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Inside this issue:
– The evolution of varmint rifles – Trijicon's new Accupoint Tactical scope – Handloading for the .30-30 – Trends of values for rifles, shotguns and handguns – Guns for sale: Extensive classified listings
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Presentation-inscribed Metropolitan Arms Company, New York. 36-caliber; 5-shot percussion revolver with 4 1/2-inch barrel.
The hazard of fire is also ever-present. Not a few articles have been written on insurance; the subject is well covered in the James E. Serven book TheCollecting of Guns and in several American Rifleman articles. In broadest terms, antique and collectors’ firearms are not best covered under the most commonly used “Home Owners” policies.
In most circumstances under that type coverage, a maximum fixed percentage (usually 10 percent) of the total value of the policy would apply to items such as firearms. Also, a limit or maximum dollar value would be set for any one piece, coverage generally applies only to guns actually on the premises and claims most often are paid on an actual cash or cost basis or even according to replacement cost less depreciation.
Highly ornate Colt single-action 45-caliber revolver covered with cattle brand motifs by the well-known engraver Cole Agee. Chrome-plated finish (as occasionally seen on handguns used in films) with silver-mounted ivory grips. (As illustrated in The Peacemakers; Arms and Adventure in the American West, courtesy of the author)
Establishing some of these factors often entails considerable administrative as well as emotional problems after a loss has occurred. Special waivers and riders can cover some contingencies, but experience has shown that collectors rarely bother to adequately investigate their coverage for antique and collectors’ guns under a Home Owner’s policy.
The result is very much a case of closing the barn door after the horse has gone. One of the best and broadest types of coverage for antique and collectors’ firearms is under policies known as “Fine Arts Floaters.” Any good, knowledgeable insurance agent will be familiar with them. A number of attractive plans are even offered by some of the larger collecting organizations.
The key feature of the Fine Arts policy is the fact that each and every gun in the collection is itemized and valued and kept on record with the insurance company and agent. These policies normally have provisions allowing for coverage even when the guns are on exhibit at a show and in transit. Should a loss occur, settlements are normally quicker and are generally for the amount on the scheduled list.
It is, of course, quite necessary to continually update the schedule as prices change, or as items are bought or sold. Coverage under Fine Arts policies has not only been found to be broad in scope, but often features advantageous rates. They are well worth investigating.
Large Civil War-era Starr Arms Company, New York, single-action Model 1863 percussion 44-caliber revolver; an example of very earliest production with extremely low serial #15; entirely unmarked and with a distinct civilian-type blued finish (versus the less brilliant, somewhat duller, most often encountered military blued finish). Checkered one-piece ivory grips. Cased in original factory walnut box with red velvet compartment type lining, and original accessories and literature. Note: The great bulk of production of Starr revolvers was acquired by U.S. Army for military issuance during the Civil War.
APPRAISALS Professional appraisals are often important in establishing values for antique and collectors’ guns. Such evaluations are specified requirements for some insurance policies, for any estate and gift tax purposes, for tax plans of various types and damage and loss claims. They play an important role in determining originality of a collector’s item, by supplying a professional opinion in writing.
The key to acceptability of the values or opinions stated in an appraisal by the party to whom they are submitted are the credentials and background of the appraiser. It is a simple matter to find anyone with the slightest knowledge of guns and have them write an evaluation, pulling figures out of the air so to speak; all that is needed is a typewriter and paper.
However, the collector should well understand and remember that those evaluations are subject to review by quite a few official parties before acceptability and that one of the major features scrutinized is the credentials of the appraiser; his experience within the field of guns (not merely a general antiques appraiser) and his reputation are principal factors.
Major appraisers associations are able to furnish lists of recognized experts whose specialty is firearms. A number of well-known dealers in the antique arms field are quite well qualified and handle evaluations as part of their normal business routine. Appraisal fees vary considerably and are dependent upon the qualifications and credentials of the appraiser, his expertise and professional affiliations, and, of course, his location.
Fees are often based upon hourly and daily rates or on a flat rate based on quantity involved. The common practice of charging a percentage of the appraised value of the item or collection is looked upon unfavorably. It is no longer in use by most major auction houses and is actually forbidden in the bylaws of some major appraisers’ associations.
The 2015 Standard Catalog of Firearms, 25th Edition is the preferred desk reference guide to the realm of antique, vintage, and modern firearms from around the world, and is now in its 25th edition with more than 26,000 listings of collectible and modern firearms. This industry-leading reference on firearms valuation and pricing has everything you need, whether you’re looking to buy, sell, or collect firearms.
These ivory-gripped examples are still striking, after more than a century since they were first manufactured. From top: six-shot 32-caliber Sprague and Marston with barrels bored from a single piece of steel; six-shot folding trigger 30-caliber pinfire with Belgian proofmarks; six-shot 32-caliber percussion pepperbox with ring trigger, maker unknown.
Firearms have been admired and coveted, not only for their usefulness, but also for their grace and beauty. Since the beginning of the 19th century, firearms makers have adorned their guns with engraving, fine woods, or special order features that set their products apart from the rest. There is no feasible way to give the collector every possible variation of the firearms presented in this book. However, in a general way, certain special factors will significantly influence the price of a firearm.
Perhaps the most recognizable special feature collectors agree affects the price of a firearm is engraving. The artistry, beauty, and intricate nature of engraving draw all collectors toward it. But, firearms engraving is a field unto itself requiring years of experience to determine proper chronological methods and the ability to identify the engraver in question. Factory engraving generally brings more of a premium than after-market engraving.
To be able to determine factory work is a difficult task, full of pitfalls. In some cases, factories like Colt and Winchester may have records to verify original factory engraving work. Whereas other manufacturers such as Parker, Remington, or Savage may not have these records. Whenever a firearm purchase is to be made with respect to an engraved gun, it is in the collector’s best interest to secure an expert opinion and/or a factory letter prior to the purchase. Engraved firearms are expensive. A mistake could cost the collector thousands of dollars; proceed with caution.
The 18th century was also a time when pistols and rifles were purchased by or given to historically important individuals. Firearms have also been an important part of significant historical events such as the Battle of the Little Bighorn or the Battle of Bull Run or some other meaningful event in our nation’s history. Many of these firearms are in museums where the public can enjoy, see and appreciate them. Others are in private collections that seldom, if ever, are offered for sale. If the collector should ever encounter one of these historically important firearms, it cannot be stressed strongly enough to secure an expert determination as to authenticity. Museum curators are perhaps the best source of information for these types of firearms. As with engraved guns, historical firearms are usually expensive, and without documentation their value is questionable.
Special features and variations are also a desirable part of firearms collecting. As with engraving, special order guns can bring a considerable premium. The Colt factory has excellent records regarding its firearms and will provide the collector with a letter of authenticity. Winchester records are not as comprehensive, but rifles made prior to 1908 may have documentation. Other firearm manufacturers either do not have records or do not provide the collector with documentation. This leaves the collector in a difficult position. Special order sights, stocks, barrel lengths, calibers, and so forth must be judged on their own merits. As with other factors, an expert should be consulted prior to purchase. Sometimes this can be difficult.
Experienced collectors, researchers, and museums will generally provide the kind of information a collector needs before purchasing a special order or unique firearm. Perhaps the best advice is for the collector to take his time.
Do not be in a hurry, and do not allow yourself to be rushed into making a decision. Learn as much as possible about the firearms you are interested in collecting or shooting. Try to keep current with prices through Gun List and this publication. Go to gun shows, not just to buy or sell, but to observe and learn. It is also helpful to join a firearms club or association. These groups have older, experienced collectors who are glad to help the beginner or veteran.
The William A. Jones Collection also contains many notable long arms. Here are three beauties (above). From top: pristine, unfired Jenks “Mule Ear” carbine; 320-caliber Smith & Wesson Revolving Rifle; brass-frame 1860 Henry repeating rifle with original cleaning rod still in butt compartment.
All grading systems are subjective. It is our task to offer the collector and dealer a measurement that most closely reflects a general consensus on condition. The system we present seems to come closest to describing a firearm in universal terms. We strongly recommend that the reader acquaint himself with this grading system before attempting to determine the correct price for a particular firearm’s condition.
Remember, in most cases condition determines price.
NIB—New in Box This category can sometimes be misleading. It means that the firearm is in its original factory carton with all of the appropriate papers. It also means the firearm is new; that it has not been fired and has no wear. This classification brings a substantial premium for both the collector and shooter.
Excellent Collector quality firearms in this condition are highly desirable. The firearm must be in at least 98 percent condition with respect to blue wear, stock or grip finish, and bore. The firearm must also be in 100 percent original factory condition without refinishing, repair, alterations or additions of any kind. Sights must be factory original as well. This grading classification includes both modern and antique (manufactured prior to 1898) firearms.
Very Good Firearms in this category are also sought after both by the collector and shooter. Modern firearms must be in working order and retain approximately 92 percent original metal and wood finish. It must be 100 percent factory original, but may have some small repairs, alterations, or non-factory additions. No refinishing is permitted in this category. Antique firearms must have 80 percent original finish with no repairs.
Good Modern firearms in this category may not be considered to be as collectible as the previous grades, but antique firearms are considered desirable. Modern firearms must retain at least 80 percent metal and wood finish, but may display evidence of old refinishing. Small repairs, alterations, or non-factory additions are sometimes encountered in this class. Factory replacement parts are permitted. The overall working condition of the firearm must be good as well as safe. The bore may exhibit wear or some corrosion, especially in antique arms. Antique firearms may be included in this category if their metal and wood finish is at least 50 percent original factory finish.
Fair Firearms in this category should be in satisfactory working order and safe to shoot. The overall metal and wood finish on the modern firearm must be at least 30 percent and antique firearms must have at least some original finish or old re-finish remaining. Repairs, alterations, nonfactory additions, and recent refinishing would all place a firearm in this classification. However, the modern firearm must be in working condition, while the antique firearm may not function. In either case the firearm must be considered safe to fire if in a working state.
Poor Neither collectors nor shooters are likely to exhibit much interest in firearms in this condition. Modern firearms are likely to retain little metal or wood finish. Pitting and rust will be seen in firearms in this category. Modern firearms may not be in working order and may not be safe to shoot. Repairs and refinishing would be necessary to restore the firearm to safe working order. Antique firearms will have no finish and will not function. In the case of modern firearms their principal value lies in spare parts. On the other hand, antique firearms in this condition may be used as “wall hangers” or as an example of an extremely rare variation or have some kind of historical significance.
This article appeared in the 2010 Standard Catalog of Firearms.
Gun Digest is the source for firearms news, pricing and guns for sale. Readers benefit from in-depth editorial expert advice, show reviews and practical how-to instructions. With your Subscription, you'll also learn about threats to your Second Amendment rights. Click here to begin your subscription to Gun Digest.
Inside this issue:
– The AR-15 rescues a machine shop – Midwest Tactical AK-47 – Thompson/Center Hawken Review – Trends of values for rifles, shotguns and handguns – Guns for sale: Extensive classified listings
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We’ve seen prices on ammo and components rise, supply shrink, and the ever-present threat of some type of government clamp-down on firearms-related products; serious shooters, hunters and ordinary gun-owning citizens need to protect their stocks of these items. With the current political situation in mind, here are a few tips for keeping your handloads and other ammunition safe and reliable.
I am not an alarmist nor do I consider myself paranoid but with all the political insanity that is coming out of Washington I can’t see the liberals holding off on the gun issue much longer, certainly they are mad after the recent court decision on the Chicago gun ban. Actually I’m surprised, given the government-sponsored multi-faceted attack on individual and states’ rights, that some form of attack on firearms ownership has not taken place already. With the administration holding the door open in the Southwest for illegal immigration and given the number of weapons caches uncovered in the Arizona desert, I think it might be a good idea to get the house in order.
Modern primers and gun powder, if properly stored, have a nearly infinite shelf life. Indeed, even the older smokeless powders and black powder can last centuries and still be perfectly usable if they have been stored with care. I have some DuPont black powder made in 1920 that is still as potent and reliable as it was the day it was packaged and some factory ammunition from the very first days of smokeless powder that will still perform. These items have been stored with the three watchwords of care; cool, dry and dark.
By cool we mean stable temperature in the 50 to 80 degree range. Extreme high temperature can cause the deterioration of gun powders over long exposure; we’ve seen it time and again, ammo left on the dashboard and heated to extreme temperatures or frozen and re-heated. The gun won’t work without ammunition; find a place in the home where the temperature is stabilized and you have a good start on proper storage.
“Keep your powder dry” is a phrase all shooters have heard and comes from the days when flintlock firearms ruled the field; it is just as important today as it was 200 years ago. Temperature swings from very low to high and back again causes condensation within modern brass-cased cartridges and renders ammunition inert. It doesn’t take much moisture to ruin a primer (duck hunters know this) and this is one reason I usually don’t recommend the basement for ammo storage, unless some type of dehumidifier is present to balance the humidity.
Not too long ago Ralph Catron and I bought some components and loaded ammunition from a lady who had stored her deceased husband’s firearms related equipment in her basement. The brass and pulled bullets were about all we were able to salvage. Ammo or powder cans that have neoprene seals work well to keep moisture at bay for storing loaded ammo; I do not recommend removing powder from the original packing cans but storing these cans in a wooden cabinet where the temperature and humidity are regulated will guarantee usable and reliable powder for long periods of time.
While the sun is the engine that drives all life it can be the worst enemy of ammunition and gunpowder by virtue of its heating ability. I keep my ammunition in cabinets away from sun exposure for this reason. For obvious reasons don’t leave your ammo on the dashboard of the truck and if you have a window in your handloading room make sure the sun doesn’t settle on your supply of powder and primers while you’re away. Don’t discount the heating power of the sun; I have the sunburn (smallmouth trip on New River last weekend) to prove it.
There is always some noise about long term storage of ammunition (and firearms) against some perceived insurrection or lawlessness and now there are on the market several storage options for those that wish to bury the evidence, so to speak, from simple cache tubes made of PVC or aluminum to sophisticated air-tight lockers that can be purged of air and pumped full of dry nitrogen.
A little common sense can go a long way in this regard; I’m reminded of the Confederate command that stored a few hundred muskets in caves in Southwest Virginia, a damp and gunmetal-unfriendly environment, for future use that were lost and later discovered in the early 1940’s, still operational and indeed in wonderful condition. The guns were heavily greased before storage, metal and wood, and stored in wooden barrels sealed with a mixture of wax and tallow. Gunpowder kegs had been stored within larger wooden barrels, also sealed with the wax/tallow, and the outside of the kegs themselves had been coated with the wax/tallow mixture. The powder was just as good as the day it was stored.
If you are going to put your ammunition away for a period of time look into the military surplus ammo cans with the neoprene seal rings, these work great if they are kept in a dry environment and protected from sudden swings in temperature. The military powder cans that have the same rubber seal rings (I use one to store my turkey calls) also work great, but don’t hold a heck of a lot.
I still like the good old heavy wooden cabinet, with proper locks, for ammo storage and for Pete’s sake, make sure you label your ammo when you put it away. If you’re like me, the memory isn’t what it used to be; and if you decide to bury your guns and ammo, just send me the map, I’ll look after it for you.
The scale must be on a rock steady table. A table that wiggles just isn’t going to cut it. If your bench doesn’t have adjustable feet, place shims under the legs. Remember to protect your scale by taking it off the bench before hammering any shims into place.
Even if the table doesn't wiggle, vibrations through the table can effect measurements. If possible, move the scale to a separate table that is isolated from the press vibrations. If that is not possible, make sure that you aren’t doing anything else while weighing. The press may not be the only source of vibrations. I've seen more than one or two reloading benches sharing a room with the clothes washer and dryer.
The wife doing laundry while you are dialing in a powder weight is not a good idea. Just how you go about getting her cooperation on this is a whole other can of worms! Analytical labs place their scales on heavy marble or granite tables. The mass of the stone slab absorbs vibration. But these are too large and expensive for the average reloading bench.
I’ve also seen anti-vibration foam pads that you place under your scale to absorb vibrations. Before you buy one, just try an old mouse pad and see if it helps. I took both concepts, combined them, and designed my own anti-vibration pad. I took a brick, set it on an old mouse pad and placed my scale on top. It works and costs practically nothing.
Tip #2: Leveling
I originally thought this would be the first and most critical step of this list. As it turns out, leveling is not as critical as I would have thought with modern electronic powder scales. Many don’t even have adjustable leveling feet, just three or four fixed feet.
If your bench is level enough that bullets aren’t constantly rolling off the edge, it is probably okay. But if you needed to shim the feet to make the bench stop rocking in Tip #1, you may as well take the time to level it while you are there. If you do want to check that your scale is level, buy a small bubble level that you can place directly on the weighing pan. Make sure it is the right size to rest flat on the pan and that it doesn’t weigh more than your scale’s capacity. I bought a lightweight, plastic bubble level at Home Depot for less than three dollars. Leave the scale turned off while leveling.
Tip #3: Batteries and AC Power
A weak battery can make an electronic powder scale give erroneous readings long before it ever goes dead or gives a low battery warning. I load a fresh battery in my scale every six months or so and use the old battery for some other less critical application. Buy a good quality battery. This is not the place to use a cheap batter.
Most plastic pans that I’ve used leave much to be desired. Fortunately there are alternatives.
Don’t substitute one of the new lithium batteries if the recommended battery is an alkaline. This could actually damage the scale’s electronics if not designed for it. Additionally, the low battery indicator circuit is calibrated for the specific battery type. It may not warn you when the battery is low if you use something other than the recommended type. Check the instructions for the recommended battery type.
If nothing is mentioned, you should use the same type of battery that it came with. Of course, you can always call the manufacturer and ask them what battery type they recommend. If your scale came with an AC Adapter, by all means use it. It will allow you to leave the scale on for extended periods without worrying about the battery going dead in the middle of a reloading session. However, you should be aware that the inexpensive “wall wart” powder adapters are not “regulated” and can pass on any line voltage fluctuations to your scale resulting in instability. If your scale is acting unstable and you are using the power adapter, try running off batteries (use fresh batteries please) and see if it improves.
Tip #4: Warm-up time
Warm-up time can affect the scale's measurement stability. Some scales can take as long as 30 minutes to warm up to a stable internal temperature, especially if the room is unusually cold. With an AC powdered scale, you can just leave it on while you are making other preparations. If your scale has an Auto-Off feature, you may need to disable it or set it for a longer time if possible.
Battery powered scales may not allow long warm-up periods especially if it is one that drains batteries quickly. In that case, allow 30 to 60 seconds warm up time, keep the room temperature as stable as possible before starting a reloading session and use the zero button before every weight measurement.
Tip #5: Calibration
Those check weights that come with most scales aren't just for looks. Use them! I check my scale calibration every time I set up for a reloading session. It is a good way to tell if your scale has warmed up and is ready to use. You should also check calibration if the scale has been moved (like to your shooting buddy’s house), is being operating at a significantly different temperature than when it was last calibrated, and after you change the battery.
If you just bought a new scale, checking the calibration is the first thing you should do before using the scale. Perform the calibration procedure as described in the owner’s manual only if the calibration is off. But before deciding to perform calibration, make absolutely certain the scale has had a chance to warm up and the readings are stable. You may find that after sufficient warm up time, calibration will not be needed.
Always use the calibration weight(s) that came with your scale. Depending on the resolution of the scale, the “class” of calibration weight(s) that come with it will vary. In the United States, three classifications are used:
– ASTM E 617-97, Classes 0 through 7 – OIML R111, classes: E1, E2, F1, F2, M1, M2, M3. – NIST Class F; (Only used for commercial weights & measures testing)
A 50g Class 6 calibration weight can vary by as much as ±7mg (±0.007g / ±0.107grain) and a 100g calibration weight can very by as much as ±10mg (±0.010g / ±0.154grain). That doesn’t sound like much but when you are calibrating your scale, it can make a significant difference if you use the calibration weight from another scale.
No serious reloader should be without a copy of the ABCs of Reloading. Click here to get yours.
Scales with higher resolution typically require a calibration weight with tighter specifications. For instance, the UniqueTek High-Precision Electronic Powder Scale, which has a resolution of 0.02 grains (0.001g), comes with a 20g calibration weight rated Class F2 (OIML Class F2 fits in between ASTM Class 3 and Class 4). For a 20g calibration weight, the allowable tolerance is only 0.8mg (0.0008g) compared to a Class 6 tolerance of 3.0mg (0.003g). If I substituted a 20g calibration weight from another scale that was not made to meet the Class F2 standard, my calibration could be off.
So why not just buy a calibration weight set made to tighter tolerances? In short, cost! I was given a set of calibration weights made by Ohaus. They are brass weights rated Class 6 and sold for about $40.00. The cost of calibration weight sets with tighter tolerance is excessive, especially if you want a set that comes with a certificate documenting the exact value of each calibration weight! Here are some examples:
– Class 6 brass = $40.00 / $139.00 with Certificate – Class 4 stainless steel = $320.00 / $815.00 with Certificate – Class 1 stainless steel = $600.00 / $1225.00 with Certificate
To make things even more difficult, some calibration weights are 2-piece assemblies. They are hollow and have either a plug in the bottom or a handle that is screwed on top. These are purposely manufactured a bit light and then grains of metal are added to calibrate it to the correct mass. If the plug falls out or the handle comes unscrewed and you loose the grains of metal from the inside, your calibration weight is worthless.
Fortunately you can buy individual calibration weights. So if your scale came with a 2-piece calibration weight and it came apart, buy a replacement. I recommend that you contact your scale manufacturer and determine the correct size and tolerance classification of calibration weight for your scale. You can usually buy replacement calibration weights directly from the scale manufacturer.
Tip #6: Air Currents
Some electronic scales come with a cover. On some of these, the cover isn't just to keep dust off when not in use. Some covers are designed to be used during measurements and provide a valuable function by blocking air currents that can affect accuracy (the owners manual will tell you if your cover is intended to be closed during measurements). You can identify covers that are designed to be closed during measurement as they may have a hole in the top. The hole allows you to add powder with the lid already down.
As you can imagine, closing or opening the cover after placing a pan of powder on the scale will likely upset the measurement. A few scales come with a “draft ring,” which is usually a glass ring that fits around the weighing pan to protect it from air currents. Make certain it is in place for all measurements Even if your scale has a draft ring or a cover designed for use during measurements, make sure it is located away from air currents in the room. Or, better yet, make a draft shield on three sides. I made one out of mat board (the stuff on which artists mount photographs).
It is rigid, easy to cut with a utility or X-ACTO® knife, finished on both sides and available in lots of interesting colors. It is cheap and can be found at art & craft stores or office supply stores. Make it tall enough to extend at least 3 inches above the weighing pan. Adding a draft shield may not be enough. I had an air conditioning vent that blew in the direction of the reloading bench and the draft shield just didn't help enough. I finally found an inexpensive plastic deflector at the local hardware store that attached to the face of the wall vent and deflected the airflow away from the reloading bench. Simple, elegant, cheap …. and it worked!
Tip #7: Static Electricity & Magnetic Fields
Static electricity near an electronic scale can affect measurement accuracy just as much as a stray air current. Always use a powder pan made from metal or from static dissipative plastic (e.g. the Lyman Powder Pal™ or RCBS Scale Pan/Powder Funnel). PACT recommends washing their powder pan occasionally with soapy water and allowing the soap film to dry on the pan. The soap film helps dissipate static electricity.
Keep any plastic materials away from the scale, including plastic loading blocks, die storage boxes, ammunition storage boxes, AkroBins and anything made of Styrofoam or vinyl. Keeping a clear space around the scale is generally a good practice anyway. Don't forget the static on your body! Even though the days of the polyester leisure suit are (thankfully) long gone, you may have carpet under your reloading bench.
I'm sure we've all scuffed our shoes across a carpet and then zapped some poor unsuspecting soul with a big arc of static electricity. A static spark to electronic powder scale is not only bad for accuracy; it can destroy the scale’s circuits! Even if you don't build enough charge to cause a spark, you can build enough charge to affect your powder scale’s accuracy.
Fortunately, little anti-static laundry spray (Static Guard) applied to the carpet periodically is very effective. Touching a grounded metal object once in a while will also remove any charge from your body. Scales can also be strongly affected by magnetic fields and electrical interference generated by electronic devices. Don't use a scale near any electronic device such as a computer, monitor, radio, or cell phone. Fluorescent lights can also generate interference. If you are experiencing a problem with your scale, test it with nearby electronics and lights turned off.
Tip #8: Checking Zero
Use that zero (or “tare”) button … frequently! I always zero the scale immediately before every measurement. Some may feel this is overkill, but I feel it is worth the few extra seconds it takes to ensure the best measurement accuracy I can obtain from my scale.
While we are discussing the Tare button, let’s look at just how handy this feature can be. The most basic use is to “tare” the weight of your powder pan so the scale reads 0.0 grains with the empty pan in place and the scale will display the weight of just the powder charge. This same technique can also be used for sorting bullets, cartridge cases or even loaded cartridges.
Example 1: Lets say you want to sort a new batch of bullets by weight relative to a favorite bullet weight you know from a previous test is ideal for your cartridge. If you were smart, you would keep a sample bullet from that earlier batch that is the ideal weight. Keep it wrapped in a piece of soft cloth and in a small bottle with a label on the outside noting the manufacture, type and weight and anything else you want to record. 1. Press Tare to zero the scale. 2. Place the example bullet on the scale and check that it weighs what you expect. 3. With the example bullet still on the scale, press tare to zero the scale then remove the example bullet. 4. Start weighing bullets from the new batch. Bullets that are an exact match will weigh 0.0 grains. Sort the bullets into weight groups depending on how close you need them to be to the example bullet weight.
Example 2: If you have a sneaking suspicion that you may have double charged or not charged a cartridge, just tare the weight of a known good cartridge and then start weighing the suspect cartridges. All the good cartridges should weight 0.0 grains (or very close too it). So all you need to do is look for one that weighs too much or too little by the weight of the powder charge. This greatly speeds up the inspection process!
Place the load (powder pan, bullet, calibration weight, etc,) at the center of the weighing platform. An off center load may cause binding of the load cell resulting in error. Some powder scales have a cup shaped platform that automatically centers the powder pan. But if you are weighing a bullet, loaded cartridge or some other odd-shaped object, try to center it as best as possible.
Tip #10: Cleanliness
Keep your scale clean. Dust and stray powder grains getting into the load cell can bind the mechanism. If your scale comes with a cover, keep it closed when you are not using the scale. The weighing platform can be removed on some scales so you can easily clean underneath. A soft artist’s paintbrush or a gentle puff of air is about all that should be needed to clean it.
Whatever you do, don't flip your scale over and shake it to dislodge dust and powder grains. Shaking could permanently damage the load cell! I keep a can of compressed air at my reloading bench. It is handy for blowing powder grains off the powder scale, as well as off the press, and doesn’t blow with enough force to damage anything. Don’t forget to clean your powder pan.
Over time, a film of powder residue can build up on the powder pan. This can cause powder grains to stick to the pan, and not be transferred to the cartridge case. This is often misinterpreted as static cling and most frequently treated by rubbing the pan with an anti-static clothes drier sheet. Repeated use of drier sheets may also leave residue buildup. Residue buildup happens with both metal and plastic powder pans.
The cure is simple. Just wash the powder pan with a drop of liquid dish soap, rinse thoroughly and let dry. Do not use abrasive soaps or scouring pads. The resulting scratches can cause powder grains to cling.
Tip #11: Powder Pans
The powder pan you use can make a difference too. If the all the powder doesn’t make it into the cartridge, then all your efforts to this point are in vain. My favorite powder pans are the metal pans that commonly come with balance beam type scales (e.g. Dillon Eliminator: Redding No.2 and RS-1; RCBS® Models 502, 505 and 1010; LEE Safety Scale™; Lyman® Pro 500 and Pro 1000; etc.).
Metal powder pans have a few advantages over plastic pans. 1. They don’t hold a static charge 2. They tend to need cleaning less frequently (see Tip #10) 3. Powder grains tend to slide off quite easily 4. They are usually a shiny gold or bare aluminum color, so you can easily see that all powder grains have been transferred to the cartridge case. The gold or silver color also makes inspecting powder grain structure easy. Plastic pans are usually black, and inspecting dull gray particles against a black background is difficult.
If you ever lose your metal powder pan, they can be difficult to find and expensive. And it is highly recommended that you find the same pan that originally came with your balance beam scale. The hanger support is designed to fit the pan exactly, and a pan from another scale probably won’t fit correctly. Your best bet is to call the manufacturer and get the pan that originally came with your scale.
If that isn’t possible, try to get the pan and hanger from another scale. Most electronic powder scales come with plastic powder pans (Lyman is one exception). Most plastic pans that I’ve used leave much to be desired. Fortunately there are alternatives. If you have an old balance beam scale packed away, just use the metal pan. If you don’t happen to have a metal powder pan, the best plastic powder pans I’ve found are:
– Lyman® Powder Pal™ – RCBS® Scale Pan/Funnel
Both are made of anti-static plastic and have a unique feature of combining a scale pan with a powder funnel. I think that the RCBS product has a slight advantage because it also has a conventional pour spout. But either one will serve you well.
The best part is that they cost around $7 (versus $16-$20 for a metal pan). One caveat … they are not recommended for use on a balance beam scale. Not sure just why that is, but it is most likely because the scale “zero” adjustment may not have enough range to adjust for the difference in weight between the metal and plastic pans. The plastic powder pan is also unlikely to fit the hanger.
If your scale has a cover that is to be closed during weighing, make sure that any pan you choose fits under the cover with plenty of clearance! The Lyman® and RCBS® pans have a much taller profile and may not fit. Likewise, if you have an electronic scale that has an integrated (or connects to) an auto-trickling mechanism, you must make certain that any replacement pan doesn’t interfere with the trickling.
Tip #12: How Not to Break the Load Cell in Your Powder Scale
The “Load Cell” is the heart of every electronic scale. Lower priced scales usually use a strain gauge type load cell. Strain gauge load cells in particular, can be easily damaged if handled roughly.
– Never leave a load on a scale for an extended period of time as this can damage the load cell. – Never place more weight on a scale than its uppermost limit. Overloading the scale can damage the load cell. Don’t forget that the scale’s weight limit includes any “tare” weight. For instance, if your scale has a 500 grain maximum capacity and you “tare” the scale (zero) with a powder pan that weighs 100 grains, the remaining capacity is now only 400 grains. Even though the scale reads zero, if you place a 500 grain weight on the scale, you will overload the scale. – Never drop anything on the weighing pan. Always place the load or calibration weight gently onto the scale. Dropping weight on the scale can damage the load cell, even if the weight is well below the scale’s uppermost limit. If you ever do accidentally overload your scale, try recalibrating it. If the damage is slight, you may be able to save the scale.
Tip #13: Read Your Owner’s Manual
The owner’s manual for your scale is full of useful information specific to your scale. It may not be as exciting as a Tom Clancy techno-thriller, but it is worth reading.
A Final Word
These tips will get you a head start on accurate powder weighing and, hopefully, save you a few of the lessons I learned the hard way.
This article courtesy of: UniqueTek, Inc. 574 E. Alamo Drive, Suite 60 Chandler, AZ 85225 Ph: 480-507-0866 Fax: 480-507-0867
As the Reno Journal-Gazette reported, “Frank Adams, executive director of the Nevada Sheriffs and Chiefs Association, said…that the group supports exempting the names of people who hold concealed carry weapons permits from Nevada’s open records law. He said the association will back a bill to do that in the 2011 Legislature.”
“We’re working on making everything in CCW confidential,” Adams explained. “I advise (permit holders) to get hold of your lawmakers and support that.”
This past June, the Nevada Supreme Court ruled, “that while individual applications for permits are confidential, the names of permit holders are public record. The court was responding to a Reno Gazette-Journal request for information about CCW permits related to a story about Republican Gov. Jim Gibbons.”
Journal-Gazette editors have said they would never publish the names of permit holders. Yet there was nothing in the Nevada Supreme Court’s ruling which would prohibit the newspaper or any other publication from doing so.
But even that august body is unlikely to resolve the contentions, since the authors of the original claim, which challenges the feds' authority to regulate guns made, sold and kept within a state, say they need the U.S. Supreme Court to act.
“We've believed all along that the federal district court cannot grant the relief we request,” said Gary Marbut, chief of the Montana Shooting Sports Association, which along with partner the Second Amendment Foundation brought the original lawsuit against the federal government.
“We seek to overturn a half-century of bad precedent. Only the U.S. Supreme Court can do that. In that light the pending dismissal by the district court means little except that we are now free to move to the next step of the process,” he said. Read more
Mr. Ringenberg, a technology consultant, is one of the state’s nearly 300,000 handgun permit holders who have recently seen their rights greatly expanded by a new law — one of the nation’s first — that allows them to carry loaded firearms into bars and restaurants that serve alcohol.
“If someone’s sticking a gun in my face, I’m not relying on their charity to keep me alive,” said Mr. Ringenberg, 30, who said he carries the gun for personal protection when he is not at work.
Gun rights advocates like Mr. Ringenberg may applaud the new law, but many customers, waiters and restaurateurs here are dismayed by the decision. Read more
The 2010 election cycle is already being predicted by most political insiders as a huge win for Republican candidates. If true, it will mean a “lame duck” congressional session following November 2nd, whereby a large number of House members with a D following their name have absolutely nothing to lose. If you don’t think that can have far-reaching ramifications in terms of 2nd Amendment issues, think again.
Democrats are considering cramming as many as 20 pieces of legislation into the lame-duck session they plan to hold after the Nov. 2 election.
The array of bills competing for floor time shows the sense of urgency among Democratic lawmakers to act before the start of the 112th Congress, when Republicans are expected to control more seats in the Senate and House.
If properly motivated, even this slow-moving House has the potential to ram through legislation that the majority of Americans are opposed to. Remember Obamacare? That was pushed through when they believed they were keeping their jobs; imagine what happens when they no longer care.
As the end of the article states: “If Congress returns to Washington the week after the election and works right up until Christmas, it would have six weeks to pass legislation…” From EPA regulations to Chinese currency manipulations, the final days of 2010 could prove to be very turbulent, especially considering recent losses by the Democrats.
For instance, the DISCLOSE Act — one vehemently opposed by NAGR — was recently shot down. Do you think that fact is stopping its supporters? They are just going to use bureaucrats to get what they want, any way they can. Read more
In the story on the link… a driver saw a truck matching the description of one believed used in an abduction. He saw a little girl in the truck and he took action… What would you do? Are you ready to get involved in something like this?
Vihtavuori N350 is a slow pistol powder for medium to large calibers. It is also suitable for shotshells.
Modern reloading powders are divided into three basic types on the basis of their use. These are pistol, shotgun, and rifle powders. But for the beginning reloader, these are but a starting point in selecting the right powder for the desired load.
Reloading powders for pistols are generally of the fast-burning double-base type for use in short-barreled guns. Shotgun powders are also fast burning and double-base, designed to burn completely under low pressures. Rifle powders are generally slower burning to accelerate a rifle bullet down a long barrel with maximum velocity while producing minimum pressures.
In point of fact, many reloading powders for pistol use are quite suitable for shotguns and vice versa. Some slower burning pistol and shotgun powders will also work well for reduced velocity rifle loadings, where a light bullet and light powder charge are used.
Before buying a quantity of powder, it is a good idea to consult one or more reloading guides to see what is offered and what looks to be the best selection for your particular gun or guns. Then, buy a small can to develop your loads. If that powder proves suitable for your uses, it’s a good idea to go ahead and buy larger amounts.
Winchester has replaced metal powder cans with its new plastic packaging, which keeps volatiles in and moisture out of the powder inside.
Storage and Handling of Reloading Powders
Modern powders are almost completely gelatinized, making them less affected by dampness. In fact, a sample of Laflin & Rand (later Hercules, now Alliant) Unique powder was placed in storage under water in 1899 to test its viability. It was last tested in 1996. It will be tested again in this century when it is expected to continue performing as well as when it was made.
As smokeless powders deteriorate, they generate small amounts of nitric acid. Stabilizers are added to these powders to absorb acid byproduct. Most reloading powders have fifty or more years of life before the stabilizers are used up and nitric acid begins to leach out of the nitrocellulose, leaving plain cellulose and reducing the efficiency of the powder. Occasionally powder will deteriorate owing to acid residue that was not properly washed out in the manufacturing process. Such powder will take on an unpleasant acidic smell and a brown dust looking very like rust will appear in the powder.
Powder in this condition will not shoot well, giving poor ignition and low power. It should be disposed of. Metal cans containing powder will sometimes rust on the interior, producing a very similar-appearing dust, but without the characteristic odor. This does not harm the powder and can be removed by dumping the powder on a flat piece of bed sheet, spreading it evenly, and gently blowing off the dust.
The powder should then be placed in another container. An empty plastic powder bottle is good so long as it is clearly marked as to what it is. It is a good idea to mark containers of powder with the date of purchase and then use the oldest first. Opened containers of powder should be checked at least every year for signs of rust or deterioration if they are not being used. Sealed containers should be left sealed until they are to be used. Alcohols and occasionally camphor are added to stabilize burning characteristics. Powder containers should be kept tightly closed to keep these volatile additives from evaporating into the air.
Smokeless powder is quite safe to handle because it is not sensitive to shock. The main caution that must be taken is to keep it from open flame or heat. It will ignite above 400 degrees F. Shelf storage is suitable, preferably on a second floor where temperatures remain most stable. Powder should never be stored in heavy closed metal containers that could act as bombs in case of a fire. Never have more than one container of powder open at a time. If there is a fire this – hopefully – limits it to one can.
IMR powder was formerly DuPont, then later branded IMR, and now has been acquired by Hodgdon.
Smokeless powder is toxic if ingested because the nitroglycerin component causes heart irregularity. British soldiers in WWI chewed smokeless powder from rifle cartridges to cause a brief though severe illness to get off the line, until medical authorities discovered this practice. Children have a tendency to taste things; smokeless powder should not be one of them.
Loading Density
Various combinations of bullets and powder charges can be assembled to achieve the same velocity. Some are going to be more accurate than others. Various manuals will often indicate loads that gave the best accuracy in particular guns. This is usually the best place to start developing a load, although such a combination will not necessarily be the best performer in your gun.
Generally speaking, when selecting a powder there are a few rules of thumb worth following. Larger-capacity rifle cartridges, with heavy bullets, generally perform best with slow-burning powders. For best accuracy, a powder charge that fills the case with little or no air space tends to give better accuracy than a small charge that can shift position in the case. Shooters using reduced loads, particularly in rifles, get better results by tipping the barrel skyward before each shot to position the powder to the rear of the case.
Approach Compressed loads with extreme caution.
This can also be achieved by using wads or wads plus fillers to fill up the space, but the results are usually not as good. A filler wad should never be placed over the powder with an air space between it and the bullet. The space must be filled entirely. If there is a space, the wad will come slamming against the base of the bullet with enough force to make a bulged ring in the case and often in the chamber of the gun!
Compressed Loads
Never compress powder in a cartridge case unless such a load is recommended in a reloading manual. Compressed loads should never be more than 10 percent above the case capacity. A compression of more than this often leads to lower than desired velocities. If the compression is excessive it can actually bulge the case or cause the case to stretch in the loading process, resulting in a cartridge that is oversize or too long and will jam the gun.
This article is an excerpt from ABCs of Reloading, 8th Edition.
A clean-burning powder with applications for 12-, 20- and 28-gauge target and field loads, IMR’s SR 7625 is also viable for handgun loads.
One hears about several types of shotshell pressure, but for handloading there is only one pressure that you truly need to understand, service pressure.
SAAMI has organized US gun manufacturers to adhere to a set of standards for service pressure, and all modern models of guns made in the US are proofed or tested to make sure they withstand these pressures.
Service pressure is predicated on the diameter of the bore (its gauge) and the length of the chamber (in inches). It is understood that the standard gives you a tiny bit of leeway to make a mistake in handloading. If you exceed the service pressure with a load delivering 10 or even 100 fps greater than load data suggests is correct, your load will probably perform just fine and your gun will be safe. For your own sake though, you should consider the service pressure to be an inflexible ceiling.
By saying that service pressure gives you some leeway, I mean that it is purposefully fudged. SAAMI does not discuss this “fudge factor” in public, but it is perhaps as little as 10- to as much as 25-percent above the advertised service pressure. Still, this number is much lower than what is called “proof pressure.”
Alliant’s Herco is a popular and versatile shotshell reloading powder, along with Green Dot and Red Dot.
Proofing is an electro-mechanical process of testing barrels to be sure that they will withstand normal shooting for hunting or competition. It involves firing super-hot, high-pressure shells (heavy shot and slow-burning powders) and then measuring their effects in a barrel. Normally, manufacturers test shotguns with one or two proof rounds and then carefully examine the barrels for damage. You may be certain that any modern barrel has been carefully proofed to keep you safe, keep your pellets in the vicinity of the target and minimize the possibility that any shooter will be injured.
After proofing, barrels are customarily stamped with a particular indentation that indicates they have been tested. Proof stamps are the kind of minutiae that fascinates students of shotgunning, in part because the stamps of foreign “proof houses” are interesting for their variety and intrinsic history. Americans, who are typically more casual with their sense of tradition, commonly neglect such attention to detail preferring instead to concentrate on the shooting characteristics of their guns and loads as tools rather than heirlooms, means to an end rather than the end in itself.
Chances are that you will never see a shell marked for proofing, but if you do, it will bear a conspicuous label (“Danger – High Pressure”) and may, in addition, be clearly marked as a proof load. If you do see such a shell, do NOT attempt to fire it through your personal gun. A proof load generates pressures far in excess of the accepted service pressure.
If you are shooting a 12-gauge Remington 1100 chambered for 2-3/4-inch shells, the maximum SAAMI service pressure standard is 11,500 psi. The SAAMI proof pressure for this popular gas gun on the other hand is achieved with a load of 1-1/2-ounces of shot and measures between 19,000 psi and 20,500 psi, practically twice the service pressure. Not only would repeated firing of that level of pressure damage your gun, but its recoil would probably knock you off your feet.
If your reloading press breaks, you can build loads by hand … with the right measuring devices, that is. A 1-1/8-ounce load of #8s will be about 460 pellets. You can count those. You can also use hand dippers to check the throw of your loads.
SOME SHOTSHELL PRESSURE PROBLEMS
Loss of pressure during the burning cycle diminishes any chance of a complete and efficient powder burn. The result is shot pellets without the energy or velocity you normally expect and a greater build-up of crud in your barrel.
A small interruption could be a collapsed gas seal, for example. Inconsistent pressures and velocities are the clues that your load components may be breaking down. Irregularities in the pressure curve, perhaps caused by a component shift, reduce the effectiveness of the propellant burn because compression momentarily slackens.
These unpredictable component shifts have several identifiable origins: weak cushion sections in wads, weak seals or worn-out hulls with poor crimps.
Many substandard loads sound fine when they are fired, but compared to a more perfect load, actually produce inferior velocity and energy delivery. If your load experiences a loss of pressure, even a minute loss, pellets may be getting out there, but not with the speed and energy you expect.
It may surprise you to learn that shotshells are designed to operate at the low end of the powder-pressure spectrum. All powders, particularly those that burn slowly, are sensitive to compression and with improper or leaky containment, burning will inevitably be less than complete. It is also true that a lighter than average load may reduce your chamber pressure to a point where the proper burning cycle cannot be concluded.
What do you do when you pull the trigger on a reload and the gun seems to fire, but without its customary authoritative kick? You may have an obstruction in the barrel caused by a faulty load. Stop immediately and, with the barrel pointed downrange, perform a visual inspection. It is possible that the wad has lodged inside. If you fire another round behind and into it, the resulting traffic jam in the bore can cause a permanently ruptured barrel and could hurt you and those around you.
Cold weather can be a problem for a slow burning powder in a hunting load and, depending on the temperature, will affect your hotter-burning target loads as well.
FIRE IN THE HOLE! So, what happens when you pull the trigger? The powder is ignited. It begins combining furiously with its own oxygen to create an ever-expanding column of ultra-hot gas, but at a constant pressure (for maximum pellet velocity), and that column takes up an increasing volume of space. This is what pushes the shot out toward the flying pigeon. When the shotcup leaves the barrel, air resistance causes it to fall away within about 10 yards, and the speeding shot rushes on toward its intended target, although its velocity begins to diminish immediately upon exiting the barrel.
The column of hot gas is engineered to balance the burning powder with the expanding volume. Hence, powders are grouped by “burn rates.” If all of the powder burns before the shot passes the forcing cone, the shot may begin slowing down inside the barrel and that, obviously, is not going to give you the perfect solution to any shooting problem. Here are the generally accepted guidelines, but remember that engineers develop loads for practically every possible combination and circumstance, so these are only “rules of thumb”:
Lightweight loads with moderate velocity, typically target and small game loads, fall into a faster burning powder category. (Example: Introduced in 1992, Hodgdon’s Clays “produces soft, smooth recoil, ultra clean burning, mild muzzle report and excellent patterns.”)
Heavier hunting loads, which typically have greater velocities, predominantly use slow-burning powders. (Example: Introduced 85 years ago, Alliant’s Herco is a “proven powder for heavy shotshell loads.”)
Load your 12-gauge with Hodgdon’s Clays and Titewad, especially for target and light field reloads. Clays and Titewad are also rated for competition pistol reloads in the 45 ACP and 38 Special.
Powder burn rates are important. Many hunters endure the foulest, coldest weather to hunt deer or waterfowl, and our Canadian cousins revel in organizing sporting clays events when orange birds show up remarkably well against mounds of snow and ice. With an already slow-burning powder, low temperatures can cause a problem on a frigid morning in a Maryland duck blind.
We know that cold retards ignition and causes powder to burn slower. To optimize your shotgun’s performance in these conditions, you need specially constructed loads perhaps upgrading to a medium burn rate powder. You may also want to consider using heavier loads and new hulls for stronger crimps. Hot primers are more likely to cause good powder ignition in cold weather because they were developed for just such a situation.
This is precisely why handloading is such a virtuous pastime for shotgunners. It allows us to craft loads for conditions, and to laugh at our over-the-counter buying cousins. Different recipes will give you different results and you can load differently for hot days than for cold days. (To be honest, even experienced shotgunners usually cannot perceive any difference in their load performance as temperature changes, but they are aware that there is a difference.).
Although they do for the most part list velocities for over-the-counter shells, ammunition companies do not publish pressures for their commercial loads in either their catalogs or on their Internet sites. Ammo manufacturers are often stingy about revealing the amount of powder in loads as well, preferring simply to list that number (that number being the relatively archaic “drams equivalent”) as “max.” Of course, there may be a good reason for this.
This article is an excerpt from Reloading for Shotgunners, 5th Edition. Click here to learn more or get your copy.
I just finished the annual firearms inventory at Casa de la Michalowski and the results are disturbing. I have more guns than I need, but fewer than I want. It is this kind of imbalance that can cause panic buying, impulse shopping and generally upset the delicate monetary balance required to pay all the bills, buy all the ammo and enjoy time at the range. Something must be done.
On another note, recent scenario-based training at the Sheriff's Department left me on both sides of what our firearms instructor called a $h&t sandwich. First, as a bad guy, I got to hide inside a shed that none on the team thought to clear as they moved to assist a “downed officer.” From my stealthy hide I was able to put three Force-on-Force rounds into the back of the incident commander before he realized things had gone south. Thus was his pain penalty for failing to look inside a door.
Minutes later I was the IC on a “hostage” situation that went from bad to worse. As the aggressor released her hostage the victim appeared to follow my commands as I directed him to me and my safe cover. Without provocation he produced a pistol and started throwing shots my way. I was caught alongside a wall with no cover between me and the shooter, all I could do was get small and keep firing.
There is nothing better than SBT and painful pellets to remind you how quickly things can happen. If you get the chance to participate, even if you have to pay for it, get involved in some force-on-force training.
Even though the exact same bill, sponsored by Chuck Schumer (D-NY), had been defeated just two months ago and was unlikely to pass, anti-gun Majority Leader Harry Reid (NV) brought it up for another vote to “stir up” his left-wing base.
Instead of protecting the most important type of speech protected by the First Amendment — political speech — with this bill Congress attempted to force groups like GOA to “disclose” the names of donors in certain political advertisements.
Since Gun Owners of America will never disclose its membership lists to the federal government, it could be prohibited from running radio or TV ads exposing a federal candidate's voting record in the weeks leading up to an election. Read more
Looking to go armed, but are stuck in the weeds as to what to arm yourself with? Here are 20 excellent concealed carry gun options that will keep you on the defensive.
Inside this issue:
