What is Headspace and Why Does It Matter?

September 12, 2017

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun smithing the AR-15: The Bench Manual by Patrick Sweeney.

Learn how to check headspace and adjust headspace on your AR-15 with this guide from master gunsmith Patrick Sweeney.

What is headspace? In simple terms, it is the amount of room in the chamber for the cartridge to rest before it is discharged. The measurement is defined as the distance from the face of the bolt to what is called the “datum line,” which is a particular location on the shoulder of the chamber of a given diameter, and a stated distance from the face of the bolt. The idea is to provide enough room for the loaded round to fit, even when the rifle is dirty, choked with carbon or just not squeaky clean.

Similarly, ammunition is manufactured so the distance from the base of the cartridge to the shoulder will always fit into a chamber. The tolerances of the loaded round and the chamber into which it fits are not allowed to overlap — the largest cartridge made must fit into the smallest chamber made.

Alas, not everything can be made to exact dimensions. So, the chamber is allowed to vary slightly. Generally speaking, the allowable “drift” of the headspace dimension is 0.006, or six-thousandths of an inch. If headspace is within that spread, it is deemed to be correct.

How is headspace measured?

When it comes to the AR-15 , almost nothing exceeds the volume of misinformation as does headspace.

If someone tells you that all you need is a USGI Field gauge, stop talking to that person right now. Stop listening to anything they have to say. Just walk away. Oh, there might be useful information there. After all, you have to paw through a lot of gravel to find a nugget of gold. And telling you that a Field gauge is the only tool you need is definitely gravel.

To measure headspace, there are three kinds of instruments. One is called a “Go/No-Go” gauge. Another is a set of precisely ground and measured gauges, each .001 inch difference in size. And finally, a micrometer that looks like a headspace gauge. Each works differently.

The Go/No-Go gauge is simple. The Go gauge is manufactured to the largest size of a cartridge. If you can close the bolt on a Go gauge, things are good, as the chamber is not below minimum.

The No-Go gauge is made to be a small amount larger than the largest allowable dimension of the chamber. If a bolt closes on a No-Go gauge, the chamber is too big. But, what does that really mean? When you fire a round, the case expands to fill the chamber. If the shoulder of the chamber is forward of the shoulder of the case, the case expands to fill the chamber. The shoulder must then blow forward to fill the gap. The rear goes back to the bolt face. In the middle, brass gets stretched.

Now, in the microsecond in which this happens, it can proceed in several different ways, but the end result is the same: the case gets stretched in the middle, weakening it. This matters only to reloaders.

Re-sizing brass pushes the shoulder back to minimum (this is called the “shoulder bump” and it ensures your loaded ammo will fit your rifles) and the next time you shoot, the brass will be stretched again. The effective service life of your brass depends on how much stretching, and how much bumping you subject it to. If your headspace headspace is within accepted limits, you can get 10 or more loadings out of your brass before you start seeing neck cracks from work-hardening. If the headspace is excessive, you may only get two or three.

check-headspace — Manufacturers have to make bolts within very strict tolerances. But they still have small variances in dimension and that’s where headspace tolerances come in.

An example of this is the SMLE in .303 British. The .303 headspaces on the rim, not the case shoulder. The British Army cared not a whit about reloadability, only for reliability. I gave up reloading ammo for my various SMLEs because I could not get cases to last more than three loadings in any of them.

The U.S. Army, Marines, Air Force, and let’s not forget the Coasties, do not care about reloadability of brass. As long as the brass holds together and is ejected in a single piece, they are happy. And that is where the Field gauge comes into play. The Field gauge has been developed with one thing in mind — how large can the chamber be and still have a rifle that can be used in a wartime situation? And that is why military armorers have a Field gauge that they use commonly, rarely reaching for their Go and No-Go gauges . An armorer may have a rack filled with rifles and carbines that would easily gobble up a No-Go gauge.

Use of the Field gauge only applied to used rifles and carbines. If a brand new, fresh out of the box unfired rifle is tested, and the bolt partially closes or locks on a Field gauge, it should be sent back, even in military use.

Why then is a Field gauge not a good choice for you? In short, you aren’t going to war. You will likely be using reloaded ammo. You have an interest in making that brass last as long as possible. If you need headspace gauges, get a Go/No-Go set.

What of the others? The “thousandths” set is used to determine not just that the headspace is within tolerance, but precisely what it measures. The micrometer gauge does the same thing, but instead of having to check the fit of the gauge set, you install/assemble the micrometer set, adjust, and then read the measurement.

The cognoscenti argue over the commercial .223 versus the mil-spec 5.56 headspace gauges. I talked to Dave Manson, a maker of headspace gauges about this. His quick reply was, “Which 5.56 set?” It seems there are a whole raft of gauges and specifications out there. And that is just in the shoulder location, not including the leade, which we’ll get into in a short bit.

How much can these vary? Let’s look at a few dimensions, hunted down and laid out for your curious gaze.

Source Go No-go Field Colt factory reject/aka Field II

SAAMI 1.4636” 1.4666” 1.4696” 1.4736”
USGI 1.4646” 1.4706” 1.4730”

So, if you have a rifle chamber just over the max size, call it 1.470 inches, and your sizing die is set to bump the shoulder back to fit under the minimum chamber size, let’s call that 1.460 inches, you are working your brass .010 inches on each shot. It isn’t going to last long.

How to check headspace on your AR-15

To measure headspace you’ll need a chamber brush, cleaning rod, bolt disassembly tool and a set of headspace gauges.

Unload your rifle and separate the upper from the lower. Use the chamber brush to scrub the chamber. Clean the bore with a patch to extricate any crud you scoured out of the chamber.
Remove the extractor from the bolt. Use the bolt fixture to remove the ejector. Scrub the bolt and dry it.

At this point, don’t be tempted to just drop the gauge in, close the bolt and see what happens. The closing bolt has enough mass and leverage to close the bolt on even a No-Go gauge if you are forceful enough or let it crash forward under full spring force.That is the wrong way to be doing it. The right way is as follows.

If you have the barrel out of the receiver, life is easy. Drop the Go gauge into the chamber. Hold the bolt by the tail, and see if you can insert it into the barrel extension, rotating it in front of the locking lugs. You should be able to do this. If not, that particular bolt/barrel combo is out of tolerance, under-minimum headspace and should not be used. Which is at fault? There is no way of telling with the tools at hand. To find out, you need at a bare minimum a surface plate, standing calipers and a bolt face cylinder. The cylinder is simply smaller in diameter than the bolt face opening, and a known thickness.

Put the cylinder on the surface plate. Stand the bolt on the cylinder, and measure the distance from the surface plate (which is flat to a millionth of an inch, if you bought the good one) and then consult the bolt drawing to see what that measurement should be. Without a bolt drawing there’s no real way to know.

If the bolt and chamber accepted the Go gauge, then remove the bolt and gauge, and replace the Go with the No-Go. Try again. The bolt should not, must not, rotate to the closed position. If it does, you have excessive headspace, and as before, you don’t really know which of the two is at fault.

A quick answer, in both instances is, both of them.
What if you have the barrel already installed in an upper receiver? Go to the store and buy yourself a foot of PVC tubing. You want a piece that has a quarter-inch inside diameter, or ID. The outside diameter, or OD doesn’t really matter since you can’t buy it with walls thick enough to not fit into the upper receiver.

Stuff the tail of the bolt into the PVC tube and use the tube as a handle to hold the bolt, as you insert it into the chamber while doing the Go/No-Go test.

How to adjust headspace on your AR-15

The first thing to do, if you have the gear and parts, is check the headspace on a rifle that has worked. If you are building a rifle from parts and do not have a working rifle to check, then you need to borrow one. Or go to the gun club with your parts and tools, and ask someone if you can measure theirs.

If the other rifle checks out, then send the parts back. If the other rifle doesn’t pass muster, then check your technique. The odds of two rifles from different sources both having incorrect headspace is exceedingly low.

Back in the early days, we ran into incorrect headspace frequently, as many people who were making parts were either new or not very good at it. I also suspect that a lot of the bad parts we found at sale prices in gun shows back then were production rejects, out of spec and should never have been sold. The bad parts makers got their names bandied about enough that they either improved or quit. Now, everyone who is still in the business knows the proper bolt or barrel extension dimensions. However, you may still find some parts that do not agree.

Brand new parts should fit. If you got the bolt and barrel from the same source, contact them and arrange an exchange. They should be happy to do so. If you got them from two sources, contact each and explain the situation. See which, if either of them, will help you. Accept their help and strike the other company from your list of “doing business with” for the future.

Only in extreme circumstances should you even think about chamber reaming to adjust headspace. And then only if the barrel is stainless or un-plated carbon steel and un-returnable. You can only correct insufficient headspace by reaming. If you have excess headspace, and you cannot return the barrel, then your only other option is a session with spare bolts and your headspace gauges. Maybe you’ll find a bolt that would otherwise be too big, but will solve your excess headspace problem.

Reaming headspace

I have reamed chambers and adjusted headspace in rifles without removing the barrel from the receiver, so it can be done. Having done it, I have to tell you this: remove the barrel. The hassle of reaming the chamber with the barrel in the receiver is greater than the hassle of removing the barrel and then reaming. Plus, you can do a better job with the barrel out. So, you’ll need the barrel and bolt, the finish reamer for 5.56 (not .223 Remington) with handle, cutting lube, chamber brush and a cleaning rod and patches for the bore once you are done.

Clamp the barrel, padded, upright in your bench vise. Scrub the chamber. Strip the bolt and scrub it clean. Check the headspace, just to remind yourself what under-minimum headspace feels like. (The bolt won’t rotate closed with the Go gauge in the chamber.)

Insert the reamer in your tap handle or reamer holder. Gently lower the reamer into the chamber, and begin rotating before it contacts the shoulder. Only turn in the direction of cutting, never reverse rotation. Give the reamer two full turns once you feel contact, pull it out while still rotating, and inspect the reamer. You should see metal chips on the shoulder of the reamer. If you also see chips on the body, you’re getting a bonus in the headspace adjustment; you’ve got a narrow chamber and the reamer is correcting that. You won’t have to mess around with small-base dies when you go to learn reloading.

Swab out the chamber and recheck headspace. With a few iterations you will get to the point where you can feel the bolt lugs start to cam underneath the lugs of the barrel extension.

Repeat the two-turn cutting procedure until the bolt will just rotate closed on the Go gauge. You have minimum headspace at this point.

You now have a decision to make. You can leave it at minimum, reassemble the barrel into a rifle again, and test fire it. You’ll probably find that it is plenty reliable, and unless you insist on shooting it in miserable environmental conditions it will serve you well.

If you want it to be a little more forgiving of neglect, you have to increase headspace past minimum, but not too much. Remember, the .006 inches of gap is all you have to work with.

Measure the overall length of your Go gauge. This is not the headspace, just the length of the gauge. Now carefully apply a small piece of tape to the base of the gauge and measure again.

You have just added a few thousandths to the Go headspace, by the thickness of the tape. Do the two-turn ream again, install the taped gauge and measure.

You can, if you are careful and diligent, add a controlled number of thousandths (adding .002, .003, or .004) to the minimum headspace, and not exceed the maximum.

Once you are done, scrub the chamber. Push a clean, dry patch down the bore to get lube and metal chips out of the bore, reassemble the rifle, and go to the range to test-fire and re-zero.
Why a 5.56 reamer, and not a .223? Because you want the leade to be 5.56. If your chamber is not only under minimum, but has a .223 leade, then the headspace reaming operation will take care of both.

Excessive headspace

If you have too much headspace, and your brass stretches, then what? Basically, subjecting the same brass to excessive headspace too many times will cause it to break in the middle. You probably won’t know it, because the broken rear half will be extracted and ejected. But the next round will find the front half crammed in the chamber. The fresh round will wedge hard into the remaining piece, locking the rifle up. You’ll have a heck of a time clearing the jam.

If you are using commercially reloaded ammo , it is possible for the brass to have been abused before it got to you. If it had been fired in something with grotesquely excessive headspace, like an M249 SAW, then it would have been stretched at that time.

So, a singular event, in reloaded ammo, may not be your rifle’s fault.But check anyway.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gunsmithing the AR-15: The Bench Manual by Patrick Sweeney.

Muzzle Brakes and Flash Hiders: What’s the Difference?

Patrick Sweeney

September 12, 2017

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gunsmithing the AR-15: The Bench Manual by Patrick Sweeney.

Flash hiders and muzzle brakes (or compensators) are two types of muzzle devices, and they use gas created from firing a cartridge differently:

– Hot gases from the muzzle flash expand into the cool air, emitting photons from heat(not from burning powder). A flash hider hides most of this by creating turbulence. By mixing the cooler ambient air with the expanding bubble in a random pattern, there is no longer a large flat surface, or bubble, to glow.

– A muzzle brake jets the gases out to the sides or top, or causes them to slam into a fixed barrier, decelerating them. You can use the leverage the barrel provides, and not just negate the added gas component to recoil, but pretty much negate all the recoil. That’s what a muzzle brake does.A good muzzle brake is loud, as the gases are re-directed back at you or the guy next to you.

What does a flash hider do, and what exactly is flash?

Flash hiders keep muzzle flash down in the visible spectrum. In the infrared, they don’t do squat. In fact, a rifle may produce a visible muzzle flash only part of the time, but through a thermal scope it will flash every time. Hot gas is hot gas, even if it isn’t incandescent in the visible spectrum. A thermal scope will see it every single time.

Disregard the notion that flash is unburnt powder. If you have not combusted all the powder the case contained in its travel through 16 inches of bore, you’re using the wrong powder. In some handgun cartridges, the powder has been fully combusted before the bullet leaves the case. In rifles, the powder has all been burned by the time the bullet is 3 or 4 inches down the bore. Actually, the bright flash we see is incandescence.

The powder burns at a high pressure and temperature. The confined combustion temperature of your average rifle powder is on the order of 3,500 to 3,700 degrees, Fahrenheit. That gas leaves the muzzle in an expanding bubble. At that temperature, the gas is incandescent and the glow happens to be in a part of the spectrum we can see.

Also, the uncorking pressure of rifle ammo, typically 10,000 PSI or higher, produces a smooth-surfaced gas bubble. It expands too quickly to mix until it has sufficiently cooled.

An example of incandescence is your common light bulb. The electricity flows through the filament, and the filament glows due to the electrical resistance of the material involved. The filament, due to electrical resistance, is heated up until it is hot enough to be incandescent, and the glow is in the visible spectrum, which throws off … light. The filament is not consumed, it is not burning, it simply ejects photons due to the heat. Turn the light off, electrical flow stops, and the filament cools and stops emitting photons.

The muzzle flash of your rifle is the same principle. The hot gases, expanding into the cool air, emit photons from heat, not from burning powder. A flash hider hides most of this by creating turbulence. By mixing the cooler ambient air with the expanding bubble in a random pattern, there is no longer a large flat surface, or bubble, to glow.

The flash hider on your AR-15

An AR barrel with no flash hider is problematic. In a rifle-length 20-inch barrel it isn’t too bad, as there is enough length and time for cooling and pressure loss to keep flash manageable. Also, there are a lot of uses where the shooter doesn’t really care if there is a visible flash or not. A deer hunter, for instance, cares not one whit about muzzle flash. Target shooters are not bothered by it. Most matches are held in broad daylight, and cardboard targets aren’t going to notice muzzle flash. But the rest of us want a flash hider.

The basic A1 and A2 flash hiders do a very good job. The A2 differs only in that it has three of the slots closed, so that when you are firing prone, in a dusty environment, you will not be kicking up so much dust that everyone will be able to point and say, “Over there!” The closed bottom allows you to perform some tuning later on.

The next flash hider to consider is known as the Vortex. The real-deal, actual Vortex is made by Smith Enterprise. It’s longer than the A1/A2, and has only three or four (depends on the caliber) open-ended slots. The tines of the Vortex are thicker than the slot walls of the A1/A2, and its slot is machined along a slight spiral, angled path. As a result, the Vortex does a much better job of turbulating the gas flow of the muzzle blast, thus hiding the flash. (Yes, turbulating. It’s my book, I get to invent words now and then.)

The one drawback is that the open ends of the tines can catch on stuff like vines, branches or gear.

Everyone from the smallest machine shop to massive offshore manufacturers has made copies of the Vortex design. I’m as much in favor as saving money as the next guy, but when it comes to intellectual property, I’m also interested in protecting it. So buy original if you can.

There are more kinds of flash hiders: ones with slots, drilled holes, ports, vanes, grooves, you name it. All of these are marketed as improvements, but between the A1/A2 and the Vortex, there isn’t a whole lot of improvement to be gained.

How does a muzzle brake work?

A muzzle brake is a simple thing in theory, and a difficult thing in the real world. A brake directs hot, high-pressure gases, turning the gas flow into something we can use.

Newton’s Third Law tells us that for every action there is an opposite and equal reaction. When the bullet begins to move, the rifle begins to recoil. We can calculate the movement force precisely because we know the bullet’s mass and velocity, and we know the rifle’s mass and velocity. The first approximation is muzzle velocity multiplied by mass. For a .223/5.56 with a 55-grain bullet leaving at 3,000 fps, that comes to 165,000 gr. fps. The rifle weighs 7.5 pounds. There are 7,000 grains to a pound. So, our first estimate will be that the rifle will recoil at a velocity of 3.142 fps. (The actual total recoil is derived via calculus, as the bullet does not spend the entire bore time at 3,000 fps. I’ll leave that as an exercise for the really math-happy reader to solve.)

The same estimate, using a hunting rifle in .30-06 with a 180-grain bullet at 2,500 fps out of an 8-pound rifle, gives us 8.035 fps as the recoil velocity. Even if you’ve never fired an AR before, you can clearly see that the recoil it generates isn’t all that onerous.

The muzzle blast is basically a jet nozzle, and we can also calculate that. If we take a basic .223/5.56 load, with 25 grains of powder, and we burn and eject it, we have extra recoil. The hot gases jet out at over 4,000 fps, in some loads as high as 5,000 fps. We’ll use the lower figure. 25 grains (we’ll assume it all ejects at full velocity) at 4,000 fps is an additional 100,000 gr. fps in recoil. That adds 1.90 fps to the recoil velocity of the AR. (The .30-06? It adds 50 grains of powder at 4,000 fps, for an extra 3.57 fps. Ouch.)

But, what if we redirect those gases? A brake can jet them out to the sides or top, or cause them to slam into a fixed barrier, decelerating them. You can use the leverage the barrel provides, and not just negate the added gas component to recoil, but pretty much negate all the recoil. And that’s what a muzzle brake does.

You will notice that there is no mention of turbulence or of reducing flash. That’s because most muzzle brakes are actually flash enhancers. They redirect gases as smoothly and cleanly as possible. A good muzzle brake is loud, as the gases are re-directed back at you, or the guy next to you. They are dangerous, as the 4,000+ fps gases have been smoothly (smooth means efficient, and efficient means no loss of momentum) squirted up or to the sides — or both. You do not want to be standing next to someone shooting a braked rifle in any caliber.

Despite the assurances of manufacturers, there is no such thing as a device that is an effective muzzle brake and flash hider. You have to pick one.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gunsmithing the AR-15: The Bench Manual by Patrick Sweeney.

Concealed Carry: Force of Numbers in Self-Defense

Massad Ayoob

September 11, 2017

There are times, under the principle of disparity of force, that deadly force can be used against unarmed assailants. One of the prime examples is when facing multiple attackers.

It’s been long recognized that when faced with two or more criminals, their tactical advantage is so great the victim is likely to be killed or sustain grave bodily harm.
Michigan v. Ossian Sweet is one such example, where a jury found Dr. Sweet not guilty after killing a member of an angry mob that looked to do grave harm.
Still, even today, it can take a full-blown trial for the truth to come out when a victim defends themselves against multiple unarmed attackers.

The law has long since recognized that when two or more criminals attack a lone victim, their physical and tactical advantage is so great their single victim is likely to suffer death or grave bodily harm if the attack is not stopped immediately. (And, of course, the innocent victim has no prudent reason to believe that the attack will be stopped before that point by his or her violent assailants.)

A classic case in this vein was Michigan versus Ossian Sweet, in 1925. Dr. Sweet was a black physician in Michigan, in a time when segregation was law in the South, and “practice if not law” even in the North. He and his wife Gladys purchased a home in a Detroit neighborhood that was “all-white.” Hellish racial animosity ensued, and rose to the level of deadly threat. On the day in question, Dr. Sweet had been so alarmed he had bought guns for the friends and relatives who came to his home to protect him. Hostile crowds formed, at first held back by local police. When the mob began to storm the house, first throwing rocks through the windows, the defenders inside opened fire. One white man was killed, and another wounded.

Murder charges resulted. Legendary attorney Clarence Darrow took the case for the defense. In the chain of trials that followed, all of the defenders were ultimately exonerated, either by verdicts of not guilty or by prosecutorial dismissal of charges.

Not long after this trial, the classic legal text Warren on Homicide appeared, in 1938. This was the authoritative text destined to become known as “The Bible of Homicide Law” among lawyers and judges. The author(s) made it clear that when an individual faced a mob bent on doing violence to him or his compatriots, each member of that mob shared the culpability of the entire organism of the mob…and, therefore, was equally and individually fair game for the defensive violence suffered at the hands of the lawful defender(s).

One would have thought that would have decided the issue…and one would be wrong. It has long been a societal norm in the entertainment media, from books to “moving pictures” to the entertainment and even news media of today that “only a cowardly murderer would shoot/stab/kill” an “unarmed man.” We live in a society where media memes have so overpowered collective logic, and even long-established law and case law precedent, that it takes a full-blown trial for the truth to come out, and for law and justice to prevail.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Deadly Force.

Gun Review: CMMG Mk3 DTR2 in 6.5 Creedmoor

Mike Dickerson

September 11, 2017

CMMG has joined the ranks of gunmakers chambering ARs for the increasingly popular 6.5 Creedmoor, and its new Mk3 DTR2 in that caliber doesn’t disappoint.

What makes the new CMMG Mk3 DTR2 an appealing option?

CMMG has added the 6.5 Creedmoor to its proven Mk3 AR-10 rifle platform, and the DTR2 variant is loaded with features.
The Mk3 DTR2 features a 24-inch heavy barrel, CMMG’s RML15 M-LOK handguard and a Geissele SSA two-stage trigger.
Furniture on the Mk3 DTR2 includes Magpul’s respected PRS stock and MOE grip.
The author was able to achieve sub-MOA groups with the rifle using Winchester’s Match 140-grain BTHP loads.

New rifle cartridges come along all the time, but relatively few manage to stand the test of time. The 6.5 Creedmoor is a notable exception to this rule.

The brainchild of ever-innovative Hornady engineers, the 6.5 Creedmoor has been with us for about a decade now. The cartridge was intended to be an off-the-shelf competitive match cartridge, and it might have remained in that narrow niche had it not been for the explosive rise in popularity of long-range shooting and hunting in recent years.

Seducing shooters with the virtues of minimal elevation drop and wind drift at long range, the cartridge employs long and relatively heavy, high-ballistic-coefficient bullets. It has proven to be an inherently accurate cartridge, and it produces less recoil than the venerable .308 Win. Loaded with proper bullets, it’s a very effective round for hunting medium-sized game. Judging by the number of ammo makers loading the cartridge and the growing number of manufacturers chambering rifles for it, the 6.5 Creedmoor is here to stay.

Now CMMG, the Missouri-based maker of high-quality modern sporting rifles, has answered the siren call of the 6.5 Creedmoor with — count ‘em — four new AR-platform rifles chambered for the cartridge.

“We have noticed a growing interest and proficiency in long-range shooting among our customers,” explains Tyson Bradshaw, CMMG’s product development manager. “The 6.5 Creedmoor made sense because it’s ballistically suited for this application and has grown tremendously in popularity over the past 2 years.”

Bradshaw says CMMG designed all four new models to be capable long-range rifles that work great for target shooting or hunting medium-sized game, and the models come in different configurations to allow you to choose your level of customization.

The base model in the new rifle lineup is the Mk3, which has an MSRP of $1,799.95. The gun has a 20-inch barrel with a medium profile and comes with a CMMG single-stage trigger and A2 furniture and compensator. Equipped with a CMMG RKM15 KeyMod hand guard, it weighs 9 pounds.

For $100 more, you can get the Mk3 P model. It’s similarly equipped but has a 24-inch heavy-taper barrel and Magpul MOE pistol grip and MOE stock. It weighs 10.4 pounds.

The next step up is the Mk3 DTR, which also has a 24-inch heavy barrel, CMMG single-stage trigger, Magpul MOE pistol grip and PRS (Precision rifle/Sniper) fully adjustable stock. With CMMG’s new RML15 M-LOK handguard, it weighs 11.3 pounds and has an MSRP of $2,099.95.

This brings us to the rifle sent for testing, the top-of-the-line Mk3 DTR2, which weighs 11.3 pounds and has an equally hefty price tag of $2,274.95. Here’s a much closer look at what you’ll get for your money.

Turning Heads At The Range
Unboxing the Mk3 DTR2, I was surprised to find there was very little that was actually black on what I expected to be a black rifle. That’s because the gun sent by CMMG had its upper and lower receivers, and the RML15 M-LOK handguard, protected with a Cerakote finish in CMMG’s “titanium” color. Contrasting with the black grip and stock, the effect is rather stunning, and the rifle proved to be a head-turner at the range.

Beneath that weather-resistant finish, all Mk3s are built on 7075-T6 aluminum AR-10-proportioned receiver sets. Each uses a rifle-length gas system. Internal components are mostly Mil-Spec. The bolt is made of 9310 steel, and the bolt carrier is 8620 steel. The firing pin is chrome-plated 8640 steel, and both carrier and carrier key are chrome-lined. CMMG rifles have a lifetime warranty against defects in material or workmanship.

The DTR2 has a heavy profile, 24-inch 416 stainless steel barrel with a 1:8 twist, which favors heavier bullets. The barrel is capped with CMMG’s SV muzzle brake. Combined with the rifle’s weight, it reduces the Creedmoor’s already-mild recoil to a negligible level. The muzzle is threaded 5/8-24, so you can add a muzzle device or suppressor of your choice.
Controls are in the usual place but are not ambidextrous. There is no forward assist, which helps shave off a little weight.

Furniture consists of the Magpul MOE grip and PRS stock. I’ve always liked this fully adjustable stock because of its rigidity and stability and because it doesn’t catch and yank on facial hair as many telescoping stocks can. The rifle comes with a single 20-round AR-10 PMAG magazine.

One big difference in this top-end Mk3 is the addition of a Geissele SSA two-stage trigger. This is a huge improvement over the creepy, heavy Mil-Spec triggers on many ARs. It has a light initial take-up before meeting a solid stop. The trigger then breaks crisply with a bit more force.

On my Lyman trigger gauge, it broke cleanly and consistently at an average pull weight of 4 pounds, 5 ounces. As a guy who’s spent a lot of time with bolt-action rifles with fine triggers, I would prefer that the pull be just a bit lighter, but I can also understand why some people aren’t too keen on that concept with AR-platform guns.

With a rifle like the Mk3, which begs to be used in long-range shooting, I would be tempted to swap out the two-stage trigger for something like a single-stage Timney AR trigger with a lighter pull weight. This is not a criticism of the Geissele, which is very good — it’s a matter of personal preference and knowing that a lighter trigger enhances my long-range accuracy with any rifle, regardless of the action type.

Putting The Mk3 To The Test
When I first zeroed the rifle at the range, the third round out of the magazine hung up halfway out of the rifle’s ejection port. I cleared the gun and resumed shooting, and it never hiccuped again as I fired more than 100 rounds, pausing only once to swab out the barrel halfway through the session. The rifle fed, fired and extracted without issue, and after that initial failure to eject, spent shell casings ejected positively about 10 yards to the side and slightly forward.

For testing, I mounted a Leupold Mark 4 4.5-14x50mm LR/T (long range/tactical) scope, with M1 knobs and a Tactical Milling Reticle, using a rock-solid, cantilevered Burris PEPR mount. This is a great combo for long-range hunting and target shooting.

Average velocities of the four factory loads I tested over a CED M2 chronograph yielded a pleasant surprise. All zipped along at speeds quite close to factory-stated velocities, ranging from 53 fps faster to 26 fps slower. Interestingly, the slowest, at 2,684 fps, turned in the best performance.

Testing produced mixed results. Although I only had four loads, the rifle showed clear likes and dislikes. The Federal Fusion 140-grain load produced average groups just less than 1.5 inches, with a best group of 1.33 inch. Hornady’s Precision Hunter 143-grain ELD-X load did a bit better, with average groups of 1.17 inches and a best group of just a hair over 1 inch.

The Mk3 didn’t like the one light load tested, grouping 120-grain bullets into an average group of 2.57 inches. That wasn’t a huge surprise, with the barrel’s 1:8 twist, but I wanted to see if it would tolerate lighter bullets. With that load, at least, it did not.

The rifle obviously preferred heavier bullets, and the clear winner was Winchester’s Match 140-grain BTHP, with average groups of 0.88 inch and a best group of 0.78 inch. These were all five-shot groups, and testing was done with the wind gusting to 14 mph.

Even so, the rifle demonstrated that it’s a sub-MOA shooter at 100 yards with ammo it likes — but it’s at longer ranges, where the virtues of the 6.5 Creedmoor become more obvious, that the Mk3 will be most gainfully employed.

Specifications:

CMMG Mk3 DTR2
Type: Semi-auto, direct-impingement gas
Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Gas System: Rifle Length
Barrel: 24 in., 1:8 twist, heavy taper 416 stainless steel
Overall Length: 46 in.
Weight: 11.3 lbs. (unloaded)
Muzzle Device: CMMG SV brake, threaded 5/8-24 barrel
Handguard: CMMG RML15 M-LOK
Receivers: Billet 7075-T6
Trigger: Geissele Automatics SSA two stage
Grip: Magpul MOE
Stock: Magpul PRS
MSRP: $2,274.95
Manufacturer: CMMG

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the August 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

4 Quick And Dirty Upgrades and Accessories To Deck Out Your AR-15

Elwood Shelton

September 8, 2017

There’s no two ways about it, the AR-15 is America’s most popular rifle. No matter where you go in the gun world — self-defense, hunting, target shooting — the ubiquitous semi-automatic is there.

Certainly, the rifle’s shootability and accuracy have a great deal to do with its meteoric rise. But there’s another facet to the firearm that has made it the No. 1 choice for marksmen of all stripes — its easy customization.

With a tweak here and there, the good old AR can be all things to all shooters. But given its muzzle to buttstock adaptability, where should you start if you’re looking to trick your rifle out? With that question in mind, here are four quick and easy AR-15 upgrades and accessories that are perfect places to start making a black rifle truly yours.

Trigger

Unless you’ve purchased a rifle that’s already been upgraded, you’re most likely going to have a Mil-Spec trigger in your AR. This is generally not considered a good thing, unless you thrive under adversity.

Gritty, squishy and just plain bad are all phrases that come to mind when talking about stock AR triggers. And overall, that nasty bang switch is hurting your marksmanship. Whether you like it or not, that one simple little motion with your index finger has more to do with accuracy than nearly anything else. Remedying this situation with an aftermarket trigger, however, is staggeringly simple and, like most AR upgrades, can be done at home.

Drop-in triggers are the simplest to install, given they are self-contained and literally do what their name suggests. But it doesn’t take a veteran gunsmith to upgrade an AR-15 with a standard-style performance trigger.

Best of all, there are a slew of styles that go way beyond single- and double-stage trigger pulls, allowing you to customize your rifle to your purpose. On top of that, manufacturers abound — Timney, Geissel, Hiperfire and Wilson Combat, just to name a few. Honestly, the most difficult part of the process is wading through the sea of options to figure out which one is right for you.

Optics

Hitting what you’re aiming at is the name of the game with any firearm. Luckily, we live in a golden age of optics, with a piece of glass out there for nearly any purpose you can conceive of — from defending hearth and home to precisely beating the crap out of the bullseye at 300 yards. Best of all, when talking AR-15 rifles, the system facilitates a nearly seamless transition between aiming solutions, making it a gun for all occasions.

When the action is up close and personal, red dots have by far become the most used optics, for good reason. Once dialed in, the simple aiming system provides almost point-and-shoot capabilities that allow for swift and smooth transitions between targets. Aimpoint kicked it all off, but there are plenty of other manufacturers in the market today, including: SIG, Bushnell and EOTech among others.

But red dots, in general, have their limitations. Move a target out past mid-range and its 3 MOA dot doesn’t provide the precision it did at 25 yards. All is not lost, however, as the system can regain functionality with the addition of a magnifier. The device allows a red dot to reach out a great deal further (300 yards in some cases) and is engaged and disengaged in the blink of an eye, giving supreme adaptability to a rifle.

However, if your AR-15 dwells exclusively past the 100-yard mark, then a traditional scope is going to be your best bet. There is really no single good suggestion on what scope will work for you, meaning every optic from Burris to Ziess is fair game. It comes down to your shooting style, needs and objective. But rest assured, no matter what those are, there’s a piece of glass out there for you and your rifle.

Backup Iron Sights

You bet your cutting-edge optic is dynamite at tightening groups and transitioning targets. But what happens when the batteries run out? Or the objective lens gets cracked in the heat of battle? In these situations, you better hope to God you had the foresight to build redundancy into your rifle.

Backup iron sights are a must on any rifle outside a bench plinker because you never know when gremlins will start poking around your optics. Luckily, options in flip-up sights are plentiful and, once mounted, are always there if you happen to need them.

Though, just because this is a redundancy sighting system doesn’t mean you should go cheap. You want something that’s going to hold its zero, so the sights aren’t wildly off the mark when called into action. This means searching out sturdier-constructed options, which in general means metal.

American Tactical, Magpul, Precision Reflex and Promag Industries all have rock-solid options that will keep you in the fight. But shop around; there is certain to be a configuration with which you’ll be comfortable. And, oh yeah, once you have them mounted, practice with them.

Sling

As Tiger McKee recently pointed out, a rifle’s sling is akin to a pistol’s holster. And he’s dang right. You need to do something with your rifle when it’s not in use.

Like holsters, it will most likely take some tinkering to figure out what works best for you: single-point, two-point or three-point. It all depends on how you use your rifle and what gets it in and out of action most efficiently.

Luckily, there is no shortage of slings available, in a vast array of configurations and materials. Magpul, Viking Tactics and BLACKHAWK! are good starting points. But look around; there are a lot of innovative slings by less known names out there.

Also make certain you have the appropriate mounts. There’s nothing worse than having to retroactively buy the goods to get a sling into operation.

New AR-15: Colt Trooper Patrol Carbine

Elwood Shelton

September 7, 2017

The Colt Trooper Patrol Carbine offers shooters a more versatile M4 Carbine, complete with a highly configurable, specialized forend.

Colt has expanded its spartan LE6920 line with the highly configurable Trooper Patrol Carbine, boasting a Centurion Arms forend.
The Colt Trooper Patrol Carbine’s forend is M-LOK compatible, with ports at the 3-, 6-, and 9-o’clock positions.
The new carbine boasts a 1:7 twist rate, giving it the ability to stabilize heavier bullets.

When it comes to a bare-bones M4-style carbine that functions like a pro right out of the box, it’s hard to beat Colt’s LE6920 series. Perhaps the only complaint that could be mustered over the fast-handling ARs is their relatively Spartan furniture.

But with the recent release of the Colt Trooper Patrol Carbine, that changed in a big way. With a specially designed forend that opens the versatility of the platform, the carbine looks to offer the flexibility modern shooters have come to expect from contemporary black rifles.

“We set out to create something that is right in line with what today’s Colt M4 customer wants, so we started with our industry-standard LE6920 and worked with Centurion Arms to develop a new M-LOK capable free-floated forend just for the Trooper,” said Justin Baldini, Product Director for Colt. “The result is a modernized pro-quality carbine that’s ready for your choice of optic or iron sights. It represents an exceptional value to folks looking to get into the world Modern Sporting Rifles and another excellent option for enthusiasts looking to add another Colt to their stable.”

The 13-inch forend is slick with M-LOK ports at the 3-, 6- and 9-o’clock points, allowing the firearm to be configured in nearly every conceivable fashion. The 12-o’clock position has an integral rail that runs directly into the flat-top receiver, giving the system plenty of real estate for the addition of an optic or iron sights, whichever a shooter wants to run.

The direct-impingement 5.56x45mm NATO carbine is outfitted with a 16.1-inch barrel, rifled with a 1:7 twist rate (which will stabilize heavier bullets). An M4-style collapsible stock comes standard on the Colt Trooper, as do Mil-Spec A2 pistol grips and an A2 flash hider. And the carbine definitely comes in at the lighter end of the spectrum, tipping the scales at a mere 6.5 pounds unloaded.

The Trooper Patrol Carbine runs a bit more in the price category than the rest of the LE6920 line, with an MSRP of $1,049. But that price tag shouldn’t be too much of burden for shooters looking for a configurable carbine that runs unquestionably like a Colt the moment the trigger is squeezed.

Specifications:

Colt Trooper Patrol Carbine
Caliber: 5.56x45mm NATO
Capacity: 30+1
Receiver: 7075-T6 Aluminum, Black Hardcoat Anodized
Barrel Length: 16.1 in.
Twist Rate: 1:7
Overall Length: 32-35.5 in.
Weight Unloaded: 6.5 lbs.
Included Accessories: 30-round Magpul PMAG

From Customization to Performance: Our Best AR-15 Insights

Affordable AR-15 Rifles – A Buyer’s Guide
AR-10 vs AR-15 – How Stoner’s Rifles Stack Up
Upgrade Your AR-15 with the Best Parts & Accessories
AR-15 Lower Building Tips – Putting The Internals Together
How it Works: AR-15 Upper Assembly
Buyer’s Guide: Top AR Pistol Braces
AR Pistol Reviews – Best Options for Any Budget
AR-15 Caliber Guide – What Should You Chamber Your Carbine?

How To Build The Ultimate Gun Case

Gun Digest Editors

September 7, 2017

Having a case for your firearms is crucial in keeping them protected and secure. Check out these 14 easy steps for building a custom gun case.

How do you build the ultimate Pelican gun case?

Choose the right case and type of foam for your needs, and ensure your firearm(s) is(are) unloaded.
Lay out firearms and accessories how you want them to be, leaving at least an inch between objects, and then trace around them with a permanent marker.
Take the foam out of the case and, using a sharp knife that’s long enough to cut all the way through the foam but small enough to be maneuverable, cut the foam along the trace lines.
Make any final cuts if needed to ensure proper fit and then glue the bottom two foam slabs together if you’re certain you don’t want to add any more cuts to the foam.

A beautiful gun deserves a beautiful gun case.

Watertight, airtight, dent-resistant and shatter-resistant — just a few ways to describe the practically indestructible nature of Pelican cases. These properties result in an ideal transportation system for firearms during air travel or backcountry adventures. Though some may argue the design of any gun case is no match for a thief with the right tools, Pelican cases keep honest people honest while protecting your favorite firearms.

Designed with a reinforced polypropylene shell that would make a crash test dummy jealous, Pelican cases have earned the trust of everyone from photographers to the U.S. military and its strict specifications. Beyond the polymer shell, the exterior of these cases also includes tamper-proof hinges, stainless steel padlock eyelets and even a pressure equalization valve. But the Pelican’s impressive exterior shell is only half of the equation.

Popping open four double-throw latches, you’ll soon realize where the real magic happens. Beyond a rubber o-ring seal lay three dense pads of polyurethane foam. These slabs of foam line the top and bottom of the case, providing the cushioning necessary to protect firearms and gear from turbulence. In its factory-new configuration, the foam slabs are an open canvas waiting to be carved with the custom-cut dimensions of rifles, shotguns, handguns, ammo or accessories.

Don’t let the Pelican’s sophisticated design prevent you from transforming it into the perfect travel companion for your guns and gear. Luckily, personalizing your own Pelican gun case with custom-cut foam is a simple DIY project that requires very few tools and minimal expertise.

We’ve made it easier than ever to customize a Pelican case with the following step-by-step guide to building the ultimate gun case.

1. Choose a Pelican Case That Best Suits Your Needs.
Depending on what you want to transport, Pelican makes hundreds of cases in a variety of sizes. Be sure to measure the overall length of the firearm intended for the case, and then refer to Pelican’s website to check the interior dimensions of the desired gun case.

You should also take into account airline baggage size requirements. Many gun cases exceed the established oversize bag size set by commercial airlines, making them subject to expensive baggage fees. The most common airline oversize bag threshold is 62-inches, which is the total sum of an item’s length, width and height. Exceeding this threshold may result in additional fees. After researching, it appears the largest Pelican case for transporting long guns with 34 inches or less of overall length that fits under this threshold is the Pelican 1700 case, which was customized in the following steps.

TIP: If your gun is longer than 34 inches overall, consider field stripping it so it fits into the Pelican 1700 or a smaller-sized case.

2. Start with a Blank Canvas.
Pelican sells cases with two types of foam: solid slabs and Pick N’ Pluck. For the most custom setup, use the solid slabs and cut them yourself. The Pick N’ Pluck is easy to use for rectangular objects but is not completely form fitting around curved edges or custom shapes.

3. Safety first.
Before laying out the case to your desired orientation, be sure your firearms are unloaded.

4. Lay It Out.
Place objects on the solid slab of foam in the orientation you wish them to lay in the case. Depending on how the case will be most commonly carried, distribute the weight evenly so one side is not abnormally heavy. It’s also recommended to put the firearm’s buttstock on the wheel-end of the case so the weight of the firearm is evenly distributed while rolling the case.

5. Proper Spacing.
Keeping objects spaced at least 1 inch apart will provide adequate padding and protection. Consider adding more space between optics and fragile pieces, or less space between magazines, ammo or other accessories.

TIP: If possible, leave empty space so you can custom-cut more objects at a later date if you get a new suppressor or want to allocate more space for ammunition.

6. Invert the Layout.
To hide the trace marks made in the next steps, invert your layout so the trace marks will be facing downward and not visible. This is not required but does make an aesthetic difference.

7. Trace It Out.
Using a permanent marker, carefully trace around each object. Keep the trace marks close to the objects for a tighter fit. If you find the fit is too tight, you can always go back later and remove more foam.

TIP: Trace in a well-lit environment.

8. Choose Your Blade.
Cutting the foam with clean, precise lines requires the right knife for the job. Some sources suggest using serrated knives or an electric kitchen knife, but I find a 3- to 4-inch blade with a curved, pointed edge works best. It needs to be long enough to cut all the way through the foam but small enough for neat, precise cuts in tight areas.

9. Cut the Foam.
Pull the foam out of the case, and lay it on a table or work bench so the cutting area is hanging off the edge with an exposed underside for the knife to penetrate all the way through the foam. Following the trace marks from Step 7, cut the foam using straight up and down sawing motions. Start with the largest object, and cut one object at a time. Take it slow, and focus on making straight, clean cuts. Try to keep all the cuts in one continuous shape (more on this later).

TIP: The Pelican 1700 comes with three layers of foam. Only cut through one layer and go back later if you wish to cut the other layers to increase storage space.

10. Final Cuts.
After completing the cuts, replace the foam into the case and add your guns, ammo and gear to check for proper fit. The items should fit snugly, yet not too tight where the foam pulls out when removing an item from the case.

TIP: If the fit is too tight, remove more foam in small increments for the most custom fit.

11. Keep the Cutouts.
Proper tracing and cutting technique leaves you with life-sized foam cutouts. Keep these cutouts so you can replace them into the foam slab as needed. Let’s say you’re going to the range and don’t want to bring your pistol; replace the foam cutout so you don’t have a big empty spot. Replacing the foam will increase the padding of nearby objects compared to leaving an empty spot.

12. Glue Bottom Foam Slabs Together.
Only do this once you’re certain you don’t want to add any more cuts to the foam. Gluing the two bottom slabs together will increase their functionality by keeping objects from slipping in-between them. Instead of two separate pieces, you’ll now have one solid piece of foam.

13. Lock It Up.
Now that your case is complete, you’ll want to lock it up while traveling. It’s suggested to purchase at least two locks per long gun case. If you are flying with firearms, make sure to buy locks that are not accessible by TSA. The author uses a matching set of four Master Lock Model 131Q locks for airline travel. They are sold in a single package and are all keyed to the same key. These locks are lightweight, yet strong enough to keep the honest people honest.

14. Multitasking.
Additional foam slabs are available for purchase aftermarket. Purchase another set of foam slabs to custom-cut them for other guns in your collection. That way one Pelican case can adapt to multiple guns just by changing between custom-cut foam slabs.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the Fall 2015 issue of Modern Shooter.

7 Great Defensive Handguns For Women

Kat Ainsworth

September 6, 2017

The best handguns for women often land outside the pink-it and shrink-it category.

What are some great general handguns for women?

Smith & Wesson M&P45 Shield
Ruger SR1911
SIG Sauer P320
Remington RP9
Kimber Amethyst Ultra II
Glock 27
Republic Forge Defiant Lightweight

Confession: My name is Kat, and my hands aren’t small. My fingers are longer than those of many — most — men, in fact. My palms are too wide for women’s gloves. My hands engulf sub-compact guns but fit full-size double-stack 10mms. I am a woman who shoots, and my hands are neither small nor weak.

Men frequently ask me what handgun I recommend for the female in their lives. My standard response: Let them choose for themselves.

With that said, here’s a list of top handguns for women. And keep in mind: Many of the top choices don’t sport pink grips or purple slides.

Smith & Wesson M&P45 Shield
When Smith and Wesson launched the M&P45 Shield in 2016, I was immediately intrigued. The M&P Shield is a striker-fired model offered in multiple calibers — 9mm, .40 S&W, .45 ACP — that’s earned a well-deserved place at the self-defense table. The .45 ACP chambering is interesting, partly due to the challenge of controlling its recoil in a compact model.

The 45 Shield was designed with an aggressively textured grip to combat slipping; even pouring water over the gun didn’t lessen its effectiveness. It has an overall length of 6.5 inches — 0.4 inch longer than the smaller caliber models — and weighs 20.5 ounces empty. As a single-stack, it’s easier to conceal and simpler to grip with smaller hands while remaining comfortable for larger hands. On the range, its design proved solid by recoiling rearward with minimal muzzle rise. My average five-shot groups at 10 yards hovered at 1.5 inches and expanded to 2 inches at 25 yards.

Why conceal carry (CC) a .45 ACP? Because its bullet diameter is .451 inch prior to expansion, after which it’s even larger, and sometimes those extra two millimeters are the difference between hitting and missing vital organs or arteries. Many carry advocates shy away from recommending .45 ACP handguns for women because they believe they recoil enormously, which isn’t true: The .45 ACP recoils more than some, but it’s far less than most people expect. It’s easily mastered, and when you do, you might find yourself not only carrying the 45 Shield, but also loving it like Gollum loved the One Ring.

Specifications:

Smith & Wesson M&P45 Shield
Frame Size: Compact slim
Caliber: .45 Auto
Action: Striker-fired, semi-auto
Capacity: 7+1 and 6+1
Barrel Length: 3.3 in.
Front Sight: Steel, white dot
Rear Sight: Steel, white two-dot
Overall Length: 6.5 in.
Frame Width: .99 in.
Frame with Slide Stop: 1.05 in.
Height: 4.88 in. with flush magazine
Grip: Polymer
Weight: 20.5 oz. (empty)
Barrel Material: Stainless-steel,  Armornite finish
Slide Material: Stainless-steel,  Armornite finish
Frame Material: Polymer
Finish: Black
MSRP: $479

Ruger SR1911
The Ruger SR1911 in 9mm is a Series 70 Lightweight Commander-style 1911; this variant has an aluminum frame and 4.25-inch barrel. At 29.3 ounces, it’s somewhat heavier than the original Colt Commander of 1949 and longer, too; its overall length is 7.75 inches. Even so, it can be concealed — yes you can conceal a full-size pistol — even as a smaller-framed woman.

Slinging lead, the SR1911 excels. It ships with Novak Low-Mount three-dot sights; sights are drift adjustable and provide a clear sight picture. But its true test wasn’t at my hands but those of my then-13-year-old daughter, Grace. She was a 1911 newbie, and her first five-shot group at 10 yards neatly obliterated the 1-inch bull’s eye on the Shoot-N-C target.

Grace’s hands are much smaller than mine; her fingers are 1.75 inches shorter and narrower, too. Despite that, we both found the Ruger SR1911 offered a positive grip, natural trigger reach and fantastic accuracy. At 25 yards using Hornady American Gunner XTP 115-grain ammunition, the gun nailed a best five-shot group of 1.41 inches. It’s a dependable, accurate gun, and Grace claimed it as hers.

Oh, the SR1911 is also available in 10mm. The 10mm model has a longer barrel and is difficult to conceal, but it’s a superb choice for open carry or handgun hunting. It’s awesomely precise — my first five rounds of Polycase yielded a one-hole .538-inch group — and it feels natural. Also, its greater recoil is blunted by its design. My first range session with it involved 100 rounds of Hornady and 200 rounds of Polycase. There were no failures, just pure precision and bliss.

If you’re interested in the SR1911, be aware that it comes chambered in 9mm, .45 ACP and 10mm.

Specifications:

Ruger SR1911
Model Type: Lightweight  Commander-style 1911
Caliber: 9mm
Action: Recoil-operated,  hammer-fired, semi-auto
Barrel: 4.25 in.
Twist: 1:10 in. RH
Width: 1.34 in.
Overall Length: 7.75 in.
Height: 5.45 in.
Weight: 29.3 oz.
Capacity: 9+1
Trigger: Aluminum, skeletonized,  with adjustable over-travel stop
Trigger Pull:  4 lbs., 5 oz.
Slide: Stainless-steel
Slide Finish: Low-glare  stainless-steel
Grip Frame:  Gray anodized aluminum
Grip Panels: Black rubberized
Sights: Drift adjustable Novak  LoMount 3-Dot
Safeties: Ambidextrous extended  beavertail grip safety
MSRP: $979

SIG Sauer P320
The SIG P320 received attention after being selected as the winner of the Army’s XM17 Modular Handgun System (MHS) competition. It then failed a drop test done outside U.S. testing parameters; basically, it might fire if the trigger has a heavier pull and it’s dropped in a specific way. SIG announced it will offer upgrades, but here’s the bottom line: The P320 has been reliable not only for myself but other long-time gun owners, meaning it’s highly recommended.

There are multiple P320 variations, one of which is the P320 Compact. This is the gun carried concealed by competitive shooter Annette Evans. Evans carries the compact model partly due to familiarity: “It’s the baby version of my match gun, meaning it’s nearly identical to the gun I’ve shot tens of thousands of rounds through.”

She went on to attest to the gun’s performance: “I’m completely confident in the gun’s reliability, in how well I can run the gun, and in how effectively I shoot the gun — qualities I demand of my carry gun.”

During trigger time, the striker-fired P320 shines. It has a wider double-stack grip that fits both large and smaller hands — mine larger and Evans’ smaller — and texturing assists a firm grip, making it one of the best handguns for women available, or anyone for that matter. There’s some take-up ahead of the break; the trigger breaks at a measured 6 pounds, 3 ounces. At 25 yards, the best group was with DRT 9mm 85-grain Terminal Shock, a five-shot 1.11-inch group.

The P320’s modularity is one of its greatest features: Grip modules come in small, medium and large; it has an interchangeable trigger group; and calibers include 9mm, .357 SIG, .40 S&W and .45 ACP. The full-size P320 has an overall length of 8 inches and an empty weight of 29.5 ounces; the Compact model has an overall length of 7.2 inches and an empty weight of 25.8 ounces. Whether for open carry, concealed carry or range time, SIG has you covered here as a woman who shoots.

Specifications:

SIG Sauer P320
Caliber: 9mm/.357 SIG/.40 S&W/.45 ACP
Action: Semi-auto
Frame: Full-size (or compact)
Finish Material: Stainless-steel  (stainless-steel)
Slide Material: Stainless-steel  (stainless-steel)
Accessory Rail: M1913 (M1913)
Trigger: Striker (striker)
Trigger Pull: 6 lbs., 3 oz.  (6 lbs., 4 oz.)
Barrel: 4.7 in. (3.9 in.)
Overall Length: 8.0 in. (7.2 in.)
Height: 5.5 in. (5.3 in.)
Weight: 29.5 oz. empty  (25.8 oz., empty)
MSRP: Starts at $679

Remington RP9
Big Green recently celebrated its 200th anniversary, and with it came the RP9. There might appear to be similarities to the aforementioned P320, but there are reasons to mention it. In just a few short years, Remington jumped in the deep end of the handgun pool, launching the R51 — twice — the RM380 and the RP9. Of this trifecta, all of which I’ve fired at length, the RP9 stands out as the model of choice when it comes to handguns for women.

It takes more than going “boom” for a gun to win me over. So, although its aesthetics are noteworthy — it looks cool — it’s the trigger that makes this gun. The RP9 has a safety blade trigger with a steady, smooth pull and clean break. The reset is short, simplifying follow-up shots and increasing accuracy. My Lyman Trigger Gauge measured its pull weight at 5 pounds, 10 ounces, and though I do enjoy lightweight triggers, the RP9’s does nicely. Five rounds of Polycase Inceptor 9mm 65-grain ARX pierced a target at 25 yards with a best group of 1.67 inches.

Specifications:

Remington RP9
Caliber: 9mm
Action: Semi-auto, striker-fired
Capacity: 18+1
Barrel: 4.5 in.
Trigger Pull Weight: 5 lbs., 10 oz.
Sights: Drift-adjustable, three-dot white sights
Frame: Polymer
Slide: Stainless-steel
Finish: Matte black
Overall Length: 7.92 in.
Width: 1.3 in.
Height: 5.5 in.
Weight: 26.4 oz. (empty)
MSRP: $489

Kimber Amethyst Ultra II
Its bold purple slide grabs your attention, but the accuracy of the Kimber Amethyst Ultra II keeps it. The Amethyst is a compact 1911, and if you doubt the platform’s efficacy, consider that a 1918 Colt M1911 was self-defense expert Massad Ayoob’s 12th birthday present. If a 1911 can win the attention of 12-year-old Mas, it can have yours, too.

The Amethyst comes in 9mm and .45 ACP, so I, of course, chose .45 ACP. I ran 10 different brands of ammo through the pistol at various distances and experienced no failures of any kind.

It’s a single stack, so it’s slim for small hands, but the G10 grip panels broaden the gun for a concrete grip. Even better, it’s tall enough to prohibit dangling pinkies; it has an overall height of 4.75 inches and a 3-inch barrel, but it manages to retain enough bulk for comfortable and decisive shooting.

The solid aluminum trigger has an extremely abbreviated measured pull weight of 4 pounds, 10 ounces, and a glass-sharp break. At 10 yards with Snake River Shooting Products Team Never Quit 155-grain HP Frangible rounds, my best five-shot group — offhand — was 0.58 inch. At 15 yards, I had no problem drilling the bull’s eye consistently with a single-handed grip.

The Amethyst is a reasonably light 25 ounces, empty, and it’s highly concealable. My one issue was the beavertail grip safety, which began pinching the pesky skin between my thumb and pointer finger during extensive shooting. Otherwise, it’s a well-made, high-quality pistol.

At the range, several men referred to it as “cute,” which they quickly swapped with “amazing” and “I want one” after I let them try it. There’s nothing cute about a precise compact 1911; it might be purple, but it’s a stellar self-defense weapon. Kimber also offers it as the bright-blue Sapphire.

Specifications:

Kimber Amethyst Ultra II
Type: Compact 1911
Caliber: .45 ACP (tested), 9mm
Capacity: 7+1
Barrel: 3 in., stainless-steel
Overall Length: 6.8 in.
Overall Width: 1.15 in.
Overall Height: 4.75 in.
Weight: 25 oz. empty
Construction: Aluminum frame, stainless-steel slide
Grips: Purple and black G10
Sights: Tactical wedge three-dot tritium night sights, fixed
Safeties: Ambidextrous thumb, grip and hammer safety notch
Trigger: 4 lbs. 10 oz.
MSRP: $1,652

Glock 27
What’s a gun list without Glock? Sadly lacking, in my opinion. Eleven years ago, when my daughter was three years old, my concealed Glock 27 saved both our lives. I still own that gun, a little pistol that’s proven its reliability through thousands of rounds and concealment in a long list of states throughout the country. It cycles in sub-zero weather, rips out the bull’s eye whether I’m 15 yards away shooting one-handed or firing prone — and feels good in my hands.

There are several versions of the sub-compact, or baby, Glock. The more popular models are the 9mm 26, .40 S&W 27, 10mm 29, and .45 ACP 30S. The .40 S&W is losing popularity partly because ballistics has improved the 9mm’s capabilities but also due to a lack of knowledge. No matter how you slice it, the .40 S&W has an edge in velocity, energy and, subsequently, a bigger wound cavity over 9mm. As mentioned earlier, one millimeter could be the hair’s breadth to drop your attacker. I would be remiss not to address this cartridge.

Glocks are striker-fired polymer pistols, and the majority are double-stacks. The 27’s overall height of 4.17 inches leaves my pinkie hanging; Pearce Grip Extensions on magazines solve the issue without interfering with concealment. Hornady Critical Defense 165-grain FTX fired offhand at 10 yards produced a best five-shot group of .49 inch with the 27, and I shot a .53-inch group with the 26. The sub-compact 27 recoils more than full-size pistols, but it’s still negligible, and muzzle rise is easily managed. The stock safety-blade trigger has some take-up and a clean, firm break. It has a tactile reset; if you pay attention, follow-up shots are fast, without take-up.

There’s no arguing the reliability of Glocks, and if there’s one thing required of a self-defense gun, it’s that. There are numerous options for caliber and size. If you prefer single stacks, there’s the .380 ACP 42 and the 9mm 43. There are sub-compacts, compacts and full-size models; Gen 4 Glocks ship with interchangeable backstraps. Glocks might be plastic, but they’re plastic I trust with not only my life, but also my daughter’s.

Specifications:

Glock 27
Caliber: .40 S&W
Action: Semi-auto, striker-fired
Frame: Polymer
Capacity: 9+1 (13/15/22 optional)
Barrel: 3.42 in.
Overall Length: 6.49 in.
Height: 4.17 in.
Width: 1.18 in.
Weight: 21.89 oz. empty
Trigger pull: 5 lbs., 2 oz.
Trigger travel: .49 in.
Barrel rifling: Right-hand, hexagonal
Length of twist: 9.84 in.
MSRP: $549

Republic Forge Defiant Lightweight
If the name doesn’t get you, this custom 1911’s performance will. Republic Forge is known for its high-end 1911s, which are handmade one at a time. I’ve had the pleasure of using various models for hunting and self-defense, and I consider the Defiant a must-mention. Yes, it’s an expensive pistol, but it’s also an impressive weapon.

The .45 ACP Defiant is a Commander-style 1911 designed to become the classic in your gun family. Don’t misunderstand; this is no safe queen. With a barrel length of 3.6 inches and an overall height of 5.25 inches, it can and should be your EDC. Its skeletonized trigger has a measured pull weight of 3 pounds, 1 ounce and offers a consistent pull and crisp break. Muzzle rise is minimal, and it provides a positive grip; all controls are within reach for shooters with smaller hands, and the grip safety functions well. It ate everything I fed it from hollow points to frangible ammo, and it produced a best five-shot group of 1.22 inches at 25 yards with Polycase Inceptor 118-grain ARX.

If you want a custom-made 1911, Republic Forge gets it done with Made-in-America style. The Defiant is one of many outstanding options.

Specifications:

Republic Forge Defiant Lightweight
Caliber: .45 ACP
Action: Single, semi-automatic
Weight: 30 oz. empty
Frame: Full-sized commander
Frame Material: 7075 T-6 aluminum
Slide: 4340 carbon steel, heat-treated
to 38-41 Rockwell
Barrel: 416 stainless-steel
Barrel: 3.6 in.
Trigger: Skeletonized
Trigger Pull: 3 lbs., 1 oz.
Sights: Republic Forge Night Sights with
straight-eight Tritium configuration
MSRP: $2,995

The .380 ACP For Women
You probably noticed these guns are all 9mm and larger. Despite advances in ballistics, tests — including my own — show .380 ACP doesn’t meet FBI standards for penetration. This doesn’t mean it should be discounted, but that it’s best as a BUG (backup gun). In fact, the Ruger LCP II is one of the more impressive pocket pistols of recent history with its vastly improved trigger and surprising accuracy. It’s a great boot gun and executes tight groups at close range. The .380 ACP is a snappy little cartridge meant for close-range use; the belief that .380 ACP, .38 Special and other small calibers produce less felt recoil is patently untrue.

The Handgun Bottom Line
There’s a gun for everyone regardless of hand size, stature … or gender. Try different models before choosing one — let the lady of your life try them for herself — and don’t restrict her to smaller calibers. Handguns for women do not automatically translate to micro-sized .380s. Buy the gun she’s comfortable shooting and willing to carry, then get proper training.

As the late Col. Jeff Cooper said, “The first rule of a gunfight is having a gun.”

Get a gun.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the September 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Gun Review: Savage Model 10 GRS Rifle

L.P. Brezny

September 6, 2017

The new Savage Model 10 GRS features a high-tech adjustable stock and is capable of serious long-range performance.

What makes the Savage Model 10 GRS a contender in the long-range game?

This new Model 10 utilizes a fully adjustable and highly ergonomic Berserk stock from GRS Riflestocks of Norway.
The rifle combines Savage’s time-proven and accurate Model 10 action with a button-rifled and fluted, medium-heavy barrel and the manufacturer’s crisp AccuTrigger.
The new Model 10 GRS is available in excellent long-range calibers such as .308 Winchester, 6.5 Creedmoor and 6mm Creedmoor.
The author was able to achieve sub-half-MOA groups with the rifle in calm wind conditions.

Built on the back of the standard police sniper rifle, the Savage Model 10, the new Savage Model 10 GRS is a major advancement when it comes to personalizing a rifle for field, long-range or competitive target applications. With the addition of the new GRS Berserk adjustable stock, this rifle has taken a step up when it comes to a solid bolt-action rifle that can — with the simple push of a button on the rifle’s stock — adjust the system to fit anyone. This rifle stock is straight from Norway and carries a right-hand depressed palm design exactly like that of the German Anschutz competition target rifle. This rifle retains a stock that is so unique to the Savage Model 10 that it warrants a story unto itself. While half the gun industry dances around with look-alike rail guns (chassis designs) and modified conventional rifle stocks, Savage hit the deck running with a real innovation in this rifle by offering European stock engineering in an American rifle.

Two buttons control the length of trigger pull and comb height in relation to the riflescope. The system is flawless and quite simple to use. It doesn’t have any ratchets, knobs or keyhole locks to turn. The forend of the stock retains a beavertail flat base, but it’s a bit modified from a full target rifle’s design. The left side of the stock features quick-release, button-style sling swivels, whereas the underside toward the muzzle retains a single stud for mounting a Harris-type bipod. Along the sides and grip of the rifle’s stock there is a special surface that is soft to the touch. This grip surface aids in maintaining a solid grip for offhand or benchrest shooting. The rifle stock is constructed of a fiberglass, Durethan-reinforced material, and the rifle is glass bedded. I had cut my left-hand index finger while butchering meat sometime before I began to evaluate this rifle, and during testing, the texture of the forend brushing against it was bad enough I was not sure I could continue with my live fire review.

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However, because of the very user-friendly design of this rifle, I was still able to stay in the game. In effect, I basically eliminated the need for my support hand altogether, instead shooting groups with my right arm only on sand bags. That special offset target pistol grip/palm rest gave me some additional and much-needed control. So far, every shooter I have shown this rifle to has commented on the very well designed stock. Even the buttstock’s Limb Saver system needs to be addressed. When shooting at 1,000 yards, I was able to basically free-float the rifle in the sand bags, as felt recoil was about the same as a .30-30 Winchester.

Model 10 Barreled Action
Say what you want about a Savage action in terms of its lacking any special good looks, but as far as I’m concerned, it is what happens when the bullet meets the target that counts, and how easy it is for the shooter to use the equipment at hand to get the job done. The Savage Model 10 is offered in both .308 Winchester and the newer 6.5 Creedmoor (Editor’s Note: The Savage Model 10 GRS is also now offered in 6mm Creedmoor as well). The Creedmoor-chambered model retains a longer 24-inch barrel versus the .308’s 20-inch length. Save for that difference, both rifles are exactly the same minus the chambering.

The rifle accepts variants of the AICS magazine and ships from the factory with a single box magazine. The receiver of the Model 10 is exactly that — the time-tested Savage turn bolt line — and is the solid, accuracy-delivering guts the manufacturer has become respected for producing. Tack on the button-rifled and fluted, medium-heavy barrel to Savage’s barreled action pairing, and you have a solid, tack-driving rifle as your end product. Finish off the rifle with the Savage AccuTrigger and a threaded muzzle that accepts suppressors, and you’re ready to install your choice of glass and take on targets well downrange.

Accuracy and Function
With a somewhat tight timeline for testing and the absence of the scope I originally intended to use, which was still hung up on some freight truck, I elected to go with a model I had on hand, at least for starters. Bolting down a Nikon 4.5-18x magnification Prostaff 5, I set the second focal plane power to a locked 10x and proceeded to shoot a zero and then groups with no less than five different loads offered up by Federal, as well as a handload of my design using Sierra bullets. The following are the results of those 100-yard three-shot groups.

Load	Group 100 Yards
Federal American Eagle 140-grain OTM 6.5 Creedmoor	1.420 inches
Federal Premium Big Game 120-grain trophy Copper	1.350 inches
Federal Gold Medal Berger 130-grain Hybrid OTM Match	1.0 inches
Federal Fusion 140-grain SN	1.150 inches
BR&D, Hornady Brass, Federal Primer LR, 38.2 GR Varget, and Sierra 130-grain MKT	1.033 inches

Now, before you go off half-cocked and say those are the worst groups in history for a precision-type rifle, please be advised that the weather was dreadful. I had a full-value right-to-left northwest wind that was gusting 10 to 20 mph, and I was trying to send bullets between gusts with darn little success. However, even with those issues, I could see through the distressed bullet flight that there was a consistent pattern emerging with the test loads’ performance, and, given some better conditions, I felt sure accuracy would improve. I had shot a dead center 50-yard group with the Federal Berger 130-grain Hybrid on my short shotgun range at home that had measured only 0.335 inch. The rifle can shoot, and by the next day, with the arrival of the proper Bushnell Elite Tactical DMR 3.5-31×50, I became more than a bit hopeful.

On the second day of shooting, the weather had settled down, and I was greeted with dead-still air. Shooting conditions could not have been any better as I set the Savage Model 10 GRS into some heavy sand bags. I established a zero using a ¼-inch diamond dot paster placed squarely in the middle of an 18×18-inch Birchwood Casey black carbon Shoot-N-See target, and the first round put a hole straight through the marker. That was a first ever for me, seeing as I had not touched the scope in any way beforehand. If you’re a bit superstitious, you might even say it was an omen of sorts, and the next series of 100-yard targets proved that to be possibly a fact. The group list included here is an example of shooting in calm conditions with a Mack Brothers suppresser attached and the Mil-Spec Bushnell Elite Tactical DMR ultra-long-range first focal plane milrad scope taking charge of the task at hand.

Load	Group 100 Yards
Federal Gold Medal Berger 130-grain Hybrid Open Tip Match	0.410 inch
Federal American Eagle 140-grain OTM	0.485 inch
Federal Premium Big Game 120-grain Trophy Copper	0.375 inch

With the total weight of the rifle package at 13 pounds, the Bushnell reticle stood dead still in testing. I was sure that, with these groups, when I moved to long range, I would be in the zone and able to spot bullet splashes easily. Without adjusting the bench, I turned to the 600-yard marker, an E-50 Action Target armor plate steel torso. After clicking up 3.5 Mils, I set the crosshairs dead center on the plate. The rifle gave off a hollow thud with the suppressor and a second or so later, steel rang out. I had again selected the Berger Match ammo here because it carried a G-1 BC of 0.560, and it was producing excellent results.

The Final Stretch
Luckily, my weather pattern was holding. On day three — the final run with the new Savage Model 10 GRS — I repainted my E-50 target, and then I moved up to Dead Horse Ridge, which was 1,000 yards out, and 100 feet above the valley floor from where the target was placed. This would be the final push in terms of testing the rifle’s performance, and again, I would stay with the Federal Gold Medal 130-grain Berger bullet loads, as they had been nothing but outstanding. Measurements on the 600-yard steel in the previous three-shot groups measured from 4 to 5 inches in a triangle shape, and in the three sets of groups shot, everything fired had met steel head on. With sub-MOA performance now to 600 yards, in my mind the Savage Model 10 GRS was red hot.

Dead Horse Ridge looms above the valley, allowing a rifleman to easily shoot from 500 yards to over one mile. The air temperature was already building, which told me to cut a few tenths of a mil back in terms of bullet drop. I checked my D.O.P.E (Data On Previous Engagement) once more, then sent round one downrange. I hadn’t allowed enough reduction in elevation as the bullet skipped just over the steel plate and sent dust bellowing up dead center but above the target. Turning my turret two 1/10 clicks and taking a slightly lower hold, round two sent dust and dirt flying all across the ground in front of the hardened steel plate. Hit! I muttered to myself, and it was now game on.

While I won’t quite say shooting 1,000 yards with this scope and rifle was almost easy, I must admit that Savage and Bushnell have hit on a winner with this long-range combination. When I concluded my string of shots, I had sent 10 rounds toward steel and missed that first round over, and the second shot very slightly to the right. When I checked the target up close, I then spotted that the missed round on the right side had actually just caught the very edge of the steel plate. This, in long-range shooting terms, was scored as a hit, but I believe that would be splitting hairs in this case, and I was still very pleased with the performance of this long-range 6.5 Creedmoor rifle.

Also of note, when I had concluded the 10-round string against steel, I observed the remains of a coyote out at the 1,130-yard mark. Using the highly scientific WAG (wild-ass guess) ranging system and turret adjustment, I set my crosshairs directly on the drying bag of bones and hide. At the shot, the hair flew and bones spread out. I had made a dead center hit with one shot, which gives some indication of this rifle’s ability at long range. To be sure, the Savage Model 10 GRS will be responsible for some long-range “punch outs” in the months to come.

My conclusions here are quite simple: I believe that rifles like this Savage Model 10 give the long-range shooter or hunter an accurate system at a very fair price. As for the Bushnell optic I used? Be advised, my friends, you have not seen the last of that class of high-end long-range glass. That scope was totally outstanding in every respect, and it was military to the core.

Currently, Savage holds the record regarding the number and types of long-range rifles in current production. You could say the company has taken long range into its mainstream production without limits. The new Savage Model 10 GRS has innovations that I have not seen in an American rifle to date.

Specifications:

Savage Model 10 GRS
Caliber: .308 Winchester, 6.5 Creedmoor (as tested), 6mm Creedmoor
Type: Bolt-action rifle
Barrel: 20 in. (.308 Win.), 24 in. (6.5 Creedmoor), 26 in. (6mm Creedmoor)
Barrel Material: Carbon steel, matte finish
Overall Length: 40 in. (.308 Win.), 44 in. (6.5 Creedmoor), 46 in. (6mm Creedmoor)
Weight: 8.9 lbs. (.308 Win.), 9.2 lbs. (6.5 Creedmoor), n/a (6mm Creedmoor)
Trigger: AccuTrigger
Stock: GRS Berserk synthetic, adjustable
Capacity: 10 rounds
MSRP: $1,449

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from the June 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

7 Classic Revolvers You’ve Got To Have

Elwood Shelton

September 5, 2017

There’s no denying that semi-automatics pistols rule the roost nowadays. But this hasn’t always been the case. For nearly two centuries, the sidearm of choice has been the revolver, and for good reason. Boasting one of the most reliable designs, capable of shooting some of the most powerful handgun cartridges, and deadly accurate, the style of firearm just plain delivers. And there have been some downright incredible examples of these rock-solid handguns to roll down the pike over the years. With this in mind, here are 7 classic revolvers you’ve got to have, or your gun safe just won’t be complete.

What are some of the most classic revolvers:

Colt Single Action Army
Colt Detective Special
Smith & Wesson Model 19
Ruger Blackhawk
Colt Python
Smith & Wesson Model 29
Freedom Arms Model 83

Colt Single Action Army

Arguably the king of all handguns, this prince of the prairie helped tame the American West and is still lionized by shooters today. The legendary gun was among the first commercially successful revolvers to utilize metallic cartridges. And when married with the potent .45 Colt, it provided soldiers, lawmen and outlaws enough firepower to get their jobs done.

Today, the SAA lives on as a movie icon, with the likes of John Wayne, Clint Eastwood and Val Klimer all dropping the hammer on the six-shooter. The original historic revolvers, especially those with any providence, can border on the insane when it comes to price. Luckily, Colt still has the Single Action Army running off its assembly line, as does Uberti — true to form and ornery as ever.

Colt Detective Special

Like any tough-as-leather gumshoe will tell you, a solid snubnosed revolver can allot a great deal of peace of mind. And snubbies‘ enduring popularity is due, in part, to this slick little pocket pistol.

The Detective Special made its appearance in the Roaring ‘20s, and like its name suggests, the revolver was intended for carry by plain-clothes officers. But G-Men weren’t the only ones to recognize the advantage of the clandestine .38 Special, with more than one of these Colts making it into the hands of mobsters and bootleggers over the years.

In addition to its petite size, the Detective Special embraces a design point new to revolvers of the time. It was among the first double actions to utilize a swing-out cylinder. As revolver fans know, this tweak made wheelguns that much faster on the reload, a particularly important feature for a defensive arm.

The Detective Special is still popular today, a keen addition to any gun collection. And in a pinch, ready to roar into action.

Smith & Wesson Model 19

Coming up with a classic doesn’t necessarily mean reinventing the wheel. The Model 19 is a case in point.

In collaboration with a lawman and one of the best marksmen of his day, Bill Jordan, Smith & Wesson married the powerful .357 Magnum cartridge with its trim medium-sized K-Frame. While it required some mechanical and metallurgical tinkering to get right, what resulted was magic

The Model 19 boasted supreme stopping power, yet came in a manageable package. It’s latter point was one of its greatest assets; it could be worn all day without becoming burdensome. No understatement, it became the finest duty revolver of the 20th Century, and an absolute treasure to revolver fans.

Ruger Blackhawk

It’s hard to think how the Single Action Army could be improved, but Ruger found a way to do it. Shooters, in turn, more than responded.

The Blackhawk was and is one of the all-time most popular guns to roll off the company’s assembly line. What made it such a hit, aside from the Western movies of the day, was the single action’s ability to digest magnum rounds. Given America’s love affair with the .357 Magnum in the early 1950s, it made sense the Blackhawk was originally chambered for the round, then soon after the .44 Magnum.

The new models, and there are many of them, are just as fun and rock solid as the Blackhawks that rolled off the line nearly more than 60 years ago. But it’s difficult to argue that there is just something to the old, original “Flattop” models that are the apples of collectors’ eyes.

Colt Python

Along with hand-rolled cigars and small-batch whiskey, this revolver is truly one of the finer things in life. The hand fitted and hand polished Python offered shooters an unparalleled experience behind the trigger, and head-turning looks that seldom come down the pike.

To the latter point, the .357 Magnum is unmistakable in silhouette, boasting a vented rib and a full-length underlug running on a bull. But the Python offered more than serpentine good-looks; it also performed. The revolver could beat the snot out of the bullseye, aided by superior hand fit, a trigger pull as smooth a glass and a cylinder locking mechanism that milked every bit of accuracy out of each cartridge. It is no wonder gun writers and handgun enthusiasts in general consider the Python among the best mass-produced revolvers of all time.

Smith & Wesson Model 29

The revolver that makes anyone’s day, shooters have had an up-and-down relationship with the .44 Magnum. Popularized by Clint Eastwood’s use of it in the “Dirty Harry” movies, the Model 29 was for a time the must-have revolver.

But similar to when it was originally introduced in the 1950s, there were plenty of barely-shot 29s returned to gun stores around the country. While shootable for caliber, the Smith & Wesson N-frame still packed more punch than the general shooting public was willing to endure.

The emerging niche of handgun hunting in the 1970s kept the large-bore revolver relevant, given, short of a blue whale, it could perforate and permanently put down nearly any beasty on God’s green earth. And it is still among the top choices of handgun hunters today, especially those with a yen for the classics.

Freedom Arms Model 83

Finely built, with power to spare, this single-action monster is just the ticket for tackling any game North America can throw at you.

The first commercially revolver offered in .454 Casull, the Model 83 gained notoriety for more than its ability to pitch one of the most potent rounds on the planet. The wheelgun was also one of the most meticulously engineered firearms to hit the market, despite its old-timey look. One such example is Freedom Arms line boring the cylinder, a process rarely seen outside custom shops and which ensures absolutely dead-on bore-to-chamber alignment.

Despite its premium price, the Model 83 has grown in popularity with the upsurge of handgun hunting, and it is now available in a slew of game-stopping calibers from .357 Magnum to .500 Wyoming Express. Freedom Arms has even kept the recoil-sensitive, yet performance-driven shooters in mind, offering the legendary Model 83 in .22 LR.

Classic Pistol: Heckler & Koch P7 Series

Robert Sadowski

September 5, 2017

Heckler & Koch’s P7 series of pistols are truly unique, not only due to their delayed-blowback system, but also due to their peculiar squeeze-grip cocking mechanism.

The Heckler & Koch P7 series was touted as the company’s finest, most reliable and most expensive pistol line in its run from 1979 to 2008.
What set the P7s apart from contemporaries of the time and today is their unique squeeze-cocker grip, which were the pistols’ only safety.
The P7 design is also intriguing due to its lack of slide rails; the slide stays in place through the barrel, which makes it truly easy to manipulate.
The P7 is a hefty pistol, given its metal frame; this extra weight pays off in the accuracy department, helping it keep on target.

The Heckler & Koch P7 is iconic not just because it employs a gas delayed-blowback system but for other features designed into the gun. From 1979 thru 2008, the P7 series was positioned by H&K as the finest, most reliable and most expensive — yes they actually used that tag line in advertisements — pistol available. There was nothing like it on the market. At the time, the P7 was probably the most expensive pistol on the market. Other features in the pistol actually over shadowed the gas delayed-blowback system like the squeeze-cocking grip, striker-fire single-action trigger, and a number of other features that made the P7 stand out from the other 9mm pistols of that time.

The P7 was designed by H&K to replace the 7.65mm caliber pistols used by West German police in the early 1970s. Part of the criteria for the new pistol required that it be chambered in 9mm, weight was not to exceed 35 ounces, and the pistol’s size could not be more than 180mm × 130mm × 34 mm — that’s 7.08 in. x 5.11 in. x 1.33 in. for the metric challenged. The pistol also needed to be fully ambidextrous, safe to carry with a loaded chamber, have the ability to be quickly drawn and fired instantly, and have a service life of at least 10,000 rounds.

The H&K P7, along with submissions from SIG and Walther, won contracts. The P7 was officially adopted as the PSP, and it wasn’t long before other law enforcement agencies in Germany embraced the pistol as well as special forces in the German military. Greece and Mexico produced licensed variants of the pistol while other countries around the globe adopted the P7. Stateside, the P7 was adopted by the New Jersey State Police in 1981. The U.S. Park Police as a well as a few other LE agencies adopted the pistol. Back in the 1980s, the H&K P7 was a high-tech, cutting-edge pistol design.

What really sets the P7 series apart from contemporaries of the time and today is the squeeze-cocker grip. The front grip strap is actually a cocking lever. Grip the pistol and squeeze like you would normally grip a pistol. It takes about 13 to 15 pounds to squeeze the cocking lever and about one pound to hold it. Think of it like a compound bow; initially, it takes more effort, then less to hold it. Once cocked, a pin protrudes from the rear of the slide indicating to the user the pistol is cocked and ready to be fired. The cocking lever actually moves the striker into battery so the pistol will fire when the trigger is pressed. A relatively crisp single-action trigger press of about five pounds fires the pistol.

This squeeze-cocker feature allows the pistol to be safely carried with a round in the chamber, and it is the only safety device on the pistol. In the event the firing pin fails to dent the primer of the cartridge and the round does not go off, the cocking lever can be released and squeezed again to fire the pistol. The cocking lever also makes the pistol harder for those with weak hand muscles, like children, to fire the pistol.

The squeeze-cocking lever is a bit odd for an experienced pistol shooter, but I found my ramp up time was quick. The P7 has natural pointing ability and excellent balance. Most of the weight is in the butt, and the bore axis is low. The pistol is also small. There is not a lot of pistol forward of the trigger guard. The P7 and the Walther CCP have the barrel fixed to the receiver so the barrel does not move during firing. This design trait makes the pistol inherently more accurate than a locked breech and tilting barrel mechanism. Not that the P7 or the CCP are target pistols by any means.

Missing in these designs are slide rails. The slide stays on the receiver because of the barrel. The slide is easy to manipulate. Using the pinch-and-pull method or hand-over-the-slide method, the slide is effortless to rack, unlike some compact locked breech designs that require strength to manipulate the slide. Other design features of the P7 include a fluted chamber similar to an H&K G3 or PTR 91 rifle. The flutes in the chamber allow the pressure from a fired round to eject the empty brass cartridge. The P7 does have an extractor, which helps makes the ejection run more smoothly, but in the case that the extractor breaks, you are not out of the gunfight. The P7 will still run. Empties will still eject. What was also new at the time and relatively common today is the P7’s polygonal-rifled barrel.

The P7M8 I used for testing had a European-style magazine release in the butt. Later variants of the P7 used a thumb magazine release. The sights are large and easy to align.

Compared to other compact locked breech pistols, there was a difference in the cycling. I ran the P7 with three different bullet weights and different bullet types: Hornady American Gunner with 115-grain XP jacketed hollow point bullets, Aguila 124-grain FMJs and Liberty Ammunition Civil Defense 50-grain hollow point bullets. Muzzle velocities varied among the cartridges, with the Liberty Ammunition screaming out the barrel at 1,943 fps. The Hornady and Aguila were what you would expect, about 1,080 and 1,010 fps, respectively. I had a compact locked breech pistol along firing the same ammunition, and there was a difference in felt recoil. The P7 was softer. There were no issues with any of the ammo, and the P7 had a preference for the hot 50-grain Liberty ammo. My best five-shot group at 25 yards was 1.08 inches.

The P7 is not the lightest of compact pistols since it uses a metal frame, but that extra weight made the P7 a sweet-shooting pistol. On average, five-shot groups ranged from 1.5 to 1.7 inches at 25 yards. This old school pistol still has game.

Field stripping the P7 is simple after removing the magazine. Press the takedown button, retract the slide and pull up. The slide assembly can then be slid off the barrel. Attached to the slide is the piston, which pivots on a pin. When reassembling, the piston needs to be aligned with the cylinder in the receiver. The process is easy, albeit different from the takedown procedure of a locked breech pistol. The piston and cylinder need special attention when cleaning to ensure carbon and burnt propellant debris is removed. This is more complicated than the process for a locked breech pistol for sure.

The P7 series spawned variants. The P7M8 is a 9mm single-stack with 8+1 capacity, and the P7M13 comes with a 13+1 round capacity. Others included a P7M10 in .40 S&W and a few others. The P7M8 and P7M13 need to be on every pistol shooter’s bucket list. If a pal has one, ask to shoot it. It will be a lot less expensive than purchasing one. If you do buy one, know that it will increase in value and that you will be eating Ramen noodles for a month.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest 2018.

11 Serious Optics for Dangerous Game

David Hart

September 4, 2017

Hunting dangerous game requires you to be on your toes, and that includes using some of the best optics possible for the job.

It’s not just running; it’s running at you. Hey, they don’t call it dangerous game for nothing. Will you have the nerve to stand your ground and finish the job? More important, will your equipment do what you need it to do?

You don’t have time to second-guess your scope when a wounded buffalo is closing the distance. That’s why you get the best equipment money can buy. And that’s why you buy the right equipment for the job. All scopes are not created equal, at least not when your life is on the line. Even binoculars can be a crucial tool in avoiding a brush with death. Here’s a look at the right optics for your next dangerous game hunt.

Dangerous game optics:

Swarovski EL 42
Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6×24
SIG Sauer Zulu 9
SIG Sauer TANGO6
Trijicon AccuPower 1-8×28
Zeiss Victory SF
Zeiss Victory V8
Meopta MeoStar B1 10×42 HD Series
Leica Magnus 1-6.3×24
Swarovski Z8i 1-8×24
Meopta MeoStar R2 1-6×24

Swarovski EL 42

It’s hard to believe Swarovski could improve its famously clear EL series binoculars, but it did. The FieldPro package includes features designed to enhance comfort and functionality, including a rotating strap connector, a redesigned objective lens cover, a user-friendly focusing wheel and a diopter adjustment lock. The EL series still features Swarovski’s world-famous glass, edge-to-edge sharpness and high light transmission. 29.5 ounces. ($2,832; SwarovskiOptik.com)

Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6×24

At less than 11 inches, Vortex’s new Viper PST may be the perfect dangerous game scope. It’s not just compact; it’s fast, thanks to the 112-foot field-of-view at 100 yards at 1x. You’ll find your target in an instant, no matter how close it is or how fast it’s approaching. The Viper PST is available with either an MOA or MRAD illuminated reticle with ten intensity levels and is built on a 30mm tube. ($999.99; VortexOptics.com)

SIG Sauer Zulu 9

Dangerous game gets even more dangerous when the sun goes down. That’s why you need a pair of binoculars that offer the highest level of light transmission. SIG’s Zulu 9s fit that bill. Built with fully multi-coated Spectracoat lenses, HDX glass and Abbe-Konig prisms for maximum clarity and sharpness, these binoculars will last you a lifetime. The nitrogen-filled tubes are fog-proof, making them the ideal binoculars for any game in any situation. Available in 9x45mm and 11x45mm.
($1,379.99-$1,439.99; SIGOptics.com)

SIG Sauer TANGO6

Whether you expect long shots or close ones, a snap shot or a slow, deliberate one, SIG’s Tango 6 is everything you are looking for in a dangerous game scope. It includes SIG’s innovative LevelPlex, an anti-cant leveling system that takes the guesswork out of long-range shooting. It’s accurate to within 0.5 degree. The high-speed, low-profile turrets allow for fast target acquisition at any range, and each scope comes with a laser-engraved SIG ballistic turret made to your specifications. Available in four reticle options and five magnification options. ($1,679.99-$3,119.99; SIGOptics.com)

Trijicon AccuPower 1-8×28

This isn’t just a great dangerous game scope; it’s a fantastic scope for just about any situation. Put it on your favorite big-game rifle or your favorite AR platform. It’s right at home no matter where you mount it. Available with either a red or green illuminated, segmented circle/MOA reticle and powered by a single lithium battery, the AccuPower is as reliable as it is versatile. It has 11 brightness settings and an off feature between each setting. The fully multi-coated, anti-reflective glass offers superior clarity and brightness. ($1,699; Trijicon.com)

Zeiss Victory SF

You’ve traveled halfway across the globe, and you’ve saved your entire life for this one moment. Are you going to trust your hunt and possibly even your life to anything but the best? With Zeiss’s Victory Smart Focus binoculars, you’ll never have to worry. Built with the highest-quality glass and a super-wide field of view, the Victory SF allows you to find what you are looking for in an instant. Even better, it has one of the smoothest focusing systems available. Choose between 8×42 and 10×42. Both weigh 27.5 ounces. ($2,849.99; Zeiss.com)

Zeiss Victory V8

The name alone should be enough, but take one look at Zeiss’s Victory V8 scopes and you’ll be sold. Built on a 36mm tube, this beefy, solid scope is the perfect all-purpose topper to your favorite dangerous game rifle. The highest-quality glass allows maximum light transmission for all hunting situations and includes a lighted reticle. Available in four models, including 1-8×30 and 1.8-14×50, you’ll be able to find and hit any target at any range. Each scope comes with a free, custom-engraved Kenton ballistic turret ring and a set of Talley rings and bases. ($2,999.99; Zeiss.com)

Meopta MeoStar B1 10×42 HD Series

It’s always better to spot dangerous game long before it spots you, right? A pair of MeoStars around your neck will help you avoid stumbling into a sleeping lion or a mad buffalo. They are made with extra-low dispersion, high-definition fluoride lens elements to eliminate color fringing in low-light conditions. Each barrel is coated with a protective rubber armor to withstand the most extreme conditions and have sculpted thumb pockets for a comfortable grip. They are guaranteed waterproof and fog-proof and come with a transferrable lifetime warranty. ($1,494.99; MeoptaSportsOptics.com)

Leica Magnus 1-6.3×24

You never realize how vital a wide field of view is until you need to find a moving target right now. With Leica’s Magnus, you’ll never worry about that. The Magnus 1-6.3×24 has a whopping 141-foot wide field of view at the lowest magnification. All Leica scopes are made with the highest quality glass, and the Magnus series includes AquaDura lens coatings. It’s available with four different lighted reticles. All include an adjustable, high-visibility center red dot. ($2,199.99; US.Leica-Camera.com)

Swarovski Z8i 1-8×24

Is there a perfect dangerous game scope? That depends on what you want, of course, but Swarovski’s Z8i series comes pretty close. The 1-8×24 includes a choice of a BRT-I or 4A-IF lighted reticle and has an impressive 127.5-foot wide field of view. There are 64 illumination levels. It’s built with a 30mm tube and Swarovski’s highest-quality glass. All lenses are fully multi-coated and have Swaroclean non-stick coating for easy cleaning. It weighs just 18.2 ounces. ($2,419; SwarovskiOptik.com)

Meopta MeoStar R2 1-6×24

Crystal-clear glass, edge-to-edge clarity, outstanding light transmission and near-perfect color reproduction not only help you hunt longer; it can help you make a shot when it matters most. You get all that and more with Meopta’s MeoStar thanks to MeoLux lens coating and an unparalleled adjustable reticle illumination system visible on even the brightest days. All external lenses are coated with MeoDrop, designed to repel water, skin oils and grease. Available with 4C and BDC reticles. ($1,839.99; MeoptaSportsOptics.com)

Editor’s Note: This article is from the April 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Gun Review: Savage MSR 15 Recon

Brian McCombie

August 31, 2017

Savage joins the AR market in a big way with four new rifles, including the sweet-shooting and fast-handling MSR 15 Recon.

Savage MSR 15 Recon Snapshot:

Savage is aggressively charging into the AR market with its line of MSRs (Modern Savage Rifle), with four already released and more on the horizon.
The tested model — the MSR 15 Recon — comes decked out in Blackhawk tactical furniture and Blackhawk flip-up sights, and boasts 5R rifling.
Through more than 400 rounds of testing, the MSR 15 Recon functioned flawlessly, though the rifle produced more recoil than expected from an AR.
The MSR 15 Recon produced the best groups shooting Hornady V-Max ammunition, with 1.5-inch five-shot groups the average.
Overall, in the author’s opinion, the MSR 15 Recon is a solid, hardworking choice for hunters, plinkers and those looking for a home-defense option.

Earlier this year, Savage entered into the AR market. Given how crowded and competitive this market has become, you might think Savage would’ve taken a cautious approach, maybe offering up a single rifle to test the waters. But they didn’t.

Instead, Savage Arms rolled out an entire line of AR-15 and AR-10 models, four rifles in all. Dubbed “MSRs,” for “Modern Savage Rifle,” the rifle line is made up of two larger-caliber MSR 10s and a pair of .223/5.56 MSR 15s, the Patrol and the Recon. Savage looks to have more MSR variations coming in the near future. That, on its own, is impressive, and fairly aggressive, too, suggesting that Savage is in the AR game for the long haul.

I had the chance to test one of these new ARs, the MSR 15 Recon model. I found it to be a very functional rifle, accurate and quite reliable. It’s good-looking, too, with a tough finish and excellent Blackhawk tactical furniture.

First Impressions
The MSR 15 Recon came with Blackhawk Flip-Up sights, front and rear. I removed the back sight to mount an optic, a new Millett DMS-2 (Designated Marksman Scope), a 1-6X24mm tactical scope. I secured the scope with a quick-detach Alamo Four Star mount, the DLOC-M4-30mm.

Before shooting, I ran some oiled cleaning patches through the barrel, and they came out clean. Next, I used spray lube on the inside of the upper receiver and the bolt carrier group. Both areas showed a light coating of oil, but I find that ARs run better wet than not, hence the extra lubrication.

I had two separate shooting sessions with the Recon and ran four different brands of ammunition through it. In all, it fired off more than 400 rounds, and I had only a single malfunction when an empty brass case didn’t eject all the way. Otherwise, no problems. The MSR 15 Recon ejected brass forcefully, flinging it a good 5-plus yards away. The bolt also stayed open at the end of each magazine.

At my first shooting session, I zeroed the Millet DMS-2 at 50 yards using Hornady V-Max ammunition, and once I was on the bullseye, I moved to 100 yards. But I didn’t do much for true accuracy testing that first day; I was more interested in finding out how the rifle operated and felt.

The rifle felt very comfortable on the shoulder. But my initial impressions included one surprise: The MSR 15 Recon recoils more than any other .223 Rem. AR I can remember. It’s nothing severe, yet the stock popped back into my shoulder with more force than any .223 Rem. I’ve shot in a good while. If I had fired the rifle blindfolded, I would’ve guessed I was using an AR chambered in .243 Win. which, in the long run, still is very manageable.

Why that extra recoil? I’m not sure, but it could have something to do with the recoil spring. The gas system is another possibility; however, Savage made it clear it had gone to some lengths to match the gas system to the rifles. According to Savage press materials:

“ … many rifles today have 16-inch, mid-length barrels paired with a carbine-length gas system intended for use with a 14-inch carbine barrel. This creates an over-gassed situation that increases recoil and reduces accuracy and durability. All Savage MSR 15 models with 16-inch barrels feature the appropriate mid-length gas system to alleviate this problem.”

If the gas system is fine, I can only guess there’s some difference in the recoil spring versus other ARs or the Blackhawk Axiom Carbine Stock isn’t absorbing much recoil. Again, to be clear, the recoil certainly isn’t aggressive enough to be a deal-breaker.

The Recon uses Blackhawk’s AR Blaze trigger. Initially, it was quite stiff and required some practice to make a shot without jerking the rifle. The trigger loosened up noticeably with use, and by my second shooting session I felt it was at “Mil-Spec Plus.” It’s not custom, but it is a solid trigger with a clean break. My Lyman Electronic Trigger Pull Gauge measured the AR Blaze at an average of 6.5 pounds.

At The Range
For accuracy testing at 100 yards, I used three brands of .223 Rem. ammunition: American Eagle Varmint & Predator, 50-grain JHP; Federal Premium Tactical Rifle Urban (Law Enforcement), 55-grain tactical ballistic tip; and Hornady V-Max, 55-grain.

I got some nice three- and four-shot groups under one inch, but I could only accomplish a single sub-MOA group for five shots. That was a .980-inch group fired with the American Eagle ammunition. That ammo also produced a four-shot group of .668 inch, while the Hornady printed a three-shot cluster at .660 inch. The Hornady V-Max also had the best average of five-shot groups at 1.5 inches.

Savage Engineering
“Savage didn’t make the decision to enter the modern sporting rifle market on a whim, and the configurations didn’t happen overnight,” said JJ Reich, Savage’s communications manager. “We’re best known for our purpose-built bolt actions. But few people realize Savage has also been in the AR business, off and on, for years, quietly creating high-quality barrels for other manufacturers, all the while honing the process to a fine art.”

For barrels on all MSR 15s, Savage employs 5R rifling. Traditional rifling cuts a symmetrical series of four to six lands and grooves directly across from each other. It works and has produced some very accurate rifle barrels. Unfortunately, the 90-degree corners where the lands meet the grooves are hard to clean; fouling can and does build up here, eventually degrading accuracy.

Plus, placing lands directly across from each other constricts bullets tightly, which can lead to deformation and negatively affect accuracy. In 5R rifling, lands are slightly slanted, in a more polygonal shape. They’re easier to clean and less prone to collect fouling. Lands are lined up across from grooves, cradling the bullet just enough to spin it without unnecessary constriction.

Savage also treats all MSR barrels, inside and out, with its “Melonite QPQ” process, the latter part being short for “quench, polish, quench.” The Melonite thermochemical process produces a long-lasting, non-reflective finish harder than chrome and that produces less friction, providing first-rate wear and corrosion resistance

In other words, there’s no worry about wetness, grime or oil sneaking in a degrading the reliability or accuracy of the gun.

Furniture on the Recon includes a free-floating M-LOK handguard and a Blackhawk Knoxx AR grip. The Knoxx grip filled my hand nicely and provided a very tactile surface. The full-length handguard offers plenty of attachment points for a variety of accessories.

The rifle’s twist rate of 1:8 should allow it to handle all loads fine, except maybe the heaviest (1:7 is usually best for these), which means recreational shooters, varmint hunters, plinkers and those needing an AR for home defense should find the Recon a solid, hard-working choice.

Editor Notes: This article is from the Fall 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

How-To: Properly Mounting a Scope on a Rifle

Steve Sieberts

August 31, 2017

Mounting a scope on a rifle is one of those things that can seem fairly straightforward on the surface, but once you actually start doing it, it can go sideways very quickly.

Steps to a precisely mount a scope:

Cleaning the threads — so they are free of any oil, grease or residue — is key at the beginning of the process, ensuring the screws fit properly.
Once the screw lengths are checked in the bases, the rings can be mounted, with a keen eye for alignment; there are nifty tools available that precisely line the rings up.
Side-to-side or angular misalignment can be corrected with a lapping tool and lapping compound; the bottom ring should be worked until there’s about 90-percent contact.
Installing Mark 4 rings and bases, the rings should be torqued to 65 in.-lbs. to ensure a tight mount.

When mounting a scope, you must make sure it’s securely mounted and installed on the rifle straight and level. It needs to be securely mounted because, obviously, you don’t want it coming off the rifle while shooting. Catching a scope in your lap, when it’s supposed to be on the rifle, is not conducive to good accuracy. Also, even slight looseness in the scope can cause huge shifts in the point of impact, especially when shooting past 100 yards.

It may seem like you have the scope on tight, but looks can be deceiving — especially with sharp recoiling firearms. You must follow proper torque settings for each part of the mounting system to ensure rock-solid optics. Straight and level are critical because you want to have available the maximum click adjustments in all directions. If you mount a scope and have to use up almost all of your windage or elevation just to get the rifle zeroed, you’ll have little to no adjustment left to account for point of impact variations in different ammunition. The scope reticle must be as mechanically centered as possible to give you the widest range of adjustment.

So for this article I’m going to focus on two types of mounting systems for a centerfire rifle, and the correct way to get the scope securely mounted so it can do its job when needed.

Two-Piece Base and Rings

The first application I’ll talk about is the standard, steel two-piece base with scope rings that utilize a dovetail mount. The dovetail ring fits into the base very snugly by rotating 90 degrees. Many manufacturers use this type of system because it’s strong. I prefer two-piece steel bases over one-piece, because with the latter, if the receiver’s mounting holes are not lined up with the screw holes machined into the base, tightening the base screws can induce stress into the scope mounting system. Granted, it won’t be much, but any stress is to be avoided for maximum accuracy. With the two-piece base, if the front set of screw holes are not aligned with the rear, you can correct that offset somewhat.

To get started, make sure the receiver threads are cleaned of any oil, grease or residue. If rebarreling the rifle, and you have the barrel off the receiver, go ahead and chase out the scope base mounting threads with a good, sharp thread tap. Often the threads have been damaged by attempts from other people to install a scope. Cross threading is a fairly common occurrence with people who are unfamiliar with firearm tools and techniques.

The dovetail system is very strong, but the front and rear ring need to be matched up and aligned for stress-free scope mounting.

If you are removing an old scope and can’t get the original screws out, they may have been screwed on too tight, or the wrong thread locking compound was used, probably the latter. Loctite makes various grades of thread adhesive. Blue is for small/fine threads that you want to be removable, red is for threads that you want to be permanent. Green is for larger threads like 1911 compensators that you don’t want to remove later. Always use blue Loctite for base screws, and never use any adhesive on the ring screws. If you can’t get the base screws off and you suspect someone used the wrong adhesive, remove the scope, and take the barreled action out of the stock. Place a wet towel around the receiver and you can carefully apply heat to the screws with a propane torch to break the bond of the adhesive.

The next step is to degrease the screws and the threads in the receiver. One of the best degreasers I’ve found is Acetone, but it is highly flammable. Automotive brake cleaner works well, too, and has an additional benefit of being in aerosol form. Compressed air is very useful when mounting scopes, or anytime working on firearms around the home workshop. I have a small air compressor from Sears that I bought new for about $120.00 that works very well around the shop.

Once the base screws are degreased, mount the front and rear bases without thread locker. Remove the front base screw and look down into the threads of the receiver and the tip of the screws to see if the screw has bottomed out on the barrel threads. If it has, shorten the screw on a bench grinder to make sure there is no contact between the front screws and the barrel extension. Don’t use a file on the screws — they are too hard and you will end up damaging the file. Screw the bases down onto the receiver and attach the rings to the base.

The front and rear scope rings need to be centered with each other. The alignment tool is very useful to see if the rings are misaligned.

With the Mark 4 mounting system explained later, always attach the rings with the large, keeper nuts to the left of the receiver, rather than on the right, as you don’t want anything interfering with the proper ejection of cases. However, with the dovetail mounting system, attach the top half of the ring of the front set and rotate the ring into the dovetail with a 1-inch piece of wooden dowel rod; a hammer handle works as well. Leupold makes a handy ring wrench for this purpose. The dovetail system causes the most frequent misalignment issues with regards to the front and rear rings, although you also want to check misalignment with the Mark 4 mounting system. The rear ring is adjustable for windage and you want to get that as centered as possible.

When selecting the rings for your particular rifle, always try to get the correct height for your gun. Most scope manufacturers offer low, medium and high rings to accommodate various mounting situations. Choose the combination that mounts the rings at the lowest possible height.

With both rings mounted on the bases, check front to rear ring alignment. Brownells makes a nifty scope ring alignment tool for this task that checks for angular misalignment. With today’s modern mounting systems, you will not likely have to shim the bases to get the rings aligned for elevation, but with side to side or angular misalignment you will need to correct with a lapping tool. Install the scope alignment tool onto the rings and lap them with the lapping compound and plenty of oil until you get about 90 percent contact with the bottom ring. When lapping the rings in, rotate the tool side to side as you run it front to back. Use a figure-eight motion. This will put even pressure all the way around the base of the ring. Check your work as you go, keep good contact. Eventually, you will remove the finish from the bottom of the ring and you will see what kind of contact you are getting.

The scope needs to be mounted as close as possible to the barrel, without touching.

Once you have the rings lapped in, remove them and the bases and clean all lapping compound and oil before reinstalling the bases. This time, apply blue Loctite on the base screws only. I usually clean everything with a good solvent, then degrease using acetone or brake cleaner.

Mark the bottom rings so you don’t get them mixed up. Put the mark on the left side of the rings for orientation — a single stake mark on the rear ring and double stake mark on the front ring. This ensures proper orientation after lapping in the rings. Install the bases. Tighten the base screws down using a torque wrench, the 6-48 screws to about 22 in.-lbs., the larger 8-40 screws torqued to 26 in.-lbs.

Leupold Mark 4 Mounts and Ring System

The other type of system I’ll cover is the Mark 4 mount and ring system from Leupold, which uses a Picatinny rail for the base. These all-steel ring and base systems are very tough.

The lapping tool, with a small amount of lapping compound, will make the rings round and concentric.

When installing the Mark 4 rings and bases, the large ½-inch keeper screws on the rings should be torqued to 65 in.-lbs. Install the rings and use the scope ring alignment tool to line everything up. Make sure you have equal gap between the top and bottom rings, this maintain even pressure when you tighten the top ring screws. And it looks much more professional.

This article is an excerpt from Custom Gunsmithing for Self-Defense Firearms.

6 Simple Ways To Sharpen Your Shot For Hunting Season

Elwood Shelton

August 30, 2017

We’re still frittering away the dog days of summer, but before you know it, hunting season will be upon us. Have you put the work in to be truly ready when you go out to chase deer, elk or what have you? Luckily, there is ample time to make sure you hit the mark when it matters most. With this in mind, here are 6 simple ways to ready yourself for hunting season. They won’t guarantee you bag a trophy, but they’ll have you prepared if the opportunity presents itself.

Choose Your Ammunition
Screw It
Sight In Your Rifle
Get Off The Bench
Break A Sweat
Shoot In Your Gear

Choose Your Ammunition

The day before you head afield to bag that Boone and Crockett whitetail is no time to switch up ammunition. The box of 180-grain soft-points you pluck off the shelf at the outfitters is going to perform differently out of your .30-06 than those 150-grain boat tails you’ve practiced with all summer. The least appropriate time to test the difference between each projectile’s wind drift at 400 yards is when there’s a slobberknocker in your crosshairs.

Well before the season starts you should already be going through your ammunition selection process. This includes brushing up on its potential terminal ballistics (does it have what it takes to get the job done?). Test out the round to make certain it performs in your rifle (not every gun likes every load). Get familiar with your chosen round by pitching plenty of it downrange (make certain you aren’t going to flinch come crunch time).

Knowing your ammunition will give you the extra boost of confidence you’ll need in the field and will pay off when you have your wall-hanger in your sights.

Screw It

Screws come loose. That’s the nature of the universe. And few things foul up a hunting trip faster than loose screws that result in a scope rattling in its rings or an action bouncing off its bedding. Plain and simple, your gun isn’t going to shoot straight. This situation is avoidable with a point-by-point check of your rifle.

Armed with your torque-limiting screwdriver and factory-recommended torque specs (available at most gunmakers’ websites), check to make certain the action screws are tightened to spec. Next move to the scope; make sure it won’t rotate or slide forward and back in the rings. Also, make sure the mounts don’t have any give to them. If they do, it’s time to pull the scope and cinch up those base screws. It’s handy to have some blue Loctite (repeat BLUE Loctite) and a torque wrench on hand for your scope work.

By all accounts, if you take care of your rifle and shoot it regularly, these should be issues you troubleshot long ago. But it doesn’t hurt to add a layer of redundancy to your hunting regime.

Sight In Your Rifle

Sighting in your rifle is perhaps the single most important pre-season prep you can do. If your scope isn’t on target, how the heck do you expect to hit anything?

There are numerous methods you can use to dial in your rifle, including this handy one from Wayne van Zwoll. And it’s best to do this off a bench on a calm day to eliminate all the possible variables. But sighting in shouldn’t be a one-time deal.

Unless you’re only heading down the road an hour or so from where you live, you should plan on checking your zero once you reach deer or elk or bighorn camp. Jostling around behind your pick-up truck’s seat or getting flung about by airport baggage handlers has the tendency of rousing the gun gremlins. But there’s potentially another reason you should double-check your zero — elevation.

If you leave the flatlands and head into the high country (or vice versa) the atmospheric pressure will have an impact on your bullet’s trajectory. At most typical hunting ranges (200 yards and in), it will be minimal. But go out to 400 yards and beyond, and the difference in bullet drop is measured in inches.

Even if you don’t plan on taking a long shot, it’s worth a couple of rounds just to get a feel for where your bullets are hitting when you’ve added or subtracted 8,000 feet of elevation.

Get Off The Bench

Chances are you aren’t packing a benchrest on your hunting trip. So, it would be a good idea to take some shots in the likely positions you’ll be forced to use in the field. At the bare minimum, this means getting some off-hand shots under your belt and some from the kneeling position.

If possible, it would be a good idea to shoot off equipment you plan to use on your hunt. The only time of year you shoot off sticks shouldn’t be when a top-notch bull elk cuts from the herd. Loop up that sling and hold your target for a good spell. Get your belly in the dirt and build your shooting base off your hunting pack. It’s uncomfortable, grimy and doesn’t always leave those neat little clover-leaf groups we all love. But it’s the sort of sweat equity and forethought that irons out the little kinks of practical shooting and earns you a dang fine rack and a freezer full of meat come the end of the day.

Break A Sweat

Hunting is a physical activity, but there are plenty of people who don’t prepare for it that way. The range is a comfortable place, especially when sub-MOA groups print like they’re rolling off a press. But really, will you have a low heart rate and crystal-clear head when you pull the trigger on that dream mule deer? Didn’t think so.

Most likely, you’re going to have to hump in a good distance to get to your hunting grounds. You’re going to have to execute a stalk once you find your game, almost certainly over rugged terrain. And even if you plan to sit in a treestand or a ground blind, chances are you’ll still be hunting on the way in, with a load of gear on your back. Each and every one of these scenarios will get your heart pumping and your muscles quaking — far from ideal circumstances for placing a precision shot.

You can, however, make certain your aim is steady, even if your body is fighting you before the season starts. A little physical exertion before you shoulder your rifle at the range can go a long way to acclimate you to taking a realistic shot in the field. Yes, it might seem a bit out of place cracking off a set of jumping jacks before settling down behind the trigger. But doing so, you’ll learn how to relax your mind and body quickly, manage and minimize your arc of movement (especially if you aren’t shooting off a rest) and incorporate proper breath control in the blink of an eye.

Sure the guy in the next lane — the one that hasn’t moved six inches in the past hour — might give you the cockeye. But he’ll be the one at a loss when he’s winded and shaky at the moment of truth.

Shoot In Your Gear

Actually, you needn’t get completely decked out in everything you plan to take into the wilds at the range. But it is worth your time to wake up your muscle memory to what it feels like to shoulder your rifle with your gear on.

A thick coat, straps on your pack and winter hunting gloves all drastically change how even the most familiar rifle fits your frame and how you’ll operate it. Now is the time to remember how everything comes together with all those extra layers on. Are you still getting a tight cheek weld? How about the trigger; can you cleanly squeeze it? That pack, is it going to inhibit your shot?

Some good old home-based dry fire should do the trick in diagnosing how your gear interacts with your rifle. And don’t hold back. Do more than just shoulder your rifle off-hand and call it good. Get into the logical positions you’ll use in the field, and make sure there are no hang-ups of any kind. This goes double if you’ve bought brand new gear, of which you are unfamiliar.

Like all successful shots, the ones made hunting are about controlling variables. It’s better to account for them now when you can do something about them than when that once-in-a-lifetime moose vaporizes back into the timber because you couldn’t get you’re gloved finger into the trigger guard.

Going the Distance

With Gun Digest Book of Long-Range Shooting, 2nd Edition by L.P. Brezny, get up-to-date with the most recent advances in guns and gear to extend your range for hunting, informal target shooting, and formal competition shooting. This second edition also explores special competitive shooting events, like the 3-gun competition and rifle golf 1000-1500-yard games, addressing their recent explosion in popularity. Additionally, discover new tools for long-range shooters both in the field and on the firing range, with coverage of new developments due to advances in military applied combat theory. Get Your Copy Now

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GUN DIGESTWE KNOW GUNS SO YOU KNOW GUNS

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Inventory and inspection

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Upper and lower assembly

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How does a muzzle brake work?

There are times, under the principle of disparity of force, that deadly force can be used against unarmed assailants. One of the prime examples is when facing multiple attackers.

CMMG has joined the ranks of gunmakers chambering ARs for the increasingly popular 6.5 Creedmoor, and its new Mk3 DTR2 in that caliber doesn’t disappoint.

How To Trick Out Your AR-15:

The Colt Trooper Patrol Carbine offers shooters a more versatile M4 Carbine, complete with a highly configurable, specialized forend.

From Customization to Performance: Our Best AR-15 Insights

Having a case for your firearms is crucial in keeping them protected and secure. Check out these 14 easy steps for building a custom gun case.

The best handguns for women often land outside the pink-it and shrink-it category.

The new Savage Model 10 GRS features a high-tech adjustable stock and is capable of serious long-range performance.

Get Even More Savage:

What are some of the most classic revolvers:

Colt Single Action Army

Colt Detective Special

Smith & Wesson Model 19

Ruger Blackhawk

Colt Python

Smith & Wesson Model 29

Freedom Arms Model 83

Heckler & Koch’s P7 series of pistols are truly unique, not only due to their delayed-blowback system, but also due to their peculiar squeeze-grip cocking mechanism.

Hunting dangerous game requires you to be on your toes, and that includes using some of the best optics possible for the job.

Dangerous game optics:

Swarovski EL 42

Vortex Viper PST Gen II 1-6×24

SIG Sauer Zulu 9

SIG Sauer TANGO6

Trijicon AccuPower 1-8×28

Zeiss Victory SF

Zeiss Victory V8

Meopta MeoStar B1 10×42 HD Series

Leica Magnus 1-6.3×24

Swarovski Z8i 1-8×24

Meopta MeoStar R2 1-6×24

Savage joins the AR market in a big way with four new rifles, including the sweet-shooting and fast-handling MSR 15 Recon.

Savage MSR 15 Recon Snapshot:

Mounting a scope on a rifle is one of those things that can seem fairly straightforward on the surface, but once you actually start doing it, it can go sideways very quickly.

Steps to a precisely mount a scope:

Two-Piece Base and Rings

Leupold Mark 4 Mounts and Ring System

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