Learn how to make a wikiup survival shelter using forest debris, such as leaves and branches, to keep warm in an outdoors emergency.
A wikiup shelter is at least a five- to six-hour project, even taking up an entire day, and requires regular resupply of leaves. Remember to gather debris farther away from the build site and work your way in for less traveling in the later stages.
A wikiup is essentially a “teepee” style shelter made with forest debris. There are other less time-consuming primitive shelters that you can make in a pinch. However, in a longer term survival scenario in colder weather, the wikiup is king for an important reason: it allows the use of a fire inside the shelter.
Note that no tools are need to make this survival shelter. This makes it ideal for a scenario where you may have been separated from your survival gear.
Wikiup Step 1: Prep the Space
Start by clearing the forest floor where the wikiup will be built. Don't throw those sticks and leaves too far, as they will be used later.
Wikiup Step 2: Make a Tripod
You then need to find three main support poles. These need to be strong, as they will be bearing a lot of weight by the end of this build.
You may choose to secure these poles together with a tripod lashing, although it is not necessary. I like to use poles with a “Y” shape on one end so that they can be locked together and spread apart at the bottoms to make the basic tripod for the survival shelter.
Wikiup Step 3: Add More Poles
Once the tripod is in place, continue to place straight poles around the circumference of the shelter. Place the poles as close to one another as you feel necessary, but don't worry about closing all the gaps. They'll be filled in soon enough.
Wikiup Step 4: Add Insulation
By this point your shelter will start to look like a home. However, the real work is about to begin.
The next objective is to get insulation/shingles installed. For that you will be using forest debris.
This is no different than putting shingles on a house. Start at the bottom and work your way up. The same is true with any primitive shelter. This allows the survival shelter to properly shred rain. If you get this wrong you may not get another chance to correct it.
Continue to piles leaves, pine needles and any other debris in the area to the wikiup. The more insulation added, the more dead air space that can be trapped and ultimately the warmer the inside of the shelter will become.
Sleeping in the Wikiup
Once a sufficient amount of insulation and rain protection is installed, it's time to think about the sleeping options for this shelter.
For me, provided that I don't have any modern gear, I would opt for a post bed. It's as simple as it gets. You first place a pole to one side of the wikiup (making sure to give yourself enough room to lay comfortably), and then you fill the cavity with the driest debris you can find.
The pole you place on the edge of the bed with help keep the leaves in places as you add to your bed, and also keep them away from the fire at night. I recommend adding as much debris as you can, then laying down on top of them repeatedly to condense everything into a thick mattress. This will keep you off the cold ground.
The last step is to gather firewood and bust out that bow drill kit, or ferro rod if you were prepared, and smoke the creepy crawlies out of the shelter before laying down for the night.
I have spent a lot of time over the years staying in wikiups and they are extremely comfortable, even on the coldest winter nights.
Weather stripping and plastic window insulation are perfect winter preparedness tasks to do now before the deep cold hits.
As we get ever closer to our annual rendezvous with Old Man Winter, we human beings are sort of biologically, as well as psychologically, wired to batten down the hatches, so to speak. For many of us, we go into full “prep” mode, striving to stock up on everything and anything. This isn't a bad idea, provided you don't go overboard with it and miss a mortgage payment because you couldn't resist buying three pallets of toilet paper, even if the price was absolutely stellar.
For those new to prepping, what follows is a short list of chores you might consider adding to your To Do list before winter hits. For the more experienced among you, consider these reminders to ensure they get done properly.
Fall Prepping Chore #1: Stock Up on Firewood
If you have a fireplace or wood stove, lay in a good supply of seasoned firewood. While a couple cords of split logs are great, don't forget the smaller stuff for kindling.
Several years ago, I built a small cubby in our attached garage where we can store enough firewood to last a few days at a time. It is an unheated garage and the cubby is on the opposite side from the house, so I'm not overly concerned about bugs getting into the home from the wood.
We also have a lawn cart that we'll fill with kindling and wood scraps. I don't know about you, but I've found strips of thick bark are awesome for kindling. I'm to the point now where I'll often strip off bark from logs before bringing them into the house, setting the bark aside for kindling for future fires.
Fall Prepping Chore #2: Turn Off Spigots
Turn off and cover all outdoor spigots. Pipes bursting due to ice is never a good thing. Head to your local hardware store and spend the buck or two on foam covers for the spigots. If you have a shut off valve inside the home for those faucets, turn them off and drain the water that remains in the line.
Fall Prepping Chore #3: Insulate
Install weatherstripping and insulation as needed around all doors and windows. Older homes in particular can be very drafty. In an emergency, when the furnace isn't pumping out warm air, you want to prevent cold air coming in as much as possible.
Fall Prepping Chore #4: Check Cold Weather Gear
Check all snow shovels and other snow removal equipment and repair or replace as needed. When there is a foot of snow on the ground is not the time to remember your snow shovel broke last year and you never got around to buying a new one. While you're at it, pick up a bag or two of salt or sand.
Fall Prepping Chore #5: Cover Outdoor Furniture
Store or cover your patio furniture and grills. Melting snow will rust grill burners. I learned that the hard way. If something were to happen that would necessitate using the grill in place of your stove top, it would be easy enough to wheel it out of the garage or uncover it.
Fall Prepping Chore #6: Clean Gutters
Clear all gutters of leaves and debris. Gutters freezing up leads to ice dams along the roof overhang, which is a costly repair.
Fall Prepping Chore #7: Review Cold Weather Clothes
Go through your winter outerwear (coats, snow pants, boots, etc.) and inspect each item. Repair or replace anything that isn't in good condition. Make sure everything still fits, too.
Fall Prepping Chore #8: Take Advantage of Grocery Deals
Stock up on staples. As we approach the holidays, you'll notice many grocery stores put certain items on sale at very low prices. I'm talking about things like baking ingredients (flour, sugar, butter, mixes) as well as hams and turkeys. If you have room to store these things, stock up when the prices are low.
Fall Prepping Chore #9: Check Vehicle Emergency Kits
Inspect all vehicle emergency kits. Replace anything you've used up through the year, rotate food and water supplies. Be sure you have a good ice scraper in the car, too.
Fall Prepping Chore #10: Stock Up on Entertainment
If you don't have it already, get yourself a DVD copy of A Charlie Brown Christmas. Seriously, this is, hands down, the best Christmas special to ever air on TV. Don't count on being able to remember to tune in when it airs this year.
Here's how to treat a black widow spider bite from Dr. James Hubbard, MD. Learn to spot symptoms and know where this spider likes to hide.
Colder temperatures mean spiders are headed indoors. In many parts of the country, that includes black widows. Here's how to treat a black widow bite.
Black Widows: Know Your Spider
Black widows typically have some sort of red marking on their abdomens, but not always. The marking is usually shaped like an hourglass. These spiders live under eaves and around undisturbed debris, woodpiles, porch furniture, barns, sheds and outhouses.
Signs and Symptoms of a Black Widow Spider Bite
If you get a black widow spider bite, you may experience some or all of these symptoms:
painful bite (but not always)
two tiny fang marks, possibly a little red mark, maybe some swelling (but sometimes there’s no evidence of the bite)
muscle aches and cramping of the abdomen, back and extremities that can be severe
increased sweating or salivation
elevated blood pressure
rarely, seizures or respiratory difficulties that can result in death, usually in children
symptoms usually peak within about 12 hours but can continue for several days
How to Treat a Black Widow Spider Bite
Apply cold packs to the bite area intermittently for five- to 10-minute intervals. (Place a cloth between the pack and the skin.)
Call the regional poison control office for advice. Its number should be on your speed dial. Find the number for your regional office at www.aapcc.org.
Seek medical care, if possible. There is an antivenom for those who develop severe symptoms.
Wash the bite area with soap and water, and apply an antibacterial ointment.
Take whatever you have for the pain. Often, strong narcotics are needed.
Hello and welcome to what I hope will be a long running and helpful column for the disabled community. There will be some inconvenient truths revealed and discussed, along with ideas and helpful web resources cited.
A bit about me. I live in Earthquake Faults, Nevada, am a non-service connected veteran (NSC), and an incomplete paraplegic, but am studying for my finals! I have Primary Progressive MS, and did a bout with prostate cancer, with the treatment leaving me in the state I’m in, as well as being temperature sensitive (heat and cold) and photosensitive due to medications. About the last statement- it was a 50-50 chance that things would go south, I knew this going in and made my choices.
Unabashed Public Service announcement: Guys age 30 on- get your Christmas Goose during your annual physicals, as a PSA won’t always show a problem!
Prior to diagnosis, I have worked in medical, engineering, architectural, electrical engineering and legal fields, am pro-Second Amendment and pro-privacy, along with being a DIY type person, and was known to go camping 24/7/365 in the desert. My wife is a retired RN who volunteers with the local Red Cross and other disaster response agencies.
The Web as we know it is a wealth of information. It’s great for newsfeeds, for gathering intelligence on various issues after proper sifting and to find what disaster protections exist to help or hinder you, and to source ideas to make your life a bit easier before and during disaster strikes.
Now for anyone not bound by physical limitations, bugging out is viable, for a lot of us bugging in is going to be the reality that we deal with. Add to that hygiene, especially critical during emergencies, environmental conditions to deal with and getting necessary medications, and if you have a service animal (SA), then the fun(?) truly begins.
I’m sure everyone has read all the bugging out and bugging in lists of necessities. They are good thinking points, but as every disability issue has different needs and necessities combined with basic survival needs, I’ll leave you with the following thing points.
What is your bugging out and bugging in reality?
What types of medications do you use and what is their availability and storage conditions?
What type mobility device do you use? (manual chair, power chair or scooter, crutches, etc.?)
What type of personal transportation do you use? (adapted van, vehicle with mobility device carrier, etc.)
These topics are complete discussions unto themselves. A serious assessment and realization of their limitations and pluses will be discussed in future columns. As there is no real right, wrong or in between answers, I would ask readers to weigh in on this.
Remember, we are on the bottom of the food chains of disaster response and evacuation, much less any LEO protection.
Is high-velocity ammunition for your handgun worth the extra cost? – John Q., Living Ready reader
High-Velocity Ammunition Answer
Good question, John. My opinion is, for the average shooter, probably not.
Handgun ammo comes in many different loadings within caliber. High-velocity ammunition varieties (often referred to as “+P”) come with higher combustion pressures and more sophisticated bullet designs. Advanced projectiles upset more (increase their frontal area) to create a larger wound channel, and higher pressures produce more energy transfer into the human body. The desired result is faster incapacitation, and if you know you can handle it, this is a good thing. For experienced shooters the extra cost is well worth it.
What's the Problem with High-Velocity Ammunition?
The problem is higher pressures bring more recoil and muzzle flash. In some loadings, this means a lot more recoil and flash. This is especially significant when the gun must be fired at night.
High-velocity handgun rounds can create a muzzle flash or “bloom” (especially in today’s shorty handguns) so distracting that it can take you out of the fight tactically by destroying your night vision.
With a lot of practice, you can learn to tolerate the recoil and using a tactical light properly can reduce the flash effects. In my experience, most civilians and many cops don’t practice enough to overcome either side effect of the high velocity loadings. The increase in stopping power may then be offset by poor shot placement. And if you have not fired your “duty round” in the dark, you really have no idea what you are carrying.
Standard Velocity Ammunition May Offer Better Results
I teach my rookies that the most significant factor in surviving a gunfight is the ability to put an aimed round of adequate ballistics in the center mass of the adversary before they get one into you. That doesn’t mean that you rush the shot. It means that you quickly decide you need to shoot and smoothly present the gun, acquire the front sight and press the trigger.
Plus P ammunition has no positive bearing on that dynamic, and in fact, may retard it. If you fear the recoil or flash of the weapon, you will likely not be smooth and decisive when it counts. A solid torso hit with a standard velocity hollow point is better than a miss with your super-zipper-zombie-zapper any day.
Ammo choices have also been complicated by the shortages caused by the recent panic buying situation. Most folks don’t store a lot of ammo and you may find that your usual loading has vanished from the shelves. If that happens, I recommend a lower velocity loading than a higher one as an alternative unless you can get quickly to the range and try out the new stuff.
I don’t want anybody to feel under-gunned with standard velocity loads. Shot placement trumps bullet energy, and there is no such thing as a guaranteed fight stopper pistol bullet. (Remember, a handgun is what you take if you don’t think you are going to get into a gunfight.)
So in a gun store with staff you trust, ask them to recommend a standard velocity, hollow point load and practice with it. If you practice regularly with the ammunition you use for personal defense you should be just fine. When in doubt, go with standard velocity.
(Note: If you are really interested in how bullets do their job and what actual autopsy data suggests are the best loads for your gun, get the definitive work in the field, Handgun Stopping Power, by Marshall and Sanow. It is very readable and I recommend it highly.)
And remember, please, every person has unique needs and capacities and every armed encounter is different. When developing your defensive tactics always get a second opinion.
The Maxxeon WorkStar 330 Hunter's Pocket Floodlight is perfect for focusing an even wash of light over a work area. Consider adding one to your survival kit. (Photo via Maxxeon.com)
I can't say I'm a true flashlight nut, but I do appreciate having something reliable to light up the night. I've owned several Maglites of various sizes, as well as several other name brand and off brand lights.
The light has a rubberized RealTree camo print coating. While the camo pattern is nice and all, the coating itself immediately grabs your attention, as well as your fingers. It has an almost-but-not-quite sticky feeling. From the first time you hold it, you have no worries about dropping it, even if your hands are wet.
The Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight takes 3 AAA batteries, which are included. What is really nice is these batteries are Energizers, not some no name brand. You unscrew either end of the light to insert the batteries and the battery placement diagram is right on the package. Though, if you miss seeing it and put the batteries in wrong, it is a simple matter to reverse them so the light turns on properly.
At 6.5″, it is a bit longer than other flashlights of this general size. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, just an observation.
The on/off button is at the butt end of the light. You have two options, either press it lightly and hold or press it firmly until it clicks on. The button is a little stiff but I like that as it will help prevent the light from being turned on in your pocket or pack.
There is a pen clip on the side of the light, so you can keep it secured in a shirt pocket or attach it to the brim of a ball cap.
The threaded joints as well as the glass lens have embedded O rings, making the light water resistant. The on/off button is also covered in rubber, completely sealing the inner workings of the light. The cap on the button is also glow-in-the-dark, though it didn't glow all that brightly for me. But, really, if you need a glow-in-the-dark button to tell you which end is which on this light, you have some serious issues.
Using the Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight
Information provided by Maxxeon states the Pocket Floodlight puts out about 140 lumens. I have no real way to test whether it is truly 140 lumens, but I can tell you this. If you accidentally shine it into your eyes, your reaction is going to be along the lines of OH MY GOD, TURN IT OFF! followed by rapid blinking as you try to get rid of this floating ball of light that seems to now be permanently part of your vision. This is an extremely bright light.
What is really cool about this light is that there are no “hot spots” or shadows. With most pen lights and other flashlights, you'll get a bright spot in the center, then it sort of fades out around that. With the special reflector Maxxeon has devised, here you get a bright light that is consistent from side to side. It also shines at sort of a 1:1 ratio, meaning the circle of shining light is roughly the same diameter as the distance between the light and the object. In other words, holding the light 12 inches from a wall gives you roughly a 12 inches diameter circle of light.
For comparison purposes, I took both the Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight and one of my Mini Maglites outside at night. Standing about seven feet away from my grill, here is what the Mini Maglite illuminated.
From the same distance, here is what the Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight showed:
There are few downsides to this light, in my opinion. With other pen lights, you can twist the lens and the light adjusts narrow or wide. There is no such adjustment here. I don't know that it is truly needed, though.
This light also isn't great for distance. It is a flood light, meaning it, well, floods the area with light. This is as opposed to a spotlight, that allows you to focus the beam onto a specific area. Again, not a bad thing as long as you understand that going in.
Information from Maxxeon states the battery life is about 2 hours to half-life and 4 hours total of useable light. Admittedly, I've not used a stopwatch every time I've turned the light on but I can say I've spent a LOT of time playing with this thing outside at night and it has yet to even noticeably dim.
With the batteries installed, the Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight weighs in at about an ounce. Heavy enough to where you'll know it is in your hand, yet light enough to carry in your pack or pocket without concern.
Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight: The Verdict
The Maxxeon Pocket Floodlight retails for about $45, plus shipping. This product would make for an excellent addition to any survival kit, particularly one stored in a vehicle so as to not only provide light for repairs but also to signal for help.
The Ruger Single Seven is a dandy new mini-magnum that is perfect for small-game hunting and worth serious consideration as a lightweight, authoritative survival gun.
From Ruger single actions and the latest big bore .44, to European-styled No.1 rifles, here's a few new dandies from the Ruger stable.
At the 2015 SHOT Show, there was no doubt as to which gun company won the award for most new products. Despite incredible sales and production demands over the last few years, Ruger’s product development guys steadfastly manned their stations and showed up in Vegas with lots of cool new stuff for shooters. Perhaps best of all is that when Ruger announces new guns, the company has production items in stock and ready to ship. Gone are the days when a new product announcement was simply a promise of something good to come at an undetermined future date. Having something new means they have some boxed and ready to travel. If you end up having to wait for product, it’s because you were slow to react and initial stocks were gobbled up.
Ruger Redhawk .44
The Ruger Redhawk in .44 Magnum with 2.75-inch barrel doesn’t really qualify as a pocket pistol, but it may be the most effective and decisive CCW weapon ever. Photo by the author.
As a longtime handgunner, I have to start with the short-barrel products, and being a big-bore believer, I’m homing in on the new compact Redhawk in .44 Magnum. The stainless steel revolver sports a 2.75-inch barrel, weighs in at just under 3 pounds and holds six rounds of whatever brand and power level of .44 you’d care to load and think you can control. It has the small, fitted wood grips that I remember on the first Redhawks introduced around 1980. It’s good looking and compatible with smaller hands (unlike some other magnums,) but with recoil that can become quite unpleasant as the power level of the ammo increases.
Sharp edges have been rounded, or dehorned if you prefer, to minimize any damage the Redhawk may inflict on your hands in recoil, but as is the case with all magnums, you will still need to determine what level of performance you can handle.
With .44 Special ammo at 800-900 feet per second, the Redhawk rivals the .45 ACP for fight-stopping potential, at least for the first 6 rounds, and it doesn’t get much better than that. Should you want more power or penetration, Buffalo Bore, Corbon and Double Tap offer higher velocity .44 Special ammo loaded with jacketed hollowpoints or heavyweight hard cast bullets. For me, the “lightest load” from Garret Cartridges of Texas featuring a 310-grain hard cast lead bullet that generates around 1,000 fps was about all I wanted to handle, but it will still penetrate anything you might encounter.
When a group of writers attended a seminar at Ruger to fire a pre-production model of the compact Redhawk, the only guy “tough enough” to shoot more than a cylinder of full-power 240-grain .44 Magnum factory ammo was a strapping young Border Patrol agent. While I liked the gun on sight and knew it would make a great general-purpose revolver, my happy quotient was fully satisfied after six rounds of the heavy ammo. If you want to flatten the trajectory with higher velocity, you might look at some Magnum loads with the lighter 180-grain bullets and determine at what velocity your tolerance for recoil is reached. Given the Redhawk’s short sight radius and limited range, I’m more interested in maximizing power with heavier bullets at lower velocities inside 50 yards.
The perfect package for a day afield: a new Ruger Bearcat with adjustable sights, a brick of Federal ammo, a good pocket knife and a handy flashlight in case you want to stay out after dark.
The rear sight is fully adjustable with a white outline surrounding the notch. The front sight has a red plastic insert for enhanced visibility and is mounted in a slot cut into the heavy rib on top of the barrel.
It can be replaced by a different sight simply by pushing in the spring-loaded pin and lifting the sight off. The red plastic insert is nicely visible against a dark background as long as there is adequate ambient light. The red becomes dramatically less visible as light diminishes. I find the factory red insert quite serviceable for general use and as a field gun.
Capable of both single- and double-action firing (with a very smooth double-action pull) the Redhawk is better than many magnums in the event things deteriorate and you find yourself in a defensive situation. Mounted in a Galco D.A.O. belt holster, the compact .44 is readily accessible and can be carried for long periods of time with little or no discomfort.
Ruger Single Seven .327 Fed Mag
A few years back, Ruger chambered its classic Single Six revolver in .32 H&R Magnum. This year, the Single Six is again available in a magnum caliber, only now it holds seven rounds of Federal’s .327 Magnum. While the power output is increased by 50 percent over the original .32 Mag., you can still shoot the original .32s for small game and a quieter field trip. Since this is the same size gun as your first Ruger .22 single action, there’s no learning curve; you’re as good a man as you were when you got that first Ruger .22 at age 16!
Except for its stainless steel, the .327 Fed. Mag. Single Seven is the classic .22 Ruger with larger holes in the barrel and cylinder. Good news is that all three of the “classic” single-action barrel lengths are available: 4.75, 5.5 and 7.5 inches. During some very brief range time, I was able to shoot all three. My quick conclusion is that the 7.5-inch barrel had slightly more muzzle flip with the more powerful .327 loads, while the 4.75-inch was easiest to carry. The 5.5-inch was a compromise but felt more like the 4.75-inch barrel. Advantage of sight radius goes to the longest barrel, although all of the models have the adjustable, black Ruger single-action revolver sights that are quite good for daylight hunting.
Ruger’s No. 1 RSI-International rifle in .257 Roberts may not be for everyone, but the international touch of a full-length stock has always been able to loosen the author’s purse strings.
The variety of factory ammunition available for the .327 is excellent. Cast and jacketed hollowpoint .32 Mag loads are available from Black Hills and Double Tap, while Hornady offers their Critical Defense FTX bullet load. More powerful .327 Magnum loads come from Federal (jacketed hollowpoints) and Double Tap (both JHPs and heavier 115-grain hard cast solids). Depending on barrel length, you can get anywhere from 800-1,600 fps. This may be the ideal small- or medium-game gun and caliber combination, and if I don’t get a chance at jack rabbits and javelina this spring, the .327 and I will go after prairie dogs this summer at the SPUR Ranch in Wyoming.
Ruger Bearcat .22
Also in the Lilliputian category, Ruger has introduced a long awaited variation of the Bearcat, this one with adjustable sights. Slightly smaller than the Single Six, the Bearcat is all steel (either blue or stainless), sports a 4.2-inch barrel, weighs 24 ounces and holds six rounds of .22 Long Rifle ammo. The front and rear sight look like the adjustable sight system on the Single Six with a wide ramp front blade and fully adjustable rear blade with a wide notch. Given enough ambient light, even I can get a good sight picture without glasses. I’m not sure whether the Bearcat is intended as a first gun for young kids or the final plinking revolver for older guys with fading vision. If this Bearcat had been available when I was young, I would have purchased it as my first handgun, then given it to my kids and taught them how to shoot with it, and finally tried to borrow it back in my “golden years.”
Like Ruger’s other modern revolvers, the new Bearcat has the two-screw frame and transfer-bar system and also a half-cock position for the hammer. Opening the loading gate does not release the cylinder to turn freely; only putting the hammer at half cock allows you to rotate the cylinder for loading and unloading. Cylinder chambers align perfectly with the ejector rod at the cylinder stop points. Despite the gun’s petite size, the hammer is quite wide – much like the Super Blackhawk. With serrations on the spur, it was extremely easy to operate with the thumb of either hand. What a dandy gun for an afternoon walkabout in the country!
For years Ruger has offered a limited selection of their No. 1 single-shot rifles with Mannlicher (full length) wood stocks in a few calibers. This is the Model RSI-International, and production lines do not run year-round, so availability of the different calibers can be restricted. Last year, Ruger introduced a new caliber in the rifle, the .257 Roberts. What a great American caliber choice for a European-style rifle! New this year is the 6.5×55, truly a European caliber for a European/International-type rifle.
Guns are an exclusive through Lipsey’s Wholesale Firearms Distributor. Lacking an action behind the barrel, these rifles are incredibly compact and handy with their 20-inch barrels. If your shooting objectives are to maximize the number of rounds downrange in the minimum amount of time, this is not the gun for you. But for those of you who like precise shooting and also suffer from my “long stock” affliction, they are irresistible, and Ruger seems interested in making them available in additional calibers. I have the .257 in my vault but have not yet scoped and fired it. If I can obtain a 6.5 and a writing assignment, perhaps a handful of fellow cultists will have some interesting reading next year.
Worthy of mention is that the Red Label over/under shotgun has been taken out of production. It was put on hiatus for a couple of years recently and then made a brief comeback, but this may be the end of the line for the Ruger scattergun. Although, the company has made no official announcement as of this writing.
Other surprises will be forthcoming from Ruger as the year moves ahead, but in keeping with their “No production quantities, no announcements” policy, we’ll have to wait and see. Meanwhile, keep an eye on the Ruger website; if you see it there, it’s available.
The ABCs of Rifle Shooting by David Watson teaches you how to hone your skills to achieve the achieve the best results in the game fields of rifle range. Learn more
Been thinking about using reloaded handgun ammo as your concealed carry choice? It's not as cut-and-dried as you might think.
Reader Question:
I’ve been thinking about reloading carry ammo for my personal defense gun, but I’ve read a lot on forums that it’s a big no-no. I reload for hunting and matches to get the best performance, so why not do the same for the ammo I bet my life on? —Bill McDonald, Powell, Wyo.
Gun Digest Responds:
Thanks for writing in, Bill. This really is a hot topic among lay shooters and personal defense experts alike. The reason for so much of the debate is that there’s not a simple, black-and-white answer. Most notably, perhaps, Massad Ayoob has argued in Deadly Force: Understanding Your Right to Self Defense that reloading for self defense is a serious mistake. Ayoob argues that standard forensic testing after a shooting relies on powder residue from factory loads, and since handloads throw off this data, it could potentially allow prosecuting attorneys to vilify defensive shooters. Another concern, according to Ayoob, is that attorneys could somehow prove malicious intent by the mere act of reloading, as if it were some kind of premeditated form of bloodlust. As an expert witness and authority on legal matters relating to self defense, Ayoob’s argument has serious weight. For that reason, many folks opt for factory ammo when it comes to their carry gun.
On the flip side, many reloaders are more comfortable defending themselves with ammunition that’s been personally inspected and loaded to their level of personal satisfaction. They carry confident with ammo they’ve honed to perfection. Like you said, Bill, if reloading gives you the best all around load, why not go that route? At least that’s one side of the argument. As always, it’s paramount that you do your homework, know the laws in your state and make a decision that’s best for you and your loved ones.—Eds.
Ruger’s excellent Bisley Hunter in .44 Magnum is a dedicated hunting revolver, offering excellent accuracy and reliability. Do you think you need more?
The .44 Magnum is one hard-hitting round, but there’s a time when serious handgun hunters turn toward more powerful calibers.
The .44 Magnum is a serious handgun round and the second revolver cartridge to bear the name “Magnum” on its head stamp. The .44 Remington Magnum made the scene in 1956, while Ruger and Smith & Wesson vied for the distinction of being the first to hit the market with the new high-powered cartridge with the introduction of the Ruger Super Blackhawk and the S&W Model 29. Smith & Wesson was first to market and, ironically, it was a little-known manufacturer, Great Western Arms Co., that also beat Ruger to market with a .44 Mag.
The .44s hit the shelves at gun shops nationwide, and the world hasn’t been the same since. But the big shot in the arm for the .44 Mag. from a standpoint of popularity was the 1971 film “Dirty Harry,” starring Clint Eastwood, the tough San Francisco detective who carried a Model 29 in a shoulder holster.
Actual diameter for the .44 Mag. is .429-inches, but it’s hard to imagine how popular a “.429 Magnum” would have been comparatively. This really is the quintessential big-bore round and what I consider a threshold cartridge, meaning that it is the upper limit for all but the most hardened handgunners and still needs to be approached with caution by true neophytes.
The .44 Mag. put handgun hunting on the map as a feasible endeavor, and it remained at the top position of power until 1983 when it fell victim to the game of one-upmanship with the release of Dick Casull’s wonder cartridge, the .454 Casull. It was a move the powers that be at Smith & Wesson never forgot—S&W returned the favor a couple of decades later when it released its .500 S&W Magnum. We are a consumer society after all, and it doesn’t take much to convince us we need something bigger, better, faster or more powerful.
The .44 Magnum is popular for many reasons, including the fact that a wide range of factory ammunition is available for many different applications.
Still considered the classic big-bore revolver cartridge, the .44 Mag. to this day enjoys a strong following among big bore revolver lovers. There is no big-bore round that can claim the variety of available ammunition on the market with loads from mild to wild. If you do not reload, this is the cartridge for you; every possible load is available commercially, for virtually any and every application imaginable. The .44 Magnum is the gold standard by which all big revolver cartridges are measured.
So when do you actually need something bigger? The answer isn’t so simple, but I’ll say it anyway: never, actually. Before you proclaim me a blasphemer, let me qualify my statement with this: The .44 Rem. Mag., properly loaded (this caveat applies to any and every cartridge), can, will and has unequivocally taken virtually every game animal that walks the face of this planet. Here’s where I weasel my way out: In my experience, however, there are better choices for really large game, and they begin at .45 and go up from there. Will the .44 Mag. work on really big game? Yes. Are there better choices? Yes.
The .44 Mag. is a great deer cartridge, and while it will comfortably take much larger game, I prefer moving up in diameter when the game weight goes up. Bigger is better, as long as the shooter is capable of competently shooting the bigger calibers. With the move up comes a sizable increase in recoil. That said, the larger calibers do not need to be firewalled to be effective as a step up from the terminal performance offered by the .44 Mag. I can’t argue with larger diameter and heavier bullets.
Revolvers will never be able to boast the high velocity figures of even the mildest rifle cartridges, so they must rely on bullet diameter, weight and the nose profile of the bullet. For thin-skinned game I like expanding bullets, but at the subdued velocities of handguns, reliable expansion is elusive. And again, when starting out over .40 caliber, there really is no need for expansion.
The .44 Remington Magnum (left) is literally dwarfed by the .500 Linebaugh. The .500 Linebaugh offers a considerable step up in terminal performance, as well as recoil, which may not be to your liking.
Instead, I prefer flat-nosed bullets (with a properly sized meplat) designed to penetrate deeply, particularly on larger game where penetration is your best friend. By default these bullets will make a large hole as they are starting out at a large diameter (relatively speaking). In my experience, two holes are better than one, since two holes tend to bleed more, so I really put a premium on penetration.
The first step north of the .44 Mag. is with the various .45 caliber rounds. The .45s come in a number of flavors, starting with the old warhorse and former black powder cartridge, the .45 Colt. Before you start thinking about the anemic cowboy action loads that are available for this chambering, consider that the .45 Colt in a decisively stronger Ruger revolver can be loaded considerably hotter. This isn’t your granddad’s .45. Most .45 Colt ammo that is available commercially is held to a SAAMI max pressure of 14,000 psi because there are many older revolvers (think Single Action Army) out there that cannot withstand much higher pressures.
Next up is the .454 Casull, a potent, 65,000 psi (SAAMI maximum pressure) brute of a round. The .460 S&W Mag. eclipses both of the lesser .45s with a full 1.8-inch case capable of pretty impressive velocities. The price paid for choosing the .460 is the platform necessarily big enough to house the big cartridge.
The .480 Ruger and its big brother, the .475 Linebaugh, are up next. The .475 Linebaugh, available in Magnum Research’s BFR revolver and Freedom Arms’ Model 83, is a serious cartridge for serious handgun hunters. Loaded to spec, the recoil is fierce, but the .475 is a very capable big-game getter. The smaller .480 Ruger (1.28-inch case length versus the .475’s 1.4-inch case) is the “Goldilocks cartridge” if there ever was one—just right. Loaded up, it will nip at the heals of the .475 Linebaugh, but it doesn’t need to be run that hard to work decisively on big game. It will throw heavy bullets at moderate velocities without beating the tar out of the shooter. The .480 is one of my favorites and has accounted for piles of game.
The half-inchers are next. These are very serious hunting cartridges. First up is the .500 JRH, the brainchild of gunsmith Jack Huntington (Jrhadvancedgunsmithing.com), essentially a cut-down .500 S&W (from 1.6 to 1.4 inches), offered in Magnum Research’s BFR (from their Precision Center). A ballistic twin to the .500 JRH is available from Freedom Arms called the .500 Wyoming Express (WE). The .500 Linebaugh (actual .511 diameter), while not available in a production revolver, enjoys quite a bit of popularity with handgun hunters and is a custom proposition only. Commercial ammunition is available from a number of sources.
The .50 calibers are in a class by themselves. Magnum Research’s Precision Center can build you a revolver in .500 JRH that offers first class terminal performance.
The big dog on the block is the .500 S&W Mag. Like its stable mate, the .460 S&W, the size necessitates a large platform to contain the big, raucous cartridge. All of these are capable of truly debilitating recoil if loaded up to spec. However, as I mentioned before, none of these cartridges needs to be loaded hot to offer a sizable increase in terminal performance over the .44 Mag.
If you are recoil sensitive, the .44 Mag. may be your limit, but the .45 Colt can be loaded to similar levels of recoil and makes a bigger hole. It is also capable of propelling heavier bullets than the .44. This is something to consider, but the .480 Ruger just might be the most logical choice in that it offers a considerable step up from the .44 Mag. terminally without earth-shattering recoil levels.
So when do you really need more than the .44 Mag? That is up to you and your abilities. You need to be honest with yourself and determine how much abuse you are willing and able to withstand. I know it may sound like I am sensationalizing recoil, but in all seriousness, very few people can shoot the .44 Mag. well.
These big revolvers require a lot of practice to master and are frankly not for everyone. If the .44 Mag. is your limit, there is no reason to fret. If you can handle it, and you intend to hunt large game, by all means step up. You will be well served. While the ubiquitous .44 Mag. is fully capable of most tasks asked of it, moving up in diameter is a good idea when elk, moose or pachyderm are on the menu. Ultimately, only you can determine if you really need more.
This article appeared in the June 2015 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
In business for a half century now, the Dam Road Gun Shop has a wide and varied client base, from hunters and target shooters, to a growing cadre of concealed carry permit holders. Shooters in that later group, says store owner Mike Palenske, are buying up the Ruger LCR, especially those in .38 Spl. and .22 Mag.
The new single-stack Glock 43, in 9mm, is moving briskly, too, at $495.
“As soon as they come in they are sold,” Palenske said. “We have a waiting list of at least 15 people who want one, so when the pistols comes in, we make some phone calls—Glock’s are gone!”
Dam Road sees a good deal of interest in tactical bolt actions chambered in .308 Win, including various heavy-barreled models in the Remington 700 line. Another good selling bolt action here is the CZ 527 chambered in 7.62x39mm. The rifle comes with a good quality walnut stock and a scope, for $695.
“The ammo for that rifle is still fairly inexpensive, and there’s a lot of it around, making that rifle an even better value for our customers,” Polanski said.
As the many financial problems of Colt Manufacturing have begun circulating in the gun world, Palenske says the prices of Colt 1911 pistols have surged, in some cases doubling. Recently, Polanski sold two of Colt’s commemorative Marine Corps Bi-Centennial 1911’s for $1,995 each, and thinks he could sell many more if he could get them in store.
Editor's Note: This brief originally appeared in the July 2015 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Imagine your Ruger 10/22 decked out with Hogue’s new OverMolded Tactical Thumbhole stock.
Hogue has a new stock for one of America's most iconic rimfire rifles. And it looks like it’s ready to get shooters knocking out the X ring. Imagine your Ruger 10/22 decked out with a Hogue OverMolded Tactical Thumbhole stock. Improved ergonomics and looks that inspire confidence.
Talk about configurable firearms and one type typically springs to mind — the AR.
The carbine’s modular design has attracted its fair share of shooters with a yen for customization. The venerable semiautomatic, however, is far from the only firearm engineered to be quickly and easily modified.
The Ruger 10/22 also has chops when it comes to the ease of alteration. And there is a slew of goodies available to really get the iconic rimfire rocking — from match triggers to threaded barrels ready for suppression.
Recently, Hogue tackled another aspect of the 10/22 and has come up with an upgrade that should send precision plinkers’ collective hearts soaring. That is because the Nevada manufacturer’s newest OverMolded rifle stock looks to have everything to get shooters on target.
Like its name suggests, the Tactical Thumbhole 10/22 stock has a primary defining attribute — its thumbhole. The feature is just the ticket to get a more solid handle on the rifle, along with making it more functional in the field.
The OverMolded Tactical Thumbhole stock’s pistol grip has been angled to give shooters a more natural hold, thus wielding more control over the rifle. It also allows for the buttstock to be firmly nestled into the shoulder, in turn adding more stability to a shot and permitting longer holds on a target.
The forend has also been crafted to aid with accuracy with a wider and curvaceous design. These features are meant to enhance the rifle’s stability when used in conjunction with a bipod or on a rest.
The buttstock has a raised comb, allowing for a firm cheek weld when the rifle is shouldered. This should step up a shooter's ability to acquire targets posthaste, not to mention accommodate a slew of different scopes and optics.
The OverMolded Tactical Thumbhole stock is mainly designed for heavy-barreled (.92-inch diameter) 10/22s. The stock, however, can accommodate standard contour barrels. The stock is available in six colors: black, OD green, flat dark earth, Ghillie green, Ghillie earth or purple. The stock is also available for the 10/22 takedown model.
The black model has an MSRP around $110, while the colored models are available for around $130.
Firefield’s new laser light combo that looks to light up carry pistols. Photo Firefield
An advancement—a quite unheralded one at that—over the past decade or so is the size of firearm accessories.
Each year shooters are able to slap on lights, sights or what have you that are more compact and easier to manipulate than ever. Really, you don’t have to reach too far back in firearms history to discover how much more convenient accessories have become.
One of Firefield’s newest aiming solutions is a perfect example of these advancements. The Texas-based company’s Compact Pistol Laser Light Combo adds next to nothing to a firearm in the size and weight department; yet it gives shooters what appears to be a ton of functionality.
Concerning its dimensions, the unit measures in at 1.9×1.5×1.8 inches. As for weight, the laser light combo tips the scales at 2.6 ounces. Overall, that’s not a ton to tack onto a carry piece.
The unit is outfitted with a 180 lumen LED flashlight that has a range easily outstripping the practical function of nearly any pistol on which it will be attached. As far as the sight, the accessory has a 5MW green laser, which is visible at 50 yards in daylight and is fully adjustable for both windage and elevation.
The company opting for a green laser should make the sight a solid performer in low light. There are many who note the color is more visible in a dusky environment.
The Firefield Compact Pistol Laser Light Combo is designed to accommodate both right- and left-handed shooters. Facilitating this is an ambidextrous digital switch that controls both of the device’s functions. The laser-light combo is powered off one 3V CR2 battery, which has respectable life in the unit. The battery will juice up the laser for 9 hours of continual use, the light for 2 hours, and both function simultaneously for 1.5 hours.
The unit has a black composite body that is rated IPX4, which means it will remain functional, even if it is splashed with water. And it is compatible with Weaver-style mounts.
The Firefield Compact Pistol Laser Light Combo also appears to be a fairly affordable accessory. Presently, the company has it listed for $119.99 on its website.
Everything that the .30-06 Springfield has been to the North American continent, the .375 H&H is and will continue to be for the African continent. Author Photo
The .375 H&H Magnum is by far one of the most versatile cartridges ever developed.
Today’s bullets make the venerable .375 better than it has ever been. Some great bullet options range from 250-300 grains and are available from Federal, Swift, Barnes and others. Author photo.
“We’re all out of cover, Phil. You either take him from here or pass. How well do you know that rifle?”
The half-mile leopard crawl, which resulted in bloody knees and elbows, had come to its end. I looked through the binoculars at the herd of eland, and I could clearly see the biggest of three bulls at the right side of the herd. I was lying prone among the cactus and thorns, leaning my shoulder against a rock-hard termite mound that dotted the plain of the Orange Free State of South Africa. The eland were easy enough to see; the problem was the expanse of wide-open ground between us.
“I’d put them at 400, no?”
“Unfortunately, I agree.”
The rifle couldn’t have been rested any steadier. The forend of the Winchester Model 70 was nestled in an impromptu bundle formed from my safari jacket, and when I settled into the rifle, I was wedged against the termite mound. I turned the scope all the way up, adjusted the hold for drop at 400 yards and gave another adjustment for wind. When the smooth squeeze of the trigger turned into that familiar, violent explosion, it wasn’t long before I heard the sweet sound of bullet hitting bone. The eland took the 300-grain Swift A-Frame right on the point of the shoulder, and with one coup de grace, he was in the salt. That Model 70 was chambered in .375 H&H Magnum, a safari classic.
The .375 Holland & Holland Belted Magnum was released in 1912, and it was classified as a “medium bore,” whereas with the bullets and powders of today, I’d lean toward calling it a “big bore.” The initial loadings used a 235-grain bullet at 2,800 fps, a 270-grain bullet at 2,650 fps and a 300-grain bullet at 2,500 fps. While the velocities haven’t changed radically, the bullet weights and construction sure have.
The .375 H&H made quite the reputation early on, and with good reason. The lighter 235-grain bullets made a good long-range choice, especially for lighter game, and as optics in the early part of 20th century weren’t popular, that load shot plenty flat enough for any hunter. The 235s didn’t have the best sectional density, but they worked fine for the smaller antelope and deer species. The early cup-and-core 270-grain bullets handled the larger antelope—like eland, kudu and sable—without destroying too much meat.
The beauty of the .375 H&H, especially in the huge, mixed bag safaris, was that the 300-grain softpoints and solids would just as handily dispatch lion and buffalo as they would the enormous elephant. The penetration of these bullets was unparalleled, and while they lacked the energy figures and the frontal diameter of the big .450s, they were much easier for the visiting sportsman to shoot effectively. The flexibility of the loads made a great choice for the one-gun world traveler. Alaska’s biggest bears are easily handled by the .375 H&H, as was (in the day) the giant gaur of India and even the tiger.
Several of the more prominent hunters have embraced the .375 H&H as their preferred tool—Harry Manners and Wally Johnson come quickly to mind, and Finn Aagaard came to rely on a Winchester 70 in .375 during his days in Kenya. In my own experience, PH Terry Calavrias guided me in the Selous Reserve of Tanzania, and he too carried a Winchester 70 in .375 H&H, without a worry in the world.
Why? What makes it such a logical choice, when there are so many cartridges that have come and gone in the last 103 years? Surely there are better cartridges available, right?
Well, that’s a rather subjective question, but I feel comfortable saying this: Everything that the .30-06 Springfield has been to the North American continent, the .375 H&H is and will continue to be for the African continent. Let’s take a closer look at the ballistic performance and benefits of the most famous African cartridge.
The .375 was one of the first cases to wear what would become the hallmark of magnum cases: that little belt of brass. Many people believe that the belt enhances the strength of case, but that isn’t its purpose. Holland & Holland designed that belted case to give positive headspacing in a case that had a very small shoulder (as the rimmed cases do), without the feeding problems associated with rimmed cartridges in a bolt-action rifle magazine. With a case that headspaces off the belt at the rear, the shoulder angle is virtually inconsequential, so the .375 H&H is designed to feed very smoothly—an invaluable asset when pursuing dangerous game.
The 300-grain, .375-inch diameter bullet has an SD of .305, making it a sound choice for dangerous game work (an SD figure of .300 or higher is generally accepted as a good weight for the largest mammals). The .375 pushes these bullets to 2,500-2,600 fps, depending on your rifle and the ammunition manufacturer, but that velocity gives a fantastic balance of deep penetration, as well as that shooter-friendly recoil level that the .375 H&H is famous for.
The ability to place a bullet in the right spot is invaluable, and many PHs prefer a client that shoots a .375 H&H to one who is uncomfortable with a .416 or .458 caliber rifle. My wife, Suzie, at 5 foot 3 inches, shoots her .375 H&H very well, and has no problem hunting with her Winchester.
Today’s bullets make the venerable cartridge better than it has ever been. If the cup-and-core bullets of the early 20th century helped the .375 gain that reputation, the bonded-core and mono-metal bullets of today will guarantee that it sees another century of duty.
There are some “middle ground” 250-grain bullets, like the Sierra Game King boat-tail spitzer, and the 260-grain Nosler AccuBond, as well as some heavyweight choices like the 350-grain Barnes TSX and a pair of Woodleigh softpoint and solid bullets in 350 grains.
In 300-grain choices, the North Fork bonded semi-spitzer will ruin a buffalo’s day, and the North Fork 300-grain flat point will cleanly handle any elephant walking today. The 300-grain Nosler Partition and its bonded-core cousin, the Swift A-Frame, make a good choice for an all-around load in the H&H case. The .375 H&H comes in a rifle that is affordable when compared to the double rifles, and most manufacturers have chambered for it at one time or another.
I’ve used the .375 H&H to take smaller antelope in Africa, like the steenbok, springbok and impala, as well as warthog and eland. I’ve also used it to take a huge-bodied bison on the Great Plains and for caribou in the Tioga of Quebec. It makes a great choice for bear of any color or species. I can honestly say that I’ve never lost an animal that I pointed my .375 H&H at, and I’m not done hunting with it by any stretch of the imagination.
This article appeared in the June 2015 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Bill Ruger designed the Skeeter Skelton Special pair of sixguns to commemorate Skeeter’s career as one of the country’s most highly respected gun writers.
From sixguns to bolt-guns, you can't go wrong by starting a Ruger collection. Here are some tips for getting started.
I have enjoyed collecting guns and specifically Rugers for many years. During that time I have learned several good lessons. Some of those have been quite costly, but those are the ones that really stick in your mind never to repeat again. I think of it as paying for my education.
I have listed some general pointers for the beginning collector to consider that I think will help in building a good quality collection. They are certainly not all inclusive but hopefully will be of some help.
There is nothing wrong with accumulating guns—all types of guns. We have all been there. Myself, I love guns, period! If that is what you enjoy, that is fine, but if you want to become a true collector of a certain gun or guns, I believe it requires focus. In Ruger collecting, it does not matter what you decide to collect or how you approach it, but I suggest you have a plan.
The Initial Plan
An example of a plan would be that you decide you want to collect one example of each major type of the Ruger early autos and old model revolvers. Your plan would lay out and list what that would include: Standard Autos and Target models, Red Eagle and Black Eagle grips, different barrel lengths. Next: the Single-six Revolvers, flat loading gates and round loading gates, black rubber and walnut grips, different barrel lengths. Then the Blackhawk .357 Revolvers, etc. If you have limited funds, figure that into your plan. You do not want to mortgage the farm, or at least not all of it! Then you go about your search. Try not to sway too much. Instill discipline in yourself, and try to stay on your plan. This is usually very hard for us gun lovers.
Plan Two
Once you have fulfilled the above or are nearly there, you need to decide what is next. How do you expand? For example, you may decide that you really like a particular series of gun, let’s say the Single-Sixes. You want to expand that particular part of your collection and really get into the different variations of these guns. You should then focus on that area. First, find out all you can about the Single-Sixes—read, read, read! Ask fellow collectors, look at gun displays at gun shows, if available, etc. Then list all the guns that would make up a complete collection of the different variations of those guns. An example is that there are four major variations of the flat loading gate or “flatgate” guns. Then begin the hunt. Again, you may have limited funds, so figure that into your plan.
Books, Magazine Articles
The Ruger 10/22 autoloader has become the benchmark against which other rimfire semiautomatic rifles are compared.
You just cannot read too much about the guns you decide to collect! Most of the authors are true collectors themselves and are sharing their many hours of hands-on research, knowledge, and experience. Use this to your advantage. There are several good books on Ruger collecting. While some are out of print, they can still be found, and their cost will pay for themselves many times over.
Listen and Learn
Try to get to know fellow collectors who are interested in Rugers and especially the same type of Rugers that you are. You will find most of them willing and even eager to share their knowledge and experience. Be humble, ask questions, do not be embarrassed, everyone has to learn. At the same time do not be a “pest.” Remember, you cannot learn everything from them overnight, so use good judgment and taste when having discussions with them. Recall also that much of your knowledge needs to be hands-on experience. I have many collector friends who have taught me so much, and they are still teaching me today.
Join a Collector’s Association
This is a good way to meet people with the same common interests. You learn contacts and often find some good guns for your collection. The Ruger Collectors’ Association and Red Eagle News Exchange are two good Ruger information sources.
The Ruger Collectors’ Association is the oldest organization for the Ruger collector or enthusiast. Membership includes the Association’s sporadically produced newsletter and invitation to members-only events. For more information (or to apply for a $30.00 annual membership), write to: Ruger Collectors’ Association, Inc., P.O. Box 240, Greens Farms, CT 06436, or go online to www.rugercollectorsassociation.com.
The Red Eagle News Exchange is a quarterly publication filled with new information, updates, and articles about collecting Ruger firearms and memorabilia. This is an excellent resource for the Ruger collector or enthusiast, and the wealth of information sent to new subscribers as a free gift with a $25.00 paid annual subscription is alone well worth the money. Highly recommended. For more information or to subscribe, write Red Eagle News Exchange (Chad Hiddleson – Editor), 1945 Clover Avenue, Perry, IA 50220, or call (515) 465-2057. Or go to the Ruger Forum online: www.rugerforum.com.
Display Your Guns
The Ruger Collectors Association has two major annual theme shows. Many gun show promoters all over the country have “display tables” available at reduced table rates. I suggest you show your guns off. You do not have to wait until you have the perfect collection. You may meet someone from the general public that sees your display and happens to have a real good gun for your collection. You do not always get them, but it has happened more than once for me.
Sources
I have found some of the best sources for good collectible guns to be gun shows, local newspaper, gun publications, estate sales and actions. The Internet adds another broad dimension. Fellow collections are a valuable source to obtain leads for those special guns.
Now for some additional pointers about the guns themselves.
Condition
I really believe that you are better in the long run to spend more money up front to obtain top-condition guns for your collection than the less expensive junker stuff. In future trading or selling this will pay off immensely. Of course, that is not to say that in order to fill a particular rare open slot in an almost complete collection that I would not buy a lesser condition, very hard to find gun and then try to upgrade.
Originality
I am a purist when it comes to the guns for my collection. Factory original is a must—I have found that non-original guns normally do not enhance your collection. This is where your study and reading really pays off. You will know what is original and what is not.
Guns, Guns, Guns
Nothing helps you determine the originality and spot rare variations like looking at and handling actual guns. The more the better. The more you examine, the more familiar you become with what a “right” gun is and what it should look like.
Examination
Rugers have appeared on the covers of many editions of the Gun Digest annual, including the 2016 edition.
Take your time when examining a gun that will go into your collection. Look at it very closely, study every feature. Sometimes this is one of the hardest things to do—excitement over finding that rare gun takes over and blinds you to true condition and problems you should have noticed before you get it home. Everyone will experience this no matter how hard you try. Do not dismay; you are paying for your education. Learn from these mistakes.
Checklist
One way that I try to ensure I give the gun a thorough examination before purchase is to have my mental check list ready. Examples are:
Has the gun been refinished? Look for signs of blue in previous rust pits, sharp edges buffed away, lettering not sharp, waves from excess buffing, etc. Look at the color of the bluing. Scratches, scuffs, dings—notice them !
Screw heads buggered—has the gun been messed with?
Are the grips right? Are the medallions right for the period of the gun? Is the grip finish correct?
Is the Barrel length correct? Is the barrel address correct for the period of manufacture of the gun, front sight correct, rear sight correct? Is the ejector rod button correct, ejector rod housing aluminum or steel – which is correct?
Safety kit installed in old model guns? If so, are the original parts with the gun? Old model guns without the original parts lose a considerable part of their collector appeal and value.
Boxes. The original box and paper work add desirability and value to any gun, especially a collectible gun. Always ask if the box is with the gun. Sometimes the box may be “under the table” or not visible with the gun. Unless you ask, it may not be furnished with the gun. Older Ruger boxes often bring a good price—some of the rare ones a hefty price—so it is added gravy for the seller if you overlook the box; he will sell it to another collector.
Box Configuration. Again, this is where your study and observation will pay off. Is the box right for the gun? Is the instruction manual included, and is it correct? Warranty card right? Ruger boxes and shipping cartons, if applicable, are numbered to the original gun. Lead pencils and grease pencils were used to number the older boxes on the ends and sides of the boxes before computerized end labels on the later “new models.”
Buyer Beware. On the rare and especially more expensive guns always inquire about the existence of a validating “factory letter.” There are unscrupulous dealers and individuals who will tell you anything to make a sale. Again, this is where your study and education can really pay off. You can spot what is not right about a particular gun. Be wary but not so cautious that you never take that chance to get a rare gun. Sometimes you have to listen to your gut and just jump in or you will miss a good gun.
Unscrupulous Dealers and Individuals. Again, where there is money to be made, there are cheats and crooks—just a way of life! Look for dealers and individuals with good reputations. Keep your ears open regarding others who got “burned or ripped off.” There are many good deals to be found, but as my wise old grandma used to say, “Sonny boy, if it looks too good to be true, it usually ain’t true”!
This article first appeared on the website www.gunblast.com and is reprinted with permission.
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 excellent concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
