Think pitching 220-grains of 10mm lead out of a Glock is bone jarring? Massad Ayoob proves otherwise.
Glock has won legions of fans and die-hard enthusiasts over the years for one big reason — their pistols are reliably boring. The polymer-framed pistols can be ridden hard, put away wet, and still be rearing for more action.
That’s exactly what you want to hear about a semi-automatic primarily designed as a self-defense arm. And is the reason why a great many duty and concealed carry holsters have a piece of “Perfection” hanging in them. But in recent years, another clan of shooters, one known for their exacting standards when it comes to handguns, has woken up to the advantages the company's handguns offer.
Increasing numbers of hunters have given the company’s 10mm options the nod for deer, hogs and other medium to large game. And it’s not just the capacity and fast reloads that has them enraptured. It’s the pioneering ergonomics Glock brings to the table that makes their guns more manageable to shoot, thus potentially more accurate. Massad Ayoob gives a fairly good example of this in the above video in a side-by-side comparison with a Gen 4 Glock 20.
First the iconic self-defense expert runs defensive rounds through the gun — PMC Bronze 170-grain JHP. They’re snappy, to be sure, but nothing most shooters can’t handle. He then loads a magazine full of red-hot hunting rounds — Buffalo Bore 220-grain hard lead bullets, the heaviest a 10mm can pitch. The rounds leave the muzzle at around 1,200 fps and deliver more than 700 ft/lbs to a target, so they’re smok’n. Yet, coming out of the Glock 20, they don’t prove much more punishing than the PMC ammo.
It’s amazing how the little things, such as the pistol’s replaceable backstraps, RTF grip treatment and double-captive recoil spring guide rod add up to tame the gun. But also makes it understandable why more sportsmen are lining up to give Glock a crack on their next hunt.
For more information on Glock please check out: www.glock.com
While neither a true sidelock nor boxlock, the Syracuse Lefevers were among the most innovative and possibly the most well designed of the classic American doubles. This refurbished G-grade features moderate engraving and utilizes the ball and screw hinge instead of a hinge pin.
There are great deals on vintage shotguns for those willing to shop, but you better ask the right question before putting cold, hard cash on the table.
The best place to shop for a classic shotgun is online. Always search the most recent listings first. If searching auctions, look at the number of bids. There’s some risk since you can’t actually see the gun in most cases, but most sellers have reasonable return policies, and you can see more guns in one evening than you could by attending 20 gun shows. The main thing is to ask the right questions. I composed this list when I first became interested in doubles. I’ve added to it a couple of times. There is also an explanation of a few of the questions. Hope it helps.
Vintage Shotgun Questions:
Are there cracks or chips in the wood?
Is there evidence of repair to the wood?
Is the level of the wood lower than that of the metal (proud metal)?
Is the checkering clean and in good shape?
Has the checkering been finished over?
Does the gun’s metal appear refinished?
What’s the length of pull to the front trigger? (Length of pull should be about 14 inches to the front trigger)
Is the forearm loose?
What’s the percentage of case color?
Is the engraving sharp?
What’s the percentage of bluing?
Is the lettering on the blued surfaces sharp? (Poor refinishing often affects engraving and lettering.)
Are the screws damaged? (Screws on these guns were timed, and slots should all orient from front to rear.)
Is the lever right of center? (Lever right of center indicates excessive wear.)
Is there movement between the barrel and receiver with the gun closed and the forearm removed?
Is there sideways movement between the barrel and receiver with the gun open?
Does the gun operate properly?
Are the trigger pulls light and crisp?
Do numbers match?
What’s the length of the barrels?
What are the chokes?
Is there any pitting in the barrels?
Are there any dents or bulges?
Is there any metal pitting externally?
Has the gun been personalized with numbers, initials, etc.?
By asking these questions, you can eliminate 95 percent of the surprises that inhibit most folks from buying on the net or making a bad purchase. If you’re buying in person or on the web, use these questions as a checklist to make sure you check everything.
This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
They might not be as well-known as some European manufacturers, but there were a number of great American double-barrel shotgun makers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. These guns remain highly collectible, and many are also fine shooters.
Beyond the fact that old double shotguns are the only handmade shotguns you can buy for less than $5,000, there are other rewards to owning old shotguns: Most vintage American double guns were so well made they’ve survived for close to a hundred years without requiring a repair. Knowing the gun you’re shooting has more history than you do also helps enrich the experience. While it’s rewarding to own such a gun, there are things to be considered before buying one.
The Golden Age
During the golden years of American double guns, there were several primary companies making guns. All originated in New York State except Parker, in Connecticut, and early Foxes originating in Philadelphia, but later made in New York. The Golden age of American shotguns lasted only about 40 years, from about 1890 until the Great Depression. Guns were made after that time, but most collectors agree that quality began to decline after the depression. The only quality American double introduced after the Great Depression was the Model 21 Winchester, showing up in the ’30s. While it was a fine gun and equal in quality to the others, the Model 21 really doesn’t fit with these older guns because of the time frame and because it was a lot more expensive.
Shown here are two original-condition lowest-grade 20 gauges. The upper is a Parker Trojan with its distinctive recessed and rounded hinge pin. The lower is a Fox Sterlingworth. The Fox action is simpler and much more compact. Parker came in multiple frame sizes, but Fox had only three.
All the companies during this period offered guns at different price levels with different levels of adornment and options. Generally, graded guns were a custom-order arrangement with the buyer specifying barrel length, choke and stock configuration, and almost any other option desired. The top grades represented the highest levels of the gun maker’s art and rivaled the finest English shotguns. The lowest grades were affordable to the average working man, though still a considerable investment for the time. All these makers had a field grade level of gun that came in a basic stock configuration with little adornment and different barrel lengths, as well as gauge and choke choices.
Double Gun Considerations
Early guns often had Damascus barrels, and most who plan to use their doubles extensively avoid them. Damascus barrels can be used with low-pressure loads but should be checked for pits, dents and bulges by a competent gunsmith before use. In fact, it’s a good idea to get any gun from this era checked out before shooting it. In quality guns, I don’t worry about Damascus. At the time most of these guns were made, high-quality Damascus barrels cost more than fluid steel barrels.
Guns built in this era had chambers shorter than 2¾ inches. In spite of this, most aficionados of old doubles agree they have no trouble digesting modern ammunition as long as you stay away from high-pressure loads. RST makes 2½-inch shells in case you worry about chamber length, as well as lower-pressure shells for those who worry about 100-year-old wood and metal. Shooting heavy loads in these older guns isn’t a good idea, even for the ones with fluid steel barrels or longer chambers. Metallurgy at the turn of the century wasn’t what it is today, and 100-year-old wood shouldn’t be subjected to the stresses of heavy recoil.
Totally functional while being remarkably beautiful, a fully restored G-grade Lefever and a 1910 Fox Sterlingworth pin gun. Called a pin gun because the earliest Sterlingworths used the same recessed and rounded hinge pins that made Parker guns so identifiable. Only a few thousand of the early Sterlingworths had this feature.
While these guns work well in the field, it should be remembered these older designs didn’t have inertial firing pins or intercepting sears. This makes them a bit less safe than modern guns, so special care should be taken to keep them pointed in a safe direction when they’re closed. On upland birds, I generally hunt with the gun open and only close it when the dog has pointed. Most of these guns had double triggers. Single triggers were available on most models, but the mechanisms were quite complicated, prone to trouble and expensive to repair. Ejectors are an option that adds value, and most systems were reliable, but problems with ejectors can be expensive to rectify.
The American classic shotguns were available both as boxlocks and sidelocks. Boxlocks tend to be stronger and simpler, and most agree sidelocks have a more graceful appearance. Though sidelocks are currently much more expensive to make, they were competitively priced during the classic double gun period because all guns were basically handmade anyway. Today, quality 12-gauge field grade guns from all the American makers during this era can be found and purchased for less than $1,000. Smaller gauges progressively cost more, with 20-gauge guns generally bringing at least twice the price of a 12 gauge. Sixteen-gauge guns generally fall somewhere in between. Guns chambered for .410 and 28 gauge bring a premium.
Decisions, Decisions, Decisions!
Parker Guns
Parkers bring the most money of the American classics and are often considered the best of the American classics. Internally, they were more complicated than some other brands, but they were so well made they rarely have mechanical problems. Parkers come in several different frame sizes for different purposes, allowing for light and handy 12-gauge bird guns and substantial 12 gauges for waterfowl hunting. Parker offered more choices of grade and frame size with twelve frame sizes and ten grades, A1 being the highest and “V” being the lowest grade, with a field-grade gun called a Trojan.
A.H. Fox Guns
Foxes are probably next in the lineup, and I believe they were a better design, though I’m sure this will raise the ire of Parker owners. The Fox design was simple with less moving parts and coil springs. The receiver was also much smaller, with a Fox 12-gauge frame smaller than the frame of a 20-gauge Parker. Fox guns were direct competitors, and a Parker sold for about the same price when new. Fox guns were available in only three frame sizes, but there were four different barrel weights. The 12-gauge guns came in two frame sizes, the larger intended specifically for waterfowling. The same frame was used for both 16- and 20-gauge guns. Fox grades begin with A -grade and end with F-grade. The field grade was designated as the Sterlingworth.
What makes these guns so interesting is the amazing level of detail, even on lower-grade models. This G-grade Lefever has intricate hand-cut engraving bordering the fences and top lever. The beautiful case coloring was part of the hardening process and wasn’t just cosmetic.
Lefever Guns
Neither a sidelock nor a boxlock, another truly fine American shotgun was the Syracuse Lefever. The Syracuse Lefever is not to be confused with the Lefever Nitro, a cheaper version of an Ithaca made after Ithaca bought out Lefever. The original Lefevers were both well made and innovative of design, and many consider them the pinnacle of American shotguns. They use a unique and innovative hinge system that’s never been replicated, and I believe it was a superior design to anything made since. Instead of a pin on a half circle, the Lefever hinged on a ball and socket and the ball could be adjusted for wear. Extremely well made and graceful in design, they’re currently appreciating in price faster than any other maker. The AA grade was highest, with the G-grade lowest and a field grade designated the DS for Durston Special.
L.C. Smith Guns
L. C. Smith shotguns were true sidelocks. L. C. Smiths are graceful, slender and pleasing to the eye, but the sidelock design compromised the strength of the stock, and many of them have cracked or repaired stocks. They were available in eight grades and in gauges from 10 to .410. While other makers designated their grades using letters, L. C. Smith guns used names from Field to Deluxe, with only 30 Deluxe guns being built. In higher grades, the side plates allowed more room for engraving, and they have a strong following.
Ithaca Gun Company Guns
Similar to the L. C. Smith in value and quality was the Ithaca. There were more different designs of Ithaca guns than any other American classic, including both hammer and hammerless models. The most recent design was the NID or New Ithaca Double. Earlier versions are not as strong as those of the other manufacturers, and, while they can still be used, they shouldn’t be used with modern high-pressure ammunition on a regular basis.
Baker Guns
Less known than the other brands, the Baker isn’t as well thought of as the other makers, but they were fine guns. Bakers were also sidelock guns, and they sold for a little less than the other brands, but they were very well finished both inside and out.
While neither a true sidelock nor boxlock, the Syracuse Lefevers were among the most innovative and possibly the most well designed of the classic American doubles. This refurbished G-grade features moderate engraving and utilizes the ball and screw hinge instead of a hinge pin.
Parting Shots
Owning old guns like these admittedly isn’t for everyone. They aren’t as versatile as modern guns, they don’t have the same safety features, and they’re limited in ammunition options. They are truly handmade guns, though, and if you do your homework before buying, they are almost certain to escalate in value over time. There’s also an element of pride in their ownership. Every time I take one of my old doubles afield, someone comments on how beautiful it is. The history of these guns captures the imagination.
My favorite gun is a 1917 Fox Sterlingworth in 16-gauge. It has a slim and delicate grip, balances like something alive, and weighs just 6 pounds. I’ve hunted with it all over the country and have taken everything from pheasants and ducks to bobwhite and Gambel’s quail. It’s been restocked with beautiful figured American walnut and functions just like it did 100 years ago when it left the factory in Philadelphia.
Even the field grades of these wonderful old guns were made with real hand craftsmanship, at the hands of men who truly cared about what they produced. They can be used as they are, with the patina of their long years of service, or restored to look like they just came from the factory. Either way, they’re firearms that are a joy to own and be proud of. I often wonder who will be the next owners of my favorite little Sterlingworth after I’m gone. I hope they enjoy this fine old gun as much as I have.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Zeroing in on the front sight and executing a clean trigger press keeps a handgun on target no matter its movement.
From Zen-like breathing drills to the perfect proportion of push and pull in a grip, much is made about mastering the the natural wobble when shooting a handgun. But in the scheme of things, is it ado about nothing?
Certainly, proper sight alignment is key to sending a round from a handgun to where it needs to go. And the natural oscillation from breathing, muscle tension and, in certain circumstances, adrenaline has to be overcome. But wouldn’t it be nice if this problem could be whipped without resorting some far-fetched timing up of respiration, bodily tremble and breaking a shot. Quite simply there is and it relies on two of the most down-to-earth, day-one fundamental aspects of handgun marksmanship — focusing on the front sight and clean trigger pull.
Sound hard to believe? It shouldn’t. But if you need proof, Gunsite instructor Mike Moore more than provides it in the above clip.
Moore has a student’s hands and handgun wobbling like it was happy hour, yet each shot lands center mass — actually in a group many steady shooters would like to consistently print. The secret is really no secret. Concentration on the front sight keeps you on target every time and a smooth trigger press, complete with follow-through ensures the proper alignment at the moment of truth.
Simple as it may sound, these are still handgun skills that require practice to master. But, this minutia is worth the effort. When faced with life-threatening circumstance, you better believe your gun is going to dance. The only way to make sure it doesn’t become a factor in surviving the incident is ensuring front-sight focus and a technically-sound trigger press are second nature.
Click here for more information about Gunsite and the extensive firearms instruction they offer.
The lightest and smallest short-barreled rifles and AR pistols CMMG offers, the Banshee line is fightingly nimble.
What the compact Banshee line brings to the game:
The Banshee line is composed of short-barreled rifles and AR pistols.
As expected, the SBRs require NFA registration and tax stamp.
The guns are among the smallest and lightest in CMMG’s catalog.
The pistol-caliber Banshees weighs in at just over 4.5 pounds, while the rifle caliber is just over 5 pounds.
The Banshee is available in four calibers: .22LR, 9mm, .45 ACP and .300 Blackout.
The SBR configurations come with CMMG’s innovative Fastback stock.
The 9mm and .45 ACP feature the company’s pioneering Radial Delayed Blowback operating system.
The Banshee runs from $1,449 to $1,499.
Ominously, CMMG’s Mk4 Banshee made its appearance on the national stage this past Friday the 13Th. But the only thing that could prove to be unlucky about the Missouri gunmaker’s wicked new guns are the hoops shooters have to go through to put most in their safe.
Yup, the Banshee line is nearly top to bottom NFA regulated — registration, tax, stamps, the whole nine yards. That’s the breaks (illogical as they might be) in the short-barreled rifle world. The company has taken some mercy on the hearts of those who refuse to jump when the ATF says frog, releasing complementary AR pistols in the line’s four calibers. Even so, CMMG gives ample reasons to contemplate doing the Fed’s paper dance; by all accounts, the backpack-portable carbines are sound as oak joists and light as a morning breeze.
That latter facet isn’t all re-written press release hyperbole either. The guns are plum featherweight. The pistol-caliber Banshees just trips over the 4.5-pound mark, while the rifle-caliber configurations are well within a rounding error of a flat 5 pounds. As those who shoot magnum revolvers know, this is tantalizingly tickling handgun heft — with the benefit of a stock (or brace).
CMMG offers the Banshees in .22LR, 9mm, .45 ACP and 300 Blackout, each boasting the shortest barrel the company bores for the calibers. In the case of pistol-calibers that snaps the tape at a nimble 5-inches, while the Blackout measures out at 8 inches. In both cases, the Banshee should prove not only portable, but also as fast handling as they come — particularly in a close-quarters application.
The Banshee come decked out, as those familiar with CMMG would suppose. Each version of the Banshee sports the company’s new ambidextrous charging handle, as well as sling plate and safety selector. They come standard with a Cerakote finish, an RML M-LOK Hand Guard and a Magpul MOE Pistol Grip. The AR Pistol versions each come with a Tailhook Mod 2 Brace.
The SBR versions come equipped with a Magpul MVG Foregrip and feature CMMG's new RipStock — a new compact buttstock, fully machined out of 6061-T6 aluminum and Cerakoted at the factory. The stock features two of CMMG's patent-pending technologies: Fastback and P3. The former does away with a lever release to deploy the stock and the latter presets the length the stock extends. Handy.
The 9mm and .45 ACP BANSHEEs feed from factory Glock magazines. Additionally, they utilize CMMG's patent-pending Radial Delayed Blowback operating system, which uses a lighter buffer and carrier than the typical straight blowback design.
There is a little matter of cost and the Banshee line demands considerably more than the everyday sporter AR. But at a range of $1,449 to $1,499, the guns aren’t relegated to pipe-dream status — even with Uncle Sam expecting his cut on the SBR configurations.
For more information on the Mk4 Banshee please check out: www.cmmginc.com
Self-defense is a fight for your life. The only way to ensure you come out on top is preparation.
Have you ever heard of having a combat mindset? Let me give you the best advice I can to help you save your life. Read, consume and absorb Principles of Personal Defense. Jeff Cooper, the founder of Gunsite, wrote this book and it costs less than 20 rounds of good defensive handgun ammunition. For those who will not take my advice or whose wallets are as tight as a barrel bushing on a 1911 — with apologies to Col. Cooper — I’ll summarize.
Alertness: Be aware, be ready; bad things can happen at any time. Live by the Gunsite (Cooper) Color Code.
Decisiveness: Counterattack now! Do not tarry. To ponder is to perish.
Aggressiveness: Go at it like you mean it.
Speed: Be sudden, be quick. Be first.
Coolness: Keep your wits. Don’t lose control of your emotions.
Ruthlessness: Strike with all your strength for every blow. Shoot them to the ground.
Surprise: Do not wilt, do not cower, and don’t be predictable. Fight back.
This, in brief, is the mindset you must have for self-defense. An acquaintance believes in luck, and if it did exist it would be a wonderful thing to believe in. But luck seems to have a way of showing up at random. And, randomness, while it might be acceptable in sports, love and hunting, is not acceptable in a self-defense situation — when your life is on the line. As it’s been said, luck is when opportunity meets preparation. Prepare your mind — get the combat mindset — and when opportunity or bad timing puts your life on the line, you’ll be lucky.
When I think of how you should approach a self-defense scenario, I think of my grandfather, a farmer turned moonshiner, turned entrepreneur, and later a member of the local Board of Education. He never got past third grade, but when I was growing up, he was the smartest man I knew. When Grandpa wanted you to get after a job with unwavering commitment, he would say, “Get at it like you’re killing snakes.” I can think of no better way to describe the response a violent attack should elicit from you.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
As in any pastime, there are myths and half-truths that seem to have a life of their own, and the world of hunting and shooting probably has more than its share. Because internal and external ballistics can be so … well, intimidating to those who are simply hunters and not technically oriented, it’s understandable. Then there are terminal ballistics and cartridge/rifle performance, which can be quite subjective.
As a boy hanging around the little sporting goods store my buddy’s dad owned on 131st Street in Cleveland, we overheard all kinds of stories that, as impressionable pre-teens, we took as gospel. After all, some of the men who hung around the store had big game experience in Pennsylvania, West Virginia — even exotic places like Wyoming and Colorado, so they had to know what they were talking about!
Shooting Myth No. 1: Long barrels are more accurate than short barrels
Actually, the reverse is more often the case. Short barrels are stiffer, and, thus, the amplitude of vibrations — or barrel flex — is less. Benchrest rifles sport short, thick barrels. It’s true, however, that where iron sights are concerned, a long-barreled gun can be aimed more accurately because the sight radius (distance between the front and rear sight) is longer and the margin of aiming error is less.
Where iron sights are concerned, the longer the sight radius, the more accurate the gun can be aimed. The use of an aperture sight also maximizes the accuracy potential of iron sights.
That’s why accurately shooting a handgun with a sight radius of just a few inches is so much more difficult than shooting a long gun. Conversely, using an aperture or “peep” sight further increases the sight radius of a rifle, so it provides the most precise non-optic aiming system. Of course, the use of a riflescope negates barrel length and sight radius having anything to do with aiming accuracy.
Shooting Myth No. 2: A bullet rises as it leaves the muzzle
This is a myth to be sure, but there are a couple of caveats. For one, though a bullet begins to fall the moment it exits the muzzle, it does “rise” in relation to the line of sight (as opposed to the bore line, which is an imaginary line down the center of the bore out to infinity).
Whether utilizing iron sights or a riflescope, the line of sight — which is also a straight line out to infinity — starts out above the bore line, so if the two are to merge (zero) at any distance downrange, the sights (iron or optic) have to be angled downward to intersect the bullet’s trajectory. Normally, this first occurs out at 20-30 yards if one is zeroing in a typical centerfire rifle at normal distances. This is where “the bullet rises” comes from because beyond that first intersection the bullet is now traveling above the line of sight. As the bullet continues falling beyond that first intersection point, the two converge again at the desired sighting-in distance — your zero.
This illustration shows why a bullet supposedly rises when it leaves the muzzle. It “rises” only in relation to the line of sight.
As for the other caveat, a bullet can, in fact, rise very slightly after exiting the muzzle. This seeming contradiction of Newton’s Law can occur if, at the moment of departure, the barrel is flexed so that its attitude sends the bullet out on a line slightly higher than the bore line. The longer and/or thinner the barrel, the greater the divergence can be, but it’s so miniscule as to be purely academic. It all makes sense if you just imagine giving a violent up-and-down shake to a garden hose and watch how it undulates. That’s what a gun barrel does as a bullet accelerates down the bore. It’s also why, when zeroing in or testing loads on a 100-yard target, a load pushing a heavier bullet can impact higher than a lighter one.
Shooting Myth No. 3: ‘Enough gun’ means dropping animals immediately
More a belief than a myth, it’s held primarily by “low information” hunters — to use a recently coined term for describing voters. Far too many hunters believe that if an animal doesn’t virtually drop in its tracks, “more gun” is needed. Such determinations are often the result of ego, especially if the animal is wounded and not recovered. “I can’t understand it; it was a perfect shot.” Sure it was.
The truth of the matter is that the typical hunter today is over-gunned, and it’s especially true of whitetail deer hunters who comprise the vast majority of our ranks. If it were possible to shoot 10 identical animals under identical circumstances using the same cartridge and load, there would be 10 different reactions. With all being hit with a perfect heart/lung shot, some would drop where they stood, others would run anywhere from a few to a hundred yards or more.
Almost every magnum-class cartridge, whether commercial or proprietary, introduced in the past 20 years has been based on beltless cases. The entire Dakota family of cartridges shown here are all in the magnum class — but not identified as such.
The fact is, most hunters armed with 7mm and .300 magnums would be better served — and better shots — using a .260 Rem. or 7mm-08. Either is enough gun for all but the biggest bears and long-range elk hunting. And the .270 and .280 even more so.
Shooting Myth No. 4: Mystical ballistics really do exist
Back in the ’50s and early ’60s, the Weatherby Magnum rifle was more or less the Holy Grail for aspiring gun weenies like me, and apocryphal tales of Weatherby Magnum cartridges were quite common. Most often heard was that you could hit a critter in the foot with a Weatherby, particularly the .257, and it would drop on the spot as a result of “hydrostatic shock.” You don’t hear that one too much these days because we have so many cartridges that match or exceed Weatherby ballistics — and far too much empirical evidence to the contrary.
Shooting Myth No. 5: Handloads are more accurate than factory loads
Twenty-five years ago that was a fairly safe, though not certain, wager — assuming hunting rather than match bullets, and a modicum of handload development. Today, with premium loadings put together with superior components using more stringent quality control standards, it’s often difficult to match, let alone exceed, the performance of a premium factory load with a roll-your-own.
Assuming sufficient load development, a handload will almost always provide an accuracy edge over a factory load because it is tailored to a specific firearm. Today’s premium ammo, however, can make it a difficult and time-consuming effort.
Ultimately, the handload will always win because the customization possible in developing a load for a specific rifle can’t be duplicated in factory ammo, but the amount of load development and range time required might not be worth what might be only a minimal difference.
Shooting Myth No. 6: There are magnums … and there are magnums
There are too many examples that defy accepted lexicon to list all of them here, but here are a few magnums that aren’t, and some non-magnums that are:
The .256 Win. Magnum, now obsolete, was a pipsqueak of a rifle cartridge based on a necked-down .357 Magnum pistol round, and the .25-06 Rem. is a magnum-class cartridge without the belt and title. Both are .25-caliber cartridges, but the .256 can’t carry the .25-06’s water.
There are magnums, and there are magnums (left to right): .256 Winchester, .257 Weatherby, 6.5 Rem., .264 Win., .350 Rem. and .358 Norma.
The 6.5 Rem. Magnum, which was rolled out in 1965, had the moniker and the belt, but it couldn’t match the ballistics of the existing .264 Win. Mag. Both carried the magnum designation, but one was and the other wasn’t.
The .220 Swift was introduced in 1935 and — despite lacking the official magnum designation — has been king of the .22 centerfires ever since, tremendously outperforming the .222 Rem. Magnum introduced in 1958.
It wasn’t all that long ago that if a cartridge didn’t have a belt, a lot of folks figured that it couldn’t be a magnum. Today, virtually every magnum-class rifle cartridge that has been introduced these past 20 years or so are sans belt. Go figure.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
There's more to Springfield Armory than just off-the-shelf XD pistols. Its custom shop is more than capable of turning out heirloom-quality firearms.
There are few things that measure up to putting your very own custom gun in your safe. Maybe bringing home that first kid from the hospital. But even there the gun arguably might have the advantage. After all, it will never soil a diaper.
With the image of a firearms manufacturer for the workingman, Springfield Armory isn’t typically the first gunmaker that pops to mind when the discussion turns to custom guns. But there’s much more to the Illinois company than its wide selection of off-the-shelf 1911 and XD pistols and M1A rifles.
Luke Hartle gets a first-hand look at one of them at the 2018 SHOT Show in Las Vegas and the gun in question is a real gem. Gun Digest’s Editor-in-Chief combs over a decked out 1911 Series Pro Model, tinkered to perfection and pretty enough to make the hardest-hearted gun cynic drool. With hand fitted everything, an in-house Black T finish, not a machining mark detectable and each of the front-strap checkering gone over with a loop, it’s nearly enough to make John Browning blush. Little wonder, as Springfield’s Jeremy Sides proudly points out, this is among the most popular guns customers request of the shop.
Striking as the spotlighted Pro Model is, the results are of little surprise given what Springfield boasts in the way of gunsmiths. In all, 12 craftsmen man the company’s custom shop and, by Sides’ estimations, put 200-years of firearms expertise at a customer’s beck and call. Given the money any tailor-made gun demands that's peace of mind the job is going to get done right and down to the smallest detail.
Springfield’s custom shop has been quiet in its abilities overall, but it more than appears to have plenty to crow about.
If you’re having trouble finding factory ammunition or brass for rifles chambered in obscure or obsolete cartridges, don’t fret: You can make your own.
Thinking straight about obsolete cartridges:
With a good working knowledge of converting cartridges, a world of old guns in obscure calibers is opened.
An indispensable tool for the process is John J. Donnelly’s The Handloader’s Manual of Cartridge Conversions.
The process can be as complex as removing a belt from a magnum cartridge.
But it can be as simple as reducing a cartridge’s length and resizing its neck.
Reloaders shouldn’t be shy, contact reloading companies — they are invaluable resources.
On more complex, obscure projects you may need to invest in forming dies.
What do you do when you find that old rifle — sitting in the dusty corner of the gun shop, unloved, unwanted — that simply has your name written all over it, but it’s chambered for an obscure or obsolete cartridge? Why, you buy it of course! And if needs be, you make the ammunition yourself.
There have been several instances where this course of action has been warranted; there are some times when loaded ammunition — or even component ammunition — is simply not readily available.
The .30-.338 Magnum, created from new 7mm Remington Magnum brass, with one pass through a resizing die.
The transformation of one cartridge case to another can be as simple or complex as your selection of tools will allow, but quite often making one cartridge from another will only require your reloading tools. A case trimmer can and will cut a cartridge down considerably, and a full-length resizing die can change the diameter of a case mouth, to a certain degree. But the first stop on your tour should be a particular book that warrants a place in every reloader’s library: John J. Donnelly’s The Handloader’s Manual of Cartridge Conversions.
It’s thick and largely technical, but it can and will be invaluable to those needing to create ammunition for a centerfire rifle when component brass isn’t available. My copy is more than 30 years old, and some of the reloading tools mentioned might be considered antiques these days, but the principles are still completely relevant. It makes an excellent full-service reference guide for the handloader, even if just in a learning capacity.
I’ve used it to create that which I could not purchase, and it’s worked out just fine. Now, while the book contains instructions on some of the more radical transformations, such as removing the belt from the Holland & Holland family of cases or reducing the diameter of a cartridge’s rim, I have yet to need to perform those operations; my own transformations have been less complicated, yet they filled the need in the same manner.
An Easy Example
My colleague and good friend Craig Boddington called me one day to inform me that he was having a problem with a rifle he had just acquired. Craig said the barrel was marked .30-338 Magnum, and while that is — in essence — the definition of the .308 Norma Magnum, the chamber wouldn’t handle the Norma factory ammunition.
(Above) .318 Westley Richards ammunition, created from .30-06 brass, driving a 250-grain Woodleigh roundnose at 2,475 fps. The conversion was simple, and the rifle shoots exceptionally well.
So, I delved into the matter a bit more and found that after the .338 Winchester Magnum was released, yet before the .308 Norma Magnum was unveiled, wildcatters simply necked down the .338 case to hold .308-inch diameter bullets and maintain the same shoulder angle and datum line. There is a dimensional difference of a few thousandths between the two designs, explaining why Craig couldn’t close the bolt.
I made a call to Redding Reloading and found that — miraculously — they had a set of dies available for the wildcat. Because it maintained the same dimensions as both the .338 and 7mm Remington Magnum, either would be a suitable candidate for surgery. I decided it would be easier to neck up than to neck down and settled on new 7mm Rem. Mag. brass.
One run through the full-length resizing die — equipped with a tapered expander ball – and I was in business. Datum line was maintained, case length was just a few thousandths below maximum (a bit of length was lost in the stretching process) and the inside of the necks didn’t need to be turned. Loading for the rifle blindly, Craig reported that it gave him good velocities and 1 ¼ MOA accuracy (from a low-powered vintage scope), but most importantly, it was safe in the rifle with no pressure signs.
A More Involved Project
My own rifle was a bit of a different story, requiring some trimming and reworking to bring it to life. I have always wanted a .318 Westley Richards, yet finances dictated that the purchase of a genuine vintage rifle would see me sleeping on the couch.
A 7mm Remington Magnum case (L), and a converted .30-338 Magnum case (R), made with one pass through a Redding resizing die.
Instead, I embarked on a custom rifle build, giving new life to a WWI Gew. 98 Mauser — re-barreling it with a Kreiger .318 WR barrel. The rifle came out just fine, with the appointments I wanted. One little issue: The only available factory ammunition is very expensive, approaching and in some instances exceeding 10 dollars per round. Being a handloader, I thumbed through the aforementioned Manual of Cartridge Conversions and confirmed my assumptions: .318 Westley Richards cases can be easily made from plentiful .30-06 Springfield brass.
Step No. 1 was to trim the .30-06 brass from 2.494 inches down to 2.370 inches, and for that I used a good, piloted trimmer. Once cut to proper length, I cleaned up the case mouth — which was now square and rough from trimming — giving it a good chamfer and deburring.
Step No. 2 was applying a liberal dose of Imperial Sizing Wax along the base of the case, and Imperial Dry Neck Lube at the case mouth; one pass through the resizing die resulted in perfectly formed .318 Westley Richards brass.
The case mouth has been expanded from .308 inch to .330 inch, and once cleaned up, they can be used without the need to fire-form. Now, the true case head dimension of the .318 Westley Richards is 0.468 inch vs. the .30-06’s 0.473 inch, so to be completely transformed, a rim turning might be in order, but my rifle began life as an 8×57 Mauser, which shares the 06 case head.
Therefore, the bolt face and cartridge case head are completely compatible. When I choose to use actual .318 Westley Brass — a rarity sometimes available from Bertram — the 0.008 inch in case head diameter won’t make a bit of difference.
When Forming Dies Are Needed
These two examples are relatively simple solutions to the need for brass that is either unavailable or ridiculously expensive. The more radical transformations might require the use of forming dies — which will work the brass up or down in small increments — and brass annealing. Cases like the 6.5 Remington Magnum — capable of being made from .350 Remington Magnum brass or, in extreme cases, from .300 H&H brass — should see the use of a forming die in order to radically change the diameter of the case mouth. The same could be said for creating .35 Whelen brass from .30-06 cases; though, I’ve seen it done in a single step, albeit with varying degrees of success.
Trimming .30-06 brass to proper length to create the .318 Westley Richards cartridges.
The .475 Turnbull — that lever-action gem that Doug Turnbull designed for the 1886 Winchester — is based upon the .348 Winchester case, and it will definitely require forming dies. There are so many designs based upon the .30-06, .308 Winchester or the belted .375 H&H case that many different cartridges can be made from this trio alone. Some of the obscure rimmed cartridges will require a bit more creativity, but with the Cartridge Conversion book, a good handloader can get the job done.
If the change is extreme, annealing your cases will prevent premature cracking and splitting by keeping the brass soft and pliable; annealing will also help to keep any brass that must be fire-formed in working order for as long as possible. The annealing process is not extremely technical, but that’s best kept for another conversation …
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
The biggest segment of the firearms market is that of concealed carry handguns. In recent years, the number of ordinary citizens who carry a handgun as everyday practice has expanded almost exponentially. Not only are more people carrying, but people who never previously considered firearms ownership are now committed concealed carry citizens.
The result of this paradigm swing is a booming market for effective concealable guns, and the industry has done an admirable job of filling that niche. At one time the choices for concealable handguns were small revolvers, pocket-sized .25s and somewhat antiquated .380s. Now we have reliable 9mm semi-autos that weigh only a few ounces more than those diminutive, awkward and underpowered .25s.
It’s a fact that in today’s market, it’s harder to find a bad handgun than a good one. Polymer frames, modern manufacturing techniques and an industry that pays attention to the market have allowed lots of good choices to those who’ve decided to take an active part in the defense of themselves and those they love. We now have so many excellent designs that the current effort is to improve and refine those excellent designs.
S&W M&P Shield M2.0
Clearly the most popular concealed carry handgun in America by sales is the Smith and Wesson Shield. It’s affordable, reliable, compact and chambered for the most popular self-defense calibers. It’s offered both with and without a manual safety to accommodate both schools of thought. As an overwhelming success, it’s no wonder Smith and Wesson has upgraded it with the same 2.0 features as the double-stacked M&P series.
I don’t subscribe to the mindset that defensive handguns should have light and crisp triggers, but it’s important that the trigger be both safe and manageable. The common complaint with the earlier Shield was a less-than-precise trigger with an indistinct reset. The 2.0 series has rectified the issue of trigger reset. It’s now much more positive and tactile with the added bonus of a crisper and more defined break. Add the much improved grip surfaces and already excellent sights and you have a defensive handgun that fits almost every need. With two magazines, MSRP is $479 and $649 with the Crimson Trace Laserguard Pro laser/light option.
Springfield Armory XDs Mod.2 .45
Since its inception, the Springfield Armory XD series of pistols built in Croatia has had a very strong following. The single-stack compact XDs series has found favor with concealed carry citizens because it’s easy to conceal and easy to shoot well. I particularly like the grip safety. There’s a massive difference of opinion on whether defensive guns should have manual or passive safeties, and the passive grip safety on the XD series is almost unique in polymer striker-fired pistols.
The new XDs Mod.2 extends the line, incorporating the refinements of the Mod.2 series with the power and penetration of the revered .45 ACP round. The undercut trigger guard and improved grip shape allow the shooter to grip higher, meaning better recoil control, and that’s augmented with the upgraded Grip Zone grip texturing.
The sights have been improved as well with the addition of a tritium front sight and a serrated U-notch rear sight that allows for using the front of the rear sight to rack the slide against a solid object. The trigger is also enhanced for a shorter reset. It comes with two magazines, one flush-fit five-round mag for concealability and a six-round backup magazine. The overall weight is 21.5 ounces with the flush magazine, and MSRP is $593.
Bond Arms Bullpup 9
Certainly, the most innovative new concealed carry handgun, and probably the most unconventional handgun in several years, is the Bond Arms Bullpup 9. It’s based on the Boberg XR9-S, an innovative but somewhat expensive and problematic pistol developed in 2003. In function, the Bullpup 9 is a remarkable departure from conventional semi-automatic pistols in that the magazine feeds from the rear instead of the front. The system uses a rotary barrel lockup with the barrel rotating on a cam similar to that of an AR-15 rifle bolt inside the bolt carrier.
The pistol feeds from a magazine located below the chamber in the barrel, with the round coming from the magazine much like a tubular fed firearm. Instead of the magazine spring pushing the round backward, there are a pair of tongs similar to a conventional extractor that strip the magazine rearward, and a lifter then positions it for the slide to carry the round into the chamber as the recoil spring brings it back into battery.
The obvious advantage of this is the short overall length in relation to barrel length. For example, a 3.3-inch barreled Springfield Armory XDs has an overall length of 6.3 inches and the Bullpup 9, with a barrel length of 3.35 inches has an overall length of just 5.1 inches. Another advantage of the Bullpup 9 is an extremely light operating spring. As the slide pulls the round rearward out of the magazine, it creates resistance to the slide’s travel. This additional resistance to the slide allows the use of a much lighter spring than would be normal for the weight of the slide in a 9mm pistol. The result is a slide that’s remarkably easy to cycle, which is an important issue for users with lower hand strength.
With a weight of less than 19 ounces and a thin profile, the Bullpup 9 is an attractive option for concealed carry. The trigger system is double-action-only, providing second-strike capability. Sights are dovetailed three-dot; grips are engraved laminated rosewood. It comes with two magazines and has an MSRP of $977.
Springfield Armory .380 911
One of the most respected and successful handgun designs has been the 1911. In recent years there have been miniaturized versions of the 1911 design, and they’ve found favor with concealed carry citizens. Springfield Armory now has its own version of a reduced 1911 in .380 ACP. The 911 uses a T6 aluminum frame with a Black Nitride or stainless 416 slide. Grips are G10 with texturing on the front strap and mainspring housing.
The ambidextrous safety differs from the 1911 design in that it allows racking the slide to charge the chamber while the safety is engaged. The single-action trigger combined with a G10 Hogue trigger shoe allows a light and crisp trigger break. Sights are a green tritium front sight inside a yellow luminescent circle and a tactical rack rear sight with green tritium inside of white luminescent circles. It comes with a six-round flush magazine and an extended seven-round magazine for backup. MSRP is $599 for the standard version and $789 with an integrated green Viridian grip laser.
Ruger EC9s
While all the above have been performance enhancements to existing models, Ruger’s EC9s is an economical enhancement. The Ruger LC9 went through an upgrade in 2011 with the introduction of the LC9s, an enhanced version that featured a striker-fired instead of a hammer-fired action and had a much better trigger. The LC9s has eclipsed the earlier version, and it’s been dropped from the catalog. While the standard LC9s has an MSRP of $449, the EC9s has an MSRP of $299.
Primarily, besides the price, the difference between the EC9s and the LC9s is the sights. In the original version, the sights were dovetailed into the slide and the EC9s has sights that are integral to the slide. Currently, the Ruger website no longer shows the standard LC9s but lists a collection of standard guns with different color schemes specific to different distributors.
S&W M&P9 M2.0
Smith and Wesson’s M&P line has been extremely successful and the 2.0 upgrade makes the series even better. Recently, the company introduced the M2.0 Compact, bringing functional, much-needed upgrades to an already excellent firearm. Depending on your carry method, the M&P9 might be a bit large for daily concealability, but it’s certainly a viable option if it fits your lifestyle.
The improvements in the M2.0 series corrected issues that kept a good pistol from being an exceptional pistol. The ability to properly grip a pistol increases both first-shot effectiveness and speed in delivering fast follow-up shots, and the new aggressive texturing on the grip is a vast improvement. Competitive shooters who use the M&P pistols universally modify their guns to make them easier to grip by stippling or adding aggressive panels. The new grip surface negates that need. The other complaint with the M&P line has been in the trigger reset, and that’s also been corrected with the bonus of a lighter pull weight and crisper break. Four interchangeable inserts make it possible to fit any hand. MSRP is $569.
Sig Sauer P365
There’s a hot market for concealable 9mm pistols, and recently there have been two schools of thought: One school of thought is that a slim and lightweight gun is a better choice because of comfort and concealability; the other places more importance on magazine capacity. Both camps have reasonable reasons for their preference, but both will agree the other’s position is realistic.
Just revealed at SHOT Show is the Sig P365, a gun that reasonably will accommodate both groups. With a slight trade-off in width, the P365 provides 10-shot capacity with a 1.06-inch width and a weight of just 17.8 ounces. Described by Sig as a Micro Compact, it’s a polymer-framed, striker-fired gun that easily fits into the standard for small 9mm pistols. It has a stainless-steel, Nitron-finished slide and barrel and three-dot Tritium sights. Grips are interchangeable for better purchase and upgradable for a laser.
The trick is in a magazine that’s tapered, wider at the bottom and tapering off to a single-stack magazine width. Magazines are available flush and with an extended floor plate to provide a full grip. It also comes with a 12-round magazine for backup. MSRP is in line with other compact nines at $599.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the Concealed Carry 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
The shooting hand's thumb is often ignored, but where it's placed is as important as the trigger finger.
Where should your strong hand's thumb go?
Often forgotten, the shooting hand's thumb placement is as important as the trigger finger's indexing.
On guns with thumb safeties, it should rest on top of the safety to reduce risk of engagement.
Upon holstering, you should reverse the thumb's position to engage the safety.
To prevent a striker-fired handgun from coming out of battery when holstering, the thumb should be on the rear of the slide.
Rightly so, there’s a lot of discussion about what you should do with your trigger finger when you’re shooting or not shooting. However, we rarely hear talk about what you should do with your thumb — the one on your shooting hand. Its positioning is just as important.
When firing a handgun with a manual thumb safety, rest your thumb on top of the safety.
If you’re shooting a handgun with a thumb safety, your thumb should be resting on top of the safety while you’re shooting. This circumvents the possibility of the safety being inadvertently engaged. I say resting because pressure can interfere with shot placement.
When you holster a handgun with a thumb safety that locks the slide — like on a 1911 or Browning Hi Power — your thumb should be under the safety, applying pressure up. This will most likely prevent you from negligently shooting yourself, should you be stupid enough to leave your finger on the trigger while holstering.
For striker-fired handguns without a slide locking safety, place it — with pressure — on the rear of the slide as you holster. This prevents the slide from coming out of battery as the gun meets holster resistance. I’ve seen striker-fired handguns that can become jammed up due to slide movement when holstering, and I’ve also seen some that can be pushed out of batter … and remain that way even after they’ve been drawn.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
The .22 LR is among the most popular rounds ever devised. But is the rimfire a wise choice for self-defense?
Consideration concerning a self-defense .22 LR:
To stop an attack, an assailant must change their mind or involuntarily surrender.
Involuntary surrender is elicited in four ways: nervous system damage, structural damage, involuntary collapse and death.
The .22 will most certainly cause pain, which can be decisive in stopping an attack.
Given .22s are easier to shoot, they can deliver this pain multiple times.
Most concealable guns, regardless of caliber, do not cause involuntary surrender.
While it might not be the top choice, a .22 is better for self defense than no gun at all.
The gun you carry is really only a small part of an overall self-defense plan. It’s the gun guys who obsess over the type of gun you carry the most. Truth is, if you go about your life in the proper readiness condition, and exercise due caution when necessary, the chances of actually employing a gun in a self-defense situation are small. Even smaller is the need to actually shoot that gun once you introduce it into a situation. Still, when you really need a gun, nothing else will do … and a .22 LR is certainly better than no gun at all.
Ballistically, these three .22 LR loads performed well, even out of this sub-compact semi-auto. However, from a terminal ballistics standpoint, the internal damage they are capable of causing is minimal.
What we are concerned with here is if a gun chambered for the .22 Long Rifle is advisable or sufficient for life-saving duties. Most will immediately tell you it’s not. Some will allow its use for the elderly, poorly trained or those weak of arm and hand.
I’ve often thought this odd. If a .22 is good for those folks, how is it not good for everyone else? It’s kind of like the old deer rifle cliché where a lesser cartridge is considered allowable for kids or those of a small stature. Um … if a kid can use a rifle to kill a deer, shouldn’t a big ol’ boy be able to kill a deer with the same gun?
Let’s cut through all the preconceived notions and expert opinions and take an objective look at the .22 LR for personal protection from a pure ballistics standpoint. But first, let’s acknowledge the fact that just having a gun is sometimes enough. As a police officer, I responded to many calls where a citizen had pointed a gun at a bad guy, and that was all it took to thwart the attack. This proves that just having a gun might be more important than what type of gun it is, or even if it’s loaded.
This segmented .22 LR bullet only penetrated about 6 inches. While it might be great for rodents and such, it’s not so much for self-defense.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m not suggesting you use an unloaded gun to protect yourself; I’m just stating facts. Nobody likes to have a gun pointed at them, and fewer folks are willing to risk getting shot.
Thing is, however, you might have to shoot. Sometimes a shot fired — even if it hits nothing — is all that’s needed to stop an assault. Sometimes, when a bad guy gets hit — anywhere, with any bullet — that’s also enough to end hostilities. When we get down to whether your gun can instantly incapacitate a felon, we’re dealing with a last case and least likely, worst-case scenario.
The Four Fight Stoppers
Let’s consider the ways a bullet from a handgun can bring about instant incapacitation. Wounds that hurt can bring about voluntary surrender or, most often, a change of mind. But, what I’m talking about are wounds that bring about an involuntary physiological response. This can happen in one of four ways.
When it comes to the .22 LR, penetration is more important than expansion. Even fully expanded, a .22 LR bullet is not as big as a bullet from a 9mm.
1. Damage to the central nervous system — a bullet to the brain — generally brings about instant collapse, and often death. No, not just a head shot; sometimes a headshot can lead to only superficial wounds.
2. Support structure damage will likely put a human on the ground. A bullet that breaks the pelvic support or severs the spine can put a fiend down either due to bone or nerve damage. But, just because they’re down doesn’t mean they’re not dangerous, especially if they have a gun, too.
3. Involuntary collapse might be the most hopeful outcome of a shot you place on an attacker. The problem is we don’t completely understand why involuntary collapse occurs. It could just be the body’s reaction to pain, a subconscious or neurological reaction. Either way, it’s unpredictable and not something to rely on.
4. Death. Death has a way of making bad guys permanently not bad anymore. Death from a bullet wound takes time. It has to cause hemorrhaging, and the body has to lose enough blood to deprive the brain of activity. On the short side, this could take maybe 10 to 20 seconds, on the long side, 10 to 20 minutes.
Getting The Job Done
This MP5 clone, chambered for the .22 LR, offers high reliability and a high rate of fire. It’s also compact and light enough that anyone in your home can handle it.
So the ballistic question is: How effective can a .22 LR be at causing one of these four reactions and ultimately saving your life? The FBI, in its infinite wisdom, specifies a bullet from a handgun should deliver at least 12 inches of penetration to be considered suitable for use by their field agents.
Can a .22 LR deliver 12 inches of penetration from a handgun or a rifle? I tested four different loads to find out. One of those four loads, the CCI 40-grain Velocitor hollow-point achieved that benchmark out of a rifle with a 16-inch barrel, and out of handguns with a 2.4- and a 5-inch barrel. Penetration depths were 14.5, 15 and 12 inches, respectively.
Another higher velocity load — the CCI Stinger — penetrated between 8 and 10 inches from the same firearms. CCI’s 32- and 40-grain segmented hollow-point loads only penetrated between 5 and 10 inches. However, the segmented hollow-point splits into three projectiles during penetration, so the wound cavity — though shallow — is three-pronged in its approach.
(Above) A .22 shot shell is not very powerful and will likely not cycle the action of a semi-auto firearm. However, at 6 feet it will deliver a potentially fight-stopping — painful, if not permanent — wound.
Essentially, if penetration is your goal, you’ll want to select medium- to high-velocity 40-grain bullets for the .22 Long Rifle. But, that might not be your best option, and/or you might have an aversion to potentially killing another human. After all, when you use a handgun to stop a violent attack, your goal is to stop the attack. Your desire to do anything beyond that would be considered with malice, and that has a way of sending folks to the big house — for a long time. That’s why devices such as pepper spray and stun guns are so popular, and they’re effective because they cause pain.
Imagine shooting an attacker in the face with a load of .22 shot from a handgun. At a distance of about 6 feet, this load, when applied to the eyes and smile of a goblin, has a very small chance of being lethal, but a very high chance of delivering a high dose of pain and temporary if not permanent blindness. Any of the three outcomes should suffice to bring about that change of mind or the involuntary surrender you’re looking for.
For that matter, imagine shooting an attacker in the face with any .22 LR load. It might not be the same as a bullet from a .357 Mag., but it will hurt. By golly it will hurt worse than a sting from a ball-faced hornet! Could that potentially make the bad guy even “badder” or madder? Yep, for sure. But, there are things outside of ballistics to consider.
All four of these .22 LR loads were tested in ordnance gelatin. The results seem to suggest that standard or high-velocity 40-grain loads are the best option for personal protection.
Handguns or rifles chambered for the .22 LR have almost non-existent recoil, and most people find them easier to shoot more accurately and faster. You can fire 10 accurate shots from a semi-automatic .22 pistol or rifle in about the same time you can fire five or six shots from a centerfire handgun or rifle. In other words, you could shoot a bad guy nearly twice as many times, in the same amount of time, using a .22 LR as you could with a 9mm handgun or rifle.
Parting Shots
So where does all of this leave us? With regard to defensive handguns most often carried for personal protection, they’re mostly pain delivery devices. In other words, your best bet when shooting a handgun to save your life is that it will cause enough pain to make the attacker stop attacking. It’s just a matter of ballistic fact that concealable handguns that can be comfortably carried long term, are just not that effective at causing instant incapacitation. They do, however, perform rather well when it comes to convincing someone to cease and desist hostilities.
A .22 Long Rifle handgun would not be my first choice when it comes to an every day carry, personal protection handgun. Your ability to inflict pain increases with caliber and is improved with the modern high-tech bullets now available for cartridges such as the .380, 9mm, .40 S&W and .45 Auto.
If you do not feel comfortable with a .22 LR for self-defense, don’t overlook how a rimfire conversion kit, like this one from Sig, can help you practice with your defensive handgun at a much-reduced cost.
At the same time, I’d rather have a .22 LR handgun for personal protection than I would a stun gun — which requires you to be very close — or pepper spray — which is a bit dependent on the wind blowing the right direction. After all, there’s a good chance when I point that .22 LR handgun at the bad guy, he’s going to do what most bad guys do when a gun gets pointed at a human, and that’s — at least momentarily — stop whatever they’re doing. Few things are a better attention getter.
Let me leave you with this food for thought: The gun in my closet is an S&W M&P15-22. It’s loaded with a full magazine of CCI Velocitors, has a compact reflex sight and a Crimson Trace light/laser combination fore-grip. Everyone in my home, from the 10-year-old up, can operate this little carbine. And, with it they’re capable of delivering accurate fire, at a fast pace, across any room in my house, and even out to the fence that surrounds it. (It’s also great for rabid foxes — we’ve had two at my house — and the raccoons that seem to think my garbage cans are their own personal buffet.)
A .22 LR might not be the best choice for personal protection, but that does not mean it cannot be a good one.
The Cobalt Kinetics Twenty-Seven Series brings traditional rifle ergonomics to the world of the AR-15.
How the Twenty-Seven Series marries the old and the new:
Cobalt Kinetics Twenty-Seven series ARs are configured to mimic traditional semi-autos and bolt-action ergonomics.
The design also makes them California compliant, skirting many of the strict California gun regulations.
There are four sub-models in the Twenty-Seven series: Sentry, Ranger, Hunter and Expert.
The available calibers, depending on model, are: 5.56 NATO, .223 Wylde, .224 Valkyrie and 6.5 Grendel.
Cobalt Kinetics looks to expand the Twenty-Seven concept to its larger-caliber XL line.
Perhaps more so than any other rifle system ever conceived, the AR-15 is eminently configurable. And therein lies the appeal: Searching for a fast-handling tactical carbine or a heavy-barreled long-range shooter? The king of black rifles has it covered on both counts and everywhere between. But, Cobalt Kinetics has done something drastic with the Twenty-Seven Series.
Cobalt Kinetics 27 Sentry
That said, even for the protean design, Cobalt Kinetics’ new Twenty-Seven series rifles are a drastic departure from the norm. Drawing upon more traditional rifle designs, the semi-automatics shoulder and handle more like today’s bolt-action rifles, but they still cycle like an AR.
“We’ve been talking about this at Cobalt for a long time … to create a more traditional rifle that uses modern components to improve performance,” Vice President of Cobalt Kinetics Skylar Stewart said in a press release. “We have had a lot of requests for a semi-automatic rifle more suited for hunters and other sportsmen. I don’t like to compare it to other AR-15s. It does use many of the internal components of the AR-15, but we believe that it’s a step up from the old bolt-action rifle.”
Cobalt Kinetics 27 Ranger
The Twenty-Seven series may be a throwback with a modern twist, but perhaps, more importantly, it's something else — California Compliant (at least for the time being). And while the company insists the rifles aren’t purely tailored for less enlightened corners of the country, it’s willing to custom configure one to meet local laws. Regardless of locale and legislation, draconian or otherwise, the Utah gunmaker’s Twenty-Seven series puts some interesting twists on the AR.
The grip is angled to avoid the dread definition “pistol,” yet its geometry remains slim enough to allow a comfortable purchase. This feature also streamlines the overall design of the Twenty-Seven series rifles, making, in theory, a rifle easier to transport, given it fits in any normal sized case or scabbard. And Cobalt Kinetics lowered the trigger by .150 inches from the typical AR, giving shooters the ability to naturally position their finger.
Cobalt Kinetics 27 Hunter
Presently, Cobalt Kinetics offers four sub-models in the Twenty-Seven Series: Sentry, Ranger, Hunter and Expert. The Sentry and Ranger are offered in 5.56 NATO; the Hunter in .223 Wylde, .224 Valkyrie and 6.5 Grendel; and the Expert in .223 Wylde. Each sub-model is also available in entry-level and improved configurations, essentially the option for upgraded triggers, controls, bolt-carrier groups and other parts.
Cobalt Kinetics appears ambitious about the Twenty-Seven series potential and it might not be the last traditionally configured AR to roll out of its factory. The company plans to adapt the design to its larger-framed and caliber XL line, opening up the possibilities for medium and big game hunters.
Cobalt Kinetics 27 Expert
Presently, the price for the Twenty-Seven series ranges from $1,765 for the entry-level Sentry to $3,760 decked out Expert.
For more information about the Cobalt Kinetics Twenty-Seven series, check out: www.cobaltkinetics.com
The iconic R. Lee “Gunny” Ermey passed on Sunday. Modern Shooter looks back on the affable and down-to-earth Marine, actor and gun-rights advocate.
The Marine Corps, gun world and movies lost a good friend in the passing of R. Lee Ermey Sunday morning. The Vietnam Veteran, former Marine Drill Instructor and actor died at the age of 74 from complications due to pneumonia.
Ermey is perhaps best known for portraying Gunnery Sergeant Hartman in Stanley Kubrick’s “Full Metal Jacket,” a role that earned him a Golden Globe nomination. Ermey's personal background brought a level of authenticity and intensity to the Hartman character and helped catapult the movie to icon status. Ermey's lines from the first half of the movie might very well be the most quoted from any war flick.
An honorary Gunnery Sergeant in real life, Ermey had a thriving acting career outside of “Full Metal Jacket,” playing parts in more than 70 films. Additionally, he was a mainstay on T.V., making more than 200 episodes of ‘GunnyTime' for the Outdoor Channel, as well as a number of other programs and commercials over the years.
Ermey was also a plain and outspoken advocate for the U.S. Military, firearms and the Second Amendment, and he was a regular superstar as such venues as the SHOT Show. He rarely diced words when speaking about America's right to keep and bare arms, and actively worked as an NRA board member to protect and advance these civil liberties.
While Ermey's characters oftentimes came off as gruff even borderline hair-curling, the man himself was down-to-earth and downright affable in person. Modern Shooter was lucky enough to shoot the breeze with the Gunny about 3 years back and got a first-hand taste his friendliness, not to mention straight shooting on any topic that came up — getting into movies, hunting deer as a boy in Kansas, our American freedoms and his beloved (and never cleaned) .45 GAP.
Federal Premium's new small-bore, long-range cartridge, the .224 Valkyrie, has received final approval by SAAMI and its specifications have been published.
The .224 Valkyrie received final approval by SAAMI as a standardize cartridge.
It is one of five new cartridges approved in the past year, all long-range specialists.
The others include: 6mm Creedmoor, 20 Nosler, 22 Nosler and 24 Nosler.
From SAAMI specs, the .224 Valkyrie can push a 60-gr bullet 3,300 fps.
It is official! Federal Premium’s hot-rock .224 Valkyrie is a cartridge. Or more precisely, it is a recognized cartridge by the powers that be within the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturer’s Institute.
SAAMI, as it is better known, published the approved .224 Valkyrie specifications on its website at the end of March making it freely available to shooters and manufacturers alike. The small-bore cartridge designed for long-range work and optimized for use out of AR-style rifles was initially approved in January at the 2018 SHOT Show in Las Vegas.
“It’s thrilling to have brought the world’s best MSR 15 cartridge to market. We’re proud and excited about our new cartridge, and we deeply appreciate SAAMI’s support with this launch,” said Federal Premium Ammunition President Jason Vanderbrink in a press release. “SAAMI’s approval of the cartridge was a crucial step in legitimizing it within the industry. Their work creates standards for the cartridge, increasing safety, interchangeability, reliability and quality for the dozens of firearm manufacturers currently building rifles in our 224 Valkyrie.”
The .224 Valkyrie headlines five new SAAMI approved cartridges in a little over a year, each a riff off a common theme — long-range shooting. In addition to Federal’s offering, newcomers to standardization include the 6mm Creedmoor, 20 Nosler, 22 Nosler and 24 Nosler. Each of these received approval in 2017, though in the case of the 20 and 24 Nosler cartridges do not yet exist — at least for public consumption.
For those curious about the .224 Valkyrie or any other standardized cartridge for that matter, SAAMI allows free access to its technical data and drawings. The .224 Valkyrie itself is listed with a Maximum Average Pressure (MAP) of 55,000 psi on the spec sheet (available here) and produced the following muzzle velocities during testing:
60-gr @ 3,300 fps
75-gr @ 3,000 fps
90-gr @ 2,700 fps
SAAMI was founded in 1926 at the request of the federal government and is tasked with creating and publishing industry standards for safety, interchangeability, reliability and quality, as well as coordinating technical data.
Federal Premium’s .224 Valkyrie is a based on the 6.8 SPC case necked down to 22 caliber. From the company’s literature, which has been free-flowing since fall 2017, the cartridge is capable of impressive performance, including maintaining supersonic flight past 1,300 yards. Federal touts it as being equal to the vaunted 6.5 Creedmoor, only with less recoil and more economical to shoot. Already, there are a number of gunmakers offering .224 Valkyrie rifles, including Savage and CMMG.
Presently, Federal offers four .224 Valkyrie loads: 90-grain Gold Medal Sierra MatchKing, 60-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip Varmint, 90-grain Fusion MSR and 75-grain American Eagle TMJ.
There’s something special about shooting recreations of classic AR designs, and acquiring one or devising your own isn’t as hard as it might seem.
How to get a classic AR in your hands:
Having been around now for over 50 years, shooters are becoming more interested in classic AR designs.
Counterintuitively, in the AR world, Reto means original, vintage means reproduction.
There are three routes into classic ARs: buying an original, buying a reproduction or building your own.
A number of online forums and books document AR developments and prove vital resources in a build.
It’s important not to get caught up in recreating every detail in a build.
First off it’s a semi-auto version of the original; secondly, original parts cost a pretty penny.
The proper balance is somewhere between authenticity and money spent.
It’s hard to believe the AR-15 has been around for over 50 years. Colt began selling the AR-15 — a semi auto version of the M16 was created for the civilian and law enforcement markets — in the mid sixties. Since that time, the AR has evolved, following suit with the different versions of the M16. The “Black Rifle” is now old enough that it qualifies for the terms vintage and retro, and these older versions of the AR have developed a large following.
These are three of my builds. They look like the originals, but are nowhere near exact. I put them together how I wanted, and I love to shoot them. They are lightweight, reliable and fun on the range.
In the art and design world, vintage means an original; retro means a reproduction made to resemble the original. In the AR world, these terms are flipped. This is due to forum listings on the website AR15.com. The forum had a “Retro” category, which mainly focused on Colt’s 600 series rifles and carbines — think Vietnam. For discussion on the 700 Colts — the type weapons fielded in Desert Storm — they formed a “Vintage” category to separate the two styles.
Then you have “Fantasy” rifles/carbines, which use military-type parts but are configured in a way that never came from the factory. But, this doesn’t mean these weren’t used in the field. My go-to AR guy is Matt Weathers, a law enforcement officer and instructor for Shootrite. His dad was 5th SFG (Special Forces Group) and a member of SOG, a special operations unit that served in Vietnam. They carried Colt XM177E2s, an issued carbine with an 11½-inch barrel and collapsible stock. In order to make the carbines more reliable, troops put their upper assembly on a “rifle” lower, which has a fixed stock and a rifle-length buffer and spring. This configuration was never produced by Colt or officially issued, and yet there’s Matt’s dad in the pictures carrying it in the field. (He also used det cord for a sling.)
Getting Into A Classic
There are three options to go old school with an AR. You can buy an original. The problem with this is that a lot of the ARs we want to have and shoot were never produced in semi-auto versions, so the offerings are a little slim. You can buy new ARs that look like originals. Colt, Troy and Brownells build great rifles and carbines based on the earlier models and at affordable prices. Or, you can build your own, using old and/or new parts. Today, if you want an older model AR, there’s no reason not to have one.
I’ve put together several ARs to mimic the old versions. Early on I learned that assembling the “perfect” reproduction is almost impossible, a matter of luck or just too expensive. In the early days, Colt was building a lot of weapons. Colt was improving the designs as they went; changes were being made rapidly and they were using a lot of different contractors to produce parts. Take the grip as an example. For early model Colts, there are dozens of different grips that vary in exact size, shape and markings. Knowing exactly what part goes with what AR can sometimes be difficult.
Luckily, you don’t have to be an expert. Trying to figure out what type part you need for a build, or have questions about parts you have? Forums like AR15.com and RetroBlackRifle.com are full of people who have spent years researching and documenting the AR’s history and the various parts used. The AR community is full of good people who will be willing and eager to help in your quest.
Another great source of info are the Black Rifle series of books published by Collector Grade Publications. These two volumes get into the gritty details of the rifle’s history and development. Volume I, by Stevens and Ezell, was published in 1987 and covers the beginning and early years of development. Black Rifle II, by Bartocci, picks up there, covering later versions of the weapon like the M-4. The Vickers Guide: AR-15 Volume I is another good read. While it’s not as technical as the Black Rifle books, it’s just as interesting, and contains outstanding photographs. There’s even one section entirely devoted to reproductions, with clones of significant and historical rifles and carbines.
Cost vs. Authenticity
Searching for parts is part of the fun of a build, especially with vintage/retro projects. Both of these reproductions — a rifle and carbine — are built exactly as the real ones would have been. With a mix of original parts and new parts machined to the old specs, you can assemble any type AR.
One word of caution on starting a build: Don’t get too caught up in all the details. Yes, I want an authentic AR, but it ain’t gonna be perfect. First off, it’s a semi-auto version of the real thing. Next, I’m not paying some of the prices that original parts are bringing. A pristine set of factory, original green furniture for an AR is going to cost you a few thousand dollars. Reproductions from Brownells will only be about eighty dollars. There are also outstanding shops like Retro Arms Works and NoDak Spud that recreate hard-to-find parts that match the factory, original specs.
With hot rods, speed is a question of money. How fast you go depends on how much you spend. The same can be said of authenticity and ARs. I’m all for authentic, but I’m not going to let that stand in the way of me having the type of AR I want. The retro/vintage thing is learning about the older weapons and having fun. You’re looking for the proper balance between “authentic” and the money you spend. It’s hard to have fun if you have to break the bank. Plus, all of my ARs end up seeing hard use. I don’t want to worry about scratching or breaking something costly and collectible.
Modern Sporting Rifles are cool. They are the pinnacle of design and function. But — given the choice — when it comes time to head to the range, I’m going to take one of my old school reproduction ARs. These are lightweight, simple and reliable weapons, the same type used in Vietnam, Desert Storm and Mogadishu. They feel good in the hand, are fun to shoot and help me connect to an earlier time and the heroic deeds of the brave soldiers who carried them.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 excellent concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
