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Smith & Wesson M&P: 8 Tips for a Better Trigger

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Team S&W Shooter Julie Golowski using a 9mm M&P at the 2006 Production Nationals
Team S&W Shooter Julie Golowski using a 9mm M&P at the 2006 Production Nationals

I am an avid USPSA shooter. I was turned off by the technology race and began shooting and ended up spending alot of money building Limited pistols!

In recent years, such mundane matters as putting my daughter through college and graduate school, needing a new car and – groan! – buying a house, have put a severe crimp in my “fun funds.” Because of this I began looking for a less expensive means of pursuing my favorite sport. Enter Production Division … USPSA created Production Division for those persons who wanted to compete with basically factory, stock (read, “inexpensive”) pistols.

Besides restricting magazine capacity to 10 rounds, there are strict limitations as to what modifications can be made to the pistol (e.g.: internal polishing and detailing of parts, changing the sights,etc.) and the rules mandated that only pistols using DA/SA, DAO or Safe Action type triggers were permitted. Unlike Open, Limited and Limited Ten divisions, Production did away with the Major/Minor power factor (P.F.) controversy for ammunition by specifying that only Minor P.F. was needed to compete.

This had the result of making the readily available, and inexpensive, 9mm Parabellum cartridge the overwhelming choice among Production shooters. Over the past few years I have used several different pistols in Production division and, while all have proven suitable for the sport, most lacked that “something” that I considered necessary for competition.

Last year I obtained a 9mm Smith & Wesson M&P pistol which, until recently, spent most of its time as my “night stand” gun. The M&P is Smith’s newest addition to their extensive line of semi-auto pistols and is possibly the best one they have produced so far.

Since its introduction, the M&P has been examined extensively in gun magazines and I don’t feel it is necessary to repeat the technical nitty-gritty here. Suffice it to say that the M&P is a polymer framed pistol that uses integral steel rails to strengthen the frame and provide rigidity that improves accuracy and functional reliability. It features a double-action-only (DAO) type trigger, multiple internal safety devices, accepts high-capacity magazines and features an ergonomically-shaped grip with interchangeable inserts (S&W calls them “palm swells”) that allow the shooter to fit the pistol to their particular hand size.

Interchangeable "palm swells" are offered for the M&P to custom fit to your hand.
Interchangeable “palm swells” are offered for the M&P to custom fit to your hand.

It is available in 9mm Para, 357 SIG, 40 S&W and 45 ACP, in both standard and compact versions. I found my M&P a very shootable pistol and, as these things tend to happen, began ruminating upon the idea of using it in competition. With this in mind, I approached my good friend, fellow action pistol shooter, and part time gunsmith, Lin Webb. Lin has built several competition pistols for me and when I asked him if he could work his magic on the M&P he responded rather guardedly “Well…I haven’t done a trigger job on one of them before and, as far as I know, neither has anyone else. I guess someone has to be the first? Leave it with me.”

I did. After some time had passed, Lin called and told me “I think I’ve figured out how to smooth out the trigger and get the let-off a bit lighter.” The following month, a rather cryptic e-mail arrived from my erstwhile ‘smithin forming me that “….I believe it will work. I’m almost done.”

A few weeks later a follow-up message arrived “Yup, it works. I’ve taken first place Production with it in two matches so far. You’re not going to believe the trigger!”

Smoothing Out the M&P Trigger

Needless to say, my anxiety level was steadily rising and I could not wait to get my hands on my M&P. I asked Lin if he would tell the readers in his own words how he accomplished this. No one has ever been able to accuse him of being the taciturn type, so he elaborated thus:

My M&P employs a HiViv Front Sight
The HiViz front sight has the fiber optic rod encased in high-impact polymer to protect it from damage. Its brightness greatly enhances fast target acquisition and accuracy.

1 Make sure the pistol is unloaded and remove any and all ammo from the same area as the pistol you are working on.
1.1 Make dad-gum sure the gun is unloaded, with no ammo in the same area you are working in.

2 The M&P, like any other semi-auto on the market today, has’ way too much take-up and overtravel as it comes from the factory. Remove the slide, and pull the trigger to the rear and note where the trigger bar engages the sear. If your pistol has the magazine safety, you must hold the mag safety lever up to see this function, so you may as well insert an empty magazine so you’ll only need two hands instead of three.

If your gun does not have the mag safety lever, you must pull the sear deactivation lever back up in order to see the trigger bar move in its normal operating position. Just be sure to return the deactivation lever to the ‘down’ position before reassembly.

3 Once you’ve got it in your head where and how the trigger bar contacts the sear, proceed to remove the sear housing block. Use the correct size pin punch or roll pin punch and remove the pin from the frame. Be sure to support the frame from the bottom so the pin can clear the frame as it is driven out.

The pin can be removed from either direction. Then lift the sear housing out of the frame. You can use the same punch you used to remove the pin to pry the sear housing block out of the frame. When you get the sear housing about half-way up, pull the trigger to the rear to take tension off the trigger bar. Continue to lift upon the sear housing, and then it will slide right off the rear of the trigger bar. On older model M&Ps, the ejector will practically fall off the side of the sear housing. This is OK, but on newer models, it will be staked on pretty tightly, so don’t bother to remove it.

4 Locate the sear pin, and push it out. It will come out easily and from either direction. Be sure to keep the sear housing in the upright position as you remove the pin, and then remove the sear itself. Again, be sure to keep the housing upright so the sear spring and plunger stay in place because if they fall out, they are a pain to get back in. Use a small piece of leather or wood to clamp the sear in a small vise. Make sure the contact point with the trigger bar is facing up. Using a small fine cut mill file, start cutting the rounded portion of the sear where the trigger bar makes contact. Cut SLOWLY at a 45-degree angle, and remove about 20 percent of this contact point. Finish with a fine cut stone to polish the surface, and then finish by slightly rounding the edges for a smooth “compound” type finish. Then polish the trigger bar where it contacts the sear to a fine mirror-like finish. Remember to go slowly, and don’t remove any metal from the trigger bar, just polish only. You might want to put the gun back together at this point to test it out to see where you are.

Just this little bit of work will greatly improve the pull.

Top view of the M&P extractor5 For a further reduced trigger pull weight, remove the sear again and look at the rear of the sear. You’ll see a hump where the sear engages the striker and pulls it to the rear during trigger pull. Polish the rear of the sear with a polishing wheel, and also the top flat portion of the sear where the tang of the striker rides across during re-set. Be sure to keep the two surfaces at right angles to each other. In other words, don’t round off this edge. Keep it at 90 degrees to eachother. Polishing with an aggressive jeweler’s polishing compound works quite well.

You can also use a Dremel polishing wheel to speed this process, but go slowly. This will remove metal faster than you think.You can remove the striker now and polish the tang of the striker where it makes contact with the sear. Polish only here, DO NOT remove any metal. To remove the striker, push down on the striker sleeve, just like brand “G” and push the end cap off, while holding your thumb over the striker to keep it from flying into the next room, and remove the striker.

6 To remove the “crunchiness” from the trigger pull, now is the time to do this while the striker is removed. Wrap the slide in several wraps of cloth or use a large piece of leather, and clamp it in a vise with just the rear sight area clear of the vise jaws. Loosen the set screw in the rear sight.

Using a brass drift punch, tap the rear sight out from left to right. Don’t be afraid to whack it, as some rear sights are tough to remove. Nylon punches give too much, and steel punches will mar the sight. Use a brass punch with nice square edges. If yours is not, straighten it up with a file first. When the sight is almost out, look for the firing pin safety block spring cap and spring underneath the rear sight. Hold your finger over this cap as you continue to tap the sight out.

Hold onto to the cap to keep it from flying into the next county. Remember, the striker must be OUT of the gun to be able to do this. Remove the firing pin safety block from the frame.

7 Using a 3/32” pin punch, place the firing pin safety block on the end of the punch. Hold the firing pin block at a 45-degree angle to a 3M polishing wheel and polish the head of the safety block but do not remove any metal from these two areas of the trigger bar. Clean the hole where the firing pin block goes and lube it with a good quality gun lube. Put the firing pin block back in, along with the small spring.

Start the rear sight into the dovetail from right to left. Place the spring cap on top of the spring and press it into place. While holding it there, tap the rear sight back over this assembly to hold it in place. Don’t let go until the rear sight has almost covered the cap or it will fly out. NOTE: This procedure is very tricky, but go slow and you can do it. Some rear sights are easier to get out and back in than others on the same model gun, so don’t be afraid to whack the hell out of it with a brass punch to get it to move. Brass marks can be easily removed with 0000 steel wool.

Gun Digest review of the Smith & Wesson M&P8 There is one last thing you can do for the ultimate M&P trigger job. Obtain a Glock trigger return spring and replace the stock M&P trigger spring with this spring. Be sure to place the open end of the spring on the trigger bar in the UP position. The end that goes on the trigger pin must be slightly enlarged to fit over the M&P trigger pin, but it can be done.

Use a pin punch of the proper size as a guide to align the pin hole and spring as you tap the trigger pin back in. If you have done everything as I have described it, you will have a much improved trigger pull over the stock configuration. If you shoot a lot of USPSA or IDPA matches, your scores will definitely improve. There are several M&P trigger jobs described on the Internet now, and they are very much like I have described it here, however, you must have some familiarity with the M&P to perform these modifications correctly.

It isn’t as easy as some would have you believe. I have found out that the 45-caliber M&P differs slightly from the 9mm, 40S&W, and the 357 SIG calibers. The firing pin is different, the angles on the trigger and sear are different, and pretty much everything as far as a trigger job goes is different, so take your time on the 45s. Again, go slow, and don’t remove too much. If you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself, then you will be way ahead of the game to send your gun out to some of the shops that advertise M&P trigger jobs on the Internet.

Since working on Paul’s pistol, I’ve done about two dozen M&P trigger jobs without any failure, and no safety parts violations, but they were T&E guns and they were not returned to the general shooting public. Most all of these guns broke the trigger pull gauge at around 3 pounds, and were smooth as silk.

If you feel like it, and have the confidence, give it a try. You might want to purchase a spare sear, safety block, and trigger bar from Smith & Wesson just in case you mess something up. That way you can put stock parts back in and get the gun back up and shooting again.

Getting the Pistol Back

Test Fire results for the Smith & Wesson M&PAs I make no pretense whatsoever to being technically minded, I will have to take what Lin said at face value. But I can tell you this: once I finally retrieved my M&P from Mr. Webb’s clutches, and got a chance to try it, I was most impressed. The trigger take-up was so light and smooth as to be almost unnoticeable; the let-off was a crisp 2.5 pounds while reset distance was less than a half-inch. During rapid fire drills it almost felt as if I was shooting a single-action pistol.

In fact, after getting my M&P back, the only changes I made to it were to install a HiViz fiber optic front sight and use a marker pen to blacken out the white dots on the rear sight. Aside from the trigger return spring and front sight replacement it remains a 100-percent stock pistol and thus abides by USPSA rules to the letter!

Being the M&P has fixed sights I experimented with various brands of factory and handloaded ammo and eventually settled on Cor-Bon’s 9mm 147-grain Performance Match ammunition for serious competition shooting. I have used this ammo in several pistols over the years and it has proven to be the most accurate 9mm load I have ever shot.

My handload consists of a Berry’s 147-grain plated bullet over 3.6 grains of TiteGroup. Both provide 100-percent functioning, shoot close enough to point out to 25 yards to keep me happy, produce low levels of recoil and make Minor P.F. with a bit to spare.

I also experimented with a number of holsters and mag pouches and settled on a Comp-Tac Belt Holster and Belt feed magazine pouches. The former holds the M&P at just the right height and angle for a fast acquisition and smooth draw while the latter rig holds four spare magazines in a staggered row allowing a fast, secure grip on each to ensure fast and smooth reloads. Unfortunately, I did not have an opportunity to practice very much with my M&P before the next match but, despite the trepidation I felt at competing with a pistol I had little experience with, I finished 2nd Place overall in Limited Division and 1st Place in B Class.

And while I like to think that my personal skill had a little something to do with it, a good measure of the credit must go to Lin’s excellent trigger job and the accuracy, reliability and ergonomics that were built into the M&P at the factory. The M&P has served as my regular Production pistol for several months now and my positive opinion of it continues to grow. As Humphrey Bogart said at the end of his classic film Casablanca,“….I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”

This article is an excerpt from Gun Digest 2009.

Gun Digest the Magazine August 17, 2009

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Gun Digest is the source for firearms news, pricing and guns for sale. Readers benefit from in-depth editorial expert advice, show reviews and practical how-to instructions. Subscriptions are the First Amendment way to stand up for your Second Amendment rights. Click here to begin your subscription to Gun Digest.

Inside This Issue

• If you love to pull triggers, Bryce Towsley writes, you’ll want to give this game a try with the right guns and accessories. It's called 3-gun shooting, and it's hot.

• Editor Kevin Michalowski has important info about the Colt recall. Click here to read “Editor's Shot.”

• Rifles: Wickliffe – Volquartsen
• Shotguns: Davenport – Escort
• Handguns: High Standard

• Before You Buy: The school of hard knocks

• Spent Casings: Some good teams to work with

• Weapons and Tactics: The Patriot Ordinance P415

• Loading for the .45 Colt

• Plenty of new gear for shooters

• Towsley on Target: The Brilliance of Blaser

Click here to load up on a subscription.

 

NYPD Goes After Gun Collector

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Like America's first soldiers at the Battle of Brooklyn, Michael Littlejohn is fighting for his right to bear arms.

The Revolutionary War buff charges the Bloomberg administration with tyranny for trying to seize his handmade flintlock rifle – a dead ringer for the weapon once used against the redcoats.

“This is the last legal gun that you can have without registration in New York,” Littlejohn said. “And yet Mayor Bloomberg is driven crazy by my flintlock gun – the one that won the American Revolution.”

Littlejohn fired the first shot when he hired a Tennessee blacksmith to recreate the vintage rifle. It arrived at his Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, apartment in June – followed quickly by city cops.

Police claim it's illegal for Littlejohn to keep the flintlock without a gun license.

Littlejohn, 50, cites the earliest American patriots as his inspiration while refusing to surrender his firearm or apply for a license.

The social worker is also clinging to a little-known exemption in the city's strict gun laws.

The loophole allows license-free ownership of “antique firearms” – defined as rifles that require the bullet and gunpowder to be loaded separately.

Littlejohn's rifle appears to fit the bill. Read more

Source: nydailynews.com

 

Ninth Circuit to Review Nordyke

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A federal appeals court in San Francisco set aside its ruling Wednesday – the only one of its kind in the nation – that allowed private citizens to claim a constitutional right to bear arms in challenging state and local gun laws.

The Ninth U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals ordered a new hearing on a challenge by gun show promoters to a ban on firearms at the Alameda County Fairgrounds in Pleasanton. The plaintiffs say the ban, which county supervisors enacted in 1999, violates free speech and the constitutional right to possess guns.

A three-judge panel of the court ruled in April that the Second Amendment is binding on state and local governments and allows individuals to challenge a county ordinance as a violation of the right to guns.

“The right to bear arms is deeply rooted in the history and tradition of the republic,” Judge Diarmuid O'Scannlain said in the 3-0 ruling.

But the court also said the Alameda County law was a valid public safety measure.

The gun show promoters prepared to appeal to the U.S. Supreme Court. But Wednesday, the full appeals court said a majority of its judges had called for a new hearing before an 11-judge panel, nullifying the April ruling.

Plaintiffs' lawyer Don Kilmer said the hearing has been scheduled for Sept. 21 in San Francisco.

Last year, the Supreme Court ruled for the first time that the Second Amendment protects an individual's right to own guns and struck down a ban on handgun possession in the federal enclave of Washington, D.C. That ruling did not say whether the amendment also applied to the states.

The Ninth Circuit ruling conflicted with decisions by federal appeals courts in New York and Chicago that concluded the Second Amendment applies only to the federal government.

Read more

Gun Digest Gun Rights Forum »

Getting Started in Three-Gun Shooting

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shooting at the Midwest Three-Gun Championship
Bruce Piatt shooting his shotgun during the Midwest Three-Gun Championships.

Three-gun shooting, as the name implies, features the use of handguns, rifles and shotguns. It can encompass long-range precision shooting or ultra close, “hose ‘em down” situations and everything in between, sometimes all in one stage. This sport moves fast and draws on every shooting skill you possess. The shooting is “practical” style, which means it simulates combat or self-defense. You will have a “scenario” at each stage that will have you shooting one or more of the guns in a specific sequence. Each stage is different and every match is different. This is not like skeet or bull’s-eye shooting, when you know what the target will be every time; in fact it is quite the opposite. Each time you step up to a stage it is likely that you will encounter a shooting challenge that is different from any in your past. It’s up to the shooter to figure out a strategy and hope it’s one that wins.

There are several classes and a couple of sets of rules. That leads to plenty of options for firearms, but new shooters usually start with the most popular class, Tactical Optics. This is the class that is most likely to fit with the firearms you already own. In this class the shooter is allowed one optic and it is almost universally on the rifle. The handgun and shotgun will not have optical sights.

Remember, even if you don’t have everything you need to start, if you pool with your buddies you might find that you do. You can shoot together on the same squad and share firearms. So if you have a rifle, somebody else has a handgun and another a shotgun, you can all shoot. This gets you started, but be warned, three-gun is addictive and you will find yourself buying more guns once you try it.
How can that possibly be a bad thing?

Guns That Will Get You in the Game

Rifles
Three-gun, or multi-gun as it’s called in some circles, is the domain of the AR-15 type rifles, but most any rifle meets the rules. At my first match I saw a party of three sharing the same SKS rifle and loading with 10-round stripper clips. They didn’t win, but they sure were having fun! The next time I ran into the guy who owned the SKS he had a top-of-the-line competition AR and an addiction to three-gun that had him grinning ear to ear.

Bottom line, if you have an AR-15 type rifle and a couple of 30-round magazines (and who doesn’t?) you can start shooting without a lot of limitations. Even if you do not, most any other type of semi-auto “tactical” rifle will get you in the game and allow you to get your feet wet.

shooting a competition rifle
Nathan Towsley with Bryce Towsley's DPMS competition rifle.

When you decide to build or buy a competition rifle, there are a few things that will trick out the rifle in your favor. The .223 Rem./5.56 chambering is king. A muzzle brake is very important if you are going to be competitive. You can shoot well without one, but if you are going to run with the big dogs, sooner or later you will need a muzzle brake. These help manage recoil and reduce muzzle flip for fast, repeat shooting.

The barrel length should be somewhere around 18 to 20 inches. Barrel weight is subject to personal preference, but most prefer a slightly heavy contour to put a little weight out in front and to handle the heat of multiple shots better. A 1:9 twist will work, but a 1:8 twist rate will allow you to use heavier bullets if you have some long-range reactive steel targets. A good trigger is very important.

I like a standard A2-style fixed stock, but a lot of shooters use a collapsible stock because it offers so many options on length of pull to fit different shooting positions. Use a rifle style gas tube to allow the use of a long forend. This allows you to reach out on the rifle for better control. Most shooters seem to prefer a round forend as the rail type forends will make the shooter’s hands sore by the end of the day.

Thirty-round magazines are the standard. But you will probably want at least one extended capacity magazine. There are several on the market. I have a DPMS 45-round that I use a lot. Under IDPA, and perhaps others, you must have a “stick” style magazine; drums are not allowed in the tactical class.

The best optic is a low power. The idea is that the low end magnification allows shooting at the very close targets, while the upper end magnification is enough for the long-range shots. The key here is versatility and durability. Don’t scrimp on the optics as they take a beating and only the toughest survive.

You will probably want an ambidextrous safety, also a tactical bolt catch. This is important because the shooter is often required to clear a rifle and lock the bolt back to make it safe while on the clock. This bolt catch has a big pad to push to lock the action open and keep the “fumble factor” to a minimum. If you fail to lock the bolt back, it’s an automatic disqualification in most matches. A tactical, extended charging handle helps with the reloads.

My choice for rifles is DPMS and they have a provision on line to customize your rifle to any configuration you wish. (800) 578-3767 www.dpmsinc.com.

Shotguns
If you already have a semi-auto shotgun you are ready to compete. You probably will want to add an extended magazine. But, that’s easy to do and inexpensive. The 12-gauge is the most popular. Often there are reactive steel targets and it provides enough power to slap them down.

Some rules require a short barrel, so you will probably replace your bird gun barrel (or entire shotgun) with something more “tactical” down the line. The most common configuration is a semi-auto with a 20-inch to 22- inch barrel and an extended magazine that holds eight shots, for a total of a nine-shot capacity, the maximum allowed in tactical class. Eventually you will want to add extra touches like an oversize safety button and larger carrier release. Most shooters like some sort of sights for the slug stages. The key to success in many matches is being able to reload the shotgun fast, so a sidesaddle ammo carrier is almost a must.

This game is tough on a shotgun and only the strong survive. A lot of guns that have good reputations in the hunting fields can’t stand up to the thousands of shots and rough handling. One can, Benelli. That’s why I picked an M-2 for my new competition gun. www.benelliusa.com (301) 283-6981.

Handguns
You can shoot with any semi-auto centerfire handgun and get started. I shot my first match with the same gun I use in USPSA, a Kimber 1911 Team Match. But, this is a game designed for high-capacity handguns and I found out quickly the disadvantage of a 10-round magazine. Plus the recoil of the .45 ACP slowed me down.

STI handgun
Bryce M. Towsley's STI handgun in .40 S&W. Holster by Hillsman Holster Company.

I switched to a Glock 34 competition gun in 9mm. This is a high-capacity handgun with low recoil and is a good way to get started. Of course, it’s just temporary until my custom STI switch-barrel in .40 S&W and 9mm is completed. The reason for two calibers? Three-gun is still the frontier in terms of who regulates and who makes the rules, which I like. Too many rules are what spoiled a lot of other shooting sports. So, in many matches there is no power factor to consider and the 9mm is a good choice. The low recoil and high capacity make it a very competitive handgun. But, at some matches the various ruling bodies have a power factor requirement and the 9mm is too wimpy to qualify. So, in that situation I shoot a .40 S&W.

Which gun is best? It’s hard to say. A lot of shooters seem to favor the .40 S&W because it’s legal in all matches. If you shoot the 9mm in the matches with a power factor you lose nothing if you center your hits. But, if you have marginal hits they will score lower than with a more powerful gun. So if you shoot well, you give up nothing.

Any high-capacity handgun will work fine. The most common handgun in the top shooters I have talked with is the STI, a high-quality, 1911 style high-capacity handgun. They are known for accuracy and reliability. (512) 819-0656 www.stiguns.com.

Other Stuff You Need
You will need a way to carry spare ammo, so belt pouches for the handgun and rifle magazines are important somewhere down the road. Don’t let the lack of them keep you from your first match, just stick the mags in your pockets if you have to. Here are a few suggestions based on what I have been using and what’s working for me.

Obviously you will need a holster for your handgun. Off the shelf I have had good luck with the Blackhawk Serpa holster for my GLOCK. 1-800-694-5263 www.blackhawk.com.

But, a custom gun needs a custom holster and I had my left-hand holster for the STI handgun and the mag pouches made by Hillsman Holster Company. The craftsmanship and quality is excellent. They worked with me to determine what would work best with my body type and shooting style and then designed the holster accordingly. 713-560-2454 www.hillsmanholster.com.

It is necessary to carry a few extra rifle magazines during the competition in a way that allows them to be accessed quickly, but still keeps them secured while running and moving. I use a couple of AR-15/M16 Kydex magazine pouches from Brownells. 800-741-0015 www.brownells.com.

For the shotgun you will need plenty of extra ammo available. Tacstar (800-423-9704 www.tacstar.com) has an inexpensive sidesaddle that will hold six rounds, which is just a start. I have shot in some stages where I used close to 50 rounds. A shell belt will work, but most shooters like the belt mounted speed loaders, which Brownells has. Also look at arm bands, bandoliers and any other creative way to hold shotshells. I have been using some of that stuff from Mark Otto, available at www.triangleshootingsports.com or www.shootersconnection.com.

Ammo? When I am shooting factory ammo I use Federal for one-stop shopping as they have ammo for all three guns. www.federalpremium.com.

Transporting the guns and ammo is also an issue. The Blackhawk 44-inch weapons case will hold the rifle and short-barreled shotgun as well as the pistol in the side pocket. The new Three-Gun Competition case from Brownells is a bit longer and easily accepts a 24-inch barreled shotgun. It also has backpacking straps to help carry the load. Put the ammo in a range bag to carry in your hand and you are good to go.

A much easier way is to use a cart. Mine is from Rugged Gear and is designed to hold three long guns, but I have modified it to hold four. It also will carry all my ammo and other gear, including a few water bottles. It’s easy to push, even with a full load. Best of all, they are not all that expensive. 1-800-784-4331 www.ruggedgear.com.

The best endorsement is what my buddy Bruce Piatt, one of the top shooters in the world said about this game, “Three times the guns – three times the fun!”  GDTM

Another View on Thune (National CCW) Amendment

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The amendment to a Defense Department bill received a majority of votes, 58-39, however it failed to gain the necessary 60 votes needed to override a threatened filibuster by arch anti-gunner Senator Charles Schumer (D-NY).

There is ample evidence to suggest that this vote was orchestrated by Majority Leader Harry Reid (D-NV) and Thune merely to give Republicans and vulnerable Dems a “pro-gun vote” going into August recess and the upcoming election.

In short, everyone knew that this amendment would fail.  It was only brought forward as a pre-election stunt to buy a handful of Senator street-cred with gun voters.

From the Charlotte Gun Rights Examiner:

Laudable though Thune’s goal of national concealed carry may be, however, understand that the entire exercise was nothing but a sham in which (surprise, surprise) the amendment failed by a vote of 58 – 39. So before gun rights supporters contact the 58 ever-so-brave US Senators (including 20 Democrats) to thank them for supporting the measure, all should understand that its failure was preordained by Democrat Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid, and quite probably sanctioned by the NRA.

(Side note: Sixty votes – for “cloture” – were required for passage rather than the usual 51 due to a threatened filibuster by perennially anti-gun Sen. Charles Schumer. In the gentile land of the US Senate, threats routinely substitute for real action.

In reality, Reid is vulnerable in his 2010 re-election bid and, consequently, threw the NRA a very small bone.

And what does the NRA get? The appearance of accomplishing something – if not actual passage of the amendment, at least a recorded vote which purports to show who’s “fer ya” and “agin ya.” More action means more NRA members and more money.

Unfortunately, however, the vote shows nothing of the sort and, indeed, undermines your ability to assess which senators are actually pro-gun. The exercise is common, and here’s how it works: Chamber leadership (read that “Democrat”) gives a pass to members in conservative (or vulnerable) districts to vote for a measure which the leadership intends to kill – all the while keeping enough votes against, by Democrats in secure districts, to ensure defeat. They know, after all, that the NRA won’t waste money going after Chuck Schumer, Diane Feinstein or Frank Lautenberg.

So the result is a vote in which anti-gun Democrats such like Sen. Kay Hagan (D-NC) get to posture as gun rights supporters. Read more

Source: National Association for Gun Rights

 

Move Over Mexico: U.S. Blamed for Canada’s Illegal Gun Trade

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Many anti-gun idealists are still trying to perpetuate the myth that guns are bought legally in the U.S. and are then sold to Mexican gangs despite the fact that their “90% of all illegal guns in Mexico come from the U.S.” claim has been thoroughly debunked.

Sensing a chance to snowball the issue, a “study” conducted in Canada claims “that the best available data suggests that about two-thirds of crime guns seized in Canada have their origin south of the border.” Spearheading the study was Wendy Cukier of Ryerson University, a prominent gun control activist, who feels the blame should be extended for all violent crime on the planet.

Canada seldom points to the obvious fact that lax U.S. gun laws not only result in high numbers of Americans being killed with guns, but fuel the illegal gun trade and handgun homicide in Canada, in Mexico, in the Caribbean and indeed around the world.

There are, however, a few problems with that accusation.

First of all, the study itself showed that the majority of rifles and shotguns used in crime actually came from Canadian sources. And even for handguns, they admit that it is very difficult to trace guns originating from countries other than the U.S. Using their logic, if they traced 100 guns and 1 was found to be from Canada, 3 from the United States, and 96 from unknown sources, then the majority of the guns able to be traced came from the U.S. Read more

Source: Cleveland Gun Rights Examiner

 

Restored To Life: Winchester 1886

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The Winchester 1886 - considered by many to be the greatest lever-action Winchester ever made. It is certainly the handsomest.
The Winchester 1886 – considered by many to be the greatest lever-action Winchester ever made. It is certainly the handsomest.

At what point does a gun stop having serious collector value, and become more valuable as a candidate for restoration? Follow a Winchester Model 1886 from the dusty confines of the past to a whole new life.

The shabby old Winchester Model 1886, when it came into my possession, was almost indescribable. It could have been a good one: Chambered for the highly desirable 40-65, with an octagonal barrel, fine bore and clean internal mechanism, the rifle should have commanded a premium price. Instead, it was going for less than half of “book.” There was no need to ask why.

At some point during its century on this earth, the hapless firearm had fallen into the hands of a man with a jack-knife, artistic pretensions and far too many long winter evenings. The result was, well, almost indescribable.

“Thirteen hundred and it's yours,” Jeff said. “Sad, isn't it?”

“Maybe,” I replied, studying the sacrilegious carvings and the pitted frame. “But then again, maybe not.”

As I wrapped up the old warrior and carried it gently from the shop, I could have sworn I heard a whimper of relief.

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To my mind, Winchester Model 1886 #121321 was a prime candidate, not just for some cosmetic repairs, but for a full-scale restoration as only Doug Turnbull can do. Not refinishing, not even what is called refurbishment, but complete, historically accurate and authentic restoration: Returning the rifle to the exact condition in which it proudly left New Haven in May, 1900.

Restoration! I can hear the gasps as Winchester collectors from coast to coast start dialing the nearest exorcist. You mean alter an original 1886? A collector's item? Yes, and no. Yes, we'll alter it, and no, it's not a collector's item – at least not one worth preserving.

Right there is the key phrase: “worth preserving.”

Left: The amazing thing about this Model 1886 is that it was so good inside, but looked like this on the outside. Since it left New Haven in 1900, it had obviously led an active life, even without falling into the hands of a would-be wood carver. Right: The rich colors of a fine case-hardening job are truly a thing of beauty.
Left: The amazing thing about this Model 1886 is that it was so good inside, but looked like this on the outside. Since it left New Haven in 1900, it had obviously led an active life, even without falling into the hands of a would-be wood carver. Right: The rich colors of a fine case-hardening job are truly a thing of beauty.

At what point does a gun stop having serious collector value, and become more valuable as a candidate for restoration? A look at any book of suggested gun values shows how the value drops off quickly, from new-in-the-box, to mint, to 98 percent, and on down. When a rifle is judged to be about 75 percent condition, with the bluing gone, collector value (except in the rarest cases) is really little more than you might pay to get a gun for hunting, shooting, or cowboy matches.

Is that condition worth preserving for posterity? I think not.

All of us have seen rifles that have been “refinished” (and often refinished poorly.) These sell at a discount even to an original rifle in poorer condition, and rightly so. The lettering is faint and uneven, sharp corners are rounded off, and the bluing is modern and nondescript. Often, stocks are sanded so much the buttplate protrudes on all sides. But that is refinishing by amateurs. It is not restoration, and authentic restoration of firearms is the subject here.

Americans as a people are preoccupied with collector value, not just in firearms, but also in many other fields. The fear that any kind of repair will damage collector value has relegated many a fine gun to a reluctant home over the fireplace, or resulted in its being traded for something more modern. Giving up the pleasure of using a fine old rifle to hunt deer in exchange for a new contraption with a shiny barrel, a plastic stock, and no character, all in the name of collector's value, strikes me as a very poor bargain.

The key question is whether this abhorrence of alteration is legitimate. After all, there are areas of equally obsessive collection (and much bigger money) where restoration is not only accepted but, when properly done, actually adds value.

Antique automobiles are the prime example. Any car that was ever used cannot be “factory original.”Oil gets changed, tires wear out, and carburetors, windshields, and headlamps are replaced. This is normal maintenance. The key to auto restoration is to restore it to original condition, meaning that everything is as it once was or might have been. Tires must be authentic, and even the paint color, enamel, and application method must be historically correct. The result, when done properly by experts, is a car that is letter-perfect in both condition and features.

These restored automobiles win jet-set competitions, change hands for millions, and grace the most exclusive collections. The critical consideration is authenticity. So if this is true of vintage Ferraris, and accepted without question, why not vintage Winchesters?

Robert M. Lee is a prominent collector of both firearms and automobiles, one of a handful of men on the planet who is a genuine expert in both fields at the highest level.

“To a serious gun collector, condition is everything,” he told me. “The difference between cars and guns is that there are many more guns in fine to pristine condition, even guns hundreds of years old, than there are automobiles. Automobile collectors really do not have a choice, because mint original specimens are so rare.

“When it comes to gun restoration, there are two principles. If a piece is in fine condition it should not be touched; and, if a piece is extremely rare or one of kind, it should not be touched regardless of condition.

“If you have a gun that is in shabby condition, and there are thousands of them around – the Winchester 94 is a perfect example – then proper restoration will give you a really nice example of a rifle you otherwise could not afford.”

Bob Lee says he has “great respect” for a gunmaker who is capable of restoring antique firearms. Most of them are in Europe, and they ply their trade for museums and collectors, like Lee, who operate in the stratosphere of collecting. Lee ranks Doug Turnbull in that group.

“I have seen his work. His case-hardening is excellent, excellent. There are so few people who know how to do that, and most are in Europe.”

Although he avoids restored firearms in his own collection except for a few special circumstances, Lee says it represents another class of collecting, and one that is growing.

In the case of my Winchester 1886, such concerns simply did not matter. To me, the rifle was an abused puppy to be rescued. The anguished howls of the local Winchester aficionados rang in my ears as I settled down to do something about the execrable condition of poor old #121321.

Left: The action floor of the Winchester 1886 as I found it: A pitted gray mess. Right: The action floor after Turn-bull’s restoration, returned to case-hardened glory.
Left: The action floor of the Winchester 1886 as I found it: A pitted gray mess. Right: The action floor after Turn-bull’s restoration, returned to case-hardened glory.

The first step was a call to Doug Turnbull, followed by photos of the rifle, close-up and from all angles.

“Sure we can do something,” Doug said. “What about the stock, though&?”

“We'll re-stock it. Nothing can save the existing one.”

“Yes, it's too bad,” he replied. “It was a nice piece of walnut.”

“Yes. Was. I'll get you a blank.”

The goal was to return the rifle to the look it had when it left New Haven. That means a piece of walnut typical of the period. Although black walnut was standard on American rifles of the time, it was not absolute. What was important was avoiding a piece so showy as to be out of place. Gorgeous walnut looks at home on a Holland & Holland, but simply wrong on an old lever action.

Bill Dowtin is a dealer in-stock blanks and a stockmaker of more than 30 years experience. Now an importer of walnut from central Asia, Bill prides himself on being able, not just to judge a blank, but to match the character of a piece of wood to the intended gun. I explained the situation.

“Don't worry,” Bill said, “I'll get you a suitable blank. On those rifles, they liked walnut that was very red. Some were feather-crotch, but most were cut one or two slabs away. It is hard to describe the figure. Almost an irregular anomaly type of figure. Mottled is about the best term for it.” His description meant little to me at the time, but the finished product certainly did when I saw it several months later. But all that was to come.

I sent the rifle to Turnbull Restoration where operations manager Jason Barden logged it in and began a thorough assessment of its condition. The first step was to determine exactly what it had been when it left the Winchester factory in May 1900. A letter to the Cody Firearms Museum in Wyoming (custodian of the Winchester records) gave us a slight shock.

“When the rifle left the factory it was not a 40-65,” Doug told me, “It was a 38-56. It is not even factory original now, and there's no way of knowing when it was rebarreled, or by whom. He did a good job, though. It has a good bore. And it is a Winchester barrel.”

There was really nothing to be decided. I liked the rifle as it was, and 40-65 brass is easy to come by these days compared to the arcane 38-56. To my mind it all just added to the rifle's charm and mystery.

“We'll get a letter from the museum but leave the rifle as it is.”I said. “Whoever owns it 50 years from now will appreciate it.”

Left: Could anything look worse? As if the amateur carving was not bad enough, the screw heads had been butchered and the tang was scratched and gouged. Right: The tang as it is now, polished, serial number re-cut, case-hardened, with Winchester factory original replacement screws, properly aligned.
Left: Could anything look worse? As if the amateur carving was not bad enough, the screw heads had been butchered and the tang was scratched and gouged. Right: The tang as it is now, polished, serial number re-cut, case-hardened, with Winchester factory original replacement screws, properly aligned.

So, ironically, the rifle had no real collector's value when I bought it because it was not factory original even then and had not been for a long time. It is generally accepted that alterations carried out by the original maker count as “factory original” for collecting purposes, but you need proof. The replacement barrel is a Winchester, but that is all we will ever know.

Mechanically, Turnbull found the rifle to be quite sound, but cosmetics were another thing entirely. The barrel was bad enough, with rust, pitting, and the odd dent and ding, but the receiver was a grey, splotchy mess. The magazine tube showed the usual signs of wear, and both the sharply curved rifle buttplate and steel forend cap were scratched, dinged and rusted. Every screw head in the rifle had, it seemed, been worked on with a hatchet. If any of the owners ever possessed a proper screwdriver, there was no evidence of it.

In a drawer I had an original Lyman receiver sight for an 1886, itself a valuable collector's item, and I sent it to Doug with a request that it be installed to match the rifle. The 1886 was going to be put back to work, as a hunting rifle, once it was all put to rights.

The old 1886 was a full-scale restoration project with the straightforward goal of making the rifle “as new.”

But I had a Winchester 94 of comparable vintage (1910, actually) that also needed attention. Here, the problem was quite different. The rifle was a 32 Special with a 26-inch octagonal barrel that had been well used but well looked after throughout its life.

From end to end, the 94 was aging gracefully as a century-old rifle should. The only problem was a large brown blemish on the left side of the receiver – a patch two inches square that reproached me every time I looked at it. At some point, the rifle had come in contact with something corrosive. Mercifully, its previous owners had not taken a wire wheel to it, so there was no real damage.

The challenge to Doug Turnbull's team of vintage-rifle experts: Refinish the receiver of the 94 but make it look at home, gently aged like the rest of the rifle.

The 94 and the 1886, although manufactured only 10 years apart, display a marked difference in the way Winchester made rifles.

“Receivers on all the early lever actions were case-hardened,” Doug said. “This was the process that hardened the exterior of the steel, and made it rust resistant, after it had been completely machined. The colors, beautiful though they were, were a by-product of an essential industrial process.”

A word of explanation: Frequently today we see reference to “case-coloring” – modern chemical processes which impart rippling blue and amber colors to steel, without changing the composition of the metal. Case-hardening, the original process, baked carbon into the skin of the steel, hardening it almost like glass, while leaving the steel beneath softer but tougher. Case-hardening was the final step, applied after the steel had been completely machined, polished and engraved.

As the quality of steel in firearms evolved, so did the final treatment applied.

“Around 1900, Winchester began using harder alloy steels for its receivers. They phased out case-hardening and began bluing the receivers instead, because the new steel was tougher and harder to begin with.” Turnbull said. “Your 1886 was made in 1900, so it was right on the cusp of that change, although it was case-hardened originally. The shell was hard as glass, as you would have found if you'd tried a file on it.

“Your 94, on the other hand, had been blued rather than case-hardened, so the challenge was to reblue it but make it appear the bluing was done many years ago.”

If much of this seems like black magic and alchemy, it is because it is. Gunmaking is an ancient craft, and many of the processes date back to a time of coal forges and leather aprons. Skills were passed from father to son. When a man was renowned for imparting a beautiful finish to a gunstock or case-hardening a frame to exquisite colors, the technique was jealously guarded within the family.

In many cases, alas, this led to arcane knowledge being lost. the making of damascus gun barrels, for example, is a lost art. No one today knows how to do it.

Today, many processes are standardized and a gun from one maker looks much like a gun from another. A century ago, however, each maker had his own techniques and the differences were highly prized.

Parker was famous for its case colors. In fact, Turnbull says, in terms of colors there were two types in America: Parker, and everyone else. Case-hardening is the most mysterious of all the gunmaking arts, since it involves baking steel in a mixture of charcoal and animal parts like bone or leather. It is the animal carbon that imparts the colors, and the secrets revolve around this type of bone, or that type of leather.

Doug Turnbull came by his interest in the old techniques through his father, who opened a small retail business in upstate New York in 1958. Doug was born three years later, and grew up in his father's shop, watching as he experimented with different techniques of metal finishing, and talking with customers and enthusiasts who came in with antique firearms in need of work.

Although he did not train formally as a gunsmith, Doug went into the business when he finished school, and took a special interest in restoration.

“My father had been experimenting with case-hardening and metal preparation,” Turnbull said, “And I took over that side of it. It turned into years of trial and error. Some of these processes are literally lost arts. There are no books about it. Very little was written down, but in the 1960s, a few of the old craftsmen were still alive and were eager to pass on what they knew, if anyone asked.

“My father learned from them, and I learned from him.”

Just like the old way, when you think about it.

Another aspect of authentic restoration is matching the level of original workmanship. Over the years, as manufacturing methods changed and different pressures – usually economic – were brought to bear, gunmakers reduced the attention they gave to certain details. This is easiest to see on a rifle like the Winchester 94, which was manufactured during the entire span of 20th century industrial history.

Left: A rifle’s muzzle takes a beating. Right: The muzzle was squared and re-crowned, and the magazine cap and front sight replaced.
Left: A rifle’s muzzle takes a beating. Right: The muzzle was squared and re-crowned, and the magazine cap and front sight replaced.

Loosely – and this applies to all firearms – there was the golden age of craftsmanship which lasted from the late 1800s until 1914, when the world went to war. When commercial production resumed after 1918, many of the practices learned (and bad habits acquired) during the war years were applied. Pearl Harbor was the next great watershed, and by 1950, the whole philosophy of mass-production gunmaking had changed.

Put a 1900-vintage Model 94 beside one made in 1912 and you'll see a slight difference; add one from 1921 and the difference is striking. And after 1945, it was all downhill.

Doug Turnbull and his specialists have studied this aspect of restoration and can return a rifle or handgun to the original level of workmanship. Amateur refinishers usually rush the polishing so they can get to the bluing, which is totally wrong.

“Time spent in preparation is all-important,” Turnbull said. “Take your 1886. We knew from the hardness that it had been case-hardened originally. It was right at the end of that era – the switch over to bluing the 1886 took place around serial number 120,000.

“We dismantled the rifle completely, cleaned it, annealed the receiver (to eliminate the hardness), polished it, re-cut the lettering and factory markings, then case-hardened it using the original Winchester process.”

It sounds simple, but it is painstaking indeed. Polishing requires extreme care, a light touch, and exquisite attention to detail. Pitting almost always looks worse than it is. A shotgun bore with pits like the craters of Mars can often be polished and not even go out of proof. The essential thing is never to remove more metal than is absolutely necessary.

A square, flat surface like a lever-action receiver requires special care in order to come out the other end looking square, flat, and even, with sharp corners. To the naked eye it looks factory original; only a sensitive caliper reveals the dimensional difference.

Proper metal polishing is an under-appreciated art. It was the key to the seductive smoothness of guns from the golden age. The parts were polished inside and out. Look at the internal bits of a Holland & Holland, made then or made now, and you will see every little bit polished to perfection. This gives smooth, effortless operation. As industrial processes deteriorated after 1914, polishing was steadily reduced.

“Proper polishing requires time, and time is money,” Doug Turnbull says. “If you can eliminate ten hours of polishing, that is a substantial reduction in costs. Internal parts can often be left unpolished without materially affecting the operation of the gun, at least in the short term, so they let them go.

“Over the years, less and less polishing was applied, and it shows in both the operation and the external finish on these guns.”

Turnbull's favorite example is the venerated Colt single-action revolver. “A Colt from before 1913 was given 35 to 45 hours of preparation to get the finish ready for bluing and case-hardening,” he says, “While one from later years was given only 25 to 30 hours.” Therefore, in restoring one, you want to restore only to the level of finish appropriate for that era. Turnbull said he could make a post-1918 Colt as good as a pre-1913 one, but then it wouldn't be authentic.”

No production Winchester was ever made to the level of finish of an H&H Royal, but even so the difference between an old and new 94 is readily apparent. An action that starts off slick gets slicker with use; one that starts off rough only gets rickety. The 1886 has a reputation as the smoothest lever gun Winchester ever made; part of that is the design, but part is the level of internal finish.

Bluing is an art in itself, and one that requires knowledge of both metallurgy and chemistry.

Like case-hardening, bluing served a number of purposes. Not only did it impart a surface finish that would reduce reflection, resist rust, or simply make the gun more attractive, but the method of bluing sometimes changed the qualities of the metal itself.

Old Winchesters require three different types of bluing to duplicate factory condition: nitre, carbona (or charcoal), and rust bluing. Each has its own use.

Nitre blue imparts that deep, iridescent, midnight blue that one sees on gun springs, screws, and the door of a lever-action loading gate. It requires glassy polishing and surgical cleanliness. It is used where temper and hardness are critical.

Carbona is a heat blue, used on small parts as well as the receiver of the rifle. It draws some of the hardness out of the metal, so one must be careful in its use, but it is easier than nitre and less labor-intensive than rust bluing. It imparts a deep, lustrous finish.

Rust bluing is used on barrels and magazine tubes, and has more of a matte appearance. It is applied by immersing the barrel in the solution, letting it rust, carding it off, re-dipping and re-carding ad infinitum until the desired shade and depth of blue has been achieved.

Since these processes look different from the start, they age differently, which is why old Winchester receivers age to grey, while the barrels go brownish. It is an attractive look that makers of new guns now spend time and money trying to reproduce.

A critical change for barrel bluing took place in the early 1900s during the switch from blackpowder to smokeless. Gunmakers needed harder, tougher steels to resist the greater pressures and intense heat of smokeless powder, and abrasion from jacketed bullets. For Winchester, the star cartridge of the dawning smokeless era was not the 30-30, as one might suppose, but the later 32 Special. It was introduced only after they had perfected the use of nickel-steel barrels, and my 32 wears a barrel that has imprinted on it “NICKEL STEEL BARREL – ESPECIALLY FOR SMOKELESS POWDER.” Nickel steel is stainless steel of an early type, and naturally resists rust, so it requires a different bluing process. This is one reason two barrels from the same general era might age differently.

After 1940, black oxide became the standard commercial bluing method. It is a water-based chemical blue that is easy and fast but cannot match the beauty of either rust or carbona bluing.

The barrel and magazine tube on the 1886 were rust blued and its loading gate nitre blued. The receiver on the Winchester 94 was carbona blued. The differences are deliciously apparent.

Finally, the stock on the 1886. The carving and scratching carried out by the previous owner, perhaps as long as a hundred years ago, rendered the stock not only ugly but unsalvageable. Bill Dowtin came through with a piece of Central Asian English walnut that looked as if Jove intended it for a vintage Winchester.

It had that prized natural red hue, whisperings of feather-crotch grain all the way to the toe of the stock, several layers of figure that glowed subtly through the oil finish, and straight, extremely strong grain through the wrist. The forend matched the color and rippled gently.

Turnbull put the blank on the pantograph with the original stock, and then turned the semi-finished product over to his stocker for fitting. The final touch was an authentic glossy Winchester finish.

At the center of any collector's concern is monetary value. Some years ago, Doug Turnbull told me about another restored Winchester 1886, as an example of how restoration can affect value.

The Winchester 1886 is a highly desirable collector's item. Only 159,994 were made, compared to more than a million 1892s and close to six million 94s. Turnbull took an 1886 that was worth, in its rather shabby, unrestored condition, about $3,000. Had it been in 98 percent original condition, it would have been worth as much as $20,000. Once restored to like-new condition, that $3,000 rifle sold at auction for $9,750. Not the equal of the collector's prize original, but still considerably more than it had been.

Steve Fjestad is editor of the Blue Book of Gun Values,the indispensable bible of gun dealers everywhere. Does he think collectors will ever accept restored firearms?

“The answer for most guns is ‘no,' except for factory reconditioned English shotguns and rifles by famous makers,” he said. “The English have never looked down on properly restored long arms, because they've sent their guns back to the factories for reconditioning for decades.”

(Also, it should be pointed out, it is very hard to define “factory original” when the vast majority of guns by companies like Holland & Holland were custom guns, made to the client's specifications. There simply are no standards by which to measure originality.)

I then asked Fjestad about restoring a rifle that has seen a lot of use, with most of the bluing gone, dings on the stock and no finish left. Is that a collector's item that should be preserved, or would it be better going to someone like Doug Turnbull to be restored?

“In that situation, you can't win either way,” Fjestad said, “And here's why: It's already not much of a collector's item because of its lower condition, unless it's a rare major-trademark model. And by the time you pay for a professional restoration, you may or may not get all your money back when selling.”

Fair enough. If money is the only consideration, then restoration may not be a rock-solid financial investment. After all, if you buy an 1886 for $3,000, have it restored for $4,000, and then sell it for $6500, you've lost money. But to a serious lover of fine firearms, there is far more to it than mere dollars.

Over the past decade or so, I have had several shotguns and rifles restored or (to use the British term) refurbished. In England, a “refurb” is completely respectable and its effect on value depends only on how well it is carried out. The economics became plain to me when it was explained that an unusable H. Holland 50-caliber muzzleloading double rifle could be returned to excellent shootable condition for $5,000 – after which I would have a rifle that might be worth $5,000.

At that point, you look at this chunk of scrap which is a potential piece of history and ask yourself what it is worth, to you, to salvage that piece of history for posterity, whether you personally profit by it or not. If you count as profit the feeling of having saved something valuable that otherwise would have been lost, and presenting it to lovers of fine guns to treasure forevermore, then you might become hooked as I have.

Among my pack of rescued puppies I have a 28-gauge James Erskine hammer gun from the 1880s that saw hard service in Africa; an 1890 E.M. Reilly boxlock that was owned by a Scottish gamekeeper, brought to the new world, and spent 30 years in the rafters of a henhouse; a Savage 1899 (1916), and an Ithaca trap gun (1921). All are in excellent working order, and each gets used.

Bob Lee pointed out that, with automobiles, restoration is almost always necessary just to get them to run “unless you want a pile of junk that just sits there.” For many rifles and shotguns, the same is true. Under the British proof system, to be used a gun must be in proof, and putting an old gun in proof often takes a complete refurb.

Looking at these fine old guns, all of them leaning casually against my bookshelf, and now with the Model 1886 proudly among them, I know that at some point I could get my investment back.

But there is something else. It is a truth universally acknowledged that more really fine guns survive through the years in really fine condition because when a buyer pays big money he tends to look after his investment, and his heirs do as well. A gun made as a tool gets treated like a tool.

The guns I have had restored are now firmly in the former category and a hundred years from now, with any luck, they will reside in the collection of someone who cares deeply about guns and workmanship. At that point, I sincerely doubt he will really care that they were restored or refurbished, unless it is to silently give thanks that people like Doug Turnbull existed.

For that matter, a hundred years from now, the imprimatur “Restored by Turnbull” on a Winchester 1886 might well carry as much cachet as the Winchester name itself.

This article is from Gun Digest 2008.


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Senate Judiciary Votes “Yes” on Sonia Sotomayor

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Apparently, the flighty Republican did not care that Judge Sotomayor has demonstrated an extreme anti-gun bias in her private and public life.  Not only that, she has expressed racist views in multiple speeches over the years, and she has proven — in her actions and words — that she is committed to IGNORING THE CONSTITUTION!

The Sotomayor nomination now moves to the U.S. Senate floor, where gun owners definitely face an uphill battle.

Press reports have indicated that Sotomayor is giving Senators private assurances that she will follow Supreme Court precedents on the Second Amendment.  This is ridiculous, of course, but it doesn't help that a liberal front group claiming to support the Second Amendment — the American Hunters and Shooters Association — is supporting Sotomayor, giving cover to wavering Democrats.

Politico.com reports that AHSA “will be highlighted as part of a rapid-fire response strategy Democrats plan to launch to respond to GOP attacks.”

The fact that AHSA endorsed Obama during the campaign should demonstrate that this group is nothing more than a Trojan horse.  That's why we need Senators to know that gun owners consider a vote for Sotomayor to be one of the most ANTI-GUN votes they could ever cast and that front groups like AHSA don't speak for you!

ACTION:  Please contact your two Senators and urge them to vote NO on Judge Sotomayor.  Tell them that the American Hunters and Shooters Association doesn't speak for you.  Please use the Gun Owners Legislative Action Center to send your legislators the pre-written e-mail message below.

—– Pre-written letter —–

Dear Senator:

The confirmation of Judge Sonia Sotomayor would be a horrible choice for Americans — not to mention the gun owners of this country.  Throughout her career, Judge Sonia Sotomayor has shown that she opposes the right to keep and bear arms, denies there is a constitutional right to self-defense, and frequently ignores constitutional and statutory precedents.

However, I understand that a front group called the American Hunters and Shooters Association is supporting Sotomayor, giving cover to wavering Senators.

Please understand that AHSA is NOT a pro-gun organization.  This organization shares many of the same goals as the Brady Campaign, and it is nothing more than a Trojan horse in the gun rights community.

After all, this is a group that according to records from 2005 had fewer than 150 dues paying individual members.  Its founding president, Ray Schoenke, donated money to the radical Handgun Control, Inc. — a group that argued in favor of the DC gun ban (which was struck down by the Supreme Court last year).  And another of its founding members, John Rosenthal, was also the founder of Stop Handgun Violence.

I am a proud supporter of Gun Owners of America, and they do speak for me and the gun rights community when they say that Judge Sonia Sotomayor is bad for the Constitution… bad for the Second Amendment… and bad for America.

Sincerely,

———–

Source: Gun Owners of America

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National Concealed Carry? Not Right Now

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“A strong majority of the Senate, in a 58-39 vote, supported the measure, which would require most states to honor the concealed weapons permits issued by other states,” according to the Associated Press. “But the tally was two votes short of the 60 votes needed to add the measure as an amendment to a defense bill.”

As the AP noted, “Twenty Democrats, mainly from western or rural states, joined all but two Republicans in voting for the measure, which was promoted by the National Rifle Association and other gun rights groups. They included Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid of Nevada and both Democratic senators from Colorado, Arkansas, Montana, North Dakota and Virginia.”

Wayne LaPierre, executive vice president of the National Rifle Association, told the AP that even with the defeat, the close vote showed that, “we have the wind to our back.” He termed the Senate vote, “one more step down the road to allowing all Americans the full measure of Second Amendment protection.”

LaPierre also warned that those senators who voted against national concealed carry, “will see it reflected in support from their constituents.”

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This Gun Collecting Game

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John Amber shooting his 25 pound H.C. Leman Civil War sniper's rifle. Caliber is .45, and the equipment includes false muzzle, telescope sight, and an assortment of tools.

Sure, a lot of the guns you read about are costly pieces, but in general those guns that took a deep bite out of the proud owner's poke are the fancy, engraved, as new or mint condition arms of great rarity. That's why they were written about in the first place.

You, as a beginning gun collector, however, can spend as little as you please — and if you will take these well-intended words to heart, you will spend your hard-earned shekels slowly and cagily.

A large number of budding gun collectors, both young and old, once they've been bitten by the gun bug, have thrown their money about with wild abandon, buying this, that and the other gun with little or no real conception of the value — if any — of the old iron they were latching onto.

Let me add right now that I'm not condemning “old iron” here as such — it has its proper place. Those rough conditioned, battered or broken guns, frequently lacking major or minor parts, are usually what the youngster starts with when the collecting virus strikes.

If the novice collector, youngster or not, buys them “right,” meaning a nominal price of from 50c to a few dollars, he can profit from a study of them. Tearing them down, putting them back together — the latter is much the harder job, usually — perhaps repairing them or cleaning them up, can give the interested arms student valuable information and knowledge, knowledge that will be helpful when the first flush of enthusiastic indiscrimination has given way to more informed and careful selection of the particular branch of arms that his interest has fixed on.

I said gun collecting was easy, and it is. Not as easy as stamp collecting, perhaps (and I don't want to hear from a bunch of irate stamp collectors, either), but quite simple and painless really, provided. Let's reverse our field briefly, and I'll outline the case history of the average beginning gun collector as I have observed him over 25 years, and it includes your correspondent at an early, uncritical age!

The Beginner

Sauer & Son single barreled rifle, circa 1885
Sauer & Son single barreled rifle, circa 1885, with the gold nameplate of the Duke Ernst II of Saxe Coburg (Germany). Weight is only 6 lbs., yet the cartridge used is the Black Powder Express 500-3, loaded with 136 grains of powder and a 380 grain bullet. This gives about double the free recoil in foot pounds of a 180 grain load in an 8 Ib. 30-06 the Duke must have been rugged!

We see the young collector — and sometimes not so young — flushed and feverish. He has been infected with the dread disease, and his native caution has gone by the board. His money burning a hole in his pocket, he haunts the few gun shops or antique shops within his ken, buying whatever fits his pocket-book, whatever may be offered, and — often enough —whatever the dealer may be stuck with!

Almost invariably he has no idea of prevailing values, no background knowledge of arms and their relative scarcity and/or desirability. He doesn't know anything of the current or potential trends in gun collecting, he is uncritical as to arms condition – a most important point in setting value — and, all too frequently, he couldn't care less! But he's going to have that double-action Hopkins & Allen revolver with the broken hammer, the busted grips and the rusted barrel or else — and he usually buys it, too, at about five times what it's worth.

The disease now runs its hectic course until one morning our hero wakes up and it's over. He finds himself with a bushel basketful of assorted rusty objects — these are guns? — a few battered muskets, and a headache. He is now a sadder and wiser man — well, sadder, anyway — and he does one of two things. He calls in the nearest junkman and unloads the iron, resolving to take up golf, and to hell with gun collecting. Or, fortunately for the game, he takes stock of himself and his lack of essential firearms knowledge, and decides to go at this gun collecting game sensibly.

Now — and I want to make this as strong as I can — none of this had to happen, and it needn't happen to you. Before you make a single purchase you should do all of the following things, letting a good 30 to 90 days elapse before spending a dollar on guns!

The Smart Way

1. Write to all of the antique arms dealers listed in the Directory of the Arms Trade (elsewhere in THE GUN DIGEST), and ask for their catalogs or lists. Compare the prices of the arms that interest you, and try to reach an average price. Remember, however, that rarely are two guns of the same make and model in exactly the same condition, an all-important factor in determining price.

Collecting firearms is enjoyable and rewarding if you go about it right — but not many do. Here's a step-by-step approach that will save you time, temper and money — if you heed it!

2. Get a current copy of Chapel's Gun Collectors Handbook of Values, and read it. Do not fail to read the opening chapters, wherein the author describes his system of evaluating arms, his terminology for degrees of condition, etc. This valuable work was last issued (3d ed., revised) in 1955, hence the prices shown cannot be depended on entirely, but the relative values are still very much worthwhile.

3. In addition to the list of antique arms dealers listed in THE GUN DIGEST, there is an extensive selection of books for the gun collector in the Gun Book Review section, and a list of nearly 30 Arms Associations scattered over the United States. Join the local association or associations, and attend their meetings, usually held once every 30 or 60 days. Study the arms exhibited, check prices against condition on a comparative basis, talk to the members, but — huh unh — don't buy yet!

One of the most valuable organizations listed is the National Rifle Assn. You will be doing yourself and the firearms field in general a good turn by joining this oldest of the arms associations, for almost alone it has fought and withstood the annual avalanche of federal and state anti-gun laws proposed. Your membership will bring you The American Rifleman 12 times a year, a periodical with excellent reading for everyone interested in firearms, shooting and hunting. As a gun collector, read the classified ads as part of your training program, again checking comparative prices, and write to any antique arms dealers not found in THE GUN DIGEST. Subscribe to the Shotgun News, published at Columbus, Neb. A sample copy will be sent on request. The title of this monthly publication is something of a misnomer, in that the paper is full of gun ads of all kinds.

Two rifles by the same fine maker, Carl Stiegele of Munich (Germany)
Two rifles by the same fine maker, Carl Stiegele of Munich (Germany). The top view shows a “parlor” rifle of 6mm caliber, an unusual breechloader that probably used a “loaded ball” like the Volcanics did. There is no extractor. The deeply textured Damascus barrel is covered with silver inlay in relief. The lower rifle is a Martini-actioned target type in 8.15 x 46.5mm caliber. The action and barrel are gold and silver inlayed, and engraved. The writer is not fond of carved gun stocks usually, but the carving seen here is first class.

4. If you have honestly followed the above steps, you are now ready to buy guns intelligently, critically, and with proper regard for their real value. And if you are really interested in old guns, the job should have been a pleasure, not a chore. I well remember the joy with which I tore open a just-received gun catalog, the avid poring over it I did, pricing this, selecting that, writing letters, asking questions.

5. In the give and take of buying a gun or trading for one through a local dealer, where you can handle and examine his wares, you buy on a “for keeps” basis usually, unless there is an express agreement to the contrary. This is only fair to the dealer, for you have had the opportunity to look the gun over carefully. It is a little too much to ask the dealer for a refund after a few days or a week, because he might have had a chance to definitely sell it during the time you had it.  Buying by mail, however, is something quite different. In the beginning, until you get to know your dealer or dealers — and they get to know you — DO NOT SEND ANY MONEY!

Virtually all of the reputable dealers are quite willing to send you a gun on approval without payment if they know you, the gun to be returned to them within a few days usually, if unsatisfactory. Or via express collect with examination privileges. This system permits you to examine the arm in the express office, either accepting or rejecting it as you see fit. If you have received a gun on approval, be sure you do not abuse the dealer's confidence — see that the gun is returned to him within his time limit, and in the condition in which it reached you. Lest it seem odd that I should stress this, let me assure you that many arms have been returned to dealers with parts damaged from the gun having been taken apart, or shot, or “repaired,” etc.

It may have struck you, from a few things I've said earlier, that the field of gun collecting is rife with crooked dealers. Nothing could be farther from the truth in fact, for by and large the average dealer — and I mean 98% of them — is scrupulous and fair to a high degree. As you get to know them, you will find them leaning over like the Tower of Pisa to give you a fair shake.

Most of my best friends in the gun collecting field are dealers, and I've known many of them for years. Don't forget that honest, square dealing usually begets more of the same. But let's not kid ourselves completely — there are some bad apples in this game, some cheaters and fakers who have taken the unwary to the cleaners. But please note that I said “unwary” customers. If you will observe religiously my warning about not sending money to people you don't know or who cannot be vouched for otherwise, you will never lose any money on a parcel post or railway express transaction.

Lore and History

Gun collecting is educational. Yes, it is easily that. If your interest develops in martial and frontier arms, you will soon learn a great deal more about many phases of our history. The “Kentucky” long rifles of the 18th century and their deadly effect in the War of Independence; the Brown Bess and other smoothbore muskets used by a far greater number on both sides of the same conflict; the numerous types of arms used in the Mexican War, the Civil War, the Spanish-American War, and World Wars I and II.

The weapons of the old frontier have a great fascination for many: the Colts and Remingtons, the heavy Hawken rifles of the mountain men; the muzzleloading trade guns and rifles of the Indians; the Henrys, the Winchesters and the Springfields of the plainsmen and cattle herders, of the settlers and the miners; the derringers of the gamblers and the famed Sharps rifles of the equally famous buffalo hunters. All of the lure and romance of the Old

Rifles by H. F. Clark, Gibbs-Farquharson.
Top – Long Range type rifle by H. F. Clark, patented in 1885. The breechblock, hammer, trigger and guard rotate together around the hinge pin seen at the forward, lower edge of the action. All metal parts handsomely scroll engraved, this first quality rifle may be unique. Bottom – Gibbs-Farquharson rifle. The steel plates covering the forward portion of the stock are called Selous sideplates – Frederick Courtenay Selous, famous African hunter of the late 19th century, gave his name to this stock-strengthening device. He wrapped a broken stock in the field with wet, green hide. This dried very hard and taut, making a strong repair.

Perhaps your interest lies elsewhere. If so, there are many fields to choose from. Oddities in arms may take your fancy, queer and grotesque types and mechanisms that had a short life; complicated and elaborate designs that look like anything but firearms. Palm pistols, chain and other multi-shot arms, dagger and brass-knuckle combination revolvers, harmonica and turret revolvers and pistols, and hundreds of others.

Guns of the old world may attract you. The magnificent craftsmanship, the details and painstaking artistry of the Italian masters of the 16th and 17th centuries; a beautifully chiseled wheellock or snaphaunce by one of the Comin-azzi of Brescia. Or a handsomely boneor ivory-inlaid German pistol or long gun; the truly splendid works of art by France's great gunmaker, Boutet; the highly engraved and elaborate arms from Austria, Spain, France, Belgium, Holland and Bohemia, with the fine flintlock duelling pistols of England making no such brave show, but worthy of note for their perfect, precise workmanship. One of the finest collections in the world of this type is in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 84th Street and 5th Avenue, New York, N. Y. Another fine collection of European arms is to be seen in the Harding Museum, 4853 Lake Park Avenue, Chicago, 111.

The tracing down of firearms design through the centuries may be the thing for you. While the list of the basic types is short — handcannon, matchlock, wheellock, snaphaunce, flintlock, caplock and metallic cartridge — the ramifications and side departures from the parent models are extremely interesting, and far too numerous for anyone to hope to gather them all. As an example, between the flintlock and the caplock as we know it today, there were upward of 25 different ignition forms offered, patented and made for sale. Some of these — the rare Forsythe scent-bottle and sliding-lock detonators, for instance — are exceedingly interesting and quite valuable.

A Wide Choice

Colt arms of the percussion period interest more collectors, doubtless, than any other single make — and that will stand as the greatest understatement of the year, probably. Prices for Colt arms have risen tremendously since the end of World War II, far surpassing most other makes or types in their percentage increase.

You, the beginning collector, would do well to choose some other field, and unless you are well-heeled you are going to have to keep away from them. But don't let that discourage you at all. There are many relatively untouched branches or fields in gun collecting. You have read enough now, you have familiarized yourself with prices and the directions that collecting is taking. Pick out something that is not getting a lot of attention, make a new trend for yourself, look over the vast field of firearms — and related items — and make your own choice.

Take a good look at long arms, rifles and shotguns. Few people collect these today because of the much greater difficulty of finding space for 50 rifles, say, compared to the same number of handguns. But if space is no problem for you, there's your opportunity. I'll give you an illustration of what can be done in the enhancement of rifle values.

A few short years ago, the now famous “One of One Thousand” Model 1873 and 1876 Winchester rifles were known to only a bare handful of collectors, and they had no special value, $75 to $100 being about all that one would bring. Bill Depperman, then publicity director for Olin Industries, the parent organization for Winchester-Western, floated the story (essentially a publicity release) of these scarce rifles. A tie-in followed with the motion picture “Winchester 73,” and the scramble was on! Now these Model 73s with the magic inscription “One of One Thousand” or”1 of 1,000″ on the barrels are well-nigh worth their weight in gold.

A Few Long Guns

Top - This 19-lb. percussion rifle, shown with false muzzle removed, is signed J. Harding, Lowell, Mass. Cast Steel on the barrel. Nothing is known of this maker so far, yet this is too well made to have been an amateur's effort. The 32 1/2" octagon and 16-sided barrel is 50 caliber. All furniture except fore-end tip is German silver. This 20-lb. rifle carries an oval gold medallion inscribed Presented by the Helvetia Rifle Club of N.Y. to the Third Union Shooting Festival, New York, July 1868. At that time it was probably 45 caliber or larger, yet the barrel is signed George C. Schoyen, Denver, Colo., and the caliber is now 32. The mould and other tools are typically 32-40 cartridge style. The name on the lockplate is E. Phillips, N.Y., presumably the original maker. Emil Berger is engraved on the buttplate, possibly the man who won this rifle in 1868.
Top – This 19-lb. percussion rifle, shown with false muzzle removed, is signed J. Harding, Lowell, Mass. Cast Steel on the barrel. Nothing is known of this maker so far, yet this is too well made to have been an amateur's effort. The 32 1/2″ octagon and 16-sided barrel is 50 caliber. All furniture except fore-end tip is German silver. This 20-lb. rifle carries an oval gold medallion inscribed Presented by the Helvetia Rifle Club of N.Y. to the Third Union Shooting Festival, New York, July 1868. At that time it was probably 45 caliber or larger, yet the barrel is signed George C. Schoyen, Denver, Colo., and the caliber is now 32. The mould and other tools are typically 32-40 cartridge style. The name on the lockplate is E. Phillips, N.Y., presumably the original maker. Emil Berger is engraved on the buttplate, possibly the man who won this rifle in 1868.

My own collection, some 300-350 arms, is primarily a rifle collection, though about 75 handguns are contained in the total. With that many long arms, you can readily believe that I know something about the space needed to store and display them! Most of these rifles are of American make, running from the flintlock “Kentucky” and early U. S. martial rifles through light to heavy percussion rifles of both hunting and target types, and on to early metallic cartridge rifles — the Sharps, Ballards, Winchesters, Peabody-Martinis, Stevens, and many others of single-shot form as well as numerous lever-action repeaters.

The bulk of these latter rifles are engraved and fancy specimens of the sporting and target models. Perhaps the most interesting rifle in my collection is a Sharps Model 1874 sidehammer, custom made by Frank W. Freund for Pierre Lorillard II, the founder of Tuxedo Park and a noted hunter-rifleman of his day, the 1870s and 80s. Freund was a German immigrant who worked at Cheyenne, Wyoming, and elsewhere in the West, becoming famous as a frontier gunsmith.

A prolific inventor, he was granted nearly 30 patents in the space of a dozen years, and the Lorillard rifle contains several of his patented features as well as his skillful engraving and the motto “American Frontier” incised on the frame. My most recent acquisition is a magnificent rifle in nearly new condition by the most famous of English gunmakers, Joe Manton of London. This is a tube-lock rifle of 54 caliber, made about 1822, complete in its mahogany case with all accessories; powder flask, bullet mould, greased linen patches, cleaning implements, etc., etc.

The tube-lock is an interesting form of ignition, occurring between the flintlock and the thimble-like percussion cap, and Manton was granted a British Patent on this form in 1818. The tube itself is a thin copper cylinder, about one-tenth inch in diameter and three-fourths of an inch long, filled with a detonating compound. Closed at one end, the open end is held into the touch-hole or flash-hole of the barrel by the clamp-like jaws of the lock work. On pulling the trigger, the hammer nose crushes the tube, and the flame of the ignited mixture fires the main charge of black powder.

The Lure of Collecting

Many gun collectors find their greatest enjoyment in the chase — the actual acquirement of the long-sought gun is frequently something of an anti-climax. This is not surprising — comes the first rumors of the existence of an arm rare and long desired; the efforts now to locate it, the additional efforts to prevent it falling into the hands of a rival collector, the correspondence entailed in inducing the often reluctant owner to sell or trade it, the final reaching (not unusually through good old fashioned haggling) of a mutually agreeable price.

All of these things carry varying degrees of uncertainty, so that the ultimate possession of the gun itself is, to a degree, a letdown. We've all been through it scores of times, but our interest and enthusiasm continues unabated, and so will it be with you. Mr. Herman P. Dean, of Huntington, W. Va. was, until recently, the owner of what was probably the finest collection of early American arms in the world. Not long ago he gave most of them away — a good part of his collection went to the Huntington Museum, others went to his many friends, and he kept a few that he couldn't bring himself to part with. Mr. Dean says that he is through collecting, but I have an idea that he will start again, full of renewed enthusiasm, to acquire a new gun collection.

But the best part of gun collecting, I think, is the relaxation it offers, the chance to meet and make friends of so many fine people. Many enjoyable and profitable hours can be spent at the numerous gun collectors meetings; in visits to other collectors, to museums and various gun displays; time can be well spent in reading and studying the lore and background of firearms. Many gun collectors — and other collectors too, of course — today find their hobby a welcome distraction from the pressure of modern living, a means of taking themselves out of the day to day monotony of their bread and butter jobs. Gun collecting is an avocation for leisure hours, and the pursuit of it invites repose, contemplation and — at least temporarily — a release from worry and care.

Rock Island Auction Sees Strong Sales

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Two shotguns including a Belgium Browning Commemorative and a Savage Arms Model 24E over/under rifle shotgun $4,313
Two shotguns including a Belgium Browning Commemorative and a Savage Arms Model 24E over/under rifle shotgun $4,313

Regional sales at RIAC contain more affordable antiques and beginning collector’s items that normally attract “regional” bidders (people within a five hour driving radius). However, the two-day sale drew bids from all over the country, bidders traveled from as far away as Australia.

The top sellers include a Smith & Wesson number three old model Russian revolver with shoulder stock that sold for $8,050 and three barreled Sharps Receivers which sold for $6,900.

Custom Engraved Black Powder Colt Single Action Army Revolver with Case $4,313
Custom Engraved Black Powder Colt Single Action Army Revolver with Case $4,313

Collectors drove the price on a rare first model Virginia manufactured flintlock musket with bayonet to $6,325.

A deluxe Winchester model 1886 lever action rifle with 40-82 chambering brought an above estimate price of $3,450.

A breech loading brass cannon drew bidding interest and fetched a price of $4,600.

U.S. military also did very well bringing $3,737 for a U.S. Saginaw carbine with paratrooper stock.

Beginning and mid-level collectors also saw opportunities to fill their collections. A consecutively serial numbered pair of Roosevelt commemorative Winchester 94s sold for $1,840 and Colt buntline special single action revolver with holster and extra grips brought $1,725. Sportsmen saw bidding opportunities in a Parker Bros V grade double barrel boxlock shotgun reached $1,955.

Rock Island expects to build upon the success of the regional sale with a Fall Premiere Auction to be held September 11, 12 and 13. This auction will offer firearms for every level of collecting including Colts, Winchesters, U.S., European and Japanese military, deringers and hundreds of fine sporting arms.

The sale will feature firearms from the Roy Rogers and Dale Evans museum. Other famous and historical firearms associated with Walter Earp, William F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody, William “Bill” Tilghman, Turner Kirkland, John Hart “The Lone Ranger” and Arvo Ojala “Gunsmoke” plus Texas Rangers, Western Sheriffs and more.

The sporting collection of E. Warner Bacon will be offered with many scarce and high conditioned Ithacas. There are also over 50 Model 70’s, several desirable calibers, many in original boxes Also included in this auction is an impressive Victorian collection of gambling items, spurs, saloon pieces, ivory canes, advertising signs and collectables. Visit www.rockislandauction.com for more information.

Prices shown include 15% buyer's premium.

Antique Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $700.00 – $900.00

Winchester Model 1894 Lever Action Sporting Rifle    $700.00 – $900.00

Two Winchester Lever Action Rifles -A) Winchester Third Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $1,000.00 – $1,400.00
Winchester Model 1892 Lever Action Sporting Rifle    $1,000.00 – $1,400.00

Two Winchester Lever Action Rifles -A) Winchester Third Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $1,100.00 – $1,700.00

Smith & Wesson Number Three Old Model Russian Revolver with Shoulder Stock  $8,050
Smith & Wesson Number Three Old Model Russian Revolver with Shoulder Stock  $8,050

Winchester Model 1892 Lever Action Rifle    $1,100.00 – $1,700.00

Two Winchester Long Guns -A) Winchester Model 94 Lever Action Carbine    $600.00 – $1,000.00
Winchester Model 94 Lever Action Rifle    $600.00 – $1,000.00

Two Winchester Lever Action Rifles -A) Early Production Antique Winchester Model 1892 Lever Action Rifle    $1,000.00 – $1,500.00

Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $1,000.00 – $1,500.00

Two Colt Lightning Slide Action Rifles -A) Colt Lightning Slide Action Medium Frame Rifle    $800.00 – $1,200.00
Colt Lightning Medium Frame Slide Action Rifle    $800.00 – $1,200.00

Two Antique Winchester Lever Action Rifles -A) Winchester Model 1892 Lever Action Rifle    $650.00 – $850.00
Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $650.00 – $850.00

Winchester Model 1894 Lever Action Rifle    $600.00 – $1,000.00

Two Winchester Model 1894 Lever Action Rifles -A) Winchester Model 1894 Lever Action Rifle    $600.00 – $1,000.00
Third Winchester Model 1873 in Scarce 22 Long Caliber    $1,500.00 – $2,000.00

Deluxe Winchester Model 1886 Lever Action Rifle with 40-82 Chambering and Special Order Features    $1,300.00 – $1,800.00

Winchester Model 1886 Lever Action Rifle    $1,200.00 – $1,800.00

Winchester Model 71 Deluxe Lever Action Rifle with Sling    $900.00 – $1,300.00

Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $1,000.00 – $1,300.00

Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Musket    $1,000.00 – $1,200.00

Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $900.00 – $1,200.00

Winchester Model 1873 Lever Action Rifle    $700.00 – $1,100.00

Colt Lightning Medium Frame Slide Action Rifle    $700.00 – $1,100.00

For more prices realized, visit www.rockislandauction.com.


Get the gun collector's reference guide for pricing and values. Get the gun collector's reference guide for pricing and values. Buy the 2009 Standard Catalog of Firearms »

 

Committee OKs Sotomayor for High Court

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WASHINGTON – The Senate Judiciary Committee on Tuesday voted to approve Sonia Sotomayor as the first Hispanic Supreme Court justice over nearly solid Republican opposition, paving the way for a historic confirmation vote next week.

The panel voted 13-6 in favor of Sotomayor, with just one Republican, Sen. Lindsey Graham of South Carolina, joining Democrats to support her. The nearly party-line tally masked deeper political divisions within GOP ranks about confirming President Barack Obama first high court nominee.

“I'm deciding to vote for a woman I would not have chosen,” Graham said. Obama's choice to nominate the first-ever Latina to the highest court is “a big deal,” he added, declaring that, “America has changed for the better with her selection.”

The National Rifle Association is opposing Sotomayor and took the extraordinary step last week of warning senators that it would include their votes on her confirmation in its annual candidate ratings, meaning a “yes” vote would hurt their standing.

‘A liberal judicial activism’
“Some of her decisions demonstrated the kind of results-oriented decision-making, one that suggests perhaps a liberal judicial activism that has too often steered the court in the wrong direction over the last years,” said Sen. John Cornyn, R-Texas. Read more

Source: msnbc

Gun Digest Gun Rights Forum »

Brownells M4/M16 Magazine Contract Delivery Begins

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The 30-round magazines incorporate a new follower design, and were thoroughly tested before deliveries began.

Said company CEO Frank Brownell, “Every one of the test magazines has to function with 100 percent reliability, the first time. You don’t get to try again and if one mag fails, the entire lot has to be destroyed. Ours passed the test and I’m very proud of everyone involved.”

This is Brownells’ second military magazine contract.

AR15 TNW Gas Piston System

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New TNW System reduces AR-15 stress

TNW has developed a low-pressure, long-stroke gas piston design to keep from “hammering” the bolt as the short stroke designs do.

The new system slows the acceleration of the bolt mass and instead accelerates it over a greater distance. The result is less shock forces on the system, longer lasting parts and reliable feeding.

The system is user-friendly and maintenance can be performed at the operator level.

For more information, visit www.TNWfirearms.com.

Gun Review: Patriot Ordnance P415

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The P415 takes AR reliability to a whole new levelCan you believe it? An AR-15 that will fire 100,000 rounds without a cleaning? The Patriot Ordnance P415 is passing unthinkable tests.

Revolutionary is a word that is used all too frequently, but sometimes it is about the only word that fits.

Suppose we told you that we had extensively tested an AR-based carbine that didn’t need lubrication? And suppose we told you that it really didn’t need regular cleaning, either? Finally, suppose we told you that this new AR would run over 20,000 rounds without regular maintenance or a single malfunction?

You’d probably think that Cutshaw needed to turn himself in for a drug test. Such an AR upgrade exists as either a “drop on” upper receiver or a complete carbine. Don Alexander, Co-Director of Training at SHD Consulting and Special Forces personnel in Afghanistan have used it extensively.

The figures that follow are Alexander’s, not mine. Alexander set out to shoot the P415 upper receivers he got from Patriot Ordnance Factory (POF) without cleaning or lubing them until they started to malfunction. He never made it.

Alexander’s rifle was cleaned for the first time after 16,000 rounds, not because the P415 needed it, but because he was teaching a course for the State Department that mandated a class on cleaning and maintenance. In a memo to Frank Desomma, President of POF, Alexander stated that he had yet to experience a single malfunction except one that was attributable to a faulty magazine very early in his use of the P415 upper. Alexander, a retired US Army Special Forces Chief Warrant Officer with 26 years’ experience, is not one to make statements such as these lightly or in jest.

Our experience with a P415 matches Alexander’s – our long-term test P415 that we have used extensively since 2006 has yet to require cleaning or lubrication other than an occasional wipe down with a dry shop towel. Since Alexander’s testing, US Army Special Forces units have used POF carbines extensively in Afghanistan and have found them to be totally reliable, not to mention accurate. There have even been reports of troops putting over 100,000 rounds through their POF carbines without significant maintenance.

POF’s AR-type carbine is unlike any other. Externally, the most obvious difference between the P415 and others is the patented P-4SX upper receiver that not only features an uninterrupted full length MIL-STD-1913 top rail and rails at the handguard sides and bottom, but also free floats the barrel, enabling mounting accessories without affecting the carbine’s zero.

The latest POF carbines have a “spine” atop the upper receiver rather than a MIL-STD-1913 rail that allows the one piece P-4SX receiver/handguard to be slid into place and retained with bolts, essentially making for a rigid two-piece upper receiver. The P415 barrel is fluted along its entire length for rigidity and heat dissipation. The flutes offer a greater surface area, so heat is more rapidly dispersed than with standard heavy barrels. Flutes also stiffen the barrel and improve accuracy by reducing barrel vibration as the rifle is fired.

The barrel bore is nitrided, which makes for a surface that approaches diamond hardness and prevents fouling because nothing can adhere to it. Fit and finish of the P415 are excellent. We were particularly impressed with the mating of upper and lower receivers with absolutely no “play” whatsoever. POF’s P415 is one of the best-assembled AR-type rifles we have ever seen.

One of the major differences between the P415 and any other is the patented gas system that eliminates the inherent problems associated with Stoner’s original design. The original AR direct impingement gas system not only blows large amounts of fouling and particulate matter back into the receiver, but also causes excessive heat to be transferred to the receiver area in rapid semiautomatic or full automatic fire.

There have been attempts to solve the AR’s gas system issues in the past, but POF is one of the most innovative and successful. The P415 gas system consists of a FAL-type gas cylinder plug, a chrome-lined gas cylinder with a chrome-plated stainless steel piston and operating rod that impinges against a reinforced bolt carrier key.

Unlike some other “op rod” systems, there are no springs on the P415 rod. Heat from sustained firing may damage springs that surround op rods that are in close proximity to the barrel. This is especially true in select-fire rifles. The P415 gas system is self-regulating, so any type of ammo can be used. The P415 system can be easily and quickly disassembled by simply pressing in on the gas cylinder plug button while rotating the plug clockwise.

Once the plug is removed, the piston and operating rod fall out when the muzzle is pointed down. Reassembly is accomplished simply by dropping the rod and piston back into the gas cylinder with the muzzle pointed up. The plug fits only one way and cannot be incorrectly reassembled. All that is necessary is to push the plug into place, press the locking button and rotate the plug counterclockwise.

Another notable feature is that the P415 is completely ambidextrous. Most ARs require the use of both hands to change magazines and get the carbine back into action because the magazine release is on the right side of the receiver and the bolt release is on the left. Not the P415. While the P415 has the standard magazine release and bolt stop, a separate bolt release has been added on the right side just above the magazine release.

All that is necessary to change magazines and get back in the fight is to drop the empty mag, insert a loaded one and press the bolt stop located just above the magazine release using the trigger finger. The bolt release is slightly to the rear of the mag release as well, so the chance of inadvertently dropping the mag instead of the bolt is minimized.

After using ARs with the original direct gas impingement system, P415 maintenance is a true revelation. While conventional AR receivers fill with fouling and particulate matter after a few rounds, the P415 remains relatively clean even after extensive firing. There is no carbon fouling or caked carbon to be found on the bolt or in the bolt carrier recesses.

In short, the P415 is much easier and simpler to maintain than any AR-type rifle with the usual direct impingement system. All that is necessary to clean a P415 is to wipe the receiver’s interior, bolt carrier and bolt with a dry shop towel to remove any fouling. Also, the gas system should be periodically disassembled and cleaned, since it takes the brunt of hot gases from the barrel. Any carbon buildup on the gas piston or op rod can be removed with a Scotch Brite pad.

But the improved gas system isn’t the end of the story with the P415. The changes that allow the P415 to run without lubrication are a chrome plated bolt carrier and bolt coupled with NP 3 plating on the receiver’s interior and on the charging handle. Nothing sticks to either surface and they are self-lubricating. Eliminating the need for lubrication that becomes a “dust magnet” in an environment like that of Iraq or Afghanistan is a truly significant improvement.

Conventional AR gas systems require heavy lubrication in order to function, but due to their affinity for dust, intensive virtually daily maintenance is required. The P415 bolt carrier has been modified for increased reliability and accuracy. The bolt carrier surfaces that ride on the upper receiver are somewhat larger than conventional ones, while maintaining recesses to accommodate any fouling that might accumulate. The cam pin has a roller that rides in the upper receiver recess for even smoother operation and reliability. The chamber, barrel locking lugs and interior are also chrome plated, also enhancing reliability.

All POF carbines come equipped with Vltor’s Modstock. The Modstock is available in several colors and configurations, including black, coyote tan and OD green. There are two collapsible Modstocks – standard and “clubfoot.” The clubfoot facilitates using the off hand to pull the stock into the shoulder for greater stability. Unlike most others, Vltor’s waterproof compartments can be accessed with the stock on the carbine. The compartment adapters provide a flat surface for an excellent cheek weld. The Vltor Modstock is extremely comfortable and thus enhances accuracy. It also raises one’s line of sight to an ideal level for either open sights or optics. The improvements don’t end with comfort and utility, though. Vltor also redesigned the latch on both standard and clubfoot configured stocks for more positive engagement.

POF’s P415 breaks new ground in the world of AR-type carbines most of which are so similar that even experts cannot tell the difference between one and another without close inspection. The P415’s innovative “gas piston/op rod” significantly advances the “state of the art” in AR-type firearms and not only adds flexibility to the overall system, but improves both reliability and maintainability over any of its conventional competitors.

Add to that the ability to operate without lubrication of any kind, minimal maintenance and the result is a truly revolutionary design. In the final analysis, the P415’s innovations are among the most significant developments in AR type rifles since they were originally designed over 50 years ago. For those who want a larger caliber AR, POF also manufactures ARs with the same advanced features as the P415 in both 6.6mm SPC and .308. Welcome to the AR of the 21st Century!

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:
POF USA, Inc.
23623 N 67th Avenue
Glendale, AZ 85310
Tel: 623-561-9572
www.POF-USA.com

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