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New Rifle: Phoenix Weaponry’s 45-70 Auto AR

February 6, 2018

Shooting a modified version of the powerful and classic straight-walled cartridge, Phoenix Weaponry’s 45-70 Auto Christine rifle can tangle with nearly any game on earth.

How did Phoenix Weaponry take the .45-70 Government and make it the semi-auto-compatible 45-70 Auto?

Phoenix rebated the .45-70 Government’s rim to make it function in the rifle.
The modification allowed the use of standard .308 AR-10 parts.
The rifle boasts a Douglas barrel with a 1:14 twist rate, perfect for heavier bullets.
The 45-70 Auto Christine has Phoenix’s custom trigger, set to 3 pounds.
Cost is prohibitive for many shooters, with a price of $4,800.

The .45-70 Government conjures up thoughts of a bygone era of boundless buffalo herds and the equally limitless American frontier. And, against odds, the powerful straight-walled cartridge continues to elude becoming a footnote in history books as some novel relic of yesteryear. It is still alive and well today, a favorite of shooters who prefer slower, heavier rounds that can handle nearly anything that treads upon hoof, paw or foot.

45-70-auto-first — Photo: Phoenix Weaponry

There are plenty of modern-day rifles chambered for the .45-70, from classically inspired single shots to the most up-to-date lever actions. But if Phoenix Weaponry has its way, shooters will look at the more than century-old cartridge in an entirely different light from here on out. That’s because the Colorado-based AR manufacturer has its sights set on reinventing the large-bore round as fodder for a semi-automatic rifle.

In one of the more unique moves in the AR market in recent years, Phoenix Weaponry has introduced an AR-10-style rifle chambered for the classic round (or at least a version of it) — the 45-70 Auto. Also lovingly known as Christine, the rifle represents perhaps one of the greatest leaps for the cartridge since it transitioned to smokeless powder. Although, getting the good old Government up to speed for a modern rifle platform did take some doing — not to mention a smidgen of ingenuity.

The obvious hurdle to cross was the .45-70’s rimmed case. While not impossible, it would take some intensive re-engineering to modify an existing semi-automatic to reliably chew through this style of cartridge — from bolt to magazine and what have you. Phoenix opted for the easier option, and instead of tinkering the rifle around the cartridge, it re-designed the brass to the gun.

What they came up with is elegant in its simplicity. The company merely rebated the rim, essentially making the cartridge rimless, thus highly compatible with the AR-10 platform. The results were right on the money, with the modified .45-70 cartridge so in tune to the rifle Phoenix was able to utilize it’s everyday .308 Win. bolt head, carrier and receivers.

45-70 auto -second — Photo: Phoenix Weaponry

And the company didn’t have to sacrifice any of the cartridge’s performance shoehorning it into an AR-10. Phoenix claims the rebated case is reloadable with existing .45-70 data — based on Ruger No. 1 loads — and standard dies. The only thing that changes in the process is the shell holder. One compatible with a .308 is required.

Ammo, as expected in a specialty set up such as the .45-70 Auto, is a concern. Your local shooting supplies store isn’t going to be brimming with .45-70 with rebated rims anytime soon. Phoenix foresaw this issue and includes 50 introductory cases with a new rifle and the option to buy more factory-modified brass straight from the company. But Phoenix hasn’t turned its back on dyed-in-the-wool D.I.Y. folks — at least ones with lathes. Cutters are available from the company. So motivated shooters with access to a machine shop can turn off-the-shelf .45-70 Government brass on their own.

The 45-70 Auto itself appears stoutly built, constructed around Phoenix’s RFL upper and lower receivers, originally designed for the company’s .308 builds. The company turned to Douglas Barrels out of West Virginia for the chrome-moly number on the 45-70 Auto. It is attached with custom bushings, is 18 inches in length and is a custom profile — very much bull. The barrel is button rifled with a 1:14 twist, which is quite fast for the caliber and opens heavier bullet options to shooters. The barrel is topped off with Phoenix’s Chevron muzzle brake, designed to keep the line of sight free and clear shot to shot.

Christine utilizes a rifle-length gas system with a low-profile adjustable gas block. It is outfitted with Phoenix’s 15-inch, free-floating modular aluminum handguard that features in-house manufactured Picatinny rail sections for the quick addition of QD sling mounts, and what have you. And it boasts the company’s custom trigger, tuned to a crisp 3 pounds.

Finally, the 45-70 has a Magpul adjustable ACS stock and MOE pistol grip. And the nearly 10-pound rifle is Cerakoted in Flat Dark Earth and comes with a 10-round Magpul magazine, modified to hold six rounds.

45-70 auto -third — Photo: Phoenix Weaponry

There is a rub to getting a 45-70 Auto in a gun safe, however — price. An AR unique as this doesn’t come cheap; Phoenix has a hefty $4,800 basement on the behemoth and will customize as far as a shooter’s wallet can handle. It’s definitely not an ‘Everyman’s’ rifle, nor does it appear Phoenix intended it to be.

Like all special ladies, Christine is one of a kind. She’ll most likely attract shooters as unique as her. And they could be well served with the investment. Up to and including dangerous game, there’s little on God’s green earth she can’t handle.

How To: Safe Re-Holstering Tips

Massad Ayoob

February 6, 2018

Procedural tactics regarding the safe holstering of a handgun have changed dramatically over the years. Here are some things to know.

Shooters should of course keep their fingers off the trigger when holstering.
Another trick is to place the thumb on the hammer of hammer-fired guns.
If the hammer is up on a 1911-style pistol, it prevents it from falling.
If it is down on a double-action pistol, it prevents it from rising and then falling.
The author suggests looking the gun into the holster at the learning stage.
Later, a more experienced shooter should be able to holster without looking.

There have been some new trends in the past few years on safe holstering doctrine.

In the old days, when holsters left triggers and trigger guards exposed and it was the custom to put one’s finger on the trigger as soon as the hand hit the holstered gun, any snag in the draw could result in the practitioner shooting himself, usually in the leg. Eventually, the gun world learned to demand holsters that covered the trigger guard area to prevent that. The change was good as far as it went, but in a sense it simply redistributed the nature of the negligent discharge. Now what happened was, when the finger was carelessly left on the trigger, the gun went back into the holster and the trigger finger stopped on the edge, and the gun kept moving and – BANG! A self-inflicted gunshot wound remarkably like the one from the old holster days.

The mantra of “keep your booger hooker off the bang switch” turned out not to be enough. I’ve seen cops who kept their belt-mounted key ring in front of the holster where, with movement or even previous strenuous activity, a key could wind up on the edge of the holster in line with the incoming trigger during holstering. There was one famous case of an old, soft leather holster bending enough that when a man inserted his Glock into it, the fold of leather hit the center of the trigger and the pistol discharged.

One of the biggest offenders is the drawstring found on warm-up jackets, hoodies, some winter coats and similar garments. We are seeing those get fouled between trigger guard and holster every year! DRAWSTRINGS ARE INCOMPATIBLE WITH HOLSTERED GUNS AND UNSAFE TO WEAR WITH THEM! IF YOU CARRY A GUN, REMOVE THE DRAWSTRINGS!

It only makes sense when we are dealing with deadly weapons to put safety net after safety net in place. One that I learned early was THUMB ON HAMMER WHEN HOLSTERING. If something trips the trigger, the thumb on the hammer of a cocked 1911 or similar pistol holds that hammer back, and prevents it from firing the shot. If the hammer is down on a double-action weapon, the thumb holds it down, so it cannot rise and fall and crack off a shot. Even with an unmodified striker-fired pistol, the thumb holds the slide forward so a tight-fitting holster can’t push it out of battery, and guarantees that when the gun comes out, it is ready to fight for you.

During this same process, the trigger finger should be straight. The index finger is known colloquially as the “pointer finger,” and this helps get the gun smoothly into the holster. It also, of course, guarantees that the finger wasn’t left on the trigger during the holstering process.

As I said, I’ve been practicing and teaching this since the 1970s, and published it in 1984 in my book StressFire. No one who has followed this protocol has shot himself yet. Enough said.

Latest Re-Holstering Doctrine
Because some people have shot themselves holstering, a new mantra has emerged: Look the gun into the holster, so you can see what you are doing. Another mantra is, “You never need to holster quickly, just to draw quickly. ALWAYS holster slowly and carefully.”

By and large, that’s good advice…but “always” can be a bigger word than it looks. We need to talk.

Full time police work only 40 hours a week not counting overtime, and there are 168 hours in a week, so every cop is off duty more than he or she is on. (As a part time cop for 43 years, I was off duty even more.) Off duty cops, or plainclothes officers, or armed citizens when they’ve had to pull a gun on the street against criminals, will be unidentifiable as Good Guys and Gals when the uniformed cops pull up. Those cops have been told “Person with a gun, there now.” The Good Guy or Gal is “Person with a gun, there now”! It behooves them to get that gun put out of sight quickly and smoothly, without taking their eyes off the person present who was so dangerous they had to pull a gun on him in the first place.

If the Bad Guy goes for a gun at that moment and you are “looking your gun into your holster,” the gun and holster may be the last thing you see before your world goes dark forever. And that doesn’t take into account the situation many cops have faced: they have the bad guy at gunpoint, the bad guy gets physical, and they decide not to shoot him but need both hands to restrain him. That gun has to be put away swiftly and surely and rather quickly, without taking the eyes off the threat.

So…this writer suggests that you look the gun into the holster ALWAYS in the learning stages, because the eyes tell the hands what to feel, and that’s the shortcut to being able to do it by feel. Don’t do it fast so much as you do it smooth, and when the proverbial “need for speed” comes, you’ll more likely be able to do it quickly by feel, even in total darkness. You DO want to be able to holster one-handed by feel. It’s an important tactical skill.

More Tips For Safe Re-holster
My colleague and friend, master instructor David Maglio, popularized the technique of clicking one’s heels together when holstering at the hip. It keeps the gun side leg out of line of the muzzle.

I like to step forward with my holster-side leg, or back with the off-side leg, for the same reason when I holster.

When holstering on the front of the body (i.e., AIWB), cantilever the upper body back at the hips, so the muzzle will at least point forward past genitalia and femoral arteries.

Editor’s Note: This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest Book of Concealed Carry, Volume 2: Beyond the Basics.

First Look: Colt Night Cobra Revolver

Drew Warden

February 5, 2018

Colt is continuing its expansion into revolvers, bringing out the upgraded Night Cobra for 2018.

What you should know about the new Colt Night Cobra revolver:

It is an upgraded version of last year’s Cobra tailored for concealed carry.
The Night Cobra has a bobbed double-action-only (DAO) hammer.
The revolver features a matte black DLC coating for corrosion resistance and durability.
It features a Tritium front night sight for shooting in low light and new VZ G10 grips.
Its MSRP is stated as $899, $200 more than the standard Cobra.

Last year Colt revived its double-action revolver line with the introduction of its Cobra, a six-shot revolver chambered in .38 Special. At this year’s SHOT Show, Colt has given revolver fans even more reason to be happy by debuting the Night Cobra, which features a few upgrades designed to make the revolver even more suited for concealed carry.

Bone Up On Legendary Colt Firearms

Namely, the new Night Cobra has a stainless steel construction with a matte black DLC coating, a new set of VZ G10 grips, a front night sight and a bobbed double-action-only (DAO) hammer. And the Night Cobra is built to handle the hotter +P defensive loads that some prefer for protection.

I had a chance to shoot the new Colt Night Cobra at the 2018 Industry Day at the Range a day before SHOT Show, and I came away mostly impressed, which makes sense seeing as I found the standard Cobra pleasant to shoot last year before it was released. Obviously, the Night Cobra is a DAO affair given the lack of hammer spur, so I was limited to the double-action pull, which, with regard to concealed carry, is not necessarily a bad thing. Double-action revolvers are among the safest firearms to carry, and because the Night Cobra has the bobbed hammer, it is pretty unlikely to snag on clothing on the draw.

I also found the Tritium front night sight to be quite serviceable. Of course, a night sight on a gun designed for carry, and which may be employed in low light, is always an appreciated feature. For those who prefer a different sight, however, it looks like the front sight is also interchangeable and can be swapped out for other options.

The VZ G10 grips were comfortable and offered plenty of support and purchase. They felt a bit larger than the original grips on the standard Cobra, which actually seemed to help in terms of fit and feel. I didn’t think anything was necessarily wrong with the earlier grips, but I did feel like I was shooting better with the new VZ G10 grips.

It looks like shooters will of course have to pay a bit more for these upgrade features. The stated MSRP seems to be $899, which is $200 more than the standard Cobra. But for those searching for a good double-action revolver for carry, the new Night Cobra might be just the ticket.

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Gun Review: E.R. Shaw Goes Long With The ERS-10

Jon R. Sundra

February 5, 2018

The new E. R. Shaw ERS-10 splits the crosshairs exactly where exceptional performance and exceptional value meet.

What to know about the new ERS-10:

The ERS-10 is an AR-10-style rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor or .308 Win.
The test gun weighed in at 9.62 pounds and had a 20-inch stainless 1:8 twist barrel.
The bolt and bolt carrier are 9310 alloy steel and are Nickel-Boron coated.
During testing, the largest group was 1.5 inches, the smallest .5 inch.
The ERS-10’s MSRP is $995.95.

In early 2017, E. R. Shaw, America’s largest independent gun barrel manufacturer based in Bridgeville, Pennsylvania, introduced through its Shaw Precision Guns division its own version of the AR-15. Dubbed, appropriately enough, the ERS-15, Shaw Precision Guns (SPG) became one of many sources of AR-platform rifles. It was really a no-brainer for the company because, for decades, it had been producing tens of thousands of AR barrels in every configuration for dozens of OEMs and gunsmithing supply houses.

As tested the ERS-10 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor with a Leica ER5 4-20x50 scope in a Weaver MSR mount weighed 11 pounds, 6 ounces. — As tested the ERS-10 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor with a Leica ER5 4-20×50 scope in a Weaver MSR mount weighed 11 pounds, 6 ounces.

If that made sense, then the manufacturer’s announcement this past September that it was adding an AR-10 platform to its product line should not have surprised anyone. Predictably, the new gun is designated as the ERS-10, and it’s being offered initially in 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 Win. chamberings.

With the “Creed” basking in what has turned out to be far more than its 15 minutes of fame, how could I not opt to request that flavor for my T&E? What drew my interest as much as anything was that its MSRP is $995, which for an AR-10, is very attractive.

From The Ground Up

The first thing I always do upon taking a new rifle from its box is to weigh it and see how close it comes to the nominal spec, which SPG claims is 9½ pounds in the .308 Win. chambering — sans the 20-round magazine it comes with. As it came from the box, my ERS-10 test gun weighed in at 9.62 pounds, so when you consider the thicker walls of a 6.5 barrel, this claim is right on the nose. I’ve yet to receive a test gun that weighed less than claimed, but I have seen many that weighed more — as much as a half-pound in some cases.

The muzzle brake is of E. R. Shaw design, having a solid bottom, vented top and angled side ports. All in all, it’s about as good looking as a muzzle brake can be.

Anyway, one of the first things I noticed — and it’s but a minor detail — is that the left side of the lower receiver, where all the identifying roll markings are usually found on the side of the magazine well, is absolutely void of any such information; it’s all on the right side. As for the buttstock, there’s not much you can say about it other than it’s the familiar Magpul MOE Carbine mil-spec six-position job, of which there are several variations. This stock is compatible with MOE and other sling attachments and accommodates 1.25-inch sling loops.

The upper and lower receiver measurements of the ERS-10 are about a half-inch longer and a half-inch deeper than Gen II versions of the AR-10 — as exemplified by the current DPMS and Remington R-25. Both are machined from 7075-T6 aluminum forgings and hard-coat anodized. One feature I particularly like is that the shell deflector houses the bolt assist, so you have both functions integrated into one relatively small unit, thus saving an ounce or two in weight.

It’s but one of several variations seen in various AR-10s and AR-15s in that some designs call for the bolt assist at the rear of the receiver, some at the front, some with no bolt assist, and with or without a shell deflector. Others still don’t have a bolt assist, shell deflector or dust cover. The integral Picatinny rail up top has 18 T-Marked slots for a wide assortment of scope and accessory mounting positions. When mated with a cantilever-type scope mount, you have all kinds of mounting latitude. My choice was Weaver’s MSR.

Ample Features Abound

On the lower receiver, the magazine well is machined using the precision wire EDM process, which precludes distortion, and the entrance to the well is flared to help align magazine insertion. The lower receiver hosts an A2-style grip, which is fine unless you have very large hands.

A multi-finned barrel nut serves to anchor the free-floating handguard.

The bolt and bolt carrier are beautifully machined from 9310 alloy steel and are Nickel-Boron coated, which provides a high degree of lubricity and wear resistance. It’s also easier to clean. Just holding the bolt assembly in your hand it actually feels slippery, and, of course, it looks great — with its stainless-like finish contrasting the black anodized receivers. Its slick surface also makes it easier to clean.

The 20-inch stainless-steel barrel, which has a 1:8 twist, is of course an E. R. Shaw premium grade; it measures 1.180 inches at the receiver, then it tapers down to a straight section measuring .875 inch in diameter to where it meets the low profile gas block of the rifle-length gas system. From the front of the block to the muzzle brake, the barrel measures .735 inch, and it, along with the brake itself, carries a non-reflective matte finish, which again contrasts nicely with the black anodized handguard.

Carl Behling Jr., president of E. R. Shaw, and Matt Challis, factory manager, designed the brake. For a muzzle brake, it exhibits some rather complex machining compared to most. It of course has a solid bottom and is vented at the top, the combination of which reduces muzzle rise. There’s a forward rake to the two different vented slots at either side, which overall makes it as attractive as a muzzle brake can be. This brake is available as an accessory item — the stainless version goes for $59.95; the stainless variant with black Melonite finish is $65.

The free-float handguard is 15 ½ inches long and extends some 1½ inches beyond the front of the low-profile gas block, which qualifies it as being of “extended rifle length.” Three continuous M-LOK slots occupy the 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions, with the other 10 flats (facets) hosting either round or elliptical cooling/weight reduction vents. A multi-finned barrel nut serves as the base for the handguard, which slips over it and tightens with a clamshell or C-Clamp arrangement using transverse Allen-headed machine bolts. Up top, the Picatinny rail takes up where the receiver’s 18 slots ends, going from a white T-marked T-20 position to T-54.

Performance, In Spades

To ready the test gun for a little range work, I used the already mentioned Weaver MSR mount to secure a Leica ER5 4-20x50mm scope. Talk about a great piece of glass! A tactical-type scope might have been more appropriate, but I’ve used this scope, which has a simple Duplex-type reticle, for other gun evaluations, and it proved to be such a stellar scope that I take any opportunity to use it again.

With Hornady having developed the 6.5 Creedmoor back in 2007 and now offering 10 different loads for it, I thought it appropriate to use at least three of them in testing. As it turned out, I actually used four. Besides, Hornady fodder has proven to be so damn accurate in every other of the 9 or 10 6.5 Creeds I’ve tested over the years. I also learned in late September that Sig Sauer had just introduced a match load, and I was able to get a sample of it in time as well.

As evident from the accuracy results, when the largest among 25 three-shot groups measures 1½ inches, you could say the test gun performed very well indeed. There was one failure to feed among the very first shots fired, but none after. The trigger pull was a bit hitchy, but being a mil-spec trigger you can only expect so much. It did, however, break predictably at 6 ½ pounds, so it was better than most. The fact that the two 140-grain match loads proved to be the most accurate was no surprise, but the 120-grain A-Max almost matched them. It seems all 6.5 Creedmoor ammo is uncannily accurate, but in my experience, the heaviest bullets usually shoot the best.

I should mention that, with the bolt carrier being Nickel-Boron treated, I ran the test gun bone dry just for the hell of it. No problems whatsoever. That of course is not advisable, and less than 100 rounds fired this way doesn’t mean much, but a Nickel-Boron-treated bolt carrier obviously doesn’t hurt!

The Parting Shots

All in all, I have to give the ERS-10 high marks, especially when you consider its attractive price, as there are not a lot of AR-10s out there for less than a grand. Moreover, this gun carries the same limited lifetime warranty that covers all E. R. Shaw rifles, including the Mark VII and Mark X bolt-action rifles, both of which offer the highest level of customization for the money.

SIG Sauer’s LIMA365 Laser And FOXTROT365 Flashlight

Elwood Shelton

February 2, 2018

SIG Sauer has introduced the LIMA365 and FOXTROT365, low-light accessories that light up the night, while keeping the P365 pistol as compact as ever.

What do the LIMA365 and FOXTROT365 from SIG Sauer offer?

The LIMA365 and FOXTROT365 give the P365 low-light functionality.
They do this while also maintaining the pistol’s compact size.
The LIMA365 boasts a 5 MW red or green laser that has 8 hours of runtime.
The FOXTROT365 produces 100 peak lumens and has 60 minutes of runtime.

There are many aspects a gun is built around — barrel, fire control, cartridge. But SIG Sauer turned to a much different feature in conjuring up its latest-and-greatest concealed carry pistol — the magazine.

Focusing on and actually re-engineering this facet, the company whipped up what was once a pipe-dream of armed citizens, a double-stack micro-pistol with the silhouette of a single stack. With 10+1 rounds of 9mm on tap in a minute package, many in the shooting and self-defense world have already deemed the P365 the Holy Grail. Given its firepower and 1-inch width, 4-inch height and 6-inch length, they may not be too far off.

A conundrum arises, however, when shooters consider outfitting the P365 for low-light operation. Exactly how do you preserve the striker-fired pistol’s greatest asset — concealability — while outfitting it with the tools to excel in the dark? SIG Sauer has apparently considered this problem and has come up with a solution.

The company recently unveiled the LIMA365 Laser Sight and FOXTROT365 Rail Mount Flashlight, specifically designed to increase the P365’s function, while retaining its compactness.

Where SIG has turned an especially studied eye on the two accessories is not only their size, but also their external designs. The LIMA365 and FOXTROT365 have each had every potential snag point shaved away and streamlined to ensure a draw stroke is clean, even in the tensest situations and heaviest of cover. And they have made both accessories nearly a second thought to operate, eliminating any guesswork in getting them into action.

The intuitive operation of the LIMA365 and FOXTROT365 is primarily achieved through the ingenious situation of their power switches. Designed to become nearly integral with the grip, the laser sight and flashlight activate immediately upon gripping the P365. The devices can also toggle on and off through the pressure-sensitive button, giving users ultimate control.

The LIMA365 is available with a 5 MW red or green laser and can run up to 8 hours on a 1/3N battery. The FOXTROT365 features the latest generation Cree LEDs that produce up to 100 peak lumens and has 60 minutes of runtime.

The laser sight has an MSRP of $179 for the red version and $239 for the green. The flashlight has an MSRP of $179. Definitely, this runs at the pricier end of the market for these accessories, but they could be well worth the money for shooters looking to maintain the overall compactness of their P365.

Modern Shooter: Double Eagle Tactical Training

Gun Digest Editors

February 2, 2018

As armed citizens, we spend innumerable hours sharpening our marksmanship skills, understanding the laws and mentally preparing to protect our lives and the ones we love. But when the rubber meets the road, will we make the right decisions in a life-or-death situation? Double Eagle Tactical Training aims to make certain we do, providing some of the most rigorous situational training available today. Armed citizens won’t confront anything more true to life outside of an actual self-defense scenario.

Modern Shooter travels to the heart of New York’s Catskill Mountains to get a first-hand look at the Double Eagle system. And as the above clip shows, the trainers absolutely put their students through the wringer — both mentally and physically. The simulated backyard disturbance Gun Digest author and custom ammunition manufacturer Phil Massaro confronts is filled with ambiguity and danger, forcing him to make split-second decisions that are a matter of life, death and potential legal tumult.

When it’s all over and he and the trainers break down his judgment, it’s easy to see how taxing these scant few seconds were, even on a shooter as seasoned as Massaro. The guns and ammo might have been fake, but the adrenaline was real.

Catch the rest of the action of this heart-pounding episode of Modern Shooter 10:30 p.m. EST Friday on the Pursuit Channel. The episode rebroadcasts Monday at 12 p.m. EST and Tuesday at 11:30 a.m. EST.

Classic Guns: The Sweet Ruger No. 1 Rifle

Jerry Lee

February 1, 2018

Ruger’s fantastic No. 1 single-shot rifle has been a favorite among hunters and shooters since its introduction in the 1960s.

What to know about the classic Ruger No. 1 rifle:

The No. 1’s design is based heavily on the old Farquharson single-shot design.
It’s a falling-block action actuated by a lever just behind the trigger guard.
It’s been offered in almost every popular American caliber, and several European ones.
Since 2014, the No. 1 has been produced in only one caliber each year.
This fact, along with the many different versions made, makes the No. 1 very collectible.

In 1966, Ruger invited a select group of gun writers to a meeting at the NRA convention in Chicago to unveil a new rifle. It was a classic-style single-shot based on John Farquharson’s falling-block design that was patented in Scotland in 1872. The rifle was designed to appeal to the traditional sportsman who appreciated and understood the challenge — as well as the advantages and disadvantages
— of having one shot.

In the 1967 edition of the Gun Digest Annual, the late Roger Barlow wrote a review of the new Ruger rifle and eloquently described the appeal of the single shot.

“The man with a single shot rifle, stalking his game skillfully, thoughtfully calculating his range, not just shooting at his quarry but selecting the most effective shot to place that bullet, then carefully aiming and making that one shot count — that man surely is more of a hunter than is the fellow having half a dozen shots available in his repeater.”

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Originally, the rifle was going to be named the Victorian, due to its 19th century styling, but not long after it went into production, the name was changed. From the beginning, the actions were stamped “No. 1” and that became the official name. This Ruger model should always be referred to in print as “No. 1” and not “Number One” or “Number 1.”

Ruger_No-1-review-8 — Photo by Stan Trzoniec.

Forever ‘No. 1’
The design is not merely a replica of the Farquharson, but it’s a modern take on the action. The falling block is operated with a lever located just behind the trigger guard. This action is much shorter in length — about 4.5 inches — than those of the various repeating rifle designs, which provides one of the No. 1’s major advantages: It can have a longer barrel than a repeating rifle with the same overall length, and therefore achieve a higher velocity.

When the rifle was introduced, the original calibers were the .222 Remington, .22-250 Rem., .243 Winchester, 6mm Remington, .308 Winchester, .30-06 and .458 Winchester Magnum. All were offered with either a 22- or 26-inch barrel, except the .458 Win. Mag., which had a 24-inch heavy barrel. The very first No. 1 was chambered in .308 Winchester and is in the private collection of the Ruger family. The No. 1 has been offered in virtually every popular American caliber, ranging from the .204 Ruger to the .480 Ruger, including several European rounds.

The earliest production rifles were referred to as the S22L, S26M and S24H. These variants were later known as the Light Sporter, Medium Sporter and Tropical Rifle. Other variations, such as the Standard and International, were later added along with many more calibers. The earliest No. 1 models were marked with serial numbers with no prefix, and these models will bring a premium. This serial number range goes from 1 to approximately 8437 for rifles produced through the end of 1969. Beginning in 1970, a prefix was added starting with 130-xxxx.

Beginning in 2014, the No. 1 has been made in a limited range of calibers. Each variation is chambered in only one caliber each year, and that caliber changes every year. Most current models are distributor exclusives available only from Talo Distributors or Lipseys.

The descriptions below cover most regular models in production through 2014. Estimated values are from the 28th edition of Standard Catalog of Firearms (Gun Digest Books, 2017.)

Ruger No.1 -1 — The Light Sporter Model has long been a favorite variant of the No. 1 family. Some of the more interesting chamberings include the .22 Hornet, 7×57 Mauser and .303 British.

No. 1-A Light Sporter
This model features a checkered American walnut stock with an Alexander Henry style forend, barrel band with sling swivel, and a 22-inch barrel with a quarter rib with a folding rear and a ramp front sight. Like all No. 1 variations, it has a shotgun-style tang safety, pistol grip cap and rubber recoil pad. Average weight is 7¼ pounds. Previously offered in .204 Ruger, .22 Hornet, .222 Rem., .223 Rem., .22-250 Rem., .243 Win., 6.5 Creedmoor, .270 Win., 7×57 Mauser, 7mm-08, .280 Rem. (2014 only), .308 Win., .30-06, .300 RCM, .303 British. For serial numbers without a prefix, add a premium to the following prices of 25 to 50 percent, depending on the condition of the rifle.

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$1,050 $900 $750 $550 $350 $200

No. 1-B Standard
The stock on this model has a semi-beavertail fore-end with swivel studs in the buttstock and fore-end. Barrel length is 22 or 26 inches with the quarter rib equipped with the well-known Ruger integral scope mount bases with rings. Average weight is 8 to 8¼ pounds. This model was in production from 1966 to 2010 and at various times was chambered in .204 Ruger, .218 Bee, .22 Hornet, .223 Rem., .22-250 Rem., .243 Win., 6mm Rem., .257 Roberts, .25-06 Rem., 6.5 Rem. Mag., 6.5 Creedmoor, .270 Win., .270 Weatherby Mag., 7×57 Mauser, 7mm-08 Win., .280 Rem., 7mm Rem. Mag., .300 Win. Mag., .300 Weatherby Mag., and .338 Win. Magnum. For serial numbers without a prefix, add a premium to the following prices of 25 to 50 percent, depending on the condition of the rifle. Also add a premium of 40 to 50 percent for rare calibers including the 6.5 Remington Magnum, 7×57 Mauser and 6mm Remington.

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$950 $800 $675 $450 $300 $150

No. 1-H Tropical Rifle
This model is chambered for several big-bore cartridges and was designed primarily for use on dangerous game. The heavy contour 24-inch barrel has adjustable open sights and a barrel band. Other features are similar to other No. 1 models. Calibers have included the .375 H&H Magnum, .405 Win., .416 Ruger, .416 Remington, .416 Rigby, .450/.400 NE, .45-70 Govt., .458 Lott, and .458 Win. Magnum. For serial numbers without a prefix, add a premium of from 25 to 50 percent, depending on the condition of the rifle. Also add a premium of 75 percent for .404 Jeffery and 250 percent for .45-70 Govt.

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$1,050 $900 $750 $550 $350 $200

Ruger No.1 -2 — The Mannlicher-style stock and 20-inch barrel on the RSI International Model appeal to many collectors and hunters.

No. 1-RSI International
The full-length Mannlicher-style stock and 20-inch barrel set this one apart from other No. 1s. It’s equipped with adjustable open sights and an American walnut checkered stock with a complete sling swivel mounted on the forend. This model was limited to the following calibers: .243 Win., .257 Roberts (2014 only), .270 Win., 7×57 Mauser, .30-06 and .300 RCM. As with the other early production models, add a premium to the following prices of from 25 to 50 percent for a non-prefix serial number, depending on the condition of the rifle.

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$1,100 $950 $800 $600 $400 $250

No.1-S Medium Sporter
Similar to the Light Sporter with a 22-inch medium-weight barrel and open sights. This model was chambered in these cartridges: .218 Bee, 7mm Remington Magnum, .300 Win. Mag., .300 H&H Mag., 9.3×62 (2014 only), 9.3x74R, .338 RCM, .338 Win Mag., .375 Ruger, .38-55 Winchester, .45-70 Govt., .460 S&W Mag., .480 Ruger/.475 Linebaugh. Weight varies depending on caliber from 7 to 8 pounds. As with the other early production models, add a premium to the following prices of from 25 to 50 percent for a non-prefix serial number, depending on the condition of the rifle. A limited edition run of 1,500 rifles marking Ruger’s 50^th anniversary was made in 1999. These models featured a high-grade Circassian walnut stock with gold inlays of William B. Ruger’s signature and 50 Years logo. Chambered in .45-70 Govt. only. Add a 100 percent premium for this model.

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$1,000 $850 $700 $500 $300 $200

No. 1-V Varminter
Introduced in 1970, this model has a 24-inch heavy barrel with no sights and target scope blocks. Weight is 8¾ to 9 pounds. It has been chambered in the following calibers: .22 PPC, .223 Rem., .22-250 Rem., .220 Swift, .243 Win., 6mm Rem., 6mm PPC, .25-06 Rem., 6.5-284 Norma, 6.5 Creedmoor, 7mm Rem. Mag., .280 Rem., .300 Win. Magnum.

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$1,100 $950 $800 $550 $350 $200

No. l Lyman 1878 Centennial Rifle
A commemorative Ruger No. 1 series celebrating the centennial of the Lyman Products Company, a manufacturer of reloading tools and other equipment for shooters, was manufactured in 1978. The Grade 1 rifle, of which only 101 were made, is hand engraved with gold accents and a high-grade walnut stock. It has a 28-inch barrel with a 30-inch long tubular 4X Lyman Century scope. The Grade II series, of which 1,000 were made, has photo engraving and not as fancy wood. All models came with a walnut presentation case for the rifle, scope and accessories, including a set of loading dies, bullet mold, a framed letter of authenticity, and a centennial journal like the one that was issued in 1878.

Grade I

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$2,500 $2,000 $1,500 $1,000 $600 $400

Grade II

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$1,900 $1,400 $900 $650 $400 $300

No. 1 Stainless Series
In production from 2000 to 2010, the stainless series was offered in four variations and in many calibers. Features and specifications are similar to the blue-finish models. On all variations listed below, the actions and barrels are stainless and the receivers have a quarter rib and no sights. The stocks are all black laminated.

No. 1 K1-B-BBZ Standard. Chambered in .243 Win., .25-06 Rem., .270 Win., 7mm Rem. Mag., 7mm STW (Shooting Times Westerner), .308 Win., .30-06, .300 Win. Magnum.

No. 1 K1-B-BBZ Sporter. Chambered in .45-70 Govt. or .375 Ruger with 22-inch barrel.

No. 1 K1-B-BBZ Tropical. Chambered in .375 H&H Mag., .405 Winchester, .416 Ruger, .416 Rigby, .458 Win. Mag., .458 Lott, with a heavy 24-inch barrel. Weight is approximately 9 pounds.

No. 1 K1-B-BBZ Varminter. Chambered in .204 Ruger or .22-250 Remington only with a 24-inch bull barrel. Weight is approximately 9 pounds.

Estimated values are for all models:

NIB Exc. V.G. Good Fair Poor

$950 $800 $675 $450 $300 $150

Author’s Note: This article was excerpted in part from Standard Catalog of Ruger Firearms (Gun Digest Books/FW Media, 2014).

Editor’s Note: This “Collector’s Corner” column is an excerpt from the February 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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How-To: Defining Your 1/3 Second Zero

Richard A. Mann

February 1, 2018

Never heard of the 1/3 Second Zero technique to zero in a rifle? Read on: It will improve your hit success forever.

The ins and outs of the 1/3 Second Zero:

The 1/3 Second Zero is similar to Point Blank Range but is based on bullet flight time.
The method works because all bullets drop at the same rate over a given time.
This method also gives shooters a zero that perfectly matches their rifle/ammunition.
Determining a 1/3 Second Zero requires a chronograph, the bullet’s ballistic coefficient and a ballistic calculator.
1/3 second corresponds with the maximum effective range for the zero.

Properly zeroing a big game rifle is critical to making shots in the field. There are a variety of zeroing methods, but the Point Blank Zero (PBZ) might be the most practical. As the great gun writer Jim Carmichel once pointed out, “In some shooting circles, ‘point blank’ means up close and very personal … but in the lingua franca of ballistics, the point-blank range of a cartridge is the maximum distance out to which the bullet will hit a target of a specific size.”

Let’s see if I can simplify the PBZ concept. With PBZ, you sight your rifle in so the bullet will never rise or fall more than half the diameter of your target out to a certain distance. That distance is determined by the velocity and ballistic coefficient of your bullet, fired from your rifle.

For example, if you were shooting baseballs with a .223 Remington, theoretically the ballistics would allow you to hold dead on and hit the 3-inch target out to about 240 yards. In other words, from the muzzle to that distance, the bullet would never be more than 1.5 inches above or below your line of sight. To make this work, you’d have to zero your rifle at about 205 yards. That’s how PBZ works.

TOP: A regulation-size soccer ball has a diameter of roughly 8.65 inches. This is very similar to the size of a big game animal’s kill zone. If you can always hit a soccer ball, you can also effectively place your bullet within the kill zone of most big game animals. BOTTOM: If we sight our rifles in so the bullet never rises or falls more than three inches above or below our line of sight, we are set to hold dead on while big game hunting out to our maximum effective range (MER).

With big game hunting, our target is a bit larger, about the size of a soccer ball. However, you want to allow some wiggle room for shooter error, so working with a maximum target size of 6 inches makes more sense. After spending about a week with a calculator and a lot more time than that at the range, I came up with a zero method for big game rifles I call the 1⁄3 Second Zero. It’s similar to PBZ but is based on bullet flight time, and it works with any rifle cartridge.

Watching The Time

By using time as a parameter, the 1⁄3 Second Zero works because over a given time, all bullets drop the same distance. In fact, in 1⁄3 of a second a bullet — all bullets — will drop about 20 inches. We never see these 20 inches of drop in the field or on the range because we zero our rifles to offset it.

With the 1⁄3 Second Zero, you have a zero that perfectly matches your rifle/ammunition combination, establishes a maximum effective range, and takes the guesswork out of the shot. You simply zero your rifle so your bullet will never be more than 3 inches above or below the line of sight, out to any distance that is no more than 1⁄3 of a second away. The key is in establishing how far 1⁄3 of a second is, because it’s different with every rifle and every load.

1. The first step is to chronograph your hunting ammunition. Fire five shots over a chronograph to establish an average velocity.
2. Next, you’ll need the ballistic coefficient of your bullet.
3. And finally, you’ll need a ballistics calculator. Any program providing time of flight will work. Enter the data for your load and don’t forget to include the height of the riflescope above the bore because it’s a critical element of trajectory calculation. Look at the program like you look at your tax guy; you provide the numbers and he — the program — gives you the good or bad news.

Once you have the data, find the distance corresponding with a flight time of 0.333 or 1⁄3 of a second. This will be your maximum effective range (MER) and you’ll be able to zero your rifle so the bullet will never be more than 3 inches above or below the line of sight out to this distance.

Notice the trajectory difference between gravitational drop, a 100-yard zero, and the 1⁄3 second zero (also known as the soccer ball zero) for this cartridge. The 1⁄3 second zero allows for a dead-on hold out to 300 yards in this instance.

Out to this distance, you’ll also not have to worry about drift in winds of less than 10 mph, and you’ll not have to wonder if your bullet will expand. All big game bullets will deliver reliable expansion out to any distance they can reach in 1⁄3 of a second or less. Finally, at only 1⁄3 of a second away, a small step taken by the animal at exactly the time you pull the trigger is unlikely to move its kill zone out of the path of your bullet.

Calculating Your 1⁄3 Second Zero

The trick is establishing at what distance your rifle should be zeroed, or maybe more easily accomplished, how high you should zero your rifle at 100 yards. There are a couple gun writer-driven myths with regard to establishing a PBZ. One is that you should zero your rifle at 25 yards. Another is that your rifle should be zeroed so the bullet strikes 2 inches high at 100 yards. While neither method is ideal, both can get you close. As a South African professional hunter friend likes to say, “The big thing is,” we’re not playing with horseshoes or hand grenades, so close is not good enough.

For example, my wildcat 2Fity-Hillbilly cartridge — a 6.5 Creedmoor necked down to .257 caliber — has a 1⁄3 second flight time, or MER, of 300 yards. If I zero the rifle at 25 yards, my bullet will be almost 5 inches high at 175 yards. That’s well outside my 3-inch, above or below the line of sight, allowance. If I zero the rifle 2 inches high at 100 yards, I’m 4 inches low at 300 yards — again, this is outside my target window. But, if I apply the 1⁄3 Second Zero where the rifle is essentially sighted in 3 inches low at my MER — I can hold dead on out to that range and always hit a soccer ball.

Knowing your maximum effective range and being able to hold dead-on at that distance can make shots in the field easier.

The simplest way to sort out the 1⁄3 Second Zero is to sight your riflescope in so the bullet strikes 3 inches low at your MER. This can be tricky because your group size and shape at that distance makes confirmation iffy. So, monkey with your ballistics calculator until you see the bullet’s trajectory never rises or falls more than 3 inches above the line of sight out to your MER. This can take some time, but it will save ammunition.

For starters, divide your MER by 10 and enter that as a zero distance. With my 2Fity-Hillbilly cartridge, I would start with a zero distance of 30 yards. This puts the bullet 3.2 inches above the line of sight at 155 yards and 2.44 inches below the line of sight at 300 yards. It’s close, but not ideal.

By adjusting my sight-in distance to 31 yards, my bullet is 2.95 inches above the line of sight at 150 yards and 2.93 inches below at 300 yards. This is about as close as you can get. But, sighting a rifle in at such a close range never really seems to work out. Fortunately, the trajectory data provided by the ballistics program tells me I need to sight in my riflescope so the bullet will strike 2.44 inches high at 100 yards or dead on at 257 yards. Now, I can go to the range, sight my rifle in as indicated, and confirm on targets all the way out to my MER. You might need to tweak your zero slightly due to atmospheric conditions and the personality of your rifle.

Tweaking Your Game Plan

Pragmatically, it makes sense to utilize the 1⁄3 Second Zero and to never shoot at an animal beyond your MER. I know there are a select few hunters who have the tools and skills to shoot much farther, and I’ve got no issue with that. However, the 1⁄3 Second Zero can be beneficial to them, too. While you’re hunting, it’s a good idea to be ready for an animal that might present you with a fleeting opportunity. If that happens, it will more than likely be at a range within the distance your bullet can cover in 1⁄3 of a second.

Even long-range hunters can benefit from the 1⁄3 second zero. While hunting they should keep their elevation dial set to their MER for shots that might suddenly develop.

For long-range hunters, I suggest they set the target turret to their dead-on 1⁄3 Second Zero distance. (With my 2Fity-Hillbilly, that distance is 257 yards.) That way, if an opportunity comes inside their MER, they simply hold dead on and pull the trigger, with no ranging, dialing or holding over or under. It’s just point and shoot, and you’ll hit that soccer-ball-sized kill zone.

The 1⁄3 Second Zero is the solution to a complicated problem. The postulate it proves is that if you sight your rifle — any rifle — in so the bullet strikes 3 inches low at the distance it can travel in 1⁄3 of a second, you can hold dead on a soccer ball out to that distance and get a hit. For a hunter, that’s a big deal and it’s why the 1⁄3 Second Zero is the best approach to sighting in a big game rifle.

This article originally appeared in the December 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

5 Hot New Guns From SHOT Show 2018

Elwood Shelton

January 30, 2018

Some head-turning new guns released at the world’s largest outdoor and firearms expo that will make waves and could be hard to get this year.

The 2018 SHOT Show in Las Vegas is wrapped up and the gun world is awash in new gear, ammo and guns. We at Gun Digest have given you a sneak peak at many of the new firearms coming out this year. And in the future will give you much more in-depth reviews and test fires, so you’ll know where to spend your cold-hard cash.

With that said, there were a few guns that jumped out at me over the course of the event. This is not to say, these are the end-all, be-all of the show. Instead, they are new twists on proven designs or fresh concepts by established gunmakers that appear to add something to the overall market — at least from my extremely humble perspective.

Truly, only time — and the shooting masses — will tell if these guns offer what the greater public desires. So, for what it’s worth, here are five guns that caught my eye from 2018 SHOT.

Bergara HMR Pro

Premier-HMR-PRO-features - guns — Photo: Bergara

Utilitarian design, but precision results, the B-14 HMR made a big splash when it hit the market. And Bergara is shooting to parlay that success with a top-shelf variation of the bolt-action.

The HMR Pro still boasts the fully adjustable internal chassis stock, but it’s mated with the company’s Premium line action and barrel. Hand assembled, the rifle is completely made in Georgia and boasts stainless steel barrel and action and a two-lug floating bolt head. Additionally, the HMR Pro comes outfitted with the externally adjustable TriggerTech trigger.

Perhaps best of all, Bergara’s new rifle comes in a slew of calibers, including: .22-250 Rem., .223 Rem., .308 Win., 6.5 Creedmoor and 6mm Creedmoor. The B-14 variation was only available in .308 and 6.5. The upgraded HMR variation’s MSRP isn’t through the roof; at $1,715 it’s still within reach of shooters who want a precision rifle that’s comfortable in the field and competition.

Savage Fox A Grade

Savage has breathed new life into a truly classic American double gun.

The Fox A Grade Series is the Massachusetts gunmaker’s — actually produced by Connecticut Shotgun Manufacturing Company — take on Ansley Hermon Fox’s impeccable boxlock side-by-side and looks to have all the trimmings.

This includes double triggers, English-style straight grip, oil-finished black walnut stock and, perhaps most eye-catching, a color-case hardened receiver that adds depth to an already attractive gun. Savage has introduced its Fox in both 12 and 20 gauge, with the option of 26- or 28-inch barrels — each with removable chokes.

At $5,000, Savage isn’t giving the Fox A Grade Series away. But given its heirloom quality, the shotgun is certainly a generational investment.

Mauser M18 Bolt-Action Rifle

Mausers, at least in their modern iterations, typically run a small fortune. But that’s changing in a big way with the introduction of the M18.

At $699, the bolt-action is by far the most affordable rifle to roll out of the German gunmaker’s factory in a spell. But prepare your chagrin; it does not boast what most shooters want out of a Mauser — the classic action with oversized extractor claw. Instead, it has a three-lug, full-diameter bolt and Sako extractor. Still, it’s a Mauser. And it’s a fair bet the company known for exacting standards has done this more cost-effective design properly.

The M18 — what the company calls “The People’s Rifle” (Volkswaffe) — comes outfitted with a cold hammer-forged barrel, detachable box magazine, adjustable trigger (2.2 to 4 pounds) and polymer stock. The M18 might not stir the imagination like an M98, but, hey, it puts a Mauser within reach of the majority of shooters.

Ruger Super Redhawk 10mm Revolver

Chambering this size revolver in 10mm Auto might seem like overkill. But, it should produce an eminently shootable gun, with little to no muzzle flip. It makes some sense to see the Super Redhawk go 10mm. The revolver is a favorite of handgun hunters, and the round is in ascendance in that circle. Ruger has the handgun ready to rock out of the box with Ruger rings for mounting a scope and three moon clips to juice this six-shooter with the utmost expediency. The scope mount might be the deal sealer for some when they balance the $1,159 Super Readhawk against a semi-auto pistol.

Mossberg 590M Mag-Fed Shotgun

This was inevitable as a canyon echo once Remington released the 870 DM. But Mossberg could steal the spotlight in the detachable box magazine pump-action show with the 590M’s capacity.

Right off the bat, the company offers 5-, 10-, 15- and 20-round magazines, which definitely expands the defensive capabilities of the $721 gun. The magazine release is convenient to boot, directly in front of the trigger guard making it highly intuitive.

Outside of the ability to accept steel feed-lipped double-stack polymer magazines, this 2¾-inch-only chambered shotgun is pretty much the 590 shooters have come to love. It still meets the MilSpec 3443 requirements for a pump-action. It still features ghost-ring sights, plain old 18.5-inch barrel and vented handguard. Only now, this beast is that much quicker to feed.

The Modern MOA Muzzleloader

Mike Mattly

January 30, 2018

How close have we come to centerfire accuracy with today’s inline muzzleloaders? Close.

The elements of a precision modern muzzleloader:

Every muzzleloader is different — barrel tolerances, breech plug, bullet, sabot, etc.
Because of this not all guns shoot the same groups with the same load.
Almost any production muzzleloader has a 1:28 twist and a barrel of 22-26 inches long.
The 209 shotgun primer is the standard ignition source today.
Learn your gun’s accuracy potential by swabbing the bore between every shot.
Finding the best load for your muzzleloader often takes more than a day.

Christmas of 1987 was like many before it: We opened gifts, loaded the vehicles and headed to my grandparents’ for two weeks of hunting. The pheasant population was on the decline in southern Iowa, so I found myself riding with my uncle and cousin looking for deer with traditional muzzleloaders.

Think of each muzzleloader as having a unique flavor palate. Find a bullet/powder/primer recipe your particular gun likes, and you’ll be rewarded with impressive accuracy.

After a couple of days and several shots, they had to do the dreaded cleaning routine. In the mudroom of their house, they brought in a 5-gallon bucket with hot, soapy water and started scrubbing. I was accustomed to completely tearing down my Remington 1100 every weekend to clean it, but this was ridiculous.

I told my uncle that I really enjoyed tagging along, but I wasn’t sure about this cleaning deal and hunting without a scope. “Don’t buy one of these damn things,” he said. “There’s a guy in Lancaster, Missouri, who makes one that’s easy to clean, you can mount a scope and they claim it’ll shoot as good as a rifle.” And at the end of my 2-week vacation I was the proud owner of a Knight MK-85.

Don’t scoff: That gun changed my life. I graduated from college and got a job working for Knight Rifles. During the course of more than 20 years, I held a variety of jobs for Knight, and they all involved test-shooting guns … every inline muzzleloader currently being manufactured. I spent hours with the competitors’ rifles — shooting, cleaning and picking them apart.

I was also fortunate to shoot at the National Muzzleloading Rifle Association Manufacturers Match for 3 consecutive years. I learned a lot shooting against the best of the best about doping the wind, fouling the barrel and cleaning during a timed match. We had to use guns that were available for anyone to purchase, scopes couldn’t exceed 10x, and we could use black powder or black powder substitute. One glaring fact: no one ever won shooting pellets. Think about that.

Not Your Uncle’s Smokepole

I honestly believe that, today, all the major muzzleloader manufacturers make good guns for hunting deer-sized animals. Once you hit $400, all are pretty even in accuracy. You may like a specific brand or style, but they’re pretty even — if you put in some work to make them perform.

Every muzzleloader is slightly different due to tolerances of barrel, breech plug, bullet, sabot, etc. Crazy as it sounds, there are no governing rules that say what a .50-caliber muzzleloading barrel dimensions must measure. There are rules for centerfire rifles, but nothing for muzzleloaders. One company can have a .50-caliber barrel that measures .500-inch, another can measure .502-inch or even .498-inch.

The author shot this deer at 296 yards with a Knight .52-caliber Disc Extreme muzzleloader, a 375-grain copper Barnes bullet and 150 grains of ffg Triple Seven powder.

Because of things like this, not all guns shoot the same groups with the same loads. You must try multiple bullets, powder charges and primers to discover the perfect combination for your particular rifle.

Building A Shooter

Optics: Muzzleloaders are hard on scopes, and I’ve found that scopes costing less than $200 usually won’t last long. I’ve also destroyed scopes that cost more than $1,000. I tried many brands and models, and the best fit for a hunting muzzleloader is the Bushnell Elite series. I also have a couple Weaver Grand Slam scopes I like.

Bullets: Nearly every production muzzleloader barrel has a 1:28 rate of twist, and most are 22-26 inches long. This twist rate will stabilize bullets between 250 and 300 grains when shot at 1,600 to 2,100 fps.

I’ve killed more than 300 critters in 17 states, four Canadian provinces and Namibia with muzzleloaders, and I used anything from a patched round ball to 530-grain bore-sized conical bullets. All of those options killed the game, but I’m a believer in Murphy’s Law, so I prefer bullets that will perform in the worst-case scenario.

Any bullet will kill a deer standing broadside in the open at 50 yards on a calm day. But what happens at 200 yards with a 10-mph crosswind and you don’t account for wind drift? (A 10-mph crosswind will move a 250-grain bullet with 150 grains of powder nearly 10 inches at 200 yards.) You either hit a shoulder or the guts, both of which are bad news with a smokepole that requires most guys a full minute to reload.

So, I choose bullets that will expand over a wide range of velocities yet hold together if they hit a major bone. Monolithic bullets meet both of those criteria, so I mainly hunt with Barnes or Hornady Monoflex bullets. They offer both 250-grain and 300-grain options, which yield a minimum of 1,000 ft/lbs of energy at 200 yards when pushed 2,000 fps.

Powder: If you travel to any of the National Muzzleloading Rifle Association championships, the majority of the competitors are shooting blackpowder. Blackpowder is arguably the most accurate powder for muzzleloaders because it produces very consistent muzzle velocities and it has a low ignition temperature, which means it’s more likely to go “boom” with no hesitation. But most hunters don’t use blackpowder because government regulations require special shipping and storage procedures. Blackpowder substitutes are the powder of choice. These substitutes create higher velocities and are easier to clean than blackpowder, but they have a higher ignition temperature. Manufacturers have “fixed” ignition issues by using 209 shotgun primers as the new standard ignition source in muzzleloaders.

There are two types of blackpowder substitutes: pellets and loose powder. Pellets are by far the most popular because they’re easy to use. Drop two or three pellets down the barrel and then push the bullet on top. But, there are only two options: 100 or 150 grains of powder. If your gun “doesn’t like” either option, you must try multiple bullets to find the best accuracy. Loose powder offers more customization and burns most consistently.

Ignition: The 209 shotgun primer is the standard ignition source today. These primers are fairly consistent in size due to SAAMI regulations, but the volume of gas and temperature of flame can vary. How does this relate to accuracy? Well, if you’re shooting a really potent 209 primer in a gun with a large bore diameter, say .503 inches, and using pelletized powder with an easy-loading bullet, it’s possible for the bullet to roll out of the barrel a few yards and the pellets shoot out like balls of flame — been there, done that. Take the same barrel with a less-potent primer and it shoots fine.

Cleaning Between Shots: Consistency is paramount, and that means consistent cleaning. Many muzzleloaders today use button-rifled barrels with a groove depth of .004-.006 inches. Each shot you fire leaves residue that fills up the rifling grooves so the next bullet doesn’t grip as well, and accuracy suffers unless you clean the bore. Some powders do burn cleaner than others, but all leave residue.

The best way to know how well your gun will shoot is to swab the bore between every shot with a damp cleaning patch. Depending on the powder, you can use solvent, water or just plain spit to dampen the cleaning patch. Gradually work your way down to the breech plug, but do not push the patch all the way down the barrel in one motion: The crud will be shoved down the bore and jam the patch and cleaning rod in the barrel.

Creating Your Own Muzzleloader Recipe

Whenever I had a consumer call me and say, “I just bought this gun and the season starts tomorrow. What should I shoot out of it?” My answer was, “Use 110 grains of ffg Triple Seven powder and a 250-grain Barnes MZ Expander bullet.” I’ve never shot a muzzleloader that wouldn’t shoot a 2-inch group or less at 100 yards with that combo. But to find the best load for your muzzleloader often takes more than a day.

As I stated earlier, loose powder is my favorite mainly because I can vary my powder charge from 90-150 grains with a particular bullet. You will find that your gun likes one specific powder charge with your bullet better than others.

If you want to shoot deer out to 200 yards, it’s necessary to shoot higher powder charges: between 110 and 150 grains of ffg powder. If you’re using pellets, you need to either use two Magnum Triple Seven pellets or three 50-grain pellets. With pellets, you might need to try a variety of different bullet weights and styles because you can’t vary your powder charge.

I start by pulling the breech plug and looking down the barrel to ensure there’s nothing visible in the bore. Then I run a few dry cleaning patches to remove any oil. Next, I’ll install the breech plug back into the gun with a little bit of anti-seize grease on the threads.

I’ll then fire a few primers through the unloaded gun. This step shows me that the gun is functioning properly and puts some non-corrosive primer fouling residue in the gun. This residue will help make your first shot out of a clean gun closer to subsequent shots.

Measure out 110 grains — by volume — ffg Triple Seven, or use pellets, and pour it down the muzzle. Take your bullet and carefully center it into the muzzle. Push the bullet down the barrel with your ramrod until it firmly sits on top of the powder charge. Do not tamp on the bullet. The pounds exerted to seat the bullet are not critical, but you must be consistent. Don’t push with all of your weight one time and lightly the next.

Load a 209 shotgun primer (Winchester W209 is my favorite) in the gun and you’re ready to fire. After shooting, make note of where this clean-barrel shot hit, but don’t adjust the scope if you’re on the target — you first need to shoot for group size. Remove the primer, place the butt of the rifle on the ground, take a damp cleaning patch and swab out the bore in a scrubbing motion. Use both sides of the cleaning patch to keep the barrel fouling to a minimum. Reload and shoot again. Repeat this process for a total of four shots.

Increase your powder charge to 120 grains of ffg Triple Seven powder and shoot another three-shot group, but remember to swab the bore between every shot with a damp patch. If 110 and 120 grains don’t give you the accuracy you desire, increase to 130, then 140 and then 150 grains of powder. If all five charges don’t produce good results, repeat with a different bullet weight and style. For instance, start with a 250-grain Hornady and switch to a 300-grain Barnes bullet.

Take the time to lean what your muzzleloader likes, and you will be rewarded with exceptional accuracy.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the January 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

New Optics: Night Optics SVTS Thermal Night Vision Scopes

Elwood Shelton

January 30, 2018

The Night Optics SVTS line of night vision riflescopes offers detailed images and fast target transitions.

What makes the Night Optics SVTS line noteworthy?

The SVTS family includes the SVTS-80, SVTS-320 and SVTS-640.
They are the first scopes featuring continuous calibration in a thermal riflescope.
The scopes’ other notable piece of technology is their Heat Tracker function.
This tool helps direct a shooter to the next potential target outside the field of vision.
Other Night Optics releases are the Night Chase NC50 and the Night Optics FIR-i Focusable IR Illuminator.

The challenge of shooting at night or in low-light situations is fairly obvious — lack of light. The most widespread solution to staying on target in the dark, for the most part, has been rudimentary.

Flashlights in self-defense situations and a spotlight in hunting, while effective, share a disadvantage. Flick on the light and the whole world knows your position. And even in the case of filters, to cast a beam of light in a spectrum undetectable to animals requires toting that much more gear into the field and out again.

Night vision technology has changed much of this, offering a light and effective tool to quickly draw a bead when illumination is scarce. And while still at the upper-end of the optics market price-wise, today’s optics offer more functionality for the money than ever before.

Night Optics has taken this aspect to heart with the introduction of its newest line of thermal rifle scopes. The three mid- to high-priced optics that compose the SVTS line — introduced at the 2018 SHOT Show in Las Vegas — arm shooters with cutting edge optics, more than capable of defending a homestead or stacking up coyotes in the dead of the night.

The SVTS family — SVTS-80, SVTS-320, SVTS-640 — are the first scopes featuring continuous calibration in a thermal riflescope, according to Night Optics. The technology ensures shooters stay on target by all but eliminating one of the most frustrating aspects of night vision — screen freeze. With this exasperating anomaly squelched, Night Optics has created scopes that not only excel in the dark, but also in engaging multiple targets.

Target transition had to have been rattling around in the heads of the company’s engineers with the creation of the SVTS line given the scopes’ other notable piece of technology. Heat Tracker is intriguing because it directs a shooter to the next potential target not visible on the display screen. Detecting the heat signature outside the field of view, the scopes display an arrow directing shooters to its location. This makes a visual scan almost a thing of the past.

The scopes come in three magnifications, with core resolutions to match their intended ranges. The entry-level SVTS-80 is a 1x close-quarters optic with 80×60 resolution; the SVTS-320 is the mid-range optic, with 1x, 2x and 4x magnifications and 320×240 resolution; and the SVTS-640 is Night Optics long-range option, with 1x, 3x and 6X magnifications and 640×480 resolution.

Other standard features include recoil-activated recording that automatically saves 10 seconds before and 10 seconds after a shot is fired, along with Snap Back shot-sensing technology that allows the scope to automatically zoom out to reacquire targets quicker than ever before. The MSRP for the SVTS-80 is $1,200, the SVTS-320 $2,000 and SVTS-64 $3,500.

Night Optics also introduced the Night Chase NC50 and the Night Optics FIR-i Focusable IR Illuminator at the 2018 SHOT Show. The company claims the Night Chase is the world’s smallest multi-function IR device, delivering pinpoint accuracy beyond 500 yards with a laser measuring 1mrad at 100 yards. The FIR-i is a 600 mW rail-mounted illuminator capable of flood and spot focus, and it’s effective up to 1,000 yards. The Night Chase is listed with an MSRP of $540 and the FIR-I $300.

How To: Choosing The Best AR Accessories

Tiger McKee

January 29, 2018

Choosing the right, and necessary, gear modifications and upgrades for your AR doesn’t need to be complicated, but it does require some careful thought.

What you need to consider when decking out your AR:

Building A Winner
Whittling Away Weight
Shooting For Simplicity
Revered Reliability
Considering Cost
Take Time To Test

It’s near the first of the year, and we’re all thinking about new gear for our ARs. The temperatures have dropped, the ARs are sitting idle — and we’re staring at them fondly, pondering what modifications or additions we should perform. And SHOT Show is coming up in January, where manufacturers will be presenting their latest wares, adding to an already long list of accessories available for the AR … for your AR.

Here are just a few examples of optics available for the AR. To select the proper optic, you need to think about the intended use of your AR. There’s a lot of optics that will cross over from one use to another. For a very specific need, find out what meets your requirements.

With this many options, how do you choose what gear you actually need? The answer is: with careful consideration, research and testing.

When thinking about modifying your AR, first consider the anticipated use of that particular rifle or carbine. (This also includes AR pistols, which are rising in popularity.) Is it for general use, including self-defense? Or is it for a specific task, like a SPR — special purpose rifle — for long-range accuracy? Then ask yourself what parts/modifications are necessary to fulfill that application. Think long and hard about your AR’s “mission statement.”

Building A Winner

My goal with every AR is to make it lightweight, simple and easy to use. For me, weight is always a factor. Whenever you see a gun with a metric ton of accessories bolted onto it, you can bet the owner doesn’t really use it for training, practice or carrying it around for long periods of time. A hardcore AR owner will have things pared down to the absolute minimum.

Whittling Away Weight

There are a couple of areas where you can save significant weight, such as a thin barrel vs. a heavy barrel. The majority of weight savings is achieved by saving a little bit of weight here and there. Obviously, the fewer accessories, the lighter the weapon.

Things got crazy the last time we had bad tornadoes where I live. There was lootin’ ‘n shootin’ in areas near us, so I carried my carbine constantly for three days. I really appreciated its reduced weight factor. Even on an SPR, which usually has a longer, heavier barrel, you can get weight savings by shaving off a little here and there.

Shooting For Simplicity

Simple is always good. Serious work means I’m shooting a living target. It might be harvesting game for the table, a varmint that needs eliminating or a human threat intent on doing harm to my family or me. For these applications I want a weapon that’s easy to operate. The more complicated the gear, the longer it takes to get it ready. The more pieces there are, the higher the chances that one of them will end up malfunctioning or failing. Yes, today we have outstanding, reliable gear, but this logic still applies. Keep it simple, for ease of use and reliability.

Revered Reliability

And reliability is mandatory. In the field or on the street, there are no alibis or mulligans. When you press the trigger, the shot goes where you need it and the weapon functions fully, ejecting and loading a fresh round, every time. How do you find out what works?

There are thousands of gear reviews on the ‘net. Read reviews, especially in different forums. You can find out what hunters think about something, and how that gear has functioned on the range and on the street. Don’t just read the top reviews. Read the ones that rank that product in the middle and those who thought it sucked. The lowest reviews will often reveal a deficiency that is very specific. “Product X didn’t have feature B.” If you’re never going to use feature “B,” then it’s not a problem.

If a few reviews out of a thousand mention a faulty product, it’s not a big deal. Everyone will produce a few duds. The key is understanding how that company dealt with it. If they took care of it immediately, then I’m not concerned. If lots of people had problems with a defective product, then it’s not something I’m going to waste my money on. If you know someone who has that gear or modification, ask if you can test it. Take time to research before spending any money.

Considering Cost

For most of us, cost is always a consideration. At the same time, make sure to spend the money to get what you need. You’re considering a new scope and have narrowed it down to two choices. Both are fairly expensive, one slightly higher than the other. The higher priced one is perfect; it fits your needs exactly. The less expensive one “might” work most of the time. Maybe.

Some lights are just plain lights, while others include lasers. Regardless of what you choose, you must learn how to use it efficiently and discover any weakness that might exist. Ultimately, remember that simple is better.

You decide to save a few bucks and go with the cheaper model. You bolt it on and hit the range, excited about your new gear. It’s a disappointing trip, and now you’re spending more money to buy what you should have purchased in the beginning. Spend the money necessary to get the right gear — it will do what you need and it will likely last a lifetime.

Always think about the pros and cons of a purchase. Does it fit a specific need? Every modification/part has advantages and disadvantages. At my age, a good optic assists me with speed and accuracy. It adds weight, bulk and complexity, but this is a good trade-off to acquire the target quicker, especially under low-light conditions, and improve my accuracy. Easy decision. Before choosing a new accessory or modification, make sure you understand its true purpose. Carefully consider its design, the pros and cons and if it fills your need.

Take Time To Test

After getting the weapon modified, hit the range to test it. Self-defense weapons should be tested under all types of conditions. Testing under perfect conditions might not point out a specific issue: Work with it in the dark, while it’s raining and when it’s cold.

Please do not modify your gear and then go to a training class to test it. Training is the introduction of new techniques. There will be plenty to focus on without being distracted by trying to figure out how something works or experiencing technical problems. Testing should be done during practice, not during training. Practice, which is repetition, is when you learn how your gear works.

If something doesn’t fit your needs or function the way you thought it should, don’t be afraid to start over, regardless of what you paid for it or how cool it might look. Sometimes progress means taking a step back and reevaluating the situation. Research and study will help prevent this, but sooner or later you’re going to make a mistake. Like I always tell people, “If you’re not making mistakes, then you’re probably not doing it right.”

One of the AR’s great features is its modular design. It’s easy to swap parts. Modifications can be simple or complex. One example is installing a Colt “Gold” extractor spring into the bolt for increased reliability. Changing stocks is a great way to make the AR fit your exact needs. You might decide on putting together a new upper assembly with optics to meet a specific application to bolt onto a lower receiver you already have.

Regardless of the modification or accessory, take the time to choose wisely and test it thoroughly. When you do get your AR just so, know that it will provide you with a lifetime of reliable service.

Editor’s Note: This article originally appeared in the January 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

Reloading Gear: Lyman Cyclone Case Dryer

Elwood Shelton

January 29, 2018

The Cyclone Case Dryer gets shooters to the range or the reloading bench quicker.

The details on the new Cyclone Case Dryer:

- The case dryer can hold 1,000 .223 Rem. cases or 2,000 9mm.
- It is capable of holding most handgun parts.
- The Cyclone Case Dryer can finish most drying jobs in 2 hours.

Gun and case cleaning has advanced by bounds in recent years. In addition to old standbys — bore brushes, solvent, granulated corncob — are cutting-edge instruments that almost guarantee getting every bit of grime and speck of carbon off a metal surface.

Indeed, ultrasonic and rotary cleaners have made firearms housekeeping chores easier and more thorough than ever before. However, given they utilize cleaning solutions, they present a new challenge — drying. In turn, the horizon in finishing a cleaning project has been extended, sometimes to the length of days in the case of brass, as every nook and cranny dries.

Lyman is taking a crack at speeding up this process to a matter of hours with a clever (and obvious) solution it unveiled at the 2018 SHOT Show in Las Vegas. Just like your clothes drier — except without tumbling — the Cyclone Case Dryer harnesses heated forced air to get gun enthusiasts back doing to what they really love — shooting and reloading.

“What is great about the Cyclone Case Dryer is the fact that it is a time saver,” Trevor Mullen, VP of Global Marketing and Business Development for Lyman Products, said. “What may have taken someone days to accomplish is now dry and spot free in just an hour or two. And for gun parts, you can’t beat the time it will take to get your gun cleaned and dry. You can get back on the range in just hours now.”

Configurable, the five-tray unit can dry most handgun parts and a good volume of brass in a fairly short time. Lyman pegs the Cyclone Case Dryer’s capacity of up to 1,000 .223 Rem. cases or 2,000 9mm cases. And while the company claims most jobs can be finished in two hours, the dryer can be run up to three hours. For anyone who uses a fluid-based cleaning system, even at three hours, this is a godsend.

Per usual, Lyman has set a fairly affordable price for the Cyclone Case Dryer, with a MSRP of $64.95. For anyone shooting to get their handgun back in action faster or eliminate bass tarnishing, that could turn out to be a square deal.

How To Extend The Life Of Your AR

Tiger McKee

January 24, 2018

The AR is a highly reliable firearm — as long as the shooter maintains it properly.

If you take care of your rifle it will take care of you:

Must-Have Tackle
Efficient And Effective Cleaning Tips
Lube For The Long Haul
General Maintenance Guidelines And Tactics

The AR is basically an internal combustion engine. Instead of gasoline, it runs off gunpowder, which burns dirtier than gas. With cleaning and lubrication, the AR will serve you well, always ready for use. Or, if it’s going into the safe for winter, you’ll want to make sure it’s prepped for long-term storage.

To properly clean the AR, you’ll need some specialty pieces of equipment. Can you clean it with your standard packaged kit? In an emergency, anything will probably do. But, the AR is a little different than Granddad’s huntin’ rifle.

Must-Have Tackle

First, get a good cleaning rod. I use Dewey rods, which are nylon coated with a rotating ball-bearing handle. The coating prevents carbon and residue from impregnating the rod, which ends up damaging the barrel. The handle allows the rod to rotate on the rifling as it travels down the bore. Segmented steel or aluminum rods and “snakes” are for field use only.

Use a bore guide. This is a tube that goes into the upper receiver and seats into the chamber. As you push the rod down the barrel — always travel in the same direction the bullet goes — the guide prevents damage to the chamber and throat. I use a jag to hold patches, as opposed to a loop. With a loop — think about the eye of a large sewing needle — there’s a chance the loop will rub against the bore. The patch goes around the jag so there is less chance of this happening.

You’ll also need a chamber brush. The barrel extension — rear of the barrel that contains the chamber — has female lugs that the male lugs of the bolt seat into. This area gets a lot of residue built up and must be cleaned to maintain reliability and accuracy. The chamber brush is the only way to clean it well.

Be sure to get a tool for cleaning the bolt and bolt carrier, too. This is much more efficient than doing it by hand. An upper receiver cleaning kit has a large rod, brush and mop to clean the upper receiver where the bolt carrier rides. High-quality patches and cleaning swabs are a must. You don’t want lint and little strings inside your engine. Over the years, I’ve collected various wood dowels and “sticks” that I put patches on to clean small, tight areas. Eventually, you’ll figure out what works best for you.

Efficient And Effective Cleaning Tips

I start by cleaning the chamber, using the chamber brush and my specialty tools. Cleaning the barrel first and then the chamber will just reintroduce grime back into the clean barrel, and then you have to start over.

Ask 20 shooters how they clean the barrel and you’ll get 30 different answers. Everyone has their way, and almost none are the same. When I clean the barrel, I want to remove all carbon and powder residue but leave the copper in the bore’s microscopic imperfections. The copper build up in the small hills and valleys makes the bore smoother. If you clean that out, it has to build back up once you start shooting again. However, if the gun is going into the safe for a long time, I will use Hoppes to clean out the copper and then heavily lube everything prior to storage.

To clean the barrel, I use Break-Free’s CLP cleaner and patches on a jag. I run a wet patch with CLP down the bore, followed by dry patches. After each pass, I pull the rod out and wipe it down. Once the dry patches are coming out clean, I repeat the process several times. Once everything is coming out clean, I lube the barrel with SLIP 2000 EWL oil. If the rifle is going to sit for a while, I’ll leave the barrel “wet” with oil. With my work rifles, I’ll run one dry patch through to collect any excess oil.

Never attempt to clean the gas tube. This gets cleaned when the high-pressure gas travels through it. Trying to clean it will only create more trouble. If it’s questionable, then replace it.

Lube For The Long Haul

Lubrication is critical for the AR. I have an AR — one of the Shootrite Katanas built by MHT — that has more than 20,000 rounds through it without ever having been cleaned, but it does get lubricated regularly. I don’t recommend this for a work rifle; however, it proves that an AR will run dirty but it won’t run dry.

Lubes break down into two categories: grease and oil. Over time, grease will start to gum or cake up. Oil will eventually start to wick whichever way gravity is pulling it and evaporate. I use a combination of both — Mil-Comm’s TW25B grease and Slip 2000 EWL oil. When combined, the oil keeps the grease from solidifying and the grease prevents the oil from wicking and evaporating. I start by putting on grease, working it into the pores of the metal. The SLIP oil goes over that.

You want to lubricate any areas that see friction. On the bolt, the lugs and the raised shoulder about midway back get grease and oil. For the gas rings, ejector and extractor, I’ll put a drop of oil only. A little oil on the back of the bolt, behind the gas rings, will make it easier to clean. The bolt carrier has raised shoulders where it rides in the receiver, the bottom where it resets the hammer and the gas key on top that rides in the channel of the charging handle. Look at the carrier and you’ll see wear marks on these areas. They get grease and oil, as do the cam pin and firing pin.

One area that people tend to forget is the buffer spring. Remove the buffer and spring, clean the buffer tube and lube the spring. On the trigger group, I put one drop of oil on each side of the hammer and trigger pins — where the springs are — a drop on the disconnector and the bottom hook of the hammer. Too much lube on the trigger group will just attract more gunk.

The charging handle is also a big source of friction. Lube the sides and top, which are the areas in contact with the upper receiver, with grease and oil.

General Maintenance Guidelines And Tactics

While cleaning and lubing, always inspect all parts for wear or breakage. This includes checking the extractor and ejector springs, gas rings and making sure the gas key on top of the bolt carrier hasn’t worked loose. The key is staked in place, but if it’s not properly staked it can work loose.

For fieldwork, you should have a small, compact cleaning kit, along with lube. It’s also a good idea to have a few spare parts like the firing pin retaining pin, a cam pin, gas rings, extractor spring and firing pin. These parts are small and easily lost, or if there’s a part breakage, you can get the rifle up and running again very quickly.

How often should you clean your AR? That depends on how many rounds you’ve fired, how dirty the power burns and the temp and humidity. How long should it take to clean your AR? A thorough cleaning takes me about 45 minutes — and that’s to clean, inspect, lube and reassemble.

As the Marine Corps’ Rifleman’s Creed says, “I will keep my rifle clean and ready, even as I am clean and ready. We will become part of each other.”

Take good care of your AR, and it will always be ready for any challenge you ask it to overcome.

This article originally appeared in the December 2017 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

New Rifle: CMMG’s Valkyrie — Mk4 DTR2

Elwood Shelton

January 24, 2018

CMMG has jumped on the .224 Valkyrie bandwagon with the Mk4 DTR2, optimized to make the most of the ballistically talented cartridge.

The scoop on the .224 Valkyrie and CMMG’s new Mk4 DTR2:

CMMG is one of eight gunmakers with rifles chambered for the .224 Valkyrie.
The Mk4 DTR2 is optimized for long-range shooting.
It boasts a 24-inch barrel with a 1:7 twist.
It is decked out in Magpul furniture, including fully adjustable PRS Stock.
Mk4 DTR2 build components are also available.
The complete rifle has an MSRP of $1,700.

The .224 Valkyrie is still in its infancy and has plenty of growing pains to endure before it’s cemented as tried-and-true. Despite its youth, Federal Premium’s bundle of long-range joy has already attracted its fair share of admirers.

And why not? The ammo maker hasn’t been shy in ballyhooing the potential of its small-bore hot-rod. The company claims the round maintains supersonic velocities out to 1,300 yards, outperforming nearly everything in its class — 22 Nosler, .223 Rem., and 6.5 Grendel. Additionally, it pegs its performance at the heels of the 6.5 Creedmoor, while producing less recoil along the way.

That’s quite a package, one that hasn’t only turned long-range shooters’ heads, but also gunmakers. With only scant factory-loaded ammunition on the shelves and SAMMI certification expected this month, no less than eight manufacturers have announced rifles chambered for the Valkyrie. And given the .224’s main concept is extending the range of AR-style rifles, it’s little surprise CMMG is among the cartridge’s early adopters.

The Missouri rifle-smith has made a name for itself keeping abreast of the latest trends in the black rifle market. In turn, its Valkyrie offering — the Mk4 DTR2 — fits right into its ethos. And the rifle should have what it takes to end up on many interested shooters’ short lists for something to launch the new round.

More than anything, CMMG has turned its eye to configuring the rifle so it milks the full ballistic potential out of the Valkyrie. A quick gander at the Mk4 DTR2 and it’s obvious what this means — barrel and plenty of it.

In all, the medium-taper stainless steel barrel is 24 inches, capped with CMMG’s SV Brake. This makes it an overall large rifle, especially compared to other AR-15s at 44.5 inches in length and 9.2 pounds unloaded. In size and heft, that’s more the territory of a wood-stocked bolt-action. But, the long barrel has a purpose, allotting plenty of bore for all the powder from the Valkyrie’s necked down 6.8 SPC/.30 Rem. parent case to burn. As an added benefit, it also provides a stable platform for long-range shots, one certain not to produce much recoil — a plus for multiple-shot strings.

Given the Valkyrie shoots heavy-for-caliber bullets — 60-grain to 100-grain — the barrel also has a faster twist rate — 1:7. And shooters won’t have to wait to run the full spectrum of projectiles through the Mk4 DTR2, since Federal has already released a good selection of ammunition, including: Gold Medal Sierra MatchKing, 60-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip Varmint, 100-grain Fusion MSR and 75-grain American Eagle TMJ.

In addition to the chambering, the Mk4 DTR2 also has a beefed up bolt to handle the larger case and more powerful load. Additionally, the gun utilizes 6.8 SPC magazines — it comes with two 10 rounders — given the wider cartridges do not stagger correctly in a .223 Rem./5.56 NATO magazine. The Mk4 DTR2 comes outfitted with a Magpul MOE pistol grip and a PRS Stock, which is fully adjustable with .8 inches of play in the comb and 1.4 inches in length of pull. The rifle comes with a Geissele SSA 2-Stage Trigger standard and boasts CMMG’s RML14 M-LOK handguard and new Ambi Charging Handle.

The company is also offering a standalone Mk4 DTR upper group, bolt carrier group and barrel for the Valkyrie, opening the door for individual builds. Price-wise, the Mk4 DTR2 is at the upper end of the AR market, with an MSRP of $1,700. The upper group runs $900, carrier group $175 and barrel $260. But given its configuration, the Mk4 DTR2 might be price right for those itching to put the Valkyrie to flight.

How To: Making A Muzzleloader Shoot MOA

Mike Mattly

January 23, 2018

MOA accuracy with a muzzleloader is achievable, but requires attention to the smallest details.

Thoughts on how to achieve accuracy with a muzzleloader:

Consistency is the key to accuracy with muzzleloaders.
Every step of loading should remain the same, so the next shot performs like the previous.
Saboted bullets add a level of forgiveness to this process.

The Holy Grail of muzzleloading is to shoot 1-inch groups at 100 yards. To achieve MOA with a muzzleloader you must be consistent with everything you do.

When you pour powder into your measurer, do you tap on the sides to make it settle? If so, how many taps? Do you scrape the excess powder off of the measurer so it’s precisely full every time? When you swab out the barrel between shots, do you use one side of the damp patch or both sides? Do you follow the damp patch with a dry patch? If you vary your technique you’ll never obtain great accuracy.

I start with a completely clean and dry bore. I run a dry patch down the barrel to remove oil from storage, then I put rubbing alcohol on a patch and swab the bore using both sides of the patch. Then I fire three Winchester W209 primers through the gun to foul the bore with non-corrosive residue.

I always use saboted bullets because they are forgiving, and because every barrel is slightly different. A plastic sabot will compress and take up the difference between a .500-inch bore or a .502-inch bore.

I went out the other day to test a rifle. I started with ffg Triple Seven powder and 250-grain Hornady Monoflex bullets that have shot great for me in other rifles. I shot groups with 110 to 150 grains of powder and the best group measured 2 inches at 100 yards. I then switched to a 300-grain Bloodline Bullet. I started with 110 grains of ffg Triple Seven and worked my way up. Every increase in powder reduced my group size, which is contradictory to what normally happens. Regardless, at 150 grains of ffg Triple Seven, I shot a 1-inch group at 100 yards.

Why that bullet and that powder charge? Because it’s a muzzleloader.

Editor’s Note: The article originally appeared in the January 2018 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.

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GUN DIGESTWE KNOW GUNS SO YOU KNOW GUNS

Shooting a modified version of the powerful and classic straight-walled cartridge, Phoenix Weaponry’s 45-70 Auto Christine rifle can tangle with nearly any game on earth.

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Colt is continuing its expansion into revolvers, bringing out the upgraded Night Cobra for 2018.

Find Out More About Iconic Colt

The new E. R. Shaw ERS-10 splits the crosshairs exactly where exceptional performance and exceptional value meet.

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Ample Features Abound

Performance, In Spades

The Parting Shots

SIG Sauer has introduced the LIMA365 and FOXTROT365, low-light accessories that light up the night, while keeping the P365 pistol as compact as ever.

Ruger’s fantastic No. 1 single-shot rifle has been a favorite among hunters and shooters since its introduction in the 1960s.

Get More Ruger Info:

Never heard of the 1/3 Second Zero technique to zero in a rifle? Read on: It will improve your hit success forever.

The ins and outs of the 1/3 Second Zero:

Watching The Time

Calculating Your 1⁄3 Second Zero

Tweaking Your Game Plan

Some head-turning new guns released at the world’s largest outdoor and firearms expo that will make waves and could be hard to get this year.

What are the head-turners?

Bergara HMR Pro

Savage Fox A Grade

Mauser M18 Bolt-Action Rifle

Ruger Super Redhawk 10mm Revolver

Mossberg 590M Mag-Fed Shotgun

How close have we come to centerfire accuracy with today’s inline muzzleloaders? Close.

Not Your Uncle’s Smokepole

Building A Shooter

Creating Your Own Muzzleloader Recipe

The Night Optics SVTS line of night vision riflescopes offers detailed images and fast target transitions.

Choosing the right, and necessary, gear modifications and upgrades for your AR doesn’t need to be complicated, but it does require some careful thought.

What you need to consider when decking out your AR:

Building A Winner

Whittling Away Weight

Shooting For Simplicity

Revered Reliability

Considering Cost

Take Time To Test

The Cyclone Case Dryer gets shooters to the range or the reloading bench quicker.

The AR is a highly reliable firearm — as long as the shooter maintains it properly.

If you take care of your rifle it will take care of you:

Must-Have Tackle

Efficient And Effective Cleaning Tips

Lube For The Long Haul

General Maintenance Guidelines And Tactics

CMMG has jumped on the .224 Valkyrie bandwagon with the Mk4 DTR2, optimized to make the most of the ballistically talented cartridge.

MOA accuracy with a muzzleloader is achievable, but requires attention to the smallest details.

Thoughts on how to achieve accuracy with a muzzleloader:

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