips this gun under the bed where it’s out of sight but he can reach it immediately. From his night-table drawer come two simple-looking stainless steel rings. He puts one on the middle finger of each hand, and goes to sleep.

The rings have magnets attached to the palm side. There’s one for each hand because he learned in police training that the dominant hand could become disabled in a fight and he might have to resort to his support hand. He is now the only one who can fire the MagnaTrigger gun, whose retrofitted mechanism blocks the internal rebound slide. At the bottom of the block is a piece of powerful cobalt samarium magnet. Only when a hand wearing a magnetic ring closes over the gun in a firing grasp will reverse polarity move the block out of the way and make the gun instantly “live.” This device has been available and working well since 1975, and is currently available from Tarnhelm Supply, 431 High St., Boscawen, NH 03303. It can be applied only to a Smith & Wesson double-action revolver, K-frame or larger, at this time.

Two very different people, and two very different approaches. Neither is likely to have a gun stolen. Neither is likely to have an unauthorized person handling their guns without their knowledge. Yet each is ready to instantaneously access a defensive handgun if there is a sudden, swift invasion of their domicile.

The MagnaTrigger is also useful for any time you want to have a gun in off-body carry instead of attached to the wearer. If the container is snatched, only the legitimate owner wearing the rings can make the gun go bang.

Why have you not heard about the MagnaTrigger from the mass media, in all their articles about gun control advocates calling for “smart guns?” Well, simply because those gun control advocates don’t really want smart guns. They want no guns at all. Their strategy is to pass legislation requiring something that does not yet exist on the market: electronically controlled pistols. This will give them an avenue to ban “stupid guns” as dangerous, and then leave gun owners with nothing because the “smart guns” promised to replace them don’t come through. If the public found out there actually was a smart gun that worked, the anti-gunners fear that people who don’t buy guns now would buy these, and that would thwart their plans. The smart gun that works now is indeed the MagnaTrigger, hampered only by the fact that the technology has not yet been successfully translated to semiautomatic pistols.

The Handcuff Trick

Since long before this old guy pinned on a badge, cops have been securing their guns at home with their handcuffs. With the conventional double-action revolver, the bracelet goes between the rear of the trigger and the back of the trigger guard, and over the hammer. This at once blocks the rearward travel of the trigger and the rearward travel of the hammer, positively preventing firing. On a “hammerless” style revolver, the trigger is still blocked.

On a single-action such as the 1911 or the Hi-Power, the handcuff’s bracelet is applied differently. On the 1911, which has a sliding trigger, it goes under the outside of the trigger guard at the juncture of the grip-frame, and over the back of the slide in a way that holds the hammer down if the chamber is empty, or back if the gun is cocked and locked and loaded. With the Browning, which has a freestanding trigger, it can be done just as on a revolver or between the hammer and the slide while also blocking the trigger’s travel toward the rear of the guard. A double-action auto would be secured the same way, holding the hammer in the down position.

I don’t see any way to effectively lock up most Glock-like pistols with handcuffs. What the Glock does lend itself to better than most other guns, is a home safety concept I first heard suggested by Peter Tarley, the world-class instructor who used to work for Glock. Simply unload the pistol, and field strip it. The Glock’s barrel/slide assembly comes off en bloc as with many other guns, but unlike most others, there is no takedown lever that has to be manipulated a certain way during reassembly. When danger threatens, grab the barrel/slide assembly with your non-dominant hand, your frame assembly with your dominant hand, and put the two back together. Then holding the gun in the dominant hand, seize the loaded magazine, insert it, rack the slide, and you’re holding a loaded Glock pistol. It’s surprising how quickly this can be done. The old HK P9S, no longer produced, was one of the few other guns with which this trick works as well.

Remember, it’s our gun. Power and responsibility must always be commensurate. When we need the power, we must accept—and live up to—the responsibility. In the end, most of the time, you never need the power, but you feel good about having fulfilled the responsibility.

Editor’s Note: This excerpt is from Massad Ayoob’s Gun Digest Book of Combat Handgunnery, 7th Edition.


More Knowledge For The Armed Citizen:

Top Rifle Slings That Carry Their Weight

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A rifle sling is just about the most important accessory you can have, so here we look at some of the best available options for carbines and hunting rifles.

If you could only get one accessory for a long gun, a sling would arguably have to be it. That said, there are a TON of different rifle slings on the market, and it can be intimidating trying to choose which one will suit your needs best.

So, let’s talk about what kinds of rifle slings are best for different tasks and use cases, the features that matter most, how to use them and finally what the best slings on the market are.  

Does Your Rifle Need A Sling?

A sling to a rifle is like a holster for a handgun. When you need your hands free to do something besides shooting, a sling allows you to keep it on your person.

Sling-second

But beyond the obvious use as a means to carry a rifle, slings are also useful as shooting aids. The additional point of contact under tension can stabilize the gun to a greater degree than with the arms alone and can help mitigate recoil, especially with semi-autos.  

That makes a rifle sling one of the best accessories you can have—vital to hunters, sport shooters and military and law enforcement professionals. Frankly, just about any rifle you own for reasons besides casual plinking deserves to have a sling on it.

What Types Of Rifle Slings Are There? What Kind Do I Need?  

At the most basic level, there are three types of rifle slings:

  • Single-Point
  • Two-Point
  • Three-Point

Like their names suggest, single-point and two-point slings attach to a rifle at one and two places, respectively.

Single-Point Sling

blackhawk-single-point-sling
A Blackhawk single-point sling.

Single-point slings theoretically still have a place, and you may still see the occasional operator armed with an SMG using one, but for the most part they really just suck. Sure, plenty get sold as tactical gimmicks, but those who buy one have usually never tried running with it. The primary job of a sling is to retain the rifle on your person and free up your hands to focus on moving or completing other tasks. Weapons attached to single-point slings simply flop around too much for this to be possible which makes them useless outside of some very specific niches. Don’t believe me? Try using one at a 2- or 3-Gun match and see how long it takes before the rifle slams into your nethers.

Two-Point Sling

springfield m1903 feature
A Springfield M1903 with a reproduction traditional two-point sling.

Two-point rifle slings are the standard for a reason, and that’s because they’re the most practical, useful and versatile of the three designs for 99 percent of all applications. Whether you’re looking to put a simple strap on a hunting rifle or a tactical quick-adjust sling on a modern carbine, a two-point sling is what you need.

Three-Point Sling

specter-gear-three-point-sling
A Specter Gear three-point sling.

Three-point slings also attach to a rifle at two points, but they meet at a third point and create an additional loop meant to be worn around the shooter. Three-point slings are similar in their nuance to single-points, except arguably even less practical due to the additional complexity. If getting tied up is your thing, that’s fine, but keep it in the bedroom and off the range.

Sling Styles

Speaking of different styles of slings, that’s another factor to consider. Two-point slings could arguably be grouped into three general styles today. There are modern carbine slings, traditional- or hunting-style slings and match slings. Match slings are only for specific rifle events, so we’ll just set those aside and focus on the two that will be the most useful to most shooters.  

The main difference between modern carbine slings and traditional/hunting slings is their ability to have their length adjusted on the fly. This is why the former are often called quick-adjust slings. Being able to add or remove slack on the fly can be an incredibly handy feature in certain environments, but it could also be basically useless in others. It depends more on how you plan on using the rifle than the specific type of gun in question.

For example, a traditional sling could be perfectly at home on a modern carbine if one only plans on using it for stability at the range. If you don’t need to carry it or shoot in a dynamic environment, quick adjustability is less important. On the other hand, a modern quick-adjust sling could be an excellent addition to a hunting rifle in certain situations. The ability to comfortably carry the rifle over your shoulder and quickly transition to a stabilized shooting position can be the difference between hitting or missing your mark.

Ultimately it will be up to you to decide whether the features of a quick-adjust sling justify the higher cost or if your rifle will be better suited by something more basic and traditional.

Traditional- and hunting-style slings have fewer features, but one worth discussing is the construction material. The two most common are nylon webbing and leather. Quality nylon is several times stronger than leather and cheaper to boot, so there’s no upside to leather besides the aesthetics. However, some leather slings are still fantastic (we put two on our list) so don’t write them off entirely.

There’s also a sub-genre among traditional hunting slings known as loop slings. These feature an open loop (such as a Rhodesian sling) or closed loop in the sling itself for use as a shooting aid. I’ve found loop slings to work incredibly well, though they slow down presentation.  

Sling Attachment

One final aspect of rifle slings worth touching on is their attachment methods. There are old-school sling swivels where the sling is simply fed through and secured, but as you can imagine these have generally fallen out of style. That said, they’re still totally viable and may still be the easiest method of sling attachment for certain rifles, especially bolt-actions.

viking-tactics-QD-swivels-f
A QD sling swivel and corresponding mount from Viking Tactics.

The more popular method these days is some form of quick-detach swivel, two common styles being QD swivels and HK hooks. QD swivels use ball detents to lock into QD cup sockets on the rifle, usually on the buttstock and forend, with a push-button that retracts the detents. Push and insert, release to lock, push to release. Of course, your gun’s furniture will need the corresponding cup socket to use this style. HK hooks are more like carabiner clips that hook onto an attachment point on the rifle. Both styles work and which you choose to go with ultimately comes down to personal preference.

Why Are These The Best Rifle Slings?  

There’s no “best,” but there’s a best for you.   

Each of the slings we chose is from a trusted manufacturer, built using quality materials and can be counted on to perform well in the role they were designed for.

We looked at features, materials, price points, pedigree (if the brand in question has an established reputation) and performance, then compared them to competitive products. At the end of the day, these are the 10 we think will serve most shooters best. There are others out there that certainly work well too, so let us know in the comments if you have a favorite that you think deserves a mention as well.

The 10 Best Rifle Slings 

Tactical/Quick-Adjust Slings:

Magpul MS1

magpul-ms1-sling

Specs

Width: 1.25 Inches
Max Length: 60 Inches
Strap Material: Nylon webbing
Adjustment: MS1 slider
MSRP: $39.95
Website: magpul.com

Pros

  • Affordable
  • MS1 slider eliminates snag hazards when adjusting (no tails hanging out)

Cons

  • Thin, unpadded strap won’t be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
  • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

The Magpul MS1 is an adjustable two-point sling. While maybe not the “best” of the type, they’re affordable and available in most gun stores nationwide. If all you need is a basic but well-made adjustable two-point, you can’t go wrong with the Magpul. 

It features a simple 1.25-inch strap, but Magpul offers another wider model with padding for extra comfort (and a $30 higher MSRP as well). The MS1 has a quick-adjust slider and comes in black, stealth gray, coyote tan or ranger green. 

Viking Tactics VTAC Sling

viking-tactics-vtac-sling

Specs

Width: Not listed
Max Length: 60+ Inches
Strap Material: Nylon webbing
Adjustment: Cam w/ pull cord
MSRP: $44.95
Website: vikingtactics.com

Pros

  • Adjustment cord is easy to grab and use
  • Reputation speaks for itself

Cons

  • Thin, unpadded strap won’t be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
  • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

The VTAC is made with mil-spec nylon web and stitching for durability, with a cam-operated quick adjust operated by a simple pull cord. It has polymer hardware, including the cam adjuster and triglides.  

Given its popularity and reputation, it’s a standard by which others are judged.  

Sly Tactical Two Point Sling

sly-tactical-sling

Specs

Width: 1 Inch
Length: Made to order
Strap Material: Nylon webbing
Adjustment: Triglides/Friction buckle W/ T-handle pull strap 
MSRP: $67.95
Website: slytactical.com

Pros

  • Made to order per your body and intended weapon, should be a perfect fit
  • Large T-handle pull strap

Cons

  • Due to treatment, the nylon requires a break-in period to become pliable
  • Attachment hardware not included by default, can be ordered with for an additional fee

Sly Tactical’s adjustable slings, including conventional two-points and convertibles, use a nylon T-handle for fast adjustment and convenient location when in use.   

Sly Tactical uses mil-spec components from the 1-inch nylon web to the triglide buckles to the stitching. Several choices of color/pattern are available, and the sling can be ordered unpadded or with padding for a few dollars more.  

Blue Force Gear Vickers 221 Sling

vickers-221-sling

Specs

Width: 1.25 Inches (unpadded) ; 2 Inches (padded)
Max Length: 64 Inches (unpadded) ; 67 Inches (padded)
Strap Material: Cordura webbing
Adjustment: Triglides/Friction lock w/ pull strap 
MSRP: $103.95 (base)
Website: blueforcegear.com

Pros

  • Can be easily converted to single-point sling
  • Includes attachment hardware
  • Large, easy to use adjustment pull strap

Cons

  • Standard QD swivels cost about $20 extra if you don’t want the company’s RED swivel

The 221 is a convertible two-point, with your choice of a Blue Force RED Swivels (QD compatible) or standard QD swivels for an extra charge. Optional padding is available for about $30 as well. The adjustment buckle has a pull strap that’s easily grabbed for adjusting sling tension. Its extra feature is that it can be easily converted into a single-point sling, something that could be useful for certain tasks or environments.

The Vickers sling series has been a mainstay among professionals for some time, so this is the duty-grade option among convertibles. 

Gat Monkey Slings

gat-monkey-sling

Specs

Width: 1 Inch
Length: Not listed
Strap Material: Polyester webbing
Adjustment: Triglides/Cam w/ paracord pull tab 
MSRP: $39.99
Website: gatmonkey.com

Pros

  • Polyester is more flexible than nylon
  • Good paracord pull tab
  • Widest variety of cool, unique patterns

Cons

  • Attachment hardware not included by default, can be ordered with for an additional fee

Gat Monkey makes simple but effective two-point adjustable rifle slings that don’t break the bank and add some flair, as they’re offered in over a dozen prints including M81 Woodland and a bunch of other interesting patterns.

It features a 1-inch nylon web with a simple cam-operated steel slider to adjust the length on the fly and a paracord pull cord. Pull forward to open and adjust, pull back to close. They’re made in the USA with a lifetime warranty and have an MSRP of $39.99. You can add QD swivels for $20 more.  

Traditional/Hunting Slings: 

Magpul RLS

magpul-rls-sling

Specs

Width: 1.25 Inches
Max Length: 54 Inches
Strap Material: Nylon webbing
Adjustment: Triglide
MSRP: $24.99
Website: magpul.com

Pros

  • Very affordable
  • Versatile for a simple design

Cons

  • Thin, unpadded strap won’t be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
  • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

The Magpul RLS, or Rifleman’s Loop Sling, is one of the best general-purpose slings you can buy, and it’s a bargain to boot. A simple nylon web strap with triglide polymer buckles for adjustment, in black or OD green.  

The RLS can also be used as a loop sling, with a triglide and keeper for the loop, whether as a Rhodesian (open loop) or a cuff sling (closed loop, sized to the shooter’s arm) with the keeper. For a simple, affordable sling, it does everything it needs to. 

Andy’s Leather Rhodesian Sling

andys-leather-rhodesian-sling

Specs

Width: 1-1.25 Inches
Length: Made to order
Strap Material: Leather
Adjustment: Single-prong buckle
MSRP: Starts at $90
Website: andysleather.com

Pros

  • Arguably the best sling on the list for shooting support
  • Looks great

Cons

  • Leather is more susceptible to the elements

Form and function don’t have to be mutually exclusive 

The original Rhodesian sling is available in 1-inch and 1.25-inch bridle leather with a prong buckle for adjustments. You have a choice of walnut, chestnut or black leather, with sling swivels and keepers available as optional add-ons.  

Andy’s Leather Rhodesian Slings have been used worldwide for hunting, training and more. If you wanted a classy leather sling that can handle hard use, they’re as good as it gets.  

Wilderness Tactical Basic Carry Sling

wilderness-basic-sling

Specs

Width: 1.25 Inches
Length: Not listed
Strap Material: Nylon webbing
Adjustment: Triglide
MSRP: Starts at $30
Website: thewilderness.com

Pros

  • Affordable, no-frills design

Cons

  • Thin, unpadded strap won’t be the most comfortable to carry for extended periods
  • Attachment hardware must be purchased separately

A basic carry strap, made in the USA from durable nylon web with triglide adjustments, and in your choice of black, coyote tan and OD green.  

You can also add some accessories if you want, including your choice of attachments (QD, traditional swivels, HK hooks) and even padding for a modest upcharge. Simple, rugged, and customizable.  

At The Front WWI 1907 Natural Sling

at-the-front-1907-sling

Specs

Width: 1.25 Inches
Length: Not listed
Strap Material: Vegetable-tanned leather
Adjustment: Dual-prong buckles
MSRP: $99.99
Website: atthefront.com

Pros

  • Perfect match for a classic military rifle
  • Excellent as a stabilizing aid

Cons

  • Leather is more susceptible to the elements
  • Will take care and time to develop an authentic worn look

The 1907 sling can complete an M1 Garand, 1903 or 1917 rifle and is used frequently in national match shooting. 

They also make for a fantastic all-purpose sling. Nearly as fast to adjust as a modern sling, these are comfortable to carry and they can be configured to be used as a cuff/loop sling. For an almost 120-year-old design, that’s incredibly impressive. 

At The Front’s Natural model is as close to the original as it gets. 1.25-inch-wide vegetable-tanned leather dyed very light tan with white stitching and Parkerized hardware. With use (and oiling) it will darken and patina with time, making it as beautiful as it is functional.

Blue Force Gear Hunting Rifle Sling

bfg-hunting-rifle-sling

Specs

Width: 1.25 Inches
Max Length: 46 Inches
Strap Material: Cordura webbing
Adjustment: Polymer sliding buckle
MSRP: $46.95
Website: blueforcegear.com

Pros

  • Sling swivels are included
  • Simple, no-frills design

Cons

  • No option to add additional padding, a thin strap is not ideal for carrying for long periods

Simple, rugged, useful on rifles and shotguns and made by one of the best gear companies in business. BFG’s Hunting Rifle Sling is adjustable from 26 to 46 inches and includes swivels.  

Featuring a 1.25-inch Cordura strap in black or FDE/tan and black hardware. The adjuster is a black polymer glide-style buckle. Made in the USA, with a lifetime warranty and equally at home on a rifle or shotgun. 


Improve Your Marksmanship:

Defensive Revolver Ammunition: What To Use

3

We discuss cartridge considerations and bullet designs for the contemporary wheelgun carrier.

Your goal when using your revolver in a defensive encounter is to make the bad guy stop whatever it is that required you to shoot in the first place. To be clear: You want to stop the threat. Your goal isn’t to create a fatality—though that is a distinct possibility—but rather to cause the attacker to stop their actions.

This stopping, or cessation of action, can be achieved through one of two mechanisms: psychological, where the attacker makes the decision that they don’t want to persist; or physiological, where the attacker’s body involuntarily stops functioning because of the damage the shot(s) inflict.

Defensive-Revolver-Fundementals-1
This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest’s Defensive Revolver Fundamentals, 2nd Edition.

Choosing Defensive Revolver Ammunition

Years of shooting data have shown that the best defensive ammunition uses a hollow-point bullet that expands reliably in the target and penetrates sufficiently to reach vital organs. There may be instances where that choice isn’t possible, but under most circumstances, the modern hollow point is what’s needed.

Since most revolvers used for defensive shooting are chambered in .38 Special or .357 Magnum, it shouldn’t be surprising that the majority of ammo suitable for self-defense is in these two cartridges.

.38 Special

In .38 Special, the best results seem to come from the mid- to heavy-weight bullets (135 to 158 grains) in +P loadings. When I wrote the first edition, the Speer Gold Dot hollowpoint (GDHP) +P 135 grain stood out. A decade later, renamed “Gold Dot Short Barrel Personal Protection .38 Special +P,” it’s still the dominant bullet in the category. Developed initially for the NYPD for backup and off-duty guns, it’s racked up many shootings and has performed exceptionally well. Most modern lightweight revolvers shoot this load to the point of aim.

Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-38-spl
In .38 Special, the best loads are all of the +P variety.

Also, in that first edition, Winchester had a new load called the PDX1 Defender, which was promising. Today, renamed “Defender,” it uses the same 130-grain jacketed hollow-point bullet in a +P load and has developed a good track record in police backup guns around the country. The bullet is intelligently engineered and has been turning in good performances. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it in my own guns.

Today, the new load is Federal’s HST 130-grain +P, which is developing a good reputation. It’s especially suitable for the new generation of short-barrel, lightweight revolvers.

An older load that has a very long track record of decent (though not outstanding) performance is the 158-grain +P lead semi-wadcutter hollowpoint (LSWCHP). This load has been offered by Winchester, Remington and Federal at various times and has the virtue of being relatively inexpensive and packaged in 50-round boxes. Based on diameter expansion in my testing, I prefer Remington, Federal and Winchester—in that order. The load generally shoots to point-of-aim in older revolvers. It wouldn’t be my first choice, but it’s still usable. Be aware that some people find the recoil of the heavy bullet to be painful.

.357 Magnum

The .357 Magnum has long been ruled by the 125-grain semi-jacketed hollow-point (SJHP) loads from the major ammunition makers. It’s the load that defined the .357 as a “manstopper” back in the 1970s and ‘80s (though recent analysis of shooting data by experts such as Greg Ellifritz  casts doubt on that reputation). The 125-grain load has a mixed record; when it worked, it worked very well, but it sometimes expanded far too quickly, leading to shallow and ineffective wounds.

Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-357
The 125-grain hollow point (left) is the usual recommendation in .357 Magnum, but the author prefers the Speer 135-grain load (right).

While I don’t recommend that most people carry a magnum of any type these days, primarily because of the much greater difficulty in controlling the gun in strings of fire, for those who insist, I suggest a more modern and slightly heavier bullet. Speer makes its excellent 135-grain Gold Dot GDHP in .357, and that would be my pick for its ability to maintain structural integrity in the target. Hornady also loads a 135-grain “Flexlock” bullet in its Critical Duty line, which should also perform well.

357-mag-vs-45-acp
The 125-grain .357 Magnum round (left) is light and fast—up to 1,450 fps. The 230-grain, .45 ACP round is heavy and slow, clocking in around 850 fps. Both work, but so do many others that fit in between.

Once you move away from those calibers, the pickings get very slim.

.327 Magnum

The “Baby Magnum” has issues with getting a bullet of sufficient mass to penetrate deeply enough. What’s more, the caliber has fallen out of favor since I wrote the first edition, and the only defensive load on the market that I trust is the Speer Gold Dot 100-grain GDHP. To the best of my knowledge, there are still no actual defensive shootings using this load and caliber sufficiently analyzed for us to derive any solid conclusions. The recommendation is still based on seeing the results of gelatin testing.

Many are shocked to learn about the effectiveness and versatility of the .327 Federal Magnum.

.44 Special

This cartridge is the very picture of an on-again, off-again round. There are times when everyone seems to rediscover this old cartridge, and ammunition suddenly becomes widely available, only to disappear as people move on to something else. I’ve watched this same sequence replay itself several times over the years.

The technical problem with this load is the same as faced by the .38 Special: lack of bullets that expand reliably and penetrate sufficiently. In addition, there are very few defensive shootings on record with this caliber, which further complicates matters.

Today, the .44 Special seems to be “on again,” and there are several loads worth considering. My original recommendation, based on talking with people who use the .44 Special for hunting, is still available: the 200-grain Winchester Silvertip. This round is still the top pick in a relatively narrow field, followed by the 200-grain Speer Gold Dot and the newer Hornady 165-grain Critical Defense (which is very promising, but reliable information on its performance is hard to come by).

45 colt 44 special 44 magnum
Left to right: .45 Colt, .44 Special and .44 Magnum.

.44 Magnum

Dirty Harry notwithstanding, the .44 Magnum is a poor round for self-defense, being overly penetrative and challenging to control for all but the most experienced of handgunners.

However, there may be circumstances where you need a revolver that can do double duty for hunting and self-defense against criminal attacks in the field and might be pressed into protective service.

The first preference would be to use one of the .44 Special rounds listed above in such cases. If those aren’t available, it’s preferable to pick a relatively lightweight (no more than 200 grains) hollow point to limit the round’s penetration. My recommendation (and the only one that fits the criteria) is still the Hornady Custom 180-grain XTP load.

The preceding is not intended to endorse anything other than the .38-caliber revolver for self-defense. I’m of the considered opinion that when recoil and terminal effects are considered together, it’s still the optimum choice for defensive shooting.

What About +P Ammo?

Remember that hollow points expend some of their energy expanding in diameter, but that energy can’t be used to drive the same bullet forward. There’s no such thing as a free lunch; if you want the bullet to expand, it’ll use energy. If there’s too little of it to start with, there won’t be enough left to carry the bullet on its path.

In those cases, the expanded bullet will stop forward movement too soon, which results in very shallow wounds that don’t reach vital organs. As such, you don’t find many expanding bullets in standard .38 Special cartridges—there just isn’t enough energy to drive a bullet deeply into the target and expand it simultaneously.

Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-expanding
An expanding bullet uses part of its available energy in “mushrooming,” or expanding. Careful ammunition choice ensures that there’s enough energy left for proper penetration.

The answer is to start with more energy, enough to expand the bullet and penetrate sufficiently. This task is often accomplished with “+P” ammunition, simply a cartridge loaded beyond “normal” pressure. The +P loading boosts the cartridge’s energy to accomplish a specific task.

A common misunderstanding of +P loadings is that they’re useless since they don’t increase power considerably. Here’s the thing: They don’t need a lot more, just enough to change the performance envelope.

The idea behind the +P load is to add enough energy to reliably deliver an expanded bullet deeply enough to do its job. If a normal-pressure load can’t quite deliver that bullet to where it needs to, but a slightly hotter +P version does, then that’s sufficient for the task at hand.

It’s important to understand that you don’t need vast increases in power for defensive applications; you simply need enough power to perform the twin tasks of reaching vital parts and destroying them. Some will argue that it’s better to have a more significant reserve of energy on tap than a +P, but everything comes at a price. In the chapters on technique, we’ll delve into that concept more.

Ammunition For The Recoil Sensitive

Many people, particularly those with ultra-light revolvers, find that the recoil of .38 Special +P ammunition is too much to comfortably handle. Sadly, there aren’t a lot of alternatives; the Special, in standard-velocity loadings, isn’t well known as a fight-ending cartridge.

Defensive-Revolver-Ammunition-spread
Part of the revolver’s legendary reliability is the fact that it will function with any ammunition in its caliber. Autoloaders, in contrast, are often very picky about bullet weight, shape and velocity.

Many “low-recoil” loads are now available in .38 Special, but they all combine a very lightweight projective clad in a tough jacket that generally doesn’t expand at .38 Special velocities.

The only choice I can recommend for the recoil sensitive is the old 148-grain wadcutter target load. It actually has some good traits: The flat-nose profile cuts a full-sized channel through the target and retains enough energy to penetrate adequately. The downside of the profile is that it’s harder to reload quickly. Some will argue against its use, but it performs better than any round-nosed or fully jacketed bullet in the caliber from what I’ve seen. It wouldn’t be my first choice, except for those cases where +P ammunition is not an option.

revolver-caught-case-extractor
A case caught under the extractor is usually caused by poor reloading technique and wastes any time that may have been saved by trying to go faster.

What About .22 LR And .22 WMR?

There’s no shortage of snobbishness in the defensive shooting world. For instance, most defensive shooting trainers look down on revolvers, and nearly everyone disparages the so-called “pipsqueak” calibers—the .22 Long Rifle and .22 Magnum.

The .22 calibers, more commonly found in rifles than in handguns, are the most prolifically produced ammunition on the planet. It’s estimated that some 2 to 2.5 billion rounds of .22 LR alone are made every year.

Given their ubiquity, it’s a sure bet that some of them get pressed into use against attackers. And they do. While precise data is sketchy, they’re often (though not always) effective in that role.

But should the .22 be considered a viable defensive choice?

First, the good news: A .22, even the Magnum version, will have minimal recoil fired from a revolver. It’s much easier to make accurate rapid-fire hits with it than any other caliber (and, it must be said, they’re an awful lot of fun on the range). For someone who is genuinely recoil-averse, that’s a significant benefit.

The bad news: Except in rare instances, the .22 simply isn’t as immediately effective as a larger-caliber bullet. No matter how adroitly fans of the .22 cartridges try to argue their point, it isn’t and never will be.

However, in self-defense, doing something is usually better than doing nothing. And a .22 revolver, even though it doesn’t have the reputation of its larger-caliber cousins, is a better tool than empty hands and loud words. While I wouldn’t necessarily recommend any .22 revolver as an unqualified first choice, in some instances, it may be the best alternative — if the other choice is to be unarmed.

If you or someone you know is considering a .22 for personal protection, there are a few caveats you should heed. First, most .22 handguns are single-action revolvers; these are never good for self-defense. Their light single-action triggers are a liability in shaky hands, and they’re challenging to fire rapidly, which is necessary for the small .22 caliber. Not only that, but they require practice and attention to detail to de-cock safely, should a shot not be fired. If you’re considering a .22, stick to the few double-action models available.

trigger-pull-gauge-2
This revolver weighs only 15 ounces but has a trigger pull weight of nearly 12 pounds. Keeping the muzzle from wandering under that force differential requires proper technique.

Second, choose the heavier bullets in the cartridges. For the .22 Long Rifle, that would be the 40-grain projectiles. In the .22 Magnum, the 45-grain bullets are preferred. Expansion of these smaller rounds will not be significant (and may even reduce necessary penetration), so solid bullets are preferable.

Practice with these rounds should focus on delivering many shots in one volley accurately to the most vulnerable part of the target to maximize the potential of the tiny bullets. That should be achievable by even the most recoil-shy.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt of Gun Digest’s Defensive Revolver Fundamentals, 2nd Edition.


More On Defensive Revolvers:

RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme Review

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Looking for a practical addition to your reloading bench? Here we discuss the RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme electronic powder dispenser.

When I got serious about reloading my ammunition, my tool set was minimal to say the least, yet it worked just fine. The various steps might’ve taken a bit longer, but it taught me to respect the little details to ensure things didn’t go wrong and no one got hurt—including me. That said, I quickly desired to obtain the tools that’d make the processes faster, while maintaining the quality control that the bare-bones rig offered.

My main interest was the powder charging process, as my early technique involved using a Lee plastic powder dipper and some loose powder in a small cardboard box or, sometimes, in a fancy glass jar top procured from a Yankee Candle jar. All my powder charges were weighed on a balance beam scale—at first a RCBS 505, and then a Redding Model No. 2—with me scooping powder into the pan until the beam began to move, then using a powder trickler to fine-tune the load. It was an accurate means of dispensing a powder charge but wasn’t exactly efficient.

I first tried to use a powder thrower, but for whatever reason couldn’t get it to work out, so it was back to scooping. When the first digital scales came onto the market, I looked at them skeptically, as all the reports indicated the environmental effects could be drastic, and I found those reports to be true. The slightest breeze, fluorescent lighting—you name it—and I had issues.

Finding ‘The One’

It was some years later that I began to try again, with the Lyman 1500 digital scale, but it was the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 powder dispenser/digital scale combo that changed the game for me. For a decade, I’ve had a pair of the units on the bench, and that pair of digital powder dispensers have been invaluable. Despite my efforts to check and re-check the units against a balance beam scale, there has never been a deviation in powder weight that exceeded the advertised accuracy.

The ChargeMaster Lite came next, paring down the control system but not the functionality, followed by the much more precise, and costly, MatchMaster dispenser, giving accuracy down to 0.04 grain at speeds previously unattainable. Were I in the position where I was regularly competing or even just casually shooting long range where I’d want every single advantage, no matter how small, I’d want this unit.

However, it’s the new RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme that makes the most sense to me.

rcbs-chargemaster-supreme
The bold LCD touch screen is simple and easy to use, making for a very flexible package.

Unlike the ChargeMaster 1500, the Supreme is an integral unit, with the dispenser and scale contained in the same housing. The load cell can measure up to 1,500 grains—perfect for weighing loaded cartridges to avoid a gross overload or empty case—and the unit is capable of dispensing 200 to 300 grains of powder.

The Supreme has four leveling wheels for feet and a level bubble to help keep your unit as level as possible, which definitely aids in the most accurately thrown powder charges. Set your unit on a stable platform, and level it as best you can.

Calibrating the unit is a simple procedure, and one I recommend. Let the unit warm up for 15 to 20 minutes (a good idea for all electronic scales), and then use the pair of 50-gram calibration weights to zero the unit properly.

The bright LCD display/touch screen allows the user to make powder weight selections, switch between modes and much more. Soft-touch powder and “go” buttons are located on the sides of the LCD display. The powder hopper is plenty large enough, holding enough powder for almost any loading session, and the new quick-drain on the right side of the unit drains the powder hopper much faster than older models. There’s even an alarm to warn you that you’ve left the drain open.

Make It Your Own

The ChargeMaster Supreme can be as simple or complex as you feel comfortable with. You can run it in manual mode, requiring you to press the go button to dispense each load, or in auto mode, where the unit will automatically dispense the same load as the last as soon as it is stable and zeroed. Or, you can run the unit from your smartphone via a Bluetooth connection through the free RCBS Reloading app.

This was quite a leap for a guy who scooped powder. With the app, all the parameters available from the LCD screen are there, including setting charge weight, dispensing mode, calibration and more. I must admit it felt a bit weird running a powder dispenser from my phone, but it seems like using a phone as a phone is getting lower and lower on the list these days. But don’t feel intimidated if you’re not tech-savvy; you don’t need a smartphone to run this unit.

The ChargeMaster Supreme comes equipped with LEARN mode, where the unit senses the amount of powder being repetitively thrown, and then optimizes the delivery time. This can be especially handy when throwing light powder charges for pistol cartridges, or really heavy charges for the .338 Lapua, .416 Rigby or .470 NE. The ChargeMaster Supreme can store 50 different loads in its memory, so if you often reach for the same load, storing it in the Supreme’s memory isn’t difficult at all.

I tried the ChargeMaster Supreme with three different powders: Hodgdon’s H414 ball powder, Alliant’s Reloder 16—a stick powder with shorter grains—and good old IMR 4064, which is notorious for being a problem child with powder throwers and dispensers. I wasn’t shocked that H414 and RL 16 metered just fine, but it also handled IMR 4064 well, and I can’t say that for most dispensers. Those long 4064 grains can hang up, then dump a clump, especially while trickling.

I’m not going to say that, as a reloader, you can’t live without an electronic powder dispenser, but once get used to having one, it sure won’t be easy to go back. The latest designs have a lot to offer, in both accuracy and time efficiency. Sitting smack in the middle of the RCBS electronic dispenser line, I find the ChargeMaster Supreme to be a very good value. At less than half the price of the MatchMaster, you still get all the features needed to make very accurate ammunition at an impressive rate.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Reloading:

Defensive Handgunning: Skills & Tactics

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When it comes to self-defense with a handgun, you need to understand skills, tactics and the differences between the two.

The most effective use of a defensive handgun is obtained by the proper application of tactics and skill. Though they’re often confused by trainers and trainees, and even though you can be tactically skilled, skills and tactics are not the same thing.

What Is Skill?

A skill is the learned ability to perform an action well with determined results, often in a given amount of time. A perfect example of a skill would be the presentation of a handgun from the holster followed by a shot that strikes to the center mass of a perceived threat. Depending on distance, we could argue about how much time this should take before proficiency is achieved. But the point is that defensive handgun skills involve the physical manipulation of the handgun.

handgun-skills-target
Many armed citizens are choosing ultra-compact handguns for year-round carry to eliminate the need for carry rotation. Some guns can be comfortably carried in a variety of ways.

Believe it or not, there aren’t a lot of defensive handgun skills to learn. You need to be able to draw your handgun, shoot your handgun and keep your handgun working. This is what basic defensive handgun training is all about. Once you learn these skills, you should continually work to improve them. If you’re especially skillful, you’ll be able to do all these things just as effortlessly and quickly in the dark as in the daylight.

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Managing your handgun and keeping it operational is a skill, not a tactic.

What Are Tactics?

A tactic is a plan, procedure or expedient for promoting a desired end or result. An example of a tactic would be the application of the failure drill if two center mass shots to your attacker have failed to neutralize the threat. The failure drill—a shot to the head after center mass shots have failed—is your plan/procedure to deal with that situation. Making that head shot isn’t a tactic, it’s a skill.

Before you begin to learn a tactic, you should at least be proficient with the skill a particular tactic will require. Otherwise, you’ll be trying to learn what to do and how to do it at the same time. It’d be possible to learn all the necessary basic handgun skills separate and before learning any tactics, but it’s the matching of particular skills to certain tactics that give the skills relevancy and even make the training more enjoyable. Why might you need to learn to shoot from behind a barricade? Because certain tactics necessitate the use of cover.

To take this concept one step further, the use of tactics is predicated on the situation. Through training, you condition yourself to use a specific tactic based on the stimulus you receive. In other words, you create a conditioned response. This keeps you from having to think about what must be done.

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This shooter has been put in a situation where he must respond tactically to certain stimuli, and then apply his handgun skills to solve the problem.

Continuing with our previous scenario as an example, the two shots to the center mass of a threat is almost universally the standard defensive handgun conditioned response to a threat. The application of the failure drill—a tactic—is a result of, or a conditioned response to, the failure of center mass shots to have the desired effect.

This all might seem like I’m trying to overcomplicate the use of a defensive handgun, but really, this should make it all much simpler. If you’re going to use your defensive handgun skillfully—in any way—that use should be determined by a tactic, which was driven by a conditioned response. A good firearms training school will present you with a situation or collection of stimuli and the proper tactics to address the problem. For you to apply the tactics successfully, the instruction should then encompass the skills necessary to do that. Defensive handguns are used to solve problems and without a problem the use of a defensive handgun isn’t necessary.

Situational Understanding

Let’s imagine you’re trying to figure out how much carpet you need in your bedroom. That’s the situation/problem/stimuli before you. To do this, you need a mathematic formula—plan/tactic—which would be how to calculate the area of a rectangle/room. We all know that, to do this, you must multiply the width of the room times the length of the room. The skill needed to accomplish this is multiplication. If you don’t know how to do multiplication (skill) or what formula (tactic) to use, you can’t create an effective conditioned response to the problem.

Understand that while there’s such a thing as tactical training, there’s no such thing as tactical shooting. If you decide to take a true tactical defensive handgun course, you should be able to shoot before you get there. Now, while you’re there, you might be tasked with further developing your basic defensive handgun skills, such as becoming faster and more accurate. But this is done to allow you to better use your handgun to enact the tactics you’ll be taught.

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Force-on-force training is the ultimate expression of the conditioned response, tactic and skill application training process

Gunsite Academy offers a variety of defensive handgun courses, which progress in difficulty based on the shooting skill required, the tactics taught and the situations you’re presented with. You can’t attend the Gunsite 499 course until you’ve completed the 350 course, and you can’t take the 350 class until you have passed the 250. Each class builds upon what the previous class has taught you—but in every case, the skills you’re taught are necessary for the tactics you’re asked to demonstrate, which in turn will be dictated by the stimuli you’re given. The ultimate goal is for you to not be faced with a problem for which you don’t have the tactics and shooting skills to solve.

Of course, all of us can’t afford to jump on a plane tomorrow and fly to Arizona. Some of us can’t even afford to take a two-day course offered closer to home. This means that you might need to conduct your own training based on information gathered in various ways.

To make that training beneficial to real-world application, approach it from the conditioned response, tactical answer and necessary skills, concept. Sure, it’s OK to shoot just to have fun, but when serious about training, work on the handgun skills tethered to the tactics you plan to employ, which are ultimately based on practical situations you think you might have to deal with.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the 2022 Made In The USA special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Shooting Skills:

First Look: Ruger American Generation II Rifles

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We check out the new Ruger American Generation II family of bolt-action rifles, featuring 47 configurations in 20 calibers.

The original Ruger American series of bolt-action rifles have been incredibly popular hunting guns since they were first released over 10 years ago. Now, under the new title of Ruger American Generation II, the line is receiving some welcome updates inspired by customer feedback.

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Ruger American Gen II Ranch.

The Ruger American Gen II lineup currently features 47 rifle configurations in 20 different chambering options. Those are split across three categories including Standard, Predator and Ranch. Things like caliber, barrel length and finish vary between the rifles in each category, but at their core, all are fundamentally the same.

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Ruger American Gen II Standard.

As for the customer-inspired updates that can be found on all Ruger American Gen II rifles, they include a pre-installed (and removable) low comb for a better sight picture when using a scope, an oversized bolt handle (5/16×24) and a new three-position tang safety that locks the bolt and allows the rifle to be loaded with the safety engaged. The rifles feature Generation II American splatter-finished stocks that are adjustable for both length of pull and comb height, and their receivers, barrels, bolt handles and muzzle brakes all receive a Cerakote finish.

Ruger-American-Gen-II-predator
Ruger American Gen II Predator.

Speaking of muzzle brakes, some other features that appear to be mostly universal across the Gen II line include threaded barrels with factory-installed radial muzzle brakes, spiral-fluted barrels and user-adjustable triggers. Details like the barrel length, magazine style and available chamberings vary between models, so check out the full lineup to see all the options. MSRP is $729 and they’re available now.

For more information, visit ruger.com.


More On Hunting Rifles:

Lyman Cyclone Case Dryer Review

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Want to get your muddy brass to shine like new? Here we look at the Lyman Cyclone Case Dryer.

My gun club is a nice place to shoot, but it does have some drawbacks. The main one? The range floors. Basically, sand and silt. Your brass can get muddy. If you vacuum up everything that has been left behind, you’re going to have some pretty grubby brass. Rinsing the sand, silt and mud off in hot—even boiling—water can get them cleaner, but getting them dry? In the summer months, I can spread them out in the sun on an old bath towel and they dry pretty quickly. I can’t do that in the winter, and a lot of you can’t do that at all.

Fittingly, Lyman makes a case dryer, the Cyclone, with a simple setup. You put the cases (after their hot water rinse) into the trays, stack the trays, put on the cover and turn on the timer. The Lyman Cyclone dryer both heats the air and blows it through the trays, drying your brass.

Once I have enough grubby brass to run, I put an even layer in each tray, crank it to three hours and leave it. Lyman advises caution, as the brass can be hot once done, but I’ve not had that problem, because I have yet to be at the point of unloading the dryer while the cases are still hot.

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Plug in the Cyclone. Put wet brass in the trays and stack, and put the lid on. Crank the timer and come back when they’re done. It’s that simple.

Then, it’s just dump the brass into your vibratory cleaner, set that timer and get clean and shiny brass. I’ve found that my tumbling media lasts longer, since I’ve rinsed off a certain amount of the dirt that’d otherwise end up in the mix.

If you run your brass cleaning in a wet mix, with stainless steel pins, you can use the Lyman Cyclone dryer to dry your brass after its bath and avoid or diminish water spots on your brass.

Now, the Lyman dryer isn’t without its drawbacks—nothing in life is. Nothing holds the assembly together but gravity, and the inset lips of each tray to the one below it. So, you want to be reasonably gentle in handling … or you’ll knock the trays across your workbench. Drop them, and you’ll need to buy new ones.

Also, hot, drying brass has a particular metallic smell to it. This isn’t going to be running on the dining room table unless you’re a confirmed bachelor (or want to be one). And it does require a power outlet.

The listed capacity is 1,000 .223 or 2,000 9mm empties. (Lots of other calibers will fit; they just list common calibers to give you a sense of its capacity.) Since there are five trays, you can easily dry five different calibers without having to re-sort once they’re dry.

If you’re a serious shooter, your brass gets dumped on the ground, wet or dry, clean or muddy, and has to be cleaned. If you vacuum up everything in your caliber left behind (my gun club has a simple brass rule: Leave it and you lost it), then at the end of your practice session there’ll be a lot of muddy, sandy, stepped-on brass in need of de-silting. That means hot water, and then a trip into the Cyclone.

For the $94.95 they ask, this is a must-have.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Hardware Talk:

Collecting Colt Single Action Army Revolvers

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We discuss how to avoid getting ripped off in today’s Colt Single Action Army collector market.

As of this writing, Colt Single Action Army revolvers have never been more valuable. Browsing Cabela’s online Gun Library, GunBroker, ArmsList and more, prices range from the tolerable to ridiculous—some in the ballpark of $25,000.

As you can imagine, this market is littered with fraud, and many sellers are complicit, knowingly or not. In many cases, you can accurately assess your skill as a Colt collector by the ones you don’t buy.

I’ve collected, bought and sold military surplus rifles for most of my life. This was fostered by their comparatively low prices during my youth; Mosin rifles could be had for as low as $65, and a case of 440 rounds, in a sealed tin, came in at a whopping $40. I fondly recall spending virtually all my money in late high school trying to collect various stamps and markings: Each gun show was like an archaeological dig and I was a fossil hunter.

SAA-collecting-genuine-colt-markings
Markings on a genuine Colt. Note the pony and the small markings on the front of the trigger guard. That tiny triangle with a “VP” in it stands for “Verified Proof” and is an acceptance stamp that the gun has met Colt’s standards for sale to a customer. This is a commonly forged marking on non-Colt parts.

Those days are now long gone, and the surplus market has since dried up in many ways. The average Mosin is now about as expensive as the next gun, with most military surplus rifles going for $500 to $1,000, depending on country of origin and condition. What has since happened to the surplus market is nothing short of criminal.

The same thing has occurred in the Colt market as well, but with substantially greater financial risk.

What Is ‘Value?’

The main issue is what constitutes value. In the surplus market, things tend to level out given the supply of guns that can be readily forged or rebuilt for profit. It’s substantially harder to rip off someone with a Swiss K31 than it is with a 1903 Springfield, simply because there aren’t hundreds of thousands of spare parts floating around to make “new” surplus guns.

I regularly encounter “restored” M1903 and M1 Garand rifles that are anything but; they sport new barrels, stocks and, for the most part, are just an original action. For a parts gun 1903, $1,200 is fully double what you should be paying, considering an original example goes for that much. A genuine receiver doesn’t make a genuine gun.

Unfortunately, the same is happening in the Colt market, where many newly made replicas are being produced, and a large number of these guns can share parts with the originals.

Standard-Manufacturing-SAA-markings
The markings on a great replica, like the Standard Manufacturing Single Action Revolver, differ from those of a genuine Colt. The lettering, size and orientation all differ from an original.

So, why would someone do this? The average Gen 2 Colt is going for $3,000 to $5,000 these days. Several of my collector and historian friends speculate that a full 50 percent or more of the Colt Single Action Army market consists of guns containing non-Colt parts.

Faking Colts is an issue not just because of the insane values these guns hold, but because fakes are increasingly hard to spot—especially if they use original Colt parts in their deception. I’ve seen “genuine” Colts with modern CIP markings on their parts, likely take-offs from another import.

colt-saa-marking-comparison
Markings on individual parts and grips will also vary depending on origin. The Colt (black grips) bears no butt markings, but that’s not to say it’s a copy if it has these markings. Various Colts over the years to have serialized individual parts, and many of these are commonly force-matched to increase value as an “all matching” gun.

Likewise, I’ve seen stamps faked—only original Colts have the rampant pony stamped on them. The placement of these stamps can be convincing, and if you have doubts, ask a collector or local expert to come take a look at the shop before you buy. As you can see in the photos, even Colt stamping from two brand-new guns looks very different, thus compounding the problem by allowing more “fudge” on forgeries.

I once almost spent $2,500 on a beautiful early Colt, only to find that the only actual Colt part was the frame itself. The rest of the parts were reproductions or “upgrades.” While the gun was beautiful and chambered in .44 Special, I discovered that it started life as a .38-40 and was made in about 1895. This was concerning because Colt didn’t start endorsing the use of smokeless powder in their guns until a half-decade later. I wouldn’t have found this out unless I had researched the serial number first. Even then, the seller wouldn’t back down, saying it was worth the price—but, in reality, he was selling a frame dressed up in take-offs or aftermarket parts.

That gun ended up selling for $3,000 a few weeks later. I found out from the store manager, himself insisting that I had lost out on a deal. I was floored because I knew that gun only sold because of the Colt markings. This is what I mean about sellers being complicit in this scam. I’d have paid $500 for the frame, not $3,000, and I’d have had it sent out to be faithfully restored in the original caliber using original parts.

colt-SAA-collecting-caliber-conversion
How confident are you in the strength of your SAA? Caliber conversions are relatively common; this matters, as you don’t want to blow up your gun. Some of these .44 Special loads are only suitable for modern smokeless frames—it’s of critical importance to date your frame as a result.

This begs the question: What number of original parts must be in the gun to make it original in a sale context? I believe that the only truly valuable Colt is one that you buy yourself from the factory and have sent directly to you. My two single actions in this article were sent to me directly by Colt, and I know that they’re truly original. Beyond that, I’d only own restorations from known and trusted sources, such as Turnbull Restorations.

The value of any gun is subjective, and in the above anecdote with the frame, I’d have paid for the single valuable part and then ditched the rest. Would the gun fire? Sure. Would it be a fine companion for the trail and the range? Undoubtedly. However, by my considerations, it was not a Colt in the truest sense. I’d have happily paid for the frame at a realistic price, but consider this: The buyer essentially dished out $2,500 in parts of unknown origin, thinking he had a real deal. His value on that gun was what he paid; my value was different.

Are the documented $25,000 to $35,000 Colts at auction worth that much? Well, they’re selling for that much … and that is all I can say about that.

Restoration Or Ruination

Because the bulk of the Colt SAA line was produced around the turn of the 20th century, there are many guns out there that are completely original but in poor condition. I’ve found that, over time, many of these guns are still great shooters and have lots of life left; however, their cosmetics are lackluster.

One of the most accurate Colts I ever shot and owned was a 7½-inch Gen 3 from about 1980 in .45 Colt. It looked like it was made in 1880. I could tell it wasn’t a gun that enjoyed a nice comfy life in the safe; it had lost most of its finish and had a notable drag line on the cylinder. Nevertheless, it shot point-of-aim with factory Black Hills cowboy loads and did so with astonishing accuracy.

44-spl-vs-45-colt
Cast loads, like this .44 Special (left) and .45 Colt (right), are great in most all SAA revolvers, but only genuine Colt revolvers made after 1956 should be used with anything other than middle-of-the-road loads. The modern Colt SAA is strong and can be used with maximum standard pressure loads (but not Ruger-only loads, they’re much higher pressure). Replicas, imports and first-gens (1873 to 1941) should really only be used with “cowboy” pressure loads, as the steel quality can be dubious either by age or unknown manufacturing practices.

At the same time, I ended up owning a truly beautiful .44 Special that had been fully restored by Turnbull. The gun was a gem and had an accompanying .44-40 cylinder with it. I contacted Colt on this gun, as well as Turnbull, and it was verified to have been made at the former and restored by the latter. I wanted my 7½-inch model to get restored after seeing how nice the finish was on the .44 Special, but I never went through with it and eventually sold both guns for a good sum to some area collectors.

I ended up selling the 7½-inch gun for almost double what I sold the .44 Special for, even though the .44 was a much prettier gun and was, by all accounts, original aside from the finish. What happened was that even though the .45 was beat up, it was fully original and still had a great deal of the bluing on the cylinder and low barrel areas. Honest wear is a badge of honor, and neither shooting this gun nor putting it in leather managed to decrease the value.

So why would such a sad-looking gun out-price a beautiful one? Colt collectors want absolute authenticity and, while Turnbull does what’s arguably the best case-hardening in the world for these handguns, it’s not truly the same as an original Colt’s … except when it is. Turnbull has, in fact, worked with Colt directly on their case hardening, much like how Uberti and other Italian companies worked with Colt to make their C series “Re-issued” cap-and-ball revolvers in the 1970s.

So, are they really Uberti guns if they’re finished at Colt, or are they true Colts?

If you’re confused now, I don’t blame you. It doesn’t seem right that sending your gun to a place that has literally contracted with Colt to provide this exact type of finish is somehow akin to intentionally ruining your gun’s value. However, if you ask any discerning collector if they’d rather have a refinished gun or a worn one in original condition, nearly all will take the latter. I think that this sentiment comes from a place of respectful nostalgia and an earned wariness of fraudsters looking to blend in their work under a pretty facade.

Risk Management

Replacing parts with period-correct originals can be done. There’s a fine line between making honest repairs and doing a complete rebuild, and I believe that line lies solely in the intention of the individual. If you’re a Colt owner and decide to replace a worn slot screw with a new one, I don’t think that you’re deceiving anyone.

What you need to spot is the sometimes-hidden angles that scalpers use … and turn it against them. A very simple method I’ve used is to call some refinishing houses and see if a gun came through them. It might take a while, but most of these places run their business with an FFL and will keep a log of the serial number as a matter of legal requirement. This is a huge advantage, as some of these guns are selling for $5,000 or more, in 95 to 100 percent condition. You want to make sure you’re not investing in something that was screwed together and sent out for a fancy paint job.

Another method of utilizing the serial number is to contact Colt’s Archive Services to receive a letter from the company proving the authenticity of your gun. It’ll show the type of gun, finish, barrel length and original chambering. This is a massive benefit to you as a buyer because it’ll immediately validate your purchase, or it’ll allow you to reassess your expense.

colt-letter

Committed Colt collectors will use the Archive Services to bolster their value; a lettered Colt usually will pick up about 10 percent in value depending on the model and era. Not only are you bolstering value, but you’re also immediately able to see if your gun was rebuilt or altered in barrel or caliber.

colt-SAA-collecting-bbl-markings
The barrel markings on the author’s new 5.5-inch SAA. Note the slightly raised areas around the lettering. This is correct but compare this to the lettering on the author’s new 4.75-inch SAA, which is clean and flat. These two guns shipped together brand new—a great example of the variety in marking styles seen on genuine Colts.

As a general rule, a Colt that’s confirmed rebuilt is almost never worth more than $1,500. My collecting sources tell me that the general base price for a mix-and-match gun made from Colt parts should not exceed $1,500, as this is the overall cost of the parts if they were to be separated and sold individually.

Also, $1,500 is near the MSRP of a brand-new Colt SAA, and, considering that fact, represent a fair price. And think of it this way: These mix-and-match guns fall into a nice category, because you can look for these mixed original guns knowing that you can get a deal on a good shooter without paying the authenticated price tag.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Classic Cowboy Guns:

Holosun Launches DRS-NV Night Vision Red Dot Sight

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Holosun has just released the highly anticipated DRS-NV, a red dot and night vision fusion rifle optic.

Originally unveiled at SHOT Show 2023, Holosun has finally launched its highly anticipated DRS-NV. The optic is a red dot sight with integrated digital night vision capabilities, and the results are very impressive.

Holosun-DRS-NV

The Holosun DRS-NV combines a standard rifle red dot sight with a 1024×768 resolution digital night vision sensor and overlay system. This means that it can be used as both a normal red dot sight in daylight conditions as well as a digital night vision reflex sight in low light. It uses Holosun’s Multi-Reticle System that lets you choose between a 2-MOA dot, a 65-MOA circle and a combo circle-dot. When in digital night vision mode, the optic is capable of up to a 60-fps overlay refresh rate, digital zoom up to 8x and recording video to its 32GB of on-board storage. The DRS-NV is powered by two 18350 Li-ion rechargeable batteries that can run for up to 8 hours, and they’re charged via the included USB cable that can also be used to download your videos to a PC. A wrench, multi-tool and lens cloth are included as well.

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This photo was taken through a prototype DRS-NV at SHOT Show 2023 in a well-lit area.

Further, at the time of writing, each purchase of a DRS-NV will include a way to redeem a free IR head for Holosun’s upcoming RAID rifle light. MSRP is $1,176.46 and it’s available now.

For more information, please visit holosun.com.


More On Red Dot Sights:

Small-Niche Needs: Gary Reeder’s .257 Raptor Wildcat

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We take a look at .257 Raptor Wildcat, a custom wildcat cartridge from Gary Reeder that fills a small niche.

Several years back, I needed a different front sight and a good trigger job on a Ruger Blackhawk. Gary Reeder at Reeder Custom Guns sorted that revolver out for me. He also sent me several of his custom guns to look at: Two were revolvers he’d given a full custom treatment to, and they were exquisite firearms. But the gun that really got my attention was a custom Thompson Center Contender. Not so much because the custom work was all that special, but because the handgun was chambered for one of Gary’s custom wildcat cartridges.

Reeder has developed more than 50 wildcat cartridges, ranging from 0.224 to 0.610 caliber. He’s done this by reshaping cartridge cases, from the .32 H&R Magnum to the .577 Snyder, and just about everything in between. If you like revolvers or single-shot handguns and want something that is a bit unique, there’s no better place to turn than Reeder Custom Guns.

The little TC single-shot Reeder sent me to test, though it had some limited engraving on the barrel and action, wasn’t all that fancy. It was mostly a utilitarian handgun topped off with a Leupold 4x handgun scope. But what made it interesting was that it was chambered for Reeder’s .257 Raptor cartridge.

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Gary Reeder offers custom Thompson Center single-shot handguns and barrels for a wide selection of his wildcat cartridges.

I’ve always been a fan of .25-caliber cartridges, and the .257 Raptor, which is based on the .204 Ruger cartridge, had my attention. Reeder also provided some handloaded ammunition and dies. With 25.5 grains of IMR 3031 powder, that little 10-inch barreled (8 inches of rifling) TC would squirt out an 85-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullet right at 2,000 fps. Recoil was very comfortable, and at 100 yards, five-shot groups averaged just a tad more than an inch. I’ve tested some bolt-action rifles that wouldn’t deliver that kind of precision.

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Out of the short-barreled Thompson Center single shot, the .257 Raptor cartridge delivered near MOA, five-shot groups at 100 yards.

Admittedly, this gun/cartridge combination fills a small niche, but that could be said for all the gun and wildcat cartridge combinations Reeder offers. The thing is, some shooters have small niche needs and wants. This .257 Raptor Contender would be excellent for deer out to 100 yards or so. Though I’d probably go with a different bullet like the 90-grain Sierra GameKing HPBT, which would work a bit better at .257 Raptor short-barrel velocities. For varmints and such, Sierra’s 75-grain Varminter HP at about 2,300 fps should be about ideal out to twice that distance. For those interested, Hornady offers custom dies for this cartridge, and Gary Reeder is the source for reloading data.

Gary-Reeder-custom-revolver
Though Gary Reeder is well known for his wildcat cartridges and single-shot handguns, he builds some magnificent revolvers for hunting or self-defense.

Reeder custom Contenders are available with barrels from 7 to 15 inches, in a wide array of chamberings to suit just about any need, no matter how niche or broad it might be. Additional pistol-length and rifle-length barrels are available as well. Check out what Gary Reeder has to offer. You won’t find a more experienced handgun hunter or wildcatter—anywhere.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the July 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


Raise Your Ammo IQ:

Homicide In America: It’s Not The Guns

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When it comes to murder in America, it’s not the guns, it’s not the genetics and it’s not the economics. It’s the dads.

Repeatedly in the press, we see “it’s the guns, it’s the guns, it’s the guns” as the explanation for homicide in the United States, but this rhetoric only serves to obscure the actual homicide problem. I don’t believe Black Americans are more inherently violent than any other group of Americans, but I do believe the country at large, particularly its white liberal faction, needs to come to grips with what’s going on in the Black community before anything can be fixed. As we go through this deep dive, we’ll discover the mathematical key to solving the murder problem in the United States lies not in gun control, nor even in socioeconomics, but rather in repairing the family unit across all demographics.

We’re going to begin with mathematics, and attempt to replicate this entirely unsourced graph seen on Twitter recently:

Screenshot

(Spoiler: It’s sorta right, sorta not.)

Math

We begin by picking a year. I’m going to pick 2019 for several reasons. First, it was the last good year the FBI has data on, because they changed their data collection scheme in 2020 to make it so burdensome that half the police agencies in the country stopped giving them data. Second, 2020 was an outlier year, with the Floyd riots, “defund the police,” and “all cops are bastards” leading to a reduction in policing and a commensurate crime spike. Third, the residual effects of all that awful 2020 behavior haven’t abated, so 2019 is the last best year for an honest comparison.

Expanded Homicide Data Table 6 from the FBI website gives us our starting point. Caveats: This table only includes cases where some racial data was known by law enforcement, so if a homicide occurs where the FBI has no information about offender or victim it’s excluded from the table. It’s also only of single victim/single offender incidents, which would exclude multiple victim shootings. Because of those two things, we’re going to have to do some careful extrapolation.

Table 6 has 6,578 homicides, which fit the criteria for inclusion. If we presume the ratios exhibited in this table properly extrapolate to the total sample of 16,425 U.S. murders in 2019 and do that extrapolation, this is what we get:

crime-race-data
Sources: census.gov ; ucr.fbi.gov

(Note: For this and all other calculations in the article, I took Latinos out of the white bucket instead of out of the Black or unknown buckets, which is probably an OK assumption but not a perfect one.)

This isn’t the exact number from the mysterious Twitter graph, but it’s curiously close. If we use 2019 numbers to replicate the Twitter graph’s nation sample, we get this:

Screenshot
Sources: census.gov ; ucr.fbi.gov ; ourworldindata.org

My calculation yields different but similar results.

It looks to me as if the chart I raked from Twitter is not accurate, but it’s similar. It seems that chart probably took homicide rates for other countries from the 1990s and rates for the USA from around 2014 as a way to cook the numbers. But the difference between the U.S. white homicide rate and U.S. Black and Latino homicide rates is tremendously stark.

The U.S. white murder rate is comparable to that of the World Bank High Income nations. The U.S. Latino murder rate is comparable to that of the World Bank Lower Middle Income Nations. The U.S. Black murder rate is double the World Bank Lower Income nations and also more than double Africa. But as high as it is, it doesn’t approach the murder rate in most of the rest of the Western hemisphere to the south of the USA. Mexico is worse than Black America, Brazil is worse than Mexico, and El Salvador is the nuttiest war zone of them all, almost tripling Black America.

Further, we know that murder rate doesn’t correlate in any way with gun ownership rate by race in the United States, because Black folks own the fewest guns.

Screenshot
Sources: ucr.fbi.gov ; papers.ssrn.com

Note: While Black gun ownership has increased since 2020, ownership rates expressed here are from a 2022 survey so are conservative in supporting this case.

What do we take away from this, in convenient 280-character Twitter worthy snippets?

1. If U.S. Black and Latino murder rates were the same as U.S. white murder rates, then the United States would have the same murder rate as our economic peer nations even with 400 million guns in circulation.

2. Whites own more guns per capita than Black folks or Latinos, and there’s an inverse correlation between ownership and murder across those demographics, so “it’s the guns” isn’t explanatory for the murder rate differential in these populations.

3. The racist hot take of “it’s genetic” is also not explanatory, because U.S. Black Americans more than double the sub-Saharan Africa murder rate, and Latin America south of the border is almost six times more murderous than the Latinos here.

It’s not the guns. It’s also not the genetics. So, what is it?

Screenshot
Sources: census.gov ; ucr.fbi.gov ; ourworldindata.org

Economics?

Unfortunately, it’s not the economics either, at least not in the United States.

If we take the very crude and direct method, we do see that murder rate falls as average income rises in the United States, but the relationship is steeply nonlinear, and we only have three data points.

Screenshot
Sources: ucr.fbi.gov ; epi.org

You’re going to have a very hard time convincing me that a class of folks in the United States who only make $25,000 per year are going to have a murder rate of 155, so the crude analysis fails. Thankfully, Random Critical Analysis did a lot of this heavy lifting for us in 2015, by analyzing county level data:

Screenshot
Screenshot
Screenshot

He states, after presenting dozens of similar graphs to cover every possible economic marker available:

By now I think it should be pretty clear that the economic conditions of each group are not particularly strong predictors of their victimization rates and that they certainly don’t come close to closing the white/Black gap. Even poor “white” counties have homicide rates quite a bit lower than affluent “Black” counties with low poverty rates.

I’d also note, after perusing these graphs in some detail, that white and Latino homicide rates tend to converge as the areas get poorer. So, what is it? He identifies one major factor on regression analysis which ties all three of these groups together.

Boys Without Fathers

This is your money graph, from the Random Critical Analysis research:

Screenshot

It’s all about single moms and boys with no fathers.

He analyzed the following:

  • Median family income
  • Mean family income
  • Median household income
  • Mean household income
  • Per capita income
  • Family poverty rate
  • Child poverty rate
  • Median worker earnings
  • High school graduation percentage
  • Bachelor’s degree percentage
  • Unemployment rate
  • Labor force participation rate
  • Median home value
  • Median gross rent
  • Percentage renting
  • Home ownership percentage

… and found nothing as predictive as single mother rate.

He goes on to note that single motherhood is higher in the Black community than other communities and isn’t predicted by income or other economic factors, even though the relationship between single motherhood and economics is very close for the white and Latino populations.

Screenshot
Screenshot

Conclusion

Sound mathematical analysis indicates that if we want to reduce murder rates in the United States, we must do two things:

1. Increase the ratio of families with a father present across all racial demographics, and,

2. Figure out why Black families are disproportionately likely to have no father present as compared to other racial demographics and fix that.

That’s the solution to homicide. The answer screams at you from the numbers. Families matter.

Did modern feminism and no-fault divorce increase the number of single mothers? Possibly. Is the increase in single motherhood in the country related to falling religiosity? Assuredly. Did falling religiosity disproportionately affect the Black community? Possibly. Are there cultural pressures within the Black community that leave more Black women without men in the house to help raise children? Possibly. Are those exacerbated by disproportionate incarceration, the prison industrial complex, and the school to prison pipeline? Assuredly. Are they exacerbated by the drug war, by distrust of police in the Black community, and by Black men and boys resolving disputes directly in honor-culture style duels instead of through official channels that they don’t trust? Assuredly.

Could societal messaging praising traditional family units instead of praising go-it-alone mothers help? Possibly. Could similar messaging praising faithful fathers also help? Possibly. Could prison reform, enforcement reform, and drug law reform help? Assuredly. Could a revival of Black community churches or similar institutions help, as both a way to strengthen Black families and provide alternate dispute resolution for beefs? Assuredly. Should liberal organizations campaign to end the family unit? Assuredly not.

Would it help if the Black community trusted the police and courts as an honorable and fair arbiter of disagreements, so they no longer resolved them in combat as honor cultures often do? Yeah, but how the hell do we do that?

How do I, a rural white dude banging away on a keyboard, affect any of this stuff?

This is the hard work nobody’s doing. This is the hard discussion nobody’s having. This is why nothing gets fixed. This is why Moms Demand Action makes all the money and nobody’s ever heard of Black Fathers Matter. Because the latter organization doesn’t exist, and if it did, the rich white female Brady Campaign donors wouldn’t donate.

“It’s the guns.” Yeah, right.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More Knowledge For The Armed Citizen:

Federal Ammunition Releases .25 Auto & .32 Auto Defensive Loads

0

Federal has just released two new pocket pistol defensive loads, .25 Auto Punch and .32 Auto Hydra-Shok Deep.

Pocket pistols, mouse guns, whatever you want to call them, aren’t as popular as they once were. But despite the world of micro 9mms we live in today, extremely little handguns still have their place and plenty of people are still carrying them, even if only as backup pieces. Small defensive guns need small defensive bullets, and Federal has just released two new loads in the form of .32 Auto Hydra-Shok Deep and .25 Auto Punch

federal-32-acp-hydra-shok
.32 ACP Hydra-Shok Deep.

Starting with the .32 ACP load, it features a 68-grain Hydra-Shok Deep Jacketed Hollow Point bullet with an advertised muzzle velocity of 1,000 fps. The projectile also utilizes an improved center post design for more reliable expansion and optimal penetration depth through common barriers. It’s available in 20-round boxes and MSRP is $35.99.

federal-25-auto-punch

Unlike the defensive load of .32 Auto, .25 ACP is too small for bullets to consistently expand, so Federal instead opted to give the .25 Auto Punch a 45-grain jacketed solid projectile. Muzzle velocity is advertised as 825 fps and Federal says it balanced the performance to provide maximum penetration depth out of a variety of firearms and in the face of various common barriers. It’s also sold in 20-round boxes and MSRP is $23.99.

Neither load is a game-changer by any means, but if you ever carry a .25 or a .32 for self-defense, these can make your little friend a bit more formidable.

For more information, visit federalpremium.com.


More On Handgun Ammo:

For The Love Of Snubbies

4

Just because snub-nosed revolvers are small does not make them less than.

I learned a lot from shooting snub-nosed revolvers. And from carrying them. The packability of a short-barreled revolver is not something you should overlook. Yes, the cylinder does add some bulk, but the real problem with comfortable carry is the barrel, the part that acts as a lever against your hip, waist or some other body part. With the right holster (and every handgun you carry should be in the correct holster, no “pocket carry” in the 21st century), it stays secure, rides comfortably and is easy to draw.

What, then, are the complaints that people have with the snubby? Capacity, trigger pull and accuracy.

No Hurdles Too High

Capacity is easy: You’ve got five or six rounds. Unless you opt for a big-frame snubby, then you can get seven—in some, anyway. Go down in caliber and you can stay compact and get seven, but now we’re talking .32s of one stripe or another.

SW-M-442
The S&W M-442 has always been a popular carry gun—so much so that when the IDPA had their tenth championship, S&W came out with this commemorative. Yes, the author was there. Yes, this is his. And, yes, it is unfired.

OK, six rounds it is. Compare that to a subcompact 9mm, with (single stack) six or seven rounds or (double-stack) 10 rounds. I’ll admit that 10 is more than six (I don’t work for the government, after all), but how many times will you or anyone need more than six? And speedloaders make that less of an issue. The compact 9mm brings problems of its own, which we’ll discuss in a bit.

Speaking of capacity, speedloading a snubby can be a very fast thing. Back in the 1980s, I was shooting in an indoor league and entering the Revolver Division. The course was the same for both revolvers and pistols, and with speedloaders I had no problem making the times with the 2-inch S&W M-10 I was using, compared to others shooting pistols.

Practice matters here, more than starting capacity. If you practice with speedloaders you’ll be faster on the reload than the pistol guy who didn’t practice.

snubbies-moon-clip
The round-nose .45s, on the reload, almost seek the chamber centers and fall right in. That’s why it’s so fast.

The trigger pull on a revolver can be a task to handle, but it need not be if you have yours slicked up by a pistolsmith who knows the task. Or you can dry-fire it a lot.

I met Guy Hogue of Hogue Grips fame at the old Second Chance pin shoot. One of the revolvers on his table, with his grips on it, was a S&W M-58. The fixed-sight N-frame in .41 Magnum. I picked it up, flipped open and closed the cylinder, and then dry-fired it. At the look on my face, with a smile and yet a bit tired, Guy said, “No, not for sale.” He had been using that revolver as a demo for years, it had been dry-fired a bazillion times, and it was smooth. And he would get the question every time he set up his table.

If you think a clean double-action (DA) trigger on a S&W revolver is bad, you really haven’t spent a lot of time with various plastic-framed striker guns, or with various “crunchen-tickers.” Not to pick on them in particular, but Glock has said from day one that their trigger is 5 pounds. I have yet to meet a box-stock Glock that even came close to that.

And the traditional double-action/single-action pistols aren’t better in many instances. A first shot DA of 12-plus pounds, followed by a mushy 6-pound single is not conducive to accurate shooting. A smooth all-the-way-through 10-pound trigger (easy on an S&W K-frame for example) makes shooting a lot more fun.

If you really need a single-action trigger pull, then thumb-cocking the hammer gets you a clean trigger pull that weighs under 4 pounds. But if you stick with practicing your DA trigger stroke, you won’t need the single action. Well, not much.

K-frame-snubbies-m-15-m-65
The author’s two snubby K-Frames. Top, the M-15 he used to go six-for-six on a 100-yard steel silhouette. And below is the M-65 that was a daily carry gun back in the day.

Accuracy: This isn’t due to any inherent lack of accuracy in the snubby. In fact, it’s as accurate as any other revolver, since the barrel is tightly screwed into the frame. The problem is you and the short sight radius.

Simply put, your eye can more readily discern (actually your brain does the work, but we speak of it as if the eye does the work) a misalignment when the two parts being compared are further apart. A small variation on a revolver with an 8-inch barrel is a lot easier to see than it is when the barrel is only 2 inches long.

That said, does it matter? Well, if you were to attempt to use a snubby in a Bullseye match, yes. But shooting at typical defensive and practical competition distances, not much, if at all. I was discussing that with the camera crew when I was doing a TV segment, and remarked, “Oh, I can hit that target out there with a snubby” (pointing at the steel silhouette at the back of the range).

“How far could you do that?”

“Oh, I could probably do alright out to 100 yards.” Before I could realize the impact of that, the producer said, “Set it up. Get the camera in position.”

There I was—in front of the camera—telling the viewers that snubbies could hit a target at rifle distances, and then while the cameras rolled, proceeded to single-action six shots for six hits out of my S&W M-15. Clean on the first take, and that was it because I wasn’t going to try it again for the camera.

Advantages Aplenty

Compactness, hand fit, weight and simplicity of use.

A snubby with a round butt, or even just partly rounded, is as compact as you’re going to get for five or six rounds. It will disappear into a pocket of a winter coat (in a pocket holster, of course), and it can even disappear into a pocket of your trousers. In fact, I know of at least one state trooper agency that had trousers tailored for, and revolvers issued to, troopers to carry in their off-hand trouser pocket. In the winter, the snubby went into a holster built into the winter jacket off-hand pocket.

revolver-grips
While the round butt (left) is easier to conceal, it’s only a bit easier. Both are comfortable in the hand; you’ll have to try one of each to see if one is better for you than the other.

That round butt also makes it very comfortable in your hands. Guy Hogue was one of the first to make rubber grips—to fit your hand, to be softer in recoil and to stay concealed—for the then-standard snubby for the carry gun crowd. Unlike a subcompact 9mm pistol, which sacrifices grip for concealability, the snubby is what it is. Making the barrel shorter doesn’t change the grip (a plus and a minus, I’ll admit), and so you can always get a good grip on the draw. That ultra-compact 9mm? Not always so easy, since all you can do is get one finger below your trigger finger onto the frame.

colt-agent-scale-snubbies
Just under 17 ounces and packing six rounds of .38 Special, the Agent was easy to carry and forget about until it was needed.

Weight is good and bad, and bad and good. Good in that it dampens recoil, but bad in that you have to pack it. If you want light weight, then you’re in luck. Colt offered the Detective Special with an aluminum frame and called it the Agent. S&W offered the M-12 and the M-37, a K-frame and J-frame revolver respectively. That 37 later became the 38, with a shrouded frame to keep the hammer from getting hooked on clothing, not to be confused with the M-442, a fully concealed hammer snubby.

SW-M442-scale
The M-442 is even lighter than the author’s agent, but it does that by giving up a cartridge. Still, the 442 can be serviced, but the Agent can’t, so that’s the one you need today.

Less Is More

As for simplicity, that’s easy. As in, snatch the revolver from wherever you’re packing it, point and stroke through the trigger. No thumb safeties, no grip safeties (well, there was the S&W Centennial, with a grip safety, but it’s a collectible now)—just point and click.

And calibers? The latest is the special model, the M-432, S&W has just offered, done in .32 H&R and for six shots worth. The standard snubby caliber is .38 Special, but if you feel that isn’t sufficient then you can have a short-barreled wheelgun in .357 if you wish.

I have a S&W M65 (all steel) with 3-inch barrel, and it was one of my daily carry guns back in the day. (It was a backup to an LWC 1911 in .45.) It was tolerable to shoot in .357. The classic here is the 2.5-inch M-19, something I lusted after for many a year. If you opt for an airweight in .357, well … you’re on your own. Those are pro-level guns and can be painful to shoot more than a few rounds through.

357-airweight
You can get snubbies in .357 Magnum. You can even get airweight ones. Shooting them and enjoying the experience is another matter.

One specialty snubby is a big-bore wheelgun, where you are stuck with the N-frame-sized package. That’s a 10mm, .41 Magnum, .44 Special or .44 Magnum, with sensible loads, or in .45 Colt, and it can be quite the tool. But the best one here is a snubby N-frame in.45 ACP.

Why?

revolver-moon-clip
When it comes to reloading a wheelgun, moon clips are king, and full moon clips are the best.

Because all the top-end .45 ACP loads max out at the top of the recoil level you’d want to be shooting out of a snubby anyway, and when it comes to quick reloads, a .45 ACP revolver with full-moon clips is king of the hill. Don’t believe me? At the annual king of bowling pin shoots, The Pin Shoot, up in Central Lake Michigan, you’ll only ever see .45 ACP wheelguns in the Revolver Event. You face eight pins, you’re required to reload, and everyone uses full moon clips and .45 ACP. The winning time last year was 7.7 seconds, start beep to last pin on the ground.

Yea, sure, revolvers are obsolete and snubbies are no use at all (insert sarcastic tone here).

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


More On Revolvers:

First Look: Meprolight MPO Pistol Red Dot Line

0

We check out Meprolight’s new MPO family of micro pistol optics.

Meprolight has just released the MPO (Micro Pistol Optics) family of handgun red dot sights. The lineup includes a total of six models, with three featuring an RMR mounting footprint and three featuring that of the RMSc/JPoint. Models with an RMR footprint are designated by an “F” at the end of their name and with an “S” for an RMSc/JPoint footprint. Naturally, the RMR models have slightly larger dimensions including their window sizes. All six models also feature shake-awake and a power-saving sleep mode.

MPO-F-MPO-S
MPO-F (left) and MPO-S (right).

Starting off we have the MPO-F and the MPO-S. These open-emitter red dots feature both automatic and manual brightness control over the 10 daylight and 2 night vision settings. The reticle has three modes to choose between, including a 3-MOA dot, a 33-MOA ring or bullseye-style with both the ring and the dot. They run off of a single CR1632 battery and Meprolight says they can last for over 20,000 hours of use.

MPO-DF-MPO-DS
MPO-DF (left) and MPO-DS (right).

Next up are the MPO-DF and the MPO-DS. These are also open-emitter red dots, but they have a simple 3.5-MOA dot for a reticle and their brightness is only adjusted automatically. The DF model runs off of a single CR1632 battery with an advertised battery life of 15,000+ hours and the DS models has an advertised 20,000+ hour battery life using a CR2032 battery.

MPO-PRO-F-MPO-PRO-S
MPO PRO-F (left) and MPO PRO-S (right).

Finally, there are the MPO PRO-F and the MPO PRO-S. These are closed-emitter optics so they offer better protection against the elements, and they’re IP67 waterproof and dust rated as well. These have the same dot/ring/bullseye reticle options as the S and F models as well as the same manual and automatic brightness adjustment settings (10 daylight levels, 2 night vision). As for batteries, they use a single CR1632 and have an advertised battery life of 20,000+ hours.

All 6 MPO optics are available now. Meprolight did not publish the official MSRPs, but popular online retailers currently have them listed between about $190 and $360 depending on the model.

For more information, visit meprolight.com.


More On Pistol Red Dot Sights:

  • The Red Dot Advantage
  • The Best Optics For CCW
  • The Aimpoint ACRO P-2
  • The Trijicon RMR
  • The Swampfox Liberator II
  • Understanding Handgun Power

    2

    While the ammo used by pistols and revolvers can certainly pack a punch, it’s important to understand the realities of handgun power and its limitations compared to rifles.

    As a lifelong student of Elmer Keith, the father of what we could consider the modern hunting handgun and its theory of use, I have come to appreciate the old man and his teachings far more now than I have in the past. And, wouldn’t you know it: Most of what was known 100 years ago is still just as relevant today—and perhaps we need a gut-check on what “handgun power” really means.

    Studying and participating in all facets of hunting/field revolver cartridge reloading, as well as their history and associated stories and legends, I’ve come to the understanding that many shooters today don’t understand what these rounds are actually capable of—ignoring data and instead taking information from anecdotal evidence, often from tall tales and word-of-mouth. In my experience with these cartridges and their associated firearms, I’ve arrived at the conclusion that the revolver cartridge “question” was solved a century ago.

    handgun-power-45-colt
    The .45 Colt is a storied cartridge and offers deep, straight penetration in hardcast form either with Keith-style bullets or traditional flat-points.

    In a manner of speaking, Keith’s word has stood the test of time. The understanding of what he accomplished, however, has largely been lost, as we’ve moved on in technology and abilities.

    Let me explain.

    The Author’s Conundrum

    For me, a .45 Colt or .44 Magnum with a 260- to 300-grain hardcast Keith bullet, exiting the muzzle at around 1,000 to 1,200 fps from a 5-inch gun, will kill virtually anything inside 100 yards with a center-mass hit.

    45 colt 44 special 44 magnum
    The .44 Special (center) is a direct copy of Keith’s own “perfect” load, and it’s still a thumper that can take game. However, Keith did later move to .44 Magnum (right), a longer .44 Special. The .45 Colt (left) was largely dismissed for the better part of a half-century until heavy-frame revolvers began to take over and people began to see that it could, in fact, roll with the big boys. The .45 Colt amped up is no joke, and it exceeds .44 Magnum in many cases. It since spawned the .454 Casull and .460 S&W.

    Simple enough, right? What in the world are we doing with everything else then?

    Well, the gunwriter in me knows that this is how I get work: talking about the next thing that you need. The honest man in me—who has messed up more times than I have succeeded—will tell you that most of the rest is simply marketing, and the guns and cartridges above a certain power level rapidly lose their benefits. There are recoil junkies of course, and I respect those guys, though I need my delicate wrists for typing.

    From a technical standpoint, the energy and penetration delivered with the above-mentioned loads is perfect considering that the associated recoil and training curve are respectively mild and short. You might think that 1,000 fps is slow, but it isn’t. And in my time with hardcast .45 Colt in the Colt SAA and Ruger revolvers, I’ve shot clean through full-grown whitetail inside 75 yards using 0.452-inch Rim Rock bullets in Keith style.

    handgun-power-45-colt-SAA
    Many companies make Keith-style bullets, and loading them can be easily learned. A .45 Colt Single Action Army revolver with 260- to 270-grain bullets at 1,000 fps is a healthy, powerful load that can easily take game and serve for field and recreational use.

    Going up in power to 300-grain bullets moving at the same speed produces serious recoil, especially with jacketed bullets like the Hornady XTP. Increasing to 1,200 fps in heavy-frame revolvers gets a bit stout, and I find myself anticipating the shot, even with plenty of practice. It’s easy to be a pro at the range, but I’ve missed game due to flinching. For a long time, I worried about not having enough power, where in reality, I had plenty to begin with and simply thought I should have more because I believed it would kill better.

    I won’t say that you need more than what was discovered by Keith. It took me the better part of a decade to understand what was already written, and now I tend to go a bit less instead of more. You’ll be remiss if you think that you need more power when you may not even understand how good your loads actually are. There is a big difference between felt recoil, which in large part has to do with the shape of the grip, and the killing ability of the bullet. To my own experience, there’s little difference between hardcast loads in .44 and .45 bores, in that sweet-spot of 240 to 300 grains, being pushed at 1,000 to 1,200 fps.

    modern-alloy-bullets-45-44
    Modern alloy bullets in .45 and .44 calibers are bone-crushing machines that offer deep penetration without all the cleanup of lead bullets of similar shape.

    Unfortunately, shooters often feel like they need more recoil to believe they have more power.

    I’ve let plenty of people shoot my amped-up handloads in real-world game-killing power levels, and they, more often than I want to believe, state that they thought it would be worse … or more “snappy.” A handful have even stated that they thought it didn’t hit the plates hard enough to make them think it was enough to kill a deer. The ideal field revolver is hardly a mule; instead, it should be packable and not obnoxious. What bullets do when they hit steel, especially lead bullets, is no indicator of what they do on game.

    lead-bullets-1
    Lead bullets don’t deform much in gel, making them give less than interesting visual results. However, penetration is deep, with .45 Colt loads able to pass through several blocks of ballistic gel depending on bullet type.

    What Is Too Powerful?

    The big thing to consider when looking at the various levels of power inherent to revolvers is that they are, as a group, widely inferior to rifles. You enter what I like to refer to as the “death spiral” when you try to make it do something it’s not intended to do, in this case making a revolver into something of a rifle by means of increasing its power level to a point of non-function. Some manufacturers try to make a revolver somehow more powerful to negate the handicaps of a handgun … but end up making them worse. “Handheld, heavy, less powerful, stockless rifle with high recoil and limited range that is hard to carry” isn’t much of a selling point, but some revolvers have arrived at this place.

    500-Smith-Wesson
    The upper end of revolver power is occupied by the colossal .500 S&W, a round that’s so large that it’s really in a class of its own, not dissimilar in size to the old .50-70 Government. There’s so much recoil energy, and the guns designed for it are so heavy that it’s made impractical by its size alone. Considering that .500 Linebaugh is made for standard, packable Blackhawk frames, the .500 S&W is just too much.

    There’s a massive difference in power in all but the most powerful revolvers—and the most handicapped rifles. Yes, it is, in theory, true that .460 S&W out of a big X-Frame with a 10-inch barrel is nearly equivalent in total power to a .450 Bushmaster of the same 250-grain weight, both firing 0.451 or 0.452 diameter bullets. But projectile energy alone isn’t the only factor to consider: The revolver is substantially harder to become proficient with and limits effective range due to physical restrictions on optics and the lack of a stock.

    45-70-560-SW-450-Bushmaster
    Examples of rifle cartridges, .45-70 and .450 Bushmaster, flanking the revolver cartridge .460 S&W. Few rifles have been made in .460, while there are almost countless versions in .45-70 and .450 BM. Despite impressive ballistics from a revolver, the learning curve is far steeper with the .460, and the author gave up on it after one season. It was a revolver trying to play in rifle territory.

    However, the thought process that landed us at these massive handgun cartridges began with enough good intention to forgive it. And, more power shouldn’t be the main consideration when looking at revolver rounds.

    For instance, the .45 ACP is a fine field pistol cartridge and is in no way a magnum class revolver load. I’ve killed plenty of large-bodied whitetails with 230-grain Black Hills JHP and Hornady 220-grain +P Critical Duty in a 1911. Both of these loads are absolutely suitable for realistic field use, and I’ve had pass-through shots broadside with the Hornady load. I do not expect the .45 ACP cartridge to exit; in fact, I don’t need it to because I’m hunting under with a bullet traveling less than 1,000 fps suppressed inside 40 yards. I feel that it is superior in noise control and shot placement over 10mm Auto, an opinion that many would disagree with, but I’m not seeing any evidence in practice from active pistol hunters to prove me wrong.

    That said, I’d not shoot at game with this setup nearly as far as I would a revolver; in fact, the 1911 has half (or less) of the range of a .45 Colt 300-grain Keith bullet moving at 1,100 fps. These small incremental differences matter: While both are .45 caliber and traveling nearly the same speed, the difference in bullet construction and penetration ability is paramount. This is a nuanced game when it comes to pistol and revolver hunting, and going hog wild in power is never the answer.

    handgun-power-meplat
    Meplat differences have a great deal to do with a bullet’s on-game performance. The .45 ACP 230-grain FMJ is a known fighting bullet that has given great results—however, most shooters consider it less than ideal for large game. Simply switching to a heavier bullet with a flat point at the same speed will not tremendously increase recoil, but it will dramatically change how the bullet interacts with flesh and bone.

    Bullets truly designed for killing in the field are made to penetrate, and the introduction of mechanical action (expansion) introduces variables to that equation … which can be easily controlled in gel/advertising. The explosive effects of some of these bullet designs is enough to lure consumers into thinking that they need this for success, but this is just not true. Again, simple reliability in revolver loads is what you truly need.

    The most effective wound channels are not so dramatic. Instead, they’re deep-penetrating and as blind to bone as possible. Shooting through something at any angle is what we’re asking of a field gun, a notable difference as compared to defense ammunition where immediate expansion is desired.

    Reinventing the Wheel

    Continuing improvement in design is what we strive for, but that continuing improvement in revolver cartridge design is a bit of a misnomer, as it is more of a continued branching off of a proven, rooted trunk than anything else. The main design elements are already decided in most cases: Most designs out there are just longer versions of existing cases. Simply lengthening cases is a sure way to increase bullet weight and powder capacity, though the purpose here lies largely in tinkering than true utility.

    What’s known to work hasn’t changed. Notice that, aside from reduced-power specialty competition cases (think .45 Cowboy Special), nobody is making any “less” powerful revolver cartridges. Instead, they keep getting bigger. I wonder who is truly asking for these.

    500-SW-45-colt-44-mag
    The .500 S&W next to .45 Colt and .44 Magnum. The comically large size of this cartridge is immediately apparent: The loads shown here in .44 and .45 are both hardcast Keith style and fly at around 1,200 fps, enough to take most game animals in the country at 75 yards or so with manageable recoil.

    So, is it true that we’ve hit peak revolver performance more than a century ago? Well, it could be argued that we arrived with Keith and his .44 Special testing in the ’20s and ’30s, but it wasn’t until he  had the commercial support to deliver the .44 Magnum later that I feel we truly hit the pinnacle. The .44 Magnum is, in many ways, the perfect revolver cartridge, and when loaded with Keith’s own bullet designs, it’s arguably the most balanced performer from a 4- to 6-inch barrel under field conditions in terms of ballistic abilities, effect on game and ability to be carried.

    It seems that we keep coming back to this every decade or so, and then promptly forget it when it’s not used in the field but instead as a range toy that needs more “boom.”

    Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the August 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.


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