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Gun Review: The Mossberg Patriot Rifle

By
Eric Conn
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The Mossberg Patriot in .270 Winchester conquers mule deer country.

Mossberg Patriot Review Snapshot:

  • With an MSRP of $421, the Mossberg Patriot is a highly affordable, field-ready rifle.
  • Equipped with Mossberg's (2- to 7-pound) Lightning Bolt-Action (LBA) Trigger, the Patriot is highly accurate.
  • Other features include a Kryptek Highlander camo synthetic stock and 22-inch barrel.
  • Chambered in the classic .270 Win., this rifle proved plenty capable for mule deer.

A life of hunting is so often a war of attrition against a series of emotionally draining obstacles until, at long last, hustle and circumstance converge in distinct moments that will define not only the hunt, but also the hunter. So many times, despite our best efforts, that opportunity never arises, which only fuels the hunger that drives us in search of game. When a particular leg of our journey finally ends with meat for the table, a story has been written that will remain with us always.

I’d spent the entire month of September exhausting myself in pursuit of elk, to no avail. Then came first rifle elk season, which ended just the way it began, meatless. So crushing and consistent were the blows — like when another public land hunter walked into my set and drove off a nice 5×5 bull just before I could take the shot — that I began to question my why. Why am I out here? Why do I deprive myself of sleep, camp out in rainstorms, trek through double-black-diamond terrain, and go scouting in the truck at 4 a.m.? Driving down to the grocery store, or buying a side of beef off a local rancher, is a hell of a lot easier, and probably cheaper, too.

In the end, hunting is in my soul. I can’t shake it. So I did what I always do — I loaded up the truck, grabbed my rifle — a Mossberg Patriot in .270 Winchester, with Kryptek Highlander camo stock — and shooting bench, and went to get sighted in for Colorado’s mule deer season. As long as you’re fighting, there’s a chance. Focus on the process. Control what you can control. Failure isn’t going home empty handed; failure is giving up. Character is about what you do after you get knocked down.

Mossberg Patriot after harvesting a Colorado mule deer.

Nothing gets me re-energized like the smell of gunpowder from a rifle that produces tight little clusters of punched paper. I call it “aromatherapy,” and it works every time. For one thing, the Patriot features Mossberg’s Lightning Bolt-Action (LBA) trigger, which is adjustable to between 2-7 pounds, breaks evenly and crisply, and is a huge part of the accuracy equation. The other major factor is the barrel, which on this rifle is 22 inches long, fluted and features a matte-blued finish. My first three rounds, which happened to come with Hornady’s 140-grain InterLock bullet in the American Whitetail lineup, produced a miniscule cluster of holes on the target, set 100 yards distant. Measuring less than .80 inch, that first group was a harbinger of great things to come for the Patriot and me.

Not only is the Patriot sleek and comfortable to shoot, it now comes in Kryptek’s Highlander camo. As much as I love a finely crafted wood stock, I’ve got to admit I’m a sucker for the pattern on this rifle. The Kryptek variant is also available in other standard calibers, including .243 Win., .30-06 Springfield, .308 Win. and .300 Win. Mag. Length of pull (13.75 inches) is a little long for my short stature (5 feet, 8 inches), but it was still manageable to shoot, and I did not experience any problem with recoil as a result. The rifle retails for an almost unbelievable $421, which is why the fine folks at Mossberg are never going to see this one again.

I topped the rifle with Leupold’s new VX-6 2-12x42mm CDS illuminated reticle scope, which retails for $1,559. I know, I know. That’s a lot of scope for a $400 rifle, but the old adage, you get what you pay for, is never more true than with premium glass. An absolute champion of low light, the VX-6 has an adjustable, push-button, red-dot illumination system that optimizes accuracy in any light. The Custom Dial System (CDS) turret allows you to send load data to the Leupold Custom Shop, which will build you a yardage-marked elevation turret for quick and easy ranging on targets. We included the scope in our annual Gear of the Year issue in 2016, because it really is that spectacular.

Mossberg Patriot on a Primo's tripod.

The Patriot comes with Weaver-style mounts, which have to be removed for use with Leupold’s Dual Dovetail bases and rings. It’s a simple swap: All you have to do is remove two Allen screws on each base, then install the new bases, which are Remington-700-style in the case of this Patriot rifle. Once the new bases are attached, Leupold rings are locked into place with a wooden dowel; you can then secure the scope with the top portion of the rings.

Loaded for Bear…and Muleys
I put several other loads through the rifle, including Hornady’s 130-grain GMX and SST Superformance loads, as well as Federal’s 130-grain Fusion, 150-grain Nosler Partition, 130-grain Copper, and 140-grain Trophy Bonded Tip. The largest group came in at 1.10 inches, while the consistent average was well under the 1-inch standard. That’s pretty impressive, but highly expected from Federal and Hornady, two ammo manufacturers that never fail to impress.

While any of these loads would perform on mule deer, especially in the tried-and-true .270 Winchester, I opted for the 130-grain GMX when it came time to head afield. I’d never killed an animal with that load and I wanted to see whether it lived up to its billing. Not that it’s always necessary, but I personally feel most comfortable with a bullet that’s going to deliver premium accuracy, reliable expansion and incredible penetration, and solid copper will certainly do that. The GMX is a tipped copper-alloy bullet that leaves the barrel at 3,190 fps and in .270 Win. retains sufficient energy and manageable drop out to 450 yards.

The other load that happens to be one of my favorites is Federal’s Trophy Bonded Tip. I’ve seen it blow through shoulders, penetrate remarkably well and yet still retain a considerable portion of its mass. It’s a highly accurate round, features a bonded jacket/core, and solid rear shank for unparalleled penetration. When I work as hard as I do to find game, I don’t want to worry about the bullet coming apart or failing to penetrate through the vitals — a confidence I’ve gained in the Trophy Bonded Tip.

On to Greener Pastures
I parked the truck and climbed over the first hill I came to. It was an unusually warm morning for late October, and before the sun ever crested the ridge to my back it was nearly 50 degrees in the high country. As I reached the top of the hill, my heart now beating in my chest, daylight crept across the blackened horizon. Cloud cover cast an extra layer of insulation upon the hill country and blocked out the stars. I knelt down amidst the sea of sage and watched as the world awakened.

Mossberg Patriot in profile.

As soon as there was enough light to make anything out, I spotted several does working the bottom of the valley below me onto the next hillside. I ranged them with my Swarovski 8×42 EL Rangefinding binos at 350 yards. Out of the corner of my eye I spotted something that gets every deer hunter’s blood moving — running does. If there’s a running doe in the rut, there’s a buck not far behind.

Sure enough, a 4×4 came darting across the scene, does scattering in every direction. As quickly as it began, the buck disappeared over the horizon. My heart sank, but I forced myself to stay focused. Control what you can control. I crept closer, shrinking the gap between me and the remaining does down to 215 yards. I sat there for 15 minutes. Nothing happened.

Finally, thank God, he reappeared, working the hillside in a hyperactive frenzy. I quickly dug my Primos Trigger-Sticks tripod into the slope, located the buck in my scope, and prayed for just one pause in his erratic stride. He cleared two oak brush and, for a split second, stood still. I squeezed the trigger, heard the impact. The blast echoed down the valley. Clean press, clean hit. He darted off, maybe 20 yards, then dropped. Blood trailing wasn’t necessary, but there were enormous chunks of lung strewn about his escape route. I later discovered that the bullet had vaporized both lungs and blown the back of the heart off—pinpoint accuracy with phenomenal bullet performance.

Mossberg Patriot specs.

I could hardly control my elation. The jagged road of disappointment had led me to this fine moment. Later, when my three sons were helping me field dress and skin the deer, my 9-year-old said, “Isn’t it amazing, Dad? It just takes one moment to turn everything around. And you never know when that’s going to be.” How right he was.

Parting Shots
Maybe the best thing I can say about the Patriot in .270 Win. is that I’m buying it rather than sending it back. The trigger is not just good, but outstanding. Same with the barrel, which is a tack driver. It’s an unbeatable package for a rifle with a price tag south of $500. It’s everything you’d expect — and more — from the Mossberg name.

Editor's Notes: This article is from the January 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

New Gear: Daniel Defense Wave 3D Printed Suppressor

By
Drew Warden
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The Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 is the Georgia-based company's first standalone suppressor, and one of the first in the industry to be entirely 3D printed.

Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 Snapshot:

  • Daniel Defense's first suppressor, and one of the industry's first major 3D-printed centerfire suppressors
  • Features a one-piece Inconel baffle/tube with advanced cascading baffle geometry
  • It utilizes no welds, which are some of the weaker points in traditional suppressors
  • Reduces sound by 30 dB in 5.56, 40 dB in .300 BLK
  • Available in quick-detach (QD) or direct-thread (DT) models
  • Rated for use with 5.56 NATO up to .300 Win. Mag.

It's no secret that 3D printing technology has had an influence on the firearms industry. Whether used to rapidly produce prototypes of new products during the research and development phase or to create a finished product, 3D printing has become a key piece of technology for many in the business. This can clearly be seen with one of the newest pieces of gear to hit the market, the Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 3D printed suppressor.

Officially launched back at the 2017 NRA Annual Meetings and Exhibits, the new Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 is created using a laser sintering 3D printing approach, which essentially means it uses a laser to fuse materials together and form the desired 3D shape. According to Daniel Defense, this is the same 3D printing approach often used to create parts for space rockets.

Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 suppressor 1The Wave, which is Daniel Defense's first standalone suppressor, has to be one of the first 3D-printed cans to be produced and offered by a well-known name in the industry. Others have produced 3D-printed suppressors in the past, including rimfire versions as well as a few for centerfire cartridges, but none, it seems, with the brand recognition of Daniel Defense. 

The Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 features a one-piece Inconel baffle/tube that utilizes what the company refers to as an advanced cascading baffle geometry, which is designed to effectively attenuate sound. According to the manufacturer's website, the suppressor reduces sound by around 30 dB with 5.56 NATO and by around 40 dB with .300 BLK.

Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 suppressor 2One of the more interesting aspects of the Daniel Defense Wave's 3D-printed design is that it removes the need for welds. Welds are typically some of the weakest points in traditional suppressor designs, so removing those could certainly improve durability.

The suppressor also comes equipped with the Acme Thread Quick-Clamping System, which clamps securely to a 17-4PH stainless steel muzzle device. The heavy acme threads on the muzzle device disrupt the buildup of carbon, allowing for easy removal of the can even after it's been used extensively.

The new Daniel Defense Wave 7.62 3D-printed suppressor is rated from 5.56 NATO up to .300 Winchester Magnum. It weighs 17.2 ounces and is 7.6 inches long.

There are two models available. The quick-detach (QD) version is available for $1,157, while the direct-thread (DT) model is listed at $986.

5 AR-15 Drills That Will Help You Master Your Rifle

By
Richard A. Mann
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Running through AR-15 drills at the range.

More than just shooting off a bench rest, these AR-15 drills are meant to help you improve the handling of your rifle, along with your marksmanship.

The following AR-15 drills are just a few you can use to develop your shooting skills with an AR. These are drills I have used to improve my own shooting, and I’ve also used when instructing others. A benefit of these drills is that they offer a scoring mechanism, so you can keep track of your progress and evaluate your abilities. If you can meet the standards for a particular drill, you can consider your performance better than average, if not reasonably good.

Basic Prone
Basic prone AR-15 drill illustration.This is a basic sight alignment and trigger control drill, one designed to reinforce the basic principles of marksmanship. When you first conduct this drill, run it at 50 yards. When you can complete the drill miss free at that distance, increase the range to 100 yards. (If you are shooting an AR with open sights, work at 25 and 50 yards.) Concentrate on the basics of your position, breathing, sight alignment and trigger control — and, at first, go at your own pace. There’s no reason to try to complete this drill within the time limit if you cannot complete it while taking all the time you need.

Start in the prone position with the rifle loaded and the safety on. At the start signal, fire one shot each at 10 different 2-inch Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-C circles placed at 50 yards. Each hit is worth 10 points, and the goal is to get 10 hits — 100 points — within 60 seconds. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 60 seconds. Once you successfully complete the drill without any misses at the 50-yard range, move the targets out to 100 yards.

Practical Prone Drill
Practical prone AR-15 drill illustration.
The purpose of this drill is to establish that you can make precision shots at various ranges; you’ll have to compensate for bullet trajectory. This can be done by holding high or low, depending on how your rifle is sighted in. You can also click-in the trajectory compensation with the target turrets on your rifle scope or you might employ a ballistic reticle with additional aiming points for each distance.

You’ll need three Birchwood Casey 5½-inch Shoot-N-C circle targets, one each placed at 100, 200 and 300 yards. (If you are shooting an AR with open sights, adjust the distance to the targets to 50, 100, and 150 yards.) Start in the prone position with the rifle loaded and the safety on. You can use a bipod or sandbags as a front rest, but nothing but body parts as a rear rest.

At the start signal, fire one shot at the 100-yard target, two shots at the 200-yard target, three shots at the 300-yard target, and then four more shots at the 100-yard target. The goal is to obtain all 10 hits within 30 seconds for a total score of 100 points. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 60 seconds.

Regardless how your AR is sighted in, the bullet’s point of impact (POI) will be different than your point of aim (POA) at each range. The key to completing this drill within the time limit and obtaining hits at each range is to use the correct point of aim at each distance.

Basic Sitting
Basic sitting AR-15 drill illustration.
Start in the seated position with the rifle loaded and the safety on. At the start signal, fire one shot each at 10 different Birchwood Casey 5½-inch Snoot-N-C circle targets placed at 100 yards. (If you are shooting an AR with open sights, restrict the maximum range to 50 yards.) Each hit is worth 10 points, and the goal is to get 10 hits within 60 seconds. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 60 seconds.

Practical Sitting Drill
Practical sitting AR-15 drill illustration.
You’ll need 5½-inch Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-C circle targets placed at 50, 75 and 100 yards. Start in the seated position with the rifle loaded and the safety on. At the start signal, fire one shot at the 50-yard target, two shots at the 75-yard target, three shots at the 100-yard target, and then four more shots at the 50-yard target. (If you are using an AR with iron sights, adjust the distance to the targets to 25, 50 and 75 yards.) The goal is to obtain all 10 hits (each hit is worth 10 points) within 30 seconds for a total score of 100 points. Subtract one point for every miss and one point for every second over 30 seconds.

Basic Kneeling
Basic kneeling AR-15 drill illustration.
Start in the kneeling position with the rifle loaded and the safety on. At the start signal, fire one shot each at 10 different 5½-inch Birchwood Casey Snoot-N-C circle targets placed at 75 yards. Each hit is worth 10 points, and the goal is to get 10 hits within 60 seconds. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 60 seconds.

Practical Kneeling Drill
Practical kneeling AR-15 drill illustration.
You’ll need 5½-inch Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-C circle targets placed at 25, 50 and 75 yards. Start in the seated position with the rifle loaded and the safety on. At the start signal, fire one shot at the 25-yard target, two shots at the 50-yard target, three shots at the 75-yard target, and then four more shots at the 25-yard target. The goal is to obtain all 10 hits within 30 seconds for a total score of 100 points. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 30 seconds.

Basic Standing
Basic standing AR-15 drill illustration.
From the standing position, fire one shot each at 10 different 5½-inch Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-C circle targets placed at 50 yards. Each hit is worth 10 points, and the goal is to get 10 hits within 60 seconds. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 60 seconds.

Practical Standing Drill
Practical standing AR-15 drill illustration.
You’ll need 5½-inch Birchwood Casey Shoot-N-C circle targets placed at 25, 50, and 75 yards. Start in the standing position, either in the indoor or outdoor ready position, with the rifle loaded and the safety on. At the start signal, fire two shots at the 25-yard target, two shots at the 50-yard target, two-shots at the 25-yard target, two shots at the 75-yard target, and two more shots at the 25-yard target. The goal is to obtain all 10 hits within 30 seconds for a total score of 100 points. Subtract 10 points for every miss and one point for every second over 30 seconds.

V-DRILL
V Drill AR-15 drill illustration.
You will need five Birchwood Casey Eze-Scorer TQ-19 (#37001) silhouette targets. Place one target at five yards, two at six yards and two at seven yards. The target array should form a “V,” with the five-yard target in the center flanked on each side by the 6- and 7-yards targets, about a foot separating the targets laterally.

Start with the rifle in the outdoor ready position with the safety on. At the start signal, engage the targets as follows:

  1. Center target: two shots
  2. Left 6-yard target: two shots
  3. Center target: two shots
  4. Right 6-yard target: two shots
  5. Center target: two shots
  6. Left 7-yard target: two shots
  7. Center target: two shots
  8. Right 7-yard target: two shots
  9. Center target: two shots

You will fire 18 shots total, and the goal is to obtain a hit in the light-grey zone of each silhouette target with each shot. Take your total time and add five seconds for every miss and one second for every hit in the dark-grey zone. If you get 17 light-grey zone hits in 6.28 seconds, your score would be 11.28 seconds. A great score is 5.00 or less, a good score is 10.00 or less, and average is about 15.00.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest Shooter's Guide to the AR-15.

Gun Review: Ruger No. 1 Rifle – One Superb Single

By
Stan Trzoniec
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The Ruger No. 1 rifle is a classic single-shot that has stood the test of time and continues to produce respectable accuracy.

Why is the Ruger No. 1 such a classic rifle?

  • In production since the 1960s, the Ruger No. 1 is a timeless classic that's still relevant
  • The No. 1 is a modernized Farquharson with an internal hammer falling block action
  • A benefit of the No. 1's design with tang safety is that it's truly ambidextrous
  • Perfectly capable of sub-MOA groups, the No. 1 can still compete with the best of them
  • Available in numerous calibers, there's a No. 1 rifle for almost any hunting task

It’s hard to imagine my sporting life without the invention of the Ruger No. 1 rifle. Although I received mine about 10 years after its formal introduction, looking at my gun rack, eight of them are still there standing tall. Granted, I use them all for varmint and small game hunting, so the calibers are mostly in the .20- to .22-caliber range. Nevertheless, they have all served me well and allowed me to experiment with some vintage wildcats. And the fact that it’s a single-shot has definitely added to the challenge of any of my hunts. I believe at the time I paid around $250 for my .22-250 Remington copy.

If we want to drop accolades on one person, it just has to be Bill Ruger, and as shooters, we have been lucky to have him on our side. Starting out in a small shop in Connecticut, he built an empire — not by following others — but by going out on his own with specialized designs, cartridge availability and having a natural insight on what sportsmen like you and I like to use in the field. We’ve all seen it in the magnum handguns, the famous M77 bolt action “classic” rifles and even Bill going out on a limb by introducing a Ruger shotgun in 20 gauge as his first scattergun out of the gate.

Ruger No. 1 review - 1However, I firmly believe the single-shot rifle was the dearest to his heart. In his collection, he had a nice assortment of the classics — to wit, Sharps, Gibbs Farquharson, Westley-Richards — all of which gave him the idea to come up with a modern, under-lever single-shot with a price point to match that of the average hunter, now 50 years on the market. In the end, Ruger and his design team came up with a modernized Farquharson that, through its lifetime, was chambered for almost three dozen cartridges from the .218 Bee to the .458 Winchester Magnum and available in seven distinct models, not to mention special editions and the offshoot of the No. 1, which was the No. 3.

For field hunters, it’s a natural, especially for deep woods hunters. Many of us have been raised on the Winchester Model 94, and you know how that goes. Because of the thinness of the receiver, the gun is handy to carry while climbing over old blow downs, dodging bramble bushes and small saplings. The same is in the offering of the No. 1, especially if you choose a model with open sights, as the bulk of a mounted scope is absent on this type of gun.

Using the No. 1 Light Sporter for example, the barrel is a curt 22 inches; placing it on your shoulder negates any field carry, as the tip of the barrel rarely goes over the top of your cap, making walking easy. Interesting to note is that because the No. 1 is devoid of a long, bolt-type action, my Model 1-B in .204 Ruger with its 26-inch barrel is the same length (42½ inches) as my pet Savage Model 114 in .270 Winchester, which can be an advantage to long-range shooters using modern magnum ammunition. For scabbard use, the lack of a bolt handle makes insertion or retrieval of the gun too easy to mention, and with the addition of a tang safety (forward to fire, down for safe), this gun is a natural for both right- and left-handed shooters.

Ruger No. 1 review - 3While the model variations have been cut back through a change in the distributorship of the No. 1, many are still available as special runs or on the secondary market. Presently, Lipsey’s of Baton Rouge, Louisiana, has taken over the franchise of the No. 1s, and although they list six different models of the gun, be advised, they are limited on cartridge availability, with only one specific caliber per model.

I assume this will change, as waiting for the right cartridge can be painful especially at this pace. Here, a quick check at GunBroker, Classic Sporting Arms or Cabela’s will provide a long list of guns (both new and used) for sale.

For variety, the Ruger No. 1 has something for everyone. Over the ensuing years I’ve had, purchased and traded most every model they have, but the one that is my all-time favorite is the No. 1 Standard rifle.

This is the one with the extended forearm, which is perfect for my type of varmint hunting. I started out with one in 1976 in .22-250 Remington, and it's still turning out groups around a half-inch with the Hornady 60-grain Spire Point bullet. That rifle is still in my gunroom sitting proudly on the rack.

Ruger No. 1 reivew - 2In addition to this Standard rifle with a tapered 26-inch barrel, there are a half-dozen more to add with the barrel lengths in parenthesis. The Light Sporter (22-inch), Medium Sporter (26-inch), Special Varminter (24-inch heavy), Tropical (24-inch heavy), International (20-inch lightweight) and the Standard Light Sporter complete with a handy 22-inch barrel. All Ruger No. 1s came with a set of Ruger rings that mounted on an elegant quarter rib attached to each rifle at the factory.

For the purpose of wringing out the details, let’s stay with the Ruger No. 1 Standard rifle.

When detailing the stock, it is easy to see Bill Ruger had his two cents of involvement, as the stock is classic in every way. There is no line-disturbing comb, nor is there a cheekpiece on the left side of the buttstock.

This is what makes the No. 1 so popular with both right- and left-handed shooters. With the tang-mounted safety and no bolt to mar the operation, this is truly an ambidextrous rifle for all to enjoy.

Regardless of the model, the buttstock is finished off with a handsome and classic rubber recoil pad with a black spacer. The pistol grip has a pleasant sweep to it, and I find it comfortable whether braced on an old log or lying prone on the ground. A Ruger grip cap and a rear sling stud finishes this part of the gun off in grand style. Length of pull is 13½ inches.

Ruger No. 1 review - 4With my Standard, the front part of the stock is considered to be a semi-beavertail in design and measures over a foot long from the receiver to the muzzle end of the stock. It is held to the gun via a hanger and an angled screw that, when tightened down, actually pulls the wood up and towards the front of the receiver for support and to enhance accuracy.

On my guns and samples received recently, the final finish is done in a satin patina, smooth to the touch, and covers the stock with a feeling the old masters laid down on classic guns at the turn of the century. There is more than ample checkering on the No. 1, and it covers both the pistol grip and forend of the gun.

On the former, recently, a new pattern of sorts has appeared that offers rear extension of the point pattern now standard on all No. 1s. On the latter, the point pattern continues, less subdued, nevertheless with good coverage for holding the gun.

All of the inletting is first class, with the area around the tang, trigger guard and barrel channel cut with precision. With reference to the receiver, the wood to metal fit is finished “proud,” which simply means it is not finished flush with the receiver itself. While some may object to this, this method keeps the receiver pristine, as the final finishing process will not scratch this highly polished surface, making the gun more economical to build with a lower price point.

Ruger No. 1 review - 5Looking back, I can remember that the Ruger No. 1 was a premium rifle and, with this, deserved semi-fancy to fancy wood. In the beginning years, most if not all had better than select wood; in fact, I can remember wood that was outright gorgeous.

It seems over the years pricing has gone up, but the quality of the wood has gone down. Occasionally, there is a rifle with a strong grain structure, but on the whole, there is nothing of the caliber of the guns long ago. In any event, if you have the time to scout around, there are handsome stocks to be found.

The receiver, barrel and related parts are finished to a rich, blue patina in keeping with the origin of this particular gun. The investment cast action takes its look from the Farquharson rifles of the past, but it is redesigned and modified for the modern shooter.

Compared to traditional bolt-action rifles, the basic receiver is only 2½ inches long but actually measures about 5½ inches long if you include the area out to the rear of the tang housing the safety and related internal parts. As mentioned before, the width of the receiver comes to 1½ inches — perfect for those who like to hand carry their weapon into the woods.

Ruger No. 1 review - 6Bill Ruger and his design team had many thoughts on how to make the gun function perfectly every time while keeping it trim right down to the muzzle. They did this by moving the mainspring forward and within the protection of the forearm. From a design standpoint, the gun is considered hammerless and upon cocking the gun with the operating lever, the falling block drops down, coming to rest within the confines of the receiver. In fact, one interesting feature of this rifle is that when the gun is cocked, the very tip of the hammer shows as a cocking indicator at the forward part of the operating lever.

In keeping with the overall smoothness of operation, the breechblock moves up and down within the receiver at a preset 3 degrees to the rear as to allow it to move effortlessly over the rear of the cartridge case when installed into the chamber. When the lever is up, a lever latch locks the action in place. Pressing down on this lever unlocks this forward facing latch, dropping the block while resetting the action and ejecting the spent cartridge.

Ejection of the spent round is always reliable thanks to a massive ejector spring located within the forearm of the gun. Tied to a cam, this spring provides more than enough force to move any cartridge out of the gun.

For those of us who like to keep our brass for reloading, there is an adjustment within this assembly to keep the brass within the confines of the gun and not on the ground. In short, this allows the shooter to vary the pressure on this ejector as to limit the travel of the spent case out of the gun.

Ruger No. 1 Review - 7Years back, you could adjust the trigger to one’s preferences, but today that luxury is gone. While there are still the dual adjustment screws within the confines of the trigger assembly, going through the book shows that Ruger does not want you to “tinker” with the mechanism. To wit, Ruger goes on to say, “do not alter any factory setting,” which simply means it has been adjusted at the factory.

On the majority of my No. 1s in the rack, I am looking at an average of 4 pounds of pull with no take-up before the sear broke. Not ideal, but workable, and if I had just one criticism of the gun, it would be the adjustable (or the lack of) trigger.

On my Standard gun, the barrel is 26 inches — perfect for my affinity to vintage wildcat cartridges. It has a graceful taper out to the muzzle to a sporting diameter of .625 inches. Attached to the barrel is a quarter rib, perfect for mounting a scope, or factory installed iron sights.

With regards to a scope and eye relief, I offer this suggestion, especially with the higher-powered optics. If you have trouble getting a full image circle with your scope, purchase a set of Ruger dual rear offset rings. For some reason, I have trouble with all No. 1 guns, as I can’t seem to get close enough to the scope, and with these (available from the Service Department), they solve the problem with aplomb. On the other hand, some models have an adjustable folding-leaf sight mounted on the quarter rib, with a ramp front sight complete with a gold bead.

Ruger No. 1 Review - 8When it comes to accuracy with the No. 1, reams of paper have been written about this subject. For me, I have no problems, and since I handload, I can coax groups out of my guns that go under an inch or better. Equally impressive are modern factory loads in the .204 Ruger from Hornady or Remington that have placed three shots on paper at the century mark of .680 inches and .360 inches respectively.

The Ruger No. 1 offers a great deal of fun to any hunter, be it small game, big game or varmint. I have used these guns for my varmint hunting and cartridge experiments (my favorite is the .219 Donaldson Wasp) for the past 40 years, and they still continue to amaze me. For more information, contact www.lipseys.com or www.ruger.com.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the April 2016 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Gun Review: Smith & Wesson Model 629 Revolver

By
Doug Larson
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The Smith & Wesson Model 629 is a heavy duty .44 Magnum revolver that's the perfect protection for city and country.

Smith & Wesson Model 629 Review Snapshot:

  • A stainless steel .44 Magnum revolver, the Model 629 is based on the earlier Model 29
  • The potent Model 629 offers users protection from bears and other predators
  • The Model 629 produced adequate accuracy, with groups around 2 inches at 25 yards
  • Rugged and dependable, the 629 provides what users need in a .44 Magnum revolver

For many years after its introduction in 1955, the .44 Magnum was often referred to as the most powerful handgun cartridge in the world. Several other handgun cartridges have exceeded its power since then, but it still remains a powerful round that is capable of taking most North American big game.

Smith & Wesson’s Model 29 was the first production revolver chambered for the .44 Magnum, and sales skyrocketed after Clint Eastwood’s portrayal on the big screen of Inspector Harry Callahan, aka “Dirty Harry,” who dispatched the bad guys with one. Stories still circulate about movie fans buying a Model 29 and a box of cartridges, then after shooting one cylinder full of six, selling the gun and the remaining cartridges because of the sobering recoil.

Smith and Wesson Model 629 - 1The Model 29 beget the Model 629, which is a stainless steel version of the gun. Both guns, the 29 and 629, have been in the S&W inventory for many years and continue to be excellent choices for the shooter who is seeking a recreational revolver that can also serve as protection against dangerous game, wild predators or humans intent on causing bodily harm or death. So, the Model 629 reviewed here is a versatile choice.

One feature that makes the Model 629 so versatile is that not only will it handle the most powerful .44 Magnum loads, it can also safely fire .44 Special cartridges because that round is less powerful, is .125 inches shorter than the Magnum and comfortably fits in the chamber. The .44 Special not only generates considerably less recoil, making it pleasant to shoot for fun or practice, it is also a popular self-defense round with ballistics about the same as those of the revered .45 ACP. And because it is less powerful than the .44 Magnum, it generates less muzzle rise, allowing the shooter to get back on target faster for follow-up shots.

Some people want that extra magnum power though for personal defense against human predators, and carry the Model 629 loaded with .44 Magnum rounds. Generally, the ammunition chosen is a hollow point design with a projectile weight of 180 to 240 grains. At the speeds generated by the magnum load, expansion and penetration both combine to deliver serious damage on the receiving end in order to stop felonious behavior.

But the 629 offers even more versatility. When loaded with heavy, hard-hitting, solid projectiles, it is an effective defense against bears and other wild predators. So why not use hollow point expanding projectiles against bears? The answer is lack of penetration.

Smith and Wesson Model 629 - 2Bears are big animals with thick hides that are much tougher than the human skin. Bears also have massive bone structures and tough muscles that work together to protect the animal and make it more difficult to reach vital organs. And doing damage to vital organs is necessary to stop a bear in the midst of a charge. A hard cast 300-grain or heavier bullet has the energy to penetrate hide, bone and muscle and do serious damage to internal organs, where a hollow point bullet is more likely to begin expanding on impact, which slows it down and reduces penetration, so it may not go deep enough to inflict charge-stopping damage.

“Penetration is key, so hard cast or solid bullets are recommended for bear defense,” says Il Ling New, professional hunting guide and Gunsite Instructor who teaches, among other classes, Predator Defense. She adds, “At Gunsite, we recommend that a charging bear be shot in the face—ideally between the eyes and nose—to stop a charge as soon as possible. Other shots may take too long to stop the bear before it can do damage.”

Many ammunition manufacturers produce .44 Magnum and .44 Special loads with a variety of bullets suitable for anything from punching paper to dropping big, tough game. So obtaining ammo is not difficult. Ammunition is supplied by major manufactures and smaller specialty manufacturers who specialize in certain loads and cater to select clientele. And the S&W Model 629 will handle them all.

Smith and Wesson Model 629 - 3While the Model 629 is available in a variety of versions with different features, a 4-inch barreled standard version was evaluated for this article. The 629 is a large frame revolver built on S&W’s N frame, which is well suited for the recoil and pressures associated with the .44 Magnum. The gun has a bright, polished stainless steel finish with the familiar Smith & Wesson logo on the left side just below the cylinder catch.

Up front, the gun sports a blued steel ramp sight with a bright orange insert that demands attention when aiming. The rear sight is also blued steel and is adjustable for both windage and elevation by turning adjustment screws. It has a white outline to aid in acquisition when in a hurry. Since the gun can accommodate so many different .44 Special and .44 Magnum loads, an adjustable sight is an excellent feature because changing loads invariably shifts the point of impact. And an accurate zero is necessary, especially if using the gun for self defense or defense against wild predators.

Smith and Wesson Model 629 - 5The underlug beneath the barrel extends about two thirds of the distance to the muzzle. The hammer and trigger appear to be made of carbon steel, and the hammer spur is aggressively checkered for good purchase if the shooter chooses to thumb cock the revolver. The trigger has a polished, wide face that encourages a smooth, consistent trigger press when shooting the revolver double action. The double-action trigger pull on the test gun measures 13.5 pounds, whereas the single action breaks crisply at just under 4 pounds with a bit of overtravel.

A fluted cylinder on a swing-out crane has a six-round capacity, and the cylinder catch is easily activated to release the cylinder by pushing it forward. Older versions of the Model 629 were equipped with one-piece synthetic grips featuring a stippled texture and distinct finger grooves to anchor the gun in the hand. However, the newest model has a slightly different grip with less pronounced finger grooves and a cushioned backstrap to help reduce the effects of the stout recoil that the .44 Magnum can generate with heavy loads.

Smith and Wesson Model 629 - 6Shooting the Model 629 can be a pleasant experience or, depending on the shooter’s tolerance for recoil, a bit distressing. Because the gun weighs 41.5 ounces, which is about 2.5 pounds—more for those with longer barrels—most shooters can comfortably handle shooting light .44 Special loads. The traditional 240-grain .44 Magnum loads are manageable by many shooters unless a large number are fired in a single session. The heavy loads made for hunting or predator defense, those around 300 grains or more, generate what most shooters would call punishing recoil, and firing a few rounds in a session will satisfy them. Of course, there are shooters with a higher tolerance for recoil.

The Model 629 can be a very accurate gun in the right hands and is capable of delivering tight groups. The test gun delivered groups at 25 yards averaging just over 2 inches, and shooters with very sharp vision and the proper technique can probably get better results.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the April 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

How To Choose The Right Tactical Rifle Sling

By
Tiger McKee
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The sling for your carbine is like the holster for your pistol; it’s a mandatory piece of equipment. It’s also one of the most misunderstood accessories out there.

Choosing the Right Rifle Sling Snapshot:

  • There are three basic types of slings: shooting slings, carry slings and tactical slings
  • Tactical slings, most relevant to the AR, fall into three categories: single-point, two-point and three-point
  • Single-point slings offer hands-free operation, quick transitions to the secondary weapon and rapid on/off attachment, but also have disadvantages
  • The author feels the two-point is the most versatile option, while the three-point can become cumbersome

There are a variety of slings, and while it may seem simple, choosing the right sling can get complicated. Application and personal preference determine what sling is best for you. Also, keep in mind that you can always swap this gear, changing it out to fit what you are doing.

I highly recommend starting off with a simple two-point sling. Set up correctly, a two-point sling design will do everything you need, without being too complex. After working with the AR and learning how to use it, you can start experimenting with the various types, making an educated decision on what you need or what is required for your specific application. (For details on using the sling and the different carry modes, see the section on Carry Modes.)

Shooting Slings

Shooting slings are traditionally made of leather. The support arm is looped through the sling to create a more stable firing position, but only when the support elbow is resting or braced against something. For marksmanship, this is a definite advantage. (Jeff Cooper was a major proponent of shooting slings and devoted a whole chapter to this in “The Art of the Rifle.”) The competition variety takes time to loop up, and is normally reserved for matches, such as NRA High Power competition. The exception to this is the Ching Sling, designed by Eric Ching, which is very quick to loop into; however, you rarely see them in use on ARs.

A leather shooting sling is used for slinging up around the arm for stability in positions where the support arm is resting on or braced against something.
A leather shooting sling is used for slinging up around the arm for stability in positions where the support arm is resting on or braced against something.

If you are going to work with a shooting sling, looping it up for stability and accuracy, you need to remember that this puts force on the handguard, pulling it downward enough to affect shot placement. With a standard-type handguard, the front fits into a handguard “cap,” which is around the barrel just behind the front sight base. The sling is connected to the handguard. Applying downward pressure to the sling pulls the barrel down. For example, with my stock AR HBAR, looping up in the sling will lower the point of impact, where the bullet hits the target, by about 6 inches at 100 yards.

In order for this pressure not to affect your shot placement, you need a free-floating handguard. This type of handguard isn’t attached to the front of the barrel. This way any pressure on the handguard doesn’t affect the barrel or your point of impact.

Carry Slings

In American carry the rifle is over the strong-side shoulder with the muzzle pointing up.
In American carry, the rifle is over the strong-side shoulder with the muzzle pointing up.

A simple carry sling, or “two-point” sling, is a great choice for general-purpose use, self-defense or patrol officers. When adjusted to the proper length, the two-point sling is extremely versatile. It can be used for “African” carry, slung on the support side of the body with muzzle down, or “American” carry, on the strong side of the body with muzzle up. It can be looped over the neck to free up both hands, “scramble” carry, or around the neck and body, in “tactical” fashion. Add a quick-release buckle so you can get free of the sling quickly if necessary and you’ve got a good thing going.

Tactical Slings

I use the term “tactical sling” for any sling that is designed to be worn around the body, looped over the neck and underneath the support arm. While most people think this is a new thing, the U.S. cavalry used something similar in the mid- to late-1800s to free up their hands for riding. Today’s versions are broken down into three types: single, two-point and three-point.

The advantage of tactical slings is that, with the rifle slung, you have both hands free and the rifle is readily accessible for immediate use. Transitions to the pistol are simplified. Lower the rifle down with your support hand while presenting the pistol, and then with the rifle hanging you have the use of both hands for operating the pistol.

Any time you need both hands free, to climb a ladder or take control of a suspect, you don’t have to worry about what to do with the rifle. Plus, I’ve found that it works really well when I’m taking the dogs for their evening walk. I can control the dogs on their leash and still have access to my rifle.

The single-point sling loops around the body and attaches to the AR in one location.
The single-point loops around the body and attaches to the AR in one location.

The single-point sling attaches both ends of the sling to one point on the carbine, usually right behind the grip, forming a loop that goes around the body. The sling should fit tight to the body, so most come with an adjustment strap.

The advantage of a single-point sling is that it is easy to attach and detach from the carbine. For example, when it’s time to gear up you loop the sling around your body, then connect it to the AR. Once you’re done, perhaps ready to set the carbine in the rack, you unsnap the sling to release the carbine, leaving the sling looped around your body.

There are a couple of issues to be aware of, however, that I consider to be disadvantages of the single-point sling.

With the sling attached to the rifle right behind the grip, sometimes the sling gets in the way of your hand acquiring a proper grip or manipulating the safety. There is only one attachment point, so when the rifle is hanging and you don’t have the strong hand gripping and controlling the carbine, it will flop around and move about freely. When the AR is hanging on your body, the weight will seek the lowest point, so the sling will rotate around the body, which causes the AR to hang too low.

The stock is lower than the shoulder, requiring more movement to get into a firing position. The muzzle is low, so if you go into a kneeling position you have to take extra care to make sure the muzzle doesn’t dig into the ground. Firing with the muzzle blocked is dangerous and will damage your AR.

As with every piece of equipment there are advantages and disadvantages. You have to train, practice and experiment under all types of conditions until you discover what works best.

The two-point sling, if adjusted to the correct length, can also be used as a “tactical” sling, looping it around the neck and underneath the support-side arm.
The two-point, if adjusted to the correct length, can also be used as a “tactical” sling, looping it around the neck and underneath the support-side arm.

The two-point “tactical” sling is basically the same as the two-point carry type, only normally it’ll have features such as a slide buckle for quick adjustment of the length. The two-point sling is the most versatile, and will do about anything you need. It attaches at two points, normally the rear of the stock and the front of the handguard, creating a large loop.

Once the sling is looped around the body, you adjust the length so the stock is just below the pocket of the shoulder. You don’t want it too long, which will allow too much movement when the AR is hanging, and you don’t want it too tight, because that will restrict movement and the firing positions you can use. (The Carry Mode section goes into detail on the various carry or slinging techniques you can use.)

Three-point slings attach to the rifle at the front of the handguard, on the rear on the stock — similar to a two-point — and then have another section of sling that runs between these two sections that provides quick adjustment. For me, this extra section of sling gets in the way of manipulating the AR, inserting or removing the mag, and sometimes gets caught between the strong hand and grip.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from AR-15 Skills & Drills, now available at GunDigestStore.com.

Review: Bushmaster Minimalist Gets Back to Basics

By
Brian McCombie
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Bushmaster Minimalist gets back to basics in AR-15 designed.

The Bushmaster Minimalist returns to the origins of the AR design, offering a lightweight and nimble multipurpose rifle.

Bushmaster Minimalist Review Snapshot:

  • The new Bushmaster Minimalist offers everything you need and nothing you don't
  • Available in 5.56 NATO or .300 BLK, the Minimalist is a capable, lightweight carbine
  • With its ALG Defense Advanced Combat Trigger, the Minimalist is plenty accurate
  • Other features include AAC SquareDrop handguard and Mission First Tactical furniture

In the past several years, there has been a noticeable shift in how some AR platform rifles are being made. The shift is, in a sense, “back,” as in, back to an original concept. The AR, after all, was designed to be a lighter rifle. That might seem like a radical idea, given that I’ve hefted AR-15s, which were all of 9 pounds, unloaded, and AR-10s that could have doubled as free weights for arm curls.

Yet, as designed over 50 years ago by Eugene Stoner, the AR platform was supposed to be a light and nimble rifle, easy to carry and quick to deploy. And those design parameters are what gun manufacturers like Bushmaster are getting back to — in Bushmaster’s case with the recent debut of its new Minimalist-SD chambered in 5.56mm and .300 AAC Blackout (BLK).

I had several range sessions with a new production model Minimalist-SD in .300 BLK, as well as a three-day predator hunt with the rifle in Eastern Nevada. The Minimalist in .300 BLK is accurate, fast handling and easy to carry, in hand and with a sling. The rifle strikes me as handy enough for home-defense duties, yet still stout enough caliber-wise (in the .300 BLK) to make a good mid-range hunter for varmints, predators and larger game up to the size of deer and hogs.

Depending on the type of event, it could well be used in various shooting competitions, too.

At the Range
For my accuracy testing, I used three types of .300 BLK ammunition: Barnes’ VOR-TX with a 120-grain TAC-TX bullet; Dynamic Research Technologies’ 135-grain hollowpoint; and SIG Sauer’s Elite Performance load with the 120-grain HT bullet.

Bushmaster Minimalist's shooting range performance.

I also used a new riflescope for this phase of the testing, a Steiner P4Xi, and mounted it to the rifle with a rock-solid Alamo Four Star DLOC-M4-30MM mount. I shot the rifle at my local outdoor range, firing from a sandbagged rest; I first zeroed the Minimalist at 50 yards and then fine-tuned the rifle and scope rig at 100 yards. Accuracy testing was done at the 100-yard mark, and I have to admit I fired off my groups rather quickly, as befitting the functionality of an AR rifle.

My best overall five-shot group was with the Barnes VOR-TX ammunition, and it measured .958 inch. Overall, the Barnes also scored the tightest average groups, too, at just under 1.20 inches. The other two ammo brands punched in many five-shot groups at well under 2 inches, including a 1.12-inch group from the DRT and a 1.34-incher from the SIG Elite.

I didn’t get what I would call “tack-driving” accuracy and precision from the Minimalist, but I found the accuracy to be on par for what I normally experience with .300 BLK in ARs with 16-inch barrels.

Others might well have different experiences, but I’ve rarely found the .300 BLK in this platform to be a sub-MOA rifle. I think it’s the caliber more than anything, and for that same reason, I’d expect the Minimalist-SD in 5.56 NATO to produce noticeably tighter groups — I just find the 5.56 to be more accurate, from rifle to rifle, than the .300 BLK.

Bushmaster Minimalist in .300 Blackout.

Also, as I noted, I was firing off my groups fairly fast. So credit my fast trigger finger for somewhat larger groups (in all probability) than what would have happened had I taken more time between shots.

My Lyman Electronic Trigger Pull Gauge measured the Minimalist trigger pull at an average of 4.51 pounds. The ALG Defense Advanced Combat Trigger snaps off cleanly, with little to no overtravel, and it also resets very quickly. With its rifle-length AAC SquareDrop handguard, the Minimalist-SD allows for fast, solid attachment of accessories at seven different angles. Of course, as you are adding accessories, you are also adding weight — but at least you start off with a light rifle.

The Mission First Tactical Minimalist Stock is light, extends out easily and is comfortable. The only problem the stock represents is that the hooked butt could very well snag if you are moving through thick vegetation with the rifle held barrel forward. I had this occur a few times on my Nevada hunt and had to make sure I was carrying the rifle at port arms or with the barrel point down to avoid catching the hooked stock on the sea of sagebrush I often waded through.

The Minimalist employs a direct-impingement gas system. And it functions just fine. I shot off well in excess of 400 rounds of ammunition through my Minimalist and didn’t have a single jam up or even one extraction problem. The empty brass kicked out nicely, ending up at a consistent 5 feet or so from my shooting position.

Bushmaster Minimalist upper and lower receivers.

The Minimalist Afield
Unfortunately, the hunt I did with the Minimalist didn’t go as hoped. The Nevada coyotes we were after either did not get the memo to show up — or they received the memo and figured they were better off elsewhere! What I can say about the rifle was that it was a joy to carry on the many, many sets we did, in terrain that varied from sagebrush flats to steep foothills to muddy trails. And I really appreciated the rifle’s lack of weight at the end of our hunt when a particularly bad patch of mud grabbed up our truck and held it hostage. We had to hike it four miles, at night, back to the main road to get a ride to our motel. I was very glad I was not toting a 10-pound AR.

Leaner and Meaner
So, how did Bushmaster achieve this lightweight package, with the Minimalist-SD in .300 BLK coming in at 6 pounds, 3 ounces, and the 5.56 model at an even 6 pounds?

“The main weight savings are in the pencil-weight barrel on the 5.56,” said Adam Ballard, Bushmaster’s Senior Product Manager for Modern Sporting Rifles. “Obviously, the .300 BLK model needed a thicker barrel. But it also has a larger bore, so it’s only slightly heavier, adding just three ounces to the rifle.”

Another area where weight was pared off was the SquareDrop handguard. As Ballard noted, “It’s very slim in outer dimensions, and all the modular cutouts removed that much more material.”

Bushmaster Minimalist specsEven with trimming out a good deal of weight, Bushmaster still managed to deliver many features that might be considered upgrades on other AR’s, including a Melonite finish, an AAC 51T Blackout fast-attach silencer mount and a lightweight Mission First Tactical Grip and 30-round magazine. The 16-inch barrel is made from chrome-moly steel and is FNC treated to stand up to hard use in most field environments.

“The Minimalist-SD runs great with a silencer, too,” Ballard said, “and the rifle’s lightweight profile makes silencer use not overly tiring.”

Bushmaster decided to produce the .300 BLK models first, so that was what I received. But in April of this year, Bushmaster also began producing the 5.56 version of the rifle and shipping it to dealers.

Both rifles have the same suggested retail prices. I’m not sure if that will hold up for prices paid in-store and across the Internet; one caliber might become more popular than the other, altering the price structure. What I am sure about is that buyers will get lightweight and very functional rifles able to handle most shooting scenarios, in most shooting environments.

Editor's Note: This article is from the July 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Reloading: Sierra V-Crown Redefines Hollow Point Bullets

By
Brad Miller
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Sierra V-Crown used in SIG Sauer's ammunition.

How do the new Sierra V-Crown bullets stack up to the bullet maker's traditional jacketed hollow points?

Sierra V-Crown Bullets Snapshot

  • Loaded into SIG Sauer factory ammo, the V-Crown is also available as a component
  • Sierra V-Crown bullets feature a stacked hollow point design with another hollow cavity
  • Available in many weights, the V-Crown proved just as accurate as other Sierra JHPs

SIG Sauer introduced its own line of premium ammunition, named Elite Performance, a little while back. The line includes FMJ and JHP bullets for most common handgun calibers, and a Match load for 300 BLK (300 AAC Blackout) rifles. (Editor's Note: Since the time of this article's publication, SIG Sauer has expanded its ammunition line with several other rifle calibers, and it has also added to its pistol ammo options as well.)

The hollow point handgun bullets are named V-Crown, and are offered in most common calibers: .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9mm Luger, .357 SIG, .357 Magnum, .38 Super +P, .40 S&W, 10mm Auto, .44 Special, .44 Magnum, .45 Auto and .45 Colt. Some calibers offer several bullet weights: The 9mm Luger has 115-, 124- and 147-grain bullets; the .40 S&W has 165- and 180-grain bullets; and the .45 Auto has 185-, 200- and 230-grain bullets.

V-Crown ammunition is described thus: “The ultimate defense round delivers exceptional on-target energy, maximum weight retention, and optimal expansion at all effective distances.” The bullets have a stacked hollow point design with an additional hollow cavity. A unique toothed cannelure acts to ensure weight retention and excellent expansion.

V-Crown bullets are made by Sierra for SIG’s defensive ammo, and some versions for common semi-automatic pistol cartridges have now been made available for handloaders. These include 90-, 124- and 125-grain .355-inch bullets; a 165-grain .400-inch bullet; and a 200-grain .4515-inch bullet. The 90-grain .355-inch bullet lacks the cannelure.

The different weights of Sierra V-Crown bullets.

V-Crown bullets are a new design, and most of them have a distinctly different shape than Sierra’s traditional line of JHP bullets. Traditional Sierra JHP bullets have a truncated cone nose shape, whereas most of the V-Crown bullets have a curved nose. The exception is the 90-grain .355-inch bullet, which retains the conical nose shape.

The hollow point cavity of the Sierra V-Crown is also distinctly different than the company’s usual JHP. The traditional Sierra JHP bullets have a wide and deep hollow cavity with a flat bottom, rather like an ashtray. The V-Crown hollow cavity has sloped sides that look like they were formed with an inverted cone. The cavity leads to a small hole at the center penetrating deeper into the lead core.

The 124- and 125-grain bullets differ in an interesting way. The lighter 124-grain bullet is longer than its heavier 125-grain sibling. The nose shapes are different. The 124-grain bullet has a longer, more gradually tapered nose that would be typical of a 9mm Luger bullet. The 125-grain bullet has a shorter nose that is likely designed with the .357 SIG in mind, and it looks like the same bullet loaded in my sample of the company’s .357 SIG ammunition. SIG also loads a 125-grain bullet in its .38 Special, .38 Super and .357 Magnum ammunition.

Sierra V-Crown compared to Sierra's traditional jacketed hollow points.

I checked my box of SIG V-Crown .38 Super ammunition to see if it was the same 125-grain bullet as the .357 SIG. However, the .38 Super’s bullet does not look like the SIG bullet. Instead, it looked like the 9mm bullet with a longer nose. I pulled the .38 Super bullet, and it weighed 124 grains, not 125 grains like it says on the box. Oh well, close enough.

The nose of some V-Crown bullets appears to be a little longer than Sierra’s usual JHP bullet, which means the V-Crown can be seated to a slightly longer overall length. The benefit of a longer nose means more options for overall length. A short nose often means a short cartridge overall length for some calibers because the bullet will contact the rifling if loaded near the cartridge’s maximum overall length, so the bullet must be seated deeper to allow it to chamber. Some guns are finicky when feeding short-loaded bullets, so the longer nose of some V-Crown bullets means they can be loaded longer which can improve feeding reliability.

The length and weight of V-Crown bullets were compared to the lengths of other Sierra bullets. Sierra does not make a 200-grain .45-caliber JHP at the present. The company’s current 200-grain bullet is a jacketed flat point (JFP).

Top view of Sierra's Sierra V-Crown and traditional jacketed hollow points.

Sierra’s bullets have an excellent reputation for accuracy, and I wondered how this new design compared accuracy-wise with older designs. I compared them, where possible, with the same weight Sierra JHP bullets. For the 200-grain .45-caliber bullets, I used Sierra’s 200-grain JFP.

I loaded them up and fired a 10-round group at 25 yards with the pistol mounted in a Ransom Rest. Velocity was measured with a Shooting Chrony chronograph at about 10 feet from the muzzle.

The test guns were a Para Ordnance P14-45 for .45 Automatic, a Para Ordnance high-capacity frame with a Caspian slide and Ed Brown 5-inch barrel for .40 S&W, a Colt Government Model .38 Super and a Glock 19C for 9mm Luger. The V-Crown 90-grain bullets are intended for a .380-caliber pistol, but I did not have one suitable for these tests, so I tested them in the 9mm Glock.

None of these pistols would be considered fully “accurized.” The .40 S&W pistol has a custom top end, but the slide and frame fit was not tightened, and the Ed Brown barrel was a “drop-in” type. The Colt .38 Super had the bushing replaced because the factory bushing was a little loose. The Para Ordnance P14-45, and the Glock 19C are stock guns.

Accuracy results of Sierra V-Crown.

The group sizes with the 9mm and .40 S&W V-Crown bullets were a little smaller than their JHP counterparts. The .38 Super loads with both V-Crown bullets were slightly larger than the group with the standard JHP. The two Sierra 200-grain .45 Automatic loads produced the same group size. They were not the smallest groups, but this is about the best that this particular barrel/gun can shoot.

These new V-Crown bullets appear to have the same accuracy potential as Sierra’s standard line of bullets, which is a high bar to meet.

I asked Sierra if the company planned on making the other calibers and weights of V-Crown bullets available to reloaders in the future. They replied that they might introduce some this year. V-Crown bullets cost just a little more than Sierra’s standard JHP bullets.

It’s nice to have premium bullets available as a component. Handloaders can now duplicate SIG factory ammunition, or load the same bullet to suit their needs. V-Crown accuracy was on par with the other Sierra bullets in my pistols, so they are certainly worth trying in yours to see how they perform.

Editor's Note: This article is from the July 2016 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

5 Classic Semi-Automatic Rifles You’ve Got to Own

By
Elwood Shelton
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There’s little arguing that the 21st century has been the era of the semi-automatic rifle. The firearms world is awash in every conceivable style of gun designed to chew through ammunition as quick as your trigger finger can squeeze it out. But semis weren’t born yesterday.

Firearms innovators have been tinkering with the concept since the first self-contained cartridges were developed. Heck, the Danish Navy adopted the Madsen-Rasmussen all the way back in 1896, giving them the honor of being the first military force to formally adopt an auto-loading rifle.

With that sort of history, there is a slew of rare and common semi-automatic rifles that make dandy additions to any gun safe. But arguably there are some true masterworks — even in their modern iterations — that any diehard firearms enthusiast should pine after. With that in mind, here is a list of five classic semi-automatic rifles you’ve got to own.

A quick note about hunting down some of these guns: Do your research! There are many examples of some of the more vintage rifles on this list that look like the real McCoy, but don’t perform like them. Parts for many of these rifles abound and can be thrown together using less than desirable manufacturing processes. In turn, your hard-earned money can be wasted on what you thought was a functional rifle and turned out to be little more than an expensive wall hanger, if not worse.

Review: CZ-USA’s Polymer P-10 C Pistol

By
Frank Melloni
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After watching — waiting and studying — CZ-USA has become one of the latest to enter the polymer striker-fired pistol game with the CZ P-10 C, and the years spent waiting have paid off.

CZ-USA P-10 C Review Snapshot

  • CZ-USA has joined the list of manufacturers offering a striker-fired polymer pistol
  • The new P-10 C offers excellent grip ergonomics and is highly shootable
  • The P-10 C's crisp, striker-fired trigger means it's capable of respectable accuracy
  • CZ's new pistol proved reliable with a host of ammunition, including steel-cased ammo

With nearly every major handgun manufacturer now offering a striker-fired polymer pistol, the wait for CZ’s offering has been excruciating. After its reveal in late 2016, fans of the famed Czech manufacturer have been standing idly by to get their hands on the newest addition to not only CZ, but to the world of polymer pistols. Having the advantage of time, CZ put a lot of thought into their design and made sure to include all of the features that have been a hit to the market — in their own style, of course.

CZ P-10 C review - 1Focused On Feel
Maintaining the notorious CZ grip angle, the P-10 C is built with “feel” as its primary attribute. The angle is my personal preference, simply because it’s not too steep and it points naturally. Arguably, the aspect of grip angle is 100 percent based on shooter preference, but I certainly know more shooters who prefer sharp over obtuse.

The grip also offers a mild palm swell that dials back what Walther and Smith and Wesson started with their PPQ and M&P, respectively. I’m not saying it’s better or worse, but it’s nice to have something different in the gun case when it comes time to make a selection.

Those with “less pronounced thumb muscles” will find that the P-10 C fits very well. If you have the hands of a gorilla like me, you might find that your trigger finger falls a bit too far for automatic placement of the first pad on the face of the trigger. That said, the included three interchangeable back straps will help each shooter tailor that a bit to their needs.

Regardless of your hands’ features, the deep beavertail places your grip very far forward in comparison to other pistols, and that makes recoil recovery an easy proposition. This works in conjunction with the undercut trigger guard and makes returning to target for fast double taps effortless.

CZ P-10 C review - 2The new Czech polymer sports an aggressive studded grip both around the magwell and on the frame to act as a nice landing pad for a shooter’s thumbs. My style of teaching revolves around shooters being able to identify a proper grip by feel and committing certain textures to muscle memory. In other words, when a shooter’s grip is proper, they should feel certain parts of the gun in certain places on their hands. I found this feature to be superb for this purpose.

Anyone familiar with my work knows that I give extra kudos to any manufacturer that acknowledges the other 11 percent of the community — those often-forgotten southpaws — and puts features like this on both sides of the gun. This is not only nice for lefties, but let’s face it: USPSA, IDPA and real life aren’t always shot “strong-handed.”

Also as a nod to the southpaw, you’ll find an ambidextrous mag release and slide stop. Being fully ambidextrous out of the box just makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint, and it’s nice to see this idea catch on.

CZ P-10 C review - 3The Topnotch Trigger
Although it’s taken CZ years to catch up with its competitors in the poly-striker game, the manufacturer appears to have been paying much attention to the other guys’ triggers. With a traditional “safety in trigger” setup, there’s no learning curve on the P-10 C. The new offering also utilizes a relatively straight trigger, much like those found on many of the company’s tactical pistols.

The trigger broke at an average of 4 pounds, 6 ounces as per my Lyman digital trigger pull scale. The break had just a hair of creep to it and reset at about 0.25 inch of travel. As per my testing to date, that puts it second only to the Walther PPQ.

CZ P-10 C review - 4Rounds Downrange
Excited to put some rounds through it, I slapped the pistol into a Safariland Pro-Fit multi-gun holster and hit the range. I utilized five different types of ammo with projectile weights as light as 85 grains and as heavy as 147 grains.

I fired five three-shot groups with each load and allowed the gun to cool in between types of ammo. All groups were fired in a standing position without the use of a rest, simply because any handgun that needs to be shot from a bench to produce reasonable groups is useless. To some degree, comfort or “shootability” needs to be taken into account as well when critiquing a pistol’s accuracy.

The loads selected were HPR’s Black Ops 85-grain OTF, Wolf’s Polyformance 115-grain FMJ, Black Hills’ 124-grain JHP, Hornady’s Critical Duty 135-grain FlexLock, and Hornady’s Custom 147-grain XTP. Accuracy was on par with other guns of this class.

The P-10 C seemed to prefer the heavier bullets, as groups got almost increasingly smaller with increased bullet weight. The best group was fired with Hornady’s Custom 147-grain XTP round, measuring just .956 inch. We also observed very repeatable consistency with Black Hills’ 124-grain JHP.

In addition to this, I was very pleased to see flawless function and respectable accuracy with Wolf’s Polyformance steel-cased ammo. It’s no secret that I’m a steel-cased advocate, and I don’t consider a gun usable if it cannot reliably fire it.

Also, digesting mag after mag gave me plenty of practice reloading. Reloads were instinctual, which is something I attribute to the grip angle; however, the magazines did not drop free. With some lubrication and use I did see some improvement, but I would’ve liked to see them whizz out of the magwell right out of the box. Further research shows that my results weren’t typical, so I wasn’t too upset and can attribute this to being part of the break-in period.

As for sights, CZ’s new P-10 C has a standard three-dot setup with an enlarged rear notch. The oversized rear notch allows for faster sight acquisition at what many would argue comes at the cost of accuracy. With the employment of a cold hammer-forged barrel and good ergonomics, I wasn’t too deterred by this, and the resulting groups proved that they struck a good balance. Double taps were also very accurate, as the overall design reduces muzzle flip and puts you right back on target without any effort.

CZ P-10 C review - 5The Takedown
Keeping it simple, the P-10 C takes down like most any other polymer striker-fired handgun. Once you’re certain that the pistol is unloaded and the magazine is removed, pull the trigger and hold it to the rear. With the trigger still depressed, pull the slide back slightly. Once it’s in the correct spot, you’ll be able to push down the disassembly buttons on each side of the frame, at which point the slide assembly will come all the way forward and slip right off of the frame.

This will now allow you to remove the guide rod/spring assembly and the barrel. Clean the fouling and lube where metal meets metal, and you are essentially finished. Reinsert your barrel and guide rod/spring, and then all that’s left is to move the slide assembly to the rear of the frame and it will lock back up.

CZ P-10 C review - 6The Breakdown
I think CZ definitely put a player into the game of poly guns with the P-10 C, and one would certainly be making a mistake if he or she doesn’t put some rounds through one when selecting a pistol of this style and size. I would’ve liked to see a game-changing reset and trigger pull weight, but it’s certainly one of the better available triggers out of the box.
Ergonomics were outstanding, and I feel that it was a great move to keep the palm swell modest, as it makes it stand out from its competitors who swing at the other end of the spectrum with this feature. I liked that the P-10 C fits many Glock holsters, as the introduction of new guns to the market is almost useless if a shooter cannot carry or compete with one.

Send some rounds through one yourself before deciding on what perfection means to you.

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the 2017 Concealed Carry Special issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

AK Upgrades To Trick Out Your Kalashnikov

By
Drew Warden
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0
AK Upgrades - feat
Photo courtesy Magpul Industries.

Take your Kalashnikov rifle to the next level with these functional and ergonomic AK upgrades.

The AR is to many the definition of a fully customizable, modular weapon platform. Stocks, grips, triggers, safeties, charging handles, handguards or even entire uppers — pretty much any part on the rifle — can be swapped out or exchanged with relative ease, and manufacturers produce an abundance of aftermarket parts to do just that.  

Customizing the AK-47 and its variants, on the other hand, can be a bit more challenging. The aftermarket for AK upgrades and parts has been more limited in the past, and the AK’s design is less conducive to customization, with the original rifle being designed in an era in which iron sights were good enough for the average soldier and a wood stock and furniture were all that were needed.

Additionally, many AK owners simply prefer the rifle with its traditional wood furniture and iron sights, with some purists going so far as to mock those choosing to modify their AK. Memes even exist that strongly dismiss the notion of upgrading or customizing the AK-47 in any way and have made the rounds online in blogs and forums.

Thankfully, not everyone feels this way, and manufacturers offer an assortment of products that help shooters take the AK to the next level. While the AK certainly doesn’t have the same degree of modularity as the AR or as large of an aftermarket parts selection, there are still plenty of accessory options and AK upgrades for owners to choose from, and the choices are only continuing to grow each year.

Take a look at this list of accessories and ways to improve performance and functionality from your AK-style rifle. It's by no means comprehensive, but should be plenty to pique an AK owner's interest.

AK Upgrades:

Editor's Note: This roundup does not cover optics mounts. For info on the various side rail optics mounts available for AK-pattern rifles, check out Jim Grant’s article on optics mounting options for the AK.

1. Triggers
One of the best ways to upgrade any rifle and increase accuracy is to install a better trigger, and the AK is no exception. While the AK-47 and its variants have never been known for astounding accuracy, some of the factory-installed triggers that come standard don’t do them any favors. Several manufacturers offer improved trigger groups for the AK platform that will help you get more hits on target.

AK Upgrades- TAPCO G2TAPCO INTRAFUSE AK G2 Trigger Group
The G2 Trigger Groups available from TAPCO offer an improved trigger pull between 3-4 pounds and eliminate the uncomfortable trigger slap common with other designs. A “no fumble” trigger sleeve allows for assembling the group outside of the rifle and simply dropping it in as one piece. Trigger groups are available in single- or double-hook options and are manufactured using heat-treated, 4140 tool-grade carbon steel. ($32.99; TAPCO.com)

AK Upgrades - Century RAK-1Century Arms RAK-1 Enhanced Trigger Group
Century Arms’ RAK-1 Enhanced Trigger Groups are available for WASR, C39, RAS47, AK63DS and many other standard AK-style rifles and pistol variants, as well as for N-PAP, O-PAP, M90 NP, M92 PV and other Yugo AK variants. The trigger is 100 percent American made and has passed a 15,000-round endurance test. Each group includes a hammer, trigger and disconnector, and, thus, constitutes three U.S. 922r compliant parts. ($39.99; CenturyArms.com)

2. Grips
While less critical than a good trigger, a grip that is comfortable and conforms to your hand well is important. Some feel that the standard factory grip on many AKs just isn’t the right fit. Luckily, grips are a common upgrade for the AK platform, and plenty of manufacturers offer different grip options.

AK Upgrades - Hogue gripHogue AK-47/AK-74 Rubber Grip
Hogue is well known for its handgun grips, but the company also produces grips for tactical rifles like the AK. This OverMolded grip uses Hogue’s famed orthopedic handshape with compound swells and naturally proportioned finger grooves and has the manufacturer’s Cobblestone texture for a non-slip, non-irritating grip. The grip is impervious to oils and solvents and has a compartment for storage. The 922r-compliant part is available for Chinese, Russian and Yugoslavian AKs. ($26.95-$39.95; HogueInc.com)

AK Upgrades - TAPCO AK SAWTAPCO INTRAFUSE AK SAW Style Pistol Grip
This pistol grip from TAPCO offers AK users a more ergonomic, angled grip similar to that found on the military’s M249 SAW light machine gun. The grip’s more severe angle and increased width provide the shooter with improved comfort and control when firing the rifle. It is made of a high-strength composite and houses a storage compartment for spare tools and cleaning supplies. ($19.99; TAPCO.com)

3. Stocks
Replacing the stock on your AK is another easy way to improve ergonomics, and tons of manufacturers produce stocks for the rifle. Abundant stock options range from synthetic or wood fixed to metallic folding and adjustable, polymer. Add in adapters that allow your AK to accept any AR-type stock that fits a standard AR buffer tube and the options are nearly endless.

AK Upgrades - TimberSmith StockTimberSmith Premium Wooden Stocks
For those who want a new stock to replace an old, possibly damaged factory one but who want to keep the AK’s classic look, TimberSmith has several wooden furniture options for Romanian AKs. The stock sets are quite stylish, offering a “like-new” appearance without moving away from the traditional look. Color options include Black Laminate, Brown Laminate, Hardwood and an elegant Red Laminate.
($145-$160; TimberSmithUSA.com)

AK Upgrades - TAPCO AK folderTAPCO INTRAFUSE AK Folding Stock
This stock is made from a high-strength composite and folds to the right, allowing you to reduce the overall length of the firearm when needed for storage or close quarter engagements. The AK Folding Stock incorporates a sling attachment point in the knuckle and has a 15-inch length of pull. It fits standard, single-tang, stamped receivers only. ($39.99; TAPCO.com)

AK Upgrades - Command Arms stock adapterCommand Arms AK47SFSP Stock Tube
This stock tube from Command Arms allows you to take advantage of the vast number of AR-15/M4 buffer tube type stocks on the market. Capable of attaching to most AK-style rifles with Saiga stamped receivers, the AK47SFSP (Side-Folding, Six-Position) Stock Tube allows for any standard commercial AR-style stock to be added to your AK. The stock tube is ambidextrous, easy to operate and quick to install, making it a great option for any shooter. ($124.99; CommandArms.com)

AK Upgrades - Magpul Zhukov -SMagpul Zhukov-S Stock
This innovative polymer, folding, collapsible stock comes with QD sling mounts, modular cheek risers and a shock-absorbing rubber buttpad. It has five positions for length of pull adjustment and folds to the right. Users can still charge and fire the rifle when the stock is folded, and positive detents prevent unwanted movement. The Zhukov-S fits common stamped-receiver AKs, and a Yugo variant model is also available. Magpul's MOE is another good option, if you prefer a fixed stock. ($99.95; Magpul.com)

4. Handguards/Forends
While it might not be as easy to swap out a handguard or forend on an AK as it is on an AR, and some fitting may be required, it’s certainly a worthwhile upgrade for those who do so. Most stock AK forends do not have attachment points for accessories or optics. The majority of aftermarket AK handguards and forends do, either in the form of Picatinny rail sections or KeyMod or M-Lok attachment points. This gives users tons of customization options — far more than would be possible otherwise. Additionally, some aftermarket handguards/forends just feel better than those that come standard. For either reason, an upgraded handguard is a good choice if you're looking to trick out your rifle.

AK Upgrades - Krebs Custom UFMKrebs Custom UFM KeyMod System
Marc Krebs has been doing some really innovative things with the AK platform for a number of years, and the company’s UFM KeyMod System represents one such product. With models available for the different AK variants, this system offers a lightweight handguard with ample mounting possibilities that is durable and maintains zero. Manufactured from 6061 T6 aluminum, it features a Picatinny rail up top and KeyMod slots on the side and bottom. ($159.99-$264.99; KrebsCustom.com)

AK Upgrades - Hogue ForendHogue AK-47/AK-74 Handguard
This handguard features an OverMolded lower piece with metal shield for secure and comfortable grip and protection from heat during extended firing sessions. It comes with two upper handguard pieces — one with a top rail and one without. Available for Chinese, Russian and Yugoslavian AKs, the Hogue handguard also includes three Picatinny rail sections for additional options. Both this handguard and Hogue’s AK pistol grip are available in a combo kit. Color options are Black, OD Green, FDE and Ghillie Green. ($49.95 for the Handguard, $59.95 for the kit; HogueInc.com)

AK Upgrades - Troy AK BattlerailsTroy Industries AK-47 Battlerails
Troy has expanded its AK-47 Battlerails line in the last couple years to include KeyMod and M-Lok options. The new KeyMod and M-Lok Battlerails are machined from hardened aircraft aluminum with stainless steel components and finished with a Mil-Spec hardcoat anodizing for increased ruggedness. Short (10-inch) and Long (13.5-inch) versions are available, as is a 5-inch Top Rail for optics. ($124.95-$149.95; TroyInd.com)

AK Upgrades - Command Arms AK74 railCommand Arms Picatinny Hand Guard Rails System
This handguard system from CAA is designed specifically for the AK74M and AK100 series of rifles and provides four railed sections for mounting accessories, including both Picatinny and KeyMod solutions. Plus, it fits AKM and AKMS rifles. And its sturdy design maintains zero, allowing for easy field strip and maintenance. ($350; CommandArms.com)

5. Muzzle Devices
One of the easiest upgrades you can make to your AK is a new muzzle device. Many manufacturers offer brakes and other devices that are compatible with AK-style rifles, so there is plenty to choose from that will enhance the capabilities of your AK.

AK Upgrades - Troy Claymore AK brakeTroy Industries Claymore AK Muzzle Brake
Instead of directing muzzle blast and sound to the sides, as with most brakes, the Claymore pushes the blast and sound forward and away from the shooter, while retaining muzzle brake properties such as increased control. The brake has a very low dust signature and, with its durable, heat-treated ordnance steel construction, can be used as a breaching device if necessary. ($64; TroyInd.com)

AK Upgrades - Krebs Custom 4-prong hiderKrebs Custom 4 Prong Flash Suppressor
With a design thoroughly researched for effectively eliminating muzzle flash, the 4 Prong Flash Suppressor with 14x1mm left-hand threads is made from 4140 steel, is heat-treated and is designed for AKM/AK-74 pattern rifles and Saiga and VEPR rifles with threaded barrels. It weighs 2.3 ounces and has a black oxide finish. ($70; KrebsCustom.com)

6. Magazines
Another great way to improve functionality and make your AK look good in the process is to use different magazines. There are a ton of options out there for the AK platform. Many of these AK-47/AK-74 mags are produced overseas, but for those looking to buy American, there are still ample choices.

AK Upgrades - Magpul PMAGMagpul PMAG 30 AK/AKM Gen 3
Magpul’s PMAGs have a very high reputation among those in the firearm industry, and for good reason. They are lightweight, durable and highly reliable. The new Gen 3 version of the PMAG 30 AK/AKM mag features steel-reinforced locking lugs; a removable floorplate; an anti-tilt, self-lubricating, low-friction follower; and an impact- and crush-resistant polymer body with ribbed gripping surface and aggressive front and rear texture for positive grip. ($26.95; Magpul.com)

AK Upgrades - US Palm AK30US Palm AK 30 Magazine
The AK 30 magazine from US Palm is constructed of proprietary aerospace polymers but sets itself apart from many other polymer magazines with several unique features, including the lack of a removable floor plate. It also has stainless steel reinforced weapon locking interfaces and a low-friction self-cleaning polymer follower. Cleaning is as simple as placing the mag in hot, soapy water, rinsing and inverting to drain. ($19.95; USPalm.com)

AK Upgrades - Command Arms - AK MagCommand Arms AK MAG
This lightweight polymer magazine features a no-tilt, smooth action that incorporates a fluorescent orange follower. It has clear windows on both sides that indicate remaining round count with 10-, 20- and 30-round markings. The mags are Mil-Spec heat-treated and utilize a mildly textured surface on both sides for positive grip. ($27; CommandArms.com)

AK Upgrades - Century drumCentury Arms Romanian AK Drum Magazine
For those range trips where 30 rounds just isn’t enough (trust me, they do exist) Century Arms has the Romanian AK Drum Magazine. Sporting a capacity of 75 rounds, this product works with all 7.62x39mm AK-style rifles and pistols that accept high-capacity mags. It weighs 2.25 pounds unloaded and 5.05 pounds loaded. ($94.99; CenturyArms.com)

7. Other Accessories
There are some other less obvious parts and accessories for owners of an AK-style rifle to consider. Two of these are an enhanced safety lever and a retaining plate, or trigger pin retaining plate. Enhanced safety levers provide added functionality and ease of use over the AK’s standard safety lever, which some shooters find awkward to engage and disengage. A retaining plate, on the other hand, permits easier installation of fire control groups and better retains those pins.

AK Upgrades - TAPCO AK Retaining plateTAPCO AK Retaining Plate
This AK Retaining Plate installs in seconds, quickly securing pins in the correct position to keep the trigger group in place. The plate works in almost all AKs, including the Tantal version, and is finished in a phosphate coating for durability. ($5.99; TAPCO.com)

AK Upgrades - Krebs Custom retaining plateKrebs Custom Trigger Pin Retaining Plate
This retaining plate is precision-manufactured from heat-treated steel alloy. It is far superior to the typical “shepherds hook” for retaining fire control parts. Krebs also has a version for Saiga-style shotguns. ($10.50; KrebsCustom.com)

AK Upgrades - Krebs Custom Mk7 safetyKrebs Custom Mk VII Enhanced Safety Lever
The Mk VII Enhanced Safety Lever allows for ambidextrous use and permits activation without removing the hand from the firing position. Lefties engage and disengage the safety using their thumb, while right-handed shooters use their index finger. The device will work on both machined- and stamped-receiver rifles and requires no modification. It will not, however, fit Yugoslavian AKs. ($65; KrebsCustom.com)

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from the May 2016 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Five Guns You Need To Know From The American Revolution

By
Elwood Shelton
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0

From the “shot heard around the world” to the decisive victory at Yorktown, America was forged to the sound of musket volley. While some of the firearms used in the American Revolution still capture the imagination and stir the heart, there are some that over time have slipped into the shadows of history. We aim to wake the ghosts from Concord, Trenton and Saratoga with the five guns you need to know from this definitive moment in time.

British Land Pattern Musket

The American Revolution's most used firearm, the Brown Bess.While the American Revolution had more storied firearms, this .75-caliber smoothbore was the workhorse in founding the nation and trying to prevent its foundation. Better known today as the “Brown Bess,” the muzzle-loading flintlock was the most common arm of the war, utilized heavily by both sides of the conflict.

The musket was British in origin and came about during an era when armies began to standardize their firearms. And it was common among the Colonists before the war, who were mandated by the crown to be armed for their own defense. The reliable long gun also had an extensive history, serving the British Army from 1722 through to 1838 and even showing up in later American conflicts, such as the Mexican-American War.

Bess was fairly accurate compared to other muskets of the time, but by today's standards it would be considered laughably imprecise. By one estimate, less than a quarter of the shots fired by a soldier reached their intended targets. It pays to rifle a bore. 

Tactically speaking, Bess was never intended to send a single lead ball at an individual target. Like all muskets, it was fired en mass at opposing forces with volume making up for inaccuracy.

Volume of fire was the reason why the musket was the preferred military long gun of the day. The smoothbore allowed for quick loading — particularly since it was typical to use balls smaller than the bore. By most accounts, a trained solider could get off three aimed shots with the musket in a minute, maybe four if he was steady of nerve and quick with his ram rod.

American Long Rifle

Patriot militia used the the American Long Rifle to good effect in the American Revolution.Perhaps no single muzzleloader stirs the American imagination more than the American Long Rifle. Just the mention of what’s better known now as the Kentucky Rifle conjures up images of Colonists picking off Red Coats at distance.

The accurate flintlock did play that role in America's struggle for independence, perhaps most notably in the Battle of Kings Mountain and Battle of Saratoga. But overall its part was small compared to that of the musket. Typically, it was found in the hands of patriot militia, designated snipers or light infantry units.

Despite extending a soldier’s effective range past 200 yards, accurately mind you, it has a couple of gaping holes that stymied wider adoption as a battle rifle. Compared to muskets, the .40- to .50-caliber rifles were more difficult and time consuming to load, due to the patch, powder and ball all being separate. The grooves could foul after a number of shots and would require cleaning to regain accuracy. And they were incompatible with bayonets, which made a rifleman turn to his knife or tomahawk — undesirably so — upon an infantry charge.

Nevertheless, the American Long Rifle did enough damage during the American Revolution to earn a place in the Nation’s heart and mythology.

Pattern 1776 Infantry Rifle

The "turncoat" rifle was sparsely used in the American Revolution, but did see action in most battles.
Photo: MLAGB

Despite only 1,000 being built for the British Army, this flintlock rifle did see a fair share of action. They were issued to light companies of each regiment, as well as the Queen’s Rangers, and were likely present at most battles in the war. The “turncoat” rifle also shows the impact the American Long Rifle had on the war, with the 1776 being ordered to counter Colonist marksmen.

Designed by William Grice, and manufactured in Germany, the rifle (like the American Long Rifle) was patterned after the German Jäger rifle. Like the American Long Rifle, the Pattern 1776 vastly extended the range of a British soldier, who would could hit a target 200 yards out with the muzzle-loader. The .62-caliber rifles had a swamped octagon barrel 30 inches long and a hooked breech, but did not have a raised cheekpiece like the Jäger.

As a sidenote, if you have a Pattern 1776 hidden up in your attic, take care of it. Given the limited original stock, it is a extremely rare firearm — only nine are known of today.

Ferguson Rifle

The Ferguson Rifle made its debut in the American Revolution, but made little impact.Of all the firearms on this list, the Ferguson Rifle saw the least amount of action in the American Revolution. Lucky for us Yanks.

Designed by Major Patrick Ferguson, it was the first breech-loading rifle adopted by any military. While not the first breech-loader of its time, it had a major advantage over its contemporaries. It took one revolution of the .65-caliber's trigger guard to open the breech, where similar firearms took 11.

This design feature made for an extremely fast-firing and accurate firearm. It could pitch up to six shots per minute to a musket's three or four. Not to mention it was much more accurate fire, given the Ferguson’s rifling; it could hit a target at 200 yards and a bullseye at 100. Also of note, the rifle could be fired and reloaded from the prone position, as compared to muzzleloaders.

But outside of an experimental military unit formed and led by Ferguson, later disbanded during the war, the rifle saw little action in the American Revolution. It had an inauspicious debut in the Battle of Brandywine, with Ferguson’s rifle corps taking heavy losses.

Its initial performance, however, wasn't what did the rifle in. It was never adopted because of the manufacturing intricacies and cost, thankfully. With time to master the weapon and put it into wide use, the British had what looks to be a potential game-changer in their hands.

Charleville Musket

Yanks got a helping hand from the French in the American Revolution with the Charleville Musket.The primary arm of the French Army during the American Revolution, the Yanks also got behind the business end of the Charleville. The long gun is more correctly called the French Infantry or Pattern Musket. But Charleville stuck, since it was manufactured at the French armory in Charleville-Mézières, Ardennes. 

The musket was .69 caliber, and performed like most of its compatriots of the time — fairly inaccurately. That’s the breaks of being a smoothbore. But it was considered by some to be superior to the Brown Bess, simply because it was slightly smaller, thus lighter than the British Musket — a function of its smaller caliber. But, honestly, who's counting ounces on firearms that weigh in at or near 10 pounds?

The Colonists received a total of 48,000 of the Model 1760 Charleville for their struggle against the British.

How-To: Customizing the Remington 870

By
Steve Sieberts
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7

The Remington 870 pump action has been used as a standard police model for decades. But as good as this gun is, it can always be improved by the application of aftermarket parts and the ingenuity of a custom gunsmith.

Setting up a Remington 870 shotgun for defense is easier than you may think. Keep in mind that this gun can also be used in 3-Gun competition in the Heavy Metal Division, where the only firearms allowed are 12-gauge pump shotguns, .308 rifles and .45 ACP handguns.

For the project shotgun, I selected the Scattergun Technologies ghost ring sights with tritium inserts, a sidesaddle shell carrier, Timney sear, Vang systems oversized safety button, Magpul buttstock with spacer system and raised cheekpiece and a Surefire 6V tactical forend light. I also selected a Trulock tactical breacher combination muzzle brake and stand-off, an extended magazine tube, Kick-Eez recoil pad and opted to Mag-na-port the barrel and add a Blackhawk! sling.

Since the rear sight on this gun has to be precisely located, I sent the gun off to Accurate Plating to have them drill and tap the rear sight holes on their milling machine. This could be performed on a drill press, but it can get a little tricky, especially with a small bench drill press.

Upgrading The Trigger Group

Once the receiver came back, I turned to the trigger group. I wanted to install the excellent Timney sear unit, which comes with three sear springs to set the trigger pull to the weight desired. I chose the mid-weight spring for a trigger pull of about 3 pounds.

To install the trigger, drive out the two trigger group retaining pins, and lift out the trigger group. Compress and lift out the sear spring, and remove the shell lifter by disengaging the c-clip and pushing out the lifter retaining pin.

Be careful to retain the carrier dog and spring. Then drive out the sear retaining pin.

Replace the sear with the Timney unit, and press in the sear retaining pin. Then, using the Silver Bullet, press in the large carrier retaining pin, and replace the c-clip.

Replacing the safety is a simple matter of pushing out the retaining pin and safety, inserting the new safety and replacing the retaining pin. Be careful not to lose the spring and detent. Note that the Timney sear has a set screw that allows for small adjustment in the trigger pull weight once installed.

The sidesaddle shell carrier, ghost ring rear sight, and Magpul sling attachment are essential Model 870 upgrades.
The sidesaddle shell carrier, ghost ring rear sight and Magpul sling attachment are essential Model 870 upgrades.

Barrel and Front Sight Modifications

To modify the barrel, I opted to lengthen the forcing cone, and install a Rem Choke system so I could install the breacher muzzle brake. I first installed the Scattergun Technologies front sight, which is accomplished by mixing the included epoxy, degreasing the front sight and front sight base on the barrel after removing the front sight bead.

Apply the epoxy, wipe off the excess, and secure with a rubber band. Let it set overnight and you’re done.

Next ream the choke for the choke tube, and lengthen the forcing cone. Lengthening the forcing cone is a very common modification among shotgun competitors to reduce recoil.

Factory forcing cones have a fairly sharp angle from the chamber to the bore, which makes the shot column slam into the forcing cone when the gun is fired. The shot column slows down when it hits this sharp angle, increasing recoil force against the shooter.

Lengthening the forcing cone allows the shot column to transition from the chamber to the bore gradually. This operation can be performed by hand with a spiral flute forcing cone reamer and a tap handle, with a little cutting oil. The job should only take about 30 minutes. Flush out the chips and oil and you’re done.

Installing the Rem Choke is a little more difficult. This operation should really be done with a lathe or a floor-mounted drill press. Since this book is about projects for the home hobbyist, I reamed the choke by hand and it took about 13 hours, whereas if I would have reamed it on a lathe, it should only take about an hour.

Ream the barrel until the rear shoulder of the reamer butts up against the face of the barrel. There are calculations that need to be performed in older barrels or barrels of questionable thickness prior to any choke reaming. Be absolutely certain the barrel has sufficient wall thickness before you do any type of choke work.

The Timney sear is a great addition. The Silver Bullet is used to replace the carrier retaining pin. Don’t lose the c-clips or the carrier dog spring.
The Timney sear is a great addition. The Silver Bullet is used to replace the carrier retaining pin. Don’t lose the c-clips or the carrier dog spring.

When performing an installation of screw-in choke tubes on shotguns, and machining the barrel to accept screw-in chokes, measure the outside diameter (O.D.) with a micrometer to determine if there will be sufficient wall thickness after machining. Measure the O.D. of the barrel and the O.D. of the tap for the particular gauge.

Subtract the O.D. of the tap from that of the barrel, divide by 2, and this will give the wall thickness after machining, providing the O.D. of the barrel is concentric with the inside diameter (I.D.). A sample calculation appears below.

  • Barrel O.D. (12 Gauge)
  • Tap O.D. (12 Gauge) Win-Choke™
  • .850-.814=.036 / 2 = .018 Wall Thickness – Anything thinner than .015 wall thickness is not a candidate for screw-in chokes.

Since this is a new Remington 870 shotgun barrel, I knew it was of sufficient thickness for screw-in Rem chokes, but always measure just to be sure before proceeding. Without sufficient wall thickness the end of the barrel could blow out when the gun is fired, causing injury or death.

Before you start to ream the barrel, install the pilot onto the reamer. There are different sizes of pilots, so pick the one that gives the best fit.

Ream the muzzle until the rear shoulder of the reamer just touches the face of the barrel, then — using the same pilot — tap the threads for the breacher. The reamer has two steps, so make sure you understand that the shoulder of the reamer is the rear, or second shoulder, and ream all the way to the rear of the reamer.

Carefully follow the instructions provided by the reamer manufacturer. If performed incorrectly, the barrel muzzle can burst on the first shot due to the choke serving as an obstruction in the bore.

Again, if you are unsure of how to do this, take your gun to a qualified gunsmith and have them install your choke tube.

The breacher, also known as a stand-off, allows you to breach doors — you can press the end of the breacher against the door lock or door hinge, or both, and blow them off using a special breaching round. Fun stuff. The teeth keep the breacher from slipping off the door, and the cutouts serve as a muzzle brake to safely vent the gas sideways.

The choke reamer is used by hand, with some extra muscle from the author’s son. This job should really be done in a lathe, but can be done by hand. Once properly reamed, the tap is used to cut the threads
The choke reamer is used by hand, with some extra muscle from the author’s son. This job should really be done in a lathe, but can be done by hand. Once properly reamed, the tap is used to cut the threads

One caveat with the use of the breacher: Right now, the shotgun has an extended magazine tube that reaches almost to the end of the muzzle. This will make it a little difficult to effectively use the breacher the way it’s supposed to be used.

Since this gun is my house gun, I can leave it like that since I won’t be blowing off locks and hinges in my house anytime soon, and I want the extra rounds that the longer magazine extension provides, but if it were a dedicated breaching shotgun, I would install the shorter, two-shot magazine extension to make sure there was clearance for the breacher to make contact with door hinges without the magazine tube also hitting the door.

Stock And Forend Customizations

After installing the front sight and breacher, turn your attention to the buttstock and forend. There is a special tool to remove the forend retaining ring. Once that’s removed, you can install the Surefire tactical light onto the forend hanger and screw the ring nut down.

Put a small amount of blue Loctite to make sure the forend retaining ring doesn’t loosen up with firing. A steady diet of slugs and buckshot through the gun will generate a significant amount of recoil, and the Loctite will keep the retaining ring in place, but will also allow it to be removed later if needed.

In order to install the extended magazine tube, remove the stop pressed into the tube by the factory. This stop limits the number of shells that can be loaded into the tube.

Brownells sells two tools that can remove this detent: a dent raiser, and a magazine tube swage that both work great. I used the swage to remove the limiter in my firearm. Be sure that the limiter is completely removed, and that by using the swage, it doesn’t raise material on the outside of the tube and cause the forend to bind when cycling the action.

Usually, the swage will raise a small amount of material on the outside of the magazine tube; always check for this. I had to file the outside of the tube, and used my Foredom with a 120-grit sanding drum on the inside of the tube to eliminate the stop completely from both the outside and inside of the magazine tube.

Once removed, install the shell follower, and check to see if it binds around the area of the magazine limiter you just removed. Consider using the fluorescent shell followers that have bright visibility, telling you if the gun is empty.

The breacher, Scattergun Technologies sights, Mag-na-porting, elongated forcing cone, long mag tube, and the Surefire light are all installed.
The breacher, Scattergun Technologies sights, Mag-na-porting, elongated forcing cone, long mag tube and the Surefire light are all installed.

Next up is installing the buttstock and fitting the Kick-Eez recoil pad. Remove the old recoil pad, which will expose the buttstock mounting bolt. Remove the buttstock, and install the Magpul sling attachment, then the Magpul buttstock.

This model has a separate raised cheekpiece that can be added. It’s an important detail because the Scattergun ghost ring sight forces the head a little higher, and the cheekpiece comes in handy to get a good cheek weld when firing the gun, especially with harder kicking rounds.

The buttstock also has a spacer system to adjust the length of pull. Since I’m taller than six foot, with fairly long arms, I installed a couple of the spacers.

The Kick-Eez pad is ground and fitted as covered in the rifle section of the book. Once mounted, the buttstock installation is complete.

Install the bolt assembly and forend back into the gun, along with the barrel. Reinstall the trigger group, and with the cross bolts provided, install the sidesaddle shell carrier onto the side of the receiver.

Install the extended magazine spring into the magazine tube, and screw on the extended mag tube. I used a clamp by Blackhawk Industries that secures the extended tube to the barrel, and also provides a sling mounting point on one side, and a Picatinny rail on the other. I opted to install a two-point Blackhawk sling. Cycle the gun with dummy rounds about a dozen times, and then it’s time to go to the range.

Testing The Customized Remington 870

The combination of muzzle brake, Mag-na-porting, long forcing cones and the Kick-Eez recoil pad makes for the softest-recoiling 870 shotgun I’ve ever shot. My son and I shot the gun with a variety of loads, from #7 1/2 birdshot, to #4 buckshot, to 00 buckshot and Federal slugs in 3-inch shells.

All of them were easy to shoot, and the combination of the light, crisp trigger, Scattergun Tech ghost ring sights, and the Magpul stock made for a quick-pointing, fast shooting gun.

Firing the 870 shows how the porting and muzzle brake and lengthening the forcing cone is really effective for controlling recoil.
Firing the 870 shows how the porting and muzzle brake and lengthening the forcing cone is really effective for controlling recoil.

I waited for dusk to see if I could see some flame escaping from the barrel ports and the muzzle brake of the upgraded Model 870. I was not disappointed. The Mag-na-porting and the muzzle brake work to redirect the gas, softening and controlling recoil.

The Surefire light was very effective in lighting up targets at dusk. The light has a momentary pressure switch and a permanent on-off switch as well. This shotgun is now ready for tactical, home defense or 3-Gun competition.

The article is an excerpt from Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms available at GunDigestStore.com.

New Optic: Nikon’s 6-24x50SF BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA

By
Elwood Shelton
-
0

BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA

Economically priced and long on features, Nikon's 6-24x50SF BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA riflescope looks to be an on-target long-range optic.

Whether it’s a precision shooting competition or just banging a steel gong from the next zip code, the long-range shooting game has never been more popular. Of course, those yearning to tap tacks from 1,000 yards out — heck even more — typically have one giant hurdle to get over: cost.

Red ink flows like a river when you’re talking custom stocks, precision actions and cut-rifled barrels. Heck, even off-the-rack dedicated long-distance rifles have price tags that make most everyday shooters wince like they’re shooting trap with a punt gun. Fortunately, there has been some easing of the pecuniary burdens of shooting a country mile, with some of the bigger manufacturers offering relatively more financially sane options in building a dream precision rifle.

BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA

Nikon appears to have just this segment of shooters in its sights with the introduction of the latest addition to its BLACK riflescope series. The 6-24x50SF BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA looks to have the chops to get shooters on target from way out, while not sending them to the marksman’s poorhouse in the process. With an MSRP of $649.95, the scope definitely falls at the affordable end of the long-range market, and it doesn’t look to skimp on features and performance along the way.

Perhaps the most eye-catching aspect of the BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA scope is its Matte Illuminated X-MOA reticle. The tactical-style reticle has 10 intensities, with an off function between each setting, allowing shooters to adjust to any light conditions.

The .15 MOA crosshairs have five subtensions at 2.0 MOA increments, giving the ability for fast holdover and bullet-drop compensations. However, the reticle is etched on the second focal plane; in turn, accurate ranging and other measurements should be done at a predetermined magnification.

The scope has a total of 60 MOA of adjustments, easily dialed in at ¼ MOA-per-click increments. The scope is reset by simply pulling up on the turret and rotating it to zero. Necessary on a scope destined for long-range work, the BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA also comes with a side parallax adjustment that can be tuned from 50 yards to infinity.

BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA

As would be expected on any decent scope, Nikon’s new offering is multi-coated on each lens surface to provide better light transmission. And with a 50mm objective lens, it should provide excellent light gathering capabilities overall, except in the dimmest conditions at the highest magnification. As well, the BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA is ruggedly constructed with a 30mm main body tube made of aircraft-grade aluminum.

The BLACK X1000 IL X-MOA certainly looks to have the bells and whistles to get the job done. And at the same tick, it allows for a little pocket change for ammunition.

Concealed Carry Sights: Which Are Best For Your Gun?

By
Dick Jones
-
2
White outline sights offer good visibility even in very low light because they are a bold white shape that catches the eye.
White outline sights offer good visibility even in very low light because they are a bold white shape that catches the eye.

Nothing goes further to ensure you hit center mass than the right sights on your concealed carry handgun. But of all the options, which is the best?

I was in a local gun shop recently when the discussion turned to the viability of lasers for concealed carry guns. One proponent of the laser explained they were the greatest things since sliced bread, something that could allow any novice to shoot like a professional.

The other saw them as the work of the devil, a high-tech contraption that would likely fail at the moment the owner needed it most, leaving the victim standing and staring at a gun that was useless without a laser because it was the only way he could hit a target.

Both opinions are wrong.

Gun Digest Guide To Concealed Carry Handguns, a comprehensive and up-to-date buyer’s guide to concealed carry handguns available anywhere.

As both a shooting instructor who teaches concealed carry certification and a gun writer, I suffer from a form of double indemnity. For some reason, I seem to get into the center of arguments about what constitutes the best options for concealed carry, and these days this is a hot topic.

Practical Sight Considerations
Besides the normal semi-auto versus revolver and high-capacity versus smaller, thinner gun issues, the discussion often turns to sights. After all, the sights are hopefully the only interface between the defender and the assailant.

Before we get too far into the sight issue though, remember that the average distance for a firearm defense occurrence is less than three yards. It should also be remembered that a full extension of the arms to get a proper sight picture at short distance often puts the gun as close to the assailant as it is to the defender.

In really close quarters, extending the arms to get a proper sight picture increases the defender’s level of danger because it can put the gun in easy reach of the attacker. In these situations, conventional sights have no value at all, since they can’t be safely aligned with the eye.

While this obviously leads to thoughts of lasers, lasers shouldn’t be the only viable option available to the concealed carry defender, because lasers are not as effective in bright light conditions. It’s true that 70 percent of defensive situations occur in low light, and green lasers are much more effective in bright light, but conventional sights on a defensive gun shouldn’t be discounted. Even if your gun has a laser, you should do most of your practice with the iron sights.

Lasers are electronic devices, as is the computer I’m writing this on. If your computer never gives you problems, you’ll probably never have a problem with a laser sight because they’re hundreds of times more reliable than my laptop. Still, there’s the potential for the unit to fail or have the light blocked by debris, or for you to fail to properly maintain the batteries.

Standard sights on many carry guns involve a simple groove milled across the top of the gun and a ramp front sight at the front. Systems like this are snag-free, a benefit with carry guns that are often in close proximity with clothing.
Standard sights on many carry guns involve a simple groove milled across the top of the gun and a ramp front sight at the front. Systems like this are snag-free, a benefit with carry guns that are often in close proximity with clothing.

Comparing Irons
Considering the less high-tech methods of sighting a defensive handgun, there are compromises to be made. Good sights that are easy to see and maintain an excellent sight picture are always large.

Large sights don’t generally work well on concealed carry guns because they increase the gun’s profile and increase the chance of snagging on clothing or carry devices. Small, easily concealed sights carry well, but are difficult to see in less-than-optimal light conditions.

The most unobtrusive sight system for a small gun is a simple trench milled the length of the slide or topstrap. This is the prevailing system for small revolvers as a rear sight; it’s normally paired with a ramp front sight, and it works quite well.

In my Concealed Carry Brushup classes, where all the shooting is done at ranges shorter than seven yards, I like to stop the class if a fly or bee lands on a target. I then use my personal carry gun to shoot the fly.

If it’s less than five yards, I’m almost always successful. Even if I miss at seven yards, the shot is so close the impression remains. You can shoot very well with crude sights if you focus on the front sight and get good sight alignment.

Unfortunately, sometimes point-of-aim and point-of-impact don’t agree, and there are few options when this happens with fixed sights. If a gun has fixed sights and doesn’t shoot where you point it, you have to decide if you’re willing to live with it, but remember; almost all concealed carry defense situations happen within seven yards.

There are some excellent small revolvers with adjustable sights available, but they may not fit your requirements for concealability. There are-high visibility options on some small revolvers, and they have merit. The hi-vis options offer a gain in visibility, but often there’s a slight loss in concealability.

Tritium sights actually glow in the dark, showing up in total darkness. In moderately low light situations they have little advantage if any, over simple white outline sights.
Tritium sights actually glow in the dark, showing up in total darkness. In moderately low-light situations they have little advantage if any, over simple white outline sights.

While I don’t like white outline or dot sights for competition, I like them for defense guns. Competition is generally done in good light, at targets with excellent contrast.

Defensive situations rarely offer these luxuries. Bright white outlines show up in low light and can allow a better sight picture. For guns with dovetailed sight mounting, aftermarket options also include both fiber optic and tritium replacement sights at a very reasonable cost. Fiber optic sights gather light to increase sight visibility.

Tritium sights contain a small amount of tritium. The electrons emitted by the radioactive decay of the tritium cause phosphor to glow, thus providing a long-lasting (several years) and non-battery-powered firearms sight that’s visible in dim lighting conditions. Under bright light, white outline, dot sights and fiber optic sights show brighter than tritium, but under very low light tritium has an advantage, even showing up in total darkness when white or fiber optic sights would be invisible.

Laser Sights
Of course, the other options that work really well in low light are laser sighting systems. My reaction when I first saw lasers was skepticism because I imagined they were a total replacement for standard sights.

For life-and-death situations, I don’t like total dependence on anything that runs on a battery. I have since changed my mind.

While responsible defensive firearms owners need to be able to shoot well with iron sights, a laser offers accurate shooting under the low light that most defensive confrontations involve. They also provide the possibility for accurate shot placement when the defender simply can’t align the sights with his eye because doing so gives the assailant too much access to the gun.

Fiber optic high-visibility sights gather available light to catch the user’s eye. Unfortunately, they do little in really low light situations.
Fiber optic high-visibility sights gather available light to catch the user’s eye. Unfortunately, they do little in really low light situations.

A properly aligned laser can provide a greater level of accuracy than most shooters can muster otherwise. They’re reliable and operate automatically in many cases. There have been arguments that lasers expose the defender to the assailant, but in a very high percentage of defensive situations, the assailant already knows exactly where his victim is. Another argument is that the defender will learn to rely only on the laser and be confused if it fails to operate.

While both are possibilities, the advantages of accurate shot placement under low light, or while the gun is kept close to the shooter, outweigh them. I teach my students to align the laser to shoot just below the point of impact and aim. This prevents them from seeing the laser in practice sessions, yet it’s still there if conditions are bad enough they can’t get proper sight alignment.

I only carry guns equipped with laser grip sights. They are unobtrusive and have no effect on holsters and carry methods.

I use the iron sights in practice and set the laser just under the front sight so I can’t see it in practice. In really low-light situations and in situations where light is low and the shot is rushed, there is nothing better than a laser.

Laser alignment is simple, though the first time might be a bit tricky. After the laser is installed, and everything is correct and tight, focus on a perfect sight picture and move the laser beam to the point of aim at the desired distance. This can be done without shooting the gun, provided the gun shoots where it’s aimed.

Then shoot the gun using the laser to confirm the zero. To check the alignment at any time, simply aim at a point on the target and see if the laser co-witnesses it.

Another thing to remember with lasers is they normally have a substantial offset from the bore. Properly set, a laser sight on a pistol should intersect with the point of impact at about 25 yards.

This will allow accurate shooting beyond that distance yet the difference in point of impact at closer ranges will barely be impacted. With good ammunition and a rest, a carry gun can shoot 3-inch groups at 25 yards using a laser in low light.

In really low light or when there’s no room for an extended sight picture, nothing beats a laser.
In really low light or when there’s no room for an extended sight picture, nothing beats a laser.

There are two primary ways lasers are mounted on handguns. Rail or frame mounts put the laser ahead of the trigger guard, and grip-mounted lasers attach to the gun either as replacement grip panels with the laser and activation button as a part of the grip, or as an over-the-grip unit that wraps around and mounts to polymer-framed integral-grip guns.

When choosing either type, make sure the activation button is easy for you to access. I like the button on the front grip strap because activation is almost automatic, though I can consciously relax my middle finger if I want to leave it off. Rear-mounted activation can be problematic for smaller or thinner hands.

Summary
Not only are we blessed with the right to own and carry a firearm in the United States, for the most part, we have the right to choose the firearm we buy and how to accessorize it. Ultimately, no one will argue that a better sight system isn’t an advantage in a defensive situation.

A 27-shot capacity, major-caliber race gun, with a reflex sight would be much better in a gunfight than a small .380, 9mm or .38 Special. A good carbine would be even better, but a race gun or carbine is pretty hard to conceal. The trick is to look at the options, decide where you’re willing to trade off and go with what you like.

My solution for sighting options on my carry guns is to train with iron sights and add a laser sight for low-light conditions. The laser adds little weight or bulk, yet it vastly improves my ability to put the projectile where I want under conditions that are less than desirable.

I know in bright light and with adequate room, a traditional sight picture of iron sights is faster and more effective than a laser. I also know a laser is a much better sighting system in low light. I firmly believe you need to be able to shoot well with iron sights, but I’m a confirmed laser guy for carry guns.

Expand Your Knowledge on Concealed Carry

Editor's Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest Guide To Concealed Carry Handguns available at GunDigestStore.com.

New Ammo: Fusion MSR Ready to take .300 BLK Afield

By
Elwood Shelton
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0

Fusion MSR 300 BLK - 1

The 150-grain Fusion MSR is Federal Premium's first hunting-specific round for the .300 Blackout and has everything required to put meat on the table and trophies on the wall.

Once dominated by bolt-action rifles, the deer woods are now filled with a much different style of firearm. More and more hunters have embraced the virtues of AR-style rifles, from their quick follow-up shots to their downright wicked accuracy.

It makes sense then that ammunition makers have responded offering more loads for common AR calibers, each engineered to put meat on the table and trophies on the wall come hunting season. Federal Premium is among the most recent, unveiling a round tailor made for the field in a popular and versatile AR chambering.

The company’s 150-grain Fusion MSR is the first hunting-specific offering for the .300 BLK. And as an added bonus, it has been released in conjunction with an American Eagle target round that is nearly its ballistic twin. This is a nice addition that should make for a bit more affordable tuning up time at the range.

The new Fusion round should offer hunters everything they need to take down deer, hogs and the odd antelope with their .300 BLK. It is loaded to produce more than capable hunting velocities, with its muzzle velocity listed at 1,900 fps at the muzzle. More importantly, it is topped off with a projectile that should ensure an ethical kill on each trigger squeeze.

Fusion MSR 300 BLK 2

The soft-point bonded-core bullet is designed to retain a maximum of mass upon reaching its target, in turn producing a deeper and more devastating wound channel. On top of that, skiving on the copper jacket ensures full expansion, even as the boat tail's velocity wanes. This aspect is particularly attractive for the Blackout, given it loses its oomph relatively quickly compared to other .30 calibers due to its demure case capacity

Equally as important as ballistics, at least when it comes to AR-style rifles, is feeding. And Federal has turned a close eye to how its new Blackout round chambers, sizing it to cut down on the likelihood of a misfeed. This should provide peace of mind, given there’s perhaps nothing short of a broken optic that blows a golden opportunity more quickly.

Presently, Federal Premium is offering 20-count boxes of its Fusion MSR in .300 BLK. And, while running more than the average target round, with an MSRP of $25.95, it is a fairly budget-friendly hunting round.

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