The author's Titanium Commander Ned built. This is a ten-shot, thirty-yard, Ransom rest group. Be envious.
Patrick Sweeney takes a look at custom 1911s that are both works of art and precision shooters. In this installment, Sweeney shows off his Ned Christiansen Titanium Commander in 9mm.
Ned is not one to stick to a single pattern. While he is known for his “Conamyds” he will undertake a task in a wide variety of styles, or even make one up if need-be. Conamyds are like checkering, but he made a special tool (and fixture, and process) to machine cones instead of pyramids.
The Conamyds Ned makes. This takes a special tool, planning, skill and patience.
The cones, left flat-topped (else they’d be far too sharp) provide a distinctive non-slip pattern. Nothing looks like Conamyds, and no one else does them.
Ned built a special gun for me, a 9mm Titanium Commander. Built on a Caspian Commander slide and titanium race-ready receiver, he went to town. On it, he put some of his hallmark touches.
He designed a new and improved grip safety, one that even those whose hands don’t like the grip safety can get along with. He put his “Shield-Driver” sight on it. That design allows you to use the edge of something stout, like a holster, tactical shield or doorway, to work the slide. And he put his Conamyds on it.
Since the slide already had cocking serrations (I hadn’t thought to have the slide done bare, and Conamyds for it too, silly me) he simply milled a flat on it and put lateral serrations as a non-glare touch.
Finally, he added a low-profile lanyard loop that is recessed in the mainspring housing. I’ve had a number of people look over and gush over the pistol, and some have not even noticed the lanyard loop.
Here I am, with the Ned 9mm. I’m two hits short of a passing score, shooting a rifle qualification course.
But Ned likes to stretch the boundaries. He did a real 1911 as a custom gun. The pistol originally left Colt in 1924. It arrived in 2009 with a finish mostly gone and some minor pitting. So Ned made it Real, not Retro. He tightened it up, put on hi-viz sights that would not have been considered outrageous in 1924, a low-profile lanyard loop, and polished it to the standard of 1924: perfect.
At the other extreme, he did a 9mm comp gun, a proof-of-concept project. The comp is the most effective he could devise. The tang was re-sculpted to get your hand higher than any other tang allowed. To accommodate the tang, he re-designed the thumb safety so it pivots at the front end, instead of the rear.
The result is a 9mm gun that cycles like lightning and has so little felt recoil it is like shooting a super-loud .22LR. And as the piece de resistance, he milled the top of the slide to accept an Optima 2000 red-dot sight. No iron sights at all.
And finally, he is the only one I’ve ever seen who could take an LAR Grizzly, in .45 Win Mag, and make it look good. Even made it look like a normal 1911, if you didn’t have it in your hands to check the actual size.
This is an excerpt from: 1911: The First 100 Years.
Democrats have taken a radical turn to the left under the leadership of liberal anti-gunners like Nancy Pelosi, Harry Reid and Barack Obama, and the electorate is ready to make a correction.
There is no doubt that the country is at a crossroads, with America’s Constitutional Republic hanging in the balance.
For 20 years, GOA has been the only gun group publishing an open-source national rating for gun owners to use. Our rating has been so devastating in smoking out the anti-gun bias of phony politicians that the Brady Campaign even took us before an administrative court three years ago to try and silence us. They lost.
Dressed in camouflage from head-to-toe, an unidentified woman parked her car about a mile from her former co-worker's Cherokee County home, walked the rest of the way and slipped inside with a gun.
It was 6:30 this morning, and the homeowner's wife had just left for work.
A struggle ensued between the man and the woman.
A shot was fired.
A bullet hit the woman in the head, killing her.
That was the story that Cherokee County Sheriff Roger Garrison laid out during a press conference late this morning, just hours after deputies responded to a shooting at 113 Bethany Manor Way.
“It's an understatement to say that it's just a bizarre instance,” he told reporters outside the house. “The person that obviously knows the most about the situation is deceased so it's going to be very difficult to ever determine exactly what the motive may have been.” Read More
I just received a Flattop SIG M400 Direct Gas AR with MagPul adjustable stock, forend and grip. Look for an indepth article in the future but suffice it to say that, well, have you ever picked up a gun and said something like “Oh yeah baby”? The folks at SIG bullseyed this baby-it fits me like the proverbial glove. Can't wait to shoot it and get back to you.
Lately I have been working with a sample of this outstanding 750 lumen adjustable tactical light. When my book Own the Night-Selection and Use of Tactical Lights and Laser Sights was published in 2009, the top end LED lights on the market were at a very respectable 120 lumens. I predicted that the technology would continue to improve and boy did it ever!!
What I like about the TAC-OPS T4 in particular is its adjustment system. By simply turning a dial on the light head, one can switch from Low to High to OFF (which River Rock calls Safety-Lock – which it is). You don't want a light of this power to be left on in a confined space-the buildup of heat could be disastrous. Also the High Setting is way too much power for close in work that you would use a day to day flashlight for in police work-somewhere in the 100 lumen or less range. But that 750, oh my what an eyeball scorcher for tactical use, and it blankets a large area, giving you a large area of coverage and effect in dynamic entry or search situations. It would be excellent for attachment to an AR-15.
Other likes? Price!. Retail is $99.95. Batteries? Only needs two CR123 lithiums to power it and not 3. Size? Very compact for power output.
I highly recommend this light for your consideration.
Did the HS Precision Pro Series SA SPL achieve benchrest accuracy without the weight? L.P. Brezny puts one in .25 WSSM to the test.
With H.S. Precision sitting almost in my backyard out here in western South Dakota it is easy to get a look at their product line. And I really like the Pro Series 2000 SA SPL varmint rifle. The SA stands for short action and the SPL means Sporter Light.
H.S. apparently believes there is a real need for a very cool ultra lightweight centerfire rifle out there in the prairie dog towns, speed goat water holes, and over those calling rigs when taking on coyotes and other related critters. They are right. When first shouldering the rifle that was equipped with a Leupold 4X12 VX-II scope, I found that the total weight of the complete rig lacking rounds in the magazine was under six pounds.
With an ultra light pencil thin barrel that is fluted to again drop off excess heat and weight the slim sporter benefits from a lightweight stock in a composite material. It also has an all-steel magazine well but still retains the heft of a 22 rimfire rifle. With all that, the rifle can still be chambered with the power of a heavy centerfire cartridge locked inside its slim custom stocked wrapper.
The Pro Series I was introduced to for testing and review by H.S. Precision was chambered in 25 WSSM, a very versatile critter control cartridge, as well as a very effective whitetail, pronghorn, or mule deer round. I have tended to lean toward the 25 WSSM out in the open West quite often, as I do own several other rifles chambered in this cartridge. When it came to live fire testing the new rifle handloads came to the forefront. With a set of Redding dies in a three-unit set I can buy new Winchester brass, or resize and neck up both .223 WSSM, or 243 WSSM of which I have about a lifetime supply sitting around the storage room currently.
What was of real interest here was possibly obtaining an answer to the question regarding how well the new H.S. Precision rifle could take on the temperamental super short 25 caliber round as a handloaded affair? Many a riflemen has met his handloading match trying to get the most out of this cartridge, and I am no exception to the rule. The fact is simple, 25’s in super short cases can be a devil to work with at times.
I settled on of 51.5 grains of Ramshot Hunter, Federal LR primer, and an 87-grain Speer TNT bullet. With a muzzle velocity of 3,500 fps these would be hard-hitting missiles out on the open prairie.
First up was the need to create a load for sighting in the rifle. I settled on of 51.5 grains of Ramshot Hunter, Federal LR primer, and an 87-grain Speer TNT bullet. The once-fired factory nickel-plated brass needed some additional work beyond a simple resizing in the full-length Redding die. The cases were first run across a torch so as to anneal them a bit softer, and with luck increase case life a bit.
These Winchester plated cases can be tough to work with because they are also heavy, with very thin walls. At times they move through a reloading die quite stubbornly. I was in luck however, as my first series of loads ran smoothly without any problems. With a muzzle velocity of 3,500 fps these would be hard-hitting missiles out on the open prairie.
When chambering the Super Shorts as once-fired handloads in a rifle that is not dead-on perfect in terms of its chamber reaming, the WSSM can hang up, or simply not feed. In some rifles I had to rotate the chambered case by hand to find the original position at which the case had been previously fired. But as a testament to, well, the precision of H.S. Precision this rifle fed and functioned perfectly with handload or factory rolled ammo, including the 110-grain Accu-Point from Winchester.
Not a single element of chamber problems was found. Accuracy H.S. Precision rifles are 10 X cut-rifled. That’s old school my friends, and what it means is that using WWII-era methods of rifling a barrel to insure the lands and grooves are sharp edged and don’t tend to build up bullet jacket material. This helps maintain accuracy. These rifles shoot straight. I am basing that on this test rifle as well as the several others I have reviewed over the past several years. In terms of barrel length the buyer has a choice that ranges from 22, 24 or a 26-inches.
Action bedding is reinforced block style, but in the case of the H.S. rifle stock this is a full-length operation and not just pillar bedded at the magazine well. When ordering a rifle the buyer has a choice in opting for 16 different stock colors and patterns. From camo to bright blue the choice is yours. For those that desire it a muzzle break can be installed at the factory for a small fee.
The short action sporter light varmint rifle from H.S. Precision, also known as the Pro Series 2000 SA SPL, weighs in at under six pounds, but can still be chambered with the power of a heavy centerfire cartridge locked inside its slim custom stocked wrapper.
On the first day on the range I was able to shoot moa groups at 100 yards via my home-rolled Speer-capped fodder. This shooting was done off a very simple light plastic portable bench and rest by Case-Gard. With a move to a Big Shooter heavy prairie dog shooting bench that was truck mounted for mobile field use things improved to the point that this lightweight field rifle was shooting like a bench-rest rifle.
H.S. Precision indicates that all their rifles are test fired in house, and a paper group is sent with the finished rifle. These rifles are expected to shoot sub 1/ 2 moa or better. If it does not the rifle is rejected for commercial sale. The following are accuracy results as produced with handloads and factory ammunition.
Note the consistent accuracy produced by a pencil-pipe rifle barrel that measures just .554 inches at the muzzle, and 1.180, or at the receiver ring.
I should also mention that this barrel has deep flutes to dissipate heat buildup when shooting multiple rounds. Without question the light contour of the barrel would suggest a hunter’s tool, versus a “bang-and-reload” high-volume prairie dog shooter.
For the most part coyotes, big game, and even large rodents (woodchucks) are single-round targets anyway. The new H.S. Precision rifle fits the task at hand regarding both game and varmints. Trigger function as applied to the Pro Series 2000 is outstanding right out of the box. There is only a sharp crisp hand-made single-stage trigger with let off that is easy to master after only a few rounds sent down range.
Hunters should understand that these rifles are about as close to a hand-built custom at an over-the-counter price as you’re going to see. All the rifle parts are built at H.S. Precision from raw steel stock.
No foreign parts, and even the H.S stocks on these rifles, totally hand-made in-house, have become world renowned for their ability to deliver accuracy and years of dependability.
With a basic action design much like the Winchester Model 70 in terms of the safety function (three-position) which is never a bad thing, the turn bolt H.S. Precision tends to move cartridges as smoothly as a ball bearing that is rolling on glass.
With the safety engaged the bolt is locked. This makes the rifle saddle ready and safe when packing into rough country. However, with the half safe position engaged, the bolt is functional.
With the button-type extractor and a double forward lug locking system the bolt design tends to take on a Remington Model 700 appearance. When checking the lug contact points for any excess slop or misalignment I found none.
As a testament to, well, the precision of H.S. Precision this rifle fed and functioned perfectly with handload or factory rolled ammo, including the 110-grain Accu-Point from Winchester.
These rifles have been blue printed with care. All metal fit is very exact, and it shows when accuracy is taken into account. This flat-surface Teflon-coated action is available in both long and short versions. Action length, of course, would depend on the choice of cartridge.
Because the Sporter Lightweight model an ultra light carry rifle I would suggest that some thought be given over to the choice in cartridge. The short action is without question the preferred style in my opinion, and in some ways the Pro Series 2000 in the Sporter Lightweight owes this action length in terms of a very good fit for the overall rifle design.
To mash a long action on the Sporter Lightweight seems to me to be counter-productive in a way. Why not just shoot a larger rifle when long-action rounds are getting the call?
Field carry of this rifle was nothing short of a dream. I hunted the northern Black Hills for lion during my review period. This area offers very rugged slopes, and requires a light rifle with other well designed pack gear. I found the Series 2000 Sporter Lightweight to be a pure joy to haul around.
Balance is outstanding for fast offhand shooting, and because the action is dependable and smooth, the short fat 25 WSSM rounds fed with ease each and every time. This has not always been the case regarding the WSSM family of cartridges as applied to different bands of rifles being both custom built and factory offerings.
With the American hunting population getting older every day I know for a fact that many hunters are searching for that single rifle that can just about do it all and carry like a 22 rimfire when going afield. The H.S. Precision Pro Series 2000 Sporter Lightweight is the answer.
This article appeared in the August 2, 2010 issue of Gun Digest the Magazine.
Author's Remington 40-XB, ready for testing. Hollywood tool, set up at the bench, allowed reloading at the range. The rifle delivered excellent groups, favorite loads beating the factory guarantee. Scope is a Bausch & Lomb 6x-24x.
Much of my shooting in recent times has been with the shotgun, more particularly the trap gun — one year I spent 50 Sundays shooting the clays and only lousy weather prevented my going out the other two days.
One day not long ago, though, I read with renewed interest an article in a recent Gun Digest by Field & Stream’s gunscribe, Warren Page, called “Half-Minute Rifles.” In it I learned that Remington had a centerfire rifle available, guaranteed as to accuracy. My ears perked up, my interest increased, and I knew I’d have to have one of ‘em! After much hard thought on caliber choice I ordered a 40-XB heavy barrel model in standard 6mm Remington caliber, with a twist of 1–10″.
I was, of course, impatient to have the rifle in my hands as soon as possible, but because the 40-XB is a special order rifle it takes time — in my case it was close to 8 weeks.
Specifications
The 40-XB can also be had with a light or “standard” barrel. The heavy barrel model weighs in at 111⁄4 lbs., less sights, the standard is 11⁄2 lbs. lighter. Both barrels are about 271⁄4″, and for some $20 extra, stainless steel barrels can be had. They’re recommended, by Remington, for such hotter cartridges as the 7mm Rem., 30–338, etc., and they will also give increased barrel life for the 6mm Rem. and 22–250. This is something for the varmint hunter to consider.
Most 40-XBs supplied are single shot; repeaters can be had, again for an extra $20, in cartridges up to the 7.62 NATO, better known as the 308 Winchester. The SS style has a slight edge in accuracy usually, the action being stiffer because there is no weakening cut-out through the bottom of the action and stock.
One other option is a $40-extra trigger with a 2-oz pull, for bench-rest and target shooting. It is generally considered too light for field use. However, the trigger on my 40-XB can be adjusted down to about 8 ounces, with safety, and it’s a joy to use.
Every Remington 40-XB, before it leaves the factory, must fire three 5-shot groups at 100 yards, these not to exceed a certain accuracy standard for the cartridge being fired:
Test groups and loading data are furnished with each rifle, the targets with my rifle averaging .47″, well under the .60″ maximum average allowed. Interestingly, these groups were fired with custom made bullets, not factory! Whether this will continue now that Remington offers match grade bullets in 22 and 6mm (the Power-Lokt stuff) is moot. Note that Remington doesn’t guarantee that the user of their 40-XB rifles will obtain the same accuracy shown by their test targets, and in watching some reloaders at work I can well see why.
All 40-XBs have scope blocks attached, but some short target type scopes, at least, are too short to reach the bases. My 10x Unertl Varmint scope wouldn’t fit. The base separation is 10.6″ instead of the older 6.8″ or 7.2″ dimension, with one base on the barrel and the other on the receiver bridge. The receiver ring, also tapped, comes sans base, and would allow a 7.2″ separation. The longer target scopes present no problem, of course. The 10.6″ separation has an advantage; it takes 6 clicks instead of 4 to equal 1 MOA (1″ at 100 yards), giving more precise impact adjustment.
The walnut stock is of target type, the wood plain and straight grained for strength. Barrel and action are hand-bedded, with the barrel free-floating. A barrel bedding device at the front end of the stock controls tension between barrel and fore-end, and can also be used with electrical bedding devices. The underside of the stock has a rail inletted flush with the wood, permitting adjustment of the attached front swivel and handstop, designed for target shooters. The handstop is easily removed for field or bench shooting.
The Cartridge
Some of the bullets and powders used by Horton in testing. Speer’s Loading Manual provided basic handload data.
The 6mm Rem. is nothing more than the 244 Rem., given a new name, different bullet weight and a change in barrel twist. To go a little farther back, the 244 came from the 257 Roberts, which first saw the light of day using the old tried-and-true 7×57mm Mauser case. The bullet diameter is hardly new either, as it dates back many years, both here and abroad. You never heard of the 6mm Lee Straight Pull rifle?
The 244 Rem. and the 243 Win. came out about the same time, but the 244 lost the race rather early when it was found that the twist used, 1–12″, wouldn’t stabilize bullets of 100 grains or heavier if spitzer pointed. The 244 was first loaded with 75- and 90-gr. bullets while the 243 was available with 80- and 100-grainers. With the 243’s 1–10″ twist no troubles were had with 100-gr. sharp pointed bullets. Remington had looked on the 244 as mainly a varmint cartridge, but the public found the 243 a pretty good deer cartridge, so much so that 250–3000 and 257 Roberts sales hit rock bottom as a result. Regrettable, too, for both loads make darned fine cart ridges when reloaded.
Remington finally saw the light and changed the twist of the 244 to 1–10″, but for some reason they never did say much when this was done. Probably too late to do much good anyway. With the introduction of the Remington 700 rifles a “new” cartridge, the 6mm Remington, also made its appearance. There are no specification differences between the 244 and the 6mm Rem., but reloaders should reduce the 244 charges a bit before using them in the 6mm Rem., if only because of the faster twist of the latter.
6mm cartridges were originally loaded only with 100-gr. bullets, but late in 1965 an 80-gr. loading was announced. Pleasing news to the non-reloading varmint hunters.
Sighting Equipment
Because my Unertl wouldn’t work. I snapped up a B&L 6–24x scope when it was offered at an attractive price. It does add to the weight and bulk of the rifle no little bit, but then this isn’t a rifle anyone would want to carry in the field for any great distance.
This B&L variable is a great work of art, and optically won’t take a backseat to anything, but there is room for improvement, mainly in the method of adjusting parallax. The Parallax Adjustment Selector Ring, as B&L calls it, moves the objective (front) lens elements back and forth. The higher the power setting the more precise this adjustment must be. If one makes an adjustment at low power and the scope is then zoomed to high power it will be out of focus, so always adjust for parallax at the maximum power setting you intend using.
The variable-power aspects of this B&L scope give it advantages over fixed power scopes. You can, for example, seemingly dial away mirage by lowering the power setting. The mirage is still there but it isn’t as noticeable. The glass can also be used as a spotting scope.
Reloading
Before the rifle arrived several different makes and weights of 6mm bullets were ordered, along with 100 unprimed cases, 40 factory loads with 100-gr. bullets, and a set of RCBS neck sizing dies. In a rifle mainly to be used for target work there isn’t much sense in getting a full length sizing die. Resizing is also easier, as only the neck is worked. As of now some cases have been reloaded 20 times and still slip easily into the chamber.
The unprimed cases were first trimmed lightly on a Forster trimmer to make the mouths smooth and even — most looked as if they had been factory trimmed with a dull hacksaw, one with several teeth missing! This seems to be a common situation with all makes of primed and unprimed brass, not an exception. All cases were chamfered, then primed with Remington large rifle primers. Alcan primers were also used later, but my shooting could detect no difference between the two, which speaks rather highly for a newcomer to the rifle and pistol primer field.
All loads were assembled on a Hollywood Senior Turret Tool, a product I can’t praise enough. Workmanship is top notch, as it is on all Hollywood tools, something that seems to be disappearing from the American scene. A Hollywood micrometer powder measure was also used throughout, and it performed without a hitch. No loads were weighed, though the measure was first set using the big Ohaus scales, a fine machine but rather too large and bulky to take afield.
The Remington 40-XB centerfire rifle as factory delivered. It is made in two barrel weights and twelve calibers, from 222 to 30–338, all with guaranteed accuracy levels. Trigger pull is easily adjusted on the 40-XB by means of an Allen wrench, making removal of barreled action from stock unnecessary. Standard trigger was set at 8 ozs. for test shooting. A 2-oz. trigger is available at extra cost.
Bullets
6mm bullets are available in a large array of types and weights. 60, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 100 and 105 grain sizes, and hollow point, spitzer, semi-pointed and round-nosed, in flat and boat-tail design, are offered. All point and base types aren’t available in every weight, of course.
Aside from the new Remington Power-Lokt bullets, there are no factory 6mm match grade bullets on sale. Gardiner of Rockford, Ill., now specializes in 6mm bullets, match and hunting types, and Col. Hollidge is well known for his match bullets, 6mm as well as 224, etc.
My 40-XB was factory tested with Crawford Hollidge (Marstons Mills, Mass.) bullets, so a supply of these was ordered. These are soft swaged, hollow pointed and run about 70 grains. Later on some heavier Hollidge bullets were also purchased.
Shooting
My first groups were fired, after sighting in, with factory 100-grain ammunition. It would be a gross understatement to say that accuracy left something to be desired, for the last three 5-shot groups averaged about 1½”.
However, as it was about 15 months since I had done any serious rifle shooting I laid part of the blame on being out of practice. Such didn’t prove to be the whole case though, because after I had become used to the rifle and shooting from a bench again, groups with the other box of factory loads didn’t improve much, going about 13⁄8″ average for four groups.
After all cases had been fire-formed I began loading and shooting in earnest.
Without a doubt the best shooting load was the one used at the factory for testing accuracy, i.e., 40.5 grains 4064 and the 70-gr. Hollidge soft swaged bullets. This load averaged .380″ for a series of groups.
It became apparent that the lighter weight bullets were the shooters, because for the most part anything over 75 grains didn’t perform well. Also that 4064, combined with light bullets, gave the best accuracy.
I like boat-tail bullets, but the Sierra 85-gr. BT just won’t shoot in this 40-XB, groups running around 1″-1¼”.
Remington has two new 6mm bullets on the market — on the market if you can find them, that is! One is a hunting type, the other target style, both 80 grains.
So far the only one that I have had a chance to shoot has been the hunting bullet. This is rather odd looking in that it could, in all truthfulness, be called a full metal-jacketed hollow point, with a dimpled bottom! How does that grab you?
The nose of the jacket is folded over and in and, looking closely, you’ll see 5 cuts in the nose for quick expansion. Do they shoot? You’re darned right they do. The first load, using 40 grains of 4320, gave a 1⁄2″ group. Going up and down (very little up, though) in ½-gr. jumps neither hurt nor helped group diameter. With its small diameter hollow point, this should be a flat-shooting bullet.
The Norma 75-gr. HP bullet shoots well too, though not quite as good as the Remington. 40 grains of Norma’s No. 203 gave an average of about 3⁄4″, and I finally settled on the Norma recommendation of 42.3 grains of 203, with groups wavering between 5⁄8″ and 11⁄16″.
Of interest to me was the velocity consistency of the various loads. Some were markedly better than others. Lowest variation came with the 80-gr. Remington bullet ahead of 40 grains of 4320 — a mere 11 fs. 35 grains of 3031 with the 80-gr. Speer was almost as good, 19 fs. Least consistent was the load using the lightweight 60-gr. Sierra — 89 fs. Remington’s factory load varied only 30 fs, good results with machine-loaded ammo.
Odds & Ends
I could have decreased the 40-XB groups, I imagine, by sorting cases for uniform capacity, checking bullets to see that they weren’t out of round, and other tricks of the trade that the serious benchrest shooter has up his sleeve. However, I was more concerned with doing things as the average reloader would — loading good ammunition without being a perfectionist about it. As far as the results are concerned I’m more than happy with the outcome.
One thing I did do that helped maintain bore condition was to clean the barrel with Jim Brobst’s J-B Compound after every shooting session. This is a paste-like very mild abrasive which rids the bore of any fouling. A little bit really makes the bore smooth and shiny, but it isn’t at all damaging to the bore. All traces of it, of course, must be re moved before shooting.
This article is an excerpt from The Greatest Guns of Gun Digest.
Gun Digest is the source for firearms news, pricing and guns for sale. Readers benefit from in-depth editorial expert advice, show reviews and practical how-to instructions. With your Subscription, you'll also learn about threats to your Second Amendment rights. Click here to begin your subscription to Gun Digest.
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– The evolution of varmint rifles – Trijicon's new Accupoint Tactical scope – Handloading for the .30-30 – Trends of values for rifles, shotguns and handguns – Guns for sale: Extensive classified listings
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Presentation-inscribed Metropolitan Arms Company, New York. 36-caliber; 5-shot percussion revolver with 4 1/2-inch barrel.
The hazard of fire is also ever-present. Not a few articles have been written on insurance; the subject is well covered in the James E. Serven book TheCollecting of Guns and in several American Rifleman articles. In broadest terms, antique and collectors’ firearms are not best covered under the most commonly used “Home Owners” policies.
In most circumstances under that type coverage, a maximum fixed percentage (usually 10 percent) of the total value of the policy would apply to items such as firearms. Also, a limit or maximum dollar value would be set for any one piece, coverage generally applies only to guns actually on the premises and claims most often are paid on an actual cash or cost basis or even according to replacement cost less depreciation.
Highly ornate Colt single-action 45-caliber revolver covered with cattle brand motifs by the well-known engraver Cole Agee. Chrome-plated finish (as occasionally seen on handguns used in films) with silver-mounted ivory grips. (As illustrated in The Peacemakers; Arms and Adventure in the American West, courtesy of the author)
Establishing some of these factors often entails considerable administrative as well as emotional problems after a loss has occurred. Special waivers and riders can cover some contingencies, but experience has shown that collectors rarely bother to adequately investigate their coverage for antique and collectors’ guns under a Home Owner’s policy.
The result is very much a case of closing the barn door after the horse has gone. One of the best and broadest types of coverage for antique and collectors’ firearms is under policies known as “Fine Arts Floaters.” Any good, knowledgeable insurance agent will be familiar with them. A number of attractive plans are even offered by some of the larger collecting organizations.
The key feature of the Fine Arts policy is the fact that each and every gun in the collection is itemized and valued and kept on record with the insurance company and agent. These policies normally have provisions allowing for coverage even when the guns are on exhibit at a show and in transit. Should a loss occur, settlements are normally quicker and are generally for the amount on the scheduled list.
It is, of course, quite necessary to continually update the schedule as prices change, or as items are bought or sold. Coverage under Fine Arts policies has not only been found to be broad in scope, but often features advantageous rates. They are well worth investigating.
Large Civil War-era Starr Arms Company, New York, single-action Model 1863 percussion 44-caliber revolver; an example of very earliest production with extremely low serial #15; entirely unmarked and with a distinct civilian-type blued finish (versus the less brilliant, somewhat duller, most often encountered military blued finish). Checkered one-piece ivory grips. Cased in original factory walnut box with red velvet compartment type lining, and original accessories and literature. Note: The great bulk of production of Starr revolvers was acquired by U.S. Army for military issuance during the Civil War.
APPRAISALS Professional appraisals are often important in establishing values for antique and collectors’ guns. Such evaluations are specified requirements for some insurance policies, for any estate and gift tax purposes, for tax plans of various types and damage and loss claims. They play an important role in determining originality of a collector’s item, by supplying a professional opinion in writing.
The key to acceptability of the values or opinions stated in an appraisal by the party to whom they are submitted are the credentials and background of the appraiser. It is a simple matter to find anyone with the slightest knowledge of guns and have them write an evaluation, pulling figures out of the air so to speak; all that is needed is a typewriter and paper.
However, the collector should well understand and remember that those evaluations are subject to review by quite a few official parties before acceptability and that one of the major features scrutinized is the credentials of the appraiser; his experience within the field of guns (not merely a general antiques appraiser) and his reputation are principal factors.
Major appraisers associations are able to furnish lists of recognized experts whose specialty is firearms. A number of well-known dealers in the antique arms field are quite well qualified and handle evaluations as part of their normal business routine. Appraisal fees vary considerably and are dependent upon the qualifications and credentials of the appraiser, his expertise and professional affiliations, and, of course, his location.
Fees are often based upon hourly and daily rates or on a flat rate based on quantity involved. The common practice of charging a percentage of the appraised value of the item or collection is looked upon unfavorably. It is no longer in use by most major auction houses and is actually forbidden in the bylaws of some major appraisers’ associations.
The 2015 Standard Catalog of Firearms, 25th Edition is the preferred desk reference guide to the realm of antique, vintage, and modern firearms from around the world, and is now in its 25th edition with more than 26,000 listings of collectible and modern firearms. This industry-leading reference on firearms valuation and pricing has everything you need, whether you’re looking to buy, sell, or collect firearms.
These ivory-gripped examples are still striking, after more than a century since they were first manufactured. From top: six-shot 32-caliber Sprague and Marston with barrels bored from a single piece of steel; six-shot folding trigger 30-caliber pinfire with Belgian proofmarks; six-shot 32-caliber percussion pepperbox with ring trigger, maker unknown.
Firearms have been admired and coveted, not only for their usefulness, but also for their grace and beauty. Since the beginning of the 19th century, firearms makers have adorned their guns with engraving, fine woods, or special order features that set their products apart from the rest. There is no feasible way to give the collector every possible variation of the firearms presented in this book. However, in a general way, certain special factors will significantly influence the price of a firearm.
Perhaps the most recognizable special feature collectors agree affects the price of a firearm is engraving. The artistry, beauty, and intricate nature of engraving draw all collectors toward it. But, firearms engraving is a field unto itself requiring years of experience to determine proper chronological methods and the ability to identify the engraver in question. Factory engraving generally brings more of a premium than after-market engraving.
To be able to determine factory work is a difficult task, full of pitfalls. In some cases, factories like Colt and Winchester may have records to verify original factory engraving work. Whereas other manufacturers such as Parker, Remington, or Savage may not have these records. Whenever a firearm purchase is to be made with respect to an engraved gun, it is in the collector’s best interest to secure an expert opinion and/or a factory letter prior to the purchase. Engraved firearms are expensive. A mistake could cost the collector thousands of dollars; proceed with caution.
The 18th century was also a time when pistols and rifles were purchased by or given to historically important individuals. Firearms have also been an important part of significant historical events such as the Battle of the Little Bighorn or the Battle of Bull Run or some other meaningful event in our nation’s history. Many of these firearms are in museums where the public can enjoy, see and appreciate them. Others are in private collections that seldom, if ever, are offered for sale. If the collector should ever encounter one of these historically important firearms, it cannot be stressed strongly enough to secure an expert determination as to authenticity. Museum curators are perhaps the best source of information for these types of firearms. As with engraved guns, historical firearms are usually expensive, and without documentation their value is questionable.
Special features and variations are also a desirable part of firearms collecting. As with engraving, special order guns can bring a considerable premium. The Colt factory has excellent records regarding its firearms and will provide the collector with a letter of authenticity. Winchester records are not as comprehensive, but rifles made prior to 1908 may have documentation. Other firearm manufacturers either do not have records or do not provide the collector with documentation. This leaves the collector in a difficult position. Special order sights, stocks, barrel lengths, calibers, and so forth must be judged on their own merits. As with other factors, an expert should be consulted prior to purchase. Sometimes this can be difficult.
Experienced collectors, researchers, and museums will generally provide the kind of information a collector needs before purchasing a special order or unique firearm. Perhaps the best advice is for the collector to take his time.
Do not be in a hurry, and do not allow yourself to be rushed into making a decision. Learn as much as possible about the firearms you are interested in collecting or shooting. Try to keep current with prices through Gun List and this publication. Go to gun shows, not just to buy or sell, but to observe and learn. It is also helpful to join a firearms club or association. These groups have older, experienced collectors who are glad to help the beginner or veteran.
The William A. Jones Collection also contains many notable long arms. Here are three beauties (above). From top: pristine, unfired Jenks “Mule Ear” carbine; 320-caliber Smith & Wesson Revolving Rifle; brass-frame 1860 Henry repeating rifle with original cleaning rod still in butt compartment.
All grading systems are subjective. It is our task to offer the collector and dealer a measurement that most closely reflects a general consensus on condition. The system we present seems to come closest to describing a firearm in universal terms. We strongly recommend that the reader acquaint himself with this grading system before attempting to determine the correct price for a particular firearm’s condition.
Remember, in most cases condition determines price.
NIB—New in Box This category can sometimes be misleading. It means that the firearm is in its original factory carton with all of the appropriate papers. It also means the firearm is new; that it has not been fired and has no wear. This classification brings a substantial premium for both the collector and shooter.
Excellent Collector quality firearms in this condition are highly desirable. The firearm must be in at least 98 percent condition with respect to blue wear, stock or grip finish, and bore. The firearm must also be in 100 percent original factory condition without refinishing, repair, alterations or additions of any kind. Sights must be factory original as well. This grading classification includes both modern and antique (manufactured prior to 1898) firearms.
Very Good Firearms in this category are also sought after both by the collector and shooter. Modern firearms must be in working order and retain approximately 92 percent original metal and wood finish. It must be 100 percent factory original, but may have some small repairs, alterations, or non-factory additions. No refinishing is permitted in this category. Antique firearms must have 80 percent original finish with no repairs.
Good Modern firearms in this category may not be considered to be as collectible as the previous grades, but antique firearms are considered desirable. Modern firearms must retain at least 80 percent metal and wood finish, but may display evidence of old refinishing. Small repairs, alterations, or non-factory additions are sometimes encountered in this class. Factory replacement parts are permitted. The overall working condition of the firearm must be good as well as safe. The bore may exhibit wear or some corrosion, especially in antique arms. Antique firearms may be included in this category if their metal and wood finish is at least 50 percent original factory finish.
Fair Firearms in this category should be in satisfactory working order and safe to shoot. The overall metal and wood finish on the modern firearm must be at least 30 percent and antique firearms must have at least some original finish or old re-finish remaining. Repairs, alterations, nonfactory additions, and recent refinishing would all place a firearm in this classification. However, the modern firearm must be in working condition, while the antique firearm may not function. In either case the firearm must be considered safe to fire if in a working state.
Poor Neither collectors nor shooters are likely to exhibit much interest in firearms in this condition. Modern firearms are likely to retain little metal or wood finish. Pitting and rust will be seen in firearms in this category. Modern firearms may not be in working order and may not be safe to shoot. Repairs and refinishing would be necessary to restore the firearm to safe working order. Antique firearms will have no finish and will not function. In the case of modern firearms their principal value lies in spare parts. On the other hand, antique firearms in this condition may be used as “wall hangers” or as an example of an extremely rare variation or have some kind of historical significance.
This article appeared in the 2010 Standard Catalog of Firearms.
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– The AR-15 rescues a machine shop – Midwest Tactical AK-47 – Thompson/Center Hawken Review – Trends of values for rifles, shotguns and handguns – Guns for sale: Extensive classified listings
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We’ve seen prices on ammo and components rise, supply shrink, and the ever-present threat of some type of government clamp-down on firearms-related products; serious shooters, hunters and ordinary gun-owning citizens need to protect their stocks of these items. With the current political situation in mind, here are a few tips for keeping your handloads and other ammunition safe and reliable.
I am not an alarmist nor do I consider myself paranoid but with all the political insanity that is coming out of Washington I can’t see the liberals holding off on the gun issue much longer, certainly they are mad after the recent court decision on the Chicago gun ban. Actually I’m surprised, given the government-sponsored multi-faceted attack on individual and states’ rights, that some form of attack on firearms ownership has not taken place already. With the administration holding the door open in the Southwest for illegal immigration and given the number of weapons caches uncovered in the Arizona desert, I think it might be a good idea to get the house in order.
Modern primers and gun powder, if properly stored, have a nearly infinite shelf life. Indeed, even the older smokeless powders and black powder can last centuries and still be perfectly usable if they have been stored with care. I have some DuPont black powder made in 1920 that is still as potent and reliable as it was the day it was packaged and some factory ammunition from the very first days of smokeless powder that will still perform. These items have been stored with the three watchwords of care; cool, dry and dark.
By cool we mean stable temperature in the 50 to 80 degree range. Extreme high temperature can cause the deterioration of gun powders over long exposure; we’ve seen it time and again, ammo left on the dashboard and heated to extreme temperatures or frozen and re-heated. The gun won’t work without ammunition; find a place in the home where the temperature is stabilized and you have a good start on proper storage.
“Keep your powder dry” is a phrase all shooters have heard and comes from the days when flintlock firearms ruled the field; it is just as important today as it was 200 years ago. Temperature swings from very low to high and back again causes condensation within modern brass-cased cartridges and renders ammunition inert. It doesn’t take much moisture to ruin a primer (duck hunters know this) and this is one reason I usually don’t recommend the basement for ammo storage, unless some type of dehumidifier is present to balance the humidity.
Not too long ago Ralph Catron and I bought some components and loaded ammunition from a lady who had stored her deceased husband’s firearms related equipment in her basement. The brass and pulled bullets were about all we were able to salvage. Ammo or powder cans that have neoprene seals work well to keep moisture at bay for storing loaded ammo; I do not recommend removing powder from the original packing cans but storing these cans in a wooden cabinet where the temperature and humidity are regulated will guarantee usable and reliable powder for long periods of time.
While the sun is the engine that drives all life it can be the worst enemy of ammunition and gunpowder by virtue of its heating ability. I keep my ammunition in cabinets away from sun exposure for this reason. For obvious reasons don’t leave your ammo on the dashboard of the truck and if you have a window in your handloading room make sure the sun doesn’t settle on your supply of powder and primers while you’re away. Don’t discount the heating power of the sun; I have the sunburn (smallmouth trip on New River last weekend) to prove it.
There is always some noise about long term storage of ammunition (and firearms) against some perceived insurrection or lawlessness and now there are on the market several storage options for those that wish to bury the evidence, so to speak, from simple cache tubes made of PVC or aluminum to sophisticated air-tight lockers that can be purged of air and pumped full of dry nitrogen.
A little common sense can go a long way in this regard; I’m reminded of the Confederate command that stored a few hundred muskets in caves in Southwest Virginia, a damp and gunmetal-unfriendly environment, for future use that were lost and later discovered in the early 1940’s, still operational and indeed in wonderful condition. The guns were heavily greased before storage, metal and wood, and stored in wooden barrels sealed with a mixture of wax and tallow. Gunpowder kegs had been stored within larger wooden barrels, also sealed with the wax/tallow, and the outside of the kegs themselves had been coated with the wax/tallow mixture. The powder was just as good as the day it was stored.
If you are going to put your ammunition away for a period of time look into the military surplus ammo cans with the neoprene seal rings, these work great if they are kept in a dry environment and protected from sudden swings in temperature. The military powder cans that have the same rubber seal rings (I use one to store my turkey calls) also work great, but don’t hold a heck of a lot.
I still like the good old heavy wooden cabinet, with proper locks, for ammo storage and for Pete’s sake, make sure you label your ammo when you put it away. If you’re like me, the memory isn’t what it used to be; and if you decide to bury your guns and ammo, just send me the map, I’ll look after it for you.
The scale must be on a rock steady table. A table that wiggles just isn’t going to cut it. If your bench doesn’t have adjustable feet, place shims under the legs. Remember to protect your scale by taking it off the bench before hammering any shims into place.
Even if the table doesn't wiggle, vibrations through the table can effect measurements. If possible, move the scale to a separate table that is isolated from the press vibrations. If that is not possible, make sure that you aren’t doing anything else while weighing. The press may not be the only source of vibrations. I've seen more than one or two reloading benches sharing a room with the clothes washer and dryer.
The wife doing laundry while you are dialing in a powder weight is not a good idea. Just how you go about getting her cooperation on this is a whole other can of worms! Analytical labs place their scales on heavy marble or granite tables. The mass of the stone slab absorbs vibration. But these are too large and expensive for the average reloading bench.
I’ve also seen anti-vibration foam pads that you place under your scale to absorb vibrations. Before you buy one, just try an old mouse pad and see if it helps. I took both concepts, combined them, and designed my own anti-vibration pad. I took a brick, set it on an old mouse pad and placed my scale on top. It works and costs practically nothing.
Tip #2: Leveling
I originally thought this would be the first and most critical step of this list. As it turns out, leveling is not as critical as I would have thought with modern electronic powder scales. Many don’t even have adjustable leveling feet, just three or four fixed feet.
If your bench is level enough that bullets aren’t constantly rolling off the edge, it is probably okay. But if you needed to shim the feet to make the bench stop rocking in Tip #1, you may as well take the time to level it while you are there. If you do want to check that your scale is level, buy a small bubble level that you can place directly on the weighing pan. Make sure it is the right size to rest flat on the pan and that it doesn’t weigh more than your scale’s capacity. I bought a lightweight, plastic bubble level at Home Depot for less than three dollars. Leave the scale turned off while leveling.
Tip #3: Batteries and AC Power
A weak battery can make an electronic powder scale give erroneous readings long before it ever goes dead or gives a low battery warning. I load a fresh battery in my scale every six months or so and use the old battery for some other less critical application. Buy a good quality battery. This is not the place to use a cheap batter.
Most plastic pans that I’ve used leave much to be desired. Fortunately there are alternatives.
Don’t substitute one of the new lithium batteries if the recommended battery is an alkaline. This could actually damage the scale’s electronics if not designed for it. Additionally, the low battery indicator circuit is calibrated for the specific battery type. It may not warn you when the battery is low if you use something other than the recommended type. Check the instructions for the recommended battery type.
If nothing is mentioned, you should use the same type of battery that it came with. Of course, you can always call the manufacturer and ask them what battery type they recommend. If your scale came with an AC Adapter, by all means use it. It will allow you to leave the scale on for extended periods without worrying about the battery going dead in the middle of a reloading session. However, you should be aware that the inexpensive “wall wart” powder adapters are not “regulated” and can pass on any line voltage fluctuations to your scale resulting in instability. If your scale is acting unstable and you are using the power adapter, try running off batteries (use fresh batteries please) and see if it improves.
Tip #4: Warm-up time
Warm-up time can affect the scale's measurement stability. Some scales can take as long as 30 minutes to warm up to a stable internal temperature, especially if the room is unusually cold. With an AC powdered scale, you can just leave it on while you are making other preparations. If your scale has an Auto-Off feature, you may need to disable it or set it for a longer time if possible.
Battery powered scales may not allow long warm-up periods especially if it is one that drains batteries quickly. In that case, allow 30 to 60 seconds warm up time, keep the room temperature as stable as possible before starting a reloading session and use the zero button before every weight measurement.
Tip #5: Calibration
Those check weights that come with most scales aren't just for looks. Use them! I check my scale calibration every time I set up for a reloading session. It is a good way to tell if your scale has warmed up and is ready to use. You should also check calibration if the scale has been moved (like to your shooting buddy’s house), is being operating at a significantly different temperature than when it was last calibrated, and after you change the battery.
If you just bought a new scale, checking the calibration is the first thing you should do before using the scale. Perform the calibration procedure as described in the owner’s manual only if the calibration is off. But before deciding to perform calibration, make absolutely certain the scale has had a chance to warm up and the readings are stable. You may find that after sufficient warm up time, calibration will not be needed.
Always use the calibration weight(s) that came with your scale. Depending on the resolution of the scale, the “class” of calibration weight(s) that come with it will vary. In the United States, three classifications are used:
– ASTM E 617-97, Classes 0 through 7 – OIML R111, classes: E1, E2, F1, F2, M1, M2, M3. – NIST Class F; (Only used for commercial weights & measures testing)
A 50g Class 6 calibration weight can vary by as much as ±7mg (±0.007g / ±0.107grain) and a 100g calibration weight can very by as much as ±10mg (±0.010g / ±0.154grain). That doesn’t sound like much but when you are calibrating your scale, it can make a significant difference if you use the calibration weight from another scale.
No serious reloader should be without a copy of the ABCs of Reloading. Click here to get yours.
Scales with higher resolution typically require a calibration weight with tighter specifications. For instance, the UniqueTek High-Precision Electronic Powder Scale, which has a resolution of 0.02 grains (0.001g), comes with a 20g calibration weight rated Class F2 (OIML Class F2 fits in between ASTM Class 3 and Class 4). For a 20g calibration weight, the allowable tolerance is only 0.8mg (0.0008g) compared to a Class 6 tolerance of 3.0mg (0.003g). If I substituted a 20g calibration weight from another scale that was not made to meet the Class F2 standard, my calibration could be off.
So why not just buy a calibration weight set made to tighter tolerances? In short, cost! I was given a set of calibration weights made by Ohaus. They are brass weights rated Class 6 and sold for about $40.00. The cost of calibration weight sets with tighter tolerance is excessive, especially if you want a set that comes with a certificate documenting the exact value of each calibration weight! Here are some examples:
– Class 6 brass = $40.00 / $139.00 with Certificate – Class 4 stainless steel = $320.00 / $815.00 with Certificate – Class 1 stainless steel = $600.00 / $1225.00 with Certificate
To make things even more difficult, some calibration weights are 2-piece assemblies. They are hollow and have either a plug in the bottom or a handle that is screwed on top. These are purposely manufactured a bit light and then grains of metal are added to calibrate it to the correct mass. If the plug falls out or the handle comes unscrewed and you loose the grains of metal from the inside, your calibration weight is worthless.
Fortunately you can buy individual calibration weights. So if your scale came with a 2-piece calibration weight and it came apart, buy a replacement. I recommend that you contact your scale manufacturer and determine the correct size and tolerance classification of calibration weight for your scale. You can usually buy replacement calibration weights directly from the scale manufacturer.
Tip #6: Air Currents
Some electronic scales come with a cover. On some of these, the cover isn't just to keep dust off when not in use. Some covers are designed to be used during measurements and provide a valuable function by blocking air currents that can affect accuracy (the owners manual will tell you if your cover is intended to be closed during measurements). You can identify covers that are designed to be closed during measurement as they may have a hole in the top. The hole allows you to add powder with the lid already down.
As you can imagine, closing or opening the cover after placing a pan of powder on the scale will likely upset the measurement. A few scales come with a “draft ring,” which is usually a glass ring that fits around the weighing pan to protect it from air currents. Make certain it is in place for all measurements Even if your scale has a draft ring or a cover designed for use during measurements, make sure it is located away from air currents in the room. Or, better yet, make a draft shield on three sides. I made one out of mat board (the stuff on which artists mount photographs).
It is rigid, easy to cut with a utility or X-ACTO® knife, finished on both sides and available in lots of interesting colors. It is cheap and can be found at art & craft stores or office supply stores. Make it tall enough to extend at least 3 inches above the weighing pan. Adding a draft shield may not be enough. I had an air conditioning vent that blew in the direction of the reloading bench and the draft shield just didn't help enough. I finally found an inexpensive plastic deflector at the local hardware store that attached to the face of the wall vent and deflected the airflow away from the reloading bench. Simple, elegant, cheap …. and it worked!
Tip #7: Static Electricity & Magnetic Fields
Static electricity near an electronic scale can affect measurement accuracy just as much as a stray air current. Always use a powder pan made from metal or from static dissipative plastic (e.g. the Lyman Powder Pal™ or RCBS Scale Pan/Powder Funnel). PACT recommends washing their powder pan occasionally with soapy water and allowing the soap film to dry on the pan. The soap film helps dissipate static electricity.
Keep any plastic materials away from the scale, including plastic loading blocks, die storage boxes, ammunition storage boxes, AkroBins and anything made of Styrofoam or vinyl. Keeping a clear space around the scale is generally a good practice anyway. Don't forget the static on your body! Even though the days of the polyester leisure suit are (thankfully) long gone, you may have carpet under your reloading bench.
I'm sure we've all scuffed our shoes across a carpet and then zapped some poor unsuspecting soul with a big arc of static electricity. A static spark to electronic powder scale is not only bad for accuracy; it can destroy the scale’s circuits! Even if you don't build enough charge to cause a spark, you can build enough charge to affect your powder scale’s accuracy.
Fortunately, little anti-static laundry spray (Static Guard) applied to the carpet periodically is very effective. Touching a grounded metal object once in a while will also remove any charge from your body. Scales can also be strongly affected by magnetic fields and electrical interference generated by electronic devices. Don't use a scale near any electronic device such as a computer, monitor, radio, or cell phone. Fluorescent lights can also generate interference. If you are experiencing a problem with your scale, test it with nearby electronics and lights turned off.
Tip #8: Checking Zero
Use that zero (or “tare”) button … frequently! I always zero the scale immediately before every measurement. Some may feel this is overkill, but I feel it is worth the few extra seconds it takes to ensure the best measurement accuracy I can obtain from my scale.
While we are discussing the Tare button, let’s look at just how handy this feature can be. The most basic use is to “tare” the weight of your powder pan so the scale reads 0.0 grains with the empty pan in place and the scale will display the weight of just the powder charge. This same technique can also be used for sorting bullets, cartridge cases or even loaded cartridges.
Example 1: Lets say you want to sort a new batch of bullets by weight relative to a favorite bullet weight you know from a previous test is ideal for your cartridge. If you were smart, you would keep a sample bullet from that earlier batch that is the ideal weight. Keep it wrapped in a piece of soft cloth and in a small bottle with a label on the outside noting the manufacture, type and weight and anything else you want to record. 1. Press Tare to zero the scale. 2. Place the example bullet on the scale and check that it weighs what you expect. 3. With the example bullet still on the scale, press tare to zero the scale then remove the example bullet. 4. Start weighing bullets from the new batch. Bullets that are an exact match will weigh 0.0 grains. Sort the bullets into weight groups depending on how close you need them to be to the example bullet weight.
Example 2: If you have a sneaking suspicion that you may have double charged or not charged a cartridge, just tare the weight of a known good cartridge and then start weighing the suspect cartridges. All the good cartridges should weight 0.0 grains (or very close too it). So all you need to do is look for one that weighs too much or too little by the weight of the powder charge. This greatly speeds up the inspection process!
Place the load (powder pan, bullet, calibration weight, etc,) at the center of the weighing platform. An off center load may cause binding of the load cell resulting in error. Some powder scales have a cup shaped platform that automatically centers the powder pan. But if you are weighing a bullet, loaded cartridge or some other odd-shaped object, try to center it as best as possible.
Tip #10: Cleanliness
Keep your scale clean. Dust and stray powder grains getting into the load cell can bind the mechanism. If your scale comes with a cover, keep it closed when you are not using the scale. The weighing platform can be removed on some scales so you can easily clean underneath. A soft artist’s paintbrush or a gentle puff of air is about all that should be needed to clean it.
Whatever you do, don't flip your scale over and shake it to dislodge dust and powder grains. Shaking could permanently damage the load cell! I keep a can of compressed air at my reloading bench. It is handy for blowing powder grains off the powder scale, as well as off the press, and doesn’t blow with enough force to damage anything. Don’t forget to clean your powder pan.
Over time, a film of powder residue can build up on the powder pan. This can cause powder grains to stick to the pan, and not be transferred to the cartridge case. This is often misinterpreted as static cling and most frequently treated by rubbing the pan with an anti-static clothes drier sheet. Repeated use of drier sheets may also leave residue buildup. Residue buildup happens with both metal and plastic powder pans.
The cure is simple. Just wash the powder pan with a drop of liquid dish soap, rinse thoroughly and let dry. Do not use abrasive soaps or scouring pads. The resulting scratches can cause powder grains to cling.
Tip #11: Powder Pans
The powder pan you use can make a difference too. If the all the powder doesn’t make it into the cartridge, then all your efforts to this point are in vain. My favorite powder pans are the metal pans that commonly come with balance beam type scales (e.g. Dillon Eliminator: Redding No.2 and RS-1; RCBS® Models 502, 505 and 1010; LEE Safety Scale™; Lyman® Pro 500 and Pro 1000; etc.).
Metal powder pans have a few advantages over plastic pans. 1. They don’t hold a static charge 2. They tend to need cleaning less frequently (see Tip #10) 3. Powder grains tend to slide off quite easily 4. They are usually a shiny gold or bare aluminum color, so you can easily see that all powder grains have been transferred to the cartridge case. The gold or silver color also makes inspecting powder grain structure easy. Plastic pans are usually black, and inspecting dull gray particles against a black background is difficult.
If you ever lose your metal powder pan, they can be difficult to find and expensive. And it is highly recommended that you find the same pan that originally came with your balance beam scale. The hanger support is designed to fit the pan exactly, and a pan from another scale probably won’t fit correctly. Your best bet is to call the manufacturer and get the pan that originally came with your scale.
If that isn’t possible, try to get the pan and hanger from another scale. Most electronic powder scales come with plastic powder pans (Lyman is one exception). Most plastic pans that I’ve used leave much to be desired. Fortunately there are alternatives. If you have an old balance beam scale packed away, just use the metal pan. If you don’t happen to have a metal powder pan, the best plastic powder pans I’ve found are:
– Lyman® Powder Pal™ – RCBS® Scale Pan/Funnel
Both are made of anti-static plastic and have a unique feature of combining a scale pan with a powder funnel. I think that the RCBS product has a slight advantage because it also has a conventional pour spout. But either one will serve you well.
The best part is that they cost around $7 (versus $16-$20 for a metal pan). One caveat … they are not recommended for use on a balance beam scale. Not sure just why that is, but it is most likely because the scale “zero” adjustment may not have enough range to adjust for the difference in weight between the metal and plastic pans. The plastic powder pan is also unlikely to fit the hanger.
If your scale has a cover that is to be closed during weighing, make sure that any pan you choose fits under the cover with plenty of clearance! The Lyman® and RCBS® pans have a much taller profile and may not fit. Likewise, if you have an electronic scale that has an integrated (or connects to) an auto-trickling mechanism, you must make certain that any replacement pan doesn’t interfere with the trickling.
Tip #12: How Not to Break the Load Cell in Your Powder Scale
The “Load Cell” is the heart of every electronic scale. Lower priced scales usually use a strain gauge type load cell. Strain gauge load cells in particular, can be easily damaged if handled roughly.
– Never leave a load on a scale for an extended period of time as this can damage the load cell. – Never place more weight on a scale than its uppermost limit. Overloading the scale can damage the load cell. Don’t forget that the scale’s weight limit includes any “tare” weight. For instance, if your scale has a 500 grain maximum capacity and you “tare” the scale (zero) with a powder pan that weighs 100 grains, the remaining capacity is now only 400 grains. Even though the scale reads zero, if you place a 500 grain weight on the scale, you will overload the scale. – Never drop anything on the weighing pan. Always place the load or calibration weight gently onto the scale. Dropping weight on the scale can damage the load cell, even if the weight is well below the scale’s uppermost limit. If you ever do accidentally overload your scale, try recalibrating it. If the damage is slight, you may be able to save the scale.
Tip #13: Read Your Owner’s Manual
The owner’s manual for your scale is full of useful information specific to your scale. It may not be as exciting as a Tom Clancy techno-thriller, but it is worth reading.
A Final Word
These tips will get you a head start on accurate powder weighing and, hopefully, save you a few of the lessons I learned the hard way.
This article courtesy of: UniqueTek, Inc. 574 E. Alamo Drive, Suite 60 Chandler, AZ 85225 Ph: 480-507-0866 Fax: 480-507-0867
As the Reno Journal-Gazette reported, “Frank Adams, executive director of the Nevada Sheriffs and Chiefs Association, said…that the group supports exempting the names of people who hold concealed carry weapons permits from Nevada’s open records law. He said the association will back a bill to do that in the 2011 Legislature.”
“We’re working on making everything in CCW confidential,” Adams explained. “I advise (permit holders) to get hold of your lawmakers and support that.”
This past June, the Nevada Supreme Court ruled, “that while individual applications for permits are confidential, the names of permit holders are public record. The court was responding to a Reno Gazette-Journal request for information about CCW permits related to a story about Republican Gov. Jim Gibbons.”
Journal-Gazette editors have said they would never publish the names of permit holders. Yet there was nothing in the Nevada Supreme Court’s ruling which would prohibit the newspaper or any other publication from doing so.
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 excellent concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
