We test out a Wilson Combat NULA Model 20 rifle and discuss how the company is continuing Melvin Forbes’ legacy.
In 1985, a West Virginia gunsmith named Melvin Forbes introduced the world to the lightest and most accurate bolt-action hunting rifle ever made. Not only was this rifle light and accurate, but it also earned the distinction of being the pound-for-pound most accurate rifle of all time. In 2022, the company Forbes started—New Ultra Light Arms/NULA—was purchased by Wilson Combat. It marked the end of a nearly 40-year dynasty of lightweight hunting rifles. But now Wilson Combat is continuing the legacy with a modernized version of Forbes’ famous rifle and carrying on the NULA name.
Top: Original NULA Model 20 with a 24-inch barrel. Bottom: Wilson Combat NULA Model 20 with a 20-inch barrel.
The Wilson Combat NULA
Forbes machined Original NULA rifles by hand. Wilson Combat NULA actions are CNC/EDM cut. Just like the originals, they’re cylindrical and slim at only 1.22 inches in diameter and made of 4140 steel. The bolt has two lugs and is CNC machined from 4340 barstock, and just like with the originals the bolt is only 0.585 inch in diameter. Perfectly sized and no larger than necessary. The bolt has a Sako-style extractor and a plunger ejector and is fitted with a swappable and grooved bolt knob that’s slightly oversized. There’s also a red “cocked” indicator visible at the rear of the bolt.
Unlike many modern bolt-action rifles, the bolt on the Wilson Combat NULA is—just like with the originals—no larger than it needs to be.
Timney made the triggers for the original NULAs, and Wilson Combat worked with Timney to adapt one of their Elite Hunter triggers to their NULA. Just as with the original, the safety—when placed on “safe”—locks the bolt handle down. Another change Wilson Combat made was to drill and tap the action for 8×40 screws as opposed to 6×40. But the action still accepts the same style of one-piece scope rings designed by Forbes and now made by Talley. They only weigh 1.5 ounces per set.
There’s a red “cocked” indicator on the bolt of the Wilson Combat NULA rifle.
Wilson Combat makes their own barrels from 416R stainless steel. They’re lean and trim and unusually tapered. As opposed to using set contours, Wilson Combat tapers barrels so they all have the same wall thickness at the muzzle. This shaves weight from the original NULA standard contoured Douglas barrels, and every caliber barrel has its unique contour. I know of no other manufacturer doing this. Threading at 5/8×24 is an option for all calibers and barrel lengths.
If you opt for a threaded muzzle on your Wilson Combat NULA Model 20, it’ll come with a thread protector.
The barreled action is placed in a pillar bedded AG Composites carbon-fiber stock that’s also fitted with a featherlight (2.6 ounce) hard anodized aluminum floorplate. The barrel is free-floated, and the stock is finished in one of two camo patterns or a speckled charcoal gray. Finally, a Limbsaver recoil pad is expertly fitted and complete, the stock weighs less than 25 ounces. A complete rifle—less scope rings—weighs only 5.17 pounds. Of course, weight will vary slightly depending on barrel length and cartridge. Just the other day I received a new Wilson Combat NULA in .358 Winchester, and with its 16.25-inch barrel, it weighs only 4.94 pounds.
Here you can see the pillar bedding used by AG Composites on the stock for the Wilson Combat NULA rifles.
The 7mm-08 is the third new NULA rifle from Wilson Combat I’ve thoroughly evaluated. The first two were a 6.5 Creedmoor and a .308 Winchester. All were tested with multiple hunting loads from a bench rest at 100 yards, and all three rifles averaged between 1.02 and 1.07 inches when every group fired was considered. This is noteworthy because when it comes to precision, most rifle reviews in gun magazines represent the evaluation of an example of one. It clearly demonstrates that you can expect MOA performance with any new NULA Model 20 rifle for five-shot groups, and less than that for three-shot groups. These rifles will shoot!
Wilson Combat Model 20 NULA. Photo credit: Wilson Combat
But more importantly for the hunter, these rifles handle well. The 20-inch barreled 7mm-08 balanced right at the front guard screw, which puts the weight right between your hands. This is ideal for a rifle that will be shot in field conditions, because it offers the best equilibrium between handling and shootability. Now, adding a suppressor will make the rifle a bit muzzle heavy, which isn’t ideal for shooting running game or snap shooting. But, if that’s the type of shooting you expect to do when hunting, you might want to consider the shorter 16.25-inch barrel option.
The addition of the hinged floorplate Wilson Combat chose to include on their version of the NULA Model 20 is a nice touch on the range and in the field. Thank goodness they didn’t opt for a detachable magazine, which I think is somewhat foolish and even a bad idea on any straight-up hunting rifle. The hinged floor plate makes unloading the rifle much faster, easier and safer than cycling all the loaded cartridges through the action.
The hinged floor plate is one of the modernizations Wilson Combat applied to the NULA rifle after acquiring the design from Melvin Forbes.
I can’t say I loved everything about the rifle. Though the ribbed bolt handle provided a solid grip for positive functioning, I prefer the round handle of the original. As for the stock, I think AG Composites currently make the best carbon-fiber stocks. However, I would’ve preferred Wilson Combat to have carried on with the hand-laid carbon-fiber/Kevlar stock Forbes pioneered. It was the lightest and most stable synthetic rifle stock ever created.
LOAD TESTED
VELOCITY
ENERGY
PRECISION
Hornady 139-grain SST American Whitetail
2,802
2,423
1.280
Nosler Trophy Grade 140-grain AccuBond
2,788
2,416
0.972
Lehigh Defense 142-grain Controlled Chaos
2,740
2,367
0.881
AVERAGE: 1.044
In the Field with the Wilson Combat NULA
I’ve hunted all over the world with original NULA rifles, and I’m carrying on that tradition with the Wilson Combat version. In early 2024, I took the Model 20 in 7mm-08 Remington to Texas on a Whitetail deer hunt. This was a hunt hosted by Trijicon, and I mounted a Trijicon AccuPoint 3-18X50 riflescope on the NULA in 30mm Talley rings. This was a high-end hunt; we set in fancy box blinds, and there was no walking and little hunting involved. On the third day, I took a nice buck, but it wasn’t much of a test of the rifle. However, the outfitter had a 600-yard range, and after my hunt, I proceeded to ring 8-inch steel plates from 100 out to 600 yards and never missed a shot.
Photographer/videographer Sabastian “Bat” Mann with a blesbok ram he took with the 7mm-08 Wilson Combat NULA.
In March of this year, I embarked on a six-week safari in Africa. During the first week, I was in the Eastern Cape with my wife. She used the Wilson Combat NULA in 7mm-08 to take a blue wildebeest, two black wildebeest, an impala, a warthog, a jackal and several rock hyraxes. She never missed, and even with the large Swarovski Z8i 2-16×50 P riflescope and a Silencer Central Banish Backcountry suppressor attached, the rifle was a joy to carry.
The author’s wife, Drema Mann, with her first jackal. It was taken with the 7mm-08 Wilson Combat NULA and a 142-grain Lehigh Defense Controlled Chaos bullet.
Several weeks later, my son joined me in the Northern Cape. He was there on a photography assignment but had a few days to hunt. He latched on to the NULA in 7mm-08, mostly because I think it was so similar to his original NULA in 6.5 Creedmoor. He took one blesbok ram on the other side of 300 yards, another at about half that distance and used the rifle to whack several warthogs during eradication operations.
As Good as the Best?
In 2021, I authored an article about Forbes’ custom NULA rifles for Gun Digest and proclaimed them the best bolt-action hunting rifles ever made. My opinion hasn’t changed. However, Wilson Combat’s purchase of New Ultra Light Arms brought the production of those rifles with their magical stocks to an end. The new NULA rifles are slightly modernized and very similar to the originals, and—very importantly—they’re $1,500 cheaper. Are they as good as the originals? I’d not go that far. But since the originals are no longer in production, with confidence, I’ll say the Wilson Combat NULA is now the best bolt-action hunting rifle in production.
Melvin Forbes at the workbench with one of his original NULA rifles.
Forbes often said his NULA rifles—the originals—were like his children and that the people who sent him money for them were just renting them, because they’d always be his. If Bill Wilson and Wilson Combat take that same approach with their modernized NULAs, they’ll do just fine at crafting the legendary rifle Forbes created.
Pros
Incredibly light and accurate
$1,500 less expensive than an original
Some useful modernizations like its hinged floorplate
Cons
The author preferred the original round bolt handle to Wilson Combat's ribbed version
Stock isn't quite as nice as what Forbes used on original NULA rifles
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
We discuss the different types of shooting supports and take a look at some of the best examples of each.
In 1997, Jeff Cooper published The Art of the Rifle. The book contains many lessons for riflemen but maybe the most important is the solid axiom: If you can get closer, get closer; if you can get steadier, get steadier. Both improve your chances for making an accurate shot, but sometimes getting closer is not an option. When that happens, getting steadier is the rule.
“Getting steadier” has generally meant assuming an intermediate position like kneeling, sitting or prone and using a shooting sling. However, sometimes that’s still not enough. What’s needed is a shooting support.
Shooting supports do not negate the need to follow the basic principles of marksmanship. They only provide a steadier shooting platform.
A shooting support can be almost anything, natural or man-made. A backpack, log or limb, and even a buddy can sometimes become a shooting support. Hunting in Idaho’s Frank Church Wilderness a few years back, I needed a shooting support, but nothing was available; the trees were too large to offer support. I ended up sticking my knife in the side of a tree and resting the rifle over it to make a long shot on a black bear. It worked, but there are better options, such as bipods, tripods and shooting sticks.
Shooting supports can be almost anything. Even a knife stuck in the side of a tree.
Shooting Supports Types
I classify shooting supports in two categories. First are the independent sticks that require no special interface to work with the rifle. These can be as simple as the two-leg cross sticks used by old-time American bison hunters, or the three-leg sticks so common on African safaris. With these, you simply rest the rifle across them. The other type is those that are semi-permanently attached to, or that can be quickly connected to, the rifle.
Shooting supports that can attach or detach from the rifle quickly are generally the most convenient and versatile.
Independent shooting sticks are great for guides and professional hunters because they can work with any rifle without an adapter. They’re also very fast to use and some even allow for rapid height adjustment. If you’re a static shooter/hunter who only plans to shoot from one position with limited movement, an attached bipod makes sense … however, its primary advantage is also its disadvantage: They add weight to your rifle.
Many bipod shooting supports semipermanently attach to the rifle. This keeps them handy, but they add weight to the rifle.
For most shooting and hunting situations, one of the quick-attach systems is generally a better option. These often provide the most stability and versatility.
Here are some of my favorite shooting supports of both types:
The independent shooting sticks that do not attach to your rifle are very popular in Africa.
A lot of the shooting during an African safari requires shots from the standing position, and this means tall shooting sticks are generally best. There’s a lot to choose from here, but there’s also a certain nostalgic connection to traditional safari shooting sticks made of wood. These can be bulky and heavy, but they can also be very stable. The best source I’ve found is African Sporting Creations. They offer a variety of styles, and some are even made of exotic woods and come in sections for easy transport. These sticks do not represent the latest technology, but you’ll look the part and feel the connection to old Africa. Prices start at around $230. Website: AfricanSportingCreations.com.
The Harris Bipod
For many years, the Harris bipod was the most popular shooting support in America. With the adapters they now offer, a Harris bipod can be attached to most any rifle and provide a very steady platform. Versions are available in various adjustment ranges from 6 to 9 inches, all the way up to 13 to 27 inches. These bipods are quick to deploy but they tend to be heavy; the lightest bipod Harris offers weighs 11 ounces. On the plus side, they’re relatively inexpensive, with prices ranging from around $83 to a little over $200. Website: HarrisBipods.com.
Magpul Bipod
The Magpul bipod is made of mostly polymer, so it’s very lightweight. They’re offered with various attachment systems.
Magpul is well known for their quality polymer rifle accessories, and they have a full line of bipods including a quick detach model that you can attach to a rifle via the sling swivel stud, Picatinny rail, M-Lok or the A.R.M.S. 17S system. These bipods are adjustable in ½-inch increments from 7 to 10 inches, and at only 8 ounces, they’re reasonably lightweight. They’re not very expensive, either. Prices range from about $75 to $130. Website: Magpul.com.
Primos Trigger Stick
One of the most popular shooting sticks I see in use is the Primos Trigger Stick. This is an independent shooting stick that comes with a V-type rest. Its primary appeal is how quickly you can adjust it for height by simply pulling the trigger. This means you can carry it compressed and lengthen it very quickly as needed. You can adjust the bipod and tripod versions from 24 to 62 inches, and shorter versions you can adjust from 18 to 38 inches are also available. One downside is weight: You’ll be toting around between 2.5 and 3.5 pounds. Prices range from around $95 to $175. Website: Primos.com.
Saddle Tripods
With the rise of long-range precision shooting, a new shooting support often called the “saddle tripod” has become popular. It’s essentially a vice mounted to a tripod that you clamp your rifle into. They’re offered by various manufacturers, and Primos has their own version in their Edge Series of tripods. It has a collapsed length of 33 inches, and you can adjust it to provide between 9 and 67 inches of shooting support. It also offers 360-degree panning. What many like about the vice system is that the tripod can support your rifle by itself. This leaves you free to glass, work an elk call or just relax while waiting for a shot. But at 5.75 pounds, it’s heavy and a little slow to set up. Suggested retail is $170, and a fast-adjust Trigger Stick version is available for $500. Website: Primos.com.
The Spartan System
If you want the best shooting support system, and if you don’t mind paying for it, Spartan Precision Equipment is a one-stop shop. Their entire line of shooting supports work with the same magnetic attachment system that interfaces with a wide selection of rifle adapters.
Spartan Precision Equipment shooting supports all attach by an ingenious magnetic stud that interfaces with a wide selection of adapters.
They offer the incredibly lightweight 4.8-ounce, 7-inch Javelin bipod ($150), and the Pro Hunt Tac version ($300) is adjustable from 7 to 9 inches or 9 to 12 inches. It weighs between 7.6 and 8.3 ounces. They also have the Springbok bipod ($200), and it’s adjustable from 22 to 38 inches and weighs only 10.6 ounces. It’s great for shooting from sitting or kneeling and especially applicable to mountain hunting.
Spartan Precision Javelin Bipods are very light, can be attached in an instant, and even carried in your pocket.
Because these are quick—like 2 seconds—attachable bipods, there’s no need to keep them on the rifle. Spartan is working on a four-leg version of the Springbok a group of us recently tested in Africa. It was crazy stable, light and easy to adjust. It should be available soon.
Spartan’s Ascent Tripod is one of the best of all the shooting supports because of its versatility.
My favorite Spartan shooting support is their Ascent Tripod ($1,100). This 3.75-pound tripod is adjustable from 12 to 70 inches, offers 360-degree rotation and a 45-degree cant. It can hold your rifle by itself, your spotting scope, binoculars, and camera and you can even use it as a back rest when seated and glassing for long hours. It also has a weight hook where you can hang your pack for added stability to the platform.Website: JavelinBipod.com.
Primos & Spartan Collaboration
The Spartan Precision equipment magnetic attachment system is so practical that Primos has incorporated it into their Edge series of tripods. This allows the Edge Tripod ($250) to interface with any of the Spartan Precision Equipment rifle adapters. For an additional $300, you can get a Primos fast-adjust Trigger stick version that has the same magnetic attachment.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Want a short-barreled AR-15 without dealing with the hassle of the NFA? Good news, AR pistol braces are back on the menu.
AR pistols, AR-style firearms with no buttstock and a barrel shorter than 16 inches, have always been legal. AR pistol braces, on the other hand, have not been.
Between the advent of AR pistol braces and today, the legality of the accessory has gone back and forth several times thanks to the ATF’s multiple contradictory rulings over the years. Will they always be legal? Who knows? But thankfully at the time of this writing, they’re perfectly acceptable to own, be attached to and use with your AR pistol (or any other large-format pistol).
This is excellent news, as AR pistol braces make these guns supremely more shootable and useful. That said, there are many options currently available, so we’re going over important features to consider when shopping for one and our picks of the 10 best models to buy.
What Is a Pistol Brace?
Shooting a large-format pistol, which by definition can’t have a stock, isn't easy to do offhand. Before the introduction of pistol braces, the best solution for enhancing shooting stability without a stock was using the sling to create tension. While the SAS sure looked cool doing it with their MP5s, it’s not as good as having another point of contact, something pistol braces and traditional stocks both provide.
The official way pistol braces were designed for use is by attaching or pressing the brace to the firing hand forearm, stabilizing the gun for a bit more control in an unconventional position. Some people also choose to shoulder them like a real buttstock, and they work for that as well, but that’s another legal conundrum the ATF has muddied with various statements. Whether you intend to use your brace the way it was officially designed or by pressing it to your shoulder is up to you, we’re not lawyers and we don’t take responsibility if you end up making the ATF mad. Whichever method you choose, it will make the pistol much more shootable than if it had no brace at all.
What this all means is that AR pistols equipped with braces get you pretty damn close to owning an SBR without dealing with ATF registration. That means no paperwork, no wait times, no extra regulations and no paying for a $200 tax stamp. At the time of this writing, as long as you can legally purchase any other kind of handgun, you can walk into a store and buy a braced AR pistol.
Pistol Brace Origins
The original brace was invented by Alex Bosco (a veteran of the U.S. Army and U.S. Marine Corps.) for a friend who was unable to shoot their rifle from the shoulder anymore due to a service-related injury. After making a prototype, Bosco saw potential and co-founded the company SB Tactical to produce them. That's where all this started.
The prototype SB Tactical AR pistol brace. Photo: SB Tactical.
AR Pistol Brace Legalities
Currently, they're legal…but that could change.
Before production at SB Tactical started in 2012, the company collaborated with the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives to get a ruling on whether the device ran afoul of National Firearms Act regulations. They replied to Bosco approving his original design, and this decision inadvertently got the ball rolling on the pistol brace concept in general as well.
The ATF has reversed course only to re-reverse course several times since.
You can go read more in-depth about the history of pistol brace legality if it interests you, but the only detail that really matters at the time of this writing is the most recent decision made on June 13th, 2024. That’s when a Texas-based District Court vacated the ATF’s rule that attempted to largely prohibit the use of pistol braces, meaning that they are currently fully legal at the federal level.
Types Of AR Pistol Braces
Pistol braces generally conform to one of two styles—wraparound or blade.
The blade style of brace features a narrow blade that sits against the inside of the arm. They’re designed to increase shooting stability by being pressed against the inside of one’s forearm while the shooting arm is extended.
Shooting a blade-style AR pistol brace demonstrated with Magpul's BSL. Photo: Magpul.
Wraparound braces are designed to sit on top of the arm and have a fastening fabric loop to connect the brace to the firing hand arm. The original SB Tactical brace, the SB15, was the progenitor of this style.
Shooting a wraparound-style brace, demonstrated with a SB Tactical SOB. Photo: SB Tactical.
A small number of braces are hybrid designs and have features of both, meaning a blade-like brace with some provision that allows you to use the brace in either fashion.
Which Brace Is Right For You?
Which type is best for you depends on personal preference and how you plan to use it. If you use them the way they were technically designed, the wraparound style will provide more stability and security but is also slower since you must strap them to your arm. Blade-style braces are quicker and simpler but won’t be as stable.
If you intend to shoulder your pistol brace, different details matter. For shouldering, wraparound styles with a wider rear end will generally be more comfortable, but that doesn’t mean that blade-style braces can’t be used that way. Most large-format pistols that a brace would be attached to are chambered for 5.56 or 9mm anyway, and those aren’t exactly shoulder killers.
Pistol Brace Attachment Methods
There are different pistol brace attachment methods for different firearms platforms, but today we’re discussing those designed for installation on standard AR pistols that feature a buffer tube. On that note, pay attention to which buffer tube spec the brace is made for. Some are only designed for pistol buffer tubes, but others are made for standard, mil-spec tubes. Some other braces may require a proprietary buffer tube, but those usually ship with the one you need.
Some people also want the ability to adjust their AR pistol brace’s length of pull, but not all are capable of doing so. Whether it's for storage or ergonomic reasons, adjustability is a nice feature, but it’s not strictly necessary.
Finally, if you want to attach a sling to your brace, you should ensure it has the type of attachment point you’ll need.
Style: Blade Adjustable Length: No Sling Attachment: QD socket on rear Buffer Tube Compatibility: Any MSRP: $59.95 Website:magpul.com
Pros
Great buffer tube compatibility
QD sling attachment point rear placement aids in shooting 1-handed
Cons
Not adjustable
Sling socket on rear could interfere with shouldering with sling attached
Magpul's BDA Arm Brace is a minimalist, non-adjustable blade compatible with any buffer tube style via its locking clamp. There's a QD socket cup on the back and nothing else. Everything you need, nothing you don’t, and it works with any gun.
SB Tactical SOB
Specs
Style: Wraparound Adjustable Length: No Sling Attachment: No Buffer Tube Compatibility: Pistol-style MSRP: $74.99 Website:sb-tactical.com
Pros
Great cheek weld if shouldering
Cons
Not adjustable
No dedicated sling attachment points
The SOB, a simplified version of SB Tactical's original SB15 brace, is a wraparound style, with a 1-inch adjustable loop for attaching to the arm. It attaches to pistol buffer tubes and does not have an adjustable length of pull or any dedicated sling attachment points. If all you need is a solid brace with no frills, it’s a very comfortable option.
The Tailhook design by Gear Head Works is a quasi-hybrid design, in that it hooks around the arm like a wraparound but is closer to a blade in function. Instead of a soft strap, the brace features an unfolding, rigid arm that lets the shooter put their arm into the brace, hooking the shooting arm without locking it in place. The Tailhook requires a proprietary buffer tube (included with purchase) that includes length adjustment detents. They also feature a loop on each side for a traditional web sling.
Some users feel that the rubber is too soft compared to other SB Tactical braces
The SBA3 is compatible with any mil-spec carbine buffer tube, and it works with buffer tube detents so you can adjust the length of pull. It's a wraparound style with an adjustable strap and features a QD socket on each side for mounting a sling. It’s available in multiple colors as well.
Maxim Defense braces are based on their CQB collapsing stock, designed in conjunction with SB Tactical. It has the same telescoping system for rapid deployment as the CQB stock, but instead has a wraparound style brace with an adjustable loop at the end. It's compatible with standard buffer systems and features a QD socket on each side. For colors, it's offered in black or FDE for a bit more money.
Magpul BSL Arm Brace
Specs
Style: Blade Adjustable Length: Yes Sling Attachment: QD socket on rear + two web sling loops Buffer Tube Compatibility: Mil-spec MSRP: $59.95 Website:magpul.com
Pros
QD sling attachment point rear placement aids in shooting 1-handed
Adjustable LoP
Cons
Sling socket on rear could interfere with shouldering with sling attached
Magpul's BSL Arm Brace is a blade-style brace that works with any mil-spec buffer tube. It locks into buffer tube detents with the spring-loaded plunger, so the length of pull is adjustable. It includes a QD socket on the back of the brace as well as two web sling loop mounting points. Simple, rugged, and available in any color you like so long as it's black.
SB Tactical SBM4
Specs
Style: Wraparound Adjustable Length: No Sling Attachment: No Buffer Tube Compatibility: Pistol-style MSRP: $74.99 Website:sb-tactical.com
Pros
Good cheek weld if shouldering
Cool M4-esque style
Cons
Not adjustable
No dedicated sling attachment points
Some report that the rubber tears beard hairs
Another simple wraparound design, the SBM4 is non-adjustable and only compatible with pistol buffer tubes. It’s styled after the M4 stock and is only available in black. This is a good option if you already have an AR pistol with a pistol-style buffer tube you don’t want to swap out.
The Tailhook Mod 1 has the same general features as the Mod 2, a folding tailhook and sling loop, but instead of requiring a proprietary buffer it simply clamps onto any pistol buffer tube you want it to. Loosen the screws, slide it onto the end of the buffer tube and tighten. One bonus is that this version features an aluminum billet construction so it should be more durable than rubber or plastic models.
This model is nearly identical to the SBM4 stock except it was designed for use with mil-spec buffer tubes and features an adjustable length of pull and a QD sling socket.
Strike Industries AR Pistol Stabilizer
Specs
Style: Blade Adjustable Length: No Sling Attachment: QD sockets + web sling loop Buffer Tube Compatibility: Pistol-style MSRP: $35.95 Website:strikeindustries.com
Pros
Most affordable
QD sling sockets and web sling loops
Cons
Not adjustable
Yes, Strike Industries may have a certain reputation due to the red aluminum parts in their catalog, but their AR Pistol Stabilizer has more merit than you'd think. It's a molded polymer blade-style brace compatible with pistol buffer tubes. It locks in place with a set screw, so it attaches securely. It has ambidextrous QD socket cups as well as a loop for a web sling. Best of all, they're one of the most affordable models available at less than $40.
We take a quick look at 9.3x62mm Mauser, a powerful, all-around big-game cartridge.
Developed around 1905 by Otto Bock, a well-known Berlin gunmaker, this chambering was introduced to give the farmers and hunters in the German colonies of Africa an adequate cartridge.
When many African countries were in the process of adopting restrictive laws specifying minimum chamberings for dangerous game hunting, most ruled for a minimum bore size of .40 caliber. Almost universally, the 9.3x62mm Mauser was exempted from the banned classification. It was soon used in Europe on wild boar and red deer, and Mauser sporters were sold in the United States in this chambering until 1940.
The 9.3x62mm was listed in late RWS and Norma catalogs. Browning and other rifles are available in Europe for this cartridge, and Steyr-Mannlicher rifles are currently so chambered. Previously listed under “European Sporting Cartridges” in many reference books, American appreciation of the 9.3x62mm cartridge warrants its movement to a more global appreciation.
General Comments
The 9.3x62mm is a powerful big-game cartridge, with a good reputation in Africa and Asia. It’s sufficiently powerful for any North American big game and would be a good number for Alaskan bear. At one time, it was one of the most widely used, general-purpose medium bores in Africa. This was due partly to good performance, and partly to the fine, moderately priced bolt-action rifles that chambered it.
A previous editor of Gun Digest’s Cartridges of the World used the listed 232-grain Norma Oryx load (bonded-core bullet) to dispatch his first moose. Bullet performance was flawless; at the shot, the bull dropped in its tracks and never so much as wiggled. This type of performance is the basis of the superior reputation this cartridge has earned worldwide.
9.3x62mm Mauser Loading Data and Factory Ballistics
There’s nothing wrong with hunting with an old, classic rifle. Here, we take a closer look at the pre-war Model 70 Winchester.
Sometimes you get lucky. And sometimes not.
Back in the early 1990s, the boss took in a Winchester Model 70 chambered in .30-06, a thoroughly plain and ordinary rifle. Too bad the stock was too long, and it kicked him hard. So, he sold it to me for what he paid: $200. Even in 1992, that was a steal, but hey, that’s what he paid, so not a big deal, right?
The stock fit me, and besides, I had an M70 stock with a rubber recoil pad on it in the shelves, someplace, if I needed to change from the steel buttplate. (I did have it, and I did.)
Checkered steel was the customary buttplate material for the M70. OK, that in a .30-06 could be managed, but anything bigger, ouch.
I looked at the serial number and thought, Hmm, that’s an early one. Yes, it is. In fact, it was made in 1941. It’s in the group known as the “Type I-2,” and it has the stripper clip slot in the receiver bridge, the flag-shaped safety lever that works the wrong way, and the bolt handle has a different contour and angle compared to the postwar rifles.
After doing some research, I found that the hallowed “date stamp” on the underside of barrels was only the date the barrel itself was made. It apparently wasn’t uncommon for a batch of barrels to be made one year and then installed in receivers in subsequent years as that caliber was ordered. But I guess by 1941 they had used up the older barrels, and the barrel-making line was just keeping up with the receiver making line because mine is dated 1941. In fact, it is dated “41” and “1906” because that’s how they denoted date and caliber.
The barrels were marked. This one was made in 1941 and is chambered in .30-06, but then we knew that.
By 1941, Winchester was busy making M1 Garands, having started deliveries in December of 1940. Little did they know what “full production rate” was soon going to entail.
So, mine was assembled halfway through the year of 1941, and it might well have taken some time to get from the Winchester assembly area to shipping, to a distributor and then to a gun shop someplace. It’s entirely possible that it was resting in a rack in a gun store or hardware store on December 7, 1941. Who knows.
Details of a Classic
The Model 70 was the evolution of the Model 54, which was itself essentially an American-made Mauser 98. It did change some things from the Mauser—some good and some kinda meh. One change was the trigger. The Mauser trigger, though a marvel of durability and simplicity, depends on a spring-loaded leverage design to release the sear. While it’s practically indestructible and end-user fool-proof, it’s not easy to adjust. Well, you can’t adjust it, short of doing polishing, cutting, carving … all things off of the DIY list for firearms.
The bolt handle on the 70 was swept back, and this combined with the slick action made it really fast in action. The handle is perfectly positioned to your hand, and the friction is so low in back-and-forth that it almost seems to run itself.
The Model 70 trigger has small nuts on threaded shafts, with lock nuts as matching sets, and you can adjust it to be pretty darned good. Oh, you can over-adjust it, but hey, everything with adjustments can be over-adjusted. Since it was set from the factory to be really nice, most never got adjusted. The few I had to work on as a gunsmith had been over-adjusted by their owners, and all I did to fix the problem was to set them back to factory standard, and life was good again.
The Winchester Model 70 trigger was adjustable, unlike the Mauser, and this was good until it got adjusted out of proper use, and then it had to be adjusted back to factory settings.
The barreled action rides in a one-piece walnut stock with cut checkering, and the bottom metal is held in place by three screws. The magazine plate is hinged and held shut with a spring-loaded button at the rear, so to unload you just press the button, swing the bottom plate down to dump the rounds out of the magazine, and then open the bolt to extract the last round.
Another good thing was the front action screw. It went up through the bottom metal and stock to enter a threaded hole in the center of the generously sized bottom of the action. So when you torque the action screw, there’s a good surface area for the screw to pull the action down onto the stock. This is unlike the Mauser with the front action screw in the front recoil lug. The unfortunate result of that is the tightening of the action screw essentially makes the stock lug a fulcrum, and it needs more fussing in bedding the action.
Also, the Mauser comes with less area for the pulled-down action to rest on in the stock. In the days (decades really) before glass-bedding, this mattered. And when glass-bedding did get invented, the Model 70 had much less need of glass-bedding to keep it from getting twitchy as far as bedding was concerned.
Yes, the M70 came with sling swivels. And the screw you see below that is the barrel-bedding screw to control barrel movement. Not something you see today.
One aspect of bedding that is a real head-scratcher these days is the barrel screw. The what? Yep, it was felt back then that, in order to control barrel movement, it was a good thing to tighten a screw into the barrel, out on the forearm, and keep it from flopping around. This also happened to be, on the 70, the boss where the rear sight was located.
Free-floating barrels? In the era of wood stocks, that wasn’t a thing. Oh, and the front sight? Nothing so déclassé as a ramp bolted on with screws. The front sight ramp is an integral part of the barrel, with a dovetail for a front blade and a front blade hood to protect it.
The front sight ramp is an integral part of the barrel, and they all came with a sight hood.
If you wanted other sighting systems back then, Winchester had you covered. Ever wonder where the mounting of scopes on top of the receiver with four screw holes top dead center came from? Well, if it wasn’t Winchester who invented it, the adoption of that for the classiest American rifle sealed the deal. Right from the beginning, Model 70s were set up for scopes.
And there it is: The reason rifles today come with a set of scope base holes drilled and tapped. Winchester might not have started it, but the Model 70 having them sealed the deal.
She Ain’t Perfect
There was an oddity, and that “meh” I mentioned.
The oddity is the safety. The prewar safety is one I call the “wrong way” safety. The 70 safety is a three-position design. All the way on, it won’t fire, and you can’t work the bolt. In the middle, you still can’t fire, but you can work the bolt, and Fire is, well … Fire.
When it’s on Safe, it’s crossway over the cocking piece, and it blocks your view of the sights. But, to swing it to Fire, you have to reach up with your thumb (right-handed shooters, I have no idea how you southpaws would manage this) and pull the safety lever back toward you and rotate it fully to the right side. With iron sights, it isn’t too fussy … but with a scope on top, it can be a real problem. Fat thumbs, gloves and cold weather—all can conspire to make it a real hassle.
The pre-war Model 70 safety runs to the left when Safe, and to get it to Fire you have to reach up and over with your thumb and pry it back. Not easy with a scope mounted.
The 70 has a controlled-feed extractor, just like the Mauser, which was the standard of the day. It’s a big, stout, spring steel extractor, and it can readily be removed in stripping the 70. In fact, you can remove the bolt and disassemble it with your bare hands, no tools needed, like the Mauser. And that I liked, because I would see rifles in the gun shop every year where the petrified-oil-bound or dust-and-lint-caked striker spring couldn’t muster enough oomph to set off primers. Once I looked, I could promise next-day or even while-you-wait correction to my hunting customers.
Here you can see the controlled-feed extractor, different safeties and bolt handles. On top is the postwar 70, below the pre-war. You can get this far in disassembly with your bare hands.
And the meh? Then, there was the famed “coned breech.” This was adopted because (I guess) it was a feature on the ’03 Springfield, and as a result, the best rifles had to have it.
OK, muster up the 3D modeling software in your head, and imagine the back end of the barrel. On a Mauser, that back end is square to the bore. The extractor has room to work because that gap exists all the way around the barrel. OK, now, on the 70 (and the Springfield) grow that back end of the barrel, like a funnel, except where the extractor has to reach to the chamber. That’s the coned breech. The supposed advantage was that it provided better guidance to the cartridge tip and prevented jams. (All those who have had such a jam with a Mauser, please raise your hand … I thought so.)
While it didn’t increase reliability, it did create a headache for gunsmiths. Fitting a new barrel to a Mauser is simple, if exacting. But once you’ve fit and headspaced a Model 70, you then have to carefully mark the barrel, remove it from the action, mill the extractor clearance slot through the edge of the coned breech and reinstall it.
This is what a high-tech sight system looked like in 1941: open notch for most, with target rifles getting an aperture on the rear receiver.
Lady in Waiting
My intention with this rifle was to get it set up for hunting … and then hunt. Well, in the 30-plus years since I acquired it, I have done that exactly not once. It has had two or three different scope bases and rings on it and a half-dozen scopes, all pulled off for some other project. It once again has the scope and rings on it that it was wearing when it first arrived here. I’ve used it in articles, and chrono’d ammunition in it, but I’ve never had the chance to hunt with it.
And as time goes by, it’s in very nice shape; it might get to be too much of a collectible to hunt with. (Yes, I have the original stock around here … someplace.)
And then, just in time for this article, I scored another Model 70 at a really good price. It needs some scrubbing, and it’s a better candidate as a hunting rifle. It’s a postwar rifle, made in 1952, with a “52” barrel date on it … which I find mildly amusing. Both of my Winchester Model 70s were made at a time when Winchester was distracted by making Garands. The first one for World War II, the second for Korea.
Pre-war, the caliber marking on barrels for the .30-06 was different: 30GOVT06 was what shooters knew it as.
The postwar safety works as we expect, being fully on the right side, and working just fine underneath a scope. The barrel marking is also different. Pre-war, they marked barrels in .30-06 as “30GOVT06”. Postwar Winchester went to “30-06-SPRG.” They also did away with the stripper clip slot, postwar.
By the postwar period, Winchester had abandoned the stripper clip slot on the rear bridge. More shooters wanted scopes than stripper-clip reloads.
We will not speak of the changes made for the post-64 rifles, which is a painful subject to be discussed later. And, that’s assuming I can bring myself to acquire one of those [shudder].
You may be thinking, Well, old rifles may be nice, but so what? They knew how to make rifles back then. In fact, the Model 70 was pretty much a hand-built rifle, which wasn’t unusual in the days (decades, again, really) before CAD-CAM and CNC machining. The bolt is so slick that people who handle a pre-’64 70 think that it has been hand-lapped or something. Nope, just really slick.
And, they’re plenty accurate enough. No, you are not going to post a competitive score in a PRS match with one, since it won’t shoot sub-half-MOA ever, let alone all the time. But can you? And will the deer or elk care that you are using a “merely” MOA rifle?
My pre-war Model 70 is a walnut and steel rifle, from a time when hunting was hunting—not sniping—and the latest thing in synthetic materials were nylon stockings. I’ll admit that at 8 pounds bare, and over 9 pounds once there’s a scope, sling and ammunition onboard, it isn’t a mountain rifle. But that weight comes in handy when you touch off a .30-06.
Put a muzzle brake on it, you say?
Heresy!
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Need a classy leather holster for a 1911 or a pistol with a red dot? Here we check out the Galco Thunderclap and Hawkeye.
September of last year, I was taking a shooting class when my friend, Sheriff Jim Wilson, asked me to stop by his room. When I went in, I noticed a 1911 Colt Commander pistol lying on the table. I sat down and the former West Texas sheriff picked the pistol up and said, have a look at it. It was well-worn; you could tell it had spent a lot of time in a hand and in a holster. It was also a product of Novak’s custom shop out of Parkersburg, West Virginia.
Cycling the action and assessing the trigger, I said, “This is a damn fine pistol, Jim.”
In his matter-of-fact way, the Sheriff said, “I know. That’s one of my raid guns. It’s yours now.”
I didn’t really know what to say, but I knew if a man was giving me a gun this fine, he really wanted me to have it. Arguing would have been useless and disrespectful. I thanked the Sheriff, and I told him I’d been given a lot of gifts in my lifetime, but few could compare to this one.
Over the next 6 months, that Commander and I have gotten to know each other well. Though I don’t carry it that often, it sleeps on my nightstand. What I’d had trouble finding was a holster that seemed fitting for such a fine and storied pistol. For many years, my go-to outside-the-waistband (OWB) holster has been the Galco Avenger. An Avenger for a 1911 will also work for a Browning Hi Power, so that makes the holster a great fit for me. And aside from that, the Avenger is just a great utility and training holster. But, for a gun like the one the Sheriff had given me, the Avenger just seemed a bit too … plain.
I’d contemplated having a custom holster made for the Commander, but I’d been unable to decide. Then, one day I received a package from Galco. Mike Barham at Galco knows how much I like the Avenger, and he’d sent me Galco’s new Thunderclap holster. The Thunderclap is very similar in style to the Avenger, but it’s a bit more elegant. It’s also the first holster in Galco’s new MasterBilt series of best-quality, premium-grade holsters. Galco makes these holsters from the best premium saddle leather available, and these holsters finish drying on a last, so they conform to the pistol perfectly. This is why there’s no need for a tension screw like on the Avenger. It’s also lined with smooth leather like you’ll find only on high-end custom holsters that have been crafted in the best custom shops.
Galco designed the Thunderclap holster so that you can establish a full shooting grip while the handgun is still in it.
The holster also has a neutral—nearly vertical—cant, which allows for a fast, wrist-locked draw stroke, where you can get a full firing grip on the gun while it’s still in the holster. The opening is reinforced to make holstering effortless. There’s also a metal-reinforced tunnel-style belt loop with a support extension behind the belt to help hold the holster in place. I couldn’t imagine a finer holster for such a fine gun.
The problem, however, was that the first Thunderclap holster offered—the one Barnham sent me—was for a 5-inch 1911. Unless you just have no sense of style or are appearing on The Walking Dead, you simply don’t carry a Commander in a full-size 1911 holster. It’s considered insulting to the more compact pistol … and it will cause the ghosts of gunfighters past to haunt you.
But, in February, I was out at Gunsite Academy again and ran into Mike Barham who, like the Sheriff, had brought me a present. (I may have to go there more often—I just keep getting gifts when I’m there.) It was the second holster in the Thunderclap line, and it was for a Commander-sized 1911. I think the good Sheriff would approve; my special legacy pistol now has the perfect place to ride anytime I want it with me.
The Hawkeye Holster
In addition to the Thunderclap, Galco also has a new Hawkeye holster. This is an inside-the-waistband (IWB) holster specifically designed for pistols and revolvers with reflex sights. Though I remain unconvinced that reflex sights are the optimum answer for concealed carry, they’re very popular and the current trend with manufacturers and trainers. Regardless of mine or your opinion on them, what’s been missing is a high-quality IWB holster for pistols, and especially revolvers, equipped with these modern sighting devices.
Galco is offering the new Hawkeye holster for pistols and revolvers with reflex sights. It’s available in black or tan.
The Hawkeye has a slight butt-forward cant and is available in high-quality black or tan leather, and it’s also available for right- or left-hand carry. The smooth leather rides comfortably against your body, and it comes with removable belt loops for 1¼-, 1½- and 1¾-inch wide belts. Though I’m sure there will soon be more handguns the Hawkeye will fit, currently it’s only offered for the Sig Sauer P365 X-Macro, with and without a reflex sight, and for the Taurus 3-inch 856 T.O.R.O.
All three of these new holsters will pair very nicely with Galco’s 1½-inch, SB2 Casual Holster Belt. And, like a wise Sheriff often tells anyone wise enough to listen, if you’re going to carry a handgun in a holster, make sure it’s a good holster and that it’s attached to a damned good belt.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
For more information on concealed carry holsters check out:
We take a quick look at the Bodyguard 2.0, Smith & Wesson’s new .380 ACP concealed carry pistol.
Micro 9mm concealed carry pistols are all the rage these days, but some still prefer their small automatics to be chambered for .380 ACP. The Smith & Wesson Bodyguard series has been a popular choice for .380 Auto carry pistols for years, but the company is now majorly updating the design with the release of the Bodyguard 2.0.
Featuring a barrel length of 2.75 inches, a 4-inch height, a width of 0.88 inches and a weight of 9.8 ounces (unloaded), the Smith & Wesson Bodyguard 2.0 series is available either with or without a thumb safety. Besides the inclusion of a manual safety, the two models are otherwise the same and both ship with one flush-fit 10-round magazine and one 12-round mag. Other features include black U-notch rear sights, tritium front sights and crisp flat-face triggers.
Andrew Gore, Handgun Product Manager at Smith & Wesson, said this about the new pistol:
The Bodyguard 2.0 is a breakthrough new micro-sized striker-fired pistol from Smith & Wesson. Although small in size, the Bodyguard 2.0 has an impressive capacity, crisp trigger-pull, and exceptional controllability. The combination of new aggressive, but not sharp, slide serrations, and strategic texturing over the frame aid in the pistol’s superior performance leading it to the front of the micro category. The Bodyguard 2.0 is the micro pistol you have always wanted, and now can have,
MSRP for the Smith & Wesson Bodyguard 2.0 is $449 and it’s available now.
We analyze a road rage incident that lead to attempted murder charges.
In a shocking display of road rage, an Indiana truck driver has been charged with attempted murder and nine additional felony charges after ramming his vehicle into another motorist. The harrowing incident, which took place on April 20, 2024, was captured on home security video, revealing the intense and potentially deadly confrontation.
According to the police report, 35-year-old Dustin L. Roecker is accused of plowing his truck into another driver at high speed while the victim stood outside his car after noticing the truck follow him and his passenger home from a night out. The startling footage shows the red truck accelerating toward the man while the passenger is still in his parked car, slamming into him and nearly pinning him between the two vehicles. If you watch and listen to the video, you can hear the truck accelerate toward the man standing outside his car.
Miraculously, the victim survived the violent impact. The video then shows him leaping onto the crumpled wreck of his car and opening fire on Roecker, who was still inside the truck. With a female passenger still in the victim’s car, the situation escalated to a life-threatening level.
After the shooting began, Roecker can be seen bailing from his truck through the driver-side window to avoid being shot further. However, his escape was short-lived as he was eventually apprehended by law enforcement following a pursuit. Authorities stated that Roecker had managed to steal a car to aid his getaway attempt.
Roecker, a resident of Bloomington, now faces multiple charges, including attempted murder, aggravated battery, battery by means of a deadly weapon, resisting law enforcement and auto theft. The victim sustained leg injuries and was rushed to the hospital, while his female passenger suffered only minor injuries.
According to the initial investigation, there appeared to be no prior relationship between Roecker and the victim. The victim reported noticing the red truck following him but did not know the reason behind it.
Takeaways
This shocking case of road rage escalating to extreme violence serves as a reminder of the importance of maintaining composure and safety on the roads. While there might have been nothing that the victim here could’ve done differently, it’s a reminder that we should avoid road rage incidents. The consequences of such actions can be devastating and life-altering for all parties involved.
When faced with a situation where someone is driving a car toward you in an apparent attempt to attack, your primary focus should be on avoiding the threat and protecting your life. In Indiana, based on what’s shown in the video, it appears that the use of deadly force would’ve been justified here. Indiana’s self-defense statute states, in part, that:
A person is justified in using reasonable force, including deadly force, against any other person; and does not have a duty to retreat; if the person reasonably believes that the force is necessary to prevent or terminate the other person’s unlawful entry of or attack on the person’s dwelling, curtilage, or occupied motor vehicle.
An analysis of the victim’s response fits squarely within elements of self-defense in Indiana. Faced with an imminent threat to his life, the victim acted swiftly to protect himself. In situations where individuals are confronted with lethal force, the law often permits the use of reasonable force to defend oneself or others from harm. The victim’s decision to fire upon his attacker can be interpreted as a necessary measure to neutralize the threat and ensure his survival.
As A Last Resort
If unable to get out of the way, you may need to use your lawful right to self-defense by disabling the driver or vehicle as a last resort to prevent being struck. This could potentially involve using a firearm if you are lawfully armed, and it is necessary to protect yourself from grievous bodily harm or death.
Merely damaging the vehicle (e.g., breaking windows) is unlikely to stop the threat and could escalate the situation further. The driver’s intent to cause you harm must be inferred from their actions. Here, the inference is obvious, and you would be justified in using reasonable force, including deadly force, to stop the threat. Just because the vehicle is disabled, it would be reasonable to believe that the person intends to do harm to you. So, using force to stop the threat would be justified. This case also illustrates why you might consider ammunition that is effective through barriers, such as glass.
The use of deadly force in self-defense carries heavy legal risks, so it must be an absolute last resort when confronted with a credible threat of death or grievous bodily harm that cannot be safely evaded. De-escalation and avoidance should always be the top priorities, but when you must use deadly force, be mentally prepared to protect yourself and your loved ones.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Want to buy a thermal scope? Here we discuss important considerations when shopping for one and go over the best models for helping you see what’s hot.
Thermal scopes are getting increasingly popular, so there are quite a few options on the market. How do you know what’s best for you? Which features will match your intended use? What models fall inside your budget?
Here we're going to go over what thermal scopes are, how they differ from night vision optics, what you should look for when choosing one and finally the best examples of thermal scopes you can buy right now.
Thermal Scope Development
A thermal scope is a compact thermographic camera that detects the infrared spectrum (IR) and displays the heat signature of objects.
Heat is a form of energy. Because it radiates outward, it is therefore also radiation! To detect it with the naked eye you need a special device capable of transforming these heat signatures into images, hence the thermographic camera.
The first thermal imaging equipment didn't emerge until the 1950s, and those were very large, very slow and could only generate a single image. Thermal imaging with mass sensor arrays was also developed for line scanning (like for detecting a missile launch) as part of national defense systems, such as the Yellow Duckling system used by the British.
The first portable thermal cameras emerged in the 1970s, initially for industrial uses (linemen, EMTs and firefighters were early adopters and current users) and later were repurposed for military applications. Sensor development began in earnest as solid-state (transistor) components became more common eventually culminating in increasingly useful and compact digital IR detecting devices.
Thermal Vision Vs Night Vision
Now, it’s important to understand that thermal vision differs from night vision.
Night vision devices—NVDs—don't detect heat, they amplify ambient light. NVDs convert photons (light particles) into electrons (electric particles) and create an image. Analog NVDs use cathodes and digital ones use a processor. However, because NVDs rely on some amount of ambient light to function, they also require an IR illuminator to work in total darkness.
Thermal cameras, however, do not require light. They have a far longer useful range (if powerful enough), and are functional in daytime.
The military/defensive applications are obvious. For civilians, one of the most popular uses is for lawful night hunting.
A wild pig as seen through a L3Harris LWTS thermal scope. Photo: Botach.
Night hunting is illegal for most regulated game species. However, unregulated game species, such as feral hogs, are typically fair game (check your local laws first). In turn, thermal scopes are popular in feral hog-infested areas and will only increase in popularity as the problem spreads.
Thermal Vision 101
Light and other forms of electromagnetic (and other) radiation have a wavelength, a frequency. That wavelength determines color and visibility, just like how the frequency of a sound determines its pitch (A, for example, is 440 hertz) in music.
Visible light only makes up about 10 percent of the total electromagnetic spectrum. Ergo, normal cameras can't detect the other 90 percent.
Normal human vision picks up wavelengths between about 380 to 750 nanometers. The ends of the visible spectrum are violet in the 380 nm to 450 nm range and red in the 625 nm to 750 nm range. Light with a shorter wavelength than 380 nm is ultraviolet, and light with a wavelength of more than 750 nm is infrared until you cross into the higher (x-rays, gamma rays, etc.) and lower (microwaves, radio waves, etc.) ends of the spectrum.
Thermal scopes (or any thermal imaging device) detect heat in the form of IR radiation and convert it into an image. The device interprets the wavelengths into into different colors and levels of contrast on the display to visually differentiate between the temperatures and shapes of objects.
There are different types of sensors used for various thermographic imaging purposes, but most thermal scopes (especially on the civilian hunting market) use Long Wave Infrared or LWIR sensors. The other two kinds, Short Wave and Medium Wave, have their uses but mostly outside of small arms optics.
Thermal Scope Features
A thermal scope, then, is simply a compact thermal camera with a reticle that can be mounted on a firearm. That said, the design, features and overall quality of the device all affect what role it will best be suited for.
The heart of the optic is the sensor array and the display. A good sensor array is useless if the display can’t accurately show you what’s been detected, and a good display isn’t worth much if the sensors are underpowered in comparison. Both are required if you want to see an accurate depiction of the IR wavelengths you’re pointing the scope at.
The current industry standard for sensors is 12-micron pixel pitch sensor, but 17-micron pixel pitch sensors are becoming more common. As for the resolution, lower-end scopes tend to have 320×240 displays, 400×300 is mid-grade and 640×480 is what you find at the top of the market. Current U.S. military issue optics include devices like the AN/PAS-13B (by Raytheon) and Leonardo DRS INOD Block III. Both are cooled LWIR devices with clip-on (Picatinny rail) capability, 640×480 resolution and a 12-micron sensor. The L3Harris PAS-13G, a more compact version of the 13B, has a 17-micron sensor.
The point is that the higher the resolution, the sharper the image…but balance that with your use case. The more detail you need to see, the more important the definition quality is and the more you’ll need to pay for it.
Using a thermal scope for finding whitetails or hogs on a high fence hunt? 400×300 or a bit less will do you fine. If you’re an officer at a small department that has to purchase your own equipment? Target detection and discrimination are hugely important. Ergo, get the highest definition you can. Range is also something to consider, as the more magnification or zoom a scope has the better the resolution will need to be to clearly see objects at the higher levels.
Refresh Rate & Display Features
The refresh rate is also something to consider, as the higher the Hertz the faster it will show you what’s actually being detected.
Other important aspects to consider are the display features, but these vary between models and manufacturers.
Some will give you things like picture-in-picture, others won't, and whether that matters depends on how you plan on using it.
Picture-in-picture mode as seen through a Burris thermal scope.
Some have Bluetooth capability, so you can link them to a phone app to capture or even stream footage, and some have the option to save multiple reticle configurations for different rifle/caliber setups.
Different scope models can also come with various color palettes, these give you different visual contrasts in temperature. The two most common types used for thermal scopes are black hot and white hot, but some may prefer more colorful options.
White hot (left) versus blue hot (right) color palette modes as seen through a Burris.
Other Thermal Vision Aspects
Some of the other attributes worth paying attention to are the typical things you should be aware of when it comes to rifle scopes.
Select the magnification range and field of view based on the range of hunting you're going to be doing. Stalking pigs on a Texas ranch? You don't need an 18-power scope or a Christmas tree reticle. Looking for elk on the next ridgeline so you know where to start your hunt tomorrow? Different story. A scope’s detection range and identification range are important to pay attention to here as well, but those are mostly determined by previously mentioned points such as sensor and display quality. If you need to detect or positively identify targets at further ranges, you’re going to need a quality thermal scope.
The final point worth thinking about is the battery life and the type of battery. Longer battery life is always better, but the importance of it depends again on how you’ll be using the scope. Batteries that can be quickly swapped for a fresh one are a great advantage for those who will be spending a long time in the field, but rechargeable batteries can be convenient for those who won’t be away from a power source for too long.
At the end of the day, all thermal scopes are expensive, so you’ll want to weigh your options and consider the level of quality and feature set that you need to do the job. Unfortunately, technology is pricey, so the further you need to see and the crisper you need the displayed image to be the more you’re going to have to pay.
The Light Weapon Thermal Sight by L3Harris is a current military-issue optic. It can be used on its own or as a clip-on (with a QD mount) in front of an ACOG, Aimpoint Comp or Eotech.
When it comes to sensor technology, the LWTS is hard to beat. It features a 640×480 17-micron resolution and the display has a 30 Hz refresh rate. The advertised detection range is 1,800 meters and the unit is capable of 2x digital zoom. The average battery life is an impressive 10 hours powered by four AA batteries that can be easily swapped in the field.
Other features worth mentioning include its four integrated ballistic reticles, its RS-170 Real Time Video In/Out for remote viewing and image/video capture that can be downloaded to a computer.
The biggest downside of the LWTS is the price, as they’re typically listed in the $15,000 to $16,000 range. If you want one, check the used market first as you can sometimes find lightly used units sold for significantly less.
Best Dedicated Night Hunting Scope: Burris BTH35 V2
Good quality thermal imaging and features for price
Can pair with Burris app
Cons
Battery can only be recharged via USB
Can't be used with a day optic
The Burris BTH35 V2 is a good pick for a thermal scope on a dedicated night hunting rifle, as it can’t be clipped on in front of a day optic like some other units on this list.
The BTH35 V2 has a 400×300 12-micron resolution with a refresh rate of 50Hz as well as 1-4x digital zoom and multiple color palette options. It can also pair with the Burris ballistic app to customize the reticle and subtensions to your rifle and load, and it has video streaming and image capture as well. One downside is the battery, as it can only be recharged by USB and the advertised run time is 5 hours at 25 degrees Celsius.
Thumbstick control makes using in dark or with gloves much easier
Cons
Poor battery life
Compact, light, and designed for military use in a multipurpose role. It can be mounted on a rifle as a dedicated scope, a clip-on with a day optic or mounted on a helmet as a monocular.
The IR-Patrol has a 640×480 12-micron pixel sensor array and a 60Hz refresh rate. It also has 1-8x digital zoom, multiple contrast modes and a thumbstick control for easier manipulation in the dark.
The only big downside is the advertised battery life of only 2 hours per battery, but it’s powered by a single CR123 that can be swapped in the field. It’s also expensive and the base model does not include a rifle mount so you will need to purchase that separately. MSRP starts at $6,047.
Best Budget Model: Sightmark Wraith Mini Thermal Riflescope
Sightmark's Wraith Mini packs a lot of features for the price tag in a compact form factor that works well for light modern carbines or hunting rifles with a Picatinny rail.
The Wraith Mini features a 384×288 resolution 17-micron sensor with 2x optical magnification and 1-8x digital zoom. Power comes from two CR123A batteries with an advertised run time of up to 4.4 hours in preview (non-video) mode. Onboard memory allows for multiple presets, which lets you swap the optic across rifles of different calibers, change reticles and contrast modes and even capture video and audio. The housing is aluminum and it’s rated up to .308 Winchester. It also has multiple color palettes and an advertised detection range of 1,280 meters. At under 7 inches long and 1.2 pounds, it doesn't add too much bulk to a rifle, either.
Very limited thermal range in comparison to other models
Not yet available
The DRS-TH is the thermal model of Holosun’s DRS series, and it’s perfect for modern carbines such as those .300 Blackout SBRs that a lot of folks hunt hogs with. The most interesting and novel feature of the DRS-TH is the thermal portion is displayed on an overlay, so it can be flipped down to allow the optic to function as a standard red dot.
The DRS-TH has a 256×192 resolution sensor, but the micron pixel pitch isn’t listed. That’s a bit low compared to most other thermals, but keep in mind that this is designed to be primarily used as a red dot and the 50 Hz refresh rate helps compensate for that. That said, it does feature up to 8x digital zoom as well. The optic includes Holosun's Multiple Reticle System (65 MOA ring, 2 MOA center dot or both) and either a Cross or T-style thermal reticle. Power comes from two 18350 batteries and the advertised battery life is 12 hours. Other features worth mentioning include its multiple color palette options and its on-board image and video recording.
The only hitch is that the optic is pre-order only at the time of this writing, though it’s anticipated to be released soon and the early reviews that have been published make it look quite promising. The DRS-TH will retail for around $1,600, but you're not going to find a similar thermal red dot from a reputable manufacturer for anywhere near that MSRP.
Here we check out the Holosun EPS, one of the many pistol red dot options available at GunMag Warehouse.
Most likely you know GunMag Warehouse has a massive catalog of gun magazines for sale. If you need a spare mag, the site likely has it. But these days most shooters are after a lot more than magazines. Never fear, GunMag Warehouse has you covered. For instance, if you’re in the market for a pistol red dot the company has an impressive offering of those as well. Today we’ll look at one of those optics, the Holosun EPS.
In pistol optics, the latest design trend is the enclosed red dot. For years, the standard for pistol dots has been to have a single lens with the emitter sitting out in the open behind it. Mostly, these work fine, but are prone to one huge problem: debris obscuring the emitter.
It’s probably not something you’d notice at the range, but in any adverse environment an obstruction can happen easier than you realize. Rain, snow, dust or even lint from your shirt can all fall in front of the emitter and cause the red dot to stop functioning. On a concealed carry or personal defense handgun this is less than optimal.
As it turns out, the solution to this issue is simple enough—just make the red dot enclosed like high-powered scopes. Holosun’s take on the concept is the EPS (Enclosed Pistol Sight) series.
Holosun makes quite a few different variants of the EPS, but the two distinct models are the EPS and the EPS Carry. All of the other models differ only in their reticle style or color. As their names imply, the Carry model is slightly smaller and intended for CCW pistols while the standard EPS is for larger handguns. Both feature the Holosun K optics footprint and can be installed on any compatible slide. For increased compatibility, each one ships with an adaptor plate as well. The EPS Carry includes an RMSc-to-K plate while the EPS comes with an RMR-to-K plate.
The exact model we'll focus on is called the EPS Red 6, so named because it features a 6-MOA red dot. Holosun also offers it with green dots, 2-MOA dots and Holosun’s Multi-Reticle System.
And, yes, GunMag Warehouse has every EPS model available.
Setting Up The EPS
Like all Holosun products, the EPS arrives in a slick box reminiscent of smartphone packaging. Inside, it includes everything you need to get the optic mounted and ready to go—a user manual, a lens cloth, an installation/adjustment tool, the aforementioned adaptor plate, a couple of different sizes of mounting screws and the EPS red dot itself.
Installation is easy. First, using one set of the included screws and the tool, the adaptor plate is installed on the pistol’s slide. Next, the other set of screws is used to install the EPS to the adaptor plate on the slide. A torque wrench helps to ensure these are installed to Holosun’s specifications. After allowing enough time for the thread locker to cure it’s ready to be zeroed.
Speaking of zeroing, you’ll only need to do it once. The optic is powered by a 1620 battery (one is included). This power source only needs to be changed after approximately 5 years (advertised battery life is 50,000 hours). Additionally, that job is easy too since the side-mounted compartment means the EPS can stay mounted on the gun. The Shake Awake feature also helps prolong when the battery needs replacing even further.
On The Range
At the end of the day, a red dot is a red dot, and the best feature one can have is reliability. If the dot stays securely attached, retains its zero and doesn’t have any electronic malfunctions, it’s already doing better than a lot of what’s on the market. The Holosun EPS passed these tests handily.
As for actually shooting with it, it performs great there as well. The glass is very clear and the dot is very bright and crisp, and the manual adjustment buttons allow you to easily cycle through the twelve brightness settings (4 for night vision, 8 for daylight) to find what suits the current environment best. The 6-MOA dot model is especially suited to a home defense pistol, a large reticle helping with quick target acquisitions at close ranges.
The fact that the EPS is an enclosed red dot had no negative consequences. Yes, there’s a second lens to look through, but it is incredibly clear and has excellent light transmission through the generously sized windows. All that second lens means is you don’t have to worry about keeping your emitter clean.
With an MSRP of $388.22, the EPS isn’t the most affordable pistol red dot in Holosun’s catalog, but it is significantly less expensive than comparable enclosed models from companies like Aimpoint. Better yet, you won’t have to pay the MSRP, because GunMag Warehouse has them listed for only $329.99.
If you need a seriously rugged and capable red dot for a pistol, browsing the EPS series on GunMag Warehouse is a good place to start.
Looking for a simple yet satisfying upgrade for your 1911 pistol? Here we take a look at Nighthawk's drop-in 1911 trigger.
One of the joys of the 1911 is that it can have an excellent trigger. “Excellent” is not a guarantee, but even an average 1911 trigger pull is lightyears ahead of the standard polymer-framed pistol. (Yes, I’m looking at you, Glock.) Polymer pistols have gotten better, and yes, you can get a much-improved trigger pull in your polymer pistol—but at a cost.
So, you want an even better trigger pull in your 1911? What if I told you that you could get it with a drop-in kit? Yes, drop in and go, and you’re done. No, not a bag full of parts, but a self-contained unit that made your 1911 all it could be.
Call Nighthawk.
Yes, each Nighthawk drop-in trigger has a serial number. And why not? It’s a first-class piece of gear and deserves to be uniquely identified.
The Nighthawk drop-in trigger assembly is a self-contained packet that you simply install as is. No tuning, short of the three-leaf spring (which in the Nighthawk is now a one-leaf spring) to adjust the grip safety tension.
The big deal in regard to tuning a 1911 trigger is that thousandths of an inch matter: The hooks that the sear tip rest in might only be 0.018-inch tall—18 thousandths. So, if the sear or hammer pin holes of your frame are off by a thousandth or two, the hammer and sear need to accommodate that. (And, there are darned few frames where the holes are absolutely dead-on, by the way.) That’s what your pistolsmith sweats when he improves your trigger pull.
The drop-in trigger system eliminates that potential mismatch, and there’s no tuning on your part—Nighthawk already did it.
Here it is: Everything you need for a drop-in trigger job. Disassemble your 1911, give it a good cleaning, install this and you’re done.
When you install the drop-in trigger, the entire packet “floats” on the hammer and sear pins you use in reassembly. The drop-in trigger is set up for a trigger pull between 3¾ and 4 pounds. That might seem like a lot if you think you need an IPSC Grandmaster trigger pull of 2 pounds, but if you’re new to the 1911, that weight will seem like magic coming from your poly-whatever. And even if you are accustomed to nice trigger pulls, the clean and crisp setting Nighthawk builds in will make the drop-in seem a pound lighter than it really is.
And, the beauty of it is you don’t have to send your 1911 off and wait months for a custom trigger job. You can install it yourself. Yes, you could buy custom parts and install them yourself, but if there’s a mismatch—even minor—you’re now deep into fitting, stoning, tuning and timing. Or you could send it off. The cost? Yes, $299 might seem a bit spendy, but have you priced the cost (plus shipping both ways) of a custom trigger job? Yikes.
You might have to fit or refit your thumb safety, depending on what the installer had to do to make it fit, but that’s a lot easier than hammer hooks and sear noses work. Will the Nighthawk work in all 1911s? In my experience, if the frame holes are correct enough that you can fit the pins through the Nighthawk drop-in trigger, yes, it’ll work. If they aren’t, that isn’t Nighthawk’s fault.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the September 2024 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
When it comes to choosing the best concealed carry holster, the process has never been more difficult. A particular holster may be perfectly made, designed to mold to every curve and crevice of the human body, light as a feather, and breathable as mountain air. The difficulty is, if it doesn’t feel right when you wear it, it’s not worth a penny.
What attributes make the best concealed carry holster? Like a lot of things in life, that depends – in this case on your clothing choices, CCW handgun and lifestyle.
Luckily, the holster market is nearly limitless. If you can conceive of a potential way to carry a handgun, there’s somebody out there stitching together a CCW holster that'll work. All you need to do is to find it.
Here we’ll look into what makes a good concealed carry holster, what types are available and some recommendations of the top models out there today. From there, you should find yourself armed with enough knowledge to hunt down the best concealed carry holster to fit your needs and enhance your experience.
What Makes A Good Concealment Holster?
Regardless of the style of handgun holster you opt for, it should be capable of a few basic functions. Obviously, if you want the best concealed carry holster, concealability is chief among the attributes you’ll need. Beyond that, there are a number of safety and other considerations you’ll need to take into account. Let’s go through them.
Fit: Holster fits both your gun and your body Retention: Holds gun firmly in place, without any worry about it slipping out. Concealable: Reiterate, it must enhance the ability to conceal a handgun on your person. Protects Handgun: You’ll sweat, so your holster must provide a barrier from moisture. Protects You: Must cover the trigger completely to avoid a negligent discharge while holstered. Enhances Draw: Holster must allow a full combat grip on your draw; cleanly works with the rest of your attire. Enhances Re-holstering: The holster mouth doesn’t collapse after drawing, allowing a clean and quick re-holster. Comfort: Simply, if it doesn’t feel right on your person, you won’t wear it, pretty much blowing the whole carrying thing to hell.
Considerations
Funny as it may sound, it’s not all the holster’s job to get it right. You’ve got to meet the piece of gear halfway in some respects. You need to put some hard and heavy thought into the clothes you wear, whether or not you’ll invest in a new wardrobe, the lifestyle you live, the type of gun you plan to carry and your proficiency with it.
If you do, you’ll go a long way in figuring out what the best concealed carry holster is for your particular circumstances.
An example. Say you drive for a living, an inside-the-waistband holster – particularly those carried past the 3 o’clock position, might prove an uncomfortable choice. Furthermore, it could hinder a draw when on the job. Neither ideal.
Or if you wear shorts and a T-shirt all the time, it all but precludes an out-side-the-waistband holster. Additionally, a full-sized 1911 might not top the list as your preferred defensive handgun choice. Absolutely, you can conceal this style of pistol under this type of garb, but your options are severely limited in how you do so.
Also, your risk profile can play a role in how you carry. By risk profile I mean the likelihood you’ll become involved in a lethal-force event. Certainly, this is not a set-in-stone guideline and depending on how much and where you travel in a day it can change. Evaluating this variable, however, goes a long way in finding the holster best suited for you. A small urban business owner who walks his till daily to deposit has much different needs and concerns from somebody who telecommutes to work every day from the comfort of their own home.
For more information on concealed carry holsters check out:
The key to all these factors is flexibility, not simply in the holster you choose, but the gun you carry and how you conceal it. This shouldn’t mean you compromise. But something as simple the willingness to add an additional layer of clothing or the position in which you plan to carry your gun can make all the difference.
The Best Concealed Carry Holster Styles
There are a few other specialty holsters out there, but for the most part these are the most popular concealed carry options available:
OWB Holster
IWB Holster
Appendix Carry Holster
Cross Draw Holster
Shoulder Holster
Belly Band Holster
Ankle Holster
Pocket Holster
Certainly, somewhere in this mass, there has to be the perfect one for you.
OWB Holster
Attaching to your gun belt on the outside of the pants, the outside-the-waistband holster is one of the most comfortable ways to carry. Outside perhaps the confines of a car’s bucket seat, an OWB Holster won’t dig into your side. Additionally, when made of good leather or Kydex (a type of plastic) it is among the easiest concealed carry holsters to draw from. The grip is clearly presented allowing you to get your entire hand around it with little or no impediment.
The downside, OWB holsters are more difficult to conceal. If you go this route plan on an additional layer of clothing, such as a jacket or second shirt. Furthermore, make certain the clothing covers the entirety of the gun and holster. You don’t want to “make” yourself (inadvertantly disclose you're armed) by simply bending over to pick something off the floor.
Top OWB Holster: Galco Combat Master Belt Holster
Specs
Material: Premium Steerhide Cant: butt-forward Belt Size: Up to 1.75 inches Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $132 Website:galcogunleather.com
Pros
Good concealability
Easy to draw
Classy looks
Cons
Not adjustable for cant
Not compatible with red dots
Galco’s tough to beat, especially the classic pancake design of the Combat Master Belt Holster. It flattens tight against the body, while providing plenty of room to access a handgun. Tough as iron, the steerhide is durable and has a long lifespan. It’s damn good looking to boot.
Material: Kydex Cant: Vertical Belt Size: 1.5 Inches (standard) Red Dot Compatible: Not listed, appears to be compatible MSRP: $59.99 Website: outlawholsters.com
Pros
Huge list of compatible handgun models
Additional belt attachment options
Relatively affordable
Cons
Some users report that the standard belt loops aren't the most comfortable
Hugging the body tightly and cutting down the profile of your pistol, the Kryptek Typhon Kydex OWB holster is tough to beat. Rigid, the holster consistently presents your gun’s butt so drawing is second nature. Options for multiple belt attachments also adds a lot of versatility to the system.
IWB Holster
Kissing cousin to the OWB holster, the inside-the-waistband holster is perhaps the most prolific carry method today. As its name suggests, the holster is carried on the inside of the pants and close to your body. This intimate position reduces printing (when the outline of a gun is visible through clothing), thus is a highly concealable method.
IWB holsters come in many styles and systems, from multi-material hybrid holsters to simple leather models. How particular models attach can also vary, but a majority nowadays utilize clips and loops that attach over the pants to a belt.
Clandestine, the IWB holster has a few wrinkles that you must consider before going this route. Given their position, they tend to be more difficult to draw from and require a fair amount of practice to perfect. They turn up the heat in the hotter months, given they directly contact the skin. And finding a comfortable model takes effort and patience.
Top IWB Holster: Alien Gear Cloak Tuck 3.5
Specs
Material: Polymer and Neoprene Cant: Adjustable Belt Size: Not listed Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $64.88 Website:aliengearholsters.com
Pros
Breathable Neoprene
Cant, ride and retention are adjustable
Cons
Some find that this style of IWB is too wide and less comfortable than pure Kydex designs
The Cloak Tuck is a rarity in IWB Holsters — comfortable. Breathable perforated Neoprene backing keeps the holster cool against your body, which makes it ideal for hot-weather carry. Adjustable cant, ride and retention make it among the most flexible options on the market. Tack on Alien Gear’s excellent customer service and you’ve got a winner.
Runner-Up: We The People Holsters Custom Kydex IWB
Specs
Material: Kydex Cant: Adjustable Belt Size: Up to 1.5 inches Red Dot Compatible: Yes (certain models) MSRP: Starts at $54 Website:wethepeopleholster.com
Pros
Extremely slim and concealable
Good choice of interesting designs
Red dot sight compatible models available
Adjustable cant and ride
Cons
Without the optional foam backing, hard Kydex can be uncomfortable on skin when carrying for prolonged periods
We The People Holsters’ Custom Kydex IWB line has a lot going for it. Besides being about as slim and trim as Kydex IWB holsters come, the models in this line are also very affordable and are available with many more color and pattern options than what most other companies offer. The most basic black models start at $41 but spending a few dollars more can get your holster adorned with camouflage, American flags, the Constitution or even “Let’s Go Brandon” just to name a few. They fit 1.5-inch belts, are available in both right- and left-hand configurations and can be upgraded with a We The People Holster Claw that’s sold separately.
Appendix Carry Holster
Essentially an OWB or IWB holster that is generally slimmer in overall dimensions, making it easier to carry a gun in the front of your person. In recent years, appendix carry has become somewhat controversial. Some instructors refuse to teach the style of carry, due to safety concerns, namely the tendency to contentiously muzzle sweep some part of the body. This is especially true if you happen to be … ahem … a man. Additionally, it’s not generally considered the most comfortable way to carry, particularly among the heftier armed citizens.
Still, an appendix carry holster fills a niche for certain shooters. It facilitates a fast draw for righties and lefties when seated, say driving. It guards against a gun grab executed from the rear. And, at least among the slender, it tends to conceal nicely.
Top Appendix Carry Holster: Concealment Express IWB Kydex
Specs
Material: Kydex Cant: Adjustable Belt Size: Up to 1.5 inches Red Dot Compatible: Yes (certain models) MSRP: Starts at $41.95 Website:roundedgear.com
Pros
Very thin, easy to conceal
Red dot sight compatible models available
Adjustable cant
Cons
Hard Kydex can be uncomfortable on skin when carrying for prolonged periods
Not exclusively for appendix carry—it will perform in nearly any position—the holster is an excellent option up front. It presents plenty of your handgun's grip making a draw intuitive, while still keeping it low enough to conceal. Adjustable cant and retention give you the ability to fine-tune the holster to your preferences.
Runner-Up: L.A.G. MK 2 AIWB
Specs
Material: Kydex Cant: Adjustable Belt Size: Up to 1.75 inches Red Dot Compatible: MSRP: Yes Website:lagtactical.com
Pros
Red dot sight compatible models available
Adjustable cant
Includes two sizes of appendix claws
Cons
Hard Kydex can be uncomfortable on skin when carrying for prolonged periods
Precision designed and pressure formed, L.A.G. MK 2 AIWB holster is purpose made for the task. Two different height wedges allow you to adjust how tightly the rig fits your body and adjustable cant lets you micro tailor the presentation of your gun. It’s also lightning fast on the draw.
Cross-Draw Holster
Again, most IWB and OWB holster can fit the bill. But in recent years outside-the-waistband cross-draw holster models have gained popularity. Typically slim options with a lot of play in the cant (how much the gun is angled) are favored, reducing muzzle sweeps common in appendix holsters. Cross-draw holsters are carried support side (weak side), away from the dominant hand in the 1 or 2 o’clock position. As the name implies, a draw is executed by reaching across the body.
The style of carry proves useful for those seated for long periods, giving unimpeded access for both right and left-handers. However, it suffers the same drawbacks as appendix holsters, in they’re more difficult to conceal. More so, given they’re right up front.
Top Cross Draw Holster: Wright Regulator Cross Draw Holster
Specs
Material: Leather Cant: Angled for cross-draw Belt Size: Up to 1.75 inches Red Dot Compatible: Yes (with upcharge) MSRP: Starts at $135 Website:wrightleatherworks.com
Pros
Huge list of compatible handgun models, including some equipped with lasers
Can be ordered with a red dot cut
Comfortable and attractive leather
Cons
Not adjustable
Lacking some of the adjustment found in other models, the Regulator more than makes up for it in concealability, performance and quality. Holding the handgun high and tight against the body, the holster greatly reduces the likelihood of printing while providing excellent access. Built from rich, fine-grained leather, it also might be among one of the best looking holsters on the list.
Runner-Up: DeSantis Sky Cop
Specs
Material: Premium saddle leather Cant: Angled for cross-draw Belt Size: Up to 1.5 inches Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $97.99 Website:desantisholsters.com
Pros
Comfortable and attractive leather
Cons
Relatively limited handgun model options
No options for red dots or accessories
Not adjustable
Situated at an excellent height and designed to carry full-sized pistols, DeSantis’ Sky Cop is a tactically proficient cross draw holster. The nice part about the rig, it’s simple to conceal for an OWB option and comfortable, even in a sitting position. Though, outside of tension, it doesn’t offer much adjustment.
Shoulder Holster
Technically a cross draw method, shoulder holsters are worth a few words on their own. Contrary to every James Bond flick and TV detective show you’ve ever watched, they are not the most popular concealed carry holster. In fact, they’re rare.
Shoulder holster rigs are typically constructed of leather and consist of harness straps that go over the shoulder and support the gun. Generally, they are configured to hold a handgun in a vertical or horizontal position and some are adjustable between the two.
This style of holster can be tricky to conceal, a bulky jacket is advisable to avoid printing. And poorly designed ones are uncomfortable; the key is to find one with wide straps that distribute weight. The great advantage of the shoulder holster, they're a snap to draw from sitting.
Top Shoulder Holster: Alien Gear ShapeShift
Specs
Material: Leather and Neoprene Cant: Horizontal Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $243.88 Website:aliengearholsters.com
Pros
Very comfortable
Modular system accommodates a lot of handgun models
Cons
Not compatible with red dots
Padded in all the right places, one of Alien Gear’s newest holsters vies to be among the most comfortable shoulder rigs around. Padded straps are the secret, along with plenty of adjustment to get the perfect fit. Boasting Level III retention with a quick-access strap, the holster removes the concerns of a gun drop. Built with stability in mind, the lightweight system keeps everything in place. It’s also compatible with all the company’s other ShapesShift products–so it’s more than just a shoulder holster.
Runner-Up: Galco’s VHS 4.0 Shoulder System
Specs
Material: Premium steerhide leather Cant: Vertical Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: Yes MSRP: $336 Website: galcogunleather.com
Pros
Classic leather style
Fits handguns equipped with red dots and lights
Vertical orientation allows for concealing larger guns
Cons
Expensive
Galco’s VHS Shoulder System is an absolute classic. Almost the archetype of a shoulder holster. It should be, considering it’s the company’s improvement on its iconic Miami shoulder holster. The key component of the steerhide rig is its four-point spider harness that pivots independently thanks to the Galco’s Flexalon swivel back plate. Field tested by the military and law enforcement, the system just the ticket for upper-body carry.
Belly Band Holster
A deep concealment method, the belly band holster is an elastic band, usually with holster pockets sewn into it to retain a handgun. Generally speaking, most are dynamite at concealing a gun, given how close it keeps one to the body.
A favored method of carry by women, belly band holsters are also excellent at keeping a gun handy while undertaking an athletic endeavor, such as jogging or biking. In most cases, a belly band eliminates all concerns of a gun drop.
They are also extremely flexible, positioning a gun nearly anywhere on the torso – armpit, waistline, small of the back, etc.
They have their drawbacks, though. Given belly bands hold a gun so close, they are not exactly quick-draw rigs. Getting a gun re-holstered in many can also tend to prove a task. Additionally, small guns are better suited to the system.
Top Belly Band Holster: Crossbreed Belly Band
Specs
Material: Leather and elastic Cant: Vertical Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: Yes MSRP: $74.95 Website:crossbreedholsters.com
Pros
Large list of compatible handgun models
Certain models can be ordered to be compatible with a weapon light and/or red dot
Extra pockets allow for carrying other items
Cons
Many who have larger builds have trouble wearing or concealing with a belly band
Can be uncomfortable to wear for extended periods, especially if sweating
A Kydex shell integral, Crossbreed’s Belly Band makes holstering as simple as drawing. The modular design has an additional length of band, providing additional support for heavier firearms. Extra pouches allow you further space to carry a flashlight, extra magazines, accessories, even a wallet.
Runner-Up: ComfortTac Belly Band
Specs
Material: Elastic and Neoprene Cant: Vertical Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $39.99 Website:comforttac.com
Pros
Non-specific holster design means it's potentially compatible with a very wide array of handguns
Additional pocket and spare mag pouch
Cons
Holster design is not molded to a specific firearm, so gun is held in place by elastic and a retention strap
Many who have larger builds have trouble wearing or concealing with a belly band
Can be uncomfortable to wear for extended periods, especially if sweating
Don’t let the economical price fool you, you’ll get the whole nine yards with the ComfortTac Belly Band Holster. Designed to be worn anywhere on your torso and in any position, it's among the most flexible options on the market. Made from rugged surgical elastic, nylon and neoprene backing, the ComfortTac includes a silent-release retention strap, mag pouch and money pocket.
Ankle Holster
Working best with small semi-auto pistols and snubby revolvers, ankle holsters are a favored method to carry a backup gun. Generally not a first choice for primary carry, they have a big disadvantage requiring you to bend down and pull up your pant leg to access the gun. Still, if it’s the only feasible method to carry your primary defensive handgun, it’s better than not being armed.
Top Ankle Holster: Uncle Mike’s Ankle Holster
Specs
Material: Kodra nylon and fabric Cant: N/A Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $41.45 Website:unclemikes.com
Pros
Non-specific holster design means it's potentially compatible with a very wide array of handguns
Removable leg strap allows for heavier handguns
Cons
Holster design is not molded to a specific firearm, so gun is held in place by elastic and a retention strap
While it may cost a little more than most other ankle holsters, Uncle Mike's option has a lot going for it. It has a calf loop for keeping the gun from slipping down your leg, so even carry pistols on the heavier side should be good to go. The real reason Uncle Mike's Ankle Holster is our top pick is the amount of options available. When ordering, you don't just pick whether it's a right- or left-hand model, you can also select between five sizes. These are designed to accommodate nearly any type of handgun you would want to tote on your ankle, so whatever you have, Uncle Mike has you covered.
Runner-Up: Blackhawk Nylon Ankle Holster
Specs
Material: Nylon and fabric Cant: N/A Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $42.45 Website:blackhawk.com
Pros
Non-specific holster design means it's potentially compatible with a very wide array of handguns
Leg strap allows for heavier handguns
Padded to protect from moisture
Cons
Holster design is not molded to a specific firearm, so gun is held in place by elastic and a retention strap
Leg strap no removable
Surprisingly comfortable, the Blackhawk Nylon Ankle Holster makes carrying a backup gun a second thought. While it’s designed to tote only small guns (think sub-compacts and the like), it has all the features to keep them at the ready. Chief among these, its calf loop, which plants the gun firmly in place – even if you’re on your feet all day. Closed-cell backing keeps the rig cool and non-stretch retention strap ensures your gun doesn’t hop out of the holster.
Pocket Holster
An update to an age-old method of carrying a gun, the pocket holster is simple and essential to utilizing this facet of your clothing. Concealment-wise, the holster breaks up the outline of a small pistol or revolver, making it appear little more than a wallet. More importantly, it provides a level of safety, keeping the trigger covered. Remember, that’s one of the essential functions of a holster. You should never carry a gun in your pocket without the best concealed carry holster for the application.
Again, gun size is an issue. Pocket holsters are not fit for full-sized pistols. Furthermore, clothing is also a concern. Tight-fitting pants won’t fit the bill, making a timely draw all but impossible.
Pocket Holsters: Crossbreed Pocket Rocket
Specs
Material: Kydex and leather Cant: N/A Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $37.95 Website:crossbreedholsters.com
Pros
Certain models can be ordered to be compatible with a weapon light
Kydex holster provides good retention
Cons
Stiff, square leather backer feels uncomfortable in pocket to some
A hybrid design, the Pocket Rocket takes pocket carry to the next level. The sturdy leather paddle reduces a small gun’s outline to little more than a wallet, while rugged Kydex holds it in place until needed. Holstering is a breeze.
Runner-Up: Clinger Holsters Comfort Cling
Specs
Material: Non-slip synthetic Cant: N/A Belt Size: N/A Red Dot Compatible: No MSRP: $24.97 Website:clingerholsters.com
Pros
Grippy material secures holster in pocket
Soft holster comfortable to pocket carry
Non-specific holster design means it's potentially compatible with a very wide array of handguns
Cons
Holster design is not molded to a specific firearm, so exact fitment may vary
For ideal safety, holster should be removed from pocket before inserting a loaded firearm
More than a pocket holster, the Comfort Cling also doubles inside the waistband option. Now that’s handy. The secret is a glue-like outer fabric that facilities an effortless draw from the pocket and keeps the holster in place when tucked into your britches. Best of all, it weighs next to nothing.
Choices Abound for the Best Concealed Carry Holster
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We discuss the recipe for success when using standard deer rifles to hunt the monarch of the West.
Heated debates about cartridges and their killing capabilities, or lack thereof, have been topics of campfire banter for decades. However, one ideology that few will disagree with is that a mature bull elk is a formidable foe that requires precision and ample knockdown power. Certain cartridges are undoubtedly more qualified than others to hunt elk, but that doesn’t mean your trusty deer rifle can’t get the job done. Below is a recipe to successfully hunt the mighty wapiti, regardless of which rifle you take into the woods.
Growing up in the West, I’ve taken the opportunity to hunt elk for granted. I killed my first elk at 12 years old and have punched many tags in the last 21 years. I have also spent the last 11 years as a hunting guide in Northern Utah. These experiences have allowed me to witness over 75 mature bulls—and a couple of hundred cow elk—hit the dirt. My approach to effective elk cartridges has always been “the bigger, the better,” but that doesn’t always hold, and my views have slowly shifted with time. There is much more to killing elk than just “carrying a big stick.”
Lessons Learned
Hunting is a revolving educational experience in which I strive to be an astute student. In late October, I found myself in a remote corner of Colorado preparing for an upcoming mule deer hunt. With camp set up and firewood cut, we set out to verify our rifles’ zeros on the eve of opening day. Two trucks toting Pennsylvania license plates pulled up as we finished shooting, and seven blaze orange-clad hunters piled out. They were friendly folks, and we struck up a conversation while they sighted in their rifles. For five of them, it was their first elk hunting adventure, while the other two, a gentleman in his 70s and his son in his late 40s, had been coming west for years. Three hunters were shooting .30-06s, two the 6.5 PRC and another a .270 Win. When it was the senior group leader’s turn to shoot, he pulled out a well-used but manicured Winchester Pre-64 Model 70 chambered in .257 Roberts.
“A little light for a big bull, isn’t it?” I chuckled. “I’ve killed dozens of elk who would whole-heartedly disagree,” the gentleman piped back. He steadied his rifle and fired two nearly touching shots into the target at 100 yards. “That’ll do. I don’t shoot them much farther than that anyway,” he said. True to his persona, he was shooting 117-grain Remington Core-Lokt ammunition from a weathered box that appeared older than me. While his setup was lighter than I would use, I understood why this rifle had treated him well for so many years.
The snow flurries couldn’t wipe the smile off the author’s face after tagging a mature bull. Many deer rifles can take elk like this with today’s well-constructed bullets and proficiency with your rifle.
Absolute Truths
This experience drove home three absolute truths about the ethics of killing an elk. First and foremost, he was comfortable with his rifle and shot it well. No matter your caliber of choice, if you cannot precisely place a bullet in the kill zone, your lead-slinging elk cannon is nothing but a boat anchor slung over your shoulder. Do whatever it takes to become proficient with the rifle you take into the elk woods and practice often. Take your practice one step further and shoot from various shooting positions using a variety of shooting aids. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the chances of shooting an elk from a bench are slim.
Second, the gentleman was shooting a well-constructed bullet designed to penetrate through muscle and bone. Your bullet selection, especially with smaller cartridges, can mean the difference between the agony of wounding an animal and a punched tag. The market is flooded with an overwhelming number of bullets to choose from, and depending on what caliber you are shooting, some will perform better than others on elk.
His bullet of choice, the Remington Core-Lokt, is a “cup and core” type designed to rapidly expand and penetrate due to its thin copper jacket and dense lead core. Hornady’s ELD-X and Sierra GameKing bullets are similarly designed to expand on impact while retaining a good portion of their weight to drive home through obstructive bone.
Bonded bullets are another highly effective bullet in the elk woods, utilizing an electrochemically fused bond between the bullet jacket and lead core. This bond slows bullet expansion and guarantees maximum penetration via high bullet weight retention. Nosler’s renowned Accubond bullet is a favorite among elk hunters for many reasons, most importantly because it’s proven itself time and time again as extremely capable and efficient on elk. Other popular bonded bullets include the Federal Terminal Ascent and the Swift Scirocco.
Recovered Nosler Accubond, proving its worth in the field. Photo: Dangersoup.
Monometal, or full copper bullets, have been around for decades but have gained steam recently, and for good reason. They provide hunters maximum penetration and often near 100 percent weight retention. Copper bullets will not produce wound channels nearly as large as the previously mentioned, but they will out-penetrate them and still inflict plenty of trauma. I have killed bulls in Colorado and New Mexico with Winchester’s Copper Impact ammo. Both bulls were dead in seconds with a single well-placed shot. I’ve also had great success with Hornady’s recently launched monometal CX bullet and several variations of monometal bullets from Barnes.
Monometal bullets, such as Hornady’s new CX bullet found in the Outfitter ammunition line, are tried and proven in the elk woods.
The last but certainly not least important lesson that we can learn from the veteran elk hunter is to know your rifle’s limitations and stick to them. The generally accepted energy threshold to ethically kill an elk is 1,500 ft-lb. The range at which your bullet drops below this mark will vary drastically depending on your cartridge and bullet selection. For the .257 Roberts that the gentleman was shooting, his bullet drops below this mark at just under 200 yards. Given that he rarely shoots beyond 100 yards, it’s easy to understand why that caliber/load combination has enough knockdown power to quickly and efficiently kill an elk inside 200 yards. On the flip side, a .300 Win. Mag., shooting Nosler’s 180-grain Accubond does not dip below the 1,500 ft-lb benchmark until just beyond 600 yards. I’m not saying that you should or should not shoot at that distance, but the difference in downrange energy between these two is night and day.
Another relevant example that needs to be addressed (due to its healthy dose of hazing within the elk hunting community) is the terminal performance of the 6.5 Creedmoor. The reality is that most problems elk hunters face when using the 6.5 Creedmoor are self-inflicted, lacking an understanding of the cartridge’s capabilities. For example, Hornady’s Precision Hunter ammunition, loaded with a 143-grain ELD-X bullet, drops below that 1,500 ft-lb mark around 400 yards. Inside that range, the cartridge is extremely capable of killing elk; I have seen it many times. Shooting beyond that distance, you are rolling the dice on the terminal performance of a good shot, let alone a less-than-ideal shot placement.
Hornady’s Precision Hunter ammunition line utilizes the company’s ELD-X bullet. This well-constructed cup-and-core projectile has been the demise of many big bulls across the West.
Plain and simple, a mature bull elk is over 700 pounds of raw muscle and sheer determination to survive in some of the most rugged environments in North America. Being proficient with your rifle, using a well-constructed bullet, and knowing your rifle’s limitations will substantially increase your odds of success when you go toe-to-toe with one of these monarchs.
Elk Cartridge Selection For Deer Rifles
All cartridges have pros and cons that must be considered when hunting elk and will differ from hunter to hunter. In true battle satire, I have broken down a list of popular and proven elk hunting cartridges into three weight classes: welterweight, middleweight and heavyweight. The cartridges included are not inclusive but represent various options ranging from vintage classics to the latest and greatest hot rods released in recent years.
Welterweight
Many of the most popular deer hunting cartridges fall into the welterweight category, encompassing all cartridges built on the .243-, .257-, and .264-caliber platforms. The typical welterweights include .243 Winchester, .25-06 Remington, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Weatherby RPM and 6.5 PRC. All can kill an elk, but each requires immense attention to detail, marksmanship and a deep-penetrating bullet. While I would not buy a rifle chambered in one of these cartridges to specifically go elk hunting, they can serve as a dual-purpose deer and elk rifle when needed.
The biggest advantage to using welterweight cartridges is their lack of recoil and ability to rapidly reacquire your target for a follow-up shot. This matters because none of them will immediately knock a bull off its feet, and a second or third shot is often required regardless of what you are shooting. Less recoil also minimizes “flinching” and equates to more precise shots, which is crucial when shooting elk.
I like to shoot elk on the shoulder and break them down. That makes for a quick tracking job. However, when using lighter cartridges, make an adjustment and push your crosshairs back 4 inches behind the crease of the shoulder and squeeze the trigger. That maximizes penetration and steers you away from the dense shoulder bone. Executing this shot with a well-constructed bullet will easily punch through both lungs and put the elk down quickly. Remember that even with a perfect shot, an elk may not react to the shot. I’ve seen many elk get shot with lighter cartridges and not react to the bullet impact. Often, they run out of sight. Upon further inspection to double-check for blood and verify the miss, we find them lying dead less than a hundred yards from the original impact. Always check for blood.
It is also worth noting that, with very few exceptions, most of these cartridges are intended to shoot elk inside 300 yards. The 6.5 Creedmoor can extend to 400 yards and the 6.5 PRC to just over 500 before dipping below 1,500 ft-lb, but always be cognizant of their limitations and do your best to stay well within them. Just because you can regularly ring steel with them at 750 yards does not mean you should be flinging lead at an elk at that distance.
Middleweight
There is a plethora of extremely capable .277- and .284-caliber cartridges in the market. These middleweights offer elk hunters a substantial advantage in knockdown power by jumping dramatically in bullet weight from their welterweight relatives. The most common bullet weights drift between 140 and 175 grains. The heavier bullets and increased speeds also extend these cartridges’ effective range.
Classic middleweight cartridges include the .270 Winchester, 7mm Remington Magnum and .280 Remington. The .270 Win., thanks to legendary gun writer Jack O’Connor’s exploits, is revered as one of the greatest hunting cartridges ever. His “No. 1” rifle was a Winchester custom Model 70 chambered in .270 Win. He openly advocated for the .270 and successfully killed many elk with that rifle. Interestingly enough, in much of O’Connor’s writing, he, too, urged hunters to stay clear of the shoulder and pick shots wisely on elk-sized game.
While the .270 Win. and 7mm Rem. Mag. are still relevant and capable cartridges, the middleweight division has seen several new offerings that outperform these classics. New cartridges always take much flack over their validity, but you can’t argue with the downrange numbers. New rounds—such as the 6.8 Western, 7mm PRC, and the 28 Nosler—outperform their classic counterparts. They separate themselves from the pack the farther you extend your effective range. For example, the .270 Win., shooting a 150-grain Nosler Accubond, drops below 1,500 ft-lb of energy at 500 yards and has 48.4 inches of bullet drop. The 6.8 Western, shooting a 165-grain Nosler Accubond, still packs 1,856 ft-lb at 500 yards and only 36 inches of drop. The same comparison could be made between the 7mm Rem. Mag. and both the 28 Nosler and 7mm PRC.
Another noticeable advantage these middleweight cartridges offer is a wide variety of bullet options. Any bullets above from these cartridges can take a rut-crazed bull cleanly. Middleweight cartridges will have more recoil than the welterweights, but with a good muzzle brake or suppressor, the additional recoil is minimal and well worth the added performance.
Growing up, I had the opportunity to punch many elk tags thanks to my 7mm Remington Mag. shooting 140-grain Barnes TSX bullets. This rifle will always have a special place in my safe, but it rarely sees the light of day anymore. My last two bulls fell to a single shot from the 6.8 Western, shooting 162-grain Winchester Copper Impact ammo. In Africa, I’ve taken the elk-sized kudu with the 7mm PRC, and it performed as expected with another quick one-shot kill. These new cartridges are not the end-all answer to the perfect elk hunting rifle, but they unquestionably give hunters an advantage in terminal performance, especially at extended distances that are very common when hunting the West.
Winchester’s Copper Impact ammunition dispatched this bull in seconds with a single 162-grain projectile through the vitals.
Heavyweight
The heavyweight division is stacked with many .308- and .338-caliber cartridges that have long been touted as the most versatile rifle rounds for elk. Plain and simple, these heavyweights can take any animal in North America, given proper bullet selection. Classic .30-caliber choices include the .30-06 Springfield, .308 Winchester and .300 Winchester Magnum. There has also been an onslaught of new .30-cal. cartridges launched, the most popular being the .300 PRC and the 30 Nosler. The .338-caliber has also amassed several noteworthy cartridges, including the .338 Ultra Mag., 33 Nosler and .338 Weatherby RPM. If you are looking for the hardest-hitting, most-powerful rifles to take into the elk woods, these heavyweight cartridges are your huckleberry.
The additional downrange energy is impressive. On many occasions, I’ve seen massive bulls knocked clean over without as much as a twitch from the heavyweight rounds. But everything comes at a price. Recoil, especially without a brake or suppressor, can be downright uncomfortable. Additional recoil makes follow-up shots more difficult, as the rifle’s jump will take you off your target. But, if you can manage the recoil and execute a precise shot with a heavyweight cartridge, you will reap the benefits of devastating terminal performance.
The wide variety of cartridges in the heavyweight class gives you an array of bullet options, ranging from 150 to 225 grains or more—plenty to harvest a massive bull. Given a heavier bullet with a high ballistic coefficient, it’s not uncommon for many of these cartridges to produce downrange energy north of 1,500 ft-lb well beyond 800 yards, especially in the newer cartridges. Again, I’m not advocating shooting elk at that distance, but it certainly means that at 300 or 400 yards, your bullet still has the energy of a freight train.
Several years ago, I built a custom 30 Nosler, which, with a 210-grain Accubond, hits animals like the hammer of Thor. I have killed everything from eland in Africa to elk, deer, and antelope in the States using it with zero problems. With a radial muzzle brake, the recoil is manageable enough that even my wife enjoys shooting it.
Heavyweight cartridges might not be for everyone, but they undoubtedly pack the greatest downrange performance of the lot. However, their performance will not trump a marginal shot. Do not sacrifice precision for power when squeezing the trigger on a big bull. And for the love of all that is good, regardless of your rifle, keep shooting until that bull is on the dirt! Do not hesitate to send an insurance shot into the downed bull to ensure it is anchored. I cannot count the number of times that I have seen a bull collapse from the shot, only to jump back up minutes later, never to be seen again. This situation is often the result of a high shot that shocked the spinal column, temporarily paralyzing the bull but not breaking any bone. Such heartbreak is easily avoided with a quick follow-up shot.
The author packed up and headed out with the last load of a hard-earned bull.
Elk do not come easily; each one is earned in its own way. Whether you head into the elk woods with your “old reliable” deer rifle or spend some money and purchase one chambered in a hot new cartridge, do yourself and the elk a favor and heed the absolute truths that the veteran elk hunter in Colorado exemplified. Be confident and proficient with your rifle, know its limitations and stick to them, and shoot a well-constructed bullet. You still have to locate the elk and close the distance, but this is a recipe for success to quickly and ethically kill the elk of your dreams.
Embrace the entire experience and the special places that elk hunting takes you. Few things are more exhilarating than hearing an elk bugle, and few delicacies are better than those from a freezer full of elk meat. With the correct elk cartridge, both can be yours next season!
Aero Precision has just announced a line of bolt-action Solus Pistols available in five different chambering options.
When the ATF’s pistol brace ruling was vacated in June of this year, everyone had their eyes on the return of AR pistols. Aero saw another opportunity, and the result is the Solus Pistol line. At their core, the pistols are the same as the Solus bolt-action rifles but are now available in a compact format that can be easily equipped with a pistol brace.
Solus Pistols are initially being offered in five chambering options, including .300 BLK, .223 Rem./5.56 NATO, .308 Win., 6.5 Creedmoor and 8.6 BLK, and each of those can be ordered in one of eight different finish colors. Barrel lengths vary by caliber, but they all sport the Solus Short Action (Remington 700 short action footprint) and have a 60-degree bolt throw, a 3-lug interchangeable bolt head, dual ejectors and a “cock-on-lift” bolt.
This Solus Pistol is equipped with a proper rifle stock, possible if you register it as an SBR.
The pistols are bedded in a 7.5-inch Solus Competition chassis that features a 1913 rail at the rear for attaching pistol braces as well as Arca and M-LOK compatible forends that have M-LOK slots at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The Solus Pistol’s chassis is also compatible with both AICS and AIAIW magazines, features adjustable magazine catches and thumb rests and has eight QD sling sockets throughout to choose from. They’re also compatible with tangless AR pistol grips as well as night vision bridge and bipod spigot accessories. The cherry on top is each Solus Pistol is finished with a Trigger Tech single-stage trigger.
Each Solus Pistol will ship with one 10-round P-MAG and MSRP is $1,899.99. They are available now.
We look at the history of the Carper Rifle, a tale that spans over 200 years and five generations.
If you’re a firearms enthusiast, then this story is for you. The tale spans more than 200 years and five generations. And unlike histories that examine most rifles, the rifles described here are, perhaps, out of your reach. To quote the great gun writer Townsend Whelen, “The placing of the bullet is everything.” Here you’ll see what an early gunmaker did to help shooters “place the bullet,” and how his descendant continues the tradition.
The story starts in Virginia in 1802 when Joseph Carper, the son of German immigrants, was born. In 1848, he acquired a large tract of land in what is now West Virginia. Joseph traded one rifle for all you could see from a high point that overlooked the New River. It’s hard to say exactly how much land this involved and interesting to argue how a century-old transaction of this nature would hold up in court.
But, more important, is the fact that Joseph built the rifle he traded for this land. Legend has it was a stunning piece, decorated with silver and muscle shell from the New River. On that land, Joseph built a gun shop and a home, and today, some of the property is part of what’s now known as the New River Gorge National Park. The whereabouts of the rifle involved in this trade is unknown.
Walker’s rifles are iron furnished and represent rifles built in the 1800s in the Appalachians. His more recent, post-2020 rifles specifically emulate the rifles of East Tennessee.
Early Carper Rifles
Carper Rifles were frequently banned from many pioneer shooting matches, and a Carper Rifle won top prize at Virginia’s State Fair back when a state fair was genuinely important. The excellence of these rifles didn’t go unnoticed by the government. During the Civil War, or the “War of Northern Aggression” as it’s often referred to in the South, Yankee Cavalry descended upon the Carper home. Carper’s brothers were away serving in a Confederate Sharpshooter Battalion, leaving only Joseph, his wife and a small boy on the farm. The northerners burned Carper’s gun shop to the ground.
An original and very ornate Carper Rifle (top) and a Walker Rifle (bottom).
A stroke took Joseph’s life in 1880 while he was working in his shop. His son, Samuel, finished the rifle Joseph was working on and continued to make rifles until 1927. This was well into the age of the smokeless cartridge—the 3,000-fps .250 Savage and the .30-06.
Why would a gunmaker continue to make rifles far eclipsed in technology for that many years? It’s simple: demand. Carper Rifles were marvelously accurate because of the unique procedure used to rifle the barrels by hand.
Barrels, Not Booze
Today, there are only a handful of Carper Rifles in existence. John Walker, a fifth-generation descendant of Joseph, has two of them and he knows where most of the others are. But more importantly, Walker builds his own muzzleloaders the same way his ancestors did.
Here it’s easy to see the relationship of the narrow grooves and wide lands in the barrels of Walker Rifles. This is the same pattern used by his ancestors.
Walker grew up in the shadow of his grandfather, an accomplished outdoorsman, and his father, who was a talented woodworker. These influences, in conjunction with the Carper legacy, steered Walker to develop an interest in hunting, firearms and rifle building. His uncle still had some of the gunmaking tools used by the Carpers, and after intense study and dubious research, Walker put the famous Carper barrel-rifling machine to work.
Walker examining the cuttings on the tool head on his rifling machine.
The process by which these barrels are rifled would make modern barrel manufacturers eye them like a rabid skunk. Nonetheless, the fact remains that Walker managed to duplicate the process that made the Carper Rifle such a tack-driving frontier tool worth vast expanses of terra firma and the intervention of the Union Army.
Walker prepping his rifling machine to start on a barrel.
The rifling machine utilizes a wooden gear about 6 inches in diameter and about 4 feet long. This spiral-fluted fence post corresponds to the rifling grooves it’ll help cut into the barrel. To one end, a handle is attached, and a chuck is fastened to the other. This allows the gear to be pulled through a guide that keeps the mechanism spiraling and straight.
Here you can see the difference in the Carper rifling method (right) and the modern rifling method (left).
A steel rod is attached to the chuck, and on its end is a short length of hickory that’s split, with steel cutting blades pinned in place. A barrel is clamped to the base in front of the chuck, and the rod is inserted through the barrel, leaving the cutter protruding from the end of the barrel. This allows the cutter to be pulled through the barrel and then pushed back, cutting one groove at a time.
This is the cutter that puts the grooves in the barrel. Walker is shimming it to make the cut deeper.
As needed, shims are inserted into the split in the hickory to deepen the groove being cut. The entire process is an event that’s invisible to the builder and requires a talented touch. Walker says it takes about 8 hours to rifle a barrel, and he knows it’s done “when it feels right.”
Patching with Pride
A top-quality muzzleloading rifle barrel of modern manufacture can be had for a couple hundred bucks. So why, you might ask—other than nostalgia—would Walker make his own using this archaic method? Walker used to compete regularly with his rifles, and the Alvin C. York Memorial Shoot held in Pall Mall, Tennessee, was one of his favorite matches; it could be called the Muzzleloading Olympics. Hundreds of contestants flock there every year to prove their muzzleloaders shoot better than any on the planet.
Most of these guns are heavy and designed to be shot over a log—they’re called “chunk guns;” some weigh 20 pounds or more. Open sights and round balls are all that’s permitted. Walker had tried barrels from Green Mountain, Douglas and Getz, but with a patched round ball he found they couldn’t deliver the precision of his original Carper Rifles.
The secret lay in the geometry of the rifling and the slow, tedious process, that in effect, laps the bore as it cuts the groves. With one of his hunting-weight rifles, wearing a barrel of his making, Walker attended this shoot in 1998 and placed in the top 40, or “in the beef,” as it’s called. No trophies are awarded at this shoot; various portions of beef are distributed to the top 40 shooters.
Well over 100 years old, this original Carper Rifle is still a tack driver.
To understand why the Carper technique is so effective at shooting patched round balls, you first must understand what’s wrong with the design of modern muzzleloading barrels. Modern muzzleloading barrels very much resemble barrels for jacketed or cast bullets in modern cartridge guns. They consist of wide grooves and narrow lands. This works perfectly for jacketed bullets that are sized to the “groove to groove” dimension of the barrel. The wide groove offers a large bearing surface, and the narrow lands get the bullet spinning with minimal distortion. A patched round ball needs the same spin, but this type of barrel cannot effectively provide it.
The bearing surface for a patched round ball isn’t found in the groove but in the area between the land and the ball, which is separated by the patch. The weave of the patch grabs the ball, as it’s forced down the barrel during bullet exit, applying pressure to the bearing surface. A ball doesn’t deform down into the entire depth of the groove like a conical bullet. A wide groove needs too much patch, and the ball cuts the patch at the outside corners of the lands. This need for patch means balls end up being well under bore size to allow for a thick patch in hopes of preventing the “pinch cut” at the corner of the land, and the “burn-through” the wide groove will allow.
This is what a fired patch from a properly rifled muzzleloader should look like. Notice there are no tears or burn through.
The Carper method is the opposite. To start, grooves are narrow, allowing only a smidgen of patch to enter the groove when the ball is loaded … just enough to relay the spin of the rifling to the ball. A narrow groove doesn’t allow as much burn through and doesn’t require such a thick patch to fill the gap. The wide lands mean the bearing surface is greater and more of the patch’s weave is impressed into the ball. This all means that a ball closer to the size of the land-to-land diameter or bearing surface can be used.
So, just as with modern bullets in modern barrels, what you have is maximum bearing and minimal distortion—not with the bullet, but with the patch! The patch is the key and that’s what a round-ball rifle must be made to harmonize with. Of course, the smoothness of the bore helps maintain patch integrity during loading and shooting. Walker Rifles have won more West Virginia State Metallic Muzzleloading matches than any other. I used mine to win that match, and Walker has won it several times.
The lock mechanism on an early Walker Rifle, circa 2003.
Up until about 2015, Walker just built his rifles for family and friends. He’s the only rifle maker I know who picked his customer. But that same year Walker stopped making guns, sold his farm and moved to Kodiak, Alaska, to run the Baptist Mission. To survive, the organization needed an organizer and someone with the hillbilly ingenuity like Walker has in spades. Since then, Walker saved the mission and turned it into an educational institution for youths, where they learn how to ride horses, shoot guns, make knives, grow food and, most importantly, tell the truth.
With the gun-building virus still inside him, Walker recently had his son ship his barrel rifling tools to Kodiak. Now, with the help of his daughter, Jenna, who by the way is a very talented knifemaker and engraver, he’s building rifles again. They’re exquisite works of historic art, conjured into existence with hours and hours of handwork.
John Walker and his rifle-building daughter, Jenna, frequently produce Facebook videos showing the rifles they build and offering educational tips about their history and use.
They’re not gaudy, and they’re not fancy. Walker will tell you straight-up, “They’re nothing like you would find in the hands of a Pennsylvania pimp.” The rifles Walker builds now emulate the working, mountain-style rifles made in East Tennessee during the early to late 1800s. But everyone is hand-fitted to perfection and has a barrel that’s been hand-rifled using the original Carper rifling machine.
If you enjoy a challenge, call Walker up and try to persuade him to build you one of his rifles. You’ll have to convince him you deserve it, and that you’ll shoot it. Walker has no interest in building mantle pieces; he wants his rifles to be shot and hunted with. You’ll also have to send him a check for $5,000. Good luck! If you’re fortunate enough to become the recipient of a Walker Rifle—by gift, trade, fortune or money—it’ll carry with it not only the legacy of a family of talented gunmakers, but also a historical link to the past.
Oh, and you can be sure it’ll “place the bullet” better than you can.
Editor's Note: This article originally appeared in the March 2022 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
We hit the range to test out Timney’s AK Drop-In trigger.
The rifle I grew up shooting was an AK, so it’s not all that surprising that I’ve never had any complaints about AK triggers. Sure, I’ve since fired plenty of other guns with objectively much better bang switches, but that never resulted in me feeling the need to run out and replace any of mine. That is no longer true, at least to a degree.
Timney recently sent me their AK Drop-In trigger to test out, and that meant I had the opportunity to fire it side-by-side with a stock AK equipped with the prevalent (and essentially standard) Tapco G2. The difference between the two was night and day, but we’ll talk more about the specifics after going over the installation process.
Installing The Timney
Replacing an AK’s trigger group can seem a bit intimidating at first to those who are mostly familiar with ARs, but it’s not as complicated as it looks. In fact, the two designs are generally similar when it comes to their fire control groups.
As far as the original FCG designs go, both the AK and AR have two main components—a trigger and a hammer—and each of these is held in place by a pin that goes through the receiver. The point is, if you’ve hammered pins while building an AR-15, you should feel at home doing the same on your AK.
Timney provides excellent instructions in the box and has posted a video guide online as well. The employee in the video completes the whole process in about 5 minutes, and it only took me 10 or 15 to do it for the first time.
Here you can see the removed original trigger and hammer at the bottom next to the single cassette-style Timney unit that replaced it. The two pins in the center are reused to install it.
In a nutshell, the process entails using a punch to hammer out your AK’s trigger and hammer pins, removing the old trigger and hammer, dropping in Timney’s cassette-style trigger group and then reinstalling the hammer and trigger pins through the unit. Finally, you tighten it all down with the provided hex wrench, reassemble your rifle and are ready to shoot.
The only extra piece of advice that bears mentioning is to ensure that your hammer and trigger pins are fully reinstalled as far as they can go. Because it was flush with the receiver, I didn’t notice that my trigger pin still had a millimeter left to go when I was installing mine. This resulted in the pin walking out and causing some minor malfunctions during my first range session with it, but once properly installed everything worked as it should.
The Timney trigger installed in the AK's receiver.
The rifle I installed the Timney in is a Romanian WASR SBR in 7.62×39, but according to the company’s list, the trigger should be compatible with most common AK rifle variants owned in the U.S. besides M70-pattern guns from Yugoslavia/Serbia. I specify rifle, because two types of guns that the trigger will not work in are AK shotguns and AK PCCs. That’s sad news for any 3-gunners who may have been looking to upgrade their Vepr-12 or PSA AK-V, but hopefully Timney will eventually accommodate those too.
On The Range
Once I got that initial self-induced hiccup out of the way, the Timney AK trigger was 100 percent reliable. And, as mentioned, it felt and performed amazing next to an AK with a Tapco G2.
The Timney AK Drop-In trigger is a single-stage, non-adjustable trigger with an advertised pull weight of 3.5 pounds. I don’t have a gauge to measure that, but 3.5 pounds seems about right.
While that may sound light in comparison to mil-spec AR triggers, it’s actually in the same ballpark as the Tapco G2. What makes the Timney trigger great isn’t its light weight, it’s that it has basically nonexistent take-up and an incredibly short reset. These qualities can be helpful in two very different areas of shooting: precision and speed.
For precision shooting, the reasoning is the same as why precision rifles often feature a similar trigger, sometimes even made by Timney as well. When you’re trying to hit the bullseye, the less you move the gun when it goes off the better that shot will be. A trigger that requires very little rearward movement to trip simply makes that job easier.
Testing the Timney against the Tapco G2 at 100 yards confirmed this. Only using iron sights and shooting at a quarter-sized silhouette steel target, I made hits much more consistently with the Timney. I attribute this difference mostly to how much take-up the G2 trigger has in comparison, as well as the definitiveness of the Timney’s break.
For testing precision, I had the red dot turned off and used the rear iron sight integrated at the front of the optic mount. This was to make it a more fair comparison against the AK with a Tapco trigger since it did not have an optic.
As far as shooting fast goes, a short take-up is nice, but a short reset is even better. If you aim to dump a magazine as fast as possible the Timney will get you there noticeably quicker. Mag-dumping isn’t very practical, but double-taps and follow-up shots can be, and the Timney’s short reset aids with those as well.
One Quirk
I touched on rifle compatibility earlier, but one part I didn’t mention is that the Timney AK trigger has a “safety screw” that may need to be adjusted to function properly with certain rifles. I read all of Timney’s literature I could find and scoured the internet for an answer, but my trigger still has one minor quirk worth mentioning.
No matter how I adjusted the safety screw, it wouldn't let me activate the safety when the hammer was forward. Ironically, this makes the AK’s safety behave like an AR-15’s.
If that’s a known side effect of the design, Timney doesn’t mention it anywhere, so I have to assume that it just has something to do with the pattern of rifle I installed it in. Thankfully, as far as these things go, this issue is very minor and not one that I’m concerned about. It could be a small annoyance if you shoot at a range that wants safeties engaged whenever a gun isn't being shot, but that just means you may have to charge the rifle again once it’s empty to cock the hammer back. Many already do this as part of the procedure for ensuring that the chamber is clear.
Considering that everything else still functioned as it should and that any time a round is chambered it will be possible to engage the safety, at the end of the day I don’t think it really matters. That said, it would be preferable if it worked as it normally does and allowed the rifle to be put on safe regardless of the condition of the hammer.
Parting Shot
The Timney feels wonderful, and I’m glad to have an AK outfitted with one now. I still may not feel the need to run out and replace the triggers in my other rifles, but I understand the appeal and potential benefits much better. Most American shooters, AK owners or otherwise, keep things pretty casual. There’s nothing wrong with that, and for recreational plinking or even training, the stock triggers that AKs come with are good enough to get the job done. But some people want more than that.
Whether you’re just spoiled by the feel of very nice triggers and want to experience that with your AK too, or you use a Kalashnikov to compete or in some sort of tactical capacity, upgrading the trigger is one of the simplest ways to improve your rifle’s performance. With an MSRP of about $200, Timney’s AK trigger isn’t for everyone, but for how much it improves a rifle’s feel there are shooters out there for whom it will be worth it.
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